“Clothes….

Speak many languages….

And have to be seen on the outside….

As well as felt on the inside”

_Miyake

ISSEY MIYAKEas a fashion designer

By:

AMLANJYOTI BORA

NIFT New Delhi

Issey Miyake is the most well-known Japanese designer in the world, having successfully

merged East and West in his designs. Born inmerged East and West in his designs. Born inHiroshima, Japan on 22 April 1938.

EDUCATION & CAREER…

• He studied at the Tama Art University in Tokyo during which time he assembled his first fashion collection, which he named "The Poem of Material and Stone"

• In 1964 he graduated from the University of Tokyo.

• In 1965 he moved to Paris to study design at the Chambre Syndicale de la • In 1965 he moved to Paris to study design at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.

• In 1966 he left to work as an assistant designer at Guy Laroche. He also worked in the studio of another great couturier Hubert de Givenchy.

• In 1970 Miyake returned to Tokyo to make his ideas concrete.

• In 1971 he founded the Issey Miyake Design Studio in Tokyo. He also opened a boutique at Bloomingdales in New York.

Once home, he searched for fabrics & shapes that would provide a Japanese equivalent. What he came up with not only assured him a place as a designer of

international stature, it launched Tokyo as a new fashion capital, one that found its

equivalentinternational stature, it launched Tokyo as a new fashion capital, one that found its inspiration not in New York or Paris, but in Himself.

During the 70's while still based in Tokyo, Miyake began to show his collections twice a year in Paris and they rapidly became fashion shows which no fashion addict could afford to miss.

• In 1976 he presented 12 black girls from America, striking black Amazonsshowing his designs in Osaka which were seen by 15,000.people.In 1976 he presented 12 black girls from America, striking black Amazonsshowing his designs in Osaka which were seen by 15,000.people.

• In 1977 he mounted "Fly with Issey Miyake" in Tokyo which was seen by 22,000 people.

In 1995, Issey Miyake has drawn POCOHONTAS the red Indian heroine of the Disney cartoon film.

COLLECTIONSCOLLECTIONS

PLEATS PLEASE…

'Pleats' was introduced into ISSEY MIYAKE in 1989, and has been developed every season thereafter. By 1993, it was ready to be launched as a complete and stand-alone brand and appeared as PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE for the Spring-Summer collection.

(In this technique the garments are cut and sewn first, then sandwiched between layers of paper and fed into a heat press, where they are pleated. The fabric's 'memory' holds the pleats and when the garments are liberated from their paper cocoon, they are ready-to wear.)

He did the costume for Ballett Frankfurt with pleats in a piece named ‘The Loss of Small Detail’ of William Forsythe and also work on ballet ‘Garden in the setting’.

“People are waiting for something

that is fun which they feel that

we can work together.”

_Miyake

The concept quoted above (in Simon 1999) was to become the foundation of all of Miyake’s later work- Particularly his second major series,

The A-POC Range.

In 1998, Miyake embarked upon a new project called A POC (A Piece of Cloth) with Dai Fujiwara and a team of young designers.

A-POC, is an industrial weaving machine programmed by a computer that creates continuous tubes of fabric within which lie both shape and pattern. The customers can cut exactly to the length they want.cut exactly to the length they want.

The concept is a revolutionary way of making clothes, accessories or even lately furniture.

A-POC process reduces any leftover fabric that would have been eventually garbage that filling up our landfills. Also it lets the costumer to have a role in the final design of the final outcome.

• A-POC was awarded the Good Design Grand Prize of Good Design Award in 2000 by the Japan Industrial Promotion Organization.

• A-POC was selected to be included in the permanent Collection of the Museum of Modern Art's Architecture and Design Department, New York.

Miyake uses the traditional techniques of dyeing, draping, pleating, wrapping & overlay consistently in his work. This reinstates the ancient art forms of shibori or tie-dye, and origami, or paper folding into contemporary dress.overlay consistently in his work. This reinstates the ancient art forms of shibori or tie-dye, and origami, or paper folding into contemporary dress.

Issey Miyake and his design group, the Reality Lab, have created a line of eco-conscious "Origami clothing" using recycled PET fabric.

Each garment is made from a single piece of fabric, which is folded flat into one of ten basic collapsible patterns. The sharp creases in the fabric are made flexible but ten basic collapsible patterns. The sharp creases in the fabric are made flexible but permanent, so that as you open the garment a multifaceted 3D form emerges.

This shape is made customizable by the wearer.

ARTISTIC COLLABORATIONSARTISTIC COLLABORATIONS

“I also started working with photographers & artists,

and film makers & graphic designer

-Collaborating with them felt like a more natural way for me to work,

&&

one I knew would ultimately lead to my work being seen by the world.”

_Miyake

Irving Penn and Issey Miyake: visual dialogue

American photographer Irving Penn and japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake had a deep creative understanding of each other's work.American photographer Irving Penn and japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake had a deep creative understanding of each other's work.

The result of the cross-cultural collaboration is showcased in Irving Penn and Issey Miyake: visual dialogue',

The artists first met in 1983 while Penn was doing an editorial shoot for American vogue featuring Miyake’s clothing. Each found a unique perspective in the other's work.

The result was a 13 year long collaboration which spanned from 1987 to 1999. Miyake saw his designs in a new way through Penn's photographs. The images communicated the essence of the collection, through the photographer's lens, the texture, shapes and forms went beyond clothing and instead transformed into art.communicated the essence of the collection, through the photographer's lens, the texture, shapes and forms went beyond clothing and instead transformed into art.

This exhibition features the collaborative work of Irving Penn and Issey Miyake put together under the direction of Miyake's trusted colleague, Midori Kitamura, who assisted in their collaborative process throughout. Its aim is to provide a unique window on this unusual creative collaboration, or "visual dialogue"; and an opportunity to reflect on the power of imagination.

PHILOSOPHY…

Issey Miyake does not want to be called an artist. Nor does he want to be labeled a ‘Japanese Fashion Designer’. However from a Western point of view, he is both.

He argues that stereotypical boundaries limit the possible concepts of design.He argues that stereotypical boundaries limit the possible concepts of design.

By challenging convention an aesthetics stance, he states, “I believe in questioning.”

He has promoted an integral liaison between the fine arts, photography, the applied arts & fashion and shown the world the true meaning of collaborative effort.

Miyake has been dubbed “The Picasso of Fashion”, presumably in

relation to the diversity of his work, his propensity for discoveries new artistic

Miyake has been dubbed “The Picasso of Fashion”, presumably in

relation to the diversity of his work, his propensity for discoveries new artistic methodologies and his challenging of traditional concepts of design.

For over forty years, Miyake has reinvented form, redefined the boundaries of clothing in both functional & aesthetic contexts, & rejuvenated new modern methods of clothing production.

B• http://www.dezeen.com/2010/10/05/132-5-by-issey-miyake/

• http://www.pleatfarm.com/2010/10/06/origami-inspired-issey-miyake-132-5/

• http://www.isseymiyake.com

• http://trilliumstudios.com/issey-miyake-a-poc/

• http://www.niwdenapolis.com/2008/01/poc-piece-of-clothing-by-issey-miyake.html

• http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f60/issey-miyake-poc-collections-35207.html

• http://fashion.infomat.com/issey-miyake-designer.html

http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/issey-miyake/

BIBLIOGRAPHY

http://fashion.infomat.com/issey-miyake-designer.html

• http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/issey-miyake/

• http://edelscope.com/2012/06/21/132-5-issey-miyake-autumnwinter-2012-origami-tribute-to-the-fashion-invention/

• http://www.designboom.com/design/irving-penn-and-issey-miyake-visual-dialogue/

• BOOKS:

• ‘JAPANESE FASHION DESIGNERS’ by Bony English

• ‘Couture: The Great Fashion Designers’ by Milbank, C.R.

• Video reference: http://mds.isseymiyake.com/mds/en/collection/

Thank You !!!