ITCHY FEETMAGAZINE IS

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GUATEMALAN LAKELANDSKIING IN KASHMIRMUCK DIVING IN INDONESIATANZANIAN EXPERIENCE

pplluuss::PatagoniaAustralia www.itchyfeetmagazine.com

Welcome to the latest issue of Itchy FeetMagazine, which is, as ever, packed full ofinspirational travel tales from our fellowtravellers and subscribers. In this issue wehear about skiing in India’s remote region ofKahmir, muck diving in Indonesia, and fly-fishing in Tasmania; something for everyoneon the activity front.We also visit beautifulregions of Guatemala, Patagonia andTanzania.

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Our front cover photo this month wastaken in Morocco by Greg Davis from theUSA. www.gregdavisphotohgraphy.com

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“Certainly, travel is more than theseeing of sights; it is a change thatgoes on, deep and permanemt, in

the ideas of living.”Miriam Beardn

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3NewsResponsible TourismAwards, underwatersculptures, and the roundup of forthcoming events.

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issue#18

Muck Diving inIndonesiaSzilvia Gogh tries an unusualform of scuba diving

Cruisin’PatagoniaEllen Moriarty takes a triparound Cape Horn.

Skiing with theGodsNeil MacLean checks out theslopes in Kashmir

At Lake AtitlanNicola Perides exploresGuatemala’s lakes andmountains

The Mountain ofGodCam Fergus climbs one ofTanzania’s more off thebeaten track peaks

An Angler’sParadise - almostJoshua Handler goes fly-fishing in the Tasmanianhighlands

ReviewsA selection of book andrestaurant reviews

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Contents:

ItchynewsEco-News:VIRGIN HOLIDAYS RESPONSIBLE TOURISMAWARDS 2008

Nominations for our Virgin Holidays Responsible TourismAwards 2008 are now open.You can vote online atwww.responsibletourismawards.com The awards are thelargest awards of their kind in the world and have been goingfor four years.The central tenet of the Awards is that all typesof tourism – from niche to mainstream – can and should beoperated in a way that respects and benefits destinations andlocal people.The Awards are different from others in thatwinners are nominated by tourists. One of the foundingprinciples of the Awards is always to seek out new responsibletourism ventures that deserve to be celebrated andnominations are fundamental to this process. In 2007 over 1700nominations were made and they’re calling on the public’sresponsible travel know-how once again to find the best of thebest in 2008. (below: last year’s overall winner, the New Forest)

What’s on where?Some of the best global festivals and events coming up...

Netherlands: Orange Festival (Queen’s Day) for lovers ofbeer and all things orange in Amsterdam. 30 April

Austria: Vienna Festival music, dance & theatre. 1 May-30June

Czech Republic: Prague Spring International Music FestivalOne of Europe’s best music festivals. 12 May - 3 June

Russia: Stars of the White Nights Festival Opera and ballet andlong summer nights in St Petersburg. 18 May - 17 July

England: Chelsea Flower Show, London The country's bestflowers and gardens on display. 20-24 May

Mexico: Cinco de Mayo In Puebla, colourful parades and mockbattles staged. 5 May

China: Bun Festival In Hong Kong, this event features hugeedible buns and largeparades. 12 May

England: Coopers HillCheese Rolling MadEnglishmen chase hugerounds of cheese down asteep hill in Brocworth,Gloucestershire, in thistraditional event. 31 May

USA: Red Earth NativeAmerican Cultural FestivalA huge and popularcultural celebration inOklahoma City. 6-8 June

Prague: U Zlateho Jelena (The Golden Stag)A charming hotel in a historic converted burhger house (datingfrom 1366) The Golden Stag is just a stone’s throw fromPrague’s old town square; a fantastic location.The sacrifice yousometimes pay for being in the heart of the old town is havingto put up with some noise, sometimes well into the night.Nonetheless everything else about this place offers great valuefor money: 19 tasteful rooms with antique furniture andspacious bathrooms, shady courtyards, a good breakfast andfreindly staff. It would be a shame to visit Prague and miss outon staying in such a historic location. For more info visitwww.hotel-u-zlateho-jelena.cz Louise Alexander

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Uniqueplaces to stay

Underwater ArtNew sculpture installation in CanterburyUnderwater sculptures entitled Alluvia by artist Jason deCairesTaylor have been placed along the River Stour. Set in thehistoric city of Canterbury, Alluvia is an installation consistingof two female figures, cast in cement and recycled glass resin.Positioned within sight of the Westgate Bridge and its adjoininggardens, the underwater sculptures lie along the river flow,submerged and fixed to the bed of the river Stour.At night theworks are internally illuminated. The title Alluvia relates to thealluvial deposits of sand left by the rise and fall of the riverswater levels.The two contrasting and individual figures aim tohighlight and document the passage of time. As the surfacetension and volume of water changes through the seasons, andthe effects of light alter through the day, so what is seen of thesculptures will change. www.underwatersculpture.comPolly Fryer

Nestled in the temperate mountainousregion of the Western highlands, LakeAtitlan is a haven for locals and touristsalike. Being only a two and half hour drivefrom both Guatemala’s capital, GuatemalaCity, and popular colonial town of Antigua,makes Lake Atitlan a very accessibledestination.The winning combination ofbeing 15 degrees above the Equator and1560 metres above sea level makes it theideal climate: not too hot and never toocold! The sun shines throughout the year,even during the rainy season.

Panajachel is the first stop for most, if notall, buses arriving from Guatemala City andAntigua. It is definitely a place to explorefor a day or so, before venturing off to themany Indian villages that are scatteredaround the lake.

Panajachel or ‘Pana’ as most locals call it,provides stunning views of the threevolcanoes that surround the beautiful lakeitself:Toliman,Atitlan and San Pedro.

Arrive at dawn and witness the mist clearto reveal the first glimpse of the blue-greendeep waters, the lush banks and thefishermen setting out for the day in oldwooden canoes.The faint smell of pinedrifts over and for now, this is the mostpeaceful place on earth.

During the day Pana becomes a bustlingtown with many hotels, markets, cafes andbars.There is always much to see in this

colourful place, including the original façadeof the old church.This was used to convertIndians to the Catholic faith during theperiod of the Spanish conquest.

Pana’s busy market street (Calle Sentader)where you find arguably the best souvenirsin Guatemala, is the main strip andgenerally all bars and restaurants are to befound here.

A tip for a good hostel is the MarioRooms; good clean rooms, hammock linedbalconies and a roof terrace to enjoy themost fabulous views. Do make sure youleave time to sample the holiday feelnightlife and the local cuisine! In a countrywhere food is generally bland, here you canfind a real treat.

Grab a lakeside breakfast, where the localswill rustle you up something tasty generallyproduced in the region and leave early forone of the many villages that border thelake.Whatever your taste, there is a villageto suit! From San Pedro’s bohemianambience to the quiet retreats of San

Marcos.All made famous by their femaleweavers and traditional clothing.

First stop San Pedro, reached by a 40minute water taxi across the lake. SanPedro is by far the backerpacker‘s favouritewith its many hostels, bars and activities.Here, you can rent kayaks, snorkel, horseride and trek to the next village - theopportunities are endless.The village itself

is very hilly so be ready to hike up anddown to get anywhere. However, thespectacular panorama from the top is trulybreathtaking.The sky and lake are simplyseparated by an abundance of green, thetrees seem to go on forever and thestillness of the water creates an aura oftrue tranquillity.

Again, the cuisine is extraordinarily good -take your pick from many internationaldishes.Thai comes highly recommended.Make sure your camera is always poised asthis happy little village always gives thevisitor something to snap. From kidssplashing in and out of the lake to oldfriends gathering for afternoon gossips. 4

AAtt LLaakkee AAttiittllaann

NNiiccoollaa PPeerriiddeess ttaakkeess aa llaakkee aanndd mmoouunnttaaiinnss ttoouurr ooff GGuuaatteemmaallaa

“ aarrrriivvee aatt ddaawwnn aanndd wwiittnneessss tthhee mmiisstt cclleeaarr ttoo

rreevveeaall tthhee ffiirrsstt gglliimmppssee ooff tthhee bblluuee--ggrreeeenn wwaatteerrss,,

tthhee lluusshh bbaannkkss aanndd tthhee ffiisshheerrmmeenn ”

At night the village certainly comes to life,with many bars and restaurants to choosefrom.You’ll never be far away from a coldbeer. It has that bohemian feel, with manygringos, bongos, tie dye outfits and a typicalchilled out atmosphere. Definitely not aplace to be missed.

After three or four days of partying, whynot pop over the pond to the uber chilledout San Marcos. It is reached by either atwo hour hike from San Pedro or catch theboat for a 40 minute ride. Beware though,try and avoid arriving on Sundays aseverything will be either full or closed.

San Marcos’s banana, mango and avocadotree-lined shores are the perfect stage forthis new age, yoga loving village.Walk awayfrom the jetty in any direction and you willbe greeted by fir fringed paths leadingthrough to many spas and retreats offeringmassages of all kinds: yoga, pilates and anyother relaxation therapy you couldimagine.This village has a quiet, tranquil,calm atmosphere, there is no nightlife. SanMarcos is more of a holiday from a holiday.Swim for hours off one the jetties in theclear cool waters of the lake, climb up intothe village to meet the locals, sample the

delights of the organic bakery and healingcentre, and generally relax. Lie back andadmire the mesmerising sights of thewildlife, the ever-changing shades of greenthe trees offer and the calmness andserenity that the sound of the lake createswhile gently stroking the shore. By nightfall, get truly lost in the dark sky as therewill be more stars then your dreams couldever envisage! On a clear day it is possibleto catch a glimpse of Volcano Acatenanga’sgrey 3675 metre peak which lies 50 km tothe east.This is San Marcos. Leave feelingmore alive then ever and ready for yournext adventure. Catch the boat back toPanajachel, time for a spot of shopping thencatch the 4pm bus back through theamazing diverse scenery that is Guatemala.

Be sure to give Lake Atitlan the once overand you may, like many, end up staying a lifetime...

© Nicola Perides, UK

“ cclliimmbb uupp iinnttoo tthhee vviillllaaggee ttoo mmeeeett tthhee llooccaallss,, ssaammppllee tthhee ddeelliigghhttss ooff tthhee oorrggaanniicc bbaakkeerryy aanndd hheeaalliinngg cceennttrree,, aanndd ggeenneerraallllyy rreellaaxx ”

Backcountry skiing in perfect powder is thedream of most avid skiers, no matter thelevel of ability. It would be fair to assumethat as a resident of India skiing may not bethe first thought for a long weekendgetaway.A big mistake to make! If horizonsare allowed to stretch beyond the GoldenTriangle of Delhi, Jaipur and Agra or thebeaches of Kerala and Goa then they wouldcertainly encompass the idyllicmountainous region of the KashmiriHimalayas.

Kashmir has a reputation of violence andmilitancy owing to the territorial wars thathave been fought over the years betweenPakistan and India.The Indian regions ofKashmir are heavily protected by thousandsof troops stationed in the area to act as a

deterrent against a Pakistani claim on theregion and to suppress the local Hevz-I-Mujahadeen militants.Tourists are not atarget of any attacks by the militants andthe chances of being involved in anycrossfire are extremely low indeed.

Ignoring the travel warnings provided byvarious Foreign Offices and my veryprotective local colleagues I decided that

this haven of off-piste skiing was worth therisk of a flight to the fortified SrinagarAirport and a drive along the heavilyguarded Srinagar – Tanmarg highway. Ichose one of the budget airlines from Delhi(Air Deccan) and opted for pre-paid taxidriver at the airport – it added to theadventure.

As soon as I left Srinagar and passedthrough the small villages and towns myheart lifted and I knew I had made the rightdecision.The journey is incomparable withany others in India.The conditions aretough and the locals have had to adapt tothe extreme weather, international conflictand constant militant action against thepermanently stationed Indian Army – butthey still managed to wave and smile at the

bewildered tourist. As the hired jeepclimbed from the valley floor the brutalrural environment was replaced by aglistening winter wonderland.

I had booked into one of the high endhotels in the area, Hotel Pine Palace. It hadall the facilities that are needed after a hardday’s skiing on the mountain (hot shower,good food and a bar) although it could

never be described as luxurious.Nonetheless, it boasts ski-in ski-out slopeaccess and that sold it for me!

I had not planned to ski on my first day; theresort lies at over 2700m and someacclimatisation is advised, but the weatherwas so perfect and the snow so invitingthat as soon as I was checked in Iunpacked my ski gear and headed straightfor the Kongdoor gondola ski station (1ststage).This station provides relatively easyslopes for beginner / intermediate skiersand some beautiful runs through the treesfor the more advanced. I had some fantasticdescents and ended the day with aspectacular high speed fall on the groomedtrack. I did not break anything (equipmentor bones) but decided to call it a day and

relax back at the hotel.

The real action started on the second day.The weather was very overcast and thesnow was falling heavily, but I decided totravel the two gondolas to the top stationon Mt Apherwat (4200m). Once reachingthe summit and surveying the surroundingsI decided to take a courage pill and throwmyself from the top of the mountain in

“As the hired jeep climbed from the valley floor the brutal ruralenvironment was replaced by a glistening winter wonderland ”

6

Skiing with the Gods

Neil MacLean discovers the pistes of the Kashmiri Himalayas

an attempt to gracefully ski down.Thisavalanche prone, steep sided andungroomed mountain is billed as theultimate destination for expert skiers inthe Northern Hemisphere. I am no expertbut I did not want to miss the chance of alifetime.The mountain and the snow didnot disappoint.The snow was completelyperfect and the steep, fast slopes pushedme beyond the perceived limits of my

abilities. It was a rush like no other. Onarrival at the Kongdoor station theweather had worsened and the gondolaoperators had decided, for the safety of theskiers and boarders, that trips to thesummit should be halted for the day.Therewas still plenty of mountain to explorefrom the mid station.

The gondolas have a reputation for beingas unreliable as the crew who operatethem although I never had a badexperience (apart from never being able toobtain change at the ticket offices!). Daytickets can be purchased in the morningsbut are generally not good value as thegondolas can stop operating at any time(mechanical failure, adverse weatherconditions, or just when the operatorshave had enough for the day).

The last day of my skiing did notdisappoint.The conditions were once againperfect with a fresh dump of powder andpristine blue skies.At the top of Mt.Apherwat there was no wind and hardlyany crowds. Perfect conditions for anotherperfect day.

For expert skiers there are acres of terrainto explore that were unfortunately beyondmy ability and too dangerous to attemptdue to my lack of appropriate avalancheequipment. I certainly plan to return toGulmarg and push myself to the limits oncemore.

This trip was not only the highlight of mytwo years in India but it also exceeded thequality of any of the ski trips I have made ineither Europe or North America.

My personal advice: ignore the travelwarnings and hype – and head to the most

beautiful ski resort that you can imagine:Gulmarg, Kashmir.

© Neil MacLean

Basic Info:Gulmarg lies 57km by road from Srinagar.A resort was founded in the 1920s by thecolonial British.Plenty of hotels are available catering fortourist needs and a range of budgets.They all serve up a selection of Kashmiriand Continental food.Ski equipment can be hired from one ofthe government shops or the privateKashmir Alpine Ski shop.The lower slopes for beginners areserviced by button lifts and a T-Bar.The gondola terrain is divided into twosections.The first rises 450m, to analtitude of 3300m, from the village andprovides runs of around 2.5km (mainlyoff-piste)The second climbs to an altitude of over4000m and provides a vertical descent ofover 1000m back into the village (all off-piste from the top). Skiing in a south-east

direction on the avalanche prone slopesoffers 1700m of vertical off-piste action.

Getting there:Daily flights are available from Delhidomestic airport. Pre-paid cabs areavailable from the airport.

When to go:Best time to visit for skiing is betweenDecember and mid March.It is best to check local conditions andseek advice before travelling to Kashmir.

Useful Websites:www.gulmarg.orgwww.skihimalaya.comwww.fco.gov.uk

Currency: Indian rupee

Capital: New Delhi

Timezone: GMT + 5.5

footprints:

“The gondolas have a reputation for being as unreliable as thecrew who operate them (although I never had a bad experience!) ”

Muck diving is not a derogatory termdescribing a type of adventure one wouldexperience in filthy, cold, dark waters, but itis rather an exciting emerging warm waterdive trend that many get excited about,especially photographers. I have been divingfor 18 years, logged close to 5000 dives,travelled around the world a few times, butonly recently heard about muck diving. It ishard to define what muck diving really isabout, but those who tried it, becameaddicted to the rather unusual type ofscuba experience.

After spending a week diving the wealthyand diverse coral reefs of Wakatobi Islandearly November 2007, I had an opportunityto continue my travels through Asia andvisit a friend who runs a dive center onLembeh Island. Even though Lembeh Island’slocation is not far from Wakatobi, we (myhusband accompanied me) had to return toBali first in order to catch a flight troughUjung Pandang to Manado.

Flying with Garuda Indonesia is quite anexperience on its own.At the check in deskall travelers can see the warning:“Don’t putvaluable items into your check-in luggage!”The small transfer airport in Balipapa reallygave me a reality check.There were nobars, no food courts, and the smokingroom’s door was wide open, so the smokerman (woman don’t smoke) would get freshair.To our remedy, we discovered a footmassage place where we could relax: half-

an-hour for five dollars.

Finally, we arrived to Manado, where wewere greeted by a guy from the resort.Heading to the Western part of NorthSulawesi, we drove trough well kept,blossoming villages.To my surprise, we sawgreat number of catholic churches;Indonesia is both a Muslim and a Christiancountry.After a short boat ride from themainland, Les Williams, the resort manager,welcomed us. He stood at the last step onthe stairs, and appeared from the shadowon that misty night. He personally greets

every guests regardless what time theyarrive. Just like in Fantasy Island.

Lembeh Resort has 14 cottages, all of whichwere built on the cliffs, overlooking thepool, the dive center and the Strait.Viewingthe sunrises and sunsets from thecomfortable armchairs on the spaciousverandas never gets boring. At dinner wereunited with my friend, Johan, whom I usedto work with many years ago in Thailand asdive instructors. Johan and his girlfriend Katare the managers of the dive center.Whilesharing our meal they briefed me about thedives for the next day.

I was super excited to try something new. Ilooked forward to muck diving like a kidlooks forward opening Christmas presents.At last the sun woke up and I was anxiousto board the boat and finally get wet. Afterdescending into Lembeh Strait, my first

impression was,“this is like a garbage dump.What am I going to do here for 60minutes?” The next thing I knew, the 60minutes were up and I saw the mostbizarre, unusual critters I have ever seenand was dying to get back into the water tofind more.

The muck is the perfect habitat for unusual,exotic and juvenile organisms that maketheir homes in the sediment and trash atthe bottom of the ocean. Creatures hidingin the muck are so interesting and differentfrom the usual tropical marine life. I

pictured a nutty professor pouring somepotion into the water creating these bizarrelooking animals that even the mostimaginative fiction writers could not havemade up. Odd and beautiful critters werepointed-out for me by the enthusiastic divemasters.The local dive guides knew whereeverybody lived underwater and wereproud to show one thing after another.We encountered seven different types offrog fish. My favorites were the hairyfrogfish, and the one that looked like it wasthe offspring of a frog and a clownfish.

The colours of the nudibranchs we saw areindescribable. It was just too great of avariety to know where to begin. I probablyhave seen every possible color combinationof purple, orange, blue, black, yellow, andpink… There were bigger ones and smallerones, faster and slower, braver and shyer.

Szilvia Gogh tries an unusual scuba experience in Lembeh Strait

Muck diving in Indonesia

10

“ The calm and shallow waters offered amazingopportunities to take pictures of little creatures likeshrimps and the hairy orangutan crab ”

I found myself admiring rare species ofoctopi for long periods of time -- the mostimpressive of our dives. Octopi I cameacross before were very shy, hiding behindrocks or in holes. Our dive masters, inLembeh, found and lured-out the mimicoctopus, the coconut octopus, and thewanderpus providing countlessopportunities to photograph them fromup-close.

The calm and shallow waters offeredamazing opportunities to take pictures oflittle creatures like shrimps and the hairyorangutan crab. Muck diving in LembehStrait is perhaps the best place on theplanet for macro photography. Peculiarcritters included the scary looking devilfish,the magical looking dragon mistress, thefairy tale pegasus seamoth, the brightscorpion leaf fish, the vibrating electricshell, the ornate ghost pipefish, the gloriousflamboyant cuttlefish and the frightful waspfish. The list of the extraordinaryinhabitants that mesmerize divers dive afterdive seems endless.Till today every divepresents an opportunity to discover aspecies new to science in that part of theworld.

The dive crew was extremely proficient atfinding critters divers wished for. I askedthem to point out manta shrimps for me asI am enchanted by them. Manta shrimp are

able to turn their eyes 360 degrees, lookvivid and have a characteristic temper.Theyare also known to dart out of their hidingand brake aquarium glasses or evencameras when they feel frightened.

Most often however, divers on our vesselrequested to see the pygmy seahorse. It isdifficult to spot as it is incredibly wellcamouflaged.The color of the seahorsematches the pink or purple gorgonian itinhabits, and the body tubercles look very

similar to the polyps of the gorgonian.Their quarter inch size doesn’t help spotthem either.An unusual aspect of theseahorse is that it's the male who becomespregnant and carries the eggs in a pouch inhis belly, after the eggs have been depositedthere by the female.

I found two great tools to ease my task ofmacro photography.A metal pointer wasgiven to me that I used to dig into themuck to stabilize myself with one handwhile taking pictures with the other, and amagnifying glass that I used to help melocate the tiny critters around LembehStrait. Every dive proved to be perfect fordivers like me -- with my short attentionspan. I could hardly take a picture of oneunusual thing when my dive guide waspointing out the next peculiar, oddcreature, and the next…

The boat crew was one of the mostattentive I came across during my divingyears.They treated everybody friendly, tookcare of our camera gear with great cautionand found us all sorts of critters diversasked to see (and my list was particularlylong). Every member of the dive teamlogged hundreds of dives in the Strait andwas extremely knowledgeable about thefish, and shrimp, that lived in their waters.

After the thrilling dives, we shared stories

and well prepared meals in the restaurantwith fellow divers. One thing I enjoy abouttravelling is to meet new people. Divers area whole different breed; there is nothingnormal and ordinary about us. It isintriguing to hear about places I neverknew were on the map, and taking mentalnotes about their location.Word of mouthis the best way to find out the real storyabout places one should visit, not theLonely Planet books.

Well-traveled divers, many who have visitednumerous famous dive destinations all overthe world agreed that there is no otherplace like Lembeh. It is still relativelyunknown, therefore peaceful and filled witha great number of breath taking marinewonders. Upon our departure, Les wavedus off and wished farewell, again, just likeon Fantasy Island.

©Szilvia Gogh, USA

When to go:Diving Lembeh Strait can beaccomplished year-round owing to thesheltering influence of Lembeh Island.No matter what inclement weathersystem may be passing, or how strongthe currents may be, there will benumerous sites with calm conditionssuitable for easy for diving.

What not to miss:Tangkoko Nature ReserveMinahasa Highland AreaBitung Traditional MarketsTrekking to Mahawu VolcanoAnd diving in the Lembeh Strait!

The basics:Time zone: GMT +8Languages: Bahasa IndonesiaCurrency: Rupiah (IDR)Capital: Jakarta

Useful websites:www.lembehresort.comwww.indonesia-tourism.com

footprints:

“It’s a volcano, as long as we keep going upwe’ll be fine”. My climbing companion’sambitious plan to abandon our guide, whilstimpressive, was also too impulsive by half.Here we were, half way up an activevolcano in Tanzania, in the pitch black night,surrounded by thick fog and sounds ofindecipherable origin, with our guide fastasleep at our feet. Okuni, our brave Maasaiwarrior, experienced mountain guide, andonly hope of scaling the volcano, alsopossessed the enviable ability to fallinstantly and deeply asleep. It was time fora decision.Try again to wake ourslumbering leader or push on alone.

We had come to this rugged corner ofnorthern Tanzania to climb OldoinyoLengai, an ancient volcano known to theMaasai as the ‘Mountain of God’. Lookingbeyond East Africa’s world famousdestinations – the Serengeti, Maasai Maraand Kilimanjaro - Oldoinyo Lengai appearedas precisely the ‘off the beaten track’destination we had sought.A picture-perfect volcano, emerging almost 10,000feet from the surrounding plains, itepitomised remoteness, adventure and, let’sface it, climbing the Mountain of Godsounded, well, epic.

Whilst undoubtedly huge, Oldoinyo Lengai

(often simply referred to as ‘Lengai’)appears from afar as a gently sloping, lush,green hill, an otherwise moderate hike thatone could accomplish in an hour or twoand have a picnic on top.As we were todiscover, the Mountain of God in all itsglory is neither moderate nor a picnic.

Lengai and its companion Lake Natronshare the Crater Highlands region with theworld heritage listed Ngorongoro Crater.However, the logistical realities of theTanzanian road system and the ‘big name’focus of most tourist itineraries sees Lengaiand Lake Natron frequently bypassed in

favour of their more famous neighbour.Asa consequence, our tents were the onlyones in Lake Natron Camp throughout ourstay and we saw no other vehicles duringour late afternoon visit to the lake. LakeNatron sits 25 kilometers north of Lengaiand is a wonder in its own right.We hadendured an extended rough and dusty drivealong the make-it-up-as-you-go tracks thatlead off the highway at Mto Wa Mbu (‘Riverof Mosquitoes’), through Engaruka, finallydelivering us to the shores of theshimmering lake in the late afternoon.Withthe sun retreating behind the surroundinghills and the sweeping dance of theflamingos playing out before us, our

position on the lakeshore was a quiet,peaceful and stunning place to be.The onlysounds in the world were the clacking ofthe pink and white beauties on the lake andour feet crunching the salt encrustedshores as we raced the quickly fading lightto capture the spectacle.The intense andenergy-sapping heat of the day had passedand the cooling breeze off the lake was awelcome relief.We were honoured to havethe performance to ourselves, and buoyedby the fact that the interactions of life inAfrica’s wild places continue to play outeach day regardless of the existence (orsize) of an audience.

The serenity of the lake was offset by theever-present Oldoinyo Lengai whichloomed over our shoulders as a reminderof our night’s planned activities.“Lengai is awall” laughed David, our driver, guide andentertainer,“and I am not climbing it. Alocal Maasai will take you to his God”. Ourmountain guide, the softly and infrequentlyspoken Okuni, assured us that Ngai wasgenerally a welcoming host with onlyinfrequent demonstrations of his might.Andyes, according to Okuni, somewhat baffledat being asked such an apparently obviousquestion, of course Ngai is a man.Ascending Lengai requires a midnight startin order to avoid the scorching heat of

a picture perfect volcano rising from the surroundingplains, it epitomised remoteness and adventure

12

The Mountain of GodCam Fergus climbs Oldoinyo Lengai in Tanzania for a new perspective on God and man

““””

the Crater Highlands during the day.Theseven to nine hour round trip (4-6 hourascent, 3 hour descent) requires notechnical climbing prowess, justdetermination and a willingness to sliprepeatedly on the crumbling, powderyslopes. Due to the largely unmarked andapparently random routes up the mountainan experienced guide is essential.

But what to do about our brave Maasaiguide, halfway up the mountain of his god,asleep amidst the rubble of the lasteruption? Despite previous attempts atcalling his name (meaning ‘three’ in the Maalanguage, signifying his place in the familybehind his older siblings) and hurling rocksnoisily down the mountain, Okuni was notto be disturbed. Following yet anothersuspicious and undeniably close soundemanating from just beyond the fog (“likethe thud of heavy paws landing on rock”), awell meaning nudge was administered toOkuni’s leg, awakening our guide with astart.

The major challenge in climbing Lengai(aside from keeping your guide awake) isnavigating the crumbling channels createdby the lava flows which then give way toincreasingly steep and slippery rock faces.Whilst Lengai’s last major eruption was in1966, its active status has been maintainedthrough a series of significant but smallereruptions, the most recent reported inSeptember 2007.The lava flows, powderyslopes, and pungent stench of sulphur wereevidence to us that whilst (like our guide)Lengai is frequently sleeping, it has certainlynot finished its active life just yet. For manyhours we climbed in and out of the gulliesformed by Lengai’s eruptions, slipping

(repeatedly) and cursing ourselves(frequently).

Whilst the unseasonable rain was no doubtappreciated on a wider scale, its arrivalaround 4am did nothing to help elevateour position on the mountain or ourmorale.At least the rain would “keep awaythe leopards” reassured Okuni, breakingthe silence he’d maintained for the pasttwo hours.At this point Okuni produced arope and suggested that he use it to tiehimself to my climbing companion for hersafety on the next section of the climb.Whilst our guide was doing an otherwisegrand job, the kind offer was refused dueto the alarming tendency of said guide tofall asleep without notice, often mere stepsfrom sheer cliff faces.

The summit of Lengai appeared as the rainleft us and the sun lightened the sky to theeast. Our toil throughout the night haddelivered us to a crater which was coveredin an impenetrable, sulphuric fog, seeminglyan inadequate reward for the effort.Perhaps Ngai doesn’t show his face thateasily.A temporary break in the fogrevealed towers of lava protruding fromthe crater, and the frequent sound ofcracking and popping around us evidencedthe very much active status of this ancientvolcano. Denied the sunrise vista, ourdescent featured perhaps the lovliestpanorama of the trek.The surrounding hills,painted green & grey behind the retreatingmists, was the unanticipated treat thatbolstered our spirits for the returnjourney. Despite this, we were exhaustedand a little dejected when collected byDavid, who, reading our faces, simplyreaffirmed “I told you Lengai is a wall”.

For days after I was disappointed aboutOldoinyo Lengai. I had felt deflated after allthe effort and expectation.And therein liesthe lesson.The places we visit owe usnothing.They were not created overmillions of years so that we might simplyhave a great set of photos to take home.Africa makes no guarantees and oftenissues its greatest treats according torandom chance. Other climbers havereported looking deep into Lengai’sgurgling crater and of spectacular vistasfrom the summit right across the CraterHighlands to Mount Kilimanjaro.All isforgiven. I now look at Lengai, a picture ofexactly what a volcano should look like,and send up a prayer to Ngai to welcomeand reveal his inexorable charms to all ofthose souls willing to venture off thebeaten path.And to please keep his Maasaifaithful awake, there are leopards outthere…© Cam Fergus

When should I go?Mid-to late June through October is thebest time to visit Tanzania in general.

How much do things cost?Whilst it is technically possible toorganise your own transport and thenorganise a guide from Engaresero nearLake Natron, most find it easier to use atour operator out of Arusha or Mto WaMbu.Tour operators may chargebetween $100 and $150USD pp per dayfor the minimum two day trip to trekOldoinyo Lengai ex-Arusha.

footprints:

I arrived in Tasmania with an Irishman andstation wagon I met the night before; ahh,the beauty of spontaneous travel. Bob and Icircumnavigated the island for a week,seeing many of the popular tourist sites,from the “wild” city streets of Tasmania’scapital town Hobart to glow worms andunderground streams in the Marakoopacave system. Upon our return toDevonport, the arrival point of Melbourne’sferries, Irish Bob returned to Australia’smainland and I plopped down for a turkeypotpie and Guinness.Tomorrow I wouldrent a car and begin exploring Tasmania’sinterior, as well as my own, though at thetime I was blissfully ignorant of this fact.

At 9am sharp, under clear blue skies, Itraded an imprint of my credit card andphotocopy of my driver’s license for awhite, Mitsubishi Magna station wagon withblack racing stripes adorning the sides. 100clicks southeast of Devonport, just outsidethe small town of Cressy, I found my firstriver.With a cold beer at my side and thelate afternoon sun dancing over the glidingwater, I sat in the back, dangled my legs, andconstructed my fly rod. Rumor has itTasmania’s highland lakes and country

streams are filled with wild brown andrainbow trout impatiently waiting to rise.Over the next four days this rumor wouldbe my inspiration despite reality provingotherwise.

Earlier that afternoon I had rented asecondhand pair of chest waiters and as Istepped off the two-foot bank and gainedmy footing, I crossed my fingers and heldmy breath, hoping I would not feel thegradual chill of water seeping through mywool socks. Dry and happy, I began to cast,fishing underwater with a wet fly and asmall weight. Nothing doing. I may havegotten a bite, though I could have mistakenthe slight pull for a passing branch or bit ofmoss.After a sporting effort and a fewdifferent sections of water, I packed up andheaded for the mountains and Arthur’sLake. Climbing through a succession ofhairpin turns, I was often rewarded with abeautiful view of the plains stretching for

miles below. I cast only glances, however, inan attempt to stay between the lines.Whileascending I had the privilege of locating aradio station discussing a band named“Sheva.” This group is made up of bothIsraeli and Palestinian artists who share acommunity in the Galilee and the commongoal of bringing conflicting peoples togetherthrough music. I smiled internally as Iexperienced the joy created by these menand women.

Upon reaching the top the radio cut out, asdid the sun.The word ‘summit’ isinappropriate here because once ataltitude, this place is an enormous plateaudotted with lakes and rivers, both small andlarge.After turning down the six-kilometerroad to the lake, I pulled over among pinesand granite rock, bedding down for thenight.A waxing moon was hiding justbehind the treetops.With the rear seatsdown nearly flat, I laid out my sleeping bag,opened a can of Italian lentils, another ofhoney-sweetened carrot slices, proppedmyself up on my ancient camping pillow(which had miraculously lost its mustyscent,) donned my new headlamp, andproceeded to dine with Kane and Abel, agreat story by Jeffery Archer. Later satisfied,I pulled an army blanket over me anddrifted off to sleep.At 3am I awoke chilledto the bone and curled up for a fewfrustrating hours until the sun rose and Icould again cast my fly.

The lake was restless as the wind whippedacross its surface, discouraging any fish

from rising and my fly from smoothlygliding through the air. I gave up and lackinga camping stove, dined on cold oatmeal. Ichecked out other areas, all with the samewindblown result then met a man whooffered location advice and gave me some“guaranteed to work” flies. Upon arrival,the lake had turned into an ocean.Whitecaps adorned it everywhere. Iexplored, sat, read, contemplated, then coldand discouraged, went in search of ageneral store to buy dinner and a coffee. Ichose poorly with dinner. Cannedspaghetti in tomato sauce with a bit ofcheese was tough to stomach when eatencold.After a body-warming shot of whiskeyin my coffee, I set off again for a small lakelocated deep in the bush. So deep, I began

14

“ rruummoouurr hhaass iitt TTaassmmaanniiaa’’ss hhiigghhllaanndd llaakkeess aarree

ffiilllleedd wwiitthh wwiilldd bbrroowwnn aanndd rraaiinnbbooww ttrroouutt ”

AAnn AAnngglleerr’’ss PPaarraaddiissee -- AAllmmoosstt

Joshua Handler goes fly fishing in Tasmania

to ponder the intelligence of my decision.

After spending a full night and day cold andwindblown, not too mention a bitembittered at the lack of fish and decentfood, I arrived at the end of the road.Afully exposed lake with rough water lay inthe middle of scrub brush no taller than myhip.As no fish were rising, I set off tocollect what bits of firewood I could findand built a small teepee in the parking lot.Two young guys rolled up in their Ute(pickup truck) and asked if I had caughtanything. I told them I hadn’t yet tried andthey countered with a few suggestions onwhere to fish.As dusk was approaching, andI had already eaten my unsavory meal, Ipulled on my waiters and decided to give ita shot.

Suddenly, the wind died, the two blokes leftin search of a campsite, and I was left aloneon the rocky bank that receded intodarkness.The water around me stilled toglass and I began to cast my line.Thoughno fish rose, I settled into an even pace,imagining my arm a metronome, enjoyingthe absence of trees and high brush.Distant, low mountains surrounded me onall sides, affecting a large crater.As the sundropped behind the foothills, first anorange, then red, and finally purple huereflected on the water. It simultaneously litup the lower sky, which merged into thedeep blue before black.A few bright starscountered these colors with a staunchwhiteness. In settled silence, it was onlymyself, a few distant insects, and the windresistance created by my fly line. My eyesand heart were feasting. So much so, Iwanted to scream or shout, having noother way to express my gratitude andexhilaration.

After dressing in warm clothing and this

time putting the blanket in my summersleeping bag, I settled into sleep.Again Iawoke chilled to the bone, this time around2:30am. I tossed and turned, cursed andshivered until 4:30am when I decided tohead towards town and some artificialwarmth.Thinking the windows wereobscured with dew or fog, I stepped out toclean them. I found a solid layer of iceenveloping them all. Student I.D. in hand Iwent to work. Blasting the heater, I left thelake, though I did not get very far.A few kilometers up the road I cameacross another piece of water.This onewith rock formations breaking the surface,and the sky’s starlit, moon-bleached blueimage resting on the lake’s calm face. Ibacked up and decided to watch thesunrise. Once again I was blessed.The air

was eternally still as the earth slowlylightened and then without warning, thegreat fireball broke free from the mountainand swiftly raised its head. Never beforehave I witnessed a sunset and sunrise likethese.

Not up for another day in desolation Iheaded towards a small town nestled in abeautifully green valley. I spotted a streamand general store sitting side by side andasked the owner if I could park on herproperty and catch a few winks in the backof my car while basking in the sun’s glare. Iawoke to the smell of fresh cookies andafter a sample, dipped into the shallowcreek for a fish. I was blessed with my firstcatch, a seven-inch rainbow.With a prayerof gratitude, I returned her to her waters.

Although I never did figure out how towoo these foreign fish I thoroughly enjoyedall Tasmania had to offer. Whethertrekking, fishing, wine tasting, or cityslicking,Tasmania is a nation filled with

kindness, generosity, and vibrancy createdby those who live close to the land.

© Joshua Handler, USA

When to go: Being in the southern hemisphere,Tasmania’s warmest months areDecember to March.The lingeringsummer light adds welcome hours to theday when hiking or camping.Autumn putson a show of color as the leaves changeand fall.Key Facts:GMT+10Currency:Australia dollarWhat not to miss:Gourmet food and wine, great outdooractivities from trekking to mountainbiking to canoeing.

footprints:

BUMMER.The whole point of thisadventure was to step out onto land atCape Horn, the southernmost tip of theworld, to just breathe and maybe even puta rock in my pocket. Didn’t happen.

The winds which have sunk so many shipstrying to round the Horn would have sunkour small zodiacs in a minute. The captainexplained to the greatly disappointed bunchof suited-up travelers that winds of 30knots were acceptable for a landing.However, today it was a gusty 78 knots,with high seas and a sky gray and heavywith rain: typical of almost all the days atthe Horn.

Let me back up just a bit to say thatBuenos Aires,Argentina, our SouthAmerican arrival destination, was agorgeous, clean, tree-lined mega-city wherewe shopped the tourist avenues, tried theTango, and ate so much beef, I think I may“moo”!

From Buenos Aires it was nearly five hoursby air to Ushuaia, capital town for theisland province of Tierra del Fuego which isshared with Chile. I’m not sure how thisworks but it seems to. The whole area atthe southern tip of South America isreferred to as Patagonia by both countries.Remember this name, Ushuaia, as it willbecome a hot spot for eco-tourism in theyears to come. Already this small townwith few resources and a short seasonhosts large cruise ships from Buenos Aires

on their way around Cape Horn thennorth to Santiago, Chile.

Ushuaia was where we boarded oursmallish ship, the Via Australis, for thevoyage out to Cape Horn, around theBeagle Channel, then up the Straight ofMagellen to Punta Arenas, Chile. Steppingfrom the dock to the ship meant steppingfrom Argentina to Chile complete withinspections and passport stamps. The

Via Australis had only 64 rooms, a crew oftop-notch Chileans, and hosted travelersfrom no less than seventeen countries.Perfect!

For three days the Via Australis was ourhome as we cruised in and out of thismosaic of islands sometimes brightly lit andother times shrouded in misty, low clouds.This was January, high summer, and Iexpected to see more wildlife but onlyglimpsed a few dolphins, cormorants andgulls; the penguins come later.

Chilly rain but no wind allowed us tolaunch the zodiacs for a closer look at

Pluschow Glacier in the Straight ofMagellen. So, I put on my entire suitcaseand jumped in the little rubber boat… Theglaciers were crashing and crunching, thenmix in the noise of nesting cormorantseverywhere and you have a true off-keysymphony of nature. Not bad; so good infact that I forgot to be cold.

The sun was out so we disembarked ontoa beautiful green mountain island to do

some hiking and beach walking with aChilean naturalist who was full to the brimwith information about his part of theworld. At the summit of the littlemountain, at the tiptop of our hike he turnsto the group and says,“OK, be quietnow….just listen and look…andremember.” The view of the channel wasbreathtaking and yes, I will remember thatmoment.

The last outing before docking in PuntaArenas, Chile, was a pink and gold, earlymorning zodiac trip to Isle Magdelena;home to over 100,000 Magellanic penguins-I counted them! A mid-sized penguin with

Cruisin’ Patagonia

EElllleenn MMoorriiaarrttyy ttrraavveellss aarroouunndd CCaappee HHoorrnn

“ for three days we cruised in and out of this

mosaic of islands, sometimes brightly lit and

other times shrouded in misty low clouds ”

black and white tux, theyswim like littletorpedoes and soundlike braying donkeys.And if you are very still,they will curiouslyapproach.

The Magellanic penguinlives on a precise bodyclock that isunexplainable in humanterms and I take greatpleasure in realizing thatsome phenomenon shallremain unexplainable. Itried to paint here or atleast do some sketchesbut all I wanted to dowas to sit still and watchand listen andremember.

After docking in PuntaArenas and spending aday we flew north toSantiago-back to summer heat. My planhere was to visit the artists markets,especially the Dominica market. Here Ifound painters painting, sculpturessculpting, jewelry makers, leather workersand potters in a red tiled village nestledamong shady trees and dotted with cafes.Perfect.

© Ellen Moriarty, USA

When to go:high season is October to the end ofMarch, with the summer months (andlongest days) being mid-December toFebruary.

What not to miss out on:Parque National Torres del PaineSantiago’s artists marketsTango in Buenos AiresWildlife on Isle MagdelenaThe many activities on offer in theregion, from horseback riding to flyfishing to snowboarding.

Useful websites:www.australis.comwww.patagonia-argentina.comwww.interpatagonia.comwww.enjoy-patagonia.org

The basics:Currency: the Argentian Peso and theChilean PesoCapital:Arentina - Buenos Aires /Chile - SantiagoLanguage: SpanishTimezone: GMT -3

footprints:

“ here I found painters painting, sculpterssculpting, in a red tiled village ”

INCA TRAILSMartin Li RRP £10.50

Martin Li traces the rise andfall of the Incas as he travelsacross the Andes from theempire’s birthplace to itsbreathtaking pinnacle atMachu Picchu and beyond.Aninformative historical account,this book is also anentertaining and inspiring

piece of travel writing that gives a real flavour ofmodern-day Bolivian and Peruvian culture, and of thestunning landscapes that the region offers.The author hasa clear and at times humorous writing style and hesuccessfully and seamlessly weaves between educationalfact or anecdote and adventurous travelogue. Certainly agood read for anyone interested in South Americanhistory and culture or for those planning on exploringthe area. www.inca-trails.orgLouise Alexander

Unique Places:Green & Blue Wines“ Wine is a friend, wine is a joy and, like sunshine, wine is the birthright ofall ”Andre Simon (1877 - 1970)

Green and Blue Wines is an independent wine bar and shop with twooutlets in London.The one I visited is on Bedford Road Clapham; justa stone’s throw from Clapham North tube station.This is a wine barand shop with a difference; it has a distinctly boutique feel servingwines sourced from smaller producers who make their products withlove and passion.The selection is small but varied with a good range ofvarieties which are organic or produced with minimal chemicalintervention.There are a range of yummy platters to accompany yourwine including a Neal’s Yard cheese option with lovely semi-driedgrapes.They offer tasting evenings at reasonable prices and also

bespoke food services for special occasions.As if these weren’t enough reasons to visit … on top of all this the service is great,distinctly non-London; the staff are knowledgeable but above all else friendly and engaging.www.greenandbluewines.com Polly Fryer

Hidden gem: 19 Princelet Street 19 Princelet Street in Spitalfields, London is a fragile, magical unrestoredHuguenot master silk weaver's home, whose old shabby frontage conceals arare surviving synagogue built over its garden.Since housing French Huguenotsfleeing persecutionit has also housed Irish settlers and Jewish arrivals, amongstothers. This unique heritage site aspires to become a permanent celebrationand exhibition of how all the diverse communities have made Britain a richerplace.There are all-too-rare public openings in May, June and September duringthe fund-raising period, which aims to ensure this international historic site ofconscience's very survival. However, visits at any time of the year may bearranged for groups.This year the exhibition is open on Sundays throughoutMay and June. Demand for this museum is high so arrive arely and don’t missout. www.19princeletstreet.org.uk

Off the ShelfBOOK REVIEWS

BLLOD RIVERTim Butcher RRP £7.99

This is a captivating first handaccount of an amazing journeywhich has had much deservingpraise heaped upon it.Thejourney that the author takesis both brave and insane, andtherefore makes forcompelling reading.The authorwrites with passion, honestyand humour. Frustrated with

the difficulties inherent in reporting the Congo on hisfirst assignment there, he becomes determined toembark upon one of the world's most dangerousjourneys, retracing the route of the Victorian explorerStanley along the length of the Congo. He combineshistory and travel writing with a tale of risk andadventure, but what sets the book apart is the author'spassion for the region and his empathy with the peoplethat he meets along the way. Polly Fryer

Liked the mag?Then tell all your friends!

www.itchyfeetmagazine.comApril 2008

AuRevoir