janome magnolia 7318 instruction

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INSTRUCTION MANUAL

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  • INSTRUCTION MANUAL

  • IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONSThis sewing machine is not a toy. Do not allow children to play with this machine.The machine is not intended for use by children or mentally infirm persons without supervision.This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for household use only.Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.

    DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock:1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing

    machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

    3. Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately. 4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into

    water or other liquid.

    WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:1. Do not allow children to play with the machine. The machine is not intended for use by children or infirme

    persons without proper supervision.Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or nearchildren.

    2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this owners manual.Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owners manual.

    3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has beendropped or damaged, or dropped into water.

    4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation opening of this sewing machine andfoot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loosen cloth.

    5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.6. Do not use outdoors.7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (O) position, then remove plug from outlet.9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

    10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.12. Do not use bent needles.13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.14. Switch this sewing machine off (O) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the

    needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the like.15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when

    making any other adjustments mentioned in this owners manual.

    SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONSThe design and specifications are subject to change without a prior notice.

    Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National

    legistlation relating to electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.

    (European Union only.)

  • 1TABLE OF CONTENTS

    SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

    Name of Parts ........................................................... 2

    Standard Accessories ................................................ 3

    Accessory storage .................................................... 3

    Extension Table ........................................................ 3

    Free-arm sewing ....................................................... 4

    SECTION 2. GETTING READY TO SEW

    Connecting the Power Supply .................................. 4

    Controlling the Sewing Speed ................................... 5

    Reverse Stitch Lever ................................................ 5

    Dropping the Feed Dog ............................................ 5

    Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot .................... 6

    Changing the Presser Foot ...................................... 6

    Removing and Attaching the Foot Holder ................. 6

    Changing Needles .................................................... 7

    Needle and Thread Chart ......................................... 7

    Winding the Bobbin .................................................. 8

    Setting the spool ..................................................... 8

    Removing the bobbin ............................................... 8

    Winding the bobbin .................................................. 9

    Inserting the bobbin ................................................. 10

    Threading the Machine ........................................... 11

    Drawing up the Bobbin Thread............................... 12

    Selecting the Stitch Pattern .................................... 13

    Pattern selector dial .............................................. 13

    Stitch Length Dial .................................................... 13

    Adjusting stretch stitch balance .............................. 14

    Stitch Width Dial ..................................................... 14

    Variable needle position .......................................... 14

    Balancing Needle Thread Tension .......................... 15

    SECTION 3. BASIC SEWING

    Straight Stitch Sewing ............................................. 16

    Starting to sew ...................................................... 16

    Changing the sewing direcition

    Finishing sewing ................................................... 16

    Seam guides on the needle plate ........................... 17

    Truning a square corner ......................................... 17

    SECTION 4. UTILITY STITCHES

    Basic Zigzag ............................................................ 18

    Overcasting ............................................................. 18

    Knit Stitch ................................................................. 19

    Tricot Stitch (Multiple Zigzag Stitch) ...................... 19

    Straight Stretch Stitch .............................................. 20

    Zigzag Stretch Stitch .............................................. 20

    Button Sewing .......................................................... 21

    4-Step Buttonhole ................................................... 22

    To adjust buttonhole stitch density ........................ 22

    Corded Buttonhole .................................................. 23

    Zipper Application .................................................... 24

    Blind Hemming ....................................................... 27

    SECTION 5. DECORATIVE STITCHES

    Decorative Satin Stitches ....................................... 28

    Decorative Stretch Stitches ..................................... 28

    Smocking ................................................................ 29

    Pin Tucking ............................................................. 30

    Shell Tucking .......................................................... 30

    Fagoting .................................................................. 31

    Patchwork ............................................................... 31

    SECTION 6. CARE AND MAINTENANCE

    Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs ............... 32

    Replacing the Bobbin Holder .................................. 33

    Replacing the Light Bulb ........................................ 33

    Troubleshooting ...................................................... 34

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    Names of Parts

    q Bobbin winder stopperw Bobbin winder spindlee Hole for additional spool pinr Spool holdert Spool piny Bobbin winder thread guideu Thread take-up leveri Face plateo Thread cutter!0 Needle plate!1 Extension table (Accessory storage)!2 Hook cover plate!3 Hook cover plate release button!4 Thread tension dial!5 Reverse stitch lever!6 Stitch length dial!7 Pattern selector dial!8 Stitch width dial!9 Presser foot@0 Needle@1 Needle clamp screw@2 Foot holder@3 Setscrew@4 Carrying handle@5 Handwheel@6 Power switch@7 Machine socket@8 Drop feed lever@9 Free-arm#0 Foot lifter

    SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

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    Standard Accessories

    q Zipper foot Ew Blind hemming stitch foot Ge Sliding buttonhole foot Jr Needlest Bobbinsy Screwdriveru Lint brushi Seam ripper (buttonhole opener)o Spool holder (large)!0 Spool holder (small)!1 Additional spool pin!2 Felt cushion

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    Accessory storage

    The standard accessories can be stored in the

    accessory storage box under the extension table.

    Draw out the storage box from the table as

    shown.

    q Accessory storage box

    Extension Table

    To detach:Pull the extension table to the left.

    To attach:Insert the pin into the hole and push the extensiontable to snap it in place.

    q Pinw Hole

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    Free-arm sewingFree-arm sewing is used for stitching sleeves,waistbands, pant legs or any other tubulargarments.It is also useful for darning socks or mending kneesor elbows.

    Connecting the Power Supply

    z Turn the power switch off.x Insert the machine plug into the machine

    socket.c Insert the power supply plug into the wall

    outlet.v Turn the power switch on.

    q Power switchw Machine pluge Machine socketr Power supply plugt Wall outlet

    NOTE:Before connecting to the power supply, makesure the voltage shown on the machineconforms to your electrical power.

    SECTION 2. GETTING READY TO SEW

    WARNING:While in operation, always keep your eyes onthe sewing area, and do not touch any movingparts such as the thread take-up lever,handwheel or needle.Always turn off the power switch and unplugfrom the power supply:- when leaving the machine unattended.- when attaching or removing parts.- when cleaning the machine.Do not place anything on the foot control,otherwise the machine will run intermittently.

    Operating Instructions:The symbol "O" of a switch indicates the "off"position of a switch.

    For an appliance with a polarized plug (one bladewider than the other):To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug isintended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.If it does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse theplug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualifiedelectrician to install the proper outlet. Do notmodify the plug in any way.

    The foot controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 isused with the sewing machine Model 7318 (USAmarket only).

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    Dropping the Feed DogThe drop feed lever is located underneath thefree-arm bed on the backside of the machine.

    To drop the feed dog, push the lever in thedirection of the arrow, as illustrated.

    To raise the feed dog, push the lever in thedirection of the arrow, as illustrated, and turn thehandwheel toward you.

    The feed dog must be up for regular sewing.q Drop feed leverw Raised positione Lowered position

    Controlling the Sewing Speed

    Foot controlSewing speed can be varied by the foot control.The harder you depress the foot control, thefaster the machine runs.

    Reverse Stitch LeverPush the reverse stitch lever down to sew inreverse.The machine will sew in reverse while the lever ispushed.

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    Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot

    The presser foot lifter raises and lowers thepresser foot.

    You can raise the foot about 1/4" (0.6 cm) higherthan the normal up position for easy removal ofthe presser foot, or to help you place heavy fabricunder the foot.

    q Lowered positionw Normal up positione Extra up position

    Changing the Presser Foot

    To remove:Raise the needle to its highest position by turningthe handwheel counterclockwise. Raise thepresser foot, and press the lever on the back ofthe foot holder.

    q Lever

    CAUTION:Turn OFF the power switch before changing thefoot. Always use the proper foot for the selectedpattern. The wrong foot can cause the needle tobreak. Do not push the lever down to prevent itfrom being broken.

    To attach:Place the desired presser foot, so that the pin onthe foot lies just under the groove on the footholder. Lower the presser foot lifter to lock thefoot in place.

    w Groovee Pin

    Removing and Attaching the Foot Holder

    WARNING: Turn OFF the power switch before detaching or attaching the foot holder.To remove:Remove the setscrew by turning itcounterclockwise with a screwdriver and removethe foot holder.

    To attach:Match the hole in the foot holder with thethreaded hole in the presser bar. Fit the setscrewinto the hole. Tighten the screw by turning itclockwise with a screwdriver.

    q Setscreww Foot holdere Holer Threaded hole

  • 7Changing Needles

    CAUTION:Always make sure to turn the power switch offand disconnect the machine from power supplybefore changing the needle.

    Raise the needle by turning the handwheel andlower the presser foot.Turn off the power switch.

    z Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning itcounterclockwise.Remove the needle from the clamp.q Needle clamp screw

    x Insert a new needle into the needle clamp withthe flat side of the needle to the rear.When inserting the needle into the needleclamp, push it up against the stopper pin andtighten the needle clamp screw firmly.w Stopper pine Flat side

    To check needle straightness, place the flat sideof the needle onto something flat (a needle plate,glass etc.) The gap between the needle and theflat surface should be consistent.Never use a blunt needle.

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    FABRIC

    Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, OrgandyNet, Tulle

    Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine,Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen,Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau de Soie,Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, Satin-backedCrepe, Qiana

    Single Knits, Jersey, Swimwear, and Tricot

    Leather, Suede

    Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen,Poplin, Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz,Gabardine, Felt, Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics

    Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) StretchVelour, Stretch Terry, Sweater Knits

    Leather, Vinyl, Suede

    Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking

    Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Fur,Drapery Fabrics

    Leather, Suede

    Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics

    Topstitching for Special Finishes

    TYPE of NEEDLE

    UniversalBall Point

    Blue Tipped NeedleUniversal

    Blue Tipped NeedleBall Point

    Wedge PointLeather Needle

    Universal

    Ball Point

    Wedge PointLeather Needle

    Denim Needle

    Universal

    Wedge PointLeather Needle

    Universal

    Topstitching Needle

    WEIGHT

    Very Light

    Light

    Medium

    Heavy

    Very Heavy

    NEEDLE SIZE

    9 (65)9 (65)

    11 (75)11 (75)12 (80)

    11 (75)11 (75)

    11 (75)

    14 (90)

    14 (90)

    14 (90)

    16 (100)

    16 (100)

    16 (100)18 (110)

    16 (100)

    14 (90)

    Needle and Thread Chart

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    (A)

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    Winding the Bobbin

    Setting the spoolPlace a spool of thread on the spool pin with thethread coming off the spool as illustrated.

    A: Press the large spool holder firmly against thespool of thread.q Large spool holder

    B: For a small spool, use the small spool holder.w Small spool holder

    Additional spool pinThe additional spool pin is for bobbin windingwithout unthreading the machine.Insert the additional spool pin into the hole.Place the felt and a spool on the pin.

    e Additional spool pinr Spool pin feltt Spool pin hole

    Removing the bobbin

    z Push the hook cover plate release button tothe right and remove the cover plate.q Hook cover plate release buttonw Hook cover plate

    x Lift out the bobbin.e Bobbin

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    Winding the bobbin

    z Pull out the handwheel to disengage theclutch.q Handwheel

    x Draw the thread from the spool. Guide thethread around the bobbin winder thread guide.w Bobbin winder thread guide

    c Thread through the hole in the bobbin fromthe inside to the outside.Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindlewith the free end of the thread coming out atthe top.e Bobbin winder spindle

    v Push the bobbin to the right.

    NOTE:Do not move the bobbin winder spindle while themachine is running.

    b With the free end of the thread held in yourhand, depress the foot control. Stop themachine when the bobbin has been wound afew layers, and cut the thread close to thebobbin.

    n Depress the foot control again. When thebobbin is fully wound, it will stop automatically.Return the bobbin winder to its originalposition by moving the spindle to the left, andcut the thread as illustrated.

    m Push in the handwheel to engage the clutch.

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    Inserting the bobbin

    z Place the bobbin in the bobbin holder with thethread running off as illustrated.q Thread

    x Guide the thread into the front notch on thefront side of the bobbin holder. Draw thethread to the left, sliding it between thetension spring blades.w Front notche Tension spring blade

    c Continue to draw the thread lightly until thethread slips into the side notch.r Side notch

    v Pull out about 4 (10 cm) of thread. Attach thehook cover plate. Check the threading byreferring to the chart shown on the hook coverplate.t Thready Hook cover plate

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    Threading the Machine

    To set the needle thread:Raise the thread take-up lever to the highestposition by turning the handwheel.Raise the presser foot.

    z Draw the thread from the spool and pass itunder the thread guide. Then draw it downalong the right channel.q Thread guidew Right channel

    x Draw the thread up around the bottom of thethread guide plate.Pull the thread up along the left channele Thread guide plater Left channel

    c Firmly draw the thread from right to left overthe thread take-up lever and down into thetake-up lever eye.t Thread take-up lever

    v Draw the thread down along the left channeland slip the thread behind the needle barthread guide from the left.y Needle bar thread guide

    b Pass the thread through the needle eye fromthe front or use the needle threader (refer tothe next page).

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    Drawing up the Bobbin Thread

    z Raise the presser foot and hold the needlethread lightly with your left hand.q Needle thread

    x Turn the handwheel slowly toward you onecomplete turn. Bring the bobbin thread up bypulling the needle thread as illustrated.q Needle threadw Bobbin thread

    c Pull 4 (10 cm) of both threads back andunder the presser foot.

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    Selecting the Stitch Pattern

    Raise the needle to its highest position.

    Pattern Selector Dial

    Turn the pattern selector dial to set the symbol ofthe desired stitch pattern at the setting mark.

    q Pattern selector dialw Setting mark

    CAUTION:Do not turn the pattern selector dial while theneedle is in the fabric, otherwise the needle maybend or break.

    To select the stretch stitch patterns, set the stitchlength dial at S.S.

    e Stretch stitch patterns

    Stitch Length Dial

    Turn the stitch length dial to set the desired stitchlength number at the setting mark.The higher the number, the longer the stitchThe mark shows the adjustment rangewhen sewing the buttonhole.

    r Setting markt Stitch length dial

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    Adjusting stretch stitch balance

    If the stretch stitch patterns are uneven when yousew on a particular fabric, correct them by turningthe stitch length dial.

    If the patterns are drawn out, correct them bysetting the dial to the side.

    If the patterns are compressed, correct them bysetting the dial to the + side.

    Stitch Width Dial

    Turn the stitch width dial to set the desired stitchwidth number at the setting mark.The higher the number, the wider the stitch

    q Stitch width dialw Setting mark

    CAUTION:Do not turn the stitch width dial while the needleis in the fabric, otherwise the needle may bendor break.

    Variable needle position

    The needle drop position of the straight stitchescan be moved between the center (5) and left (0)with the stitch width dial.

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    Balancing Needle Thread Tension

    The thread tension should be adjusted dependingon the sewing materials, layers of fabric andsewing method.To adjust the thread tension, turn the tension dial.

    q Tension dial

    Balanced tension:

    The ideal straight stitch has threads lockedbetween two layers of fabric, as illustrated.

    For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread doesnot show on the right side (top side) of the fabric,and the needle thread shows slightly on thewrong side (bottom side) of the fabric.

    w Needle thread (Top thread)e Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)r Right side (Top side) of fabrict Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

    Needle thread tension is too tight:The bobbin thread (bottom thread) will appear onthe right side (top side) of the fabric.Loosen the needle thread tension by moving thedial to a lower number.

    Needle thread tension is too loose:The needle thread (top thread) will form loops onthe wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric.Tighten the needle thread tension by moving thedial to a higher number.

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    SECTION 3. BASIC SEWINGStraight Stitch SewingMachine setting:q Stitch pattern: Aw Stitch width: 0 or 5e Stitch length: 1.5 4r Thread tension: 2 6t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    Starting to sewRaise the presser foot and place the fabric underthe foot.Lower the needle into the fabric.Lower the presser foot and smooth the threadstoward the back. Depress the foot control.

    NOTES:Draw the threads to the left when sewing with thebuttonhole foot.To fasten the beginning of the seam, first sewseveral stitches in reverse then sew forward.

    Changing the sewing directionStop the machine and turn the handwheel towardyou to bring the needle down into the fabric.Raise the presser foot.Pivot the fabric around the needle to changesewing direction as desired. Lower the presserfoot and continue sewing in the new direction.

    Finishing sewing

    Press the reverse stitch lever and sew severalstitches in reverse at the end of the seam.

    Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric,drawing the threads to the back.

    Draw the threads up and into the thread cutter.The threads are cut the proper length for startingthe next seam.

    q Thread cutter

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    Seam guides on the needle plateThe seam guides on the needle plate help you tomeasure seam allowance.The numbers indicate the distance between thecenter needle position and the seam guide.

    q Seam guides

    Turning a square cornerThe cornering guide helps you maintain a 5/8(1.6 cm) seam allowance when sewing a corner.

    When the fabric edge facing you lines up with thecornering guide as illustrated, stop stitching andlower the needle into the fabric by turning thehandwheel toward you.Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric so theedge of the fabric will align with the 5/8 (1.6 cm)seam guide.Lower the presser foot and start stitching in thenew direction.

    w Cornering guide

    Number 15 20 4/8 5/8 6/8

    Spacing (cm) 1.5 2.0 1.3 1.6 1.9

    Spacing (inch) 1/2 5/8 3/4

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    SECTION 4. UTILITY STITCHESBasic ZigzagMachine settingq Stitch pattern: Cw Stitch width: 1 5e Stitch length: 0.5 3r Thread tension: 2 5t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    Simple zigzag stitching is widely used forovercasting, sewing on buttons etc.Adjust the stitch length to suit your sewing needs.

    NOTE:Use a stabilizer for stretch fabrics such as tricotand knits to prevent puckering.

    Overcasting

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Cw Stitch width: 5e Stitch length: 1 2r Thread tension: 3 7t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    Overcasting is used to prevent fabrics fromraveling at raw edges. It can be used to finish ahem edge.

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    Knit Stitch

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Gw Stitch width: 5e Stitch length: S.S.r Thread tension: 3 7t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    This stitch is ideal for finishing edges of stretchfabrics. It seams and finishes the fabric edgessimultaneously.

    Tricot Stitch (Multiple Zigzag Stitch)

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Dw Stitch width: 3 5e Stitch length: 0.5 1.5r Thread tension: 3 6t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    This stitch is used to finish a raw edge onsynthetics and other fabrics that tend to pucker.Place the fabric to leave a 5/8 (1.6 cm)allowance.Trim the extra allowance after sewing.It is also used for mending tears.

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    Straight Stretch Stitch

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Aw Stitch width: 0 or 5e Stitch length: S.S.r Thread tension: 2 5t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    The pattern is sewn with two stitches forward andone stitch backward, forming a seam that doesnot rip easily.Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch andarmhole seams.Also use it when constructing items such asbackpacks for extra strength.

    Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as thefabric moves back and forth.

    Zigzag Stretch Stitch

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Cw Stitch width: 2 5e Stitch length: S.S.r Thread tension: 2 5t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you mightuse a zigzag stitch.

    This stitch is used as a decorative topstitch aswell.

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    Button Sewing

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Cw Stitch width: Adjust as necessarye Stitch length: Anyr Thread tension: 3 7t Presser foot: Zigzag foot Ay Feed dog: Lowered

    Unthread the needle. Adjust the stitch width tomatch it with the span of the holes in the button.Turn the handwheel to check if the needle entersinto each hole in the button.Lower the foot to hold the button in place.The holes in the button should align with the slotof the foot.

    A pin can be placed on the foot to form a shank.Make sure to check if the needle enters into bothholes in the button.

    q PinRe-thread the needle and sew about 10 stitchesand cut the needle and bobbin threads at thebeginning.

    Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. Cutthe needle and bobbin threads leaving 8 (20 cm)tails.Bring the needle thread between the button andfabric through the holes in the button.Pull the needle thread to pick bobbin thread up tothe right side of the fabric.Wind the threads to from a shank and tie themtogether.

    w Needle threade Bobbin thread

    NOTE: Raise the feed dog after sewing.

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    4-Step ButtonholeMachine settingq Stitch pattern:w Stitch width: 45e Stitch length: 0.51r Thread tension: 1 5t Presser foot: Sliding buttonhole foot J

    z Set the pattern selector dial at .Carefully mark buttonhole length on fabric.Place the fabric under the foot with thebuttonhole marking running toward you.Draw both of needle and bobbin thread to theleft. Move the slider toward you so that the topmark w on the slider meets the start mark q.q Start markw Top marke Needle threadr Bobbin thread

    NOTE:The scale on the slider is engraved incentimeters.

    x Sew forward until you reach the front markingof your buttonhole. Stop sewing at a left stitch.

    c Raise the needle to its highest position.Set the pattern selector dial at . Sew 5stitches, then stop sewing at a right stitch.

    v Raise the needle to its highest position.Set the pattern selector dial at . Sew untilthe needle reach the back marking of buttonhole.

    b Raise the needle to its highest position.Set the pattern selector dial at .Sew 5 stitches, then stop sewing. Set the stitchlength dial to 0 and the pattern selector dial atstraight sewing.Sew a few locking stitches.

    n Raise the needle and presser foot. Remove thefabric from the machine and cut the sewingthread. Insert a pin inside the bartack.Then cut the opening with a seam ripper.Take care not to cut the stitches.

    t Needle thready Bobbin thread

    To adjust buttonhole stitch density:Set the stitch length dial between toadjust the buttonhole stitch density.

    u Denser buttonholei Coarser buttonhole

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    Corded ButtonholeMachine settingq Stitch pattern:w Stitch width: 45e Stitch length: 0.51r Thread tension: 1 5t Presser foot: Sliding buttonhole foot J

    z With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the fillercord on the spur at the back of the foot.Bring the ends toward you under the foot,clearing the front end.Hook the filler cord into the forks on the front ofthe foot to hold them tight.

    q Spurw Forks

    x Draw both of needle and bobbin thread to theleft. Move the slider toward you so that the topmark r on the slider meets the start mark e.

    e Start markr Top markt Needle thready Bobbin thread

    Lower the needle into the fabric at the settingpoint and lower the foot.Depress the foot control gently and sew thebuttonhole over the cord.The sewing sequence is the same as the 4-step buttonhole.

    c Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten itand cut the excess tails.To cut the buttonhole opening, refer to theinstructions on page 22.

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    Zipper Application

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Aw Stitch width: 5e Stitch length: 1.5 4r Thread tension: 3 6t Presser foot: Zipper foot E

    Attaching the zipper foot

    A: To sew the left side of the zipper, attachzipper foot with the right side pin.

    B: To sew the right side of zipper, attach thezipper foot with the left side pin.q Groovew Pin

    Fabric preparation

    z Add 3/8 (1 cm) to the zipper size.This is the overall opening size.q Right side of the fabricw 3/8 (1 cm)e Opening sizer Zipper sizet Slidery Zipper teethu Zipper tapei Wrong side of the fabrico End of the opening

    x Place the right (top) sides of the fabrictogether. Sew a bottom seam 5/8 (2 cm) fromthe right edge to the zipper bottom stopposition. Sew a few stitches in reverse to lock.Increase the stitch length to 4, set needlethread tension to 1, and baste the entirelength of the fabric.!0 5/8 (2 cm)!1 Basting!2 Reverse stitch!3 End of the opening!4 Bottom seam

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    To sew

    z Attach zipper foot with the right side pin.Fold back the upper layer seam allowance.Fold back the lower layer seam allowance toleave a 1/8 (0.4 cm) margin of fabric.q Lower layerw End of the openinge Zipper teethr 1/8 (0.4 cm) margint Upper layery Opening sizeu Folded edgei Basting

    x Place zipper teeth next to margin edge andbaste the zipper tape to the lower fabric layer.Align zipper foot with margin edge. Returnthread tension and stitch length to originalsettings.Sew a seam the entire length of zipper tape.

    c Stop the machine 2 (5 cm) before reachingthe slider, with needle in the fabric and raisethe foot, then unzip a few inches to clear apath for stitching.o Slider!0 2 (5 cm)

    v Remove fabric and close zipper. Take theupper fabric layer and lay it flat over thezipper.Baste the zipper tape to the upper fabric layer.!1 Basting!2 Zipper tape

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    !3

    !4

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    n

    b Raise and release the foot, and re-attach itwith the left side pin.Starting just below zipper bottom stop, sewacross fabric to about 3/8 (1 cm) distancefrom the basting line.Turn fabric 90 degrees and sew a seam theentire length of the zipper tape. Beforereaching the slider, stop the machine withneedle in fabric and raise the foot. Use seamripper to open a few inches of basting stitch.!3 Unstitch basting!4 3/8 (1 cm)

    n Unzip a few inches to clear a path forstitching.At end of seam, sew a few stitches in reverseto lock. Once both sides of zipper are sewn,use the seam ripper to open the basting stitch.

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    Blind Hemming

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: E or Fw Stitch width: 3 5e Stitch length: 2 3r Thread tension: 1 4t Presser foot: Blind hemming foot G

    z On heavy weight fabrics that ravel, the rawedge should be overcast first.Fold the hem under the fabric as illustrated forfine or medium fabrics.Fold a hem with the wrong side up forming a1/8 (0.5 cm) allowance.q Wrong side of the fabricw 1/8 (0.5 cm)e Heavy weight fabricr Fine and medium weight fabric

    x Place the fabric so that the needle just piercesthe folded edge when the needle comes overthe extreme left side.Lower the presser foot.

    c Turn the screw to align the guide on the footwith the folded edge so that the needle justpierces the fold.If the needle pierces too far left, move theguide slightly to the left.If the needle misses the fold, move the guideslightly to the right.Sew slowly while guiding the folded edgealong the guide.t Screwy Guideu Folded edge

    v Open and press the fabric after sewing isfinished.i Right side of the fabric

    NOTE:If the needle drops too far left, the stitches will beapparent on the right side of the fabric.

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    Decorative Satin StitchesMachine settingq Stitch pattern: Jw Stitch width: 3 5e Stitch length: 0.5 1r Thread tension: 1 4t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    SECTION 5. DECORATIVE STITCHES

    Determine the appropriate stitch density by testsewing.For a delicate appearance on fabric such aschiffon, use a single layer with a tear-awaybacking, if necessary. Reduce the needle threadtension slightly to achieve the better result.

    Decorative Stretch StitchesMachine settingq Stitch pattern: A Jw Stitch width: 5e Stitch length: S.S.r Thread tension: 1 4t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    Decorative stretch patterns are used for adding acreative and personalized touch to items.Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as thefabric moves back and forth.

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    SmockingMachine settingq Stitch pattern: Dw Stitch width: 5e Stitch length: S.S.r Thread tension: 1 4t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    Step 1:Choose a soft and lightweight fabric such asbatiste, gingham or challis. Cut the fabric threetimes wider than the project width.Increase the stitch length to 4 and loosenthread tension to 1. Sew rows of straightstitches 3/8 (1 cm) apart across the area to besmocked.

    q 3/8 (1 cm)

    Step 2:Knot the threads along one end. From the otherend, pull the bobbin threads to distribute gathersevenly and secure the threads.Return the thread tension to the original setting.

    Sew rows of the smocking stitch between thegathering stitches.Remove the gathering stitches after finished.

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    Pin Tucking

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Aw Stitch width: 0 or 5e Stitch length: 1.5 3r Thread tension: 2 6t Presser foot: Blind hemming foot G

    Fold a fabric wrong side together and Lower theneedle into the fabric 0.1 0.2 cm inside thefolded edge.Lower the foot and turn the screw to align theguide on the foot with the folded edge.Sew slowly while guiding the folded edge alongthe guide.Open the fabric and iron press the tucks.

    q Screww Guidee Folded edge

    Shell Tucking

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Gw Stitch width: 5e Stitch length: 2 3r Thread tension: 6 8t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    Use a lightweight fabric (tricot, for example).Fold and stitch on the bias.When the needle swings to the right, allow theneedle to just clear the folded edge of the fabric.After stitching, open the fabric and iron press thetucks flat to one side.

    NOTE:Increase the needle thread tension to formprominent tucks.

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    Fagoting

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Hw Stitch width: 3 5e Stitch length: 1 3r Thread tension: 1 4t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric tocreate an open work appearance, and add designinterest.Fold under each fabric edge 1/2 (1.3 cm) andpress.Pin the two edges to a piece of paper or tear-away backing 1/8 (0.3 cm) apart.

    q Paper

    Sew slowly, guiding the fabric so the needlecatches the folded edge on each side.Tear away the backing after sewing is finished.

    Patchwork

    Machine settingq Stitch pattern: Dw Stitch width: 5e Stitch length: 1 3r Thread tension: 1 4t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

    Place two layers of the fabric with the right sidetogether. Seam along the edges with the straightstitch.Open fabrics flat and fold each seam allowances.

    Place the fabric under the foot so that the seamline matches the center of the foot width.Lower the foot and sew the pattern along theseam line.

    q Right side of the fabric

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    SECTION 6. CARE ANDMAINTENANCE

    WARNING:Turn the power switch off and unplug themachine before cleaning.

    NOTE:Do not dismantle the machine in any way otherthan what is explained in this section.

    Clean the outside of the machine with a softcloth and mild soap.

    Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs

    z Remove the presser foot and needle.Remove screw on the needle plate with thescrewdriver.Remove the needle plate and take out thebobbin.q Screw

    x Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it.w Bobbin holder

    c Brush out dust and lint. Wipe the bobbinholder with a soft, dry cloth.

    v Clean the feed dogs and hook race with thelint brush.e Lint brushr Feed dogs

    b Wipe the hook race with a soft, dry cloth.t Hook race

    NOTE:You may also use a vacuum cleaner.

  • 33

    Replacing the Light Bulb

    WARNING:When replacing the bulb, switch off and unplugthe machine.Wait for the light bulb to cool down beforetouching it.

    Remove the cap and screw. Remove the faceplate.

    q Capw Screwe Face plate

    Push and turn the bulb counterclockwise toremove it.Push and turn the bulb clockwise to replace it.

    r Light bulb

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    Replacing the Bobbin Holder

    z Insert the bobbin holder into the hook race.

    x Make sure the knob of the bobbin holder fitsnext to the stopper on the race.q Knobw Stopper

    c Replace the bobbin.Attach the needle plate, inserting the twoguide pins into the holes in the needle plate.Tighten the screw firmly with the screwdriver.e Guide holesr Screw

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    Condition Cause Reference

    The needle breaks.

    Skipped stitches

    Seam puckering

    The cloth is not fedsmoothly.

    The needle threadbreaks.

    The bobbin threadbreaks.

    1. The needle thread is not threaded properly.2. The needle thread tension is too tight.3. The needle is bent or blunt.4. The needle is incorrectly inserted.5. The needle thread and the bobbin thread are not drawn to

    the rear and set properly under the presser foot whenstarting sewing.

    6. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished.7. The thread is too heavy or too fine for the needle.

    1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbinholder.

    2. Lint has collected in the bobbin holder.3. The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly.4. The thread is wound loosely on the bobbin.

    1. Needle is incorrectly inserted.2. The needle is bent or blunt.3. The needle clamp screw is loose.4. A proper foot is not used.5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished.6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn.

    1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.2. The needle is bent or blunt.3. The needle and/or thread are not suitable for the fabric

    being sewn.4. A blue tip needle is not used for sewing stretch, very fine

    fabrics and synthetics.5. The needle thread is not threaded properly.6. A poor quality needle is used.

    1. The needle thread tension is too tight.2. The needle thread is not threaded properly.3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn.4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric.* Use a stabilizer for very fine fabrics.

    1. The feed dog is packed with lint.2. The stitches are too fine.3. The feed dog was not raised after being lowered.4. The foot pressure is not adjusted properly.

    Page 11Page 15Page 7Page 7

    Page 16Page 16Page 7

    Page 10Page 32Replace the bobbinRe-wind the bobbin.

    Page 7Page 7Page 7Use proper foot.Page 16Page 7

    Page 7Page 7

    Page 7

    Page 7Page 11Replace the needle

    Page15Page 11Page 7Make stitch shorter

    Page 32Make stitch longerPage 5Page 5

    The buttonhole isnot sewn well.

    The machine doesnot work.

    Patterns are distorted.

    1. The machine is not plugged in.2. Thread is caught in the hook race.3. The handwheel is pulled for bobbin winding.

    1. The stitch is not balanced.

    1. The stitch density is not suitable for the fabric being sewn.2. Interfacing is not being used with stretch fabrics.

    Page 4Page 32Page 9

    Page 14

    Page 22Page Use interfacing

    Troubleshooting

    The needle threadloops.

    1. The needle thread tension is too loose.2. The needle size is not suitable for the thread.

    Page 15Page 7

    Noisy operation 1. The feed dog is packed with lint.2. Lint has collected in the bobbin holder.

    Page 32Page 32

  • 507-800-XXX (EN)

    Printed in Thailand