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    Color Manual

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    Table of Contents

    1 Discover Kenra Color

    pages 2 - 3

    2 Hair fundamentalspages 4 - 7

    3 Kenra Colorpages 8 - 12

    4 Permanent Colorpages 13 - 21

    5 Demi-permanent Color

    pages 22 - 25

    6 Color Supportpages 26 - 28

    7 Technical Application Reference

    pages 29 - 30

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    DISCOVER KENRA COLOR ®

    A COLOR PALETTE WITH NO BOUNDARIES

    Kenra Color®

    from Kenra Professional®

    makes it easierthan ever to achieve Simply Stunning Results ®. This high-

    performance, straightforward and easy-to-use haircolor

    line produces consistent, reliable results that stylists can

    count on. Kenra Color is committed to providing you all

    the tools needed for true-to-tone haircolor solutions on

    every client, every time.

    For high performance, Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5 ®, our proprietary blend of

    ve essential haircolor attributes designed to meet the needs of stylists and clients alike. We are

    committed to providing each of your clients with results that far exceed their expectations.

    Kenra Color is supported by an education platform ensuring straightforward, easy-to-use haircolorthat is infused with artistic inuence and inspiration. Ease meets artistry through our unique haircolor

    fundamentals including the Five Step Approach to Color Formulation and Elements of Design, our

    signature guide to haircolor application.

    The Kenra Color portfolio includes both Permanent and Demi-permanent offerings, each with a

    balanced shade collection of warm and cool tones that are intermixable for basic to advanced color

    formulation. Kenra Color provides unlimited haircolor versatility allowing the stylist to be as technical

    or as creative as they want.

    Like Kenra ®, Kenra Platinum ® and Kenra Smooth ®, Kenra Color maintains our commitment to the

    professional beauty industry. We continue to deliver high-quality, performance-driven, professional

    haircare solutions to help deliver the results you and your clients have come to expect.

    Kenra Color ® Manual 1

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    KENRA COLOR FROM KENRA PROFESSIONAL

    Why Kenra Color?

    Kenra Color was developed with both the professional stylist and their clients in mind. This high-

    performance haircolor line produces consistent, reliable results that stylists can count on to provide

    true-to-tone haircolor solutions on every client, every time. You can color condently for Simply

    Stunning Results both you and your clients have come to expect.

    We know you have options when choosing a color line. We have worked hard to develop a system

    that not only meets your needs, but far exceeds your expectations.

    Performance – Our product offers consistent, reliable, true-to-tone haircolor solutions to meet all of

    your haircoloring needs. Kenra Color provides vibrant, long-lasting color and outstanding coverage

    and color saturation ensuring full gray coverage. Our gentle formulation leaves your hair with

    improved condition and manageability, and intense shine.

    Ease of Use and Superior Education – Our education platform outlines our Five Steps to Color

    Formulation ensuring our system is straightforward and easy for you to use. Kenra Professional will

    continue to provide the same level of superior education, training and customer support that you’ve

    come to expect.

    Artistic Inuence – Ease meets artistry through Elements of Design, Kenra Color’s signature guide

    to haircolor application. It supports the Five Steps or Less Approach to Haircolor Application and

    unites inspiration and formulation with technical application.

    Value – Professional haircolor services remain the largest and most powerful category for growth.

    Kenra Color provides unparalleled value and will positively impact your bottom line while providing

    an incredible value for your client.

    Versatility – Kenra Color provides all the tools needed to be as technical or as creative as you want

    offering a newfound freedom to create customary looks for each and every one of your clients.

    Kenra Color is truly a color palette with no boundaries.

    What is Kenra Color?

    Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5, a proprietary blend of ve essential

    haircolor attributes.

    1. Vibrant, long-lasting color2. Intense shine

    3. Improved condition and manageability

    4. Gentle formulation

    5. Outstanding coverage and

    color saturation

    1 Discover Kenra Color

    2

    Notes

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 3

    Discover Kenra Co

    Kenra Color Portfolio

    The Kenra Color portfolio provides you all the tools needed for consistent, reliable, true-to-tone

    haircolor solutions. Whether you are just starting your career or you are an experienced colorist,

    we’re condent Kenra Color will give you the versatility to create Simply Stunning Results.

    Our portfolio includes:

    - Permanent Coloring Cremes in a gentle, low-ammonia formulation available in a wide array

    of warm and cool tones that deliver vibrant, long-lasting results and outstanding coverage

    and color saturation including full gray coverage

    - Demi-permanent Coloring Cremes formulated without ammonia providing an

    extremely gentle formulation for improved condition and manageability with intense shine

    - A Permanent Blonding Category including a variety of offerings such as our Kenra ColorLightener Collection, High Lift Series and the extremely versatile Blonding Creme

    - Permanent Color Boosters available in ve shades designed to increase color vibrancy

    or give special effects to any Kenra Color Permanent formulation

    - Demi-permanent Rapid Toners available in four no ammonia shades designed to

    process and tone in 5 minutes or less

    - Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes available in three shades for use in color corrective services to

    replace underlying pigments prior to Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent coloring

    - A Color Correcting System to gently, quickly and safely remove oxidative pigments

    - A variety of Color Support Tools including Porosity Equalizing Spray and Stain Removing Wipes

    Notes

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    4

    2 Hair fundamentals

    Cuticle

    Cortex

    Medulla

    Cross-sectionof hair strand

    HAIR STRUCTURE

    The success of any haircolor service depends on the coloring products and techniques selected

    by the stylist, as well as understanding the physical nature of the hair itself. This section explores

    the fundamentals of hair – its structure and unique characteristics – and their role in the haircolor

    process. At Kenra Professional, we believe that understanding the structure of your client’s hair

    is just the beginning of the overall consultation process. Each strand of hair has three main

    components: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla.

    Cuticle

    The cuticle refers to the outside layer of the hair shaft. It is composed of transparent, overlapping

    and protective scale-like cells. The cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair. A healthy, at

    cuticle layer promotes strength, shine and the overall appearance of the hair.

    Cortex

    The cortex is the center part of the hair and makes up the majority of the hair shaft. It gives thehair its special qualities such as elasticity and curl. The cortex is packed with strands of keratin

    that lie along the length of the hair. Oxidative pigments are developed or oxidized in the cortex

    with permanent and demi-permanent haircolor.

    Medulla

    Finally, the medulla is the canal-shaped innermost part of human hair. It has no known

    function and not all hair contains a medulla.

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 5

    Hair fundamenta

    NotesHAIR CHARACTERISTICS

    Texture

    Texture is the diameter of the individual hair strand. Determining hair texture by touching and visually

    examining it tells you what the hair can and cannot do on its own. Texture is generally referred to as

    ne, medium or coarse.

    Density

    The density of the hair is determined by the number of active hair follicles per square inch on thescalp and determines how much color mixture is needed for the color service. It can inuence the

    look of color because it affects the way light is reected or absorbed.

    Fine Medium Coarse

    Thin Medium Thick

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    Low porosity High porosity

    6

    2 Hair fundamentals - continued

    Straight hair begins with a straight hair

    follicle and has a sphere-shaped hair

    strand. It is generally more reective

    because of its solid, smooth surface.

    Wavy hair begins with a curve in the

    hair follicle and has an oval-shaped

    hair strand. It can absorb light andmay look less reective.

    Curly hair begins as a curved hair

    follicle and has a at/oval-shaped

    hair strand. It can absorb light and

    may look less reective.

    Follicle Shape Hair Pattern Color Reection

    DID YOU KNOW?Using Kenra Color Porosity

    Equalizing Spray prior toPermanent or Demi-permanentcolor services ensures evenpigment absorption on hairwith uneven or high porosity.

    Porosity

    Porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb and hold liquids. Some factors that contribute to hair’s

    porosity include past chemical services, environmental damage and mechanical (hot tools and

    brushing/combing) damage. Accurately judging the hair’s porosity is critical for color and developerselection. All haircolor durability is related to the porosity of the hair, which is usually described as

    low, average, or high. Low porosity may cause the hair to absorb color at a slower rate whereas high

    porosity absorbs color quickly and also tends to fade away more readily.

    Formation

    Hair formation refers to its shape and pattern. It can inuence the look of color because it affects

    the way light is reected or absorbed. Forms of hair are described as straight, wavy or curly.DID YOU KNOW?Wavy or curly hair can lookless reective because it canabsorb light and color. Createthe perfect canvas for a KenraColor service by offeringthese types of clients a KenraSmooth service. What’s more,complete both services in onesalon visit, saving time for yourclient and creating a greaterrevenue opportunity for you,the stylist.

    Notes

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 7

    Hair fundamenta

    NotesHAIRCOLOR FUNDAMENTALS

    Pigment Types

    Direct Dyes – These are color pigments that can actually

    be seen. They do not require an oxidative agent (hydrogen

    peroxide). Direct dye pigments are typically larger and

    remain on the outer portion of the hair shaft. They can have

    a staining effect on the hair.

    Indirect Dyes – These are also called oxidative or

    intermediate dyes. They require an oxidative agent such as

    hydrogen peroxide to develop the pigments. The pigments

    oxidize within the cortex of the hair shaft.

    Semi-permanent

    Demi-permanent

    Permanent

    No

    Yes

    Yes

    Haircolor Categories

    Haircolor type Oxidativeagent

    Ammonia

    None

    None

    Usually containssome amount ofammonia.

    Coats the cuticleand penetratesthe outer layerof the cortex.

    Penetratesthe cuticle andmultiple layersof the cortex.

    Fully penetratesthe cortex. After thecolor is oxidized,the cuticle closesand the color staysinside which givesthe hair its new color.

    Uses large, directdyes and doesnot alter naturalpigment.

    Can be acombination ofdirect and indirectpigments and isdeposit only.Fades graduallyand washes outto the original colorof the hair.

    Permanently altersthe hair shaftand can causemovement or liftof natural melaninand deposit in oneprocess.

    Colorpenetration

    Chemical hairchange

    Hair Strand

    Indirect Dyes

    Direct Dyes

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    8

    3 Kenra Color

    THE LAW OF COLOR

    Primary Colors – Three colors that make up all other

    colors (yellow, red, blue).

    Secondary colors – A mix of two primary colors

    (orange, violet, green).

    Tertiary colors – A mix of a primary color and a

    secondary color (yellow orange, red orange, red violet,

    blue violet, blue green, yellow green).

    Complementary colors – Colors found opposite of

    each other on the color wheel. In haircolor, they have

    several important functions:

    - They neutralize or cancel out the other one when they are mixed

    together, and produce a neutral color, such as dark gray or brown

    - They neutralize any unwanted tones in the hair. For example, a blue-based

    color eliminates unwanted orange tones

    - They also complement each other when placed side by side

    Kenra Color Level System

    The Kenra Color Level System denotes the degree of darkness

    or lightness of the hair. It ranges from 1-10 with 1 representing

    the darkest form of brown (referred to as Black) and 10indicating the lightest (referred to as Extra Light Blonde).

    Note: This system does not observe level two because

    levels below three are difcult to differentiate to the

    human eye.

    Kenra Color Shade Identier

    The Kenra Color shade identier is easy to read and follows astandard numerical and alphabetical identication system.

    Number = Level Identication

    First Letter = Dominant Color Reection

    Second Letter = Secondary Color Reection

    Level

    10 Extra Light Blonde

    09 Light Blonde08 Blonde

    07 Medium Blonde

    06 Dark Blonde

    05 Light Brown

    04 Medium Brown

    03 Dark Brown

    01 Black

    Level

    Dominant Color

    SecondaryReection

    Notes

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 9

    Shades and Tones

    Kenra Color offers a variety of shade families in a balanced collection of warm and cool tones to meet

    the needs of any client. Each shade series allows for ease of mixing and delivers intense shine and

    maximum coverage.

    Natural: Combination of the three primary colors calibrated at the designated

    level to achieve full gray coverage (Permanent) and natural gray coverage up to

    75% (Demi-permanent). The proper amount of the Natural Series should be added

    into any formulation to achieve gray coverage (see Gray Coverage chart).

    Natural Ash: Calibrated at each level to optimize gray coverage and neutralize

    warmth. Covers and blends gray while controlling underlying pigment in

    a single process.

    Ash: Neutralizes unwanted warmth to produce a cooler end result.

    The Ash Series is formulated to neutralize underlying pigment.

    Ash Ash: Increased ash pigments for added neutralization

    of unwanted warm tones.

    Silver Metallic: Cool blue tones supported by blue violet secondary reection.

    Brown/Beige: Warm reective brown tones from levels 4-7

    and beige tones for levels 8-10.

    Brown Copper: Warm brown dominant tones supported

    by copper secondary reection.

    Gold: Adds warmth to any color, increased light reection and a natural gold tonality.

    Gold Brown/Beige: Dominant gold tones with secondary brown undertones.

    Copper: Brilliant warm red / orange tones.

    Copper Gold: Dominant reective copper tones with secondary gold reection.

    Red: True red tones for maximum vibrancy.

    Red Red: Superior vibrancy and pure red end results.

    Red Brown: Dominant red tones supported by secondary reection of brown.

    Red Copper: Dominant red tones supported by copper undertones for vibrancy.

    Violet Red: Dominant violet tones supported by red undertones for cool vibrancy at darker levels.

    Red Violet: Dominant red tones supported by cool violet undertones.

    Violet: Pale violet tone to reduce or tone unwanted yellow.

    Pearl Violet: Combination of blue violet and violet tones to neutralize unwanted yellow-gold tones.

    Kenra Col

    Notes

    Shade Chart

    N Natural

    NA Natural Ash

    A Ash

    AA Ash Ash

    SM Silver Metallic

    B Brown / Beige

    BC Brown Copper

    G Gold

    GB Gold Brown / Beige

    C Copper

    CG Copper Gold

    R Red

    RR Red Red

    RB Red Brown

    RC Red Copper

    VR Violet Red

    RV Red Violet

    V Violet

    PV Pearl Violet

    Clear Gloss (no pigment)

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    10

    3 Kenra Color - continued

    4BP/D

    7BP/D

    5BP/D

    8BP/D

    10BP/D

    6BP

    BROWN

    7BCP/D

    4BCP

    6BCP/D

    BROWN COPPER

    8CP/D

    8CGP

    9CGP

    5CP/D

    5CGP/D

    6CP/D

    7CGP/D

    COPPER GOLDCOPPER

    7GP

    9GBP/D

    10GBP

    5GP

    5GBP

    8GP/D

    6GP/D

    8GBP/D

    9GP

    10GD

    GOLD BROWNGOLD

    NATURAL

    1NP/D

    5NP/D

    8NP/D

    3NP/D

    6NP/D

    9NP/D

    4NP/D

    7NP/D

    10NP/D

    6AA P

    7AA P

    8AA P

    AS H AS H

    10SMP

    7SMP

    8SMP

    SILVER METALLIC

    7NAP/D

    8NAP/D

    5NAP/D

    6NAP/D

    NATURAL ASH

    5NBP/D

    6NBP

    7NBP/D

    NATURAL BROWN

    4A P/D

    1A D

    7A P/D

    5A P

    8A P

    6A P/D

    9A P

    10A P/D

    AS H

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 11

    4RP/D

    7RP

    7RRP

    5RP

    4RRP/D

    6RP/D

    6RRP/D

    RED REDRE D

    6RBP

    7RBP/D

    5RCP

    4RBP

    6RCP/D

    5RBP/D

    RED BROWN RED COPPER

    GoldNatural

    PNatural

    P

    BlondingCreme

    P

    Pearl Ash

    P Ash

    P

    HIGH LIFT

    GCD

    VPD

    SVD

    CRD

    RAPID TONER

    GlossD

    CLEAR

    3RVP

    5RVP

    6RVP

    RED VIOLET

    3VRP/D

    5VRP/D

    VI OL ET RE D

    Kenra Col

    9PVD

    PEARL VI OL ET

    10VD

    VI OL ET

    KENRA COLOR SHADE CHART

    P = Permanent

    D = Demi-permanent

    VioletP

    CopperP

    RedP

    GoldP

    BlueP

    BOOSTER

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    12

    3 Kenra Color - continued

    REMEMBER All of our Kenra Color techniques

    utilize Elements of Design andcan be completed in 5 steps orless. You have access to all ofour application guides and ourlatest artistic collections onlineat kenracolor.com .

    Notes

    ELEMENTS OF DESIGN

    Elements of Design is Kenra Color’s signature guide to haircolor application. It supports our 5 Steps

    or Less Approach to Haircolor Application and unites inspiration and formulation with technical

    application. For Kenra Color, it’s truly where ease meets artistry.

    Foundation Color: Primary overall color; incorporates 75% or more of total color.

    Anchor Color: Supportive color designed to inuence contrast of the Foundation Color and

    is usually within 1 to 2 levels of the Foundation Color.

    Accent Color: Emphasis colors to draw the eye to a particular area creating contrast

    and can be used as both a highlight and lowlight.

    Foundation Color

    Anchor Color

    Accent Color

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 13

    4 Permanent Color

    KENRA COLOR PERMANENT PORTFOLIO

    Gentle, low-ammonia color available in a wide array of multi-

    dimensional tones that deliver consistent, reliable results.

    1. Features Balancing Complex 5

    2. Provides vibrant, long lasting results

    3. Full gray coverage

    4. Intense shine

    Permanent Coloring Creme and Developer

    Kenra Color Permanent Coloring Creme Developers were

    specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Permanent

    Coloring Cremes. Available in 10 Volume (3%), 20 Volume (6%),

    30 Volume (9%), and 40 Volume (12%) strengths to ensure proper

    lift of natural hair and oxidation of dye intermediates. Creamy

    consistency allows for precise application for all of your haircolor needs. Our standard mixing ratio

    and processing time for Kenra Color Permanent Color is one part Permanent Coloring Creme plus

    one part Developer (1:1) for 30 minutes at room temperature. If you are processing gray hair, mixing

    ratio remains the same; however, you will want to process up to 40 minutes.

    Developer

    10 Volume (3%)

    20 Volume (6%)

    30 Volume (9%)

    40 Volume (12%)

    Levels of Lift

    Tone-on-tone / deposit only*

    1 level of lift / deposit / gray coverage*

    2–3 levels of lift*

    3–4 levels of lift*

    *Based on texture, density, and porosity.

    1 + 1

    KENRA COLOR PERMANENT COLOR MIXING RATIOOne part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1)

    Processing Time 30 Minutes

    Processing Time for Gray Coverage Up to 40 Minutes

    REMEMBERKenra Color does not

    recommend the use of a dryer,steamer or accelerator dropsfor processing.

    Notes

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    14

    4 Permanent Color - continued

    REMEMBERThe nal result of any haircolor

    service relies on a blend ofthe color selected by thestylist and the contribution ofunderlying pigment.

    Underlying Pigment

    Underlying pigment refers to the undertones that are exposed anytime natural haircolor is lifted.

    Generally, this affects the outcome of a color formulation when there is lifting of two or more levels

    and the volume of developer selected affects underlying pigment exposed in the lifting process. Itis often necessary to add a neutralizing color into a formulation to ensure control of an unwanted

    underlying pigment. Use this cart to determine what underlying pigment will be exposed at the level

    you are coloring to and what neutralizing color can benet your color formulation.

    Level

    10 Extra Light Blonde

    09 Light Blonde

    08 Blonde

    07 Medium Blonde

    06 Dark Blonde

    05 Light Brown

    04 Medium Brown

    03 Dark Brown

    01 Black

    Underlying Pigment

    Pale Yellow

    Yellow Gold

    Light Gold

    Gold

    Gold Orange

    Orange

    Dark Orange

    Red Orange

    Darkest Red Orange

    Neutralizing Color

    Ash, Violet or Silver Metallic

    Ash or Pearl Violet

    Ash or Silver Metallic

    Ash or Silver Metallic

    Ash

    Ash

    Ash

    N/A

    N/A

    Gray Coverage

    Gray hair is typically more

    resistant to coloration

    because it has a harder

    cuticle layer. It is often

    thought to be very healthyand void of all natural

    pigment, but in reality, gray

    hair is the lightest form of the three primary colors and requires increased pigmentation for coverage.

    Kenra Color Permanent Natural Series provides the essential balance of pigments to ensure even

    color saturation and maximum pigment uptake and should be incorporated into all gray coverage

    formulations for full gray coverage. Mixing ratio remains at one part Permanent Coloring Creme plus

    one part Developer (1:1); however, suggested processing time is up to 40 minutes.

    % of Gray

    25%

    50%

    50–100%*

    % of Natural Series

    25%

    50%

    75%

    % of Desired Color

    75%

    50%

    25%*When hair is 80% gray or more, 20 Volume Developer is recommended.

    Notes

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 15

    Permanent Col

    5 EASY STEPS TO COLOR FORMULATION

    Kenra Color streamlines the art of haircolor formulation with ve easy steps that provide

    consistent, reliable results on every client, every time.

    Step 1: Determine the natural level of the hair

    - Analyze the client’s natural level by holding the Natural Series swatches against the

    client’s regrowth area and determine which one achieves a blend of the same level.

    - Remember, you are only looking for the level of the natural hair, not the tonality.

    - If the natural hair level falls between two levels, choose the lighter level when depositing

    color (going darker), or the darker level when lifting color (going lighter).

    Step 2: Determine the desired level / desired tone- Select the appropriate color shade utilizing your swatchbook for reference.

    Step 3: Dene levels of lift, deposit, or tonal change

    - Use the developer / levels of lift chart to determine the Developer required to ensure proper

    lifting during the coloring process.

    Step 4: Determine the percentage of gray

    - Identify the correct percentage of gray to assess how much of the Kenra Color Natural Series

    should be incorporated into the formulation. Reference our gray coverage chart.

    - When hair is 80% gray or more, a 20 Volume Developer is recommended.

    - The recommended processing time is up to 40 minutes.

    Step 5: Identify the underlying pigment

    - Determine the underlying pigment at the desired level you are coloring to.

    - Assess whether it will enhance the desired color shade and tone or if you will need

    to add a neutralizing color to the formulation to control the underlying pigment.

    Reference our underlying pigment chart.

    FINALIZE THE FORMULATION

    STEP 3STEP 1

    STEP 4

    STEP 2

    STEP 5

    Notes

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    16

    4 Permanent Color - continued

    STANDARD COLOR FORMULATION EXAMPLES

    EXAMPLE 1: Lift

    The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter) with a rich brown tone.

    The client has 0% gray hair.

    Formulation Notes:

    1: The natural level is 4

    2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B

    3: The level of lift is 1

    4: The percentage of gray is 0

    5: The underlying pigment is not a factor

    (only one level of lift)

    Final Formulation:

    ______________________________________________________________________________________

    Recap: The natural level is a 4 with no gray. The desired level and tone is 5B. Because only

    one level of lift is required, the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying

    pigment does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is equal parts of Developer 20

    Volume and 5B. Processing time is 30 minutes.

    EXAMPLE 2: Deposit

    The client is a natural level 7. The desired level is 6RB (1 level darker) with a rich red brown tone.

    The client has 0% gray hair.

    Formulation Notes

    1: The natural level is 7

    2: The desired level / desired tone is 6RB

    3: The level of deposit is 1

    4: The percentage of gray is 0

    5: The underlying pigment is not a factor as color

    is being deposited, not lifted

    Final Formulation:

    ______________________________________________________________________________________

    Recap: The natural level is a 7 with no gray. The desired level and tone is 6RB. Because it is

    1 level darker, the formulation uses Developer 10 or 20 Volume and underlying pigment is not

    a factor. The mixing ratio is 1 part 6RB plus 1 part Developer 10 or 20 Volume. Processing

    time is 30 minutes.

    Notes

    Processing Time30 Minutes

    Processing Time30 Minutes

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 17

    Permanent Col

    EXAMPLE 3: Gray Coverage

    The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter) with a rich brown tone.

    The client has 50% gray hair.

    Formulation Notes:

    1: The natural level is 4

    2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B

    3: The level of lift is 1

    4: The percentage of gray is 50

    5: The underlying pigment is not a factor (only one level of lift)

    Final Formulation:

    ______________________________________________________________________________________

    Recap: The natural level is a 4 with 50% gray. The desired level and tone is 5B. Because only1 level of lift is required, the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying pigment

    does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is 1 part 5N plus 1 part 5B plus 2 parts

    Developer 20 Volume (See Gray Coverage chart). Processing time is 40 minutes.

    EXAMPLE 4: Underlying Pigment

    The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 7 (3 levels lighter) with a brown tone.

    The client has 0% gray hair.

    Formulation Notes

    1: The natural level is 4

    2: The desired level / desired tone is 7B3: The level of lift is 3

    4: The percentage of gray is 0

    5: The underlying pigment is gold

    Final Formulation:

    ______________________________________________________________________________________

    Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 7B. For three levels of lift, the formulation

    requires Developer 40 Volume. To balance the exposed gold underlying pigment, a neutralizing color

    (ash) is incorporated. The 7A helps to control the gold tones at a level 7 (See Underlying Pigment

    chart). The mixing ratio is 1 part 7A plus 1 part 7B plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume (Note: Theamount of the neutralizing color can vary as desired). Processing time is 30 minutes.

    Notes

    Processing Time30 Minutes

    Processing Time 40 Minutes

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    18

    4 Permanent Color - continued

    BLONDING WITH KENRA COLOR

    Kenra Color Lightener Collection

    Kenra Color offers two lightener

    options to meet the needs of

    stylists and clients alike. Kenra

    Color Lightener features a

    blue-violet base to help control

    unwanted warm tones when lifting

    and Kenra Color No Ammonia Lightener is a fragrance-free, white powder formulated without

    ammonia. Each dust-free lightener powder can remove natural or articial pigments, both indirect

    and direct to help eliminate unwanted tones such as ash or red and have a lifting strength of up to

    7 levels in a single application. Extremely versatile, each lightener can be applied both on and off

    the scalp with Kenra Color Permanent Developer 10 – 30 Volumes in different ratios for multiple

    blonding effects – 10 and 20 Volume on the scalp and 10, 20 and 30 Volume off the scalp. Each

    mixture’s creamy consistency retains moisture and is drip-free for ease of use.

    Developer Choices10 Volume (3%)

    20 Volume (6%)

    30 Volume (9%)

    ApplicationOn or off the scalp

    On or off the scalp

    Off the scalp

    DID YOU KNOW?Kenra Color Silver Metallics

    allow you to display yourartistic abilities, creating cool,silver appearances in lightercolored hair while helping toneutralize underlying pigment.

    Available in 7SM, 8SM and10SM and can be used onpre-lightened hair to achievea cool, silver result.

    Notes

    KENRA COLOR LIGHTENER COLLECTION MIXING RATIOOne level scoop plus one part Developer (up to 1:3)

    Processing Time Check result regularly during processing.Do not exceed 60 minutes.

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 19

    Permanent Col

    High Lift

    Kenra Color High Lift Series provides the ability to create superior single process blondes achieving

    4-5 levels of lift with maximum neutralization of underlying pigment. These four shades feature a

    specially developed base to support lighter lifting and neutralization of underlying pigment, eachproviding the same lifting strength with varying degrees of neutralization of underlying pigment.

    Achieve best results on level 6 and above, but the series can also be used on level 5 for a warmer

    end result. Our standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color High Lift is one part

    Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2) for 45 minutes at room temperature.

    Shade

    Gold Natural

    Natural

    Pearl Ash

    Ash

    Used on Natural Level

    Level 6

    Level 6

    Level 6

    Levels 5 or 6

    Developer Volume

    30 or 40

    30 or 40

    30 or 40

    30 or 40

    Timing

    45 Minutes

    45 Minutes

    45 Minutes

    45 Minutes

    End Result

    Golden Natural Blonde

    Natural Blonde

    Cooler Blonde

    Coolest Blonde

    Notes

    EXAMPLE: Standard Formulation

    The client is a natural level 6. The desired level is 10 (4 levels lighter) for a Golden Natural Blonde.

    The client has 0% gray hair.

    Formulation Notes:

    1: The natural level is 6

    2: The desired level / desired tone is 10 Golden Natural Blonde

    3: The level of lift is 4

    4: The percentage of gray is 0

    5: The underlying pigment is pale yellow

    Final Formulation:

    ______________________________________________________________________________________

    Recap: The natural level is 6. The desired level and tone is 10 Golden Natural Blonde. To achieve

    this level of lift, Developer 40 Volume is required to mix with the High Lift Gold Natural (See High

    Lift chart). The underlying pigment at a level 10 is pale yellow and is addressed with the pale blue

    violet neutralizing pigments. The mixing ratio is 1 part High Lift plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume.

    Processing time is 45 minutes.

    1 + 2

    KENRA COLOR PERMANENT HIGH LIFT MIXING RATIOOne part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2)

    Processing Time 45 Minutes

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    20

    4 Permanent Color - continued

    Blonding Creme

    Kenra Color Blonding Creme provides extra lifting support. It features

    the same specially developed base as the Kenra Color High Lift Series;

    however, it does not contain any neutralizing pigment, therefore it will havea warmer end result. Blonding Creme is extremely versatile and can be

    used for a couple key haircoloring needs. First, it can be used for natural

    accent effects, or highlights, when mixed one part Blonding Creme with two

    parts Developer (10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume). Second, Blonding Creme can be

    added into any Kenra Color Permanent formulation (up to ¼ of total color

    portion) for added lift, achieving ½ - 1 level of additional lift.

    Mixing Ratio Formula %

    1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme

    1 oz. Permanent Developer

    ¼ oz. Blonding Creme(up to ¼ of color portion)

    Blonding Creme

    For ½ - 1Level of Lift

    NaturalHighlighting

    1 oz. Blonding Creme

    2 oz. Permanent Developer

    EXAMPLE: Standard Formulation for adding Blonding Creme to a permanent color formulation

    The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 8 (4 levels lighter) with a copper tone. The client

    has 0% gray hair. The underlying pigment exposed is light gold at a level 8.

    Formulation Notes:

    1: The natural level is 4

    2: The desired level / desired tone is 8C3: The level of lift is 4

    4: The percentage of gray is 0

    5: The underlying pigment is light gold

    Final Formulation:

    ______________________________________________________________________________________

    Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 8C. To achieve this level of lift,

    Developer 40 Volume is required. ¼ ounce of Blonding Creme is added to 1 ounce of Permanent

    Coloring Creme for additional lift. The underlying pigment is light gold. The mixing ratio is 1 part

    8C plus 1 part Developer 40 Volume plus ¼ ounce Blonding Creme. Processing time is 30 minutes.

    Notes

    Processing Time

    for Lift 30 Minutes

    Processing Time forNatural Highlighting Up to 45 Minutes

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 21

    Permanent Col

    NotesColor Boosters

    Color Boosters are designed to create

    custom, signature color shades.

    They can be used in any Kenra ColorPermanent formulation for increased

    color vibrancy or as a stand alone

    shade for special effect coloring on pre-

    lightened hair. Available in ve shades,

    each formulated with specically

    balanced color dyes to make it easy

    to create signature haircolor or special

    effects. For increased color vibrancy,

    color boosters can be added into

    any of your Kenra Color Permanent

    formulations up to ¼ of your color

    portion. For special effects, or a standalone shade, our standard mixing

    ratio and processing time is one part

    Permanent Color Booster plus one part

    Developer (1:1) for 30 minutes at room

    temperature.

    BoosterShade

    GoldBlue

    Violet

    Copper

    Red

    Effect

    Additional gold reection to any levelBlue enhancement to level 5 and below

    Violet reection to level 6 and below

    Added copper reection to any level

    Enhanced red reection to levels 7 and below

    Mixing Ratio Formula

    1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme

    1 oz. Permanent Developer

    Add up to ¼ oz. Color Booster

    1 oz. Color Booster1 oz. Permanent Developer

    Apply to dry, previously lightened hair

    Booster Use

    For Increased Vibrancy

    Special Effects

    EXAMPLE: Increased Vibrancy

    The client is a natural level 5. The desired level is 6 (1 level lighter) with a vibrant

    copper tone. This client has 0% gray hair.

    Mixing Ratio:One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer 10–40V (1:1) plus

    Copper Booster above 1:1 mixing ratio.

    Formulation Notes:

    1: The natural level is 5

    2: The desired level / desired tone is 6C

    3: The level of lift is 1

    4: The percentage of gray is 0

    5: The underlying pigment is gold orange

    Final Formulation:

    ______________________________________________________________________________________

    Recap: Based on the natural level 5 hair, the Developer 20 Volume is needed to get 1 full level

    of lift. The underlying pigment from a level 5 to a level 6 is gold orange (Note: The underlying

    pigment does not need neutralization; it will add to the end result in a positive way). To achieve

    the intense copper tone, the Copper Booster is added to the overall formula. Processing time

    is 30 minutes.

    Processing Time forIncreased Vibrancy 30 Minutes

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    22

    5 Demi-permanent Color

    KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENTPORTFOLIO

    Deposit only color formulated without ammonia providing

    multiple service options for maximum creativity.

    1. Features Balancing Complex 5

    2. Formulated without ammonia

    3. Natural gray coverage up to 75%

    4. Provides vibrant, long lasting results

    5. Intense shine

    Kenra Color Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator

    was specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Demi-

    permanent Coloring Cremes allowing for complete oxidation

    of all pigments in each and every color formulation. Our

    standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color

    Demi-permanent Color is one part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus

    two parts Activator (1:2) for 5-25 minutes at room temperature.

    Notes

    1 + 2

    KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR MIXING RATIOOne part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts

    Activator (1:2)

    Processing Time Application5-25 Minutes Apply from scalp to ends

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 23

    Demi-permanent Co

    NotesKENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT SERVICE OPTIONS

    Kenra Color Demi-permanent provides you multiple service options allowing for

    maximum creativity and protability.

    Color Enhancing Service

    Offer a color enhancing service to enhance any natural color tone or deepen an existing

    color tone. First determine the client’s natural level, and then choose the appropriate tone

    to accentuate, neutralize or deepen. Use the standard Kenra Color Demi-permanent

    mixing ratio and processing time.

    Color Equalizing

    A color equalizing service is used anytime a client requires a permanent retouch service on

    their new growth and needs a corresponding formula to be used on the mid-shaft to ends.

    KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR MIXING RATIO1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme plus 1 oz. Developer1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus 2 oz. ActivatorNote: This service requires two separate formulations (Permanent and Demi-permanent)

    Processing Time Application15-25 Minutes Apply Permanent formula to new growth and process

    for 15 minutes. Then, apply Demi-permanent formulafrom mid-length to ends.

    Tips:- On porous hair, spray the ends with Kenra Color Porosity Equalizing Spray. Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme on mid-length and ends of hair.

    - Demi-permanent Clear can be added to any formulation to dilute the deposit amount of the pigment while providing maximum shine.

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    24

    5 Demi-permanent Color - continued

    DID YOU KNOW? A Clear Gloss Service is a

    great option to offer yourclient that regularly scheduleshaircuts only or for yourhighlighted blondes lookingfor increased shine.

    Notes

    Clear Glossing

    Clear Glossing services add intense shine and increase manageability for previously

    colored, lightened or highlighted hair. Kenra Color Demi-permanent Clear Gloss features

    Balancing Complex 5; however, this deposit-only formulation is clear so it can be used on

    any hair type or color for maximum shine and improved condition.

    Toning

    Toning Services are recommended to tone

    unwanted warmth for highlighted or previouslylightened hair and can take as little as

    ve minutes at the shampoo bowl. Shade

    selections are available in warm and cool

    options each ensuring maximum shine and

    condition on any pre-lightened hair.

    Gray Blending

    The Kenra Color Demi-permanent line delivers natural gray coverage up to 75% in a no ammonia

    formulation. This is the perfect suggestion for clients who do not want to commit to a permanent

    haircolor. Formulating with the Natural or Natural Ash Series ensures optimal gray coverage.

    Toning Service

    Warm Blonde Toning

    Cool / Pastel Blonde Toning

    Natural Blonde Toning

    Beige / Blonde Toning

    Shade Selections

    10G / 8C / 8G

    10A / 10V / 9PV

    8GB / 9GB

    10B / 8B

    1 + 1

    KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENTGRAY BLENDING MIXING RATIONatural Series - One part combination of desired Demi-permanentColoring Creme shade and Natural Series plus one part Demi-permanent Activator (1:1)

    Natural Ash Series - One part desired Natural Ash Demi-permanentColoring Creme shade plus one part Demi-permanent Activator (1:1)

    Processing Time ApplicationUp to 25 Minutes Apply to dry hair

    1 + 2

    KENRA COLOR CLEAR GLOSSING SERVICE MIXING RATIOOne part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts

    Activator (1:2)

    Processing Time ApplicationUp to 25 Minutes Apply glossing formula to freshly

    shampooed and conditioned towel-dried hair

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    Rapid Toners / Dimensional Toning

    In addition to Kenra Color Demi-permanent Toning services,

    Kenra Color also offers Demi-permanent Rapid Toners designed

    to process and tone in 5 minutes or less. These no ammonia,deposit-only colors have been formulated to enhance blonde

    levels 8, 9 and 10 or to be a multi-dimensional tone refresher for

    any haircolor. They offer versatility for adding multi-dimensional

    tones in four warm or cool shades.

    Kenra Color ® Manual 25

    Demi-permanent Co

    Rapid Toner Shade

    Golden Copper

    Copper Red

    Violet Pearl

    Silver Violet

    Effect

    Toning with a gold copper reection and result

    Toning with a copper red reection and result

    Toning with a violet pearl reection and result

    Toning with a silver violet reection and result

    Notes

    1 + 2

    KENRA COLOR RAPID TONERS / DIMENSIONALTONING MIXING RATIO1 oz. Demi-permanent Rapid Toner Coloring Creme plus2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator

    Processing Time Application5 Minutes or less Apply from scalp to ends to freshly

    shampooed and conditioned towel-dried hair

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    26

    6 Color Support

    Notes Color Corrective Services

    Color Corrector

    The Color Correcting System gently, quickly and safely

    removes oxidative pigments without disturbing the

    natural pigments in the hair. Its two-part, non-bleach

    formulation mixes into an easy-to-apply cream and

    can be used with or without heat. The removal process

    can be repeated up to a total of three times and a color

    service can be performed immediately after the color

    correcting process.

    KENRA COLOR COLOR CORRECTOR SYSTEM MIXING RATIO

    One part Lotion 1 plus one part Lotion 2 mixed in equal parts

    Processing Time Application 20 Minutes Apply to dry hair and process under heat or at room temperature

    Technical Application

    1. Perform a strand test for accuracy and capability to remove unwanted color.

    2. In a non-metallic bowl or mixing bottle, mix one part Lotion 1 with one part Lotion 2 (mixing ratio

    1:1). The total amount of mixture required depends on the length of the hair that needs correction.

    3. Apply a plastic cap over hair and process 20 minutes. (Heat option: Place under medium

    heat to accelerate the process. Check periodically.)

    4. Rinse hair thoroughly. Cleanse hair with an appropriate shampoo - Kenra Clarifying Shampoo

    is recommended. Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator or Permanent

    Coloring Creme Developer 10 Volume to the hair for 3 minutes to neutralize. Rinse thoroughly.

    5. If sufcient color has not been removed or if the haircolor has become darker, repeat the process

    on damp, towel-dried hair. You can reapply color corrector up to 3 times in one day.

    6. Shampoo and condition thoroughly. An appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner are

    recommended. Dry the hair and proceed with your Kenra Color application.

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 27

    Color Suppo

    NotesPre-Pigment Coloring Cremes

    Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes are designed for use in color

    corrective services to gently replace underlying pigments prior to

    Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent coloring and are idealfor achieving results two or more levels darker than existing level.

    These color cremes are specically formulated to mix with water

    for proper oxidation of the pigments and ideal product viscosity.

    Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes support the consistent,

    reliable results of Balancing Complex 5 and are available in three

    intermixable shades to meet your color corrective needs.

    - Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Red: when

    coloring with all red or violet shades and

    when coloring back using dark natural

    shades (levels 1 - 3)

    - Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Copper: when

    coloring with all copper shades and

    when coloring back using medium

    natural shades (levels 3 - 6)

    - Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Gold: when

    coloring with all golden shades and

    when coloring back using light natural

    shades (levels 6 - 8)

    1 + 1

    KENRA COLOR PRE-PIGMENT MIXING RATIOOne part Pre-Pigment Coloring Creme plus one part water

    Processing Time Application10 Minutes Spray hair with Kenra Color Porosity

    Equalizing Spray and apply pre-pigmentcolor. Towel blot excess Pre-PigmentColoring Creme from hair. Apply desiredKenra Color Permanent or KenraColor Demi-permanent formulation.

    Level Pale Yellow

    10 Pale Yellow09 Yellow Gold

    08 Light Gold

    07 Gold

    06 Gold Orange

    05 Orange

    04 Dark Orange

    03 Red Orange

    01 Darkest Red Orange

    Pre-Pigment Creme

    NoneNone

    Gold

    Gold

    Gold and Copper

    Copper

    Copper

    Copper and Red or Red

    Red

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    28

    6 Color Support - continued

    Notes Color Support Products

    Kenra Color offers a range of Color Support Products to maximize your

    color experience and ensure Simply Stunning Results. Each of these tools

    can be incorporated into any Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent

    color service.

    Porosity Equalizing Spray

    Porosity Equalizing Spray ensures even pigment absorption on hair with

    uneven or high porosity. This gentle, lightweight formula also assists in

    conditioning and detangling the hair and is designed for use prior to a

    Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent color service.

    POROSITY EQUALIZING SPRAY

    Application

    Spray in sections and comb through for even distribution.

    For ne hair, select 1” sections. For medium hair, select ½”

    sections. For thick hair, select ¼” sections.

    Stain Removing Wipes

    Stain Removing Wipes gently remove unwanted color on the

    skin that may occur during color services. Formulated with

    Aloe Vera to provide gentle use on all skin types.

    STAIN REMOVING WIPES

    Application

    Open the package and remove the wipe. Gently

    massage over the stain on the skin to remove color.

    Follow with a damp cloth.

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    Kenra Color ® Manual 29

    Notes

    7 Technical Application Reference

    Kenra Color makes it easier than ever to achieve Simply Stunning Results. Reference our

    technical application section for a synopsis of Kenra Color Permanent and Demi-permanent

    service options with related technical support.

    Kenra Color Permanent Service Options

    Services Formulation

    Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every PermanentColor Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair.

    Formulation:One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1)Processing time: 30 Minutes, up to 40 Minutes processing time for gray coverage

    PermanentColoring Cremeand Developer

    Lightener

    Color Boosters

    High Lift

    Formulation:One level scoop plus one part Developer (up to 1:3)Processing time: Check result regularly during processing, do not exceed 60 minutes

    Formulation:One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2)Processing time: 45 Minutes

    Blonding Creme Formulations:For ½ - 1 Level of Lift, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developer and¼ oz. Blonding Creme (up to ¼ of color portion).For Natural Highlighting, mix 1 oz. Blonding Creme and 2 oz. Permanent Developer.Processing time: 30 Minutes for Lift, up to 45 Minutes for natural highlighting

    Formulations:

    For increased vibrancy, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developerand add up to ¼ oz. Color Booster.For special effects, mix 1 oz. Color Booster and 1 oz. Permanent Developer.Processing time: 30 Minutes for increased vibrancy

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    30

    Notes

    7 Technical Application Reference - continued

    Toning withRapid Toners

    Formulation:1 oz. Rapid Toner Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent ActivatorApplication: Apply to freshly shampooed and conditioned damp hair.Processing time: 5 Minutes or less

    Services Formulation

    Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every Demi-permanentColor Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair.

    Formulation:1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent ActivatorApplication: Apply formula from scalp to endsProcessing time: Up to 25 Minutes

    Enhancing

    Equalizing

    Toning

    Gray Blending

    Formulation:1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme + 1 oz. Developer1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. ActivatorNote: This service requires two separate formulations (Permanent and Demi-permanent)

    Application:> Apply Permanent formula to new growth for 15 minutes> Then apply Demi-permanent formula from mid-length to endsProcessing time: 15-25 Minutes

    Formulations:Natural Series: 1 oz. Combination of desired shade and Natural Series+ 1 oz. Demi-permanent ActivatorNatural Ash Series: 1 oz. Natural Ash Series + 1 oz. Demi-permanent ActivatorApplication: Apply formula to dry hairProcessing time: Up to 25 Minutes

    Clear Glossing Formulation:1 oz. Demi-permanent Clear + 2 oz. Demi-permanent ActivatorApplication: Apply to dry or towel-dried hairProcessing time: Up to 25 Minutes

    Formulation:1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator

    Application: Apply toning formula to freshly shampooed and conditioned hairProcessing time: 5-25 Minutes

    Kenra Color Demi-permanent Service Options

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    Notes

    Kenra Color ® Manual 31

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    32

    Notes

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    KENRA COLOR

    Need more information?

    We are here to help.

    (800) 930-7777

    [email protected]

    kenracolor.com

    A color palette with no boundaries

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