kuala lumpur, melaka & penang - lonely...
TRANSCRIPT
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Simon Richmond, Isabel Albiston
Plan Your Trip 12
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Kuala Lumpur ................. 4
Kuala Lumpur’s Top 10 ...6
What’s New ....................13
Need to Know ................14
Top Itineraries ...............16
If You Like... ....................18
Month By Month ........... 20
With Kids ....................... 22
Like a Local ................... 24
Eating ............................25Drinking & Nightlife.... 31Entertainment ............ 34Shopping ...................... 36
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Kuala Lumpur 185
Survival Guide 217
Kuala Lumpur Maps 245
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Kuala Lumpur 40
Transport .....................218 Directory A–Z ............. 222 Language ....................229
Kuala Lumpur Today ........................... 186
History ......................... 188
Life in Kuala Lumpur ...197
Multiculturalism, Religion & Culture ......200
Arts & Architecture .... 207
Environment ................212
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ................... 42Bukit Bintang & KLCC .......................... 44
Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas ...67
Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL .................. 83
Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar .. 92
Day Trips from Kuala Lumpur ............. 112
Sleeping ......................124
Melaka City.................133
Penang .........................155
R.N
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(left) Hindu statue, Batu Caves (p113)
(above) Merdeka Square (p70)
(right) Royal Museum (p99)
Chinatown,MerdekaSquare &
Bukit Nanas
Masjid India,Kampung Baru& Northern KL
BukitBintang& KLCC
p67
p44
p83
Lake Gardens,Brickfields& Bangsar
p92
Top ItinerariesDay OneBukit Bintang & KLCC (p44)
M Head to the Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC), where you’ve prebooked tickets
up the Petronas Towers. Afterwards, browse the shops in Suria KLCC and see a free art exhibition at the excellent Galeri Petronas.
Bukit Bintang & KLCC (p44)
R Take a postlunch stroll around KLCC Park, admiring the view of
the towers, then take a look at contemporary Malaysian art at the ILHAM in the Foster + Partners–designed tower. Join the 3pm tour of the Malay-style wooden house Ru-mah Penghulu Abu Seman next to Badan Warisan Malaysia, or learn about sea life at Aquaria KLCC.
Bukit Bintang & KLCC (p44)
N Go mall hopping to Pavilion KL, Starhill Gallery, Lot 10 and
Sungei Wang Plaza along Jln Bukit Bin-tang until 10pm, then head to Changkat Bukit Bintang and Jln Mesui for the bars; Pisco Bar is a good choice. Also check out No Black Tie for jazz and classical concerts.
Day TwoChinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas (p67)
M Admire the historic buildings of Merdeka Square (if you can, sign up
for one of Visit KL’s free tours), then either cycle on a hired bike or take a taxi to the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park. Start at the National Monument, then walk through the Perdana Botanical Garden to the National Museum; if you’re there by 10am you can take the free guided tour.
Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar (p92)
R Continue to enjoy the leafy surrounds of the park at the KL Bird Park or
KL Butterfly Park. Save a couple of hours for the splendid Islamic Arts Museum, then admire the architecture of Masjid Negara and KL Railway Station.
Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas (p67)
N Go souvenir shopping at the Cen-tral Market, then push your way
through the crowds at Chinatown’s Pet-aling Street Market. Finish up with a cocktail at speakeasy-style bars PS150 or Omakase + Appreciate.
Dinner Enjoy chicken wings and grilled fish at Wong Ah Wah (p55) on Jln Alor.
Lunch Try one of the restaurants at Suria KLCC (p65 or Avenue K (p65).
Dinner Sample Malaysian and Western food at Merchant’s Lane (p77).
Lunch Feast on a buffet of traditional Malay dishes at Rebung (p102)
16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
Day ThreeMasjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL (p83)
M Have breakfast at Bazaar Baru Chow Kit, one of KL’s most atmos-
pheric wet markets, then amble through the Malay area of Kampung Baru admir-ing the traditional wooden houses and flower gardens.
Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas (p67)
R Walk from Masjid India to Bukit Nanas, where you can traverse the
canopy walkway of KL Forest Eco Park and then go much higher up the Menara Kuala Lumpur, to get your bearings in
the city from the observation deck, and, weather permitting, the new outdoor deck.
Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar (p92)
N For another panoramic perspective of KL, stand on the upper terraces
of the gloriously decorative Thean Hou Temple. Walk around the many religious sites of Brickfields in the cool of the even-ing and enjoy a cocktail at the rooftop Mai Bar overlooking KL Sentral.
Day FourBatu Caves (p122)
M Climb the 272 steps at Batu Caves to pay your respects at the Hindu
Temple Cave and learn about bats and other cave dwellers in the Dark Cave, then take a taxi up to the Muzium Orang Asli in Gombak.
Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL (p83)
R View the city skyline from Titi-wangsa Lake Gardens, where you
can hire a bike, take a boat out on the lake
or even take a spin in a helicopter. Nearby is the National Visual Arts Gallery.
Bukit Bintang & KLCC (p44)
N Sink a sunset cocktail at Heli Lounge Bar. If your budget doesn’t
stretch to fine dining, a meal at Jalan Imbi Hawker Stalls or Glutton Street will be equally memorable and delicious. End the night at the new entertainment complex TREC: see some stand-up comedy or live music at Live House or club until the early hours at Zouk.
Dinner Chinese at Robson Heights (p104) or Indian food in Brickfields.
Lunch Go old school at the Hainanese kopitiam Yut Kee (p88).
Dinner Splash out on dinner at Antara Restaurant (p78) at Old Malaya.
Lunch Tuck into Thai at Samira (p88) in Sentul Park.
Kampung Baru (p85)
TOM
BR
YAN
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©
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
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Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Maps
245
2 2 2
2 2 2
2 2 2
2 2 2
2 2 2
CHINATOWN
BRICKFIELDS
PUDU
CHOWKIT KAMPUNG
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MAP INDEX1 Chinatown & Merdeka Square (p248)
2 KLCC (p250)
3 Bukit Bintang (p252)
4 Masijd India & Chow Kit (p256)
5 Kampung Baru & Titiwangsa (p258)
6 Lake Gardens & Brickfields (p260)
7 Bangsar Baru & Mid Valley (p262)
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æ Sights (p46) 20 Restoran Win Heng Seng .......................... E3 1 #districtcreative #artforlife mural...........E3 Rococo............................................... (see 72) 21 Sahara Tent.................................................C2 ú Eating (p52) 22 Santouka ......................................................E1 Ah Weng Koh Hainan Tea.................. (see 9) 23 Sao Nam...................................................... B2 2 Al-Amar Lebanese Cuisine........................ D1 Sisters Noodle ...................................(see 19) 3 Ben's............................................................. D1 Tong Shin Hokkien Mee................... (see 64) Bijan.....................................................(see 15) 24 Twenty One Kitchen & Bar........................ F6 4 Blue Boy Vegetarian Food Centre............A3 25 Wong Ah Wah.............................................. B3 5 El Cerdo........................................................G7 26 Wong Kee ....................................................C6 Enak.................................................... (see 57)
6 Fei Por ..........................................................C6 û Drinking & Nightlife (p57) Food Republic ................................... (see 53) 27 Blueboy Discotheque................................. D2 7 French Feast................................................A3 28 Ceylon Bar................................................... F6 8 Fukuya......................................................... H2 COMO................................................. (see 44) 9 Imbi Market at ICC Pudu............................E6 29 Feeka Coffee Roasters ..............................H5 10 Jalan Alor .....................................................B3 J Co Donuts & Coffee....................... (see 53) 11 Jalan Imbi Hawker Stalls............................E3 30 Kuala Lumpur Pub Crawl ..........................H6 12 Kedai Makanan Dan Minuman TKS..........B3 31 Luk Yu Tea House....................................... E2 13 Levain .......................................................... H2 32 Nagaba.........................................................H5 Lima Blas ...........................................(see 45) 33 Newens ........................................................D2 Lot 10 Hutong....................................(see 52) 34 Pisco Bar .....................................................H5 14 Neroteca ...................................................... F5 35 Rabbit Hole.................................................. F6 15 Nerovivo....................................................... A1 36 Snowflake.....................................................E1 16 Pinchos Tapas Bar...................................... F6 Supperclub........................................ (see 44) 17 Prego ............................................................E2 37 Taps Beer Bar ..............................................B1 18 Restaurant Muar.........................................A3 38 TWG Tea .......................................................E1 19 Restoran Beh Brothers..............................B3 Village Bar ..........................................(see 57)
BUKI
T BI
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254
Whisky Bar Kuala Lumpur...............(see 42) Ø Sports & Activities (p65) 39 Wings............................................................C5 59 Ampang Superbowl ...................................C4 40 Zion Club...................................................... F7 60 Asianel Reflexology Spa............................ E2 41 Zouk..............................................................H5 61 Berjaya Times Square Theme Park.........C4 Celebrity Fitness............................... (see 52) ý Entertainment (p62) Donna Spa..........................................(see 57) 42 Forbidden City.............................................G7 62 JoJoBa Spa .................................................C4 43 GSC Pavilion KL .......................................... D1 Spa Village......................................... (see 76) GSC Berjaya Times Square.............(see 46) 63 Starhill Culinary Studio.............................. E2 44 Live House ...................................................H5
45 No Black Tie.................................................H5 ÿ Sleeping (p127) 64 Anggun Boutique Hotel ............................. A3 þ Shopping (p63) 65 Ceria Hotel................................................... B5 46 Berjaya Times Square................................C4 66 Chaos Hotel.................................................D2 British India........................................(see 53) 67 Classic Inn ................................................... C5 47 Eu Yan Sang.................................................D5 68 Container Hotel ..........................................H2 48 Fahrenheit88...............................................D2 69 D'Majestic Place ......................................... D7 49 House of Suzie Wong .................................D2 Dorms KL........................................... (see 64) 50 Jadi Batek Centre .......................................G2 70 Invito ............................................................G6 Khoon Hooi ........................................ (see 57) 71 Kuala Lumpur Journal ................................C1 51 KWC Fashion Mall.......................................B7 72 Melange Boutique Hotel............................B2 52 Lot 10............................................................D2 73 Mesui Hotel .................................................G5 53 Pavilion KL ....................................................E1 74 Parkroyal Serviced Suites..........................B1 54 Plaza Low Yat ..............................................C3 75 Rainforest Bed & Breakfast ......................H5 55 Purple Cane Tea Square............................D5 76 Ritz Carlton ................................................. E2 56 Royal Selangor............................................ D1 77 Sahabat Guest House.................................F7 57 Starhill Gallery.............................................E2 78 Wolo Bukit Bintang..................................... C2 58 Sungei Wang Plaza.....................................C3 79 YY38 Hotel................................................... B2
BUKIT BINTAN
G255
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MASJID INDIA & CHOW KIT æ Sights (p85) û Drinking & Nightlife (p90) 1 Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Butter & Beans ..................................(see 16) Gallery .......................................................A5 13 Coliseum Cafe.............................................C6 2 Bazaar Baru Chow Kit ................................C3 14 Nam Kee ......................................................D3 3 Loke Mansion ..............................................C5
4 Masjid India..................................................C7 ý Entertainment (p90) 5 Tatt Khalsa Diwan Gurdwara ....................D3 15 Coliseum Theatre.......................................C6
ú Eating (p87) þ Shopping (p91) 6 Capital Café .................................................C6 16 League of Captains .................................... D5 7 Kin Kin ..........................................................C4 17 Peter Hoe at the Row................................. D5 Limapulo ............................................ (see 16) 18 Rattan Art Enterprises...............................C4 8 Masjid India Pasar Malam..........................C6 19 Semua House..............................................C6 9 Mungo Jerry ................................................C3
Murtabak Ana.................................... (see 10) ÿ Sleeping (p131) 10 Pak Ngah Bihun Sup...................................C3 20 Reeds ...........................................................D5 11 Saravana Bhavan........................................C7 21 Tune Hotel Downtown ...............................C4 12 Yut Kee .........................................................D6 22 Vistana..........................................................B1
MASJID IN
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æ Top Sights (p94) 31 Brickfields Pisang Goreng...C5 1 Islamic Arts Museum .......... D3 32 Colonial Cafe.........................D4 2 National Museum................. C4 Fierce Curry House .... (see 47) 3 Tun Abdul Razak Heritage 33 Gem Restaurant ...................C6 Park..................................... C2 34 Hornbill Restaurant..............C3 35 Ikan Bakar Jalan Bellamy .... E6 æ Sights (p99) Islamic Arts Museum 4 Buddhist Maha Vihara..........C7 Restaurant...................(see 1) 5 Deer Park ...............................B2 36 Jassal Tandoori 6 Evangelical Zion Lutheran Restaurant..........................C5 Church................................ C6 37 Kompleks Makan Tanglin....D2 7 Hibiscus Garden................... C2 38 Lawanya Food Corner..........D5 8 Holy Rosary Church ............ D4 39 Rebung................................... C1 9 Jln Tun Sambanthan 40 Restoran Yarl ........................D5 Garland Sellers...................B7 41 Southern Rock Seafood ......A6 10 KL Bird Park.......................... C3 42 Vishal......................................D5 11 KL Butterfly Park ................. C2
12 Kwong Tong Cemetery ........E7 û Drinking & Nightlife (p106) 13 Little India Fountain............. B6 Coley ............................ (see 47) 14 Malayan Railway 43 Kia Klemenz .......................... C1 Administration 44 Mai Bar...................................C5 Building .............................. D3
15 Masjid Negara ...................... D3 ý Entertainment (p107) 16 Memorial Tun Abdul Razak C3 45 Temple of Fine Arts ..............C7 17 Museum of Malay World 46 Tugu Drum Circle ................. B1 Ethnology........................... C4
18 National Monument.............. B1 þ Shopping (p107) 19 National Planetarium .......... D4 47 DR.Inc.....................................A6 20 Old KL Train Station .............E3 Lavanya Arts ............... (see 45) Orang Asli Craft 48 Nu Sentral..............................C5 Museum .....................(see 17) 49 Sonali ..................................... E5 21 Orchid Garden...................... C2 50 Wei-Ling Gallery....................D5 22 Royal Malaysian Police
Museum ............................. C3 Ø Sports & Activities (p111) 23 Royal Museum ......................E5 51 Majestic Spa..........................D4 24 Sam Kow Tong Temple........C5 52 Old KL & Nature Walk .......... D1 25 Sree Veera Hanuman YMCA ........................... (see 56) Temple ................................D5
26 Sri Kandaswamy Temple.....E5 ÿ Sleeping (p131) 27 Sri Sakthi Vinayagar Aloft Kuala Lumpur Temple ............................... C6 Sentral.......................(see 44) 28 Vivekananda Ashram .......... B6 53 Hilton Kuala Lumpur............B5 Majestic Hotel ............. (see 32) ú Eating (p102) 54 PODs ......................................C6 29 ABC Stall ................................D5 55 St Regis Kuala Lumpur........C5 30 Ammars ................................ C6 56 YMCA .....................................C5 Annalakshmi
Vegetarian
Restaurant................(see 45)
lAKe GARDeNS & BRICKFIelDS
261
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BANGSAR BARU & MID VALLEY æ Sights (p101) 26 Sino The Bar Upstairs............................... B2 1 Sekeping Tenggiri......................................B7 Social................................................ (see 40)
ú Eating (p104) ý Entertainment (p107) 2 Alexis Bistro ...............................................B2 27 GSC Mid Valley.......................................... A6 3 Ashley's By Living Food ............................ B1
4 Bangsar Fish Head Corner .......................A4 þ Shopping (p109) 5 Bangsar Sunday Market ...........................C2 28 Cap City ..................................................... A6 6 Chawan ......................................................B3 29 Comoddity ................................................. C2 7 Chelo's Appam Stall ..................................A4 d.d.collective .................................... (see 41) 8 Delicious.....................................................C2 30 Fabspy ....................................................... A6 9 G3 Kitchen & Bar .......................................B2 Gardens Mall ....................................(see 33) 10 Ganga Cafe ................................................C7 31 I Love Snackfood....................................... B2 11 Jaslyn Cakes ..............................................C2 32 Lonely Dream ............................................ B2 12 Nam Chuan Coffee Shop ..........................B4 33 Mid Valley Megamall ................................. A6 13 Nasi Kandar Pelita ..................................... B1 34 Mimpikita ................................................... C2 Nutmeg ............................................ (see 29) 35 Never Follow Suit ...................................... C2 14 Poomy's .....................................................A4 36 Nurita Harith.............................................. B2 15 Restaurant Mahbub ..................................B4 37 Pucuk Rebung ........................................... B4 16 Sage............................................................A6 38 Shoes Shoes Shoes .................................. C2 17 Shucked .....................................................A6 39 Silverfish Books......................................... C3 Sri Nirwana Maju ............................. (see 32) 40 Thisappear................................................. B2 18 Wondermama............................................B3 41 TriBeCa ...................................................... C3 19 Yeast Bistronomy......................................C2 42 World of Feng Shui.................................... A6 Yuzu.................................................. (see 33)
Ø Sports & Activities (p111) û Drinking & Nightlife (p106) Dive Station Explorer.......................(see 33) 20 Bilique Bangsar..........................................B2 43 Hammam Spa ........................................... C2 21 Coffea Coffee............................................. C1 44 Kizsports & Gym ....................................... C2 Library ...............................................(see 16) 45 Kompleks Sukan Bangsar .........................A1 22 Mantra Bar KL............................................C2
23 Plan b..........................................................B3 ÿ Sleeping (p131) 24 Pulp by Papa Palheta ............................... D6 Gardens Hotel & Residences ..........(see 33) 25 Ril's Bar ...................................................... C1 Sekeping Tenggiri .............................. (see 1)
BANGSAR BARU & M
ID VAlleY263
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Our WritersSimon RichmondCurator, Melaka and Penang Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the com-pany, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and
Turkey. His travel features have been published in newspapers and magazines around the world, including in the UK’s Independent, Guardian, Times, Daily Telegraph and Royal Geographical Society Magazine; and Australia’s Sydney Morning Herald and Australian newspapers and Aus-tralian Financial Review Magazine.
Isabel AlbistonChinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas, Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern Kuala Lumpur and Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar After 6 years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, squeezing in as many trips as annual leave would allow, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia was followed by four years
living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014, having been back in the UK just long enough to pack a bag for a research trip to Malaysia, and has contributed to five Lonely Planet guides.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Read more about Isabel at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/IsabelAlbiston
Read more about Simon at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/simonrichmond
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