Laos

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00-Front Matter

Laos 0

00-contents-lao8.dwg

Luang

Laos

Laos

Central

p212

Southern

p184Laos

p134& AroundVientiane

p34Around

Prabang &

p66

Northern

Hydro

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KEY FORMAT SETTINGS

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THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Nick Ray, Greg Bloom, Richard Waters

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Laos . . . . . . . 4

Laos Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Laos’ Top 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16

If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Month by Month . . . . . . . 20

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Outdoor Adventures . . . . 26

Regions at a Glance . . . . .31

LUANG PRABANG & AROUND . . . . . . . . . 34Luang Prabang . . . . . . . . 35Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 50Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 58Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 59Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Around Luang Prabang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Pak Ou Caves . . . . . . . . . . . 63Tat Kuang Si . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Tat Sae ້ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Ban Phanom & Beyond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

NORTHERN LAOS . . .66Xieng Khuang & Hua Phan Provinces . . . . 70Phonsavan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Around Phonsavan . . . . . . . 75Sam Neua (Xam Neua) . . . 78Around Sam Neua . . . . . . . 80Sam Neua to Vietnam . . . . 82Sam Neua to Nong Khiaw 82Vieng Thong (Muang Hiam) . . . . . . . . . . 83Muang Ngoi District . . . . 84Nong Khiaw . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Muang Ngoi Neua (Ban Ngoi Kao) . . . . . . . . . 87Around Muang Ngoi Neua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Phongsali Province . . . . . 90Muang Khua . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Phongsali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

Around Phongsali . . . . . . . . 97Northwestern Laos . . . . . 98Udomxai (Oudomsay, Muang Xai) . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Around Udomxai . . . . . . . 101Boten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Luang Namtha (Namtha) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Around Luang Namtha . . .108Muang Sing . . . . . . . . . . . 109Xieng Kok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112The Middle Mekong . . . .113Huay Xai (Hoksay) . . . . . . 113Around Huay Xai . . . . . . . . 119Pak Beng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Tha Suang . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Hongsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Muang Ngeun . . . . . . . . . 124Sainyabuli (Sayaboury) . . . . . . . . . . . 124Pak Lai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127

VIENTIANE & AROUND . . . . . . . . 134Vientiane . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Festivals & Events . . . . . . 148Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Drinking & Nightlife . . . . 158Entertainment . . . . . . . . . 159Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Around Vientiane . . . . . 169Phu Khao Khuay NPA . . . 169Vientiane to Vang Vieng . . .171Vang Vieng . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Vang Vieng towards Luang Prabang . . . . . . . . . 183

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

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Contents

CENTRAL LAOS . . . 184Bolikhamsai & Khammuan Provinces . .185Paksan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Paksan to Lak Sao . . . . . . 188Lak Sao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Tha Khaek . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Around Tha Khaek . . . . . .200Savannakhet Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Savannakhet . . . . . . . . . . 202Around Savannakhet . . . .208Dong Phu Vieng NPA . . .208Phu Xang Hae NPA . . . . .209Sepon (Xepon) & the Ho Chi Minh Trail . . .209

SOUTHERN LAOS . . .212Pakse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Around Pakse . . . . . . . . 222Don Kho & Ban Saphai . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Phou Xieng Thong NPA . . .223Champasak . . . . . . . . . . 223Around Champasak . . . 227Wat Phu Champasak . . . 227Uo Moung (Tomo Temple) . . . . . . . . .230Kiet Ngong . . . . . . . . . . . .230

Se Pian NPA . . . . . . . . . . . 232Bolaven Plateau . . . . . . 232Paksong & Around . . . . . 233Tat Lo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Salavan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Around Salavan . . . . . . . . 238Sekong (Muang Lamam) . . . . . . . 238Around Sekong . . . . . . . . .240Attapeu (Samakhi Xai) . . . 242Around Attapeu . . . . . . . . 245Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) . . . . 246Don Khong (Khong Island) . . . . . . . . . 246Don Det & Don Khon . . . 250

Laos Today . . . . . . . . . . . 260

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262

People & Culture . . . . . .277

Environment . . . . . . . . . 292

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 304

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . .314

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 329

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 343

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURES

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Outdoor Adventures . . . 26

River Life . . . . . . . . . . . . 132

People & Culture . . . . . .277

Environment . . . . . . . . . 292

River LifeThe Mekong River is the lifeblood of Laos. It’s like an artery cutting through the heart of the country, while other important rivers are the veins, breathing life into the landscape and providing transport links between remote landlocked communities. For many Laotians, the river is not just part of their life, it is their life.

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1. Nam Ou, Muang Ngoi Neua (p87) A longtail boat ‘taxi’ carries passengers on the Nam Ou.

2. Mekong River, Vientiane (p134)Working on the river, near Vientiane.

3. Tha Khaek (p194)Traditional net shing on the Mekong River.

4. Don Det (p250) Travellers leap into the Mekong River on the island of Don Det.

12c-river-life-lao8.indd 132-133 23/10/2013 1:47:46 PM

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Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – February 2014ISBN 978 1 74179 954 5© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSNick RayCoordinating Author, Luang Prabang & Around, Northern Laos A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He currently lives in Phnom Penh and has written for countless guidebooks on the Mekong region, including Lonely Planet’s Cambodia and Vietnam, as well as Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. When not writing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of the region as a location scout or line producer for the world of

television and film, including anything from Top Gear Vietnam to Tomb Raider. Luang Prabang is one of his favourite places on earth and he was thrilled to finally explore the fabled Vieng Xai Caves that once sheltered the Pathet Lao.

Greg BloomSouthern Laos Greg first visited Laos as a backpacker in 1997, journeying from Vientiane to Muang Sing via the lonely backwaters of Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang. Finally returning 15 years later he is happy to report that, while thoroughly discovered, the country has lost none of its indolent charm. These days Greg lives in Cambodia. He has written close to 20 books for Lonely Planet, mostly about Southeast Asia and the former Soviet Union. Read about his trips at

www.mytripjournal.com/bloomblogs.

Richard WatersVientiane & Around, Central Laos Richard is an award-winning journalist and photographer and regularly works for The Independent, Sunday Times, Wanderlust and National Geographic Traveller. He lives with his fiancée and two kids in the Cotswolds. He has just published his Lao-set travel thriller Black Buddha on Kindle.

CONTRIBUTING AUTHORSProfessor Martin Stuart-Fox wrote the History chapter. He is Emeritus Professor at University of Queensland and has written extensively about Laos’ history and politics.

Read more about Greg at: lonelyplanet.com/members/gbloom4

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Plan Your Trip

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21 DAYS

Northern Laos is one of the most popular regions of the country for adrenalin and adventure activities, coupled with an authentic dose of ethnic minority lifestyles. Right at the heart of the region lies Luang Prabang, the perfect place to start or finish a road trip through the remote north.

Lovely Luang Prabang is a destination in itself. Spend your time exploring the old town and its myriad temples, traditional buildings and galleries, cafes and shops.

Head southeast from Luang Prabang to Phonsavan, gateway to the Plain of Jars and its mysterious vessels, one of the most popular destinations in Laos. It is then time to leave the tourist trail and head to the Vieng Xai Caves. The setting is spectacular amid the karst caves and the historic audio tour is one of the most com-pelling experiences in Laos.

Swinging west, it is possible to try a tiger trek in the remote protected area of Nam Et/Phou Louey NPA, although a tiger sighting is unlikely. Continue to Nong Khiaw, a beautiful village on the banks of

Hit the North

Itineraries

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Muang Khua, Phongsali Province (p90)

the Nam Ou (Ou River) with striking lime-stone crags looming all around. This is the embarkation point for an adventurous boat trip to Phongsali Province via the small villages of Muong Ngoi Neua and Muang Khua. Phongsali is considered the most authentic trekking destination in Laos and it is possible to experience homestays with Akha villagers.

Head on to Luang Namtha, a friendly base for some northwesterly adventures. Trek into the Nam Ha NPA or try a cycling or kayaking trip in the countryside beyond.

From Luang Namtha head down to Huay Xai, a Mekong River border town and gate-way to the Golden Triangle. If time is tight, bail out here, but it is better to continue the loop back to Luang Prabang by river. The two-day boat trip from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang via Pak Beng is one of the most accessible river trips in the country.

Or take just a one-day boat trip to Pak Beng and then leave the river behind to head to Sainyabuli and the superb Elephant Conservation Center on the Nam Tien lake. This can also be visited out of Luang Prabang.

23PLAN

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This classic southern route takes you through the heartland of lowland Lao culture, a world of broad river plains planted with rice and homemade looms shaded by wooden houses on stilts.

Start in Vientiane, the country’s capital, and soak up the sights, shopping, cuisine and night-life, as things get quieter from here. Make a side trip to the backpacker mecca of Vang Vieng, surrounded by craggy, cave-studded limestone peaks.

Head south to Tha Khaek, the archetypal sleepy Mekong riverside town, and go east on Rte 12 to explore the caves of the Khammuan Limestone area or take the Loop all the way around, stopping at the incredible cave of Tham Kong Lo.

Continue south to Savannakhet for a taste of how Vientiane looked before it received a makeover from the Lao PDR government and international aid money.

Roll on southward to Pakse, gateway to the southernmost province of Champasak. Champasak town is a more relaxed alternative to Pakse and is the base for seeing Laos’ most important archaeological site, Wat Phu Cham-pasak, an Angkor-style temple ruin spread across the slopes of sacred Phu Pasak.

A rewarding side trip takes you up onto the Bolaven Plateau and to Laos’ most impressive waterfall at Tat Fan. This is also the place to try the impressive Treetop Explorer experience, a jungle zipline adventure that is the south’s answer to the Gibbon Experience. At the cof-fee capital of Paksong, stop to buy some java before heading to beautiful Tat Lo. This is a great place to hang out and swim in the falls, undertaking gentle treks through local villages or even an elephant ride.

Another option for an elephant ride is from the village of Kiet Ngong to the elevated archaeol-ogical site of Phu Asa. This is a logical stop on the route south to Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands), an archipelago of idyllic river islands where the farming and fishing life hasn’t changed much for a century or more. Swing in a hammock and relax, before moving on to Cambodia or heading to Thailand via Chong Mek.

14 DAYS

Central and Southern Laos

Top: Wat Phu Champasak (p227) Bottom: Mekong River, Si Phan Don (p246)

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