Lecture Notes on Coastal and Estuarine Studies

Vol. 1 :

Vol. 2:

Vol. 3:

Vol. 4:

Vol. 5:

Vol. 6:

Vol. 7:

Vol. 8:

Vol. 9:

Mathematical Modelling of Estuarine Physics. Proceedings, 1978. Edited by J. Sunder­mann and K.·P.Holz, VIII, 265 pages. 1980.

D. P. Finn, Managing the Ocean Resources of the United States: The Role of the Federal Marine Sanctuaries Program. IX, 193 pages. 1982.

Synthesis and Modelling of Intermittent Estuaries. Edited by M. Tomczak Jr. and W. Cuff. VIII, 302 pages. 1983.

H. R. Gordon and A. Y. Morel, Remote Assessment of Ocean Color for Interpretation of Satellite Visible Imagery. V, 114 pages. 1983.

D. C. L. Lam, C. R. Murthy and R. B. Simpson, Effluent Transport and Diffusion Models for the Coastal Zone. IX, 168 pages. 1984.

Ecology of Barnegat Bay, New Jersey. Edited by M.J. Kennish and R.A. Lutz. XIV, 396 pages. 1984.

W. R. Edeson and J.-F. Pulvenis, The Legal Regime of Fisheries in the Caribbean Region. X, 204 pages. 1983.

Marine Phytoplankton and Productivity. Edited by O. Holm-Hansen, L. Balis and R. Gilles. VII, 175 pages. 1984.

Osmoregulation in Estuarine and Marine Animals. Edited by A. Pequeux, R. Gilles and L. Balis. X, 221 pages. 1984.

Vol. 10: J. L. McHugh, Fishery Management. VII, 207 pages. 1984.

Vol. 11: Observations on the Ecology and Biology of Western Cape Cod Bay, Massachusetts. Edited by J. D. Davis and D. Merriman. XIV, 289 pages. 1984.

Vol. 12: Offshore and Coastal Modelling. Edited by P. P. G. Dyke, A. O. Moscardini, and E. H. Robson. IX, 399 pages. 1985.

Vol. 13: Seawater-Sediment Interactions in Coastal Waters. An Interdisciplinary Approach. Edited by J. Rumohr, E. Walger, and B. Zeitzschel. V, 338 pages. 1987.

Vol. 14: Estuarine Cohesive Sediment Dynamics. Edited by A.J. Mehta. VI, 473 pages. 1986.

Vol. 15: Plankton Dynamics of the Southern California Bight. Edited by R. W. Eppley. XIII, 373 pages. 1986.

Vol. 16: Physics of Shallow Estuaries and Bays. Edited by J. van de Kreeke. IX, 280 pages. 1986.

Vol. 17: Tidal Mixing and Plankton Dynamics. Edited by M. J. Bowman, C. M. Yentsch and W. T. Peterson. X, 502 pages. 1986.

Vol. 18: F. Bo Pedersen, Environmental Hydraulics: Stratified Flows. VIII, 278 pages. 1986.

Vol. 19: K.N. Fedorov, The Physical Nature and Structure of Oceanic Fronts. VIII, 333 pages. 1986.

Vol. 20: Environmental Decisionmaking in a Transboundary Region. Edited by A. Rieser, J. Spiller and D. VanderZwaag. XIII, 209 pages. 1986.

Vol. 21: Th. Stocker, K. Hutter, Topographic Waves in Channels and Lakes on the f-Plane. X, 176 pages. 1987.

Vol. 22: B.-O. Jansson (Ed.), Coastal-Offshore Ecosystem Interactions. XV, 367 pages. 1988.

Vol. 23: K. Heck, Jr. (Ed.), Ecological Studies in the Middle Reach of Chesapeake Bay. VI. 287 pages. 1987.

Vol. 24: D. G. Shaw, M. J. Hameedi (Eds.), Environmental Studies in Port Valdez, Alaska. XIII, 423 pages. 1988.

ctd. on inside back cover

Lecture Notes on Coastal and Estuarine Studies

Vol. 1 :

Vol. 2:

Vol. 3:

Vol. 4:

Vol. 5:

Vol. 6:

Vol. 7:

Vol. 8:

Vol. 9:

Mathematical Modelling of Estuarine Physics. Proceedings, 1978. Edited by J. Sunder­mann and K.·P.Holz, VIII, 265 pages. 1980.

D. P. Finn, Managing the Ocean Resources of the United States: The Role of the Federal Marine Sanctuaries Program. IX, 193 pages. 1982.

Synthesis and Modelling of Intermittent Estuaries. Edited by M. Tomczak Jr. and W. Cuff. VIII, 302 pages. 1983.

H. R. Gordon and A. Y. Morel, Remote Assessment of Ocean Color for Interpretation of Satellite Visible Imagery. V, 114 pages. 1983.

D. C. L. Lam, C. R. Murthy and R. B. Simpson, Effluent Transport and Diffusion Models for the Coastal Zone. IX, 168 pages. 1984.

Ecology of Barnegat Bay, New Jersey. Edited by M.J. Kennish and R.A. Lutz. XIV, 396 pages. 1984.

W. R. Edeson and J.-F. Pulvenis, The Legal Regime of Fisheries in the Caribbean Region. X, 204 pages. 1983.

Marine Phytoplankton and Productivity. Edited by O. Holm-Hansen, L. Balis and R. Gilles. VII, 175 pages. 1984.

Osmoregulation in Estuarine and Marine Animals. Edited by A. Pequeux, R. Gilles and L. Balis. X, 221 pages. 1984.

Vol. 10: J. L. McHugh, Fishery Management. VII, 207 pages. 1984.

Vol. 11: Observations on the Ecology and Biology of Western Cape Cod Bay, Massachusetts. Edited by J. D. Davis and D. Merriman. XIV, 289 pages. 1984.

Vol. 12: Offshore and Coastal Modelling. Edited by P. P. G. Dyke, A. O. Moscardini, and E. H. Robson. IX, 399 pages. 1985.

Vol. 13: Seawater-Sediment Interactions in Coastal Waters. An Interdisciplinary Approach. Edited by J. Rumohr, E. Walger, and B. Zeitzschel. V, 338 pages. 1987.

Vol. 14: Estuarine Cohesive Sediment Dynamics. Edited by A.J. Mehta. VI, 473 pages. 1986.

Vol. 15: Plankton Dynamics of the Southern California Bight. Edited by R. W. Eppley. XIII, 373 pages. 1986.

Vol. 16: Physics of Shallow Estuaries and Bays. Edited by J. van de Kreeke. IX, 280 pages. 1986.

Vol. 17: Tidal Mixing and Plankton Dynamics. Edited by M. J. Bowman, C. M. Yentsch and W. T. Peterson. X, 502 pages. 1986.

Vol. 18: F. Bo Pedersen, Environmental Hydraulics: Stratified Flows. VIII, 278 pages. 1986.

Vol. 19: K.N. Fedorov, The Physical Nature and Structure of Oceanic Fronts. VIII, 333 pages. 1986.

Vol. 20: Environmental Decisionmaking in a Transboundary Region. Edited by A. Rieser, J. Spiller and D. VanderZwaag. XIII, 209 pages. 1986.

Vol. 21: Th. Stocker, K. Hutter, Topographic Waves in Channels and Lakes on the f-Plane. X, 176 pages. 1987.

Vol. 22: B.-O. Jansson (Ed.), Coastal-Offshore Ecosystem Interactions. XV, 367 pages. 1988.

Vol. 23: K. Heck, Jr. (Ed.), Ecological Studies in the Middle Reach of Chesapeake Bay. VI. 287 pages. 1987.

Vol. 24: D. G. Shaw, M. J. Hameedi (Eds.), Environmental Studies in Port Valdez, Alaska. XIII, 423 pages. 1988.

ctd. on inside back cover

Lecture Notes on Coastal and Estuarine Studies Managing Editors: Malcolm J. Bowman Richard T. Barber Christopher N .K. Mooers John A. Raven

29

David G. Aubrey Lee Weishar (Eds.)

Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of Tidal Inlets

Springer Science+ Business Media, LLC

Managing Editors Malcolm J. Bowman Marine Sciences Research Center, State University of New York Stony Brook, N.Y. 11794, USA

Richard T. Barber Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute Pacific Grove, CA 93950, USA

Christopher N. K. Mooers Institute for Naval Oceanography National Space Technology Laboratories MS 39529, USA

John A. Raven Dept. of Biological Sciences, Dundee University Dundee, 001 4HN, Scotland

Contributing Editors Ain Aitsam (Tallinn, USSR) . Larry Atkinson (Savannah, USA) Robert C. Beardsley (Woods Hole, USA) . Tseng Cheng-Ken (Qingdao, PRC)

Keith R. Dyer (Merseyside, UK) . Jon B. Hinwood (Melbourne, AUS) Jorg Imberger (Western Australia, AUS) . Hideo Kawai (Kyoto, Japan) Paul H. Le Blond (Vancouver, Canada) . L. Mysak (Montreal, Canada) Akira Okuboi (Stony Brook, USA) . William S. Reebourgh (Fairbanks, USA) David A. Ross (Woods Hole, USA) . John H. Simpson (Gwynedd, UK) Absornsuda Siripong (Bangkok, Thailand) . Robert L. Smith (Covallis, USA) Mathias Tomczak (Sydney, AUS)· Paul Tyler (Swansea, UK)

Editors

David G. Aubrey Coastal Research Center Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA

Lee Weishar Coastal Engineering Research Center Waterways Experiment Station P.O. Box 631, Vicksburg, MS 39180, USA

ISBN 978-0-387-96888-9 ISBN 978-1-4757-4057-8 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-1-4757-4057-8

This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, re-use of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in other ways, and storage in data banks. Duplication of this publication or parts thereof is only permitted under the provisions of the German Copyright Law of September 9, 1965, in its version of June 24, 1985, and a copyright fee must always be paid. Violations fall under the prosecution act of the German Copyright Law.

© Springer Science+Business Media New York, 1988 Originally published by Springer-Verlag New York, Inc. in 1988.

2837/3140-543210 - Printed on acid-free paper

Managing Editors Malcolm J. Bowman Marine Sciences Research Center, State University of New York Stony Brook, N.Y. 11794, USA

Richard T. Barber Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute Pacific Grove, CA 93950, USA

Christopher N. K. Mooers Institute for Naval Oceanography National Space Technology Laboratories MS 39529, USA

John A. Raven Dept. of Biological Sciences, Dundee University Dundee, 001 4HN, Scotland

Contributing Editors Ain Aitsam (Tallinn, USSR) . Larry Atkinson (Savannah, USA) Robert C. Beardsley (Woods Hole, USA) . Tseng Cheng-Ken (Qingdao, PRC)

Keith R. Dyer (Merseyside, UK) . Jon B. Hinwood (Melbourne, AUS) Jorg Imberger (Western Australia, AUS) . Hideo Kawai (Kyoto, Japan) Paul H. Le Blond (Vancouver, Canada) . L. Mysak (Montreal, Canada) Akira Okuboi (Stony Brook, USA) . William S. Reebourgh (Fairbanks, USA) David A. Ross (Woods Hole, USA) . John H. Simpson (Gwynedd, UK) Absornsuda Siripong (Bangkok, Thailand) . Robert L. Smith (Covallis, USA) Mathias Tomczak (Sydney, AUS)· Paul Tyler (Swansea, UK)

Editors

David G. Aubrey Coastal Research Center Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA

Lee Weishar Coastal Engineering Research Center Waterways Experiment Station P.O. Box 631, Vicksburg, MS 39180, USA

ISBN 978-0-387-96888-9 ISBN 978-1-4757-4057-8 (eBook) DOl 10.1007/978-1-4757-4057-8

This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, re-use of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in other ways, and storage in data banks. Duplication of this publication or parts thereof is only permitted under the provisions of the German Copyright Law of September 9, 1965, in its version of June 24, 1985, and a copyright fee must always be paid. Violations fall under the prosecution act of the German Copyright Law.

© Springer Science+Business Media New York, 1988 Originally published by Springer-Verlag New York, Inc. in 1988.

2837/3140-543210 - Printed on acid-free paper

PREFACE

Along the majority of the coastline of the United States and much of the shoreline

of the world, tidal inlets play an important role in nearshore processes. Tidal inlets

provide the link between the coastal oceans and the protected embayments behind them,

exchanging water, sediments, nutrients, planktonic organisms, and pollutants between

them. Because they interrupt the continuity of shoreline processes, inlets playa major

role in sediment budgets and shoreline erosion. In addition, these tidal inlets are critical

resources because they are the interfaces for the world's coasts; proper management of

these features is essential to preserve the delicate equilibrium of the open shorelines and

protected bays. When new inlets form or old inlets close off, significant environmental

hazards may be posed. Inlets prone to closure limit the exchange of oxygen and nutrients

between the ocean and embayment, resulting in a degradation in water quality. When a

new inlet forms, drastic changes in shoreline configuration often result, an excellent

example of which was the formation in January, 1987, of a new inlet at Chatham,

Massachusetts, which resulted in a reorientation of the inner and outer coasts of the

embayment with consequent economic impacts (see Giese, this volume). The behavior of

these highly ephemeral inlets can have dramatic environmental, social, and economic

impacts.

An example of the prevalence of inlet-related problems is found in Florida, which

has nineteen tidal inlets on its east coast and many more along its west coast. These inlets

serve as the primary navigable link between the ocean and inland waterways for

commercial and private purposes. The majority of these tidal inlets are dredged

frequently to maintain navigable depths. Dean (this volume) estimates that approximately

40 million cubic meters of sediment dredged from tidal inlets along the east coast of

Florida have been placed in deep water. This sediment volume is roughly equivalent to

an additional width of 8 m over the entire 640-km length of the east coast of Florida.

Opening of new inlets, such as St. Lucie Inlet in 1892, has disrupted natural longshore

sand transport patterns and enhanced erosion along downdrift beaches. Although Florida

may have a higher density of tidal inlets than most other coastal regions, the problems and

solutions arising in the Florida example may serve as useful guides for planning and

management efforts elsewhere.

Tidal inlets have been scrutinized for many years, as they are a primary navigation

pathway for harbors within the embayments. Early work by O'Brien, Escoffier, Bruun,

and others has paved the way for increased understanding of tidal inlet performance and

behavior. As with many coastal systems, however, tidal inlet behavior is complex and

hence poorly predictable from first principles, relying heavily instead on empiricism. To

help remedy these deficiencies in understanding, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers'

Coastal Engineering Research Center conducted a decade-long study of tidal inlets in the

PREFACE

Along the majority of the coastline of the United States and much of the shoreline

of the world, tidal inlets play an important role in nearshore processes. Tidal inlets

provide the link between the coastal oceans and the protected embayments behind them,

exchanging water, sediments, nutrients, planktonic organisms, and pollutants between

them. Because they interrupt the continuity of shoreline processes, inlets playa major

role in sediment budgets and shoreline erosion. In addition, these tidal inlets are critical

resources because they are the interfaces for the world's coasts; proper management of

these features is essential to preserve the delicate equilibrium of the open shorelines and

protected bays. When new inlets form or old inlets close off, significant environmental

hazards may be posed. Inlets prone to closure limit the exchange of oxygen and nutrients

between the ocean and embayment, resulting in a degradation in water quality. When a

new inlet forms, drastic changes in shoreline configuration often result, an excellent

example of which was the formation in January, 1987, of a new inlet at Chatham,

Massachusetts, which resulted in a reorientation of the inner and outer coasts of the

embayment with consequent economic impacts (see Giese, this volume). The behavior of

these highly ephemeral inlets can have dramatic environmental, social, and economic

impacts.

An example of the prevalence of inlet-related problems is found in Florida, which

has nineteen tidal inlets on its east coast and many more along its west coast. These inlets

serve as the primary navigable link between the ocean and inland waterways for

commercial and private purposes. The majority of these tidal inlets are dredged

frequently to maintain navigable depths. Dean (this volume) estimates that approximately

40 million cubic meters of sediment dredged from tidal inlets along the east coast of

Florida have been placed in deep water. This sediment volume is roughly equivalent to

an additional width of 8 m over the entire 640-km length of the east coast of Florida.

Opening of new inlets, such as St. Lucie Inlet in 1892, has disrupted natural longshore

sand transport patterns and enhanced erosion along downdrift beaches. Although Florida

may have a higher density of tidal inlets than most other coastal regions, the problems and

solutions arising in the Florida example may serve as useful guides for planning and

management efforts elsewhere.

Tidal inlets have been scrutinized for many years, as they are a primary navigation

pathway for harbors within the embayments. Early work by O'Brien, Escoffier, Bruun,

and others has paved the way for increased understanding of tidal inlet performance and

behavior. As with many coastal systems, however, tidal inlet behavior is complex and

hence poorly predictable from first principles, relying heavily instead on empiricism. To

help remedy these deficiencies in understanding, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers'

Coastal Engineering Research Center conducted a decade-long study of tidal inlets in the

IV

1970's--the General Investigation of Tidal Inlets (GITI). This major engineering effort

on tidal inlets provided many improvements in understanding and prediction of tidal inlet

processes, yet recognized the need for ongoing research to resolve the myriad of

remaining uncertainties in prediction of tidal inlet behavior. Since the GITI, support for

research on tidal inlets has been languishing due to a lack of both directed funding and a

dedicated research program. This situation has led to disjointed efforts by a number of

scientists and engineers who have strived to persevere in this research arena.

This volume is a compendium of scientific papers presenting research on tidal

inlets performed over the past few years, written by researchers from a variety of

different discip,lines and locations in the United States. The papers originally were

presented at an International Symposium on Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of

Tidal Inlets, held at Woods Hole, MA, in December, 1986, and sponsored by the U.S.

Army Waterways Experiment Station's Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC),

the Woods Hole Sea Grant Program, and the Woods Hole Coastal Research Center.

Following the symposium, the authors submitted articles which were distributed for peer

review, rewritten, and subsequently published in this volume.

This volume consists of five sections. The first section, mathematical modeling,

includes a review of tidal inlet hydrodynamics by J. van de Kreeke, followed by an

analytical model of tidal inlet filters, and three articles on the application of CERC's

numerical models to tidal inlet problems. The second section on observations of inlet

hydrodynamics includes four articles on observations of tidal inlet filtering processes and

a discussion of new instrumentation for monitoring Lagrangian flows in tidal inlets. The

third section consists of five articles on sediments and morphology of tidal inlets,

including a variety of space and time scales. The fourth section examines tidal deltas, a

major engineering and scientific concern. The volume finishes with articles discussing

the processes and policies pertaining to sedimentation near tidal inlets, and the impacts of

shore protection and dredging projects on beaches near tidal inlets.

A major objective of this symposium was to provide a broad overview of present­

day tidal inlet research. However, we realize that this volume falls short in answering

some of the major questions associated with tidal inlets such as: Why are new inlets

formed (such as at Chatham Harbor, MA) and why do they persist and grow? What

physics determine the stability of tidal inlets, particularly when more than one tidal inlet is

present? How does sand bypass tidal inlets, and what are the proper management

strategies for encouraging bypassing in heavily engineered inlets? What are the

hydrodynamic controls that tidal inlets exert on bay/ocean exchange of materials, and how

do these affect the health of the protected embayment? How is climate change going to

alter the hydrodynamic balances within tidal inlets, and their distribution? These and

many other questions, most having significant engineering and social consequences, are

left to be answered by future research.

IV

1970's--the General Investigation of Tidal Inlets (GITI). This major engineering effort

on tidal inlets provided many improvements in understanding and prediction of tidal inlet

processes, yet recognized the need for ongoing research to resolve the myriad of

remaining uncertainties in prediction of tidal inlet behavior. Since the GITI, support for

research on tidal inlets has been languishing due to a lack of both directed funding and a

dedicated research program. This situation has led to disjointed efforts by a number of

scientists and engineers who have strived to persevere in this research arena.

This volume is a compendium of scientific papers presenting research on tidal

inlets performed over the past few years, written by researchers from a variety of

different discip,lines and locations in the United States. The papers originally were

presented at an International Symposium on Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of

Tidal Inlets, held at Woods Hole, MA, in December, 1986, and sponsored by the U.S.

Army Waterways Experiment Station's Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC),

the Woods Hole Sea Grant Program, and the Woods Hole Coastal Research Center.

Following the symposium, the authors submitted articles which were distributed for peer

review, rewritten, and subsequently published in this volume.

This volume consists of five sections. The first section, mathematical modeling,

includes a review of tidal inlet hydrodynamics by J. van de Kreeke, followed by an

analytical model of tidal inlet filters, and three articles on the application of CERC's

numerical models to tidal inlet problems. The second section on observations of inlet

hydrodynamics includes four articles on observations of tidal inlet filtering processes and

a discussion of new instrumentation for monitoring Lagrangian flows in tidal inlets. The

third section consists of five articles on sediments and morphology of tidal inlets,

including a variety of space and time scales. The fourth section examines tidal deltas, a

major engineering and scientific concern. The volume finishes with articles discussing

the processes and policies pertaining to sedimentation near tidal inlets, and the impacts of

shore protection and dredging projects on beaches near tidal inlets.

A major objective of this symposium was to provide a broad overview of present­

day tidal inlet research. However, we realize that this volume falls short in answering

some of the major questions associated with tidal inlets such as: Why are new inlets

formed (such as at Chatham Harbor, MA) and why do they persist and grow? What

physics determine the stability of tidal inlets, particularly when more than one tidal inlet is

present? How does sand bypass tidal inlets, and what are the proper management

strategies for encouraging bypassing in heavily engineered inlets? What are the

hydrodynamic controls that tidal inlets exert on bay/ocean exchange of materials, and how

do these affect the health of the protected embayment? How is climate change going to

alter the hydrodynamic balances within tidal inlets, and their distribution? These and

many other questions, most having significant engineering and social consequences, are

left to be answered by future research.

v

Tidal inlets exert considerable control on exchange processes between land and

the waters of our continental shelves. As a major component of the land/sea interrace, the

importance of tidal inlets must be recognized and appropriate effort must be focused on

their study. It is our hope that this volume and other related efforts catalyze the

international research and funding infrastructure towards developing a long-term program

in tidal inlet research to address some of these major issues.

Many people contributed to the success of the symposium and this book. First,

we must thank Pamela Barrows who organized and ran the symposium, perrormed many

of the organizational tasks for the editors, typed and did page layout for each manuscript

for publication in die symposium volume while corresponding with each contributor, and

made all arrangements for publication. Without her efforts, this volume would not have

reached press. We also wish to thank Dr. David Duane and Mr. Lee Butler for their help

in organizing and carrying out the symposium, and for their editorial assistance on some

of the manuscripts. The support of the Coastal Research Center at Woods Hole in the

final months of manuscript preparation are acknowledged. We also wish to thank those

many other individuals who helped in the symposium and publication process. The

efforts of all authors to meet publication deadlines are appreciated by the editors.

David G. Aubrey Woods Hole, MA

LeeWeishar Vicksburg, MS

v

Tidal inlets exert considerable control on exchange processes between land and

the waters of our continental shelves. As a major component of the land/sea interrace, the

importance of tidal inlets must be recognized and appropriate effort must be focused on

their study. It is our hope that this volume and other related efforts catalyze the

international research and funding infrastructure towards developing a long-term program

in tidal inlet research to address some of these major issues.

Many people contributed to the success of the symposium and this book. First,

we must thank Pamela Barrows who organized and ran the symposium, perrormed many

of the organizational tasks for the editors, typed and did page layout for each manuscript

for publication in die symposium volume while corresponding with each contributor, and

made all arrangements for publication. Without her efforts, this volume would not have

reached press. We also wish to thank Dr. David Duane and Mr. Lee Butler for their help

in organizing and carrying out the symposium, and for their editorial assistance on some

of the manuscripts. The support of the Coastal Research Center at Woods Hole in the

final months of manuscript preparation are acknowledged. We also wish to thank those

many other individuals who helped in the symposium and publication process. The

efforts of all authors to meet publication deadlines are appreciated by the editors.

David G. Aubrey Woods Hole, MA

LeeWeishar Vicksburg, MS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Preface

I Mathematical Modeling of Tidal Inlet Hydrodynamics

Hydrodynamics of Tidal Inlets .. ·· .................. ·•····•····•·· ...... •.· ...... ··............................ 1 J. van de Kreeke

The Overtide and Filtering Response of Small Inlet/Bay Systems................. 24 Joseph L. DiLorenzo

Development and Application of Coastal and Inlet Processes Modeling System .......................................................................................................... 54 S. Rao Vemulakonda, James R. Houston and Abhimanyu Swain

Effects of Man-Made Channels on Estuaries: An Example, Apalachicola Bay, Florida ................. · .............................................. 71 Donald C. Raney

Port of Miami Inlet Dynamics ............................. ~................................................... 88 A. Swain

II Observations of Tidal Inlet Hydrodynamics

Seasonal Climatology of Tidal Non-Linearities in a Shallow Estuary .........• 103 David G. Aubrey and Carl T. Friedrichs

Temporal Variation of Shallow-Water Tides in Basin-Inlet Systems ........... 125 JohnD. Boon

Small-Scale Inlets as Tidal Filters ........................................................................... 137 John A. Moody

Enhancement of Semidiurnal Tidal Currents in the Tidal Inlets to Mississippi Sound ............................................ ···•· .. · .•....•.•.••...•...•..............•..•......•...... 157 Harvey E. Seim and James E. Sneed

DARTS (Digital Automated Radar Tracking System) Application to Tidal Inlet Hydrodynamic Studies .............................................. 169 G. A. Meadows, L. A. Meadows, L. L. Weishar and M. L. Fields

III Sediment Dynamics and Morphology of Tidal Inlets

Shoreline Erosional-Depositional Processes Associated with Tidal Inlets··.· .... ····· ...• ·.·······•········•······•·· .. ··......................•..........••................... 186 Duncan M. FitzGerald

Stability of Tidal Inlet Navigation Channels and Adjacent Dredge Spoil Islands· ... · ...••... •··· .. •···•········· .. ······•··········...........•............. 226 Georges Drapeau

Observations of Suspended Sediment Flux Over a Tidal Cycle in the Region of the Turbidity Maximum of the Upper St. Lawrence River Estuary···························· .. ····················...... 245 P. F. Hamblin, K. R. Lum,M. E. Comba and K. L. E. Kaiser

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Preface

I Mathematical Modeling of Tidal Inlet Hydrodynamics

Hydrodynamics of Tidal Inlets .. ·· .................. ·•····•····•·· ...... •.· ...... ··............................ 1 J. van de Kreeke

The Overtide and Filtering Response of Small Inlet/Bay Systems................. 24 Joseph L. DiLorenzo

Development and Application of Coastal and Inlet Processes Modeling System .......................................................................................................... 54 S. Rao Vemulakonda, James R. Houston and Abhimanyu Swain

Effects of Man-Made Channels on Estuaries: An Example, Apalachicola Bay, Florida ................. · .............................................. 71 Donald C. Raney

Port of Miami Inlet Dynamics ............................. ~................................................... 88 A. Swain

II Observations of Tidal Inlet Hydrodynamics

Seasonal Climatology of Tidal Non-Linearities in a Shallow Estuary .........• 103 David G. Aubrey and Carl T. Friedrichs

Temporal Variation of Shallow-Water Tides in Basin-Inlet Systems ........... 125 JohnD. Boon

Small-Scale Inlets as Tidal Filters ........................................................................... 137 John A. Moody

Enhancement of Semidiurnal Tidal Currents in the Tidal Inlets to Mississippi Sound ............................................ ···•· .. · .•....•.•.••...•...•..............•..•......•...... 157 Harvey E. Seim and James E. Sneed

DARTS (Digital Automated Radar Tracking System) Application to Tidal Inlet Hydrodynamic Studies .............................................. 169 G. A. Meadows, L. A. Meadows, L. L. Weishar and M. L. Fields

III Sediment Dynamics and Morphology of Tidal Inlets

Shoreline Erosional-Depositional Processes Associated with Tidal Inlets··.· .... ····· ...• ·.·······•········•······•·· .. ··......................•..........••................... 186 Duncan M. FitzGerald

Stability of Tidal Inlet Navigation Channels and Adjacent Dredge Spoil Islands· ... · ...••... •··· .. •···•········· .. ······•··········...........•............. 226 Georges Drapeau

Observations of Suspended Sediment Flux Over a Tidal Cycle in the Region of the Turbidity Maximum of the Upper St. Lawrence River Estuary···························· .. ····················...... 245 P. F. Hamblin, K. R. Lum,M. E. Comba and K. L. E. Kaiser

VIII

An Ephemeral Inlet from the Virginia Barrier Island Chain: Stratigraphic Sequence and Preservational Potential of Infilled Sediments .. ······· ....... ·········.·················· .. ····........................... 257 Kenneth Finkelstein

Cyclical Behavior of the Tidal Inlet at Nauset Beach, Chatham, Massachusetts··· .......... ······ ........ ······ ....... ······......................................... 269 Graham S. Giese

IV Sediment Dynamics and Morphology of Tidal Deltas

Sediment Trapping at Florida's East Coast Inlets ....... ····· ........ ········ .. · .... ·····.. 284 James N. Marino and Ashish J. Mehta

ProGesses of Sediment Exchange Between Tidal Inlets, Ebb Deltas and Barrier Islands .. ··· .. · .. ····· .. ·.· .. ······ .. ·········· .... · .... · .. · .. · .... ·............... 297 G.F. Oertel

Inlet Flood Tidal Delta Development Through Sediment Transport Processes............................................................................................... 319 Donald K. Stauble, Steven L. Da Costa, Karen L. Monroe and Virender K. Bhogal

Ebb-Tidal Delta Dynamics for a Tide-Dominated Barrier Island .............. · 348 William J. Reynolds

Ebb-Tidal Delta Response to Jetty Construction at Three South Carolina Inlets............................................................................................. 364 Mark Hansen and Stephen C. Knowles

Evolution of an Ebb-Tidal Delta After an Inlet Relocation.......................... 382 Timothy W. Kana and James E. Mason

V Management/Policy

Sediment Interaction at Modified Coastal Inlets: Processes and Policies ............................................. · ........... ·................................ 412 R.G.Dean

Effects of Shore Protection and Dredging Projects on Beach Configuration Near Unjettied Tidal Inlets in New Jersey............... 440 Karl F. Nordstrom

VIII

An Ephemeral Inlet from the Virginia Barrier Island Chain: Stratigraphic Sequence and Preservational Potential of Infilled Sediments .. ······· ....... ·········.·················· .. ····........................... 257 Kenneth Finkelstein

Cyclical Behavior of the Tidal Inlet at Nauset Beach, Chatham, Massachusetts··· .......... ······ ........ ······ ....... ······......................................... 269 Graham S. Giese

IV Sediment Dynamics and Morphology of Tidal Deltas

Sediment Trapping at Florida's East Coast Inlets ....... ····· ........ ········ .. · .... ·····.. 284 James N. Marino and Ashish J. Mehta

ProGesses of Sediment Exchange Between Tidal Inlets, Ebb Deltas and Barrier Islands .. ··· .. · .. ····· .. ·.· .. ······ .. ·········· .... · .... · .. · .. · .... ·............... 297 G.F. Oertel

Inlet Flood Tidal Delta Development Through Sediment Transport Processes............................................................................................... 319 Donald K. Stauble, Steven L. Da Costa, Karen L. Monroe and Virender K. Bhogal

Ebb-Tidal Delta Dynamics for a Tide-Dominated Barrier Island .............. · 348 William J. Reynolds

Ebb-Tidal Delta Response to Jetty Construction at Three South Carolina Inlets............................................................................................. 364 Mark Hansen and Stephen C. Knowles

Evolution of an Ebb-Tidal Delta After an Inlet Relocation.......................... 382 Timothy W. Kana and James E. Mason

V Management/Policy

Sediment Interaction at Modified Coastal Inlets: Processes and Policies ............................................. · ........... ·................................ 412 R.G.Dean

Effects of Shore Protection and Dredging Projects on Beach Configuration Near Unjettied Tidal Inlets in New Jersey............... 440 Karl F. Nordstrom

CONTRIBUTORS

David G. Aubrey Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Woods Hole, MA 02543

Vlrender K. Bhogal Department of Oceanography

and Ocean Engineering Florida Institute of Technology Melbourne, FL 32901

John D. Boon Virginia Institute of Marine Science and School of Marine Science College of William and Mary Gloucester Point, V A 23062

M.E. Comba Lakes Research Branch National Water Research Institute Canada Centre for Inland Waters Burlington, Ontario Canada L 7R 4A6

Steven L. Da Costa Department of Oceanography

and Ocean Engineering Florida Institute of Technology Melbourne, FL 32901

R.G. Dean Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering

Department University of Florida 336 Well Hall Gainesville, FL 32611

Joseph L. DILorenzo Najarian & Associates, Inc. One Industrial Way West Eatontown, NJ 07724

Georges Drapeau INRS-Oceanologle Unlverslte du Quebec Rlmouskl, (Quebec), Canada, G5L 3Al

M.L. Fields Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

Kenneth Finkelstein Virginia Institute of Marine Science Gloucester Point, V A 23062

Duncan M. FitzGerald Department of Geology Boston University Boston, MA 02215

Carl T. Friedrichs Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Woods Hole, MA 02543

Graham S. Giese Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Woods Hole, MA 02543

P.F. Hamblin Lakes Research Branch National Water Research Institute Canada Centre for Inland Waters Burlington, Ontario Canada L7R 4A6

Mark E. Hansen Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

James R. Houston Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

K.L.E. Kaiser National Water Research Institute Canada Centre for Inland Waters Burlington, Ontario, Canada L 7R 4A6

Timothy W. Kana Coastal Science & Engineering, Inc. P.O. Box 8056 Columbia, SC 29202

Stephen C. Knowles Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

K.R. Lum Lakes Research Branch National Water Research Institute Canada Centre for Inland Waters Burlington, Ontario Canada L7R 4A6

James N. Marino Coastal Engineering Researoh Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

James E. Mason Department of Geology, University of South Carolina Columbia, SC 29208

G.A. Meadows Department of Naval Architecture

and Marine Engineering The University of Michigan Ann Arbor, MI 48106

L.A. Meadows Department of Naval Architecture

and Marine Engineering The University of Michigan Ann Arbor, MI 48106

CONTRIBUTORS

David G. Aubrey Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Woods Hole, MA 02543

Vlrender K. Bhogal Department of Oceanography

and Ocean Engineering Florida Institute of Technology Melbourne, FL 32901

John D. Boon Virginia Institute of Marine Science and School of Marine Science College of William and Mary Gloucester Point, V A 23062

M.E. Comba Lakes Research Branch National Water Research Institute Canada Centre for Inland Waters Burlington, Ontario Canada L 7R 4A6

Steven L. Da Costa Department of Oceanography

and Ocean Engineering Florida Institute of Technology Melbourne, FL 32901

R.G. Dean Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering

Department University of Florida 336 Well Hall Gainesville, FL 32611

Joseph L. DILorenzo Najarian & Associates, Inc. One Industrial Way West Eatontown, NJ 07724

Georges Drapeau INRS-Oceanologle Unlverslte du Quebec Rlmouskl, (Quebec), Canada, G5L 3Al

M.L. Fields Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

Kenneth Finkelstein Virginia Institute of Marine Science Gloucester Point, V A 23062

Duncan M. FitzGerald Department of Geology Boston University Boston, MA 02215

Carl T. Friedrichs Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Woods Hole, MA 02543

Graham S. Giese Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Woods Hole, MA 02543

P.F. Hamblin Lakes Research Branch National Water Research Institute Canada Centre for Inland Waters Burlington, Ontario Canada L7R 4A6

Mark E. Hansen Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

James R. Houston Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

K.L.E. Kaiser National Water Research Institute Canada Centre for Inland Waters Burlington, Ontario, Canada L 7R 4A6

Timothy W. Kana Coastal Science & Engineering, Inc. P.O. Box 8056 Columbia, SC 29202

Stephen C. Knowles Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

K.R. Lum Lakes Research Branch National Water Research Institute Canada Centre for Inland Waters Burlington, Ontario Canada L7R 4A6

James N. Marino Coastal Engineering Researoh Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

James E. Mason Department of Geology, University of South Carolina Columbia, SC 29208

G.A. Meadows Department of Naval Architecture

and Marine Engineering The University of Michigan Ann Arbor, MI 48106

L.A. Meadows Department of Naval Architecture

and Marine Engineering The University of Michigan Ann Arbor, MI 48106

Ashlsh J. Mehta Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering

Department Unbentiy ~ F~rlda

Gainesville, FL 32611

Karen L. Monroe Department of Oceanography

and Ocean Engineering Florida Insttiute of Technology Melhourne, FL 32901

John A. Moody U.S. Geological Survey Mall Stop 413 P.O. Box 25046 Denver Federal Center Lakewood, CO 80225

Karl F. Nordstrom Center for Coastal and Environmental

Studies Rutgers The State University of New Jersey New Brunswick, NJ 08903

G.F. Oertel, Director Barrier Island Program Department of Oceanography Old Dominion Unlverstiy NorfOlk, V A 23508

Donald C. Raney Professor of Engineering Mechanics The University of Alabama Tuscaloosa, AL 35487-2908

William J. Reynolds Department of Geography and Computer

Science United States Military Academy West Point, NY 10996-1695

Harvey E. Selm APL 1013 NE 41st Street Seattle, W A 98105

James E. Sneed 1- Belle W. Baruch Institute for Marine Biology and Coastal Research University ot South Carolina Columbia, SC 29208

Donald K. Stauble Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

A. Swain Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

x

J. van de Kreeke Division of Applied Marine l'i).yslcs Rosenstlel School of Marine aud Atmospheric

Science University of Miami 4600 Rickenbacker Causeway Miami, FL 33149

S. Rao Vemulakonda Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS

L.L. Welshar

39180

Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

Ashlsh J. Mehta Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering

Department Unbentiy ~ F~rlda

Gainesville, FL 32611

Karen L. Monroe Department of Oceanography

and Ocean Engineering Florida Insttiute of Technology Melhourne, FL 32901

John A. Moody U.S. Geological Survey Mall Stop 413 P.O. Box 25046 Denver Federal Center Lakewood, CO 80225

Karl F. Nordstrom Center for Coastal and Environmental

Studies Rutgers The State University of New Jersey New Brunswick, NJ 08903

G.F. Oertel, Director Barrier Island Program Department of Oceanography Old Dominion Unlverstiy NorfOlk, V A 23508

Donald C. Raney Professor of Engineering Mechanics The University of Alabama Tuscaloosa, AL 35487-2908

William J. Reynolds Department of Geography and Computer

Science United States Military Academy West Point, NY 10996-1695

Harvey E. Selm APL 1013 NE 41st Street Seattle, W A 98105

James E. Sneed 1- Belle W. Baruch Institute for Marine Biology and Coastal Research University ot South Carolina Columbia, SC 29208

Donald K. Stauble Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

A. Swain Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180

x

J. van de Kreeke Division of Applied Marine l'i).yslcs Rosenstlel School of Marine aud Atmospheric

Science University of Miami 4600 Rickenbacker Causeway Miami, FL 33149

S. Rao Vemulakonda Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS

L.L. Welshar

39180

Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment

Station P.O. Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180