liner replacement (stainless steel internal components) service...

Liner Replacement (Stainless Steel Internal Components) Service Instruction

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Endless Pools D90017 1116

The stainless steel edges, especially around the propeller cylinder, are very sharp.

Use extreme caution when working in and around the front housing.

Be sure to disconnect electrical service to all of your electrical components of the

pool.

If your power unit is at a higher elevation than the propulsion housing,

disconnect both hydraulic hoses at the power unit. Use the red threaded plugs to

cap the end of each hose, making sure to mark each hose so you know to which

fitting it needs to be re-connected.

Section 1: Draining pool Draining the pool is best accomplished by siphoning the water out of the pool by simply using a garden hose.

With one end of the garden hose placed into the water in the deepest location, run the other end of the hose to a

suitable drainage location that is lower than the deepest section of your pool. A submersible pump may also be

used to drain the pool.

Section 2: Removing Stainless Steel Components 1. Remove the four stainless steel corner covers with a screwdriver.

2. Unthread the screws that are holding the side benches and rear base in place. Then carefully remove

these stainless steel components from the pool. Remove all of the PVC supports and corner assemblies.

WARNING

WARNING

CAUTION


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3. Remove the triangular shroud from the right side of the propulsion housing (if present). There are four

screws holding it in place.

4. Disconnect the throat from the housing. There are 7 screws holding it in place; 3 across the front and 2 on

each side. Remove the lower shroud bracket at this time as well.

5. Slide the vertical water conditioning grill down out of its track. Unthread the screws that are securing the

housing to the pool wall.


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6. Unthread the 6 screws (3 on each side) that are securing the housing to the base. Carefully lift the

housing off of the base.

The cylinder surrounding the propeller (under the housing) is sharp. Work

carefully around this cylinder to avoid bodily injury.

7. Disconnect the hoses from the valve assembly (on the outside) of the pool that go through the wall and

into the pool (submersible hoses). Plug the end of each hose with the provided plugs to contain the fluid

in the hoses.

WARNING


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Section 3: Removing Thru-Wall Fittings

8. Remove the lock nut from the submersible hose thru-wall fitting assemblies.

9. Pull the submersible hose assemblies into the pool and move the front base away from the front wall.

10. Note: If there is no shroud present and the submersible hose assemblies are below the front base, then

remove the propeller and disconnect the hose fittings from the motor. Plug the end of each hose with the

provided plugs to contain the fluid in the hoses. On the outside of the pool, loosen the compression

fittings and pull the hoses out of the pool until the hydraulic hose motor fittings are inside of the thru-wall

fittings.


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Replacing the hydraulic motor is not an essential part of the liner replacement procedure. However, this is an ideal

time to perform this scheduled maintenance. Refer to the Hydraulic Motor Replacement Service Instruction for

more detailed information.

11. Remove any Water Quality System plumbing connections from their respective thru-wall fittings and then

remove the thru-wall fittings.

Note: Star thru-wall fittings do not have to be completely removed; only the faceplate has to be removed.

12. Remove the skimmer faceplate and then remove the skimmer mounting hardware. Take care to account

for all of the nuts and washers on the outside of the pool.


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13. The next step is to remove the existing liner. Begin by making a horizontal cut 2” (5cm) from the top

around the perimeter of the pool. Make a similar cut 2” (5cm) up from the floor of the pool. Remove the

liner in sections to make it easier to handle. Remove top section from the liner track. LEAVE THE

FLOOR IN PLACE. This floor section acts as a tarp for any potential panel prepping.

Section 4: Panel Inspection and Preparation

It is possible that once the liner is removed that some panel corrosion will be present. This is the time to carefully

inspect the pools panels structure, paying close attention to both the top and bottom flanges of the pool panels. IT

IS CRITICAL THAT THE PANEL BE INSPECTED PRIOR TO CONTINUING. The type of severity of the

corrosion will dictate what action to take.

If the corrosion presents itself as a white powder-like texture, then very little preparation will be required. Light

"white rusting" is characterized by a formation of a white powdery residue on the surface of the galvanized steel.

It can be easily brushed off if needed. No treatment is required at this level of corrosion. Moderate "white rusting"

is characterized by a noticeable darkening and texture like buildup of white/brown residue. This type of corrosion

should be treated by using a wire brush or steel wool pad, to lightly sand down the heaviest deposits.

If the corrosion appears as a reddish/brown or "rust" colored, sand or grind the corrosion away. Wipe the area

down with Mineral Spirits and allow the area to dry. Since the protective galvanized coating has been

compromised, the area of exposed steel must be protected. It's recommended to apply a Cold Galvanizing product

such as (Rust-Oleum Cold Galvanizing Compound) to protect the exposed steel. Cold Galvanizing compound

can be purchased at your local home improvement store. This zinc coating applies a protective film, resistant to

corrosion. If the corrosion has caused pits or imperfections on the surface of the steel, multiple coats may be

necessary. This condition is usually caused by water intrusion. It's important to address the cause of water

intrusion before installing the replacement liner.

In rare circumstances, the corrosion has compromised the panels structural integrity. Examples of this include

heavy corrosion at the top or bottom flange of the panel, or holes in the panel. DO NOT REMOVE ANY

PANELS UNTIL CONTACTING CUSTOMER SERVICE. Replacing panels can be an invasive and expensive

undertaking. Very often, the existing panels can be repaired and re-supported. Contact Endless Pools customer

service for more information.


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Section 5: Liner Installation 14. Remove any debris from the floor of the pool; including the liner floor and felt underlayment. Lay out the

provided closed-cell foam and cut it to fit on the floor of the pool. Use the provided spray adhesive to

secure the foam to the floor.

15. If not done so already, silicone the seams in the panels. Inspect the silicone seal under and on top of the

liner hanger and replace as necessary. Cut the 4 foam corners to fit into the corners of the pool. Use duct

tape or dabs of silicone between the foam corner and panel to secure the foam corners in place. Do not

put foam corners into any portion of a custom deeper section.

16. If not done so already, silicone along the back edge of the liner hanger and where it meets the vertical

face of the panel. A shop vac can be used to remove air from behind the liner, pulling the liner into place.

Duct tape over any opening in the pool (on the outside of the pool). Insert the vac hose into the skimmer


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opening. The end of the hose should be no more than 6” (15cm) from the floor of the pool. Duct tape

around the hose sealing the skimmer opening.

17. Unfold the liner inside of the pool. Locate the vertical seam in the liner. This seam will be centered on

the front wall. Get the liner bead into the liner hanger track in the 4 corners first. Once the corners are in,

continue inserting the liner bead into the track around the remaining perimeter. Turn the shop vac on.

The vacuum will start to pull the liner into place. Work any wrinkles out and towards the edges of the

pool (any persistent wrinkle can be hidden under the benches). Start filling the pool with water. Continue

to attempt to remove any wrinkles. Stop filling with 6” (15cm) in the pool. Remove the shop vac hose.

Note: Pools with Star thru-wall fittings, will have to fill to approximately 3” (7cm) below the first set of

fittings.


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Section 6: Stainless Steel Components and Thru-Wall Installation 18. Pools with Star thru-wall fittings only, install the faceplates onto the thru-wall fittings. The 4 screw holes

may have to be made with a scratch awl (or the like). Once the faceplate is installed, cut the liner out of

the inside of the faceplate.

Pull the hose back into the pool and reconnect them to the motor (once the housing is in the pool). Then

reinstall the propeller. Tighten the compression fittings on the outside of the pool.

19. Carefully, place the front base back into the pool and center it on the front wall of the pool.

20. Reinstall the housing. Use the existing screws to secure the housing to the base.


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21. Slide the vertical grill back into its track and then reinstall the throat. There are a total of 7 screws; 3

across the front and 2 on each side.

22. Carefully install the stainless steel benches and rear base. Use the existing screws to attach the steel

components to the PVC supports. Do not install the corner covers yet.

WARNING

The cylinder surrounding

the propeller is sharp. Take

care when working around

the cylinder to avoid bodily

injury.


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23. Now that the swim current components have been installed, continue filling the pool until approximately

3” (7cm) below the next lowest thru-wall panel cutout. Once the water level is above the benches, the

four corner covers can be installed.

24. The next thru-wall fitting will be a suction thru-wall fitting, jet bulkhead fitting, or an underwater light.

If the pool has the optional hydrotherapy jet option, then replace the suction fitting with the provided

suction fitting. Make sure to apply Teflon thread sealant to the threads of the jet suction fitting. When

installing the bulkhead fitting add the additional gasket as shown below. Use the below diagrams as

reference when installing any of these fittings. If installing the jet bulkhead, place a film of silicone on

each side of the gasket prior to installing. Replace the existing Water Quality System secondary suction

fitting with the new suction fitting provided with the liner replacement parts kit. Make sure to apply

Teflon thread sealant to the threads of the jet suction fitting.


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Once that fitting has been installed, continue filling the pool until the water level is approximately 3”

(7cm) below the next lowest panel hole and install the appropriate fitting. Either the thru-wall fittings

will have to be plugged on the inside of the pool or the external connections will have to be made to

prevent water from escaping the pool. Repeat this process until the water level is 3” (7cm) below the

skimmer opening. When installing the submersible hose assemblies, make sure that they are going

through the appropriate panel holes. Attach the lower shroud bracket onto the front base.

Thru-Wall Fitting Jet Bulkhead Fitting

Underwater Light Fitting

LED Light Fitting

Suction Thru-Wall Fitting (Jets or WQS)


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25. Place the triangular shroud over top of the submersible hoses and then attach it to the upper and lower

shroud brackets using the existing screws. Reinstall the screws securing the housing to the pool wall.

26. Cut the skimmer opening with a sharp utility knife. Place the skimmer gasket onto the skimmer flange.

Make sure to place a bead of silicone on each side of the cork gasket. Secure the skimmer to the pool

panel with the existing hardware. Place the faceplate over top of the skimmer flange.


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27. If not done so already, attach the plumbing fittings that connect directly to the Water Quality System thru-

wall fittings. Then reattach all of the Water Quality System connections. The pool can now be filled to

operating level, which is ½ way up the skimmer opening.

28. Attach the submersible hose fittings to the valve assembly. Make sure that the fittings are attached to the

appropriate port on the valve assembly.


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