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L A U N C E S T O N

There’s no doubt that Tasmania has become one of Australia’s hottest gourmet escapes, but before you assume that all the action is in Hobart, take a closer look at the north. Travel writer Jo McKay unearths the inventive eateries, slick wineries and outstanding producers of Tassie’s ‘second city’ and the surrounding Tamar Valley.

PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON

V A L L E Y

& TH

E

T A M A RFine dining at Josef

Chromy Wines estate restaurant

(pictured opposite).

LOCAVORE.

“L onnie”, as it’s known to the

locals, might be diminutive (just 86,000 in population terms), but discounting it from

your list of worthy food destinations would be a mistake. The streets, rich in Federation, Victorian and Georgian architecture, boast charming cafes, hipster bars, contemporary restaurants and a thriving local food culture. To boot, on the doorstep is the Tamar Valley wine region, with more than 20 cellar doors to explore. Perhaps this food focus has something to do with heritage: Launceston is one of Australia’s oldest towns, founded in 1806.

One of the city’s biggest claims to fame is that two of its residents, John Pascoe Fawkner and John Batman, settled Melbourne. To this day, Launcestonians will happily joke that Melbourne is just an outpost of Launceston. Well, the outpost may have grown bigger than the parent, but when you give birth to a city like Melbourne, you must have epicurean blood in the veins. No wonder Launceston has a fine food and wine scene of its own.

@howshouldibegin

1STILL THE ONE The veteran of Launceston’s dining

scene, Stillwater (2 Bridge Rd; stillwater.com.au), is almost 20 years old and still going strong. Co-owner Kim Seagram says it was created to “showcase Tasmania’s best produce, wine and beer – some of the finest in the country”. Between the elegant restaurant, the newly revamped bar and the onsite providore, that’s exactly what the Stillwater team continue to do. Also on your must-visit list is Stillwater’s sister eatery, Black Cow Bistro (70 George St; blackcowbistro.com.au), housed in an old butcher’s shop and specialising in top-quality Tasmanian beef.

2 IN GOOD TASTE Combining food, wine and history,

Brock Kerslake’s Taste Walk Talk (tastewalktalk.com) tours of Launceston are all about championing local producers and shop owners. Kerslake is a former primary school teacher – but don’t expect to be tutored in a structured way. Instead, Kerslake says his tours are more “a casual chat as we wander around. We talk about interesting buildings, quirky stories and unique places”. Whether you book one of his four-hour, two-hour or pre-dinner tours, expect to spend time exploring the streets on foot, sampling along the way. That might include wallaby prosciutto at a local butcher, treats at Launceston’s oldest sweets shop, or craft beers and ciders at the city’s hippest bar.

3REAP THE HARVESTThe Saturday-morning Harvest

Launceston Community Farmers’ Market (71 Cimitiere St; harvestmarket.org.au) is all about fare that’s grown, reared or made nearby. Expect up to 60 stallholders plying seasonal fruit and veg, artisan breads, meats, cheeses and dairy, preserves, local ciders and wines, and that staple of any farmers’ market: freshly ground, locally roasted coffee. Not in town on a Saturday? Hit up East Launceston’s Alps & Amici Foodstore & Kitchen (52 Abbott St; alpsandamici.com.au) for local produce, Australian and international goodies, plus house-made meals.

4 WALK IT OFF In between meals, stroll to the

picturesque Cataract Gorge. You can choose the level of exertion – the gentle incline along the northern riverbank takes about 15 minutes; the hilly Zig Zag Track on the southern side takes slightly longer, and requires a little more effort.

5FULL FLAVOURChef Matt Adams describes his

eatery Timbre Kitchen (755 West Tamar Hwy, Legana; timbrekitchen.com) as unpretentious, a bit of fun and not too conservative. In a light-filled dining room, overlooking vines and countryside, his menu is both broadly appealing and a firm favourite with the fooderati. Make sure you order the wood-oven grilled cheese and devilled eggs, two definite crowd pleasers.

CLOCKWISE (from top left): Cataract Gorge; Harvest Launceston Community Farmers’ Market; the Stillwater team (from left) sommelier James Welsh, manager Bianca Welsh and executive chef Craig Will; (inset) the rib-eye steak at Black Cow Bistro; First Basin swimming pool at Cataract Gorge; Timbre Kitchen; Alps & Amici Foodstore & Kitchen.

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LOCAVORE.

6 LUXE LODGINGSStylish modern decor and bucolic

views are the defining features at four-bedroom, four-bathroom stay Relbia Lodge (338 Relbia Rd, Relbia; relbialodge.com.au), about a 15-minute drive from the centre of Launceston. With full kitchen facilities, it’s ideal for those who want to self-cater. In Launceston, the individually designed suites at Hatherley Birrell Collection (43 High St; hatherley.com.au) prioritise privacy and luxury. Three suites are in the original 1830s mansion; a further two are in a modern pavilion overlooking the manicured garden.

7ALE TALES As the name suggests, Saint

John Craft Beer Bar (133 St John St; saintjohncraftbeer.com.au) has a solid craft-beer emphasis, with more than 170 labels available at any given time. Co-owner Jade Burley says: “We can guarantee there’ll be something you haven’t tried before.” The taps feature

a rotating selection of 10 beers and two ciders, while the fridges boast cans and bottles from around the world. Small- batch spirits are another house speciality, while the concise wine list focuses on smaller independent wineries. Outside, the bar runs a food truck serving drinks-friendly fare from 5pm daily. Unsurprisingly, the buttermilk fried chicken with chilli dipping sauce is one of the most popular picks.

8SHARE AND

SHARE ALIKE The mastermind behind Euro-style eatery Geronimo Aperitivo Bar & Restaurant (186 Charles St; geronimorestaurant.com.au), Jeremy Kode, describes his restaurant in unassuming terms: “It’s a place where people can come together to eat, drink and socialise – it’s not meant to be more challenging than that.” Regardless, the menu, which focuses on local and seasonal produce from around the state (and Kode’s family farm in nearby Longford), and the casual, contemporary feel make this one of the city’s standouts.

9CAFE SOCIETY Urban hotspot Bryher Cafe

(91 George St; bryherfood.com/cafe) prides itself on house-made delicacies: everything from pastries, biscuits and brioche, to pickles, yoghurt and chutneys. The always-fresh fare is “highly seasonal”. In summer, that might mean a tumble of heirloom tomatoes, zucchini and kale with crusty bread; come winter, think roasted beetroot and fennel, with apple, hazelnuts and greens. Best brekkie in town, hands down.

10WINE & DINEOnly a 15-minute drive

outside of Launceston is one of the premier wineries of the region and state: Josef Chromy Wines (370 Relbia Rd, Relbia; josefchromy.com.au). Wine tasting here is rewarding – from award-winning chardonnays to lean rieslings and elegant pinot noirs – but leave time for a long lunch. The glass-walled restaurant and outdoor deck gaze over picturesque gardens and the winery’s lakes.

CLOCKWISE (from top left): Saint John Craft Beer Bar; the varied selection at Saint John; Geronimo Aperitivo Bar & Restaurant; (inset) Geronimo owner Jeremy Kode; Bryher Cafe; ricotta tart with seasonal tomatoes at Bryher Cafe. OPPOSITE: Josef Chromy Wines; (inset) Hatherley Birrell Collection.

LOCAVORE.

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11SMALL WONDERS

By and large, the Tamar Valley wine region is dominated by passionate boutique producers. On the eastern side of the Tamar, in the Pipers River region, stop at Delamere Vineyards (4238 Bridport Rd, Pipers Brook; delamerevineyards.com.au) to taste their range of estate-grown sparklings. Sinapius (4232 Bridport Rd, Pipers Brook; sinapius.com.au), next door, is also worthy for the charming views and equally charming pinot noirs and chardonnays. On the western banks of the Tamar, you can taste Grey Sands (6 Kerrisons Rd, Glengarry; greysands.com.au) sophisticated pinot gris, merlot and merlot blends on the first weekend of the month or by appointment, while Wines for Joanie (163 Glendale Rd, Sidmouth; winesforjoanie.com.au) offers daily tastings in an apple-packing barn.

12ON A PLATTERThe Tamar wineries excel not just

at winemaking and wine tasting, but also in dishing up moreish grazing plates. At Goaty Hill (530 Auburn Rd Kayena; goatyhill.com), the gourmet platter has salmon, ham off the bone, smoked chicken breast, pâté, quiche, olives and more – a feast for two. It’s a DIY affair at

Holm Oak (11 West Bay Rd, Rowella; holmoakvineyards.com.au) where the fridges and pantry shelves are stocked with goodies such as whisky-cured salmon, local cheeses and terrines. At Moores Hill, (3343 West Tamar Hwy, Sidmouth; mooreshill.com.au) choose between three Tasmanian tasting plates each with a different focus: cheese, seafood or charcuterie. While in Pipers River, Jansz (1216B Pipers Brook Rd, Pipers Brook; jansz.com.au) offers a signature cheese board with two glasses of their renowned sparkling wine.

13GO FOR GLAMFor a luxe-adventure, book into

Wingtons Glamping (41 Sunset Blvd, Clarence Point; wingtons.com). Each of the three riverbank ‘campsites’ has its own bell tent with queen-sized bed and wood-burning stove, plus a dedicated ensuite tent with hot shower and Turkish bathrobes, private outdoor dining area with a barbecue, and access to the nearby riverbank beach. Expect to see wildlife galore as well as a sky full of stars.

delicious.com.au/travelFor more Locavore features from around Australia.

CLOCKWISE (from top right): Moores Hill; (inset)

Wingtons Glamping; tastings in the barn at Wines for Joanie; stay in the farm

cottage at Wines for Joanie.

LOCAVORE.

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