lonely planet south east asia
TRANSCRIPT
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THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
China Williams
Greg Bloom, Celeste Brash, Stuart Butler, Jayne DArcy, Shawn Low,
Brandon Presser, Nick Ray, Simon Richmond, Daniel Robinson,
Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Richard Waters
Myanmar(Burma)p483
Indonesiap147
Thailandp644
Cambodiap62
Laosp311
Vietnamp807
Philippinesp551
Timor-Lestep787
BruneiDarussalam
p48
Singaporep614
Malaysiap379
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings
and insider tips
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Directory AZ ................. 926
Transport ........................ 932
Border Crossings ........... 935
Health ............................. 940
Language ........................ 947
Index ................................ 959
Map Legend .................... 973
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE
ROAD
s c ap er nc u es g eneran o rma o n a o u o u e as
Asia.Speci c n orma on or
each country is listed in theindividual country directories.
Accommodat onhe accommodation listed
his guidebook occupiesend of the price and
s scale. Rooms typi-r walls, a bed
keep-
it for cleanliness, comfortan qu e . on ee o ga -e o a e a room us e-cause the place is mentionedin Lonely Planet. Sometimesthe quality of a guesthouseplummets after gaining amention in Lonely Planet, butthis can be corrected by dili-gent travellers who exercisetheir own judgement.
Other accommodati
tips for savvy travel If the price iifth
Otriact
ortouryou
r brfrom
er
i
S
irectoryAZ
PAGE
46
PAGE
925
Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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PLANYOUR TRIP
Welcome to
Southeast Asia .............. 2
20 Top Experiences ........ 6
Need to Know .................. 16
If You Like... ...................... 18
Month by Month .............. 20
Itineraries ......................... 25
Big Adventures,Small Budget.................. 30
Responsible Travel .......... 37
Countries at a Glance ..... 42
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTANDSOUTHEAST ASIA
Southeast Asia Today ..... 910
History .............................. 913
Religion ............................ 917
Trouble Spots ................. 921
39 would be Muslim
36 would be Buddhist
18 would be other
7 would be Christian
if South East Asiawere 100 people
2004
An Indian Oceanearthquake with
its epicentre near
Sumatra (Indone-sia) triggers a giant
tsunami that destroyslives and communi-
ties in four SoutheastAsian countries.
2011
Southeast Asiaweathers the globaleconomic downturn
with positive growth.Massive and historic
ooding in Thailandinjuresitsmanufactur-
ingsectorand Myan-mar moves toward
democraticreform.
JOHNBORTHW
ICK/LONELYPLANETIMAGES
Tsunamidamage, 2004
Elemental ForcesThelife-givingforceof waterhassculpted
many Southeast Asianlandscapes. The
jungle-topped islands of the Malay pen-
insulaarecradledbycoralreefsthattame
theoceaninto azurepools.The languorous
Vietnamese coastline greets the South
Ch inaSeafromtipto tail ,wh ile in land
there arekarst mountains evidenceof
long-vanished oceans. And the muddy
Mekong River lopes through tightly
knitmountains to at ricebaskets. The
traditional h ighways o f Borneo are
tannin-stainedriversthat slicethroughthe
wilderness.Andthe volcanoesofIndonesia
andthe Philippinesprovidea glimpseinto
theearthsblacksmithingcore.
Spiritual SpacesSoutheastAsia bathesin spirituality.With
thedawn,potsofrice cometoa boiland
religioussupplicationswaftfromearthto
sky.Barefootmonkssilently movethrough
dull-lit streets collectingfoodalms from
thefaithful;prayersbellowfrom needle-
tippedmosques calling thedevoteesto
bendto earthin submission;familyaltars
aretendedlike thirsty houseplants.And
theregions greatmonumentshavebeen
built for the divine, from Angkorshea-
venincarnate to Bagansin nity-bending
templeexpanse.Thisis a regionin close
communicationwith thedivine.Visitors
canjoinin ontheconversationon medit-
ationretreatsor byhikinginto themist
Welcome toSoutheast
Asia
All youve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
PAGE
909
GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so you
can make sense of what you see
zHue Festival(Biennial)
Vietnamsbiggestcultural
event(www.huefestival.
com)isheldeverytwo
years,including 2014.Art,theatre, music,circus
anddance performances,
includedomestic andinter-
nationalacts, areheld
insideHuesCitadel.
zGawai DayakTheendoftherice
harvestseasonis celebrated
the rsttwodaysofJunein
theMalaysianBorneo state
ofSarawak. City-dwelling
Dayaksreturntotheirlong-
housestosocialise, eatand
downshotsof tuak (rice
wine).
JulyMainland SoutheastAsiaprepares forBuddhist
Lent,a period ofreflection and meditationthatcoincides with therainy season (southwestmonsoon).Despitethedrizzle,this is an idealtime forrural sightseeing
as rice plantingbeginsand the formerly parchedlandscape becomes
verdant.The SamuiArchipelagooftenstaysdry duringthe southwestmonsoon.
zAsanha BuchaThefullmoonofthe
eighthlunar monthcom-
memoratesBuddhas rst
sermon.
zKhao PhansaaEarlyinthemon-
soonrains,B uddhistmonks
retreatinto monasteries.
Thisisthetraditionaltime
foryoungmentoenterthe
monkhood.Worshippers
MICHAELCOYNE/LON
ELYPLANETIMAGES
KYLIEMCLAUGHLIN/LONELYPLANETIMAGES
(Above)WorshippersatSingapores SriMariammanTemple(p619)duringDeepavalifestival(Below) Girlsin hill-tribecostumefor BuddhistNewYear(Songkran) festivities in Chiang Mai(p684),Thailand
2
Internet ResourcesResponsibleTravel(www.responsible-travel.org)Generaltipsonhowto bea
bettertouristregarding environmental
issues,beggingandbargaining,aswellas
hicalholidays. ngResponsibleTourism(www.
responsibletourism.org)Online
otingcommunity-based and
sibletourismintheMekong. , cu lt ura la tt ra ct io ns an d
atured.
. .o rg ) Re ad
In Southeast Asia, tourism brings bless-
ings and curses. Small-scale tourism foster
family-owned businesses that can propcommunities into the middle class. Child
of guesthouse owners often attend co
and become professionals, accomplish
that would have been di cult towhen subsistence agriculture o
was the primary industry. To
preserve cultural and enviro
From Cambodias Angkorforests, tourists doll -
able to protect
them. T - -
Responsible Travel
I S B N 9 7 8 - 1 - 7 4 1 7 9 - 8 5 4 - 8
9 7 8 1 7 4 1 7 9 8 5 4 8
99625
(above)Woman working thefields
outsideherhomein Vietnams
farnorth
(left)Worshipperpraying atWatPhra
ThatDoi Suthep Buddhisttemple
(p685)in Chiang Mai,Thailand
PLANYOURTRIPITIN
ERARIES
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Look out for these icons:
Our authors toprecommendation
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and theirfavourite places are listed first
A green orsustainable option
No paymentrequired
BRUNEIDARUSSALAM . . . . . .48
BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN . . 51
Temburong District . . . . . . .56
CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . .62
PHNOM PENH. . . . . . . . . . . . 66
SIEM REAP & THETEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . 80
NORTHWESTERN
CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Battambang . . . . . . . . . . . . .99
Preah Vihear Province . . . .104
SOUTH COAST . . . . . . . . . . 108
Krong Koh Kong . . . . . . . . .108
Sihanoukville . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Kampot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
NORTHEASTERNCAMBODIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Kompong Cham . . . . . . . . . 122
Kratie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Ratanakiri Province . . . . . . 127
Mondulkiri Province . . . . . .130
INDONESIA . . . . . . . . 147
JAVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Jakarta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Bogor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Pangandaran . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Yogyakarta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Borobudur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Solo (Surakarta) . . . . . . . . . 179
Malang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Gunung Bromo . . . . . . . . . .186
BALI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
Kuta & Seminyak . . . . . . . . 193
Bukit Peninsula. . . . . . . . . . 199
Denpasar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201
Ubud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Lovina & the North . . . . . . 213
NUSA TENGGARA. . . . . . . . 216
Lombok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Flores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233
West Timor . . . . . . . . . . . . .239
Sumba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242
SUMATRA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Padang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247
Bukittinggi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
Danau Toba . . . . . . . . . . . . .255
Berastagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259
Medan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261
Banda Aceh . . . . . . . . . . . . .265
KALIMANTAN . . . . . . . . . . . 268
SULAWESI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Makassar (Ujung Padang) . .276
Tana Toraja . . . . . . . . . . . . .278
MALUKU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285
PAPUA (IRIAN JAYA) . . . . . 288
LAOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
VIENTIANE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
NORTHERN LAOS . . . . . . . 325Vang Vieng . . . . . . . . . . . . . .325
Luang Prabang . . . . . . . . . .329
Nong Khiaw . . . . . . . . . . . . .337
Phonsavan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
Luang Nam Tha . . . . . . . . 346
CENTRAL & SOUTHERNLAOS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
Savannakhet . . . . . . . . . . . .355
Pakse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .358
Si Phan Don (FourThousand Islands) . . . . . . 364
MALAYSIA . . . . . . . . .379
KUALA LUMPUR . . . . . . . . . 382
PENINSULAR MALAYSIA WEST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 395
Melaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .395
Cameron Highlands . . . . . .401
Penang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405
Pulau Langkawi . . . . . . . . . 413
PENINSULAR MALAYSIA EAST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 415
Pulau Tioman . . . . . . . . . . . 418
Kuala Terengganu. . . . . . . .422
Pulau Perhentian . . . . . . . .424
Kota Bharu . . . . . . . . . . . . 426
PENINSULAR INTERIOR . . 428Jerantut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428
Taman Negara . . . . . . . . . . 430
MALAYSIAN BORNEO SABAH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
Kota Kinabalu . . . . . . . . . . 433
Mt Kinabalu & KinabaluNational Park . . . . . . . . . . 440
Sandakan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443
Sepilok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444
MALAYSIAN BORNEO SARAWAK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450
Kuching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450
Batang Rejang . . . . . . . . . .461
Gunung MuluNational Park . . . . . . . . . . 465
Limbang Division . . . . . . . 469
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On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
MYANMAR(BURMA) . . . . . . . . . 483
YANGON (RANGOON) . . . 486
THE DELTA, WEST COASTBEACHES & NORTHOF YANGON . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
SOUTHEASTERNMYANMAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 501
INLE LAKE& SHAN STATE . . . . . . . . . . 504
Mandalay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
Bagan (Pagan) . . . . . . . . . . 523
UPPER AYEYARWADY . . . . 530
WESTERN MYANMAR . . . . 532
PHILIPPINES . . . . . . . 551
MANILA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553
NORTH LUZON . . . . . . . . . 566
The Cordillera . . . . . . . . . . 566
SOUTHEAST LUZON . . . . . 571
MINDORO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574
THE VISAYAS . . . . . . . . . . . 577
Panay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .578
Negros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .582
Cebu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .585
Bohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .591
Samar & Leyte . . . . . . . . . .593
MINDANAO . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595
PALAWAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
SINGAPORE . . . . . . .614
THAILAND . . . . . . . . 644
BANGKOK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 648
CENTRAL THAILAND . . . . . 672
Ayuthaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .673
Lopburi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 677
Sukhothai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 680
NORTHERN THAILAND . . . 684
Chiang Mai . . . . . . . . . . . . 684
Chiang Rai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 696
Golden Triangle. . . . . . . . . 699
Pai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .702
Mae Hong Son . . . . . . . . . .705
WESTERN THAILAND . . . . 706
Kanchanaburi . . . . . . . . . . .707NORTHEASTERNTHAILAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 712
Nakhon Ratchasima(Khorat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 713
Surin & Around . . . . . . . . . . 717
Ubon Ratchathani . . . . . . .720
Nong Khai . . . . . . . . . . . . . .722
EASTERN GULF COAST . . . 726
Ko Samet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .726Ko Chang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .728
SOUTHERN GULF COAST . . 731
Hua Hin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 731
Ko Samui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .734
Ko Pha-Ngan . . . . . . . . . . . .738
Ko Tao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 744
THE ANDAMAN COAST . . 751
Phuket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .756Krabi Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . .762
Ko Phi-Phi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .764
Ko Lanta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .767
Ko Lipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .770
TIMOR-LESTE . . . . . . 787
DILI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790
ATAURO ISLAND . . . . . . . . 794
EAST OF DILI . . . . . . . . . . . 795
WEST OF DILI . . . . . . . . . . . 797
SOUTH OF DILI . . . . . . . . . 797
OECUSSI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 798
VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . .807
HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 809
NORTHERN VIETNAM . . . . 828
Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 828
Cat Ba Island . . . . . . . . . . 829
Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 838
CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . 842
Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 842
Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850
Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .853
SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST . .859
Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . .859
Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 865
Con Dao Islands . . . . . . . . .867
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . 868
Dalat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 868
HO CHI MINH CITY(SAIGON) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 872
MEKONG DELTA . . . . . . . . . 884
Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . 889
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Bali Sea
BayHalong
Tonkin
Gulf ofThailand
Gulf of
Bayof
S E A
Bengal
A N D A M A N
S E A
JAVA SEA
StraitofMelaka
Sunda
Strait
I N D I A NO C E A N
S O U T H C H I N A
Sabah
Sarawak
Kalimantan
BEGAWAN
HANOI
Hoi An
Ho ChiMinh City
VIENTIANE
BANGKOK
ChiangMai
PHNOMPENH
PrabangLuang
Bagan
YANGON
Kuching
LUMPURKUALA
JAKARTA
BANDAR SERI
Borobudur
MtKinabalu
GunungBromo
(4095m)
Fansipan(3143m)
20N
10N
110E100E
0
10S
InleLake
TonlSap
DanauToba
ParacelIslands
Madura
Bali
Ko Tao
Ko Chang
Ko SamuiKo Pha-Ngan Phu
Quoc
Hainan
Pulau
Mergui (Myeik)Archipelago
Islands
Pulau
Riau
Anambas
NatunaIslands
PulauBangka
SingkepIslands
PulauBelitung
Islands
Pulau Penang
Sumatra
PulauSiberut
MentawaiIslands
Tioman
Java
Christmas Island
PulauSimeulue
PulauNias
Pulau LangkawiWeh
Lombok
Equator
TamanNegara
Barito
Mekong
Mekong
Kapuas
Hari
Musi
CHINA
MALAYSIA
LAOS
CHINA
CAMBODIA
VIETNAM
THAILAND
BANGLADESH
INDIA
INDIA
MYANMAR(BURMA)
MALAYSIA
INDONESIA
SINGAPORE
AUSTRALIA
INDONESIA
BRUNEIDARUSSALAM
Templesof Angkor
National ParkTanjung Puting
Chiang Mai (Thailand)
Ko Tao (Thailand)
Bangkok (Thailand)
Bagan (Myanmar)
Inle Lake (Myanmar)
Bali (Indonesia)
Tanjung Puting National Park(Indonesia)
Penang (Malaysia)
Temples of Angkor (Cambodia)
Luang Prabang (Laos)
Halong Bay (Vietnam)
Hoi An (Vietnam)
Hanoi (Vietnam)
Study Thai cuisine in thiscultured city (p684)
Learn how to swimwith the fishes (p744)
(p505)
(p648)Mega-watt city of excesses
Ancient temples from hereto eternity (p523)
Placid lake living
Remote research camp fororang-utans (p271)
culinary cultures (p405)Graze through three
Awesome monuments
colourful culture (p190)
riverside city (p329)
Limestone towers anchoring
Blissful beaches and
a jewel-coloured bay (p828)
Antique city for sightseeingand sophistication (p853)
Get lost in an
Reverential
to the gods (p80)
old world (p809)
Southeast Asia
Southeast Asia
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S E AP H I L I P P I N E
S E AE A S T C H I N A
Luzon Strait
Sea
SeaVisayan
BoholS
ea
SULU SEA
Sibuyan
O C E A N
TelukCenderawasih
SEAHALMAHERA
BANDA SEA
SERAM SEA
ARAFURA SEA
TIMOR SEA
CELEBES SEA
Bone
Teluk
TominiTeluk
SAWU SEA
FLORES SEA
SEAMALUKU
P A C I F I C
Papua
MANILA
Banaue
DILI
(5030m)Puncak Jaya
20N
10N
0
140E
10S
120E
Samar
DinagatSiargao
BatanesIslands
Islands
IslandsPolillo
Luzon
Cebu
Bohol
Group
Palawan Negros
Panay
Mindoro
Calamian
Babuyan
Mindanao
Letye
Catanduanes
Biak
Aru
Yapen
Pulau
Talaud
IslandsSangir
Halmahera
Morotai
Misool
Banda
ObiBacanPulau
Buru
Islands
Ambon
Seram
Waigeo
IslandsKai
SudarsoYos
IslandsBabar
LetiWetar
WestTimor
Islands IslandsTanimbar
Islands
ArchipelagoSulu
SempornaArchipelago
Tawi-Tawi
Jolo
Banggai
Togean Islands
IslandsSulawesi
IslandsAlor
RoteSawu
IslandsSolor
Sumba
Selayar
Komodo
Flores
Sumbawa IslandAtauro
Butung (Buton)
Sula Islands
Basilan
Equator
TropicofCancer
TorajaTana
GUINEA
NEWPAPUA
PALAU
TAIWAN
PHILIPPINES
AUSTRALIA
TIMOR-LESTE
INDONESIA
Ifugao Rice Terraces(Philippines)
Kuching (Malaysia)
vertical peaks (p570)Emerald staircases mounting
jungles (p450)Gateway to Borneo's
Top Experiences
500 km300 miles
00
Top Experiences
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Iain StewartVietnamIain Stewart first visited, and was captivated by Vietnam as a travellerin 1991 (armed with a trusty Lonely Planet). Hes now a Brighton-based writer,specialising in hot countries a long way from his English seaside abode. For thistrip he biked the Ho Chi Minh Highway, sailed to the Chams, drank in Danang andexplored the heart of Phong Nha.
Ryan Ver BerkmoesIndonesia Chapter Coordinator, Bali, Maluku, SulawesiRyan Ver Berkmoes
first visited Indonesia in 1993. On his visits since he has criss-crossed thearchipelago, trying to make a dent in those 17,000 islands. Recent thrills includedfinally reaching the amazing Banda Islands after 18 years of trying, findingthe perfect flat on Bali and being given the seat of honour at a Torajan funeralceremony (it wasnt his, fortunately). Off-island, Ryan lives in Portland, Oregon
and writes about Indonesia, travel and more at ryanverberkmoes.com.
Richard WatersLaos, Kalimantan A visit to Laos in 1999 as the country was still warming tothe west, began a close association with the country that sees Richard return-ing regularly. His first travels were around Europe as a teenager, then CentralAmerica and US by camper van. Writing the Kalimantan chapter was like ajourney back in time and a privilege. These days he writes and shoots for TheSunday Times, Independentand Observer. To read more of his work and articles
about Laos, visit www.richardwaters.co.uk. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds.
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Jayne DArcyTimor-LesteWriting about Timor-Leste always stirs up a bit of passion in Jayne.After a stint working in community radio there in 2003 and 2004, she frequentlydreams of boarding an Air North plane and returning (and sometimes shedoes). Partly its to catch up with former colleagues, but mostly its to see howthe country is changing and adapting to its freedom. Jayne is a Melbourne-based author who has a particular fondness for writing about countries that are
recovering after turbulent times.
Shawn LowSingaporeShawn grew up in hot, humid, food-crazy Singapore but later madehis way further south to less hot, less humid, food-crazy Melbourne (Australia,not Florida). Hes spent the last five years working for Lonely Planet: as an editor,commissioning editor, author, TV host, and now, travel editor at large. Devouringchilli crab, guzzling Tiger beer and more in the name of research is a hard job,but someones gotta do it. So he did. Who knows, he might actually be led home
by his stomach one day. Hes also on Twitter @shawnlow.
Brandon PresserSouthern ThailandGrowing up in a land where bear hugs are taken literally,this wanderlust-y Canadian always craved swaying palms and golden sand. Atrek across southeast Asia as a teenager was the clincher he was hooked,returning year after year to scuba dive, suntan, and savour spoonfuls of spicy
sm-am(papaya salad). After leaving his job at the Louvre, Brandon picked uphis pen and rucksack and became a fulltime freelance travel writer. Hes since
co-authored over 40 guidebooks, from Icelandto Thailandand many lands in between.
Nick RayCambodiaA Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town thatmakes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and hisyoung children Julian and Belle. He has written for countless guidebooks on theMekong region, including Lonely Planets Cambodia, Vietnam and Laosbooks.When not writing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of Cambodia as alocation scout and manager for the world of television and film, including movies
Tomb Raiderand Two Brothers. Motorbikes are a part-time passion (riding them a passion, main-taining them part-time) and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels.
Simon RichmondMyanmarA freelance author and photographer, Simon first visited Myanmar in2001; he found a country brimming with beautiful sights and gentle people whowere delighted to have the chance to interact with those from beyond their bor-
ders. A decade later he returned to coordinate Lonely Planets Myanmarguide.The many guides for Lonely Planet Simon has worked on since 1999 includeseveral in Southeast Asia.
Daniel RobinsonMalaysian Borneo, BruneiDaniel has been writing about Southeast Asia since1989, when he researched the award-winning first editions of Lonely Planetsguides to Vietnam and Cambodia. He takes a special interest in tropical rainfor-est habitats and the role that sustainable tourism can play in their conservation.In Borneo, Daniel is especially fond of tramping through Gunung Gading NationalPark in search of giant Rafflesiaflowers and watching orang-utans cavort in
Semenggohs jungle canopy.
Adam SkolnickNusa Tenggara, PapuaAdam Skolnick writes about travel, culture, health, sports,and the environment for Lonely Planet,Mens Health, Outside, and Travel &Leisureamong others. He has authored and co-authored 12 previous LonelyPlanet guidebooks, and has travelled and reported extensively throughout Indo-nesia since 2004. To get around Nusa Tenggara and Papua he took three buses,
11 boats and ferries, 13 planes, and hired or hitched 12 cars and 17 motorbikes.You can read more of his work at www.adamskolnick.com.
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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense ofadventure. In 1972 thats all Tony and Maureen Wheeler neededfor the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland toAustralia. It took several months, and at the end broke butinspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and staplingtogether their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.Within a week theyd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London andOakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tonys belief that a great guidebookshould do three things: inform, educate and amuse.
China WilliamsCoordinating author, ThailandChina first came to Thailand to teach English inSurin way back in 1997, a few months prior to the currency crisis. She then back-packed through Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos, just like youre doing now. And itwas the highlight of a fun-filled decade. Since then, she has shuttled across the
Pacific to work on various Lonely Planet guidebooks, mainly to Thailand, for nineyears. This is her third trip with her son, who is a four-year-old backpacker-in-
training. China lives in Catonsville, Maryland (USA), with her husband, Matt, and son, Felix.
Greg BloomPhilippinesGreg lived in Manila for five years before moving to Cambodia in2009. Travelling the Philippines for Lonely Planet, Greg has fallen offa tricycle,flown out of a jeepney, and survived a bus crash on the back roads of Bicol. Butmostly its been good. When not writing about Southeast Asia, Greg might befound snouting around the former Soviet Union (he once called Kyiv home) orrunning around Asias ultimate frisbee fields.
Celeste BrashMalaysiaCeleste first visited Malaysia while studying at Chiang Mai University,Thailand in 1993 and shes grazed through the hawker capital of the worldseveral times since on cross-Asia trips and for a handful of Lonely Planet titles.When not de-sensitising her taste buds withsambalCeleste lives in street foodladen Portland, Oregon, with her husband and two children. Shes contributed toabout 30 Lonely Planet guidebooks. You can follow her travels via her blog
http://coconutradio.blogspot.com.
Stuart ButlerJava, Sumatra Stuart Butler first hit the shores of Indonesia many years agoat the end of a long trans-Asia surf trip. Not surprisingly it was the highlightof his trip. Today Stuart lives with his wife and son on the beautiful beaches ofsouthwest France. His travels for Lonely Planet and a variety of internationalsurf magazines have taken him across Indonesia and beyond, from the desertbeaches of Yemen to the coastal jungles of Colombia.
Read more about Greg at:lonelyplanet.com/members/gbloom4
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-
able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty aboutthe accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 983
16th edition July 2012
ISBN 978 1 74179 854 8
Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs as indicated 2012
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in Singapore
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without thewritten permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patentand Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, suchas retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Bestselling guide to Southeast Asia source: Nielsen BookScan, Australia, UK and USA, March 2011 to February 2012.
OVERPAGE MOREWRITERS
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Itiner-aries
Whether youve got six weeks
or six months, these itineraries
provide a starting point for the
trip of a lifetime. Want moreinspiration? Head online to
lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to
chat with other travellers.
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Bali
Gunung
Bromo
KoTao
Penang
Krabi
Yogyakarta
ChiangMai
Hoi AnSiemReap
HoChiMinh City(Saigon)
Phuket
KUALALUMPUR
JAKARTA
HANOI
SINGAPORE
PHNOMPENH
BANGKOK
LuangPrabang
PHILIPPINES
BRUNEI
MYANMAR(BURMA)
LAOS
VIETNAM
CAMBODIA
MALAYSIA
THAILAND
INDONESIA
SOUTH
CHINA SEA
Eight WeeksThe Best of Southeast Asia
If you want a sampler plate of Southeast Asia, then plan on jetting between coun-
tries to hit the highlights. Most international airlines fly to Bangkok, a chaotic butfantastic city. Fly to Siem Reapto see Angkors magnificent temples. Bus to PhnomPenhand on to Vietnams bustling Ho Chi Minh City. Work your way north with
a stop in adorable Hoi Anand on to Hanoi. Air-lift out of Vietnam to laid-back LuangPrabang, Laos world heritage city, and then fly to chic Chiang Mai.
Return to Bangkok by overnight train and work your way south to Ko Taoto learn how todive before hitting the beachy hot spots on Thailands Andaman coast: Phuket, Ko Phi-Phiand Krabi.
Fly from polished Phuket to Penang and overland to Malaysias multiethnic capitalKuala Lumpur. Catch a flight from Kuala Lumpur to Jakartaand soak up the culture inYogyakartaand then bus to Gunung Bromo, an active volcano. Leapfrog to blessed Balifor sun, fun and culture. Then catch a cheap flight to sophisticated Singapore, which hasair connections to everywhere else.
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Mainland Explorer
Beaches, Beaches
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KoLanta
SiemReap
PulauTioman
Langkawi Pulau Perhentian
Khao Lak
KoTaoKoPha-Ngan&
KoSamui
Khao YaiNationalPark
Mersing
Penang
VangVieng
InleLake
Sapa
Bagan
Krabi
ChiangRai
Pai
Hoi An
Hue
ChiangMai
KotaBharu
HalongBay
Ayuthaya
NakhonRatchasima
Mandalay
LuangPrabang
Yangon
Ho ChiMinh City(Saigon)
PHNOMPENH
VIENTIANE
KUALALUMPUR
HANOI
BANGKOK
Bavet
NhaTrang
Poipet
LuangNamTha
HuayXai
Mui Ne
Sukhothai
Mae HongSon
ANDAMANSEA
SOUTHCHINA SEA
CAMBODIA
MALAYSIA
THAILAND
MYANMAR(BURMA) LAOS
VIETNAM
Four to Eight WeeksMainland Explorer
From Bangkok head to NakhonRatchasima, gateway to Khmertemples. Get muddy in Khao YaiNational Park, then hightail it to
the border at Poipet, aiming for Siem Reapand Cambodias Angkor temples. Scoot into
shabby-chic Phnom Penh.Overland through Bavet, crossing to
full-throttle Ho Chi Minh City. Migrate to
the beaches of MuiNeor Nha Trang, theantique city of Hoi An and imperial Hue.Rest in Hanoi, a mature, manicured capital.Cruise karst-filled Halong Bayand detourto Sapaand its highland communities. Re-turn to Hanoi.
Fly to the Lao capital, Vientiane, bus toathletic Vang Viengand on to Luang Pra-bang, a reverential riverside city. Continueto the trekking centre of Luang Nam Tha.
Ride the Mekong River to the LaosThailandborder at Huay Xai.
Slide into Chiang Rai for hill-tribe treks,or Chiang Mai. Escape to the mountains ofPaior Mae Hong Son. Pay homage to an-cient capitals at Sukhothai andAyuthaya.
Return to Bangkok. Fly to MyanmarsYangon and continue to the island mon-asteries of Inle Lake, the ancient capital ofMandalayand the ruins of Bagan.
Three to Four Weeks
Beaches, Beaches
From Bangkok, make a beeline forthe beach-bum islands in the Gulf
of Thailand: dive-crazy Ko Tao, hip-pie Ko Pha-Ngan and resorty Ko
Samui. Get certified on Tao, then follow theherd across to the Andaman coast. KhaoLakis the base for live-aboard dive trips tothe world-class Surin and Similan islands.
Skip down to adrenalin-charged Krabi,
home to rock-climbing and cave exploringand then chill-out on laid-back Ko Lanta.Island-hop across the border at PulauLangkawito Penangto balance beachingwith hawker-centre bingeing.
From Penang, bus to Kota Bharu, thejumping-off point for the fabulous jungle
islands of Pulau Perhentian. Chase thecoastline south to Mersing, the mainlandport for sleepy Pulau Tioman, before re-
turning to civilisation in Kuala Lumpur.There are even more beaches to explore
on even bigger islands. See our Indonesia to
Timor-Leste itinerary.
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(above) Woman working the fields
outside her home in Vietnams
far north
(left) Worshipper praying at Wat Phra
That Doi Suthep Buddhist temple
(p685) in Chiang Mai, Thailand
DANIELBOAG/LONELYPLANETIMAGES
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Komodo
Gili Trawangan
Pulau Bunaken
PulauWeh
Langkawi Pulau Perhentian SepilokMt Kinabalu
TanaToraja
Taman
Negara
GunungBromo
Borobudur
Penang
Manado
Medan
Banda
Aceh
Flores
BukitLawang
Berastagi
Yogyakarta
KotaBharu
Semporna
Denpasar
Kuching
KotaKinabalu
DILI
JAKARTA
BANDARSERIBEGAWAN
KUALALUMPURMelaka
SINGAPORE
Makassar
PHILIPPINES
BRUNEI
MALAYSIA
INDONESIA
THAILAND
INDONESIA
TIMOR-LESTE
SOUTHCHINA
SEA
Indonesia to Timor-Leste
Tramp Malaysia & Beyond
Four to Eight Weeks
Indonesia to Timor-Leste
Start at Indonesias tip in Medanon the island of Sumatra, trundle
to the orang-utan outpost of BukitLawang and go volcano hiking in
Berastagi. Return to Medan and fly to love-ly Banda Acehand dive-tastic Pulau Weh.
Buzz to Java, touching down in Jakarta.Cruise Yogyakartas culture trail. Daytrip to the giant stupa of Borobudur or
huff-and-puffup Gunung Bromo.Leapfrog to Denpasar, in Bali, to nuzzle
the sandy beaches of the Bukit Peninsula or
get cultured in Ubud. Party in Gili Trawan-gan, spot dragons on Komodoand go rus-tic on the beaches of Flores. Check your visaand apply for an extension before flying to
Makassar on the island of Sulawesi. Busto Tana Toraja, where funeral rituals areancient and bloody. (Stay tuned for a Tana
Toraja airport in 2013.) Travel to the TogeanIslands and the northern diving boardof Pulau Bunaken. Fly from Manado toKuala Lumpur.
Alternatively, from Denpasar hop over
to Timor-Lestes capital of Dili to tour oldcolonial towns and uncrowded reefs.
Four WeeksTramp Malaysia & Beyond
Touchdown in Kuala Lumpur, aneasy city for international arrivals.
Bus to the tranquil Cameron High-
lands and its glossy green tea plan-
tations. Follow the northern migration to
Penangfor street eats and Malaysian fusionculture. Detour to the beaches of Langkawi.Return to Georgetown and bus to KotaBharu, the jump-offpoint for car-free, care-
free ambience on Pulau Perhentian. Pickup the Jungle Railway to Taman Negara,an ancient, accessible wilderness.
Return to Kuala Lumpur for a well-planned, well-funded tour of Malaysian
Borneo. Fly to Kota Kinabalu, in Sabah,ascend Borneos highest peak Mt Kinabalu.Head east to Sepilok and its orang-utansanctuary. Swing over to Semporna, thegateway to dive sites. Culture vultures should
detour to the oil-rich oddity of Brunei and itsunassuming capital, Bandar Seri Begawan(BSB), surrounded by pristine rainforestsand water villages. Or fly from Kota Kina-
balu to Kuchingin Sarawak state, formerlyknown as the land of the headhunters.
If youre a city slicker, skip Borneo and
cruise through Melaka, a colonial portof call, and then into Singapore for animmersion in modern Asia.
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KoChang
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PulauPerhentian
CameronHighlands
Bali
FloresKomodo
Tanjung PutingNational Park
TamanNegara
Penang
Tebedu
PangkalanBun
Krabi
VangVieng
Pakse
KampotSihanoukville
Pontianak
Banjarmasin
Yangon
SiemReap
Luang Prabang
Kuching
HoChiMinh City(Saigon)
KUALALUMPUR
DILI
HANOI
BANGKOK
PHNOMPENH
MANILA
VIENTIANE
JAKARTA
Yogyakarta
Cebu
Na Meo
PHILIPPINES
MYANMAR(BURMA)
LAOS
MALAYSIA
INDONESIA
THAILAND
TIMOR-LESTE
VIETNAM
CAMBODIA
INDONESIA
Six MonthsThe Whole Shebang
Start offin Bangkok and follow the eastern seaboard to forested Ko Chang, crossthe Hat LekCham Yeam border bound for Sihanoukvillescollection of scruffy andsublime beaches. Stop in Franco-influenced Kampotand its nearby hill station. Turninland to Phnom Penh to pay your respects at its genocide museums then bus to
Siem Reapand the monumental splendour of Angkor.Board a flight to Pakse, gateway to the easy river living of Si Phan Don. Bus toVientiane
and on to Vang Vieng then Luang Prabang. Trundle to Nong Khiaw for tribal trek-king. Follow the rugged, revolutionaries trail through the Na Meoborder, a remote andadventurous crossing toHanoi.
Work your way through Vietnam, sampling history, culture and beaches. Fly from Ho ChiMinh Cityto Bangkokand slide down the Malay Peninsula, swimming and diving aroundKo Pha-Nganin the Gulf of Thailand and around Krabiin the Andaman Sea.
Slip into Malaysia for the street eats of Penang. Cross the peninsula for the peaceful beach re-treat of Pulau Perhentian. Pick up the Jungle Railway to Taman Negara, a wilderness preserve.Detour to the mist-shrouded hills of Cameron Highlandsand then alight in Kuala Lumpur.
Fly to Jakarta (Java) and immerse yourself in the cultural city of Yogyakarta andthe Unesco treasure of Borobudur. Bask on the beach in Bali, escape the beach crowds inFlores, and go dragon-spotting on Komodo. Return to Bali and catch a flight to DiliinTimor-Leste, a fledgling tourist nation.
Alternatively, from Jakarta fly to Banjarmasin (Kalimantan) for a jungle excursioninto Borneo. Catch another flight to Pangkalan Bunwith connections to the orang-utanresearch camps of Tanjung Puting National Park.
Fly from Banjarmasin to Pontianakand then bus to the EntikongTebedu border toMalaysias Kuching, a gateway to more Borneo nature reserves and former headhuntingcultures. After a cheap flight back to Kuala Lumpur, catch a connection toYangon(Myan-mar) and its Buddhist temples and isolated people, or to Manila (Philippines) and itsCatholic population and volcanic setting. Bus to the mountains of North Luzon, then flyto Cebu, gateway to the Visayas beaches. If you opt for the Philippines route, you can thenhop into East Asia (China or Japan) without having to backtrack.
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