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I will buy carefully- ancl I will not buy anything above the ceiling price, no matter how much I may want it. I will take good care of the things I have- and I will not buy anything made from vital war materials which I can get along without.

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I will wastenothing- and I n'ill take care to salvage everything needed to win the war."CoNsunrr,n DrvrsroN, Office of Price Administration It's up to you to keep the home fires burning, to seethat you and your family stay easy-onthe-eyes. Fortunatellr /ou can be patriotic and pretty both. It's easy to teach an old wardrobe new tricks, to resurrect the skeleTABLEI In The BasketWhat You Need in Your Sewing Basket and How to Conserve What You Have II Life Extension Page 5

tons in your closet and bring them up to date. Come on- take those old knockabouts and turn them into knockouts, keep that glint in Uncle Sam's eye and still do your stint torvards Victory!

O[. CONTENTS}' Cutting Up In A Big Waya. You Have the Goods on Him (How to convert a man's suit into a woman's suit) b. The Shirt Off His Back t Interesting ways to use men's shirts to good advantage) c. There's Life in the Old GirI Yet (Suggestions for women's and restyling girli' clothing) d. Junior Editions (How to make attractive clothes for young folks)

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Page 31

Page )2

How to Mend and Patch

Page 40

III

Fit For AnythingAlterations and Restyling

Page 9

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Variety Is The Spice Of Life .a. White Collar Class (Dickeys and collars) b. Smart Headwork (Hats to make and remake) c. Telling Trifles (Accessories from scraps of yarn, cotton and fabiic)

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Page 13Page 14 Page 18

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YI YII YIII

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How To Reclaim Used Wool SuggestionsFor Easy Sewing . . List Of Materials

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Copyright l942,The SpoolCotton Company

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Care of Thread . . . To avoid knotting and "about fraying, use the correct length of thread, eighteen inches, or the distance from the middle finger to the elbow. To prevent thread from unroliing from the spool, always tuck end in notclt provided at outer edge. If this notch becomes broken, it is a simple matter to cut a new one with a razor blade. Sewing Needles... Buy needlesof superior material. Milward's, made of hand ground steel, have a smoothly finished eye which prevents the thread from fraying, a sharp smooth point which does not catch in the fabric. There is a size and type for every kind of sewing. See chart on p. 50. Care of Needles o . . To preserve needles from rust, cut a strip of woolen material, wide enough to accommodate the longest needle and long enough to hold the number of needles ordinarily used. Pink the edges. FoId at center a piece of tape or ribbon six inches long, and serv fold to center edge of width of piece. Stick needles on this woolen material when they are not being used. Roll it un and tie it. To sharpen needles use an emery, a small bag often made in the shape of a strawberry. Needles will rust if allowed to remain sticking in it. Oroehet lfooks and trInitting Pins ... Have a selection of these tools in the sizes you are mosl likely to use. Small and attractive accessories can be made quickiy and easily with them. Thread . . . There is a thread for every purpose and it js rvise to have an assortment on hand. Make a list of your ordinary sewing problems and consult the chart on p. 50 to see what you should have. It is a waste of-time and energy, if yorr have to run to the store every time you decide to sew. Scissors . . . Bry the best scissorsand shears you can afford. If you can have only one, buy good scissorsabout 8" in length. If you do much sewing, dressmaker's shears or pinking shears, 8" in length? are a necessity. A small scissorsis handy for cutting buttonholes, ripping seams and snipping thread. Care of Seissors o o . Scissors for sewing must not be used to cut materials other than fabrics and thread. Paper dulls them badly. Keep scissorsclean, as dust and dirt dull them. epply frequently a drop of lubricating oil at the joini. Pins . . . Brass dressmaker pins, sizes 5 and 6 are very good. Pins of inferioi quality spoil the ^ fabric ih wtrictr they are used. Care of Pins . . . When you are using pins, wear a small pincushion heid at the lefi r,rrrist with an elastic. In this way, as soon as pins are removed, they may be salvaged very easily. Pins are hard to get, and if you pick them up and save them you are helping the war effort. A Tape Dfeasure and a Yardstiek useful and necessary if you intend to sew. are

Zipperso Buttonso and Snaps... When you are discarding articles of clothing, look at the zippers, buttons and snaps. If they are still good, Lut them off and use them agairi. Seraps of Fabrieo Thread and Yarn. .. Do not discard your scraps. This book has many attractiye suggestions for their use.

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You've no idea how quickly wilted wardrobes respond to kindness. Try the needle-and-thread treatment for that "just stepped out of a bandbox" look. Your girdles will keep you in shape indefinitely if vou apply First Aid in time; with skillful mending your stockings will outlast all their contemporaries; and a judiciousand gallant-patch wiII keep {nany a dress going to a ripe old age. STOCIilNGS. . . Many General l)irections things that can be done to lengthen the usefulness of stockings are described below. When you need to use darning thread, see p. 50 {or correct threads. Separate strands according to weight of stoching. Choose a shade a little darker than stocking as thread rvorks in lighter. IJse a darning egg. (Fig. 1). Darn on right side. To llake Stocklngs Last Longer l. Buy two pairs of the same color at one time in the correcl size, in a weight suitable to their use, and length in accordance with the length of leg and of girdle. 2. Buy rayon stockings as follows: a. Buy cotton reinforced toes-or reinforce on wrong side with cotton darning thread, weaving back and forth with small running stitches. b. Buy leg length about 2" shorter than silk or nylon-they are apt to stretch. 3. Put stockings on carefully. a. RolI dorvn to the toe and draw them up easily. Take care not to pull threads rvith rings, bracelets, cuticle. etc. b. Alrvavs fasten garters in double hem. If back garter comesat opening in double hem. set tlis up. c. Fasten lisle stockings more loosely than others, as they do not have the same elasticity. 4. Launder stockings carefully after water each n'earing in lukewarm with mild soap flakes. Do not dry near heat. AIIow to dry completely. Rayon stockings should be allorved to dry 48 hours. 5. Examine for worn places and repair as follows: a. Reinforce worn places in foot with small running stitches parallei to weave. b. N{end split seams with an over and over stitch. c. Bring pulled threads through to wrong side and secure with tiny stitches to prevent runs. a Hole . . . With stockIfarning ing right side out, insert egg under hole. Trim ragged edges of hole. Do not use a knot and make Iengthwise threads first. Leaving a short end free, take a few running stitches far enough from the hole to take in all the lvorn part. Turn, Ieaving a small loop at turning. On eacir succeeding row increase number of stitches so that when you come to the hole, you will cover it and aiso strengthen the worn part. Arrange stitches so that needle comes out over edges of hoie. Decrease length of rows on other side of hole. Cut thread rvhen finished and tuln darn around. Jffeave stitches in the same \val' across the rvidth over ancl under foundation stitches alreedy made (Fig. 2). llending Runs . . . Thread machine rvith matching thread. mercerized Turn stocking wrong side out. FoId so that run is on fold. Pin fold to piece of paper, stretching while pinning. Stitch by machine close to edge. PuIi paper apart to free stitches. Tie and clip ends of thread.

GIBIILESTo Make Girdles Last Longer 1, When choosing a girdle: .. the right.size-size of a stepP"I rn Is your warsl measurement. b. Te'st length of garters in sitting position. If they pull. garter or stocking should be longer. 2. When putting on a girdle: a. Use fleshy part of hand-not fingernails to take hold of elasticized labric. b. Fasten garters straight and in center of double hem of stocking. 3. Launder garment once a week. Rirrse thoroughly and rvrap il in a turkish torvel. I(eep it out of the sun and heat when drying. 4. Alternate wear of garments each week il you have two. 5. Examine the garrnent for worn places and repair as soon as they appear. Ropair 1. Elastic Webbing-Catch the end of each rubber thread that has pulled out and wrap it securely with J. & P. Coers Hne.vt Duty vrncrnrzED sEwrNG TIIREAD so that it will hold and then darn it down into seam or fabric rvhere it pulled out. Take care not to put your needle through any rubber threads for it will cut them. For the same reason do not stitch elastic webbing on the machine. 2. Fagotting Use J. & P. Coars Hn-Lvy Dury I{ERCERTzED tltlnEan an:l a catch stitcil (see p. 49). 3. Seams-Sew twill lape or satin fabric as a reinforcement on under side. \Yhen sewing on elasticized fabric catch stitch is ahvays best to use because it has more "give." 4. Garters-a. If only stitching has been broken, re-stitch. b. If rubber is lifeless, cut garters off and replace with new ones. c. If you cannot easily put the new garters between the double fabric, sew them onto the under side of garment and finish off with a tape or satin ribbon for additional reinforcement.

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ffiNNffiruMGLOYDSSplit seams in gloves are mended in manner of original stitching in whip stitch or running stitch. For heavy leathers, pigskin, capeskin, calf, use matching J. & P. Coer:s HBavv Durv MERcERTZED THREAD. Cr-enr