manual version 2.2 - july 2006 - ank audiokits kit 1_1.pdfthe dac kit 1.1 is a stereo digital to...


Table of Contents Section1: Introduction ............................................................................................................................................................. 3

Technical Overview ............................................................................................................................................................. 3 General Information............................................................................................................................................................. 3 Preparation .......................................................................................................................................................................... 4 Soldering.............................................................................................................................................................................. 5 De-soldering ........................................................................................................................................................................ 5

Section 2: Mechanical Assembly ............................................................................................................................................ 7 Feet Installation ................................................................................................................................................................... 7 AC Power Inlet..................................................................................................................................................................... 7 RCA Input Jacks.................................................................................................................................................................. 7 Installing the Stand-Offs ...................................................................................................................................................... 8 Installing the Chassis Ground Point .................................................................................................................................... 8 Wiring the AC Power Inlet Socket ....................................................................................................................................... 8

AC Power Colour Codes.................................................................................................................................................. 8 Installing the Power Transformer and AC Power Switch .................................................................................................... 9

Section 3: Printed Circuit Board Assembly and Fitting ......................................................................................................... 10 Overview............................................................................................................................................................................ 10 Analog Output PCB ........................................................................................................................................................... 11

Part Insertion Guide for the analog output PCB ............................................................................................................ 11 Power Supply PCB ............................................................................................................................................................ 12

Part Insertion Guide for the power supply PCB............................................................................................................. 13 Fitting the Boards in the Chassis....................................................................................................................................... 14

Section 4: Internal Wiring ...................................................................................................................................................... 15 Power Transformer and Mains Wiring............................................................................................................................... 15

Wiring the H300600 Mains Transformer........................................................................................................................ 16 Wiring the Rocker Switch and Mains Inlet Socket ......................................................................................................... 18

Power Supply to Analog and Digital PCB Wiring .............................................................................................................. 19 DC Power Supply Wiring Guide..................................................................................................................................... 19

Audio Signal Connection between Digital and Analog Boards.......................................................................................... 19 LED Wiring......................................................................................................................................................................... 19 Audio Signal Connection between Analog Board and RCA Output Jacks........................................................................ 20

Section 5: Final Assembly - Part 1 ........................................................................................................................................ 21 Section 6: Testing ................................................................................................................................................................. 22

Testing the Power Supply PCB ......................................................................................................................................... 22 DC Voltage Chart – Power Supply PCB ........................................................................................................................ 23

Testing the Digital and Analog Output PCBs .................................................................................................................... 23 DC Voltage Chart Test Points (TP) - Digital and Analog Output PCBs......................................................................... 23

Section 7: Final Assembly - Part 2 ........................................................................................................................................ 24 Section 8: Options and Part Upgrades ................................................................................................................................. 25

Options .............................................................................................................................................................................. 25 Output Voltage Adjustment Chart – Dac Kit 1.1 ............................................................................................................ 25

Part Upgrades ................................................................................................................................................................... 25 Vacuum Tube Upgrades................................................................................................................................................ 25

Parts List – DAC Kit 1.1 ........................................................................................................................................................ 26 Chassis Components Package ......................................................................................................................................... 26 Hardware Package ............................................................................................................................................................ 26 Wire Package .................................................................................................................................................................... 26 Analogue PCB Package .................................................................................................................................................... 27 Power Supply PCB Package............................................................................................................................................. 27 Documentation Package ................................................................................................................................................... 27

Chassis Diagram................................................................................................................................................................... 28 Resistor Color Code Reference ............................................................................................................................................ 29 Specifications - Audio Note DAC Kit 1.1 ............................................................................................................................... 30


Section1: Introduction

The DAC Kit 1.1 is a stereo digital to analog converter using Audio Note’s 1 X oversampling® technique. This configuration in our opinion has proven to be musically superior to existing oversampling methods. The kit uses the proven Crystal CS8414CP input receiver, while the DAC chip is the Analog Devices 18 bit AD1865N. The tube output stage provides voltage gain to allow the DAC Kit 1.1 to be used with any active preamplifier, and some passive preamplifiers.

Technical Overview The circuitry is straightforward: the digital output data from the CD transport is connected to either the 75 Ohm BNC input or 110 Ohm AES/EBU (XLR) input. Transformer coupling is used on both inputs to minimize noise coupling into the circuitry. Relays controlled by the rear panel selector switch apply the selected data signal and isolate the unselected input. The data signal is now fed to the Crystal CS8412. The output data from the input receiver is then fed to a two input NOR gate (74HC02) which sends data to the left and right dacs within the AD1865N and update data to the latch left (pin 14) and latch right (pin 11). The “current mode” output(s) of the AD1865N are used (pins 4 and 21) that enables the use of a simple resistor to perform the current to voltage conversion for each channel. The voltage developed across this resistor is then fed to the analog filter and then to the analog output PCB, where it is amplified using a 12AU7A or ECC82 as a common cathode amplifier. The output is taken from the tube anodes and capacitor coupled to the output jacks. The Power supply utilises a single power transformer and the secondary AC voltages are rectified and filtered on the power supply PCB, that provides +- 9V for the tube filament and the digital PCB regulators. Unregulated +220V provides power to the tube output stage. The +- 9V DC is supplied to the tube filament via dropping resistors, which serves to limit the filament inrush current, thereby helping to extend tube life. The filament centre tap is at ground potential, which in turn reduces cross talk via the filament to cathode capacitance. There are three voltage regulators on the digital PCB, one +5V regulator supplies the digital circuitry and separate +5V and –5V regulators supply the AD1865 18 bit D/A converter chip. These regulators use LF351 error amplifiers and bi-polar pass transistors, with special low current (2mA) red LED’s providing the reference voltages for the regulators. It is interesting to note that the type of pass transistor used in the regulators has a large impact on the subjective sonic quality. The resulting regulators provide extremely quiet, tight regulation.

General Information

No formal knowledge of electronics is required to assemble this kit, although if you have never soldered before you are advised to read through the notes given below and to practice a little soldering before continuing further. An experienced constructor might be able to complete the kit in a (somewhat long) evening, but it is likely that even a relative novice will not be able to be listening to the finished product after three to four evenings’ work.


Should you encounter any problems with the kit, please call AudioNote Kits on 613 822 7188 or via e-mail to [email protected]. Please read through the assembly manual fully to familiarize yourself with each stage of assembly before starting construction. Also read each individual section thoroughly before and during construction. This manual has been presented in a simple step-by-step manner following a logical method of assembly.

Preparation Before starting assembly, open the packaging and familiarize yourself with the components and compare them with the parts list provided in the manual. Take sufficient time to become really familiar with the parts, as this will help prevent any confusion later. Don’t worry if you cannot read the resistor values from their color codes, for we have prepared a chart toward the end of the manual to help you differentiate the values. Alternatively, a web-based resistance calculator is available on the AudioNote Kits website. Upon inspection of the parts, you will notice that in particular the electrolytic capacitors and rectifier diodes are polarized, that is, have a plus and a minus terminal. These components must be inserted correctly, otherwise serious damage to the Dac Kit 1.1 could occur. The electrolytic capacitors have the plus and minus identifiers marked on them. The rectifier diodes have their polarity indicated by a light coloured band on one end of the body of the diode, which is always the cathode end of the diode. The convention used in the design of the circuit boards is that for polarized components, the square pad on the circuit boards indicate the cathode lead wire of the rectifier diodes and the plus terminal of the electrolytic capacitors. Resistors can be inserted in any direction, as they are not electrically polarity sensitive. The following tools are required to assemble the kit:

1. A soldering Iron, preferably 15 to 35 Watts power, with a small chisel tip. (approximately 1/8” or 2.5 mm). Also, an accessory stand with damp sponge for cleaning the soldering iron tip is recommended. It is appropriate to note here that we do not provide solder with the kit. We recommend a rosin core flux solder, NOT acid core, such as “Kester 44”. An even higher recommendation is AUDIO NOTE corrosive-free silver solder, which you can purchase from Audio Note.

2. Small and medium size Philips head screwdrivers (No.1 and No.2 size) for the 4-40 and 6-32 machine screws

respectively.

3. Long nose or “needle” nose electronic pliers. Round nose pliers for bending component leads are recommended, but not essential.

4. A pair of small diagonal wire cutters and a wire stripper. The US made ‘T-Stripper’® is recommended.

5. 1/4”(7mm), 5/16”(8mm), 11/32”(9mm), 3/8”(10mm) and 1/2”(13mm) open-end wrenches and/or nut drivers.

6. 5/32” (3.5mm) Allen or hex key.

7. Adjustable wrench.

8. A de-soldering tool is also useful. The best type is a ‘solder-sucker’ (Edsyn™ brand) but a de-soldering wick will

suffice.

9. Clear silicone adhesive.


The following order of assembly is recommended:

1. Mechanical assembly

2. ‘Stuffing’ and soldering the printed circuit board with components.

3. Mounting the PCB’s into the chassis and wiring.

4. Final assembly

5. Testing

Soldering The golden rule is that solder is not glue, so that even though it is electrically conductive, the joints to be soldered joints should be as mechanically solid and electrically sound as possible before the connection is soldered. This will ensure low oxidization, prevent crystallization and thereby reduce the chances of the joint going “cold”. Once a good mechanical joint has been made between the two parts, touch both materials with the soldering iron’s tip and after a few seconds of pre-heating the junction, apply the solder to the joint - not the tip of the soldering iron. It is important that both the components, or the component and PCB pad, are hot enough to melt the solder to ensure even flow of the melted solder around and between the parts being joined, as you gradually feed in the strand of solder as it melts. You then remove first the solder and then the soldering iron. Try not to leave the soldering iron in contact for much longer than two or three seconds. If you fail to complete the joint in this time, remove the iron and leave the PCB to cool for 10 to 15 seconds, then repeat the operation. With experience it should be possible to take the soldering iron away within one and a half seconds of first touching the iron to the joint. Wipe the tip of the soldering iron on a damp cloth, or damp (not wet) sponge to clean off the excess solder and leave a thin film on the tip. This should be done before and after every joint is made to ensure a ‘wet’ tip. A good solder joint looks bright and clean, with concave surfaces, and with a slight residue of flux around it. If the wire from the joint is pulled, the wire should not pull out of the joint. It is worth repeating that unless both the materials are hot enough, the solder will not flow properly, even though there is a metal-to-metal contact. Very often a film of oxide on the surface of the component leg is enough to insulate the two parts and the result is a “dry” or “cold” joint that will soon give problems with electrical contact. If you are unsure as to your abilities, practice by joining some pieces of wire until you are happy that you can achieve the type of connection described above. You will never lose the feeling that you need three hands but experience allows you to ignore it more frequently! Thanks for purchasing the AudioNote DAC Kit 1.1. Our goal is to provide you with the highest quality Kit that you will build from scratch with these instructions. If you have any questions or comments during the build feel free to contact us and we would be happy to help out.

De-soldering Should you have to remove a component from the board, you will need to use either a solder ‘sucker’ or de-soldering braid. Removal is best achieved from the solder side of the board in either of the following ways:


Solder Sucker - first ensure that the plunger is depressed on the tool; next re-heat the joint to be de-soldered. When the solder is molten, and with the iron still applied to the joint, place the solder sucker over the joint and activate. It may take more than one attempt to remove enough solder for the component leg to be freed. It is important that the component is not over-heated; therefore allow it to cool for several minutes before re-attempting the above. Use a pair of fine-nosed pliers to pull the leg from the board once the solder has been removed. De-Solder Braid - once the offending joint has been re-heated, apply the de-soldering braid with the soldering iron on top of it to keep the joint hot. The waste solder will be drawn up into the braid by capillary action. Remove the component lead with fine-nose pliers.


Section 2: Mechanical Assembly

Components: Chassis Tray, RCA sockets, AC power inlet socket and feet, hardware package.

Feet Installation Turn the chassis upside down so that the bottom of the chassis is facing up. Mount the four (4) rubber feet to the chassis bottom with four (4) 6-32 x 5/8” stainless steel machine screws into the holes marked “C” on the Chassis Diagram. These holes have integral nuts on the inside of the chassis. For each rubber foot, first place the screw through the center hole in the foot, and then thread the screw/foot into the aforementioned holes marked “C” in the bottom of the chassis. You may have to use the screwdriver to apply pressure on the screw so that the thread catches. Tighten the four (4) rubber feet using a no. 2 Philips screwdriver so that the machine screw protrudes slightly through the integral nut on the inside of the chassis.

AC Power Inlet Position the chassis so that the two rectangular holes on the rear panel are at the top left-hand corner. The rear of the chassis is now facing you. Mount the AC power inlet socket in the larger hole. This should be inserted from outside the chassis so that the center pin is “above” the left and right pins. Fasten in place with two (2) 6-32 x 3/8” black machine screws and 6-32 Kep nuts. Kep nuts are machine screw nuts with the integral lock washer.

RCA Input Jacks

Mount the RCA jacks in the two (2) holes marked “audio output” on the rear of the chassis. Disassemble the jack/washer/lug/nut combination from each RCA jack and place the plastic washer with the ridge or shoulder on the RCA jack first, with the shoulder facing in. Insert this into the chassis from the outside and place the flat plastic washer over the RCA jack body from the inside. These washers serve to isolate the RCA jack from the metal chassis. Now place the solder lug and then the nut on each RCA jack and hand-tighten. Be sure to place the red jack into the right output position and the black jack in the left position. With a 1/2” (12mm) nut drivers or open-end wrenches and an adjustable wrench, tighten each RCA jack snugly. Arrange the solder lugs so that they are angled at 45 degrees pointing down, either left or right.


Installing the Stand-Offs From the hardware package, separate the thirteen (13) 6-32 X 3/4” stand-offs, thirteen (13) No.6 lock-washers and thirteen (13) 6-32 X 1/4” black machine screws. Looking inside the chassis, you will notice that two of the holes in the bottom of the chassis are masked over with a ½” circle of tape. Referring to the Chassis Diagram, these holes are located near the rear of the chassis, and marked “A” and “D”. Remove the tape from the inside of the chassis with your fingernail or tip of a knife. Take care not to slip and scratch the chassis paint. The stand-offs that support the circuit boards will now be mounted in the thirteen (13) positions marked “A” on the Chassis Diagram. For each stand-off, insert a 6-32 x 1/4” black machine screw through the chassis from bottom and place a lock-washer over the screw. Thread the stand-off over the screw. Repeat this operation until all the thirteen (13) stand-offs are in place, and hand-tighten. The thirteen (13) stand-offs will be tightened with a no. 2 Philips screwdriver and a 1/4” open end wrench or nut-driver at a later time.

Installing the Chassis Ground Point Place a 6-32 x 1/4” black machine screw through the hole marked “D” on the chassis diagram from the bottom and place the solder lug over this screw from the inside. Over this solder lug and screw, thread a no. 6 Kep nut and hand tighten. Arrange the solder lug so that it points at 45 degrees down and to the left when viewing the chassis as in the Chassis Diagram. Tighten the Kep nut and screw using a No.2 Philips screwdriver and 5/16” (8mm) open-end wrench or nut driver. This solder lug is the chassis ground connection for the input AC power and the electrostatic screen on the power transformer. This connection to the chassis is essential and MUST NOT BE OMMITED. This concludes the first portion of the mechanical assembly.

Wiring the AC Power Inlet Socket Components: AC power inlet socket cover; one (1) black 18 AWG wire 7” (178mm) long; one (1) white 18 AWG wire 91/2” (242mm) long; one (1) green wire with yellow stripe 41/2” (115mm) long; and one (1) nylon cable tie. NOTE: Use the table below to cross reference European and UK mains colour codes to the North American standard. The Dac Kit 1.1 uses the North American standard only.

AC Power Colour Codes

Region LIVE or “HOT” NEUTRAL OR “RETURN”

GROUND OR “EARTH”

North America Black White Green or Green /Yellow Stripe

United Kingdom Brown Blue Green / Yellow Stripe Continental Europe Brown Blue Green / Yellow stripe

1. Strip the insulation from one end of the black, white, and green/yellow wires 3/8” (10mm) to expose the bare conductors, taking care not to nick the wires (it may be of some benefit for the inexperienced to practice on some scrap wire).

2. Twist the end of the wires to form a “J” hook with your fingers in the end of each wire. Starting with the black wire,

insert the end of the “J” hook formed on the end of the wire into the right-hand lug on the AC inlet socket when


viewed from the front and above. While lightly pulling on the wire, crimp this connection with long nosed pliers. The goal here is to crimp the stranded wire with no visible stray wire strands. Solder this connection and allow to cool.

3. Proceed to crimp and solder the white wire to the left-hand lug on the AC inlet socket and then the Green / Yellow

wire to the centre pin of the AC inlet socket.

4. Slip the AC inlet socket cover over the wires soldered to the inlet socket, feeding the three (3) wires through the hole in the cover. Seat the cover so that it covers the entire inlet socket and is touching the rear of the chassis. Wrap a cable tie around the three wires protruding from the cover but before pulling the cable tie tight, make sure that the cable tie will prevent the cover from coming off the AC inlet socket.

Installing the Power Transformer and AC Power Switch Components: Power transformer; AC Power Switch; two (2) 8-32 x 1/2” black machine screws; two (2) 8-32 Kep nuts; two (2) 18 AWG wires with push-on connectors.

1. Take the two (2) 8” (203mm) black wires that have the crimped push-on connectors on them and push each connector onto the two terminals of the power switch.

2. Place the power switch into the rectangular cut-out above the AC power inlet socket from the outside of the

chassis so that the two (2) black wires are facing down. The “zero” on the power switch rocker should be on the left hand side when the chassis is viewed from the rear. The fit is precise, so you will have to push with some force so that it “snaps” into position.

3. Mount the power transformer to the chassis with the two (2) 8-32 x 1/2” black machine screws and Kep nuts into

the holes marked “B” on the chassis diagram. The power transformer must be positioned so that the side of the transformer with the red and blue wires is on the left-hand side when the chassis is viewed from above and front. You may find it easier to turn the chassis on its edge to facilitate mounting. Tighten in place with a no.2 Philips screwdriver and a 11/32” (9mm) open-end wrench or nut-driver.

This concludes the mechanical assembly of the Dac Kit 1.1.


Section 3: Printed Circuit Board Assembly and Fitting

Overview There are three (3) printed circuit boards (herein now referred to as PCBs) that comprise the active circuitry in the DAC Kit 1.1. The digital PCB is pre-assembled and tested for your convenience, and is packaged in an anti-static bag to reduce the possibility of static damage to the sensitive input receiver and DAC integrated circuits. It is recommended that the digital PCB not be removed from the anti-static bag until installation into the chassis. Audio Note is not obligated to replace any digital PCB due to improper handling or installation. The other two (2) PCBs are the analog output PCB and the power supply PCB. These PCBs need to have the components inserted (stuffed) and then soldered to the PCB. If you have never assembled a PCB before, please read through this section carefully. All locations on the PCBs that use polarized components (those with + and – terminals) have square and round “pads” on the PCB to denote how the component is inserted into the PCB. The square pad indicates the positive (+) terminal, and the round pad indicates the minus (-) terminal. There is also a “plus” symbol near square pad on the PCBs to further assist in the correct insertion of the electrolytic capacitors. Resistors are not polarity sensitive, however it is preferred to insert them all the same direction using the resistor color codes as a guide for cosmetic reasons. Diode polarity can be identified by the light colored band on the diode body and this is also indicated on the PCB component outlines. The light colored band indicates the cathode end of the diode, while the other end is the anode. The cathode end of the diode is always inserted into the hole with the square pad. Electrolytic capacitors have their polarity marked on the capacitor body. Non-polarized capacitors can be inserted in any direction, but for consistency, they should be inserted following the direction of the part designator on the PCB and the printing on the capacitor. The part designator on the PCB is the part identifier, such as C1, R1, D12 and these are used to correctly place the parts during the assembly of the PCBs. During the assembly of each PCB, a Part Insertion Guide is included to indicate the correct location of each part. Referring to the Part Insertion Guide, familiarize yourself with the various parts and their locations. The Part Insertion Guide also includes the resistor color codes to further assist you. When assembling the PCBs, this general order of assembly is advisable: 1) Insert all resistors and diodes 2) Solder and trim the excess lead lengths 3) Insert all electrolytic capacitors 4) Solder and trim the excess lead lengths 5) Insert all other components 6) Solder and trim the excess lead lengths All the components to be inserted and soldered to the PCBs are mounted on the component side of the PCB. This is the side of the PCB with the white silk-screening or text. After inserting the components that have long leads, it is helpful to “spread” the leads slightly on the solder side of the PCB. This helps prevent the component from falling out or moving during soldering. Other components, such as the tube socket can be soldered in two (2) places on the component side of the PCB to prevent it from falling out when the PCB is turned over for final soldering. If you prefer, masking tape can be used to hold the part in position while soldering.


Analog Output PCB

Empty the contents of the analog output PCB package and ensure that all parts in the package match to the Parts List.

Part Insertion Guide for the analog output PCB

Designator Description Color Code (where applicable) R17 47R 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Yellow, Violet, Black, Gold, Brown R18 39K 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Orange, White, Black, Red, Brown R19 39K 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Orange, White, Black, Red, Brown R20 1K0 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Brown, Black, Black, Brown, Brown R21 330R 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Orange, Orange, Black, Black, Brown R27 1M0 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Brown, Black, Black, Yellow, Brown R33 1M0 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Brown, Black, Black, Yellow, Brown R35 39K 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Orange, White, Black, Red, Brown R36 39K 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Orange, White, Black, Red, Brown R37 330R 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Orange, Orange, Black, Black, Brown R38 1K0 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Brown, Black, Black, Brown, Brown R41 47R 1W Beyschlag Metal Film resistor Yellow, Violet, Black, Gold, Brown C12 0u39F / 1000V Paper and Oil Capacitor Marked on Component Body C24 100uF / 400V Electrolytic Capacitor Marked on Component Body C25 470uF / 16V Electrolytic Capacitor Marked on Component Body C26 470uF / 16V Electrolytic Capacitor Marked on Component Body C36 0u39F / 1000V Paper and Oil Capacitor Marked on Component Body C43 10nF / 400V Film Capacitor Marked on Component Body C11 Not Used C35 Not Used V1 9 Pin Miniature Tube Socket


1. Locate and place the Nine (9) pin tube socket into the V1 location. This socket can only be inserted one way and tape in place with masking tape. Turn the PCB over and solder in place. Touch the soldering iron to both the PCB pad and tube socket pin and feed solder in slowly. Use just enough solder to fill the holes in the PCB. Turn the PCB over and remove the tape.

2. Using the Part Insertion Guide above, locate the resistors used for this PCB. Please note that color codes are

only required for the resistors. The resistor leads must now be bent in order to fit into the PCB locations. Bend the component leads at right angles with fine nose pliers approximately 1/8” (3.2mm) away from the component body. You will have to experiment to get the sizing correct. There are also inexpensive axial component lead benders available and these are recommended.

3. Insert all the resistors into the PCB, taking care that the resistor body is flat against the PCB and solder into place

on the solder (non printed) side of the PCB. Resistors R18, R19, R35, and R36 should be mounted 3/16” (5mm) off the PCB surface to promote cooling.

4. Locate the electrolytic capacitors C24, C25, and C26 and insert them into the PCB with the longer lead (+

terminal) into the square pad and the shorter lead (- terminal) into the round hole (C25 and C26) and seat firmly to the PCB. Spread the leads on the solder side of the PCB to prevent them from falling out during soldering. The large electrolytic capacitor C24 will “snap” into the PCB. Place the plus (+) terminal into the square pad and minus (-) terminal into the other. Before soldering these capacitors into place, check that they have been properly inserted for correct polarity.

5. Install C43, C12, and C36 into the indicated position on the PCB. Gently bend the leads of C12 and C36 with you

fingers to fit into the space provided. Use the additional pad(s) on the PCB next to the C12 and C36 designators on the PCB. Spread the leads of these capacitors to prevent them from falling out and solder into place.

This completes the assembly of the analog output PCB. Check your work thoroughly for errors before proceeding.

Power Supply PCB


Empty the contents of the power supply PCB package and referring to the Parts List, ensure that all parts in the package match to the Parts List.

Part Insertion Guide for the power supply PCB

Designator Description Color Code or Value D9 1N4007 1A/1000V Power Rectifier Marked on Component Body

D10 1N4007 1A/1000V Power Rectifier Marked on Component Body D14 1N4007 1A/1000V Power Rectifier Marked on Component Body D15 1N4007 1A/1000V Power Rectifier Marked on Component Body D11 11DQ04 1.1A/40V Schottky Rectifier Marked on Component Body D12 11DQ04 1.1A/40V Schottky Rectifier Marked on Component Body D16 11DQ04 1.1A/40V Schottky Rectifier Marked on Component Body D17 11DQ04 1.1A/40V Schottky Rectifier Marked on Component Body R5 10K0 1/4 W Carbon Film Resistor Brown, Black, Orange, Gold R6 10K0 1/4 W Carbon Film Resistor Brown, Black, Orange, Gold

R10 2K2 2W Metal Glaze Resistor Marked on Component Body R11 100K 2W Metal Glaze Resistor Marked on Component Body R22 39R 2W Metal Glaze Resistor Marked on Component Body R23 39R 2W Metal Glaze Resistor Marked on Component Body R24 39R 2W Metal Glaze Resistor Marked on Component Body R25 39R 2W Metal Glaze Resistor Marked on Component Body R28 2K2 2W Metal Glaze Resistor Marked on Component Body R29 1K0 ½ W Carbon Film Resistor Brown, Black, Red, Gold R39 4R7 ½ W Carbon Film Resistor Yellow, Violet, Gold, Gold R42 100R or 91R 2W Metal Glaze Resistor Marked on Component Body R43 4R7 1 W Metal Oxide Resistor Yellow, Violet, Gold, Gold C5 4700uF/16V Electrolytic Capacitor Marked on Component Body C6 4700uF/16V Electrolytic Capacitor Marked on Component Body

C13 100uF/400V Electrolytic Capacitor Marked on Component Body C27 100uF/400V Electrolytic Capacitor Marked on Component Body C28 4700uF/16V Electrolytic Capacitor Marked on Component Body C29 4700uF/16V Electrolytic Capacitor Marked on Component Body J101 Zero Ohm Jumper Black Band J102 Zero Ohm Jumper Black Band J103 Zero Ohm Jumper Black Band

Note: The diodes 1N4007 and 11DQ04 used on the power supply PCB are similar in appearance. Check to ensure that the correct diode(s) are inserted into the designated location on the PCB.

1. Install the fuse clips that hold the 5 x 20mm AC power line fuse into the PCB position F1. It is helpful to first insert a fuse into the clips and then insert this combination into the PCB to maintain the fuse clip position and orientation. Hold in place on the PCB with some masking tape then solder into position.

2. Using the Part Insertion Guide, locate the diodes and resistors used for this PCB. Please note that color codes

are only required for some of the resistors.

3. Starting with diodes D9, D10, D14, D15, bend the leads of these components as described in the analog output PCB section, and insert them into the PCB. Be careful not to install the wrong diode part number, as these should be type 1N4007. Bend the leads of diodes D11, D12, D16, D17 and insert these into the PCB. Continue with the resistors until all diodes and resistors are inserted on the PCB. Do not install Zero Ohm resistors J101, J102, J103 at this time. Check your work and if all is satisfactory, solder these components and trim the excess lead lengths.


4. Install electrolytic capacitors C5, C6, C13, C27, C28, and C29 observing polarity and solder in place. Trim any excess lead lengths and double-check your work.

5. Referring to the AC line voltage chart below, select the most suitable jumper configuration for the power line

voltage in your area and install the zero Ohm jumper(s) and solder in place. AC Line Voltage Chart

Voltage J101 J102 J103 110V to 120V Install Do Not Install Install 220V to 240V Do Not Install Install Do Not Install

Fitting the Boards in the Chassis

1. Place each completed PCB over the stand-offs in the chassis (see chassis diagram) and check that the stand-offs line up with the mounting holes in the PCBs. Carefully remove the digital PCB from the anti-static bag by its edges only and place in the chassis. It may take a little maneuvering to get the input selector switch through the hole in the chassis, as the fit is precise. Once all the stand-offs in the chassis are in their correct positions, place the digital PCB back into the anti-static bag and place the other PCBs aside. Tighten all the stand-offs with a No. 2 Philips screwdriver and 1/4” (7mm) open-end wrench or nut-driver.

2. Replace all the PCBs into the chassis and mount the PCBs to the stand-offs with two (2) 6-32 x 1/4” stainless

steel machine screws for each PCB. Only two (2) screws are used at this time in case any of the PCBs has to be removed.

This concludes the assembly and fitting of the DAC Kit 1.1 PCBs.


Section 4: Internal Wiring

In this section we will take care of the inter-wiring. This procedure is split into manageable sub-sections.

Power Transformer and Mains Wiring The following table shows the start and ends of all the connections relevant to the power transformer and mains wiring.

Start Location Color Length PS PCB End Location AC power inlet - Live Black/Brown 7” (178mm) L IN or L AC power inlet - Neutral White/Blue 9.5” (242mm) N AC power inlet - Ground Green/Yellow 4.5” (115mm) Chassis Solder Lug Power Switch – left Lug Black 8” (204mm) L OUT Power Switch – Center Lug Black 8” (204mm) BLK Power Transformer - Screen Green/Yellow 4.5” (115mm) Chassis Solder Lug Power Transformer Primary 1 - Live Black To Suit BLK Power Transformer Primary 1 - Neutral White To Suit WHT Power Transformer Primary 2 - Live Brown To Suit BRN Power Transformer Primary 2 - Neutral Orange To Suit OR Power Transformer Secondary 1– 200V Red 7” (178mm) RED Power Transformer Secondary 1– 200V Red 7” (178mm) RED Power Transformer Secondary 2 – 9V Blue 6.5” (165mm) BLU Power Transformer Secondary 2 – 9V Blue 6.5” (165mm) BLU Power Transformer Secondary 2 – CT Blue / Yellow 6.5” (165mm) BLU/YEL

This wiring will be further explained in the next two sub-sections.


Wiring the H300600 Mains Transformer The graphic below shows the color wiring between the Digital Power Supply Board and the H300600 Mains Transformer.

Step 1: You will find a green/yellow wire coming out of the H300600 Mains transformer. This wire will need to have ground lug soldered to it and then this will be connected to the M4 GND screw located in front of the Trans 0103 Mains transformer. Take this green/yellow wire from the power transformer and “form” the wire on the bottom of the chassis to the solder lug. Cut this wire to length and strip 1/4” (7mm).


Insert this wire into the solder lug & solder. Install on the M4 GND screw. Step 2: Take the brown, white, and orange wires from the power transformer and after cutting and stripping to a suitable length, insert and solder these wires to the BRN, WHT and OR pads respectively on the power supply PCB. Step 3: Twist together the blue, blue, and blue/yellow wires from the power transformer and attach a cable tie at the start of this wire bundle near the power transformer. Twist the red wires together and attach a cable tie to the base of the bundle near the power transformer. These five wires are soldered to the pads (from above) on the power supply PCB near the slots routed in the PCB. These wires are the secondary windings of the power transformer. Carefully check your work before moving on to the next steps. Consult the graphic on the previous page for the color wiring connections from the H300600 to the Power Supply Board. At this stage you will have the above wiring between the H300600 Mains transformer and the Power Supply Board.


Wiring the Rocker Switch and Mains Inlet Socket

The next task now is to connect the Black lead from the power inlet socket (this is the LIVE lead) and solder it into the L IN on the Digital Power supply PCB. Then connect the white lead from the power inlet socket (this is the NEUTRAL lead) and solder it into the N position on the PCB. Connect the Green/Yellow lead from the power inlet socket (this is the MAINS EARTH lead) and hook this wire onto the solder lug screwed to the chassis (position D on the chassis diagram). Finally, we need to connect the mains rocker switch to the Power Supply Board. Refer to the diagram above - as you can see, we use only one side of the rocker switch. One side connects to the ‘BLK’ pad and the other to the ‘L OUT’ pad.


Power Supply to Analog and Digital PCB Wiring If you have a digital multi-meter or have access to one, the power supply PCB should be tested at this time to ensure proper operation. Proceed to the Testing The Power Supply PCB section. If you do not have a digital multi-meter, continue with the wiring of the PCBs. Note: All wire to PCB connections/locations are contained in the DC Power Supply Wiring guide. All supplied wire lengths are approximate.

DC Power Supply Wiring Guide

Start Location Pad – PS PCB Color Length End Location Pad– Analog PCB HV Red 8” (204mm) HV HV GND Black 8” (204mm) HV GND R FIL Brown 7.25” (185mm) R FIL L FIL Green 6.5” (165mm) L FIL

Start Location Pad – PS PCB Color Length End Location Pad– Digital PCB D+9V Orange 15” (381mm) D+9V D GND Grey 13.5” (343mm) D GND A+9V Blue 11.75” (298mm) A+9V A-9V Violet 11.5” (292mm) A-9V A GND Black 11.5” (292mm) A GND

1. Start with the wires connecting to the digital PCB. Cut to the length shown on the chart, strip each end 1/4” (7mm)

and solder to the respective pad on the power supply PCB from below.

2. Bundle these wires near the power supply PCB and attach a cable tie 11/2” (40mm) from the edge of the PCB. Continue to add two (2) more cable ties evenly spaced to within 3” (80mm) of the digital PCB. Starting with the A+9V connection, strip 1/4” (7mm) and insert into the pad hole from below and solder in place. Continue with the other four (4) wires that go to the digital PCB and strip and solder into place.

3. Using the DC Power Supply Wiring Guide, strip and solder the red, black, brown, and green wires to the Power

supply PCB. These are the wires that connect the analog output PCB. Bundle these wires and attach a cable tie 11/2" (40mm) from the edge of the power supply PCB. Add another cable tie to the other end of the bundle 11/2" (40 mm) from the analog output PCB. Strip each wire 1/4" (7mm) and solder to the appropriate pad from below. Refer to the DC Power Supply Wiring Guide.

Audio Signal Connection between Digital and Analog Boards Using the 22 AWG twisted pair wires, connect the digital PCB outputs RSIG, RGND, LSIG, and LGND to the analog output PCB. For RGND and LGND use black wires and for RSIG use red wire, for LSIG use white wire. These wires need only be 21/2”(64mm) long. Strip and solder these wires first to the digital PCB. Finish these connections by stripping and soldering these to the indicated locations on the analog output PCB.

LED Wiring Install the LED cable assembly. This cable connects the power supply PCB to the front panel power indicator LED. Strip the ends of the twisted pair cable 1/4” (7mm) and insert the red wire into the “+” pad hole at the LED 1 position. Strip and solder the black wire to the “-“ pad hole.


Audio Signal Connection between Analog Board and RCA Output Jacks The DAC Kit 1.1 comes as standard with Audio Note AN-A signal cable (Yellow). You may, however, have opted for the AN-V silver cable (Grey). The ends of the stereo-paired cable have been pre-prepared to make installation easier. You will notice that at one end, the screen wires and ground (white) are shorted together. This is the end that will connect to the analog output board. Start by soldering the other end of the cable to the RCA output jacks. The writing on the yellow cable jacket indicates the respective channel, either left or right. Solder the white wire to the RCA jack solder lug (bend the solder lug away from the chassis) and the red wires to the center pin of the RCA jacks. Double-check to see if the channels are correct. Solder the other end of the cable to the analog output PCB. This is best accomplished by first soldering the white/screen parts of the cable to the LGND and RGND pads, and then the red ends. Try not to overheat the wires on the cable, as it has PVC insulation and will melt if overheated. The thicker white wires will afford greater strength to hold the cable while soldering the more fragile red wires. After soldering, form the cable gently to relieve stress on the soldered ends. Avoid excessive flexing of this cable, or the soldered connections will break loose. The following diagram shows these connections:


Section 5: Final Assembly - Part 1

Unwrap the front panel and mount this to the front of the chassis, ensuring that the text side of the front panel is on the outside and right-side up. Mount the front panel with four (4) 10-32 x 1/2” stainless steel socket head machine screws and four (4) 10-32 Kep nuts. Tighten the cap screws using a 5/32” (3.5mm) hex key or Allen wrench and a 3/8” (10mm) open-end wrench. The power indicator LED fits into the hole in the front panel and is inserted from inside the chassis. Insert the LED into the front panel and then place the two (2) pin connector over the LED leads. The body of the connector housing is force fitted into the rectangular slot in the chassis - thereby securing the LED into position.


Section 6: Testing

If you are pre-testing the power supply PCB before the completing the wiring of the PCBs, test the power supply PCB as described below. After testing the power supply PCB, unplug the unit from the household AC power outlet and wait fifteen (15) minutes to allow the DC voltages to discharge. You may then complete the wiring of the DAC Kit 1.1

Testing the Power Supply PCB The power supply is the heart of the DAC Kit 1.1 and verifying the proper operation of the power supply PCB will ensure the success of your project. The circuitry of the DC power supplies used in the DAC Kit 1.1 have "bleeder" resistors that drain any DC voltages that are present when the AC power is removed from the DAC Kit 1.1. These resistors improve the regulation of the DC supplies and allow trouble shooting and repair with relative safety. Inspect the power supply PCB for any components incorrectly inserted or damaged through assembly and also for any component leads that have found their way in-between components on the PCBs. Also inspect the power transformer wiring for any errors. We cannot over-emphasize the need for thorough inspection of the PCBs. Any errors found at this stage will reduce if not eliminate potential problems. Place one of the 5 x 20mm fuses provided into the fuse clips (F1 position) on the power supply PCB. Check the power switch to see that it is in the "0" or "OFF" position. Plug the provided AC power cord into your household power socket and then into the AC power inlet socket on the rear of the unit. Note: If you have a "Variac" or variable transformer, plug the AC power cord into the Variac and set the Variac for 20% of the full AC line voltage. Stand away from the unit and switch on. If no snaps, crackles, or pops are heard, all is probably OK. If you do hear any noises from the power supply, or if the fuse is blown or black inside, unplug the unit from the wall socket and wait fifteen (15) minutes before touching anything. Snaps, crackles and/or pop noises from the power supply indicate that a component was incorrectly inserted or a wiring error. The damaged component should have visual signs of damage. If you do not see any visual signs of damage, check each part against the parts list and look for incorrectly placed components. Remove the incorrect/damaged component and replace it. If you need replacement components, contact the Audio Note representative in you area. If all seems well, use the voltage chart provided to check that the desired voltages are present at the various pads on the power supply PCB. If you are using a Variac, check for proportionally low voltages at the PCB pads referring to the voltage chart below. If all is well, increase the Variac slowly to 100% AC line voltage.


DC Voltage Chart – Power Supply PCB

Black Probe on Pad Red Probe on Pad No Load Voltage Loaded Voltage HV GND HV +275 VDC +220VDC AGND A+9V +12VDC +9VDC AGND A-9V -12VDC -9VDC DGND D+9V +12VDC +9VDC AGND RFIL +12VDC +6.3VDC AGND LFIL -12VDC -6.3VDC

All Voltages +/- 10% If the front panel LED is not lit, remove the connector attached to the LED and reverse it. The LED should now be lit, but if it is not, there is a problem in the low voltage negative supply and this must be corrected. Switch off the power to the unit and unplug the AC line cord from the AC inlet socket and wait fifteen (15) minutes to allow the DC voltages to discharge. If you have not completed the wiring of the DAC Kit 1.1, proceed to the Power Supply to Analog and Digital PCB Wiring section and finish the wiring and assembly of the DAC Kit 1.1.

Testing the Digital and Analog Output PCBs Remove the vacuum tube (V1) from its box and insert into the tube socket on the analog output PCB. The tube can only be inserted one way. Do not force the tube into the socket, but use a "rocking" motion to seat the tube in the socket. Plug the DAC Kit 1.1 into AC power outlet and power up the unit. If you have successfully tested the Power supply PCB after completely wiring the DAC Kit 1.1, you would have noticed three (3) LED’s on the digital PCB that lit up when power was applied. These LED’s are the voltage references for the voltage regulators on the digital PCB. A small click would have also been heard, and this is the input selector relay coil being energized. If all the LED’s on the digital PCB are evenly lit, this indicates correct operation. If any of the LED’s on the digital PCB are very bright or not lit at all, inspect your wiring and correct the error. The digital PCB has clamping diodes to minimize damage due to incorrect wiring to the digital PCB. However, if the HV wire were connected to the digital PCB at any point, it is likely the entire digital PCB will need replacing, and you will know why! Use the voltage chart below to verify the correct DC voltages present on the digital and analog output PCBs. The test points indicated on the chart are also on the digital and analog output PCBs.

DC Voltage Chart Test Points (TP) - Digital and Analog Output PCBs

PCB Black Probe on Pad Red Probe on TP DC Voltage Digital AGND TP1 +5V Digital AGND TP2 -5V Digital DGND TP3 +5V

Analog Output HV GND TP4 +95V (+/- 10V) Analog Output HV GND TP5 +95V (+/- 10V) Analog Output HV GND TP6 +220V (+/- 10V)

All Voltages +/- 10% If all the voltages on the PCBs match those on the chart, your work is almost complete. Try the input select slide switch to verify this function. You should hear alternate clicks of the relay coils. Also, check to see that the vacuum tube (V1) filaments are lit. There are two separate filaments, and these should both be the same brightness.


Section 7: Final Assembly - Part 2

Install the remainder of the 6-32 x 1/4" stainless steel screws that hold the PCBs in place. In the hardware package there is an additional small bag with two (2) 2.5mm Taptite™ screws and a steel part which is the locking latch for the XLR connector. Install these screws into the XLR connector from the outside of the chassis and push the latch into the top of the XLR connector from the outside rear of the chassis. Note: Do not attach an XLR plug to the digital PCB XLR input without the locking latch, or the plug will be impossible to remove without special tools. Attach the top cover with twenty (20) 4-40 x ¼" black Machine screws and finishing washers. Please note that the cover fits one way only. If you have successfully completed all the sections in this manual, your newly completed DAC Kit 1.1 is ready to be inserted into your system. Congratulations!


Section 8: Options and Part Upgrades

Options There are a few options available for the DAC Kit 1.1. The first of which is the replacement of the Crystal CS8412CP with the new CS8414CP. This new input receiver allows 24 bit / 96kHz format data to be received, but because of the 18 bit DAC used in the DAC Kit 1.1, the data is down-converted with a resultant loss of resolution. This is not a serious issue as there are at the time of this writing almost no 24/96 music CDs available. The other fact to keep in mind is that 99.99% of the present CDs available the world over are in the 16 bit 44.1 kHz format. NOTE: Since the DAC Kit 1.1 was first introduced, the CS8412CP chip has become difficult to find. As a result, the CS8414CP chip is now included as standard. The other option available for the DAC Kit 1.1 is the adjustment of the output voltage. This can help the end user configure the DAC Kit 1.1 to match the relative volume control setting with that of the other line level components in your present sound system. The DAC Kit 1.1 is delivered with a nominal setting of 2.5VRMS output voltage per channel. This can increased or decreased by changing two (2) resistors R3 and R8, 390R 1W on the digital PCB. See the chart below for other output voltage settings. It should be noted that the AC gain of the vacuum tube used will somewhat effect the final result. The resistor values given are the nearest E24 value to give the output voltages shown.

Output Voltage Adjustment Chart – Dac Kit 1.1

Output Voltage Resistor Value R3 Resistor Value R8 2.5VRMS 390R 390R 1.5VRMS 200R 200R 2.0VRMS 300R 300R 3.0VRMS 560R 560R 3.5VRMS 750R 750R 4.0VRMS 1K0 1K0

Part Upgrades The elegant simplicity of the DAC Kit 1.1 circuitry easily lends itself to resistor and capacitor upgrades. Although high quality components are used in the kit, real subjective performance improvements can be realized by simply replacing some of the components on the digital and analog output PCBs. The first of these upgrades could be the replacement of a few key resistors on the digital PCB. Resistors R3, R8, R4 and R9 to 1/2 W AN Tantalum resistors will yield real sonic improvements. The second stage of improvements would be to replace the low voltage electrolytic capacitors with Elna Cerfine or Black Gate capacitors. The analog output PCB would also benefit from the addition of Audio Note Tantalum resistors as well.

Vacuum Tube Upgrades Subjective differences in sound quality can be had with a change in the brand of the 12AU7A / ECC82 / 6189 / 5814A vacuum tube used in the Dac Kit 1.1. We encourage experimentation, but keep in mind that the filament current rating of this tube type is 6.3V at 150mA per triode section. The value of the series resistors (R22, R23, R24, and R25) in the power supply determine the final voltage at pins 4 and 5 on the 9 pin tube socket. The tube supplied with the Dac Kit 1.1 is the Philips ECG 6189 and is of very good quality, although some might find certain vintage types preferable. Again, thank you for purchasing the DAC Kit 1.1. We hope that your kit building experience was a positive one.


Parts List – DAC Kit 1.1

• One (1) power transformer • One (1) pre-assembled digital PCB in anti-static bag • One (1) AC power cord

Chassis Components Package

• One (1) AC power inlet • One (1) AC power inlet cover • One (1) red RCA jack • One (1) black RCA jack • One (1) power switch • Four (4) rubber feet • Ten (10) 3 3/4” (95mm) cable ties • Thirteen (13) 6-32 x ¾” (19mm) aluminum stand-offs

Hardware Package

• Four (4) 6-32 x 5/8” (16mm) stainless steel machine screws • Two (2) 8-32 x 3/8” (9.5mm) black machine screws • Two (2) 6-32 x 3/8” (9.5mm) black machine screws • Fourteen (14) 6-32 x 1/4” (7mm) black machine screws • Thirteen (13) 6-32 x 1/4” (7mm) stainless steel machine screws • Four (4) 10-32 x 1/2” (12.5mm) stainless steel socket head machine screws • One (1) No. 6 solder lug • Four (4) 10-32 Kep nuts • Three (3) 6-32 Kep nuts • Thirteen No. 6 stainless steel internal tooth lock washers • Two (2) 8-32 Kep nuts • Eighteen (18) 4-40 x 1/4” (7mm) black machine screws • Two (2) 2.5mm Taptite screws and XLR socket latch in separate bag

Wire Package

• One (1) length each of 18 AWG PVC wire, Black, white, green/yellow. In separate bag (AC power inlet socket) • Two (2) lengths of 18 AWG PVC wire, black with push-on connectors • One (1) length each, 24 AWG twisted pair, black + red and black + white. • One (1) cable assembly, audio signal output • One (1) cable assembly with 2 pin connector • One (1) length each of 20 AWG PVC wire, black (2), blue, orange, red, green, violet, brown, grey


Analogue PCB Package

• One (1) analogue output PCB • One (1) 9 pin miniature tube socket • One (1) 100uF/400V radial lead electrolytic capacitor • One (1) 10nF/400V radial film capacitor • Two (2) 0u39F/1kV axial lead paper and oil capacitors • Two (2) 470uF/16V radial lead electrolytic capacitors • Two (2) 330 Ohm 1W metal film resistors • Two (2) 1k Ohm 1W metal film resistors • Two (2) 1m Ohm 1W metal film resistors • Two (2) 47 Ohm 1W metal film resistors • Four (4) 39k Ohm 1W metal film resistors • One (1) 12AU7A / ECC82 / 6189 / 5814A vacuum tube

Power Supply PCB Package

• One (1) power supply PCB • Two (2) PCB mount fuse clips for 5 x 20mm fuse • Two (2) 100uF/400V radial lead electrolytic capacitors • Four (4) 4k7uF/16V electrolytic capacitors • Two (2) 4R7 1W metal oxide resistors • One (1) 1K0 1/2 W carbon film resistors • Four (4) 39R 2W metal glaze resistors • Two (2) 10K 1/4 W carbon film resistors • One (1) 100R or 91R 2W metal glaze resistors • One (1) 100K 2W metal glaze resistors • Two (2) 2k2 2W metal glaze resistors • Four (4) 1N4007 rectifier diodes • Four (4) 11DQ04 Schottky rectifier diodes • Two (2) zero Ohm jumpers • One (1) Green LED, 1/8” (3mm) Diameter • Two (2) 5 x 20mm fuses in separate bag (1A Buss type GMA for 110 – 120VAC, 0A5 Buss type GMA for 220 –

240VAC)

Documentation Package

• One (1) instruction manual


Chassis Diagram

The following diagram is viewed from above.


Resistor Color Code Reference


Specifications - Audio Note DAC Kit 1.1

General 18 Bit Digital to Analogue Converter, with Vacuum tube output stage and solid state power supply.

Inputs 75 Ohm BNC unbalanced and 110 Ohm AES/EBU balanced, rear panel input selector switch.

Outputs Unbalanced Left and Right RCA jacks.

Output Voltage Shipped configured for 2.5V RMS both channels.

Output Impedance 6300 Ohms @ 1kHz, minimum recommended load 100K/100pF.

Power Requirements 15 VA Maximum. 110-120VAC/60Hz or 220-240VAC/50Hz, Input voltage set by internal jumpers on the power supply PCB.

Fuse Single AC input fuse. 110-120VAC use Bussman type GMA (fast blow) 5 x 20mm / 1A. 220-240VAC use Bussman type GMA (fast blow) 5 x 20mm / 0A5 or equivalent.

Dimensions 16.25” (41.3cm) L x 12” (30.5cm) W x 5.5” (14cm) H

Shipping Weight 19lbs. (8.5kg)

Shipping Carton Dimensions 20” (51cm) L x 17” (43.5cm) W x 12” (30.5cm) H

manual version 2.2 - july 2006 - ank audiokits kit 1_1.pdfthe dac kit 1.1 is a stereo digital to...

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