CUTTING:Most care to be taken in cutting because it determines the garment shape and gross weight of a garment and also it eases sewing. Cutting is always to be done in accordance with the wales direction of the fabric. If this not been followed, the garment will have more spirality resulting to the rejection of the garment as spirality is not acceptable. This is to be followed in manual cutting and lay cutting (open width lay or tubular lay). There are more chances for this spirality in lay cutting. When cutting the other parts of the garments like half moon patches, pockets, plackets and other patches, some markers may not care about this wales direction. They may mark them in any vacant places, in order to minimise the fabric wastage. But this should not be acceptable. The hems of bodies and sleeves are to be cut on course lines. Especially, when cutting thehorizontal striped fabrics or horizontal lines printed fabrics, it is important to cut the hems along the lines. As the lines are to be matched on sides of front & back bodies and sides of sleeves, more care to be taken in cutting accordingly.Also the sleeves are to be balanced in cutting. It means each sleeves should besymmetrical in striped lines. This is very important. When cutting manually and by lay, the curves and curve edges are to be cut carefully. This will make sewing easy and will save sewing time too. If the curve edges are not being cut properly, the cut bits can not be used for sewing. Markings, numbering and bundling of the parts should be done with more care to avoid interchanging of these parts. Cutting program is to be based on the fabric program. As we had seen earlier, each fabric lot must have been made according to the final packing details of garments, in order to avoid shade variation. So cutting is also to be done in the same way according to the fabric program whether solid packing or assortment packing. In case of ‘S’ cutting, the markings will be done more closely to minimise fabric wastage. At the same time, the wales lines to be strictly maintained in cutting. Also when we do ‘S’ cutting on all over printed fabrics, the direction of print designs is to be strictly maintained. Each fabric lot may have many fabric rolls. Though they are in the same lot, each fabric roll will have slight difference in shades. So when cutting the fabrics, the body, sleeves and other parts of one garment are to be cut in the same roll as close as possible. No matter the fabric is in tubular form or open width form. This is importantly to be followed to avoid shade variation between parts in one garment.

Marker:

It is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments. It gives special instruction for cutting. It can be done both manually and computerized method.

In Computerized method all information’s are stored in the pre – fashioned data file and an operator helps the computer to make the best choice.

Marker width is taken according to the fabric width. Fabric spreading should be done by taking the guideline from marker length.

Some points that are considered before marker making:

1. Fabric width must be higher than marker width (⅓”)

2. Fabric length must be higher than marker length (1” + 1”)

3. When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in a woven fabric and wales in knit fabric where pattern pieces are laid across the layers, the line is kept parallel to weft/course.

4. All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid down on an asymmetric fabric.

5. Length of cutting table should be considered.

6. Plan for garments production should also be considered.

Marker

For the efficient marker it is required to ensure the following things.

One should easily see the full length.

To know about the appropriate width.

The marker starts with the large pattern pieces. Then fits the smaller pieces in the gap of the larger pieces. Thus the fabric wastage is minimized and efficiency is increased.

After that the pattern shuffled in various directions to reduce the marker length. It also helps to increase marker efficiency.

Constraints of marker making:

The marker making is not so easy. There are many problems behind this.

Some problems of marker making are as follows:

The nature of the fabric and desired shape and style of the garments.

The requirements of quality of cutting.

The requirements of production planning.

Methods of Marker Making:

1. Manual Method

2. Computerized Method.

1. Manual Method:

a. Marker Planning with size pattern:

In this method, all patterns are in full dimension according to standard measurement.

Hard patterns are placed on paper on fabric and then all patterns are marked by turning different direction to minimize the fabric usages.

The tables, on which the markers are placed, are arranged in such a way so that they do not tilt.

Vacuum system is arranged under the table for suction.

It is suitable for minimizing the marker length.

b. Marker with minimized pattern:

Full sized patterns are minimized 1/5 part by a pantograph and the patterns are made up of hard paper or plastic sheet.

Marker is planned with small pattern pieces.

After making, snaps are taken by camera.

The covered area of pattern in marker is measured by planimeter.

The marker efficiency is measured by marker area and fabric area calculation.

Marker Photograph and miniature markers are stored.

2. Computerized marker making method:

This is the best method of marker making as it generally gives higher efficiency.

In this method every components of the patterns are kept in the memory of the computer and grade rule is also mentioned.

Then the computer makes the marker by its pre fashioned programming technique.

The information of patterns can be stored bye different manners.

1) Digitizing system.

2) Scanning system.

Computerized Marker Making

1. Digitizing System:

In this process patterns are placed in the digitizing board.

Every portion of the components is send to the memory of the computer by clicking special mouse around the pieces.

The mouse called digitizing mouse.

2. Scanning system:

This is special type of machine like photocopier. Here the following things are done.

Working patterns are placed on the scanning glass and then marker is made in a selected size.

Grade rule is used for making other sizes.

Digitizing

Computerized method is method is of two types:

1. Automatic marker making:

In this process computer itself the different pattern pieces and thus marker is made by defining the placement of the components.

2. Interactive method:

It is a common process; here the operators plan markers by interacting directly with the system through a computer screen.

All the pattern pieces are displayed in the miniature form at the top of the screen.

They are dragged and draped to the predetermined place by data pen or tablet.

Methods of drawing and duplicating marker:

Multiple copies of the paper marker are usually needed in for huge production. Therefore, several copies are done. These copies can either be made when

marker plan is first drawn or marker planner can reproduce the markers when needed by various methods.

1. Carbon duplicating method:

In this method 6 - 8 marker can be duplicated at a time. 3 – 4 carbon papers are needed for it. Double sided carbon papers are placed between two markers. When marking is done on the upper page by pen or pencil, duplicate pattern are made on under pages.

2. Spirit duplicating method:

In spirit duplicating method, the master marker is drawn on paper with a layer special hectograph paper underneath it. This paper transfer a blue line on to the back of the master as it is drawn. The master is then used to make one copy at a time by spirit duplicating machine. It is messy process but many accurate copies can be done easily.

3. Photograph or light sensitive paper method:

A specially made light sensitive paper is used for this technique. When patterns are drawn on it and exposed to light to different shade, marker is made.

4. Computerized marker:

When marker planning is finished, it is stored in the memory of computer and at any time computer can display the marker. The printed version can be achieved by plotter machine attached to the computer.

5. Photographic method:

In this process photograph is taken to copy the market. Thus any time reproduction of marker is possible by following the position of the patterns form the snap.

Marker Duplicating Machine

Marker Efficiency:

It is a very important step of Apparel Manufacturing Process. The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker plan. The following formula is used to measure the efficiency:

Area of the pattern in the marker plan

Marker Efficiency= %Total area of the marker plan

Marker Efficiency Fabric Wastage Profit.

Factors related to marker efficiency:

1. Marker planner:

Marker efficiency depends on experience, honesty, sincerity, trial and technological knowledge. The more, the number of markers, the more is the possibility to get higher efficiency.

2. Size of garments:

The more the number of the pattern sizes are included, the more possibility to get more efficiency.

3. Marker Length:

Higher the marker length, higher the efficiency. It can also help to increase the production of cutting room.

4. Pattern Engineering:

Marker efficiency can be increased by changing the pattern according to the rule. Such as a big component can be divided into two parts. This will help to save the fabric wastages.

5. Fabric Characteristics:

Symmetrical fabrics are those which are similar to all directions. Marker efficiency is good in those types of fabrics. However, marker efficiency will be less for asymmetrical fabrics.

6. Marker making method:

We can generally markers by two methods. They are manual and computerized. Computerized marker is more efficient when it is done interactively with the planner so marker efficiency varies from method to method. Sometimes a skilled operator can make more efficient marker than computer.

7. Marker Width:

The more the fabric width, this is easier to plan or make marker which will increase the efficiency.

8. Style of garments:

There are some garments which have only large patterns such as overcoat. It there is less number of small components the marker will be less efficient.

In the industry we see they use Gerber Plotter for Marker printing and they use CAD for Marker Making

Fabric Inspection:

The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll. Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials. Normally, we inspect 10% of the rolls we receive and evaluate them based on a four-point system. This way, we can avoid fabric related quality problems before it is put into production

Major Defects:

Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.· Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or shading.

Inspection Procedure:

Determine the amount to inspect 10%). · Select the rolls to inspect. Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.

· Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the right and left side of the strip. Stop the inspection process every 50 yards and use the strip to check for any shading problems. Also make sure to check the end of the role.

· Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects. (The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes you may have to turn the light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment.

Spreading:

Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of specific length. The cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layers. The maximum width of the cutting marker, constrained by the usable width of the fabric. During spreading number of the plies should be not more than three hundreds. The number of lay depends on the thickness of the fabric and the height of the knife.

Types of Spreading:

There are two types of spreading:

1. Flat spreading

2. Stepped spreading

Objects of Spreading:

To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly aligned as to the length and width and without tension.

To cut garment in bulk and saving in fabric the use of multi garments marker plans and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many plies at the same time.

Methods of fabric spreading:

1. Manual method.

2. Mechanical method

a. Semiautomatic

b. Full automatic

1. Manual method

a. By hand

b. By hook

c. Spreading truck with the help of operator.

a. By hand:

Fabric roll is spreaded on the table by two laborers according to the length & width of marker. Sometimes it is done by entering a rod which is made by wood or metal in the centre of paper tube which is present in the centre of the fabric roll.

b. By hook:

Fabric spreading by hand

In this process the top of the table on which the fabric is spreaded is set at 10” angle perpendicularly. The hook which placed on the upper face of the table is 15cm long and the other end of selvedge is draped on its weight. The hooks are placed 20 – 25 cm one after another with the same row. The fabric lay is spreaded by matching the check of fabric which is useful. Due to this method of spreading there is a tension created along with the width of fabric lay. So that it is uniform to spread & the tension along with the length of fabric is depend on the skill of laborers. After completing the spreading of fabric, the top of the table is set again. The hooks are displaced and the marker is spreaded on the fabric lay.

c. Spreading truck with the help of operator:

There is a spreading truck on the one end of the spreading table in which the fabric roll is placed. Then the truck Is operated by hand from one end to the other end of the table & with the same time the fabric is open out from the fabric roll and the fabric is spreaded according to the length & width. Generally, there are two rail lines in two sides of the top of table and the spreading truck is operated easily & uniformly by its wheel. Sometimes spreading truck is kept in one end of the table & fabric is spreaded from one end of the table to the other end by two laborers from two ends of the table.

2.Mechanical method:

a. Semiautomatic:

Spreading machine is run on the rails which are placed at two side of fabric spreading table surface and operated by motor. Fabric roll is set in a predetermined place of the machine. Spreading machine is run from one side to the other side of table by using electrical & mechanical motion and fabric is spreaded to make lay.

Advantages of semiautomatic spreading:

The maximum fabric width which can be handled is normally 2m although extra wide machines are capable of handling up to 3m.

Auto ply cutting device.

Auto plies counting arrangements.

Auto catcher to hold the ends of the ply.

Auto fabric tensioning device.

Auto fabric leveling device.

Photo electric guide for selvedge alignment.

Fabric fault detector.

A platform is provided on which operator stands.

Auto loading, unloading device.

Disadvantages of semi-automatic machine:

More time required.

High labor cost.

It can not be possible to make desired spreading technique by this machine.

There is no sensor in the spreading head.

Any kind of fabric can not be spreaded.

b. Full automatic:

This is the improvement of semiautomatic machine. There are so many advantages of this machine to make fabric lay because this machine is operated by controlling with the help of robot and micro processor.

Advantages of automatic spreading:

Machine can be set before the desired amount of plies spreading. After completing spreading will stop automatically and give a signal

By using robotic system, when spreading of each roll is finished then it will automatically give a signal.

It is automatically spliced and start new fabric spreading where the last fabric roll has finished.

There is a on the spreading head, so that any defect is identified by this sensor and also the spreading head is stopped and the defective fabric is cut by himself.

Any kind of fabric can be spreaded by this machine and any kind of lay can be made.

Less time needed for fabric spreading.

Less labor cost.

Disadvantages of automatic spreading:

Very expensive, so that capital investment is high.

Skilful operator is needed to operate the machine.

Requirements of fabric spreading:

1. Alignment of fabric ply.

2. Correct ply tension

3. Fabric must be flat

4. Elimination of fabric flaws

5. Correct ply direction and lay stability

6. Easy Separation of the cut lay intro bundles.

7. Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting.

8. Matching checks and stripes.

Fabric Cutting:

The definition of cutting is very complex. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting.

Marker outline is used to cut the fabric. Fabric cutting is very important as if something is cut in wrong way, can not be rectified.

Requirements of cutting:

1. Procession of cut.

2. Clean Edge.

3. Infused Edge.

4. Consistency in cutting

5. Support of the lay

Methods of Fabric Cutting:

There are mainly three methods of cutting are as follows:

1. Manual.

a. Hand operated scissor.

2. Manually operated power knife:

a. Straight knife

b. Band knife.

c. Round knife.

d. Die cutting

e. Notcher

f. Drill

3. Computerized:

a. Knife

b. Laser

c. Water knife

d. Plasma torch

1. Features of Hand operated scissor:

a. It is the first and oldest method of fabric cutting.

b. This is used for cutting one or two plies of fabric.

c. It can be cut the fabric accurately proper caring.

d. Separate systems are available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left.

e. Most of the fabrics can be cut by scissor. But it needs more time to cut the fabric and contains high cost.

f. For these reasons there is limited use of hand operated scissor.

2. Features of Straight knife:

a. Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays.

b. Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric.

c. High cutting speed.

d. Sharp and heavy corners can be cut.

e. Blade could be sharpened by attached grinding facilities.

f. Blade height 10 to 33 cm.

g. Blade stroke 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm

h. Special attachment such as sew edge or serrated edge can be provided for heavy fabric such as canvas or denim.

Hand Operated Scissors

Advantages of straight knife:

a. Comparatively cheap and can be transferred easily from one place to another.

b. Higher lay of height can be cut very easily

c. Round corners can be cut more precisely then even round knife.

d. Production speed is very good as up to 10 heights can be cut at a time.

e. Garments components can be directly separated from fabric lays.

f. Fabric can be cut from any angle.

Disadvantages of straight knife:

a. Sometimes deflection may occur due to the weight of the motor.

b. Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high.

c. Sometimes accident may happen.

Features of Notcher Cutting Machine:

a. It is special type of cutting machine and used in special case.

b. There is need to cut notch in the edge of some components. As a result when sewn is done it is easy to join parts by matching according to the place of parts. This notch can be made by straight knife or other cutting knife machine but the consistency of cutting of notch is depending on the skill of operator.

c. The invention of notcher machine was done to make notch and a special guide to make consistency in notching. The notch can be made in U shape or V-shape.

Advantages of notcher cutting machine

a. It is a special type of cutting machine and used in special case.

b. Useful to cut small notch to the fabric.

c. It is most useful to make consistency in notching.

Disadvantage of notcher cutting machine:

a. Only used to make notch to the fabric.

b. Thermoplastic fibre cannot cut by this machine.

c. Time loss.

d. The use of this machine is limited.

Features of drills cutting machine:

a. Sometimes it is needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for setting pocket, dart and so on. For this reason drill machine is used.

b. Also this machine is for marking on the middle of the components of dresses. This machine contains a motor base plate, drill and spirit level.

Notcher Machine

3. Features of computer control knife cutting:

a. This method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speed.

b. Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting.

c. Cutting knife is oval shaped and very hard. Sharpness is also very high and blade is made of stainless steel.

d. Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer memory.

e. This machine is CAM system machine and works through CAD system.

CAM system includes:

a) Auto spreader.

b) Auto cutter.

CAD system includes:

a) Pattern Making

b) Pattern Grading

c) Marker Making

Short details about the machines:

a. Cutting table is perforated.

b. Table is covered with nylon bristles which are flexible enough to permit penetration and movement of knife blade which supported only at top.

c. A sheet of air light polyethylene covers the top of the lay which assists the creation of a vacuum and allows significant compression of the lays.

d. Cutting head is placed in a beam which is set width wise of the table and cutting head moves length wise of the beam according to the direction of computer head.

e. A controlled cabinet houses the computer and the electric components are required to drive the cutter and motor.

Advantages of computer control knife cutting:

a. Very fast cutting operation.

b. Very active cutting by computer controlled system.

c. Suitable for very large scale production

d. Speed of cutting can be controlled.

e. Cutting defects are less than others.

f. Cutting knife can be driven at any direction.

g. Intensity of accident is low.

h. No need of marker.

i. Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than manual method.

j. Less labor cost.

Sorting and bundling of Cutted goods:

It is a very important process to sort out the cutted parts. The sorting and bundling is done by this way.

a. Sorting cutted pieces according to size and for each size individual bundle.

This sorting and bundling is done to avoid size mistake. During Sorting and bundling some information also place on the cutted goods.