matrix doc nift

7/28/2019 Matrix Doc NIFT

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MISSION

Our mission Is to profitably manufacture And Supply clothing of require quality

standards To our customers On time, every time"

COM PANY PROFILE:

MATRIX CLOTHING PVT. LTD.

Year of establishment: June 1980

Address: Matrix clothing Village - mohammadpur. Khandsa road, p.o. -Narsinghpur,

Gurgaon-122001 haryana

Annual turnover: 130 crore Rs.

Ownership: Partnership firmPartners:

Mr. Gautam Nair

Mr. Vikram Nair

Mr. Rajeev Dhawan

Monthly production capacity:

2 lac polos.

3 lacs boxer shorts,

1 lac ladies garments

No. Of employees: 2200

BRIEF PROFILE

PAUSHAK, a partnership firm, was set up in June 1980, to manufacture "paushak" (this

is a Persian word, meaning clothing) for the international market. The original

partnership is still flourishing with each of the three partners having a hand-on

involvement in operations. Paushak and its sister concern, matrix Clothing(P) LTD , are

currently engaged in the manufacture of woven and knitwear ladies/men's apparelessentially for European and North American markets. Other companies in the group

are engaged in the manufacture and export of polyesters zip fasteners. Total group

sales turnover for current year 2005-2006 is INR 130 Crores (equivalent to US$

29million) Of this apparel accounted for INR 90 crores or US$20 million.


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The Top Management

Rajeev Dhawan ,Handles production operations for both the woven and knitwear

divisions.

Gautam Nair, Handles client services and commercial operations.

PRODUCT RANGE

WOVEN

They make various products for men as well as ladies but the area of specialization is in

Men's/Boy's Boxer shorts along with ladies embellishment tops and blouses.

KNITWEAR

Their product range in knitwear comprises of:

men's knitted polos and cont front shirts in a variety of specialized fabrics. They work

with single/double mercerized fabrics, moisture management and performance fabrics

in 100% cotton as well as in blends.

ladies/girls knit tops with embroidery, bleaching and printing embellishments.

CLIENTS

They work with several international brands which are known world over for the quality

of their merchandise. The factory has been evaluated and approved for production by

well known brands as:

1. The gap clothing co. U.S.A.

2. Philip van huesen co. U.S.A.

3. Kohl's

4. Speedo

5. Ashworth

6. J. Crew

7. Reebok

8. Timberland

9. Abercrombie and fitch

10. Hollister


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11 .Next, U.K.

12. The Otto versand combined group, Europe

13. Speedo U.K.

14. Espirit

15. IZOD

16. Benetton group

17 .Armani exchange

18. Nautica

19. Tommy Hilfiger

20. Greg Norman collection

21. Calvin Klein

22. Tehama

23. Mervyns

24. Debenhams

25. Rockport

26. Old navy

27. Jos-a-bank

28. Woolworth

29. Belk

MANUFACTURING FACILITIES

Manufacturing operations for both knits and woven are processed at Gurgaon factory,

about 40kms from Delhi. The Gurgaon unit is a state of the art factory having over

100,000 sq. Ft of covered area. To ensure a hygienic, dust free atmosphere, the entire

unit is air cooled by a forced draft ventilation cooling system. Complete operations from

cutting to dispatch are done in house-over 400 Japanese sewing and special purpose

machines have been installed.

Special machines include 3-thread and 5-thread overlook, feed off the arm, double

needle machines, edge cutting, needle feed machines, bar tacking and band knife

cutters, more man 50% of the machines are, micro processors controlled with,


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automatic tacking and thread trimming functions. A complete washing plant is also

installed in house and is shared with the knitwear division. Companys Monthly capacity

is 300,000 boxer shorts and 60,000 ladies tops.

All manufacturing operations are centralized at Gurgaon. A total of 600 sewing

machines are currently engaged in knitwear production. The monthly capacity is

200,000 polo shirts per month and 100,000 ladies tops per month with production being

done on art assembly line system to enable quick turnarounds in sampling and

production, we have 7 circular knitting machines and 12 flat knit collar machines

installed in house. We also have three computerized embroidery machines with a total

of 46 embroidery stations. This enables the bulk of fabric/collar knitting/development

and all of our embroideries to be done in house.

THE ENVIRONMENT

INTERNAL ENVIRONMENT : Matrix Clothing

Compliance with human right standards is a key issue for today's apparel maker.

the company is an equal opportunity employer and does not discriminate in hiring

people on the basis of sex, religion, caste or creed. We meet and exceed statutory

requirements on work place hygiene, fire/safety regulations and minimum wages/

perquisites to employees. They have a unique employee welfare scheme where up to

two children of every employee whohas been in service for over seven years are

provided free education up to high school. They have an HR department for

development of human resources which focuses on their training, development, and

motivation and general welfare.

EXTERNAL ENVIRONMENT : Matrix Clothing

Concern for the environment is a cornerstone of our individual and business philosophy.

Although hardly any effluent is generated during the production process, waste water

from our washing department and toilets is treated in our own effluent treatment plant

jointly owned with an associate company before being recycled for use for horticulture

purposes. They believe that every business has a social responsibility towards the

society from where it draws its resources. Towards this end, we regularly participate in

several social and community development projects. In the past we have donated


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computers to a nearby village school for free computer education for under privileged

students, organizing relief material for cyclone ravaged area of Orissa in eastern India,

mobilizing funds for the Kargil relief fund for The Indian army and organizing a fund

collection effort from within the company towards Helping the earthquake ravaged state

of Gujarat where thousands of innocents lost their lives.

They also work actively with an NGO called the Salaam Baalak trust, which works

towards the rehabilitation of street children in Delhi.

VARIOUS UNITS OF MATRIX CLOTHING

1. Unit 1 (Knitted also known as Timberland Floor)

Machine Details :

S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity

1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Juki 14

2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 151

3 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki, Brother 12

4 4 T O/L Pegasus, Yamato 21

5 5 T O/L Juki, Pegasus 17

6 6 T O/L Pegasus 1

7 Button Hole Brother 3

8 Button Stitch Brother, Juki 3

9 Bartack Juki 21

10 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus, Yamato 12

11 DNLS Brother, Juki 3

12 Straight Knife Cutting M/c Eastman 5

13 Fusing M/c Aura , Duke 3

14 Band Knife Duke 1

15 Needle Detection M/c 1

270

2. Unit I (Sampling)

Machine Details :


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4 6 T O/L Pegasus 1



7 Bartack Juki 1

10 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 3

11 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus 1

12 DNCS Higlade 1


35

3. Knits 1st Floor

Machine Details :


1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) - 0





6 6 T O/L - 0

7 Button Hole Brother,Juki 3


9 Bartack Juki, Brother 210 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 16



13 SNCS - 1


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15 Fusing M/c Kumsum 2


17 Drill Maker Kingsew 1

18 Spotting M/c Travel 2

19 Pressing Table Excel 24

217

4. Knits 2nd Floor :

Machine Details :







6 6 T O/L - 0

7 Button Hole Brother,Juki 3


9 Bartack Juki, Brother 3



12 DNLS Brother 1

13 SNCS - 0


15 Fusing M/c Kumsum 216 Band Knife Duke 1

17 Transfer Fusing Ramsons 1




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187

5. Unit II (Sampling- Mens)

Machine Details :






6 Button Stitch Brother 1

7 Feed of the Arm Juki 1


11 Kansai Special Fx 4404 1

27

6. Unit II (3rd Floor)

Machine Details :







6 6 T O/L - 0


8 Button Stitch Brother 29 Bartack Juki 7





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13 DNCS Juki, Typical 6


15 Fusing M/c Fablion 450 1

16 Kansai Special Fx Series 15

17 Feed of the Arm Juki,Brother 20



20 Cone Binder Hasima 1

21 End Cutter Eastman 1

251

7. L.S.T. Ground Floor

Machine Details :





4 4 T O/L Pegasus 27


6 6 T O/L Pegasus 1



9 Bartack Juki 1



12 DNLS Brother, Juki 313 Snap Button M/c Tacking 1

14 Needle Detection M/c Eastman 1

207


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8. L.S.T. 1st Floor

Machine Details :






5 5 T O/L Pegasus 1

6 6 T O/L Pegasus 1


8 Button Stitch Brother 1

9 Bartack Juki 1




13 SNCS Juki, Higlade 3

14 Straight Knife Cutter Eastman 5

15 Rib Cutter Juki 1


17 Transfer Fusing Ramsons 3

18 Fusing M/c Hasima 2

206

9. L.S.T. 2nd Floor

Machine Details :

S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Juki 11


3 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki 1

4 4 T O/L Pegasus 3


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5 Multi Needle Chain Stitch Kansai, Fuken 2

6 Feed of the Arm Juki 3




37

10. Plot No. 33

Machine Details :


1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Brother 115

2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Brother 75

3 Single Needle Lockstitch Juki 15

4 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki 10

5 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Brother 9

6 4 T O/L Pegasus 4

7 5 T O/L Pegasus 0

8 F/L Trimmer Pegasus 2

9 DNLS Brother 3

10 DNLS Juki 5

11 Flat Lock Pegasus 19

12 Button Stitch UBT Juki 3

13 Bartack Brother 314 Buttonhole Juki, Brother 3

15 Band Knife Cutting M/c Eastman 1

16 Fusing M/c Aura 2

17 DNCS Juki 1


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18 Straight Knife M/c Eastman, KM Mark 5

318

11. Plot No. 412

Machine Details:


1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Brother, Juki, Maqi 228

5 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Brother 10


7 5 T O/L Pegasus, Hangan, Brother 37

8 F/L Trimmer Pegasus 4

9 DNLS Brother 12

10 Flat Lock Pegasus 10

11 Button Stitch UBT Brother 2

12 Bartack Brother 3

13 Buttonhole Juki, Brother 2


17 Fusing M/c Hashima 1

18 Snap Button M/c Tony 1

337


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Merchandising

Merchandising is the central part of garment manufacturing company. Merchandising is

vital from the buyer sourcing to the delivery of the products. The main role of

merchandiser in a production unit is to fulfil the needs of buyers by coordinating with themanufacturing departments. His work is to balance the quality price and delivery

simultaneously with proper co-ordination, supervision and control. Thus a merchandiser

is a fulcrum of the organization that involves coordinating and follow-up against tight

schedules merchandising department is involved throughout the process at each

and every step from getting the order, to the shipment of the order. Merchandising is the

focal point of activity in this company. It is the responsibility of a merchandiser to for all

the milestone activities with regard to processing of an order viz. Sampling, bulk

approvals, ordering fabrics, ordering trims and accessories, getting sample approvals,

fabric and garment testing, shipment sample submissions, production, inspection,

packaging and dispatch. When an order is received the first and main step is the

calculation of the cost of the garment. The merchandiser prepares invoice. An invoice is

a tender which is sent to the buyer which contains the details about the buyers name,

address, price quotation, terms of payment, credit or open account etc. At matrix as

such no invoice is prepared as the buyers are fixed but for new buyers this is done. In

case of old buyers, the buyers send the tech pack and then the merchandiser sends the

pricing. Negotiations then take place between the two and they decide upon a common

point of agreement. The costing is done in regards to CMTP i.e. Cut, make, trims and

packaging. It also includes the fabric and embellishments cost. A cost sheet is used for

this purpose.

Costing depends on the following factors :

Fabric cost

Fabric Type

Yarn

Count

GSM

Tube size open

Tube size closed


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Fabric cost per kg: yarn cost + knitting cost + knitting wastage + wet processing charge

+ processing loss + tube size open or closed

Collar

Cutting cost

Cutting charge

Production cost

Lockstitch

Overlock

Flatlock

Folding/binding

Shell stitch

Thread

Thread cutting

Trims cost

Main label

Twill tape

Care label

Tag

AP Ticket (or any other Tickets)

Tape

Side label

Finishing/packaging cost

Washing

Pressing

Price tag

Packing material

Carton

Truck to Chennai


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Embellishments cost

Woven patch

Printing

Sequins

Embroidery

OVERHEADS

All indirect costs

Contribution

It is the profit margin for the company.

Drawback

The percentage which is given by the government because the company is exporting

and getting foreign currency in India, It is usually 6-7%. This amount is usually deducted

from the contribution value.

Handling/settlement value

It is the amount that is given to the buyer. It is usually 6-7%.

Once the cost is determined, the merchandiser quotes this cost to the buyer.

Negotiations take place between the two and accordingly a settlement is reached. The

buyer then sends a specification sheet to the merchandiser, which contains all required

details about the order. Based on this spec sheet the proto sample is made. The

number of proto samples to be made is determined by the buyer. Usually 3 proto

samples are made. One is sent to the buyer, one to the buying house and the third one

is kept by the merchandiser as a counter sample. If the proto samples are rejected, they

are to be made again. If the samples are approved then the next step is the construction

of the size samples. Size Set samples are made in all sizes with the required fabric in

the original colour. If these size set samples are approved then the in house production

order is received and accordingly everything is ordered for. The merchandiser makes

cad request form by this purchase order form, which is in turn made by the marker

efficiency form. Two copies are made, one of them is sent to the sourcing department

so that the required amount of fabric is procured for production and the other copy is

sent to the CAD department to get the average. This average helps in knowing how


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much fabric would be required for the particular number of pieces. Once an order is

given it is punched into the ERP software. The software that is used by the

merchandisers is called the World Fashion Exchange. The order is punched with the

order confirmation number along with the details of the buyer, quantity, style etc.

The order confirmation number has the following parts:

11. K.TMB.033.0173

11 stand for the year

K stands for knits

TMB stands for the buyer name

033 the order number of the year for the particular buyer

0173 the order number of the year for the whole company

When the order is punched the cad requisition form is made. Side by side the sampling

has started and the samples are to be approved. Through the cad request form MRL is

generated. MRL is material requirement list. MRL lets one know the amount of total

fabric that is required as well as the trims. The approved fabric and the trims swatch are

received. An indent is formed for the fabric as well as the trims. This indent is the

permission by the merchandiser to buy the trims as well as the fabric. The head of the

merchandising department signs it. Alongside MRL, BOM is made. BOM is the bill of

material for fabric, trims as well as for the packaging material. The order confirmation

tells about the price where as BOM tells about the required quantity.

MRL=BOM x OC

The merchandiser then prepares a summary sheet. This summary sheet consists of a

one-page summary of the details of the order. It lists the color wise and size wise

breakdown of particular style, the consumption, the amount of fabric required, delivery

date and price. The copy of this summary sheet is circulated to all department heads

that are associated with the processing of the order namely fabric department, stores,

production, and finishing, accounts, shipping and documentation department.

The main documents that are used by the merchandising departments are:

1. Tech pack-it contains all the technical details about the garment to be manufactured.

It contains the construction details, the type of fabric to be used, the trims and

accessories that are required etc.


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2. Time and action plan- as the name suggests it contains the time period to be

allotted for a particular action. By action it means the time the samples need to be

made, sent and approved, the time it takes to get the purchase order, the time taken for

getting the bulk fabric, accessories and trims, the total time required in the production

department i.e. from cutting to packaging and also the time for shipping and

documentation. The difference between the planned and actual dates should be less

and it is usually made

for a total of 90 days from the order receive date till the shipment date.

3. BOM-it is the bill of material. It is made for fabric, sewing trims and packing trims. The

fabric contains cuffs, collars, and the different types of fabric that are used in the

garment. It contains the type of fabric, color, size (in case of collars and cuffs), rate,

quantity, supplier, purchase officer etc. The sewing trims consist of main labels, wash

care labels, size labels and buttons etc. The packing trims consist of poly bag, tissue

paper, sticker, hang tag and price ticket etc.

4. MRL- it is the material requirement list. MRL lets one know the amount of total fabric

that is required as well as the trims. It is again made for fabric, sewing and packing

trims.

PURCHASING TERMS

FOB-free on board- it is the simplest costing procedure. In this the costing is done till

the delivery till the port of ones own country.

C&F-cost and freight

C&I-cost and insurance

LDP-land duty port - in this case the delivery is to be made till the buyers port

DDU-delivery duty and paid - in this case the delivery is to be made till the buyers

warehouse or the buyers destination.

Payment terms

Payment in advance-the payment for the delivery is done in the advance

Open account- as the buyers and the company have been working for a long time now,

they have an open account. This open account enables the company to take out capital

from the account, which is in turn filled up by the buyer. This is usually done with orders

that are running all around the year.


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Letter of credit (loc)-letter of credit is the proof by the buyer that the payment will be

made to the company on the shipment. It is usually given after 30 days of shipment.

As the buyer sends the purchase order (PO) to the company, he sends the loc to his

bank. The company receives the p0 and issues a copy of it to his bank. The bank then

forwards the PO to the buyers bank and the dealings are made accordingly. The

company can now take up to 80-90% of the capital by their bank.

Documents on payment (DOP) and documents on acceptance (DOA)-

DOA-the company sends the documents to its bank. This bank then sends the

documents to the buyers bank. This bank then prepares an agreement on the basis of

some clauses such as the time for payment etc. And when the buyer signs these

agreements then only will he get those documents.

DOP-the documents are sent to the companys bank, which sends it to the buyers

bank. The buyers bank gives these documents to the buyer only if the bank receives

the payment. The buyer can get the shipment only on the basis of these documents.

The exporter sends the shipment to the buying house, this buying house then sends the

goods to the foreign buyer. The entitlement of the goods will not be transferred to the

foreign buyer. It will get the entitlement only if it sells. If the goods are not sold then they

can be returned to the buying house.

Order stage

The merchandiser gets detailed information from buyer about a product like:

Style Details:

Tech pack

Fabric type

Quality and fiber content

Trim requirements and quality of trims used

color details

Additional processing required like washing, printing, embroidery.

Sometimes they provide a style sample also

Sampling Stage :

Make the prototype sample

Coordinate with research and development for product study


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Find the fabric consumptions and initial costing

Send the sample with price quotations

Confirmation Stage:

receive the purchase order

receive the amendments in the style

confirm the price

confirm the delivery schedule and get the required lead time.

Processing stage

Receive the commands for the end sample and get it corrected

Get the approval for the samples and trims

Prepare the time action calendar

Prepare the fabric and trim indents

Get the list of tests required

Coordination with the logistics, r&d and I.E. For detailed reports

Coordinate with PPC for production planning

Send the order status to the buying office at every stage

Receive the ordered fabric and trims.

Conduct the tests in buyers authorized laboratory and get it approved.

Production stage:

call for the production meeting every Saturday

prepare the production file and forward the same to the unit

look upon the finance in each department

Shipment stage:

Coordinate with logistics department and buyer for shipping documents

coordinate with bank for receiving the money

The major focus of the merchandiser is on his communication skills, he acts as the

mediator between the buyer and the company. While taking up the order it is his job to

ensure that no mistakes take place and there should be no misunderstanding between

him and the buyer. The mode of communication practiced in matrix is via emails and

faxes. Correspondence files are maintained for each buyer in which the details of all the


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incoming and outgoing correspondences are kept. It is the responsibility of the

merchandiser to ensure that the data which is supplied to the various departments of

the company is free from any errors. If any mistake is done in this aspect it may lead to

held up of production and ultimately the delay or in worse cases the cancellation of

shipments.

Example of a 90 day Template of T&A Calendar

Track Target Date : 08 July 2011-07-02

Task Duration

(in

Days)

After Task Target Date

OC PUNCHING 1 10 APR 2011

LAB DIP APPROVAL 7 16 APR 2011

FINAL MRL PROCESSING 8 OC PUNCHING 18 APR 2011

TRIMS INHOUSE DEADLINE 35 FINAL MRL

PROCESSING

23 MAY 2011

FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL 17 26 APRIL 2011

FABRIC FIRST LOT

APPROVAL

21 LAB DIP APPROVAL 7 MAY 2011

PP/ SEALER APPROVAL 15 FABRIC FIRST LOT

APPROVAL, FIT

SAMPLE APPROVAL

22 MAY 2011

FABRIC TEST RESULTS 1 FABRIC FIRST LOT

APPROVAL

8 MAY 2011

FABRIC INHOUSE 21 FABRIC FIRST LOT

APPROVAL

28 MAY 2011

FILE HANDOVER DATE 55 3 JUNE 2011

PCD 62 10 JUNE 2011

FINAL INSPECTION 28 PCD 8 JULY 2011


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Jist of Merchandising Activity:

Receive the Tech Pack from the

Prepare the Proto Sample

Get the Approval of the Proto

Prepare the Fit Samples/Get them

Send the Sales Man Sample to the

Prepare the Pre Production

Prepare the Pre Production

Get the Pre Production Sample

Send the Fabric Sample (Beginning, Middle, End) to

Send the Top of Production Sample to

Accumulate the Pack Pull Samples

Co-ordinate with the Production Department and send the


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Sample Cost Sheet : Knits/Timberland

Buyer /

Label

Date

:

Season

Style #

Style

Description

Yarn Count /

Type

Yarn

Conten

t

Fabric Type

/ Finish

FABRIC PRICE

ITEM

YA

RN

KNIT

TING

LOS

S %

PRC.

COST

LOS

S %

C

T

G

TO

TAL

PANEL

LENGTH

PANEL

WIDTH GSM

CON

S.

PRICE

(INR)

TOTAL

FABRIC

PRICE

STITCHING / PACKING TRIM PRICE

ITEM ITEM DESCRIPTION FOB

FRT + HANDLING

% LDP

CON

S.

PRICE

(INR)


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TOTAL TRIM

PRICE

VALUE ADDITION COST (EMBROIDERY/PRINTING/OVERDYING)

OPERATION

COST

/KG

CO

NS. EFF%

COST/P

c.

REJECTION

%

PRICE

(INR)

TOTAL EMBELLISHMENT COST

COSTING SUMMARY

MISC. CHARGES GARMENT SAM SAM COST

PRICE

(INR)

TOTAL INPUT COST

TOTAL COST PRICE

CONTRIBUTION

DRAWBACKSELLING PRICE

NET CONTIBUTION

SPECIAL EXCHANGE RATE

REMARKS

APPROVED AS ON : AUTHORIZED BY :


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Store

There are 2 stores at Matrix Clothing. One store is specifically dedicated for storing the

knitted fabrics, while the other store holds the woven fabric, knitted fabric and the Trims

as well.

Activities in the Store:

1. Receive the fabric

2. Tally the fabric against the ordered and mentioned quantity

3. Open the bale and tally the packing list (if woven fabric)

4. Then the quality check is done as per the 4 point system i.e. a maximum of 40

defects per 100 sq yd

5. The woven fabric is checked entirely while the knit fabric is checked only 20%.

6. The widths of the fabric at beginning, middle and end are checked and recorded.

7. The record of defects in the fabric is also kept. This helps in communicating tothe floor and warning them about the defects so that counter measures can be

taken.

The Store is responsible for adequately holding the material and issuing the materials in

the right quantity, to the right department/floor, in the right time.

When the store receives the order from any department the store checks the P.O. and

the amount to be issued. Once the quantity is issued a challan is issued to keep a

record of the fabric issued.

There are 2 fabric stores, the capacity of which are :

Store 1 50 Tons knits + 2 Lakh mt. Woven Fabric

Store 2 200 Tons knits + 10000 mt. Woven Fabric

4 point system for fabric checking:

Up to 3 inches 1 point

3-6 inches 2 points

6-9 inches 3 points

Over 9 inches 4 points

Holes and openings 0-1 inches 2 points

Over 1 inches 4 points

Total defects points per 100 sq. Yard are calculated, and normally those fabric rolls


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containing more than 40 points per 100 sq. Yard are considered "seconds". However

different buyers have their different acceptance criteria. Most prominent fabric faults to

be looked upon are:

Mending hole

Hole

Knitting fault

Barre

Color tinting

Stain

Kitty

Crease

As the rolls are being inspected, the inspector has to fill in a form for his reference as

well. This form is called the matrix fabric inspection report. It contains the following

details:

Fabric: the type of fabric which is being inspected

Supplier: the supplier of the fabric

Color: the color of the fabric

Width required

Lot no

Style no

Buyer; the buyer's name

Width received

GSM required

GSM received

No. Of rolls

As the rolls are being inspected, the roll no is noted down. For every roll no the following

Details have to be determined as well as calculated:

1. No. Of pieces: these are the number of fabric pieces in the whole roll. If the fabric has

a defect which is stretched over a particular length and width, then the fabric is cut from

that portion, hence two pieces are obtained within the same roll.

2. Weight of the fabric roll


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3. GSM calculated

4. Width: the width is found out in the starting, middle and at the end. This is to see if

there is any width variation within the roll as it would give problems in cutting then.

5. Points calculation: this is to see how many defects lie under the category of 1 point, 2

point, 3 point or 4 point and there respective total.

6. Total points

7. This tells weather to grade the fabric as A, B,C or D grade.

0-25% A grade-accepted

25-50% B grade - under decision

50-75% C grade- under decision

75% and above D grade- rejected

Comments: the comments are made regarding the defects. It is to classify the defects

on the basis of yarn defects, knitting defects or processing defects.

After the roll is inspected, it is packed again in plastic sheets and two types of stickers

are put on them. One of the stickers has the following details.

1. Style no

2. Buyer

3. Combo

4. Purchase order no.

5. Party

6. Date

7. Roll no.

8. Lot no.

9. Required size

10. Actual size act

11.GSM

12. Quantity

13. Yarn lot: contains the no. Of defects

This sticker is put on the fabric roll that is packed. The other sticker that is put on the roll

is the colored sticker that tells about the grade of the fabric.


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The color code is:

1. Light green-passed from inspection-A grade

2. Yellow- non conforming or under decision-B & C grade

3. Red - rejected from inspection - D grade

Trims Store :

The Trims Store holds the following :

Twill Tape

Main Label

Size Label

Sewing Thread

Embroidery Thread

Wash care Label

Asia Pacific Sticker

Price Ticket

Poly bag Sticker

Poly bag

Hang Tag

Carton

When the Trims are received by the Store firstly the quantities are checked. The bill

against the P.O. contains the quantity. For checking the quality of the Trims received

random boxes are opened and checked.

Knitting Section

Matrix Clothing (P) Ltd. Has its own knitting section which provides 100% Rib and

satisfies 10-15% requirement of fabric.

Chiefly Fabric for Sampling is produced in the knitting section, but they alsoproduce fabric for shortages and urgent fabric requirements.

There are 8 circular knitting machines.

1. 2 Electronic Jacquard machines (Diameter-31, Gauge-24).

2. 1 Rib Maker machine (Diameter-30, Gauge-18).

3. Mini Jacquard machine (Diameter-30, Gauge-28).

4. 2 Single Jersey (4 Track) machines (Diameter-30, Gauge-28).


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The section also has 12 flat bed knitting machines (Bed-80, Gauge-14).

There are 3 fabric Inspection machines.

One coning machine.

The knitting unit does not have a fabric finishing facility. This is the reason why

the knitted fabric has to be sent outside for finishing. The management is

planning to have an in-house finishing facility very soon. The knitting unit can

then supply the fabric to the sewing floors in a very short lead time.

Per day capacity of this unit is 1 Ton (produced in 24 hours).

On an average the kitting unit provides 20-22 Tons fabric to the sewing floors.

PRODUCTION PLANNING

A line plan is made by the planning department. The capacity for each line is

determined according to the SAM. This helps in putting the target for the particular line

so as to meet the shipment date. While setting the line plan the efficiency of each line is

taken around 50-55%. This is because of normal and abnormal absenteeism as well as

the current efficiency of normal working of the operators. This line plan is made for each

floor separately as well as for each line. It consists of the line number, date, the target to

be set, the style number, the output to be delivered as well as the target output of the

whole day for the entire floor. Moreover, the planning can also be made on historical

data as in certain lines would be good at handling specific styles hence when the same

style returns it can allotted to the same line.The line to be selected for the particular style is decided on various issues. These are:

1. If it is repeat order for the line

2. Particular buying house wants that particular line to make their product.

3. Particular buying house wants that particular floor to make their product.

This line plan is reviewed every day and the changes are incorporated every week.

These changes may be made because of inefficiency of the line, style gets delayed due

to various reasons such as the fabrics and trims were not available on time etc.

The planning department also makes Daily Production Reports and Line Wise Reports

which help them to keep a track of the production and make planning if anything goes

wrong. Full cooperation with the merchandising department is necessary


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CAD Section

The Process of CAD department :

The CAD department has the responsibility to provide the Sampling department and the

Sewing floors with the correctly developed patterns. The CAD dept. must take special

care of marker efficiency in order to utilise the fabric in the best possible way.

Development of pattern as per

Style/Order

Fit/P.P. Approval

CAD Average

Fabric Ordered Accordingly

Shrinkage test

Development of pattern as per Allowance

Final Marker/Patter Ready

Pattern Send to Production Floor


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Spreading and Cutting

At Unit I :

No. Of Tables - 4

No. Of Straight Knife Cutting Machines 5

No. Of Operators 26

Types of fabrics handled fleece, RFD, Auto Striped, Engineered Striped, solid pique.

(only knits)

Per Day Cutting Capacity:

Solid Pieces : 5000-6000

Striped Pieces : 2000-2500Per Day Fabric Consumption :

Solid : 1800-2000 Kg.

Striped : 500 Kg.

Get the Order Quantity from the P.O.

Order the required fabric from the store

Check the CAD average of the P.O.

Receive the Fabric

Cut the front and back mock for shrinkage test

Give the shrinkage percentage along the CAD Requisition

Allot the fabric to the cutting tables

The Fabric is spread and cut


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Standard Operating Procedure Before Cutting Fabric :

1. Measure the widths of three different fabric lots.

2. Generally Cut able Width = Actual Width2 or 3.

3. Segregate the fabric lots according to the width.

4. Cut the mocks from these lots and send them for washing.

5. Get the width wise and length wise shrinkage of the fabric.

6. Finally the width of the fabric will be received and confirmed.

7. Hence according to the garment ratio and lay lot planning the CAD department

gives the final length of the layers.

Spreading and Cutting Activity :

Fabric # 1

Style No. - 94468

Colour - Rust

Fabric - Fleece

Garment Timberland Sweatshirt

Total Fabric Quantity = 478 Kg.

Ticketing and numbering on cut parts

Generate the Internal Issue Slip

Bundling of Garment parts

Feed the bundles to the lines


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Size Ratio

S : M : L : XL : XXL

48 : 150 : 197 : 177 : 109

No. Of Plies Spread = 45

Time Taken in Spreading (45 plies) = 51 minutes

Time Taken in Cutting (45 plies) = 45 minutes

No. Of Operators Involved = 2

Length of Lay = 146.5 inch

Width of Lay = 70 inch

Lay Height = 4 inch

Total P.O. of 478 Kg. is cut in 2 days.

25th May 93 kg. / 243 pieces

27th May 385 kg. / 438 pieces

Table utilized for this P.O. = 1

Operators = 5

Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2

Type of Fabric Readings (in seconds)

Fleece 35

37

36

38

35

33

36

35

51

38

Average Time 37.4


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Allowance 15%

Spreading SAM/ply 0.73

Observations :

1. Total No. Of plies were 45.

2. The spreading time was 51 minutes.

3. The entire layer was cut in 45 minutes.

4. The operators Santosh and RajKumar were quick in handling the fabric defects.

Suggestions :

1. The layer height went 1 above the mandatory lay height i.e. 3. This can restrict

the proper movement of the knife hence the number of plies for fleece should be

max. 35.

2. The scissors must be sharpened so that the spreading time can be reduced.

3. A lot of time is wasted on fetching things like scissors, tape, paper. These things

must be sorted and put at specific places.

4. After the layer is set there was no marker, the marker must be brought in as the

spreading starts.

Fabric # 2

Style No. - 67499

Colour - White

Fabric - Pique

Garment - T-shirt


Size Ratio

S : M : L : XL : XXL

43 : 86 : 64 : 32 : 109



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Length of Lay = 236 cm

Width of Lay =208 cm

Lay Height = 2.5 inch

Total P.O. of 91 Kg. is cut in 1 day.

1 June 93 kg. / 268 pieces


Operators = 5



RFD Pique 63

66

58

68

6675

60

55

53

57

Average Time 62.1

Allowance 15%


Observations :

1. The operators were a bit slow in spreading and required the help in placing the

marker properly.


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Suggestions :

1. The operators must be educated about dropping the waste bits in the dust bins

and keeping the walking area clean.

Fabric # 3

Style No. - 91443

Colour - Dark Navy

Garment Rugby T-shirt






Length of Lay = 34 inch

Width of Lay =14 inch

Lay Height = 2.5 inch

Total P.O. of 466 Kg. is cut in 1 day.

2nd June 466 kg. / 613 pieces


Operators = 8


Type of Fabric Activity Readings (in seconds)

Autostriper Jersey Block Cutting 38

37

36


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47

26

28

34

34

34

24

Average Time 33.8

Allowance 15%

SAM (Block Cutting) 0.65


Autostriper Jersey Bundling 58

57

40

32

32

37

45

29

37

33

Average Time 40

Allowance 15%

SAM (Bundling) 0.77


Autostriper Jersey Layering 26

20

22

13

15

18


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31

20

19

15

Average Time 19.9

Allowance 15%

SAM (Layering) 0.38


Autostriper Jersey Sleeve Spreading 40

35

34

50

45

50

55

30

25

27

Average Time 39.1

Allowance 15%

SAM (Sleeve Spreading) 0.75

Spreading and Cutting

At Unit II (3rd Floor) :

No. Of Tables - 4

No. Of Straight Knife Cutting Machines 3

No. Of Operators 10


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Types of fabrics handled Woven (printed and checked)

Per Day Cutting Capacity: 7000 pieces approx.

Per Day Fabric Consumption : 4300-4500 mts.

# Fabric : 1

Garment: Boxer Mens

Buyer : Abercrombie & Fitch

Style : IL6184 (Checked)

Width : 58

Layer Length : 5 yards

No. Of Plies : 245

No. Of Operators : 3

No. Of cutting m/c : 2

Spreading Time : 2 hours 53 minutes

Cutting Time : 1 hour 05 minutes


Woven Check 34

37

30

3830

34

31

36

32

40


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Average Time 34.2

Allowance 15%


Observations :

1. The checked fabric layer requires manual flow matching of patters which can

take around 1-1.5 hours.

2. There is only 1 pattern Master available for flow matching.

# Fabric : 2

Garment: Boxer Mens

Buyer : Hollister (A&F)

Style : IL6184 (Printed)

Width : 59.5

Layer Length : 7 yards

No. Of Plies : 30

No. Of Operators : 3

No. Of cutting m/c : 2

Spreading Time : 20 minutes

Cutting Time : 52 minutes


Woven Printed 32

32


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34

32

31

30

32

3434

37

Average Time 32.8

Allowance 15%


Observations:

1. There were 3 operators involved in the spreading of the layer.

2. We had the opportunity of removing one operator and as a result the time taken

to spread 1 ply shot up by 15 seconds.

3. This was because the operators had to travel along the table twice for spreading

the ply and once for setting it.

Stitching

Style - #91443

Auto Striped Rugby T-Shirt.

Timberland.

As the result of Time Study :

S No. Name of the Operation SMV

1 Zig -Zag stitch on Collar 0.76

2 Collar Run stitch 0.81

3 Collar Top Stitch 0.68

4 Collar Band Attach 0.86

5 Deco Stitch on Band 0.83

6 Cuff Join 0.65


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7 Cuff Run stitch 0.78

8 Placket to Placket Attach 0.52

9 Placket Attach to Body 0.85

10 Placket Tape attach to tape 0.61

11 Placket Edge Stitch 0.65

12 Placket Close and Finish 1.213 Placket Box Making 1.12

14 Label Attach to patch 0.55

15 label patch attach to moon 1

16 Moon Attach to Back 0.7

17 Shoulder Attach 0.52

18 Shoulder Turn & Stitch 0.5

19 Sleeve Attach 1.23

20 Armhole Topstitch 0.75

21 Bottom Hem 0.78

22 Stay Stitch to Neck 0.5123 Collar Attach to body 1.09

24 Collar Finish 1.2

25 Side Seam Attach & Placket Serge 1.4

26 Slit Tape Attach 1.05

27 Slit Tape Finish 0.9

28 Cuff Attach 0.85

29 Turn & Stitch on Attached Cuff 0.7

30 Wash Care Label Attach 0.42

31 Final Tack 0.42

* Garment SAM 24.89

Learning :

1. The critical operations in a Rugby T shirt are in the Placket and Collar.

2. A Critical Operation also known as the bottle neck operation is responsible forthe increased throughput time of a piece.

3. To get proper output at end of line these critical operations must be taken care

of.

4. There are 5 operations in a collar this is the reason why collar was being

prepared in a different line.


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5. The other critical operation is the Placket. It also has 5 operations in it.

6. Though the operations in the placket are included in the main line these

operations are done by one highly skilled operator so as to supply proper

feeding.

7. Moreover during the setup time for the style a few operators produce enough

feeding (Front with placket attached & Moon, Label attached to Back).

8. The other assembly operations such as Sleeve Attach, Collar Attach to Body,

Collar Finish, Side Seam attach and Placket Serge are done by skilled operators

who have years of experience in the same operation.

9. The WIP between operations is around 25 pieces.

10. The operators are on a piece rate payment basis.

11. The maximum output of the line is 450 pieces per day.

12. The number of machines in a line is 30.

Style - #1L6184

Menswear Printed Boxer Short.

Hollister.

As the result of Time Study :

S No. Name of the Operation SMV

1 Complete Fly Attach 2.45

2 Join Back Rise 0.5

3 Turn & Stitch Back Rise 0.14

4 Join Inseam 0.34

5 Turn & Stitch Inseam 0.3

6 Side Attach 0.61

7 Side Finish 0.42

8 Bottom Hem 0.65

9 Mark on Waistband & Elastic put in bundle 0.24

10 Waistband Over lock 0.17

11 Tack elastic to waistband 0.61

12 Turn & Stitch on Waistband 0.4

13 Bar tack 0.31

14 Attach Label to Waistband 0.36

15 Unfold & Elastic cutting 0.14


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16 Elastic Ring Making 0.2

17 Elastic Marking 0.15

18 Label To Elastic 0.53

* Garment SAM 8.52

Learning :

1. The critical operation in a Boxer short is the fly operation.

2. The operators on the 3rd floor are on salaried basis, but the fly operation is done

by piece rate operators.

3. This is because the piece rate operators can prepare enough front panels for

feeding in the line quickly.

4. The in line WIP is maintained at 200-250.

5. The WIP between operations is 25 pieces.

6. The hourly target for the line is set, if the target is not achieved the remainingpieces are added up to the target of the next hour.

7. The maximum output of the line is 1500 pieces in 10 hours.

8. The number of machines in a line is 24.

Embroidery

Matrix Clothing has an in house embroidery department.

Punching in the software and ultimately in the machine.

Embroidery work flow

Get the Design (design data)

Ready and check the Embroidery machine, fabric/thread

Original drawing

Scanner

Enlargement of original drawing

Dg/ml floppy disc-

Embroidery

Finishing

Quality check

Setting of fabric


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Putting the foam

Setting of upper and under thread

Embroidery is the decorative stitching on the fabric. It is either in the form of a brand

name or label or it could be some form of motif or design. The buyer to the

merchandiser supplies this design. The merchandiser supplies the design to the

embroidery department.

Machine embroidery over here can be described through two factors. One is by the

sewing machine to manually create a design on a piece of fabric or other similar item.

This is usually done for making new samples for the design department.

The other factor for the embroidery machine is to use specially designed, computerized

embroidery machine to automatically create a design from a pre made pattern that is

input into the machine.

Industrial embroidery machines are with automatic technology that can process and

output complex designs that have been stored in a computer. Computerized embroidery

machines are commonly used in product development operations and mass production

of repeat patterns.

The patterns to be embroidered are scanned on to the computer and using the software

es65 Wilcom are converted into embroidery designs that will be put into the floppy

which would be then eventually put into the machine that will recognize the commandsand do the embroidery.

The embroidery process includes the following steps:

1. Sorting the pieces on the basis of size

2. Scanning the design

3. Punching the design into the software

4. Marking of the pieces

5. Framing of the pieces

6. Loading the pieces (includes the loading of foam)

7. Embroidery

8. Unloading of the pieces (includes the simultaneous removal of frames)

9. Finishing

There are typically 3 types of stitches


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1. Run stitch- This stitch is the initial stitch that outlines the main design to be

embroidered. These are of three types

Simple run stitch- its a single line.

Triple run stitch- this stitch is runs on the same outline three times to make it thick

Motif run stitch- the motif will be run as a stitch. This is done when patches are used.

The Placement of the motif is first made through stitches and then the patch of the motif

is put.

2. Satin stitch- This stitch is long stitch that fills from one end to the other

3. Tatami stitch- This stitch is also known as the fill stitch, it fills up the base. It is of two

types :

Zig- zag stitch- this runs in a zig zag fashion.

E stitch-in this type of the stitch there is space between the stitches.

There are a total of three computerized machines in the embroidery department. They

are:

1. Tajima (Japanese make)

6 colors

20 heads

head to head distance-200mm

flat design, used for production

2. Zsk (German make)

9 colors

20 heads

Head to head distance -- 300 mm embossed design, used for production

3. Zsk (German make)

11 colors

6 Head

Used for samplingFoam or fusing is used while embroidering the pieces. This foam is usually to avoid the

contraction and expansion of garment pieces or panels. The type of foam to be used

depends upon the requirement of the buyer. The various foams used are:


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1. Water soluble fusing. This fusing is used in case of women's garments. It is used

while embroidering and is removed during the wash the cost is relatively high, around

Rs. 24/meter.

2. Random fusing: this is usually used in case where the backing of embroidery has to

be removed. It is used in case of low costing and comes at a range of 20-30 GSM.

3. 90 RDM foam: it is a cut able foam this is usually used in case of embossing effect.

The cost is Rs. 4/meter

4. Tear able both side foam: this type of foam is used in the design which involve some

text form on them. It is not tore off but cut from the design. It comes as 45 gsm and the

cost is around Rs. 5/meter.

5. Tear able one side foam (tpoi): this type of foam is used in pairs. The look of the

design is firm and good and is available in the market at the cost of Rs. 3/meter.

The threads which are used in the embroidery machine are usually cotton blend threads

With polyester, cotton threads or viscose threads. The type of thread and the count to

be used should be appropriate so as to avoid any thread breakages, clogging of stitches

or poor finishing of embroidery.

The various thread companies are:

1. Madeira- Rs.65/1000m

2. Telephone- Rs. 14/800m

3. Oswal-Rs.l6/800m

4. Vardhman- Rs. 10/400m

5. Coats sylko-Rs.52/1000m

The type of needle to be used depends largely on the type of machine and application.

In embroidery the standard needle is db x k5 # 11.

Flow Process

Time Taken

(approx.)


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** On an average 20 head embroidery machine produces 20, 1X1 inch

embroidery designs in 10 minutes.

WASHING

Washing is an important factor in the overall production of the garment. After the

garment has been produced to all the required specifications, it is essential to send it for

washing to remove any unnecessary stains and also to impart certain types of finishes

that are desired by the buyer for his product washing adds to the aesthetic sense of the

garment.

Work force: 15

Type of washes:

1) Enzyme Wash

2) Garment Wash

3) Softener Wash (silicon wash)

0.21 minute

0.23 minute

(1.46+2.31+1.92 )

minute

(1.02+0.25) minute

Ply/Garment Received

Marking on Panel/Garment

Framing

Machine Time (Placing, Uptime, Removal)

Finishing (Thread Cutting, Checking)

Despatch to Location


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4) Machine Wash (normal detergent)

5) Bleach wash

These washes given were depending upon mainly on the buyer's specification. Some

other factors also contribute to their selection, like - Fabric strength, type of effect

needed, color of fabric, total costing of the fabric.

Garments are washed after they have been properly stitched. Not only garments are

washed but also cut fabrics. These fabrics are termed as cut panel laundry. They are

those fabrics which have abrupt shrinkage. The fabrics are cut according to their

desired length of the marker and then sent for the washing. This is done for pre

shrinking. It is required so that the fabrics can shrunk before cutting so that no further

shrinking can take place. Thus the shrinkage is adjusted.

The Process is called CPL : Cut Panel Length

Prerequisites for CPL :

1. Cut the panels based on the layer length and add the shrinkage based on the lab

report for CPL wash.

2. Cut panel has to be dipped in normal water for 3-4 hours under normal room

temperature.

3. After dipping process the panel should be hydrated to extract the water from it.

4. Panels should be properly dried in tumbles at a temperature of 70 C.

5. Once the panels dry then the panels should be taken out from the tumble gently

to avoid the stretch during handling.

Enzyme wash:

The Process flow of this type of wash is as follows:

Desizing

Rinse

Enzyme

Rinse

Finishing agent

For enzyme wash the temp of around 50-60 degree Celsius is maintained. The thinner

the fabric lesser the temperature is.

Garment wash:

In this the garments are washed normally. The spots and stains axe removed by using


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Acetone and Vinyl. The solution of soap, Acetone and Vinyl are prepared and applied

manually by small tooth brushes. Basically water is used for removing sand and soil

stains. Acetone is used for removing ink stains. Vinyl is used for removing hard stains

like oil spots etc.

Softener wash:

This is done to give finishing to the garments and fabric. The garments are treated with

some finishing agents like silicone etc to give a soft and smooth feel to the garments.

5 to 10 pieces are first tested. If the fabric is soft in feel then it requires less softener and

for fabrics with harsh feel the application of softener is comparatively much more.

If the fabrics turn out to be less soft than they treat it again with softener.

Different type of softeners are:

Anionic softener

Cationic softener

Silicone softener

In silicone washing a pool of water is made in which silicone is added, the fabrics are

dipped into the pool for 45 min. The water is generally luke warm water. There is no

temperature control for silicone wash.

There are two types of chemical used for silicone wash. They are 196 Ultra Resin and

180 Wakar.196 ultra resin is thinner and is used for light fabrics. It is comparatively

cheaper than number 180 which is thick as well as used for darker fabrics.10 litre water

along with 1.5 kg silicone is used for 300 polo t-shirts.

Machine wash:

The garments are washed with detergents in washing machines. The detergents used

are generally specified by the buyer, generally Ariel, Surf excel and Tide are used as

detergents. The detergent must be of a non ionic base. A 50 Kg. can is issued to the

washing unit each day. 400g. detergent is used up in washing 100 garments.

The time taken for washing :

White Fabric : 10 minutes

Printed / Coloured Fabric : 5 minutes

Enzyme Wash : 20 minutes


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Bleach wash:

For white garments bleach is used to remove various types of stains. The bleaching

amount also depends upon the type of fabric used. If the fabric is light lesser quantity of

bleach is used or vice-versa.

The machines that are used are:

1. Stefab machine-25 kg capacity

2. 2 Fabcare machines-100 kg. Capacity

4 cemented baths are also used for carrying out washing operations (CPL).

After the washes the fabrics or garments are put in the hydro for about 10 minutes. This

is done to remove the soap from the garment pieces by the rapid action of water. There

are 3 hydro extractor machines (50 kg,50 kg,25 kg capacity each).

As the counting of total no. of pieces can be tiresome job for the washing operators.

Thus a single garment piece is weighed and accordingly the no of pieces are put in to

hydro machine.

The 3 hydro machines are:

2 Stefab machines - 50 kg capacity.

1 Stefab machine - 25 kg capacity

Tumble machine is also used in washing process. This machine is used to dry the

fabrics that come out from the hydro. This removes water from the fabric. The various

tumble machines are

1 Fabcare machine-100 kg capacity

2 Stefab machine -25 kg capacity

1 Stefab machine-50 kg capacity

1 Stefab machine - 120 kg.

The Time Taken for Tumble Drying :

Woven : 25 minutes

Knits : 1-1.5 hours.

Temperature :


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Woven : 35-40 degree C

Knits : 70-85 degree C

A store wise break up is sent to the washing department which gives the color wise as

well as Size wise breakup so that the washing department knows how many pieces are

sent in the particular color.

It also contains details about the style number, buyer and the shipment date. The

shipment is given so that the department knows how to prioritize what style has to be

washed first.

Thus the washing department is very essential in the overall production process of the

garment no matter how much the garment is up to the desired specification but the most

important factor is the overall look of the garment.


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Finishing

Timberland Rugby :

Washing

Thread Cutting/Ticket

Removal

Dusting

Initial checking

Buttoning

Pressing

Final Checking

Tagging

Measurement

Re-Final Checking

Folding

Poly-bag/ Sealing

Carton


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Time Taken for Finishing 1 Rugby T-Shirt

S. No. Activity Recorded Time

1 Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal 3 minute 30 seconds

2 Dusting 20 seconds

3 Initial checking 19 seconds

4 Buttoning 4 seconds

5 Pressing 1 minute 10 seconds

6 Final Checking 1 minute 45 seconds

7 Tagging 6 seconds

8 Measurement 45 seconds

9 Re-Final Checking 1 minute 10 seconds

10 Folding 12 seconds

11 Poly-bag/ Sealing 16 seconds

* Total Time 9.6 minutes


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Hollister Boxer Short :

Washing

Thread Cutting/Ticket

Removal

Initial Checking

Pressing

Final Checking

Tag Attaching

Folding

Packing

Carton


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Time Take for Finishing 1 Boxer Short

S. No. Activity Recorded Time

1 Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal 1 minute 30 seconds

3 Initial checking 40 seconds

5 Pressing 25 seconds

6 Final Checking 1 minute 15 seconds

7 Tagging 7 seconds

10 Folding 29 seconds

11 Packing 16 seconds

* Total Time 4.7 minutes


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TESTING

Testing is a critical factor in determining if the fabric and the garment will be performing

up to the desired performance in different situations. Testing is a very important aspect

of quality management. It is up to the buyer to give certain specifications for various

properties of the product under consideration and also the fabric performance

specifications for various properties.

Though the agencies where testing has to be carried out is suggested by the buyer

himself but there are certain tests which are in house. These tests are carried out to

determine if the fabric which they have outsourced is of the appropriate quality, thegarments which they have been manufacturing are undergoing certain changes which

are all because of the default in the specifications by the buyers.

the certain tests carried out are:


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1. Dimensional stability - shrinkage tests- garment shrinkage is mainly due to

laundering, dry cleaning, steaming or pressing. It occurs at three levels: fabric, yarn and

fibre. The total observed shrinkage is the resultant shrinkage at these three levels.

2. Crocking- crocking is the test so designed to determine the degree of color that may

transfer from the surface of colored textiles to other surfaces by rubbing. The washing,

dry cleaning, ironing and finishing, may affect the degree of color transfer from a fabric,

the test is usually carried out before or after such a treatment. This test is carried out

both in dry and wet conditions with the help of a crock meter.

Multi fiber is used which has the fallowing composition:

Nylon

Polyester

Acrylic wool

Cotton

This fabric is used alongside the fabric to be tested to see the crocking result on

different fabrics.

3. Ph value- this test is carried out to determine the dye or soap content in a garment

piece.

4. Color fastness to washing- color fastness is the property of a dye or print that enables

it to retain its depth and shade throughout the wear life of a product. The colorfastness

to washing is tested in launder meter under appropriate conditions of temperature,

bleaching and abrasive action.

Different types of reagents are used to carry out this type of tests. Also a color matching

box is present to check its appearance under different kinds of lights. The different lights

are:

daylight

A +

tube light

cool white

horizon

ultraviolet


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It is also tested against the grey scale as well the chromatic transference scale to check

the performance level.

5. Count- this test is carried out to determine the count of the yarn. This is carried out

with the help of Baisley balance.

6. Performance test o/ garments up to the required level desired there are various tests

carried out for rating the performance of the properties which are essentially required in

The garment some of these tests are carried out to see the overall strength of the

Garment.

7. Skewing - is a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are

angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the fabric it is also

known as bias.

8. Testing for trims: trims like zippers, buttons and wash care labels are also tested so

that they perform up to the desired level of performance.

9. Button snap test- this test is carried out to see the strength of the point where the

button is attached.

Some of the Test Standards used World wide :

Fabric and Garment TestsColor Fastness Tests

No. Test Parameters Testing Standards1. Washing ISO 105 C10

BS EN ISO 105-C10IS 687,3361,764, 765IS 3417

2. Laundry ISO 105- C06 /C08BS EN ISO 105-C06 /C08AATCC 61 No. 1A-5AIS 687,3361,764, 765IS 13025

3. Perspiration ISO 105-E04, IS 9714. Dry & Wet Crocking/Rubbing ISO 105-X12,


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AATCC 8 & AATCC 165,IS 766

5. Light a) Xenon Arc (Water Cooled)ISO 105 B 02BE EN ISO 105 B02i) BWS 4 or belowii) BWS 5iii) BWS 6 or above

b) AATCC 16i) 20 Fading Units or

belowii) Each Additional 10

fading Unitsb) MBTL Method

i) Fading up to Grade 4ii) Fading Up to Grade 5

6. water ISO 105-E01BS EN ISO E01AATCC 107IS 767

7. Sea Water ISO 105 E02AATCC 106IS 690

8. Chlorinated Water ISO 105 E03BS EN ISO 105 E03AATCC 162

9. Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01AATCC 132IS 4802

10. Hot pressing ISO 105-X11AATCC 133


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IS 68911. Water Spotting ISO 105 E07

AATCC 104IS 976

12. Acid Spotting ISO 105 E 05AATCC 6IS 968

13. Alkali Spotting ISO 105 E 06AATCC 6IS 977

14. Bleaching a) HypochloriteISO 105 N01BS EN ISO 105 NO1AATCC 188IS 762

b) PeroxideISO 105 N02BS EN 105 N02AATCC 101

c) Oxidative BleachISO 105 C09BS EN ISO 105 C09AATCC 190

15. Non Chlorine Bleach AATCC 172Each Additional Wash

16. Solvent Spotting-Perchloroethylene AATCC 157

17. Scrubbing IS 1190818. Sublimation IS 97519. Mercerization 105-X04

IS 979


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Each Additional Cycle20. perspiration and Light a) ISO 105-B07

i) BW 4ii) BW 5

AATCC 125i) 20 Fading Unites or Belowii ) Each Additional 10Fading Units

21. Color fastness to artificialweathering ISO 105-B04AATCC 111,169

IS 6152