milk based food specialties of kashmir mohammad ashraf paul
DESCRIPTION
The article describes the comprehensive details of some traditional foood products of Kashmir incorporating milk and/or milk products in various forms.TRANSCRIPT
Milk Based Food Specialties of Kashmir
Mohammad Ashraf Pal
Corresponding author: e-mail address: [email protected] Phone: 0194-2262215 (O) 0194-2300871 (R) 09858336944 (Cell)
Milk Based Food Specialties of Kashmir
Mohammad Ashraf Pal
Milk has since ages been an integral part of the diet of the majority of the people
in Kashmir. A routine diet comprised the staple food like rice and other cereals made into
porridge or flour and transformed into bread, vegetables, meat, poultry lots of spices and
condiments and unlimited milk. Milk in Kashmir is referred to by many of its adjectival
descriptions like Dodhe Rehmat, Dodhe Barket, Dodhe Noor etc. and constitutes so
important an economical, cultural and social element that it may well be one of the
unique local Jungian archetype in its collective existence.
Milk and milk products along with meat, poultry, fish and other food products have
been molded, transformed and designed by glutinous Kashmiri genius into so many
nuances and varieties that their reputation and renown has spread over the entire world.
In recent times the food expositions held in some major cities of India, Europe, Middle
East and North America portrayed the Kashmiri Wazwan and the response exhibited by
the participants was overwhelming and the quality and flavour of such products was
invariably stated to be irresistable and exotic. There has been a complex history of
cultural exchange in Kashmir as a result of the influence of various rulers who
represented a varied cultural origin. However, without resorting to the plagiarism and in
the absence of any conspicuous cultural traceability, some exclusively Kashmiri milk
based specialties which are a symbolic representation of the local culture are presented in
this paper for documentation.
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Meat Based Specialties
Aab Gosht: Aab gosht is a union of two Persian/Urdu/Kashmiri words Aab and
gosht the former meaning the water and the latter meat. In this moderate to relatively
large sized meat pieces are selected and cuts of choice include the sacro-coccygeal and
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirthe whole shoulder portions. Cuts from other parts of the carcass can also be
incorporated. The meat is sized into uniform pieces, the fascia and other associated
tissues are trimmed off and the spinal cord removed scrupulously from the cuts involving
backbone. The meat is boiled vigorously along with the salt and spices that include
cinnamon, aniseed, cardamom and other spices except those imparting any color to the
preparation such as turmeric, saffron etc. The meat upon having tenderized moderately by
cooking is kept aside and the whole milk containing 3-4% fat 8-10% SNF is cooked
separately and condensed to a relatively thicker consistency. This is accomplished by
regulating the heat and by constant stirring and scrapping. The meat along with the
extract, spices and condiments is passed through a course muslin cloth into the vessel
containing milk to exclude the undesirable remains of spice husks, bone pieces etc. The
meat is picked by hand and put into the milk and cooking is continued until the optimum
tenderness of meat and consistency of gravy is achieved.
The product is prepared at home at special occasions and constitutes an
inseparable component of the world famous traditional Kashmiri Wazwan. The recent
improvisations include the replacement of fluid whole milk with whole milk powder
reconstituted some what thicker by incorporating 4-5 times water before cooking. The
product has a salty cum sweetish, moderately spiced flavor with a combination of rich
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flavoring compounds of meat and milk and a viscid gravy of uniquely pleasant sensory
characteristics.
Naate Yekhin: Naate Yekhin is a combination of two Kashmiri words nate meaning meat
and yekhin meaning thick viscid gravy obtained by cooking sour dahi. In this the
moderately sized meat pieces are selected. After having cleaned and cleared off of all
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirpossible adhered attachments, the meat pieces are cooked in water with spices and
condiments kept in a pouch of muslin cloth. The cooking is continued till a desired
tenderness of meat is attained. On the other hand whole milk Dahi of approximately 0.7-
1.0% acidity and about 10-12% total solids is stirred manually or mechanically in order
to make it a free flowing non granular fluid. The stirred curd is then cooked with constant
stirring cum scraping until a peculiar odor of yekhin emanates from it and it attains a
desired consistency. After this the meat pieces and gravy are cooked together with the
cooked curd until the optimum tenderness of meat and consistency of gravy is attained.
The remnants of the spices in the muslin cloth are excluded. The spices comprise of the
similar constitution as for the preparation of Aab gosht. The preparation is served at
special occasions and is available in the restaurants as a ready-to-eat product within as
well as outside the state.
Hindi Roganjosh: The preparation involves the selection of meat pieces which are
relatively leaner and moderately sized. The meat is cooked till the desired texture is
attained. The whole range of spices comprising the red chilies, saffron, turmeric,
cinnamon, aniseed, cardamom, clove, black pepper etc are added while cooking is carried
out. The whole milk curd as in case of Nate Yekhin is prepared until a relatively thicker
consistency is attained and thereafter the meat and the cooked curd are amalgamated and
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cooking continued till the desired flavor ensues and meat and gravy attains desired
texture and consistency respectively. This dish constitutes an integral component of
Kashmiri Wazwan and is prepared at domestic level on special occasion besides being
available at almost all restaurants.
Milk Food Specialties of KashmirGoshtab: Goshtab is again a combination of two words gosht and aab meaning the meat
and the water respectively. The product is popular among the local populace and those
who have tasted it once can hardly resist taking it again and again. The product is
prepared by pounding the meat from almost any portion of the carcass. At times the heart
muscles, kidney and rib skirts are also incorporated. The hot boned meat is a necessary
prerequisite. The fresh fat preferably from the same carcass is added at the rate of about
20-25% by weight. The meat and the fat are pounded with the aid of a wooden mallet on
a special kind of a meat stone with smooth flat surface. The visible fascia, tendons,
connective tissue, veins etc. are removed manually. The pounding is continued till an
emulsion of desired consistency is attained which is judged by the specialist expert cooks
known as Wazas or Ashpazan, who have inherited the cooking skills from their ancestors
and pass these onto from generation to generation.
The meat emulsion is then rolled out to make balls of varying sizes. The usually
encountered diameter of the meat balls ranges from 5-12 cm. The meat balls are cooked
in water to coagulate the proteins and prevent the leakage of fat and the cooking is
continued till the desired texture of the product is attained. The spices normally
incorporated include the cinnamon, cardamom, aniseed etc. The tainting spices and
condiments are excluded. The whole milk curd of about 0.75% acidity is stirred either
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manually or mechanically to ensure that no granules are left within the curd. The stirred
curd is cooked with utmost precaution at an optimum heat and carefully regulated speed
until a rich non granular and viscid consistency of the curd is attained. The meat balls are
later transferred to the curd along with the meat extract through a coarse muslin cloth in
order to exclude the components that may affect the consistency of the other wise
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmiruniformly non granular gravy called yekhin. The salt and flavoring condiments are added
and cooking is concluded only when the desired odor has emanated and optimum texture
of the meat balls and consistency of the gravy is attained.
The product has been subjected to the mechanization for adapting to the
continuous production system but traditional method of production could not so far be
emulated by the mechanical means. A number of studies were carried out to find out if
machine mincing could replace the traditional manual pounding; hot boned meat could be
replaced with chilled/frozen cold boned meat; different meat/fat ratios could be used to
manipulate the amount and type of fat to be incorporated. However the traditional system
of goshtab production could not be emulated so far. The nutritional studies revealed it to
be an excellent source of energy and proteins along with vitamins and minerals. The
sensory evaluation studies have rated this product at excellent scales. There has been a
moderate stride in so far the long term preservation of goshtab is concerned. The product
is now available at departmental stores in a canned form and has gained remarkable
popularity within and outside India.
The product is white in appearance and has extremely soft and mellow
characteristics. Upon slicing it has no jags and presents a pleasantly smooth and uniform
view. Upon pressing it assumes fine elastic characteristics and regains its original shape
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immediately. It has an extremely rich flavor with a composite sensation of sour and salty
taste and highly desirably aroma of meat and curd. At the end the product leaves an
exquisite after taste which is relished even hours after finishing the meal.
Danival Kurma: Relatively smaller meat pieces from all over the carcass are selected for
the preparation of this culinary delight. The sizing left over can also be salvaged in this
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirpreparation. The meat is cooked along with usual spices and condiments till it achieves a
desirable texture. The pre-cooked whole milk or reconstituted whole milk powder is
added at the end and, for garnishing, the green coriander leaves in copious quantities are
added. The dish is served during marriage functions and prepared in the common kitchen
at special occasions and holidays. This preparation exists in the menu list of all standard
restaurants in Kashmir.
Tripe Yekhin (Dembin Yekhin): The tripe comprises of the rumen, reticulum, omasum
and abomasum with attached duodenal portion (honey comb and turkey towel etc) from
sheep and goat carcasses and constitutes the raw material for the preparation of this dish.
The tripe is thoroughly cleaned and boiled for about 30 minutes. The upper mucosal
layers become easily removable with hand as well as with knife, scrapper or metallic
scrubber. A few washings with warm water are applied and the tripe sized uniformly into
appropriately presentable pieces. The remaining process is similar as that for goshtab
preparation in that the yekhin preparation remains the same and the meat balls are
replaced with processed and sized tripe. The tripe yekhin is a less expensive source of
highly delicious and nutritious culinary preparation for the middle and lower strata
segments of the society to rejoice and relish. It allows for an efficient utilization of
livestock by-products thereby making the trade lucrative on one hand and on the other
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hand improves the socio-economic and nutritional status of the traders and consumers
alike.
Poultry and Poultry Products based specialties
Dodhe Kokur: A complex of two words former implying the milk and the latter the
chicken. The broilers of about 1.5 to 2 kg live weight are processed for this preparation. It
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmiris usually served as a whole chicken, however, halves and quarters are also not un
common. It is served most commonly during marriage functions and the first sight of the
rice plate stimulates the gustatory apparatus of the guests by having simultaneously a
white garnished chicken on one hand and reddish brown tandoori chicken on the other.
The chicken while preparing is cleaned of all visible accessory tissues. The carcass is
then specially positioned for preparation before cooking and held in that position with the
aid of a string tied around the carcass at specific places. The whole chicken is then
cooked with recommend spices and condiments till it attains the desirable texture and is
then dipped in pre cooked whole milk or reconstituted whole milk powder and cooked
further by maintaining a moderate ebullition. The thread is removed from the cooked
chicken and it is garnished with the green coriander leaves and almond kernels before
placing it over the copper rice plate along with other traditional delights. This chicken
preparation has a uniquely distinctive taste and flavor which one can perceive upon
tasting it in a live feast/ function.
Dodhe Thool: Thool is a Kashmiri word implying the egg. The eggs are cooked in the
same fashion as that for a poached egg. Whole milk is later poured into the pan and
spices and condiments like turmeric, ground garlic, cumin, salt etc. are added. The
contents are boiled with lid on for some time till the gravy attains the desirable
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consistency. This preparation is a common place in the Kashmiri kitchen and it is not
served in either marriage parties or restaurants. The preparation is highly relished by the
children, adolescent and adults alike. People suffering from duodenal ulcers are
sometimes advised to take this preparation, by the elders, out of their experience and
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirthe understanding that it doest not inflict any injuries to the stomach as it contains milk as
protectant and has no harsh species like red chilies etc.
Thool Yekhin: The moderate to large sized eggs are boiled and the shell is peeled off.
This egg is then pierced at the surface from all sides with the help of a fine tooth pick.
The eggs are then deep fried till the surface turns brown. The yekhin is prepared with the
help of the curd and other spices and condiments as mentioned above for other yekhin
based products. The fried eggs are later cooked in this yekhin till the consistency of the
gravy and overall flavor becomes desirable. This preparation is served at special
occasions such as during anniversary celebrations of the saints who had not taken meat
during their life time like Batamaloo Sahib, Khawaja Masood Wali sahib, Pampore etc.
The dish is prepared and served at domestic level but not during marriage functions.
Fish based specialties
Gaad Goshtab: Gaad in Kashmiri language signifies the fish. The fresh water fish such
as Trout, Schizothorax, Mirror and Silver carp etc. of mature age are selected for the
preparation of this dish. The bony skeleton is removed after de-scaling and cleaning off
the offal. The fish pieces are then washed to ensure that there are no spikes, scales and
skeletal remains etc. adhered with the processed fish .The fish is then cut into suitable
pieces and pounding with a wooden mallet is commenced over a special meat pounding
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stone. The fat from various animal and rarely plant sources is used to the extent of about
10-20% for incorporation with the dough; however, the fat from sheep carcasses is most
common. The salt is added to the mix at periodical intervals. To the mix, is then added
the spices and condiments in appropriate quantities and the dough is then worked out in
moderately sized balls and these balls are cooked in water till the coagulation of the
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirproteins take place and balls attain a firm texture. The meat balls are then cooked in
Yekhin the special gravy as mentioned before, for a period necessary enough to impart
desirable sensory characteristic to the product. This preparation is a true delicacy and is
not that common a product. However the preparation is available in all standard
restaurants and is prepared at domestic level at special occasion and holidays to serve the
guests of remarkable significance.
Gaad Yekhin: The fish of mature age and desirable variety are processed as mentioned
above. The pieces are carved skillfully and selection of pieces excludes the head and tail
portions. The uniformity is ensured and the pieces are cooked in water with spices,
condiments, salt etc. The Yekhin is simultaneously prepared and the cooked fish pieces
and yekhin are mixed together and cooking continued till the desired texture and flavor is
attained. The preparation exists in the menu list of all standard restaurants in Kashmir and
is prepared at occasions in the common kitchen by the house wives.
Exclusive Milk Based Specialties
These preparations are no different than their counterparts elsewhere in Indian
subcontinent with very fine distinction and different nomenclature which is elucidated
below:
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Schaaman: Schaaman in Kashmir is what paneer is in other parts of Indian subcontinent.
This product is said to have its origin in this region. The cow milk paneer is abundantly
available with exquisite sensory characteristics like mild fruity smell, acidic taste, mellow
and soft texture and extra ordinary frying characteristics. The cutability of the product is
excellent. It is usually said that cow milk does not make a suitable raw material for a
good quality paneer and pretreatments like addition of calcium chloride and heat
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirtreatment alterations have been advocated by several workers at various occasions. But
traditional paneer production in Kashmir has been so old and successful that it sparingly
needed any of these technological interventions for improvement. The buffalo milk
paneer, on the other hand, imported from Punjab is not liked by the local populace
criticizing it to be hard, rubbery and lacking the mellow characteristics. In a
predominantly meat eating Kashmiri society, Schaaman is considered to be the most
suitable alternative for meat in the days of meat scarcity.
Geau: Geau is the Kashmiri name given to the clarified butter fat or ghee. The traditional
manufacturing of geau is almost an exclusive domain of the nomadic tribal people of
J&K called the Gujjars who keep buffaloes in addition to other animals. They use buffalo
milk either alone or mixed with the milk of cow and other small ruminants for the
production of geau and sell it to the middle men who market it in urban consumption
areas. In Kashmir geau is not liked by the majority of the people criticizing it to be sticky
to the palate and is used most commonly for the preparation of halwa at festivals and
during marriage parties. Routine diet of an ordinary Kashmiri does not include geau.
Traditionally the geau is also utilized for the preparation of a wheat flour based
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preparation called Kulcha for use at special occasions and by women during immediate
post-partum period.
Thaen: Thaen is synonymous with makkhan or butter in Kashmir. Some three decades
before locally produced butter (Thaen) was a common commodity. At Hazratbal shrine
on every Friday a market of great grandeur is held even to date. About a decade before
the commodities offered for sale would include in addition to other articles the thaen in
the form of about 250g balls floating in clean water in an earthen container. However,
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirwith the enhancement of the processing capacities of the Dairy plants, the packaged
processed butter offered for sale by the organized sector have dominated the market and
has almost totally replaced the traditional thaen at least in urban areas. This has been
further facilitated by the peoples’ consciousness towards health and hygiene.
Zamut Dodh: This is a fermented milk product and represents the Kashmir counterpart of
Indian dahi or Arbian Lebn and European curd or yoghurt. The difference between Zamut
dodh and dahi is that the source of raw material is almost exclusively the cow milk in the
former as against the cow and buffalo milk admixtures or buffalo milk alone the latter.
Sensory characteristics are comparable between the two. Based on experience and in the
absence of any valid statistics it wouldn’t be an undue magnification to state that the
consumption of Zamut dodh in Kashmir is much higher compared to other parts of India
and its uses are myriad. The recent development includes the availability of Zamut dodh
in cups in the market which has become very popular during serving at marriage
functions owing to its being convenient to handle and serve. Traditionally Zamut dodh is
served in beautiful earthen/copper pots of about 1.5-2.0 kg capacity to the guests at
marriage ceremonies and other auspicious occasions.
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Maush Kraer: It is a heat and acid coagulated dairy product prepared by coagulating
milk with some easily available coagulating agents like sour buttermilk and working out
coagulum into a pat. Small balls made out of the pat are later given a circular shape of
varying diameters ranging from 5 to 20 cms with a thickness of about 0.3 to 0.5 cm. The
tribal communities in the upper hilly regions and people in some parts of the Jammu
Division of J&K State refer this product as Kalari. This is considered to be a dairy
delicacy often being served in feasts and marriage parties to the valued guests. The word
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmir‘Maush’ implies the buffalo and Kraer is presumably a modified form of Krai meaning a
pan in Kashmiri. The product is prepared either from cow’s or buffalo’s milk or a mixture
thereof and the most commonly used coagulating agent is the sour butter milk. The
traditional manufacturing procedure involves one part of cow’s milk to be incorporated
with two parts of buttermilk of buffalo origin or buffalo milk and cow’s buttermilk mixed
in equal proportion. The mixture is then brought to boil with constant stirring till whey
separates out upon commencement of the coagulation. Cooking of curd is continued for
some time till whey gets completely cleared. The whey is then drained out through the
muslin cloth. Small balls made out of the coagulated mass are spread out skillfully into a
circular shape with hands. The product thus obtained is dried under the sun by placing the
products on rocks, wooden planks or some other suitable places practically free from dirt,
dust, insects, birds and other potentially hazardous objects.
Summer season is considered to be most suitable for its manufacture; however,
the product can be prepared throughout the year depending upon the availability of raw
material. Besides being a salubrious food, Maush Krear is believed to possess
antidiarrhoeal, anticold and antitussive properties. The product has a tremendous market
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potential and is considered a delicacy throughout the state. It is consumed after frying it
with some suitable frying medium along with spices and condiments. It is also consumed
in the form of culinary dish in combination with vegetables and gravy. Buttermilk
cheeses in Europe, Tibet Cheese in Tibet and Chugga or Churpi in Napal are some of the
documented products with similarities in characteristics and utilization. The method of
manufacture of Maush Kraer is traditional, primitive and more or less limited and offers
a great scope for development. The efforts are needed to be directed towards modernizing
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirthe processing parameters on the scientific lines with respect to the raw material use,
processing techniques, end product characteristics, preservation and value addition.
Vegetable specialties
Dodh Al: Dodh in Kashmiri language implies milk and al literally means the bottle
gourd and in this case the pumpkin locally known as Masheud Al is used for the
preparation of this dish. A tender pumpkin of sufficiently large size is cut in to
moderately sized pieces. The skin of the pumpkin is peeled off and pieces are boiled till
they become tender enough to be worked out into a paste. The particulate and fibrous
matter is taken out of the mix and into this the curd which had been hung in a muslin
cloth for some tome to drain out whey completely is added and contents are mixed
thoroughly along with honey, salt, cumin etc. till a desired consistency is attained. The
product is served cold in marriage parities and at other special occasion. The preparation
is made at home also by the house wives.
Al-Yekhin: Fresh or dried bottle gourd constitutes the chief raw material for the
preparation of this dish. The bottle gourds are peeled, cleaned, cut into thin circular
pieces or long threads of about 5 to 6 cm and cooked in water along with salt and spices.
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The Yekhin is prepared as mentioned earlier and the two components are mixed and
cooked together till the gravy attains a desirable consistency and a desired flavor
emanates from the preparation. Another version of this preparation involves frying and
cooking of the bottle gourd fragments usually in a routine fashion with all spices
including red pepper powder and turmeric powder etc and at the end the stirred dahi is
added and mixed with the contents warmed for a short duration and served. The dish is
liked by the local populace to a remarkable extent. The dried bottle gourd cooked in the
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirsame fashion and at the end flooded with copious amount of whole milk in place of
stirred dahi is also a popular dish in Kashmir. This preparation is sometimes said to be
beneficial for the persons suffering from hyperacidity and duodenal ulcers. The dish
possesses exotic sensory characteristic.
Gund Yekhin: Gund is a local name given to onions. Relatively larger sized onion are
peeled and cut laterally in a manner so that the concentric shape of the rings remains
intact. These cut onion compact rings are fried moderately in some suitable frying
medium and at the end the finely stirred dahi of moderate acidity (0.70%) is added. The
spices and condiments are added and cooking continued till the desirable characteristics
in the product are attained. The dish is served with the rice and other vegetable and meat
preparations are served simultaneously. The garnishing is carried out using green
coriander leaves and dried mint powder sprinkled over the dish in the serving bowl.
Aloo-yekhin: Moderately sized potatoes preferably the shopiani variety is boiled in water
with salt. The skin is peeled off and moderate frying carried out in hydrogenated
vegetable fat or mustarded oil. The fried potatoes are later cooked in the same pan with
other condiments and spices. The yekhin prepared separately is eventually mixed with the
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potatoes and cooking is continued until desirable characteristics in the product are
attained. The dish possesses unique sensorial characteristics which is liked by the people
of all age groups alike especially the children who relish to taste the delight the most.
Dodh-Wangan: Wangan in Kashmiri language means brinjals. Brinjals of smaller sized
variety are specifically selected for preparing this dish. Whole brinjal is washed and
quartered with the top intact. The deep frying in mustered oil is carried out till the
moderate browning ensues. Small amount of water is added in the same pan and cooking
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirwith other spices and condiments continued. The yekhin prepared separately is added to
these contents and cooking on moderate heat is continued till the desired texture of
brinjals and consistency of gravy is attained. The dish possesses extra ordinary sensory
characteristics and is served usually with rice.
Phoolgobhi Yekhin: Cauliflowers after washing and trimming are cut into suitable pieces
and fried in some suitable frying medium. This is followed by addition of water, spices
and condiments. The cooking is continued and, at the end, the yekhin prepared separately
is added to the contents. The cooking is continued until a desired consistency of gravy
and optimum tenderness of the vegetable is attained. Garnishing with powdered dry mint,
almonds and green coriander leaves may be carried out optionally. The preparation is
served invariably with the rice.
Dodh Daal: Moong is the preferred dal used for the preparation of this delicacy;
however, moong and masoor combination is also used. The occasion for the preparation
usually is the anniversary cerebrations of the birth of some Sufis in the valley. The dal is
cooked in the traditionally followed fashion and in place of water the whole milk is used.
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The spices and condiments are added at specified sequential intervals till the delicacy
attains its desirable sensory characteristics.
Laer Chetin: The cucumbers in Kashmiri are termed as “laer”. Tender cucumbers are
peeled and worked out with the aid of a traditional mortar and pestle into a fine paste. All
seeds and particles, if any, are removed. The water is drained out and the salt is added
and mixed. The drainage of moisture is repeated and dahi from which practically all
whey has been drained off is added to the cucumber paste along with almond kernel
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirpaste, cumin and condensed milk. The garnishing with fresh or preserved cherry is also
done. The dish is served during marriage parties in the valley.
Doon Chetin: The Doon is the Kashmiri name given to the walnut. The walnut contents
are opened, cleaned and made into a paste in the mortar and pestle. The green chilies,
mint, coriander and salt are simultaneously mixed and ground with the walnuts. This is
followed by the addition of dahi as in case of laer chetin and the contents are mixed
thoroughly until uniformly homogenous paste with excellent sensory and appetizing
characteristics is obtained. The dish is served along side the other preparations in a feast.
Other Specialties
Saboot dana: This delicacy is specially prepared for privileged children and
convalescents. The milk is boiled with proportionate quantity of saboot dana and to this
the sugar is added at the eventual stage of preparation which is indicated by the optimum
consistency of the mixture and texture of the solid contents. The dish is said to be
nourishing, energizing and salubrious giving instantaneous energy to the consumers.
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Qand Sharbat: This sweet milk delicacy is served traditionally among the community
members especially the children at special occasions such as birth anniversaries of the
religious and spiritual leaders and at times on marriage ceremonies by the neighbors and
relatives to the bride or groom and their accompanying guests. It is invariably used
during the holy fasting month of Ramzan in Kashmir at the end of the day to break the
fast. The preparation of Qand sharbat involves boiling of milk with sugar and other
odoriferous substances such as cardamom etc. followed by soaking of “tukhm-e-milanga”
(babr-e-beol in kashmiri) into it. These are small black colored seeds which imbibe the
water and swell to give a jelly appearance in the mixture. The preparation assumes a
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirthick, viscid, fluid consistency and is served either after slight warming in winters or at
ambient conditions of temperature in warmer days. The delicacy is fairly popular across
various sections of the society in Kashmir.
Dodhe Qahwa: This is an exquisitely flavored milk preparation wherein natural flavoring
agents in the form of spices etc. are used in a specific sequence with the application of the
traditional art of preparation. Milk, sugar and other necessary ingredients are boiled and
upon emanation of the peculiar dodhe Qahwa flavor and reaching of contents to a
specific consistency the contents are transferred in to a traditional copper kettle known as
Samavar. This is a tall cylindrical vessel with a central circular space for charcoal heating
and the surface in contact with milk and other ingredients is tinned in order to prevent the
transfer of undesirable copper flavor to the contents. The preparation is relished by one
and all irrespective of the age and sex. It is generally served at betrothal ceremonies and
other occasions of special significance.
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Kateer: This is a thick viscid sweet milk based preparation used by convalescents and
those who complain of constipation and other problems of intestinal disturbance. The
Kateer is a crystalline hydrocolloid of plant origin which is placed for 3-4 hrs in milk
containing sugar. The resultant mixture is thick granular sweet tasting delicacy which
gives a soothing feel to the gastrointestinal tract upon consumption. The preparation is
sometimes used by Muslims during the fasting month of Ramzan in Kashmir.
Firin: This preparation is quite popular and is prepared at home and at special occasions.
It is served invariably at the marriage parties in the end. The contents include the milk,
sugar, condensed milk or khoa, flavoring substance such as the rose water, cardamom etc.
and suji. The preparation involves the boiling of milk and addition of suji in a continuous
Milk Food Specialties of Kashmirflow to prevent clump formation followed by addition of sugar and flavorants in a
sequence. The contents are cooked until a desirable consistency is attained. The firin is
spread over plates and optionally the til seeds are spread over and served cool.
Dodhe Wugra: It is prepared by cooking the rice with milk until it attains a semisolid
consistency. The salt is added to taste. The prepared dish is served in plates and black
cumin spread over the dodhe wugra. The preparation is served among the children in a
locality at certain occasions such as after the recovery of a person from some potentially
dangerous disease or when there are long spells of dry weather. The children at the end
pray for acceptance of the good deeds by almighty and keeping all at bay from evil
eventualities.
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