multi layer fabric design rules

7/29/2019 Multi Layer Fabric Design Rules

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Multi Layer Fabric Design Rules

Double Layer Tubular Fabric


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Double Layer Tubular Fabrics

Double Layer Tubular Fabrics can be made onShuttle Looms, as the possibility of hair pinselvedge.

There is no definition of Face or Back yarn asper the concern of loom warp beam or weftused.

It is only the Weave that cause the usualsingle beam and usual weft to result into atubular double layer fabric.


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Double Layer Tubular Fabrics

We consider arrangement of warp and weft

yarn as of two different layers yarns. i.e. each

next warp is considered to be of face and back

both in warp and weft so the order, for both

warp and weft, will be considered as:

FB,FB, .

F = Face Yarn

B = Back Yarn

Face Pick

Back Pick

Pick Cycle, Cross section


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Double Layer Fabrics Rules

Looking at face, back, and warp, weft we have

4 types of weave possible as follows:

1. When Face Warp weave with Face Picks

2. When Back Warp weave with Back Picks

3. When Face Warp weave with Back Picks

4. When Back Warp weave with Face Picks.


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Double Layer Fabrics Rules

Looking at these four kind of interaction we

have four rules to make a double layer tubular

fabric.

1. Face Warp weave with Face picks as per weave

design required on face layer

2. Back warp weave with back picks as per weave

design required on back layer3. All face warps are up on back picks

4. All back warps are down on face picks


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Double Layer Tubular Fabric

Rule #:

f - b x x f . . o c

f b - x x f . . c o

f f

f f

x o x c x o x c

f - . b . - . b .

x c x o x c x o

f b . - . b . - .

x o x c x o x c

f - . b . - . b . x c x o x c x o

f b . - . b . - .

f f f f

1 3 4 2


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Double Layer Open-width Fabric


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Double Layer open-width

The picking order is the only change in weave

design required in design of double layer tubular

fabric to make double layer open-width fabrics.

If two picks or each layer are combined the open-width fabric is resulted. i.e.

FFBB

BBFF

FBBF

BFFB


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Double Layer open-width

Also picking start point matters, fabric with beopen from the side of starting side of picking iforder is:

FBBF BFFB

And fabric will be open from other side as ofwhere first picking is inserted for the following

orders: FFBB

BBFF


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Double Layer open-widthRule #:

f - b x x f . . o c

f b - x x f . . c o

f f

f f

x o x c x o x c f - . b . - . b .f - . b . - . b . x o x c x o x c

x c x o x c x o x c x o x c x o

f b . - . b . - . f b . - . b . - .

x o x c x o x c f - . b . - . b .

f - . b . - . b . x o x c x o x c

x c x o x c x o x c x o x c x of b . - . b . - . f b . - . b . - .

f f f f f f f f

-->

1 3 4 2

Double Layer open-widthTubula Double Layer


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Double Layer Open-width Fabric

With Same Desired Weave on Back


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Customizing Back Weave

When we have some asymmetric weave like 3/1 twill etc.then the open-width fabric will not have the same weaveon whole opened width but back of the fabric whenopened to full width will have 1/3 twill.

So, as we see the fabric from above, we have to use theinverse of the weave that we want to be shown on the backsurface.

Also if we want to have continuous lines, unbroken lines oftwills, we must have back layer weave to have a continousorder of the warp threads when pick returns from facelayer to back layer.

Also we must have face and warp threads multiple of warpsin a weave.


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Customizing Back Weave

Rule #:

f - b b b o c c c x x x x f . . . .

f b b b - c c c o x x x x f . . . .

f b b - b c c o c x x x x f . . . .

f b - b b c o c c x x x x f . . . .

f f f f f f f f

1 2 3 4

f - . b . b . b .

x o x c x c x c

x c x c x c x o

f b . b . b . - .

f b . b . - . b . x c x c x o x c

x c x o x c x c

f b . - . b . b .

f f f f

Double Layer Open-width Fabric, With out Continous Lines and Same Weave

4321


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Cust

omizingBackWeave

o c c c c o o o o o o c

c c c o o o o c c o o o c c o c o o c o o c o o

c o c c o c o o o o c o

1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 4 3 2 1

f - . b . b . b . x o x o x o x c

x c x o x o x o

f b . b . b . - .

f b . b . - . b .

x o x c x o x o

x o x o x c x of b . - . b . b .

f f f f

1 2 3 4

4 3 2 1

Double Layer Open-width Fabric, After reversing and

mirroring the Back Layer Weave, for Continous Twill Lines

Back Layer Weaves

Usual Inverse Inverse & Mirror


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Double Layer Stitching


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Stitching Types

Multi-layer Fabrics can be stitched in three

ways:

Raiser Stitching

Sinker Stitching

Extra End Stitching


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Raiser and Sinker Stitching

Raiser Stitching is produce by deviating the fourth

rule, All back warps are down on face picks.

Therefore Raising Back Warp Over Face Pick, will

result in raiser stitching. Sinker Stitching is produce by deviating the third rule,

All face warps are up on back picks.

Therefore Sinking Face Warp Under Back Pick, willresult in sinker stitching.

For a given weave of face and back,


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Stitching Rules

Generally stitching are done so that they are notapparent either over face or under back.

So general rule of stitching is it must not disturbthe weave from the layer where it is beingraised nor where it is being taken.

Keeping it in view there are three types ofstitches w.r.t from where it is raised, and threetypes of stitches where it is being taken: Desired Stitch

Less Desired Stitch

Undesired Stitch


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From where it is being raised:

This figure shows backwarp (crosses marked)being raised over facepick (filled black)

The back warp is makinga 2/2 weave.

Case b: is undesirableraiser stitching, as float ofback layer on rear side is

being disturbed as backwarp is going for raiserstitching of face picknumber 2.

Face Wefts Back Wefts

Back Warp


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From where it is being raised:

Case a & Case c: are lessdesirable raiser stitching,as stitching just before orafter the back float will be

severe and stitching willnot be very easy/free.

Case d: is desirable raiserstitching, as stitching is

smooth and easy and isnot effecting the backweave.

Face Wefts Back Wefts

Back Warp


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To where it is being raised:

This figure shows the backwarp producing stitch at facepick and its effect on faceweave.

The dark filled and lined yarns

are face consecutive warps,picks are shown with emptywholes and hollow yarn isback warp producing raiserstitch.

Case a: is desirable raised

stitch, as both of theconsecutive face warps hidesthe raised stitch and faceweave is not disturbed.

PicksFace Warp Back Warp


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To where it is being raised:

Case b & Case d: are lessdesirable raised stitch, asonly one face warp, offthe two consecutive facewarps, hides the raisedstitch. And stitch isslightly apparent at face.

Case c: is undesirableraised stitch, as none of

the consecutive facewarps hides the raisedstitch and weave isdisturbed.

PicksFace Warp Back Warp


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Similarly for Sinker Stitching

Similarly for sinkerstitching, the face warpshould neither disturbsthe weave of face nor of

back while making asinker stitching:

Case a: Undesirable SinkerStitching

Case b and c: are lessDesirable Sinker Stitching

Case d: Desirable SinkerStitching.


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How Much Stitching


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Extra End Stitching


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Reversible Cloth


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multi layer fabric design rules

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