my city*: naples

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MY C ITY* : NAPLESBONNIE ALBERTS INTRODUCES NAPLES, A FEISTY MEDITERRANEAN CITY STANDING BETWEEN TWO VOLCANOES

*Share the simple things in your city. Leave a comment at www.thesimplethings.com

SIM32.mycity_7cs.indd 56 13/01/2015 14:52

1 Vesuvius the infamous: the volcano that buried Pompeii2 The Palazzo

DonnAnna casts its shade over sunbeds on the Posillipo Coast3 A towering arch in

the Centro Storico 4 The terracotta

rooftops of Naples5 Catch of the day

at Porta Nolana fish marketThere’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than

through the people that live there. Every month we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day or to rediscover the charms of a city closer to you, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some armchair travel.

How long have you lived in Naples? It’s hard to believe we’ve been here more than nine years. I was born in New Jersey, but my husband and I have moved around quite a bit, both in the States and Europe. It was my husband’s lifelong dream to live in Naples – it was his job that eventually brought us here and the city’s warm embrace that has kept us here.

What makes Naples unique? The city’s position on the Bay of Naples has blessed it with a mild climate and an abundance of natural resources. Naples is sandwiched between two volcano systems - the infamous Vesuvius that buried Pompeii and the much lesser-known Phlegraean Fields – some 24 volcanic craters to the west that are an even bigger threat. This yin and yang between immense beauty and the threat of destruction seems to make Neapolitans appreciate everything that life has to offer with great gusto.

Naples’ tumultuous history has left behind the original grid street plan which is today’s historic centre and a UNESCO World Heritage site; four medieval castles; numerous underground sites including Greek hypogea; Roman cisterns and Paleochristian catacombs; scores of Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance churches; the oldest Opera House in Europe; three Caravaggios; and a rich history of music, dance, food and wine.

What is it like in February? Naples is a Mediterranean city – that’s shorthand for warm and sunny most of the year, hot and humid in the summer. January and February, however, can be quite chilly, rainy and stormy with metallic grey skies. I love stormy weather and February, the moodiest month of the year is, as the Italians say, suggestivo – evocative. It’s like walking around in a black and white movie. And when the sun does come out, it sits just a little lower, giving way

BONNIE ALBERTSPassionate about art, architecture,

archaeology, history and conservation, for Bonnie, living in Naples is like being a

kid in a candy store. Her curiosity has taken her all over the city and she

records all she sees at www.napoliunplugged.com

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MY C ITY* : NAPLES


to softer blue skies and crystal clear vistas, shining like a beacon on Vesuvius’ often snow-capped peak. The air is brisk and fresh and really pleasant for walking, so it’s a great time to visit the popular tourist spots like Pompeii, which are practically ghost towns in February.

What time of day do you most enjoy?Sunrise. It’s calm, quiet and absolutely breathtaking. The sun rises behind Vesuvius and on a clear day it’s magical. Some of the best views are from Lungomare – Naples’ seafront promenade. If you look west as the sun ascends, the views of Posillipo are just as spectacular.

Can you describe the landscape? Naples is a city of hills that curves around the bay; many have likened it to a great amphitheatre and I would add that Lungomare is the theatre’s front-row seats. The landscape is Mediterranean – palm trees, cacti and olive groves; hibiscus, wisteria and bougainvillea; blue waters, bluer skies and fantastic sea air. And while Naples is a bustling city, it’s not without green space: we have a protected marine area, Gaiola Underwater Park, that secretes archaeological ruins; some 50 parks and gardens; numerous bathing establishments; hidden

cloisters adorned with potted plants and lemon trees and a botanical garden in the centre of the city.

Where’s your favourite outdoor space? At the risk of repeating myself – Lungomare. I walk it almost every morning around sunrise and eat at one of the seafront restaurants at least once a week. It’s where I go to think, to meet friends and to sip a spritz at sunset.

What are the light and colours of Naples like?Spectacular. The city’s sunbaked colour palette – mostly warm reds, terracottas, ochres, and yellows – glows in harmonic contrast to the cool blue tones of the sky and sea. Naples’ colours are an artist’s dream.

Can you tell us a bit about the locals? Neapolitans are passionate and expressive; extravagant hand gestures mix with the musicality of their language, which reverberates through the streets as they work, play, chat, sing, cheer their team, decry local politics, or deconstruct the merits of a pizza. Everything spills out into the street: stores and markets, wine bars and cafés, and of course the laundry, hanging out on lines that straddle Naples’ classic alleyways, which are the de facto living spaces for the residents of the tiny one room bassi.

Where are your favourite places to gather with friends?As we like to say, ladies who lunch, lunch on the

“Everything spills out into the street – markets, wine bars and laundry”

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1 The warm and cool colours of the Naples sky mingle over Mount Vesuvius2 Old meets new

in Centro Storico: satellite dishes above and cobbles below3 Lush green foliage

lines the famous Stairways of Naples4 Lungomare, where

Bonnnie strolls at sunrise and lunches with the ladies5 The Metro Art

Stations project installed contemporary art in the city’s transport hubs

Lungomare. The wine bars in the alleys of Chiaia (where I live) are a great place to meet up for an apéritif.

And Naples is pretty good for food, right? When it comes to food we need say only one word – pizza! Naples is its birthplace. Fritture Napoletane – fried bites sold by the friggitorie as street food – are another delight and of course the Mozzarella di Bufala. For the sweet tooth there is Babà al Rum and Sfogliatella and don’t forget – Naples is renowned for its caffè.

Is it good for shopping?I’m a sucker for a market and as luck would have it, Naples is the quintessential market city. There are around 60, including Porta Nolana for seafood; Poggioreale for shoes and clothes; the Pignasecca for daily shopping (where you can pick up a few jugs – aka reused water bottles – of wine); and Via San Gregorio Armeno, known as ‘Christmas Alley’, for a handmade Neapolitan presepe – Christmas nativity scene.

Where do you like to escape to? I go to Ischia to take the sun and the thermal waters. It’s »

only about an hour away on a hydrofoil, a little longer on a ferry if you want to savour the views.

What has been your best discovery?The Stairways of Naples. Until the 19th century the only way to reach Naples’ hill districts – the città alta – was by ancient steep and narrow footpaths. These are known as le scale di Napoli and there are over 200 of them still being used by the locals today.

What would surprise a newcomer to your city?The contemporary art scene. We have two main

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1 Room with an urban view: the vista from Casamone B&B2 Hanging a-boat at the

Borgo Marinari port3 The dream team of

seafood and spaghetti, both Italian specialities

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contemporary art centres – MADRE and PAN. Then there are the Metro Art Stations, a project that has transformed the city’s stations into public art museums. When the Toledo station opened in 2012 it was hailed as the most impressive underground station in Europe by the Daily Telegraph. New modern art galleries are popping up every day.

What do you miss most if you’ve been away?Vesuvius. It’s what makes me feel grounded.

If you could change one thing what would it be?I’d lose the humidity!

Where would you recommend staying?A small apartment or B&B – San Gregorio Armeno flats in Centro Storico, or Casamone B&B in Chiaia (www.casamone.com).

Where would you like to live if you couldn’t live in Naples?I have everything I could need or want here, so I can’t imagine living anywhere else.

BEST VIEWCastel Sant’ElmoVia Tito Angelini, 22The castle’s wraparound terrace offers up unparalleled 360-degree views of the city.www.polomusealenapoli.beniculturali.it

FAVOURITE STROLLSalita PedimentinaJust below Castel Sant’Elmo The steep descents, zig-zag turns and 414 elongated steps take you 650 metres down Vomero hill to Corso Vittorio Emanuele and another panoramic look at the city.

FAVOURITE MARKETPorta NolanaVia Cesare CarmignanoRarely frequented by tourists, this is the place of seafood dreams. Colourful buckets overflow with fresh shellfish, squid, octopi and even eels.

FOR A RAINY DAYTalaricoVia Toledo, 329A Talarico umbrella is a handmade silk canopy atop a cherrywood or sugar cane handle. www.mariotalarico.it

FAVOURITE PIZZAStarita a MaterdeiVia Materdei, 27–28It’s a bit out of the way and the queues can be long, but you’ll be happy you made the trip.www.pizzeriastarita.it

FAVOURITE HIDEAWAYParco Vergiliano a PiedigrottaSalita della Grotta, 20The tomb doesn’t actually hold Virgil’s remains but pilgrims still journey here for inspiration.

FAVOURITE CONCERT VENUEParco Archeologico PausyliponDiscesa Coroglio, 36Thrill to sunset concerts and plays in a Roman amphitheatre: they run in the spring and autumn.www.suggestioniallimbrunire.org

BEST UNDERGROUND TOURBourbon TunnelVico del Grottone, 4Crawl through ancient aqueducts, raft along a tunnel, and fly around a cistern on a zip-line on a spelunking tour of these underground caves. www.galleriaborbonica.com

BONNIE’S PERSONAL TOUR

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