Sunday Telegraph Travel Section/Back page columnMichelle Richmond

Why San Francisco? The FBI transferred my husband to San Francisco ten years ago. We’ve lived here ever since. While I was writing my latest novel, No One You Know, a Graham-Greene-inspired literary thriller about a San Francisco coffee buyer who sets out to discover the truth behind her sister’s death, I spent a lot of time wandering the streets, exploring the city’s nooks and crannies. San Francisco combines natural beauty with great food, a thriving literary scene, and a live-and-let-live vibe.

What do you miss most when you are away?I miss watching the fog advance up the avenues. I miss the steep hills and the amazing independent bookstores.

What’s the first thing you do when you return?Upon my return, I go out to Land’s End for a walk along the rugged coastal trail, stopping to take in the views of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Where’s the best place to stay? If you want to embrace the city’s literary history, spend a night at Seal Rock Inn, an old haunt of Hunter S. Thompson. Very basic, but all rooms have ocean views.545 Point Lobos Ave (415) 386-6518www.sealrockinn.com90 – 104 GBP/night, double

For a more upscale experience, opt for the Fairmont in Nob Hill.950 Mason Street (415) 772-5000www.fairmont.com/sanfranciscofrom 148 GBP/night, double

Where would you meet friends for a drink?Head over to Cantina for a coca leaf sour, a pitcher of blackberry and cabernet caipirinhas, and a dark room full of pretty people.580 Sutter StreetSan Francisco, CA 415-398-0195

Where are your favourite places for lunch?Just for You Cafe in the lesser-traveled Dogpatch neighborhood is great for breakfast (gorgeous pancakes) or lunch (try a mouth-watering BLT).732 22nd St415/647-3033

Mangosteen serves up some of the best food Vietnamese food in the city.  The filet mignon cubes with garlic noodles are so good I gave them a cameo in No One You Know.601 Larkin St. at Eddy(415)776-3999

And for dinner?The Richmond Restaurant and Wine Bar. Intimate setting, organic local ingredients, and innovative twists on classic dishes from Chef John Owyang. A great wine selection ranging from the inexpensive to the extravagant. Reservations recommended.615 Balboa St (415) 379-8988

In North Beach, avoid the neon signs beckoning from the touristy Italian eateries and step off the beaten path for great pizzas, pasta, and warm vibes at the family-run Tomasso's. No reservations. After dinner, cross the street to browse the shelves at City Lights Bookstore.1042 Kearny St., at Broadway(415)398-9696

Where would you send a first-time visitor?Nature lovers: Golden Gate Park. Start at the Pahnhandle entrance and make your way West. Visit the Botantical Gardens, the de Young Museum, California Academy of Sciences, the bison paddock, and the old Dutch windmills. End with the sunset at Ocean Beach. Film buffs : See a classic at the Castro Theater (www.castrotheatre.com)Bookish types: Green Apple Books (www.greenapplebooks.com)Foodies: Don’t miss the Mission district for great, cheap, local fare

What would you tell to avoid?If you’re propositioned by a seven-foot-tall sex worker before noon on a weekday, chances are you’re in the Tenderloin. Fisherman’s Wharf is fun for a walk along the water with fresh crab, but you should know before you go that it’s a tourist trap.

Public transport or taxi?While the iconic cable cars are worth a ride, they don’t go far. For those with the gift of patience, Muni’s network of trains and buses will suffice. The tiny Go Cars (gocartours.com), equipped with GPS and audio guides, let you navigate the city on your own.

Handbag or moneybelt?Handbag! Preferably something chic but not extravagant. A Gucci bag is unlikely to earn you any street cred, but if you carry a money belt, you might be refused service as a penalty for poor taste. Normal precautions apply, especially in very touristy areas.

What should I take home?Pretty dresses from Ambiance in Noe Valley (www.ambiancesf.com), shoes from De La Sole (www.delasole.com) in the Castro, vintage finds from the shops along Hayes Street, teas and tchotchkes from Chinatown. You can never go wrong with Ghirardelli chocolates (www.ghirardellisq.com).

And if I’ve only got time for one shop?Amoeba Records. Soak up the underground love while wandering the massive aisles of this beloved institution, stocked with \ new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl LPs. Who knows? You might end up rubbing elbows with a rock star.1855 Haight Stwww.amoeba.com