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    http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Nalanda_Gedige_temple.jpg

    Two remarkable tendencies coexisted throughout the Second Sinhala Civilisation

    that originated in Dambadeniya and ended in Kandy.

    Resisting others Kandyan Buddhism

    One of these became crystallized as Kandyan Buddhism a form of Buddhism

    that came to represent the visible and political remnant of the great heritage of

    the ancient Sinhalese. This is the mainspring from which the exclusivist Buddhistidentity draws sustenance.

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    http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Nalanda_Gedige_temple.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ab/Nalanda_Gedige_01.jpghttp://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Nalanda_Gedige_temple.jpg
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    By the time the Sinhalese took refuge in Polonnaruva the South Asian region and

    in fact the world had changed. The great irrigation civilisations were living on

    borrowed time. Exploration, plunder, piracy and trade would become the new

    sources of global power. We were a nation of cultivators that lacked a standing

    army and a serviceable navy. We had no visions of distant foreign lands, no

    tradition of trade and commerce to build a foundation for this new age. And sowe continued to look inward and find strength in the same ethic of cultivation

    and a brotherhood united by a sacred bond to the Buddha Sasana. The Sinhalese

    could not be mobilized to kill or lay their lives down for anything less.

    Court politics for the nobility and kings on the other hand acquired a markedly

    cosmopolitan character. This elite had now drawn away considerably from the

    old tripartite consensus of the village, sangha and king where the Gamani and

    Asoka principles ensured a strong interdependence between these three

    elements of sovereignty. These two principles would remain relevant right up to

    the reign of our last sovereign king to fuel our economy, defence and state policybut their vitality would be markedly diminished in this second phase from 1236

    to 1815.

    Vijayabahu I had fought a soldiers war unlike Dutugemunu who drew his power

    directly from the people. The connection between the king and countrymen was

    less horizontal and more vertical now. In fact Vijayabahu relied on the

    velaikkaras the South Indian warriors to guard the palladium of kingship the

    tooth relic. All this pointed to a marked reduction of the democratic element that

    underscored Gamani Kingship. The plebeian age was drawing to a close. The newage would be patrician where military force rather than the consent of the

    people would validate and sustain monarchy.

    The alienation between the elite and people that set in is dealt with in some

    detail by Martin Wickramasinghe in his work Buddhism and Culture. Sanskrit

    became the language of the lettered, the Brahmins infiltrated court rituals and

    became chief advisors (purohitas) to kings. The unlettered villagers and the

    simple monks who served them continued to use prakrit the simple language

    that would be the distinguishing marks of works like Saddharmalankaraya,

    Saddharmaratnavaliya and Loveda Sangarava. The word Hinduism was not invogue then (this being a term coined during the British Raj in India). Brahmanism

    and Saivism with their locally domesticated Gods had encroached the sphere of

    influence of the sangha and this gave a new impetus to a strong strain of anti-

    Brahmin sentiment among the local monks who saw their role as guardians of

    the purity of the Buddhist faith and by implication of the Sinhala race.

    Kalinga Magha, who lit the funeral pyre of the First Sinhala Civilisation launched

    a savage attack against the monks and nobles who were predominantly of the

    govi caste. Liyanagamage poses the question whether Magha, a religious fanatic

    was influenced by the Veera Saiva sect in Southern India that stood against all

    caste distinctions. In fact the Second Sinhala Civilisation, which placed survival ofthe state (as defined by the elite) before other considerations drew the elements

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    of Sinhala race, govi caste and Buddhism tightly to affirm an ideal of purity by

    birth referred to as ubhaya kula parishuddha.

    Brahmin influence however did not wane. Even during the reign of

    Parakramabahu VI, the last unifier of Thunsinhale the Brahmin purohitas

    continued to function. In fact the last Buddhist King of Kotte Buvanekabhahu VIIwas advised by Sri Ramaraksha Panditha, a Brahmin who also led the famous

    Kotte embassy to Lisbon in 1543.

    The second half of the 16th century was period of profound uncertainty where the

    fate of Sinhala Buddhist kingship hung in the balance. Both the Kings of Kotte

    (Dharmapala) and Kandy (Karaliyadde) had converted to Christianity. Sitawaka

    Rajasinha bore the standard of resistance to the Portugese but ultimately he too

    renounced the ancient faith of his forefathers to embrace Saivism. The reasons

    for this conversion are not clear and Alan Strathern1 states that a conspiracy by

    the Buddhist sangha against him could have been either the cause or

    consequence of his conversion.

    In any event the sangha was hard at work during this disastrous period to restore

    Buddhist Kingship. Even the tooth relic may have disappeared with the death in

    Jaffna of Vidiya Bandara perhaps its last custodian. Vidiya was hounded out of

    Kotte by the Portugese and Sitawaka forces acting in unison against a feared

    adversary. He found sanctuary in Jaffna but it was his fate to meet a violent end

    there. The tooth relic was somehow re-discovered in Delgamuva to serve the

    interests of the Second Sinhala Civilisation.

    Devanagala Ratanalankara was the monk who worked indefatigably to bring theKandyans together. They found their champion in a chieftain a non royal,

    Konappu Bandara, who had defected to the Portugese and then turned apostate

    to re-establish Buddhist Kingship in Kandy. The point here is that the Kandyan

    Kingdom was formed in staunch opposition to both Saivism and Christianity. The

    name chosen by Devanagala for Konappu Bandara Vimaladharmasuriya which

    means sun of the pure doctrine is expressive of this aspiration towards purity in

    an age of little purity. Of course the rank duplicity and infidelity of these times

    stands in contra-distinction to the noble aspirations of monks like Devanagala

    (and also Welivita Sri Saranankara after him) to defend what seemed an absent

    ideal.

    The South Indians kept coming in to be naturalized as Buddhists and Govi kula

    Sinhalese. In addition to these immigrants the Kandyan Kings sought royal wives

    from South India to keep the idea of royal blood alive and to avoid a marriage

    into any family of a Kandyan noble. With these royal maidens came their

    relatives the Malabar traders among them who maintained their separate

    identity, religion and a trade supported by whatever royal monopoly Kandy

    enjoyed under the stranglehold of the Dutch, thus forming a distinct power bloc.

    1 Strathern, Alan (2010). Kingship and Conversion in Sixteenth Century Sri Lanka: Portugese

    Imperialism in a Buddhist Land. Cambridge University Press India/Vijitha Yapa Colombo

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    The resultant anti-Malabar sentiment would eventually separate the king from

    the Nobles who conspired to bring in the British as the saviours of the people.

    Consequently Kandyan Buddhism, which is here used as a composite term to

    denote the ideology of opposition based on a unique Sinhalese identity had no

    consistent enemy. It would sometimes join with the South Indians against thewhite man and at other times join with the white man against the South Indians.

    This selective xenophobia was a result of the absence of clear moral principles as

    the basis of state policy.

    Our Axial Heritage

    The second remarkable tendency is a tradition of collaboration with our South

    Indian neighbours that stretches back to antiquity. It is written down that King

    Vijaya sought and obtained his wife from Madhura thus making the Dravidiansco-creators of Lankan Kingship. Kuvenis children sought refuge in Malaya Rata

    just as the Sinhalese themselves would find their last resting place there. The

    cycle ended with the arrival of Nayaks from Madhura to provide us with our last

    four kings, Sri Vijaya, Kirthi Sri, Rajadhi and Sri Wickrama.

    Just as our ancient history can be viewed as a defence of the island against

    South Indian invasions it can also be viewed as a historic collaboration with

    progressive and sympathetic forces on the mainland from time to time.

    The Dravidian had a special place within the Lankan Royal Court a place that is

    consistent with the origins of the Vijayan regal line and the loyalty they havedisplayed in service to the Lankan crown and Buddhist Kingship.

    Colonial Tamil intellectuals and leaders like Ananda Coomaraswamy, Sir

    Ponnambalam Arunachalam and Sir Ponnambalam Ramanathan were well aware

    of this historical fact and they considered themselves genuine and true blooded

    Lankans. Some of the Sinhalese leaders on the other hand preferred to forget or

    ignore this facet. Democracy and universal franchise promoted a sense of

    dominance through numbers and this alienated the Tamils. Ignorant to their

    common history most Sinhalese and Tamil colonial leaders were blinded by

    English education and their new trappings and they literally dug the graves offuture generations of Sinhalese and Tamil youth who would die fighting each

    other.

    The Polonnaruva Period represents a triumph of this principle of co-existence and

    harmony as this was also a time of extensive contacts with our South Indian

    neighbours. One only needs to compare the ancient monuments in

    Anuradhapura with those in Polonnaruva and ask if the Siva Temples found side

    by side with Buddhist architecture represents a dilution of Buddhism or a higher

    level of spiritual sophistication.

    It is often overlooked that Lanka became a beneficiary of the Axial Age with thereception of Buddhism in the 3rd century BC. The axial age was a transformative

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    period for human societies in China, India, Israel and Greece as this produced a

    whole pantheon of human beings Lao Tzu and Confucius in China, Mahavira

    and Buddha in India, the Old Testament Prophets in Israel and the Greek

    Philosophers including Socrates and Pythagoras who rose to a position that

    virtually challenged the Gods in the sense of blind belief and fear of unknown

    forces of nature.

    These were human beings who swung the attention of the people away from

    distant Gods and rituals towards their own heart and mind; their higher self. It

    was the axial age that bestowed on humanity its most powerful ideas like self-

    reliance, compassion, interdependence and that the earthly body and mind could

    be transcended with the human spirit. It conveyed the idea that human beings

    could evolve into a divine way of life by working through and rising above our

    animal and human realities.

    Axial wisdom acknowledges that different cultures may, in their search for truth,

    develop approaches that seem different from an external perspective.

    Nevertheless the basic motivation and human qualities that drive this search by

    different individuals separated from each other by time and space can be

    remarkably uniform and consistent from an internal perspective. The spiritual

    history of mankind has, from its very inception, been an exercise in

    communication. The great teachers of the axial age sought the best and highest

    knowledge and they were not compartmentalized by current classifications and

    written doctrines produced by latter day priests. It is the free exercise of their

    critical faculties, their wisdom and compassion that provided the spiritual

    scaffolding for those societies that received the axial inheritance. Just as

    Buddhism borrowed freely from non vedic sramanic or ascetic movements that

    pre-dated Buddha, Brahmanism borrowed sramanic ideas to change and reform

    from within. In the same way Judaism, Christianity and Islam represent different

    stages in one search for God shaped as always by social changes and by the

    pioneering spirits who worked on the frontiers of human conscience.

    Both the Anuradhapura and Polonnaruva Periods represent the ability of the

    ancient Lankan to apply the wisdom of the axial age to a changing reality in

    order to respond to human needs in a way that was fundamentally sane and

    constructive without resorting to unnecessary violence as a solution to human

    problems.

    The reign of Kirthi Sri Rajasinha (1847-1882) and his collaboration with the last

    Sangharaja Welivita Sri Saranankara was the last flicker of this same spirit a

    clear application of the axial tradition against overwhelming odds in an age of

    deceit and violence. At the same time we saw in the attempted assassination of

    Kirthi Sri by a clique of Kandyan Buddhist monks and nobles the limits of its

    application in feudal Sinhalese society where hatred of the Saivite other would

    re-surface to cloak personal greed and weakness in a nationalist garb. Kirthi Sri

    survived the assassination attempt to pardon both the Sangharaja and his

    deputy after banishing them for 5 years.

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    The Esala Pageant the traditional homage paid to the revered tooth relic by the

    Kandyan Buddhists has chosen to reflect diversity within the traditional Buddhist

    unity by accommodating the four devales dedicated to the Gods, Natha, Vishnu

    and Kataragama and the Goddess Pattini. This is an express moderation or

    modification of Kandyan Buddhism that enriches and ennobles it; a change to

    the form that enhances the overall substance by acknowledging a wider reality.

    Collaboration with others the Nalanda Principle

    In the centre of this island, connecting the ancient capitals of Anuradhapura and

    Polonnaruva with the last Royal capital in Kandy is found the monument to our

    Axial Heritage of wisdom, inclusion, openness and collaboration. The little village

    of Nalanda may be named to remind Lankans of the great Buddhist University in

    India where the intellect and spirit soared high in Buddhist India. The recently

    diverted Mahaweli River skirts the sacred ground that is tucked away just onekilometre from the main road. The surrounding environment is idyllic and

    peaceful unspoilt by the attentions of our cacophonic organized religion. The

    glory of Nalanda seems to be its unobtrusive and enigmatic nature neither

    totally Buddhist nor totally Hindu; it defies definition, appropriation and

    misappropriation. The architecture is South Indian and Pallava and its

    construction is placed between the 8th and 10th centuries.

    This is a terribly important period for several reasons.

    The Muslim invasions were ravaging India and institutional Buddhism there was

    nearing collapse. At the same time a new phase of Buddhism began under the

    patronage of the Pala Emperors where Buddhist individuals began to leave the

    monastic fold and its limitations and sought a new synthesis of practical living

    that would affirm the original democratic, egalitarian and liberative

    fundamentals of Buddhism. This was the Tantric Age and its exemplars were the

    84 Maha Siddhas who would renounce worldly convention and respectability in

    their search for truth.

    Tantrism influenced Buddhism in Sri Lanka. Of its positive side there is little

    mention whilst the negative side dominates our official history. Conversely we

    know everything positive about Theravada orthodoxy but the negatives are notpart of the establishment but individual deviance. Tantric Buddhism requires the

    same treatment.

    In any event the critical tradition of our early Buddhism was receptive to those

    currents of Mahayana and Tantric Buddhism that made their way into the island

    and this checked the dominance of the traditional Mahavihara.

    This period also coincides with the outstanding stewardship of the Second

    Lambakarna Dynasty which began when the First Sena (or warrior) King

    Manavamma returned from India. He had lived there where he fought on the side

    of Pallava Princes and won their confidence as a man of great nobility andcourage. He was crowned in 684 AD after liberating the land from the menace of

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    foreign mercenaries who had dominated local politics for a long time. The 300

    year period that thus began ended with the capture of the last King of

    Anuradhapura and the relegation of Lanka to a Province of the Chola Empire.

    This was the final consolidation of the Anuradhapura Kingdom an era of peace,

    prosperity and stability due in great measure to the restraint, moderation and

    discipline of the royalty who ensured peaceful and orderly successions to thethrone. This was an exceptional record considering the periods that went both

    before and after it.

    Thus this period began with a strong Pallava influence. The Nalanda Gedige

    bears an interesting design. The rectangle that houses it is divided into four

    squares. The first square on the right hand side is empty. The second bears the

    Gedige in sculpted sandstone. The top square on the left hand side bears a Bo

    tree whilst the second square contains the mound of a stupa. All four aspects,

    emptiness, the shrine dedicated to symbols of worship, the stupa and Bo tree

    represent an ideal of integration and a rich field of educative significance to the

    modern Lankan. It calls our attention to a different kind of

    learning from what we have been used to when visiting our ancientmonuments.

    Nalanda is a place where time has literally stood still. Its message has

    obviously eluded the Lankans who go from place to place wondering,

    who built this? Who lived here? When was this built and what do the

    carvings represent and how can we label this? As Buddhist, Saivite or

    Tantric?

    These are no doubt an important part of the inquiry. But the real

    question is who is the person standing before this monument? What is

    the personal message it bears for me across the centuries? To me,

    who is stuck with a plastic identity card that ensures my movement

    unmolested by the Police and Army and an equally plastic identity

    defined by race, religion and caste that seeks life and meaning in a

    world threatened with change and annihilation? What is the square I

    must relate to and occupy to understand its message?

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