noble companions new puppy handbook
DESCRIPTION
If you have a puppy from us or are possibly interested in one, please take the time to download this new puppy handbook. It has detailed information on how your puppy was raised. We've included some very useful links, along with our vet information. It also has a nice bit of history concerning the GSD and the Czech bloodlines.TRANSCRIPT
Noble Companions
New German Shepherd Puppy Handbook
Topaz Von Noble At 6 weeks
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CONGRATULATIONS!
We believe you have just added a wonderful
companion and loyal protector to your family!
You are just beginning a new life for you and your new
puppy. This new life that you share will be fun most
of the time, and sometimes challenging, but I would
like you to know that I am available with for any is-
sues, good and bad that will come.
In this handbook, I’ve tried to give you lots of re-
sources, tips and advice, as well as listing some of my
favorite resources for supplies, books, and training fa-
cilities. Please take some time to read through it, and
let me know if I can help make this new phase of your
life a happy and healthy one!
You can always count of me to try to answer any ques-
tions, celebrate your victories (whether it’s successful
house training or attaining a title!) and sharing your
joys and concerns.
Noble Companions
719-884-1125
Facebook: Noble Companions
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TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Your Puppy’s History………………. 4
2. Your Puppy’s Pedigree……………… 8
3. Puppy Supplies………………………. 9
4. Your Puppy’s New Home…………… 10
5. Your Puppy’s Schedule……………… 12
6. House Training………………………. 13
7. General Training……………………. 16
8. Puppy Obedience and Socialization.. 21
9. Grooming……………………………. 22
10. English/German/Czech Commands.. 26
11. Resources……………………………. 28
12. Recommended Books & Videos……. 29
13. Your Puppy’s Vet / Free Health Exam 31
14. Sources……………………………….. 31
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YOUR PUPPY’S HISTORY
The beginning of the modern German Shepherd
The history of the German Shepherd was about to truly
begin in 1889, when the Captain Max von Stephanitz appeared
on the scene. A wealthy German, von Stephanitz was born in
the Kingdom of Saxony, in Dresden, to an upper-class Germany
family. While von Stephanitz made his career in the Germany
cavalry, his true interest was in animals; he served at the Veteri-
nary College in Berlin, and upon his release from the captain-
ship in 1898 began devoting himself full-time to dog breeding,
influenced by similar movements going on across the Channel
in England. Von Stephanitz saw the potential inherent in stan-
dardizing the German Shepherd breed across Germany, select-
ing for the most desirable traits in each regional group of dogs
and ultimately creating an “ideal” breed that combined the best
elements in each. He sought to create a dog that was as keenly
intelligent as its lupine ancestor, with pricked ears that would
allow it to hear the coming of intruders, a keen and refined
sense of smell, and a strong work ethic, traits ironically seen in
today's modern German Shepherd.
Such a dog caught von Stephanitz's eye shortly after-
wards, at a dog show in the town of Karlsruhe. There he came
across the embodiment of his ideal – a wolf like dog with
speckled yellow and gray fur, a powerful gaze, and a strong de-
meanor that bore traces of the primal animal within. The dog
was intelligent – easily trained in the skills necessary for a
sheepherder. Von Stephanitz knew that he had found his ideal
for the breed. He purchased the dog, Hektor Linksrhein, shortly
thereafter, choosing to rename the creature Horand von Gra-
frath. Von Stephanitz then registered the dog, rendering it the
first officially registered German Shepherd in the world! Von
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Stephanitz used this dog as his main “stud” - breeding Horand
with a variety of bitches to create litters of offspring, hoping to
create pups that were the model of their proud, noble father. To
further his ends, Von Stephanitz founded the German Shepherd
Dog Club (in German, the Verein fur Deutsche Schferhunde, also
known as the SV), of which he became president, and shortly
thereafter was successful in creating a standardized German shep-
herd breed.
What does Czech/DDR Bloodlines Mean?
The popularity of the German Shepherd Dog (GSD) had
been growing in numbers since their origin by founder Rittmeis-
ter Max von Stephanitz. Little did anyone know what an impact
both World Wars would impart on the German Shepherd breed.
The German Shepherd was much sought after by the military for
their profound working abilities, loyalty , trainability, and their
dedication to their owners or handlers. One of the greatest im-
pacts to astound the working dog world and the German Shepherd
breed was the onset of the Cold War.
Before the onset of the Cold War, Germany was one na-
tion. Great Britain, France, The Soviet Union, and the USA were
allies during World War II. As World War II was coming to an
end, all 4 Allies occupied Berlin. At the end of World War II, the
city was split into 4 sectors. A large dispute arose over the
boundaries. Thus began the Cold War with the Soviet Union
closing borders; hence the two nations for Germany were formed,
West Germany and East Germany ( Deutsches Demokratische
Republik the DDR ).
Many of us remember what communist controlled countries were
like. They were not allowed free trade or contact with the outside
world and were dominated by their government over
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decisions most of us take for granted everyday. So was it also for
the breeding kennels in East Germany. With the border and Ber-
lin Wall up, closed breeding within the DDR kennels kept the
dogs at their standards without outside influence.
Germany now divided became a satellite state of the com-
munist regime on October 7th, 1949, East Germany is now offi-
cially the Deutsches Demokratische Republik - DDR. It didn’t
take long for “The Partei” to quickly confiscate and gain control
of the German Shepherd pedigree registration and financial ad-
ministration offices. With the government’s hand and control
over breeding and registration, strong criteria and tests were set
forth as many of the dogs would be used for their military pur-
poses.
Consequently only the best of the best would be suitable
for their new duties. Strong bones were needed for the great dis-
tances of walking they would endure, exposure to the most ruth-
less of harsh elements also played a part in the development of
structure. Thus they were very athletic with straight lines and a
large intimidating look with large heads, broad shoulders and
large chests. Other breeding criteria that differed from West Ger-
many was the DDR dogs could only be bred if they were com-
pletely free of HD. Dogs that had “fast normal hips or lesser
could not be bred. Dam’s had to appear with her whole litter for
an inspection of teeth, ear set, temperament, coat, total overall
appearance and males naturally had to have both testicles de-
scended by one year of age.
Major differences in the working abilities skills tests in-
cluded a straight wall of 1.5 meters and 1.8 meters instead of the
inclined wall now used. They also had to go walk a balance
beam, 10 blinds to search instead of 6, the tracking tests include
more corners and angles; the FH 3 contained 16!
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Along comes Czechoslovakia
1955-- The Z Pohranicni Straze
The kennel Z Pohranicni straze (Z PS) was founded in the
year 1955 for the single purpose of production and training of
dogs that would be solely used for the protection of the Czecho-
slovakian People's Republic's, and since 1968 Czechoslovakian
Socialist Republic's borders. Most of the dogs were acquired from
the territory of former East Germany (DDR) and also there were
dogs from Czechoslovakia used for breeding; the ones that ex-
celled in their character qualities.
The breeding program, established in 1956, was under the
direction of Mr. Jiri Novotny from 1981 to 2001. Mr Novotny
also was the director of training during this time. Since the foun-
dation of the breeding program , it was focused mainly on
strengthening the good power of bones, dark pigmentation, strong
nerves and willingness to work in tracking, obedience and de-
fense work.
There were three breeding facilities with a total of 80
breeding females that made up the "Z Pohranicni straze" kennel.
Combined to these 80 females were 30 stud dogs, all of which
were on active duty with their handlers. The breeding facilities
were located within the Czech Boarder Police compounds in Do-
mazlice, Libejovice and Prackovice. These compounds had a high
security status with access to them strictly forbidden to anyone,
including Czech Boarder Police, who did not work at the specific
facility.
The females were bred and puppies whelped, raised and
trained all within these breeding stations by military service con-
scripts. These stations were staffed by trainers, veterinarians, as-
sistant breeders and kennel help. Once trained the Pohranicni
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Straze dogs were assigned a handler and patrolled primarily the
border with Germany and Austria to prevent Czechoslovakian’s
and any others from within the East Block from escaping.
The dogs were trained at the kennels for about 12 months
and afterwards relocated to Border Patrol training facilities in
their quarters (nowadays they're located in Czech police training
facilities).
During the years under the communist regime, the
Czechoslovakian boarder patrol and their dogs would apprehend
20 to 30 people on a daily basis. While nine out of ten people
would give up when confronted, the dogs were regularly called
upon to defend their handlers from those intent on crossing the
boarder at what ever cost.
YOUR PUPPY’S PEDIGREE
Sire: Streiten Van Den Heuvel http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/
german_shepherd_dog/dog.html?id=693929
Dam: Abigail Slavens http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/
german_shepherd_dog/dog.html?id=693931
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PUPPY SUPPLIES
Crate For every day – 24" wide x 36" long wire mesh
Similar crate for vehicle transport
Food "Chicken Soup for Puppy Lovers" or any other HIGH QUALITY
kibble - it should not contain any corn products!
1-2 Tbsp Lard
1 Tbsp Minced Garlic
We also highly recommend the Raw Diet. An excellent article can
be found at http://leerburg.com/pdf/feedingrawdiet.pdf
Treats
We like the 100% dried Chicken breasts but we also use dried
hotdog bits for training. Put sliced hotdogs in oven at 200F for
approximately 1 hour or until almost crispy. Place on cookie
sheet with paper towels on top & bottom to absorb excess grease.
Collar Training- Prong Collar - yes I do believe in them, they are like
power steering for dogs.
Everyday - 1" Flat Leather or Nylon
Leash 6’ Lightweight Leather
15-20’ Cotton Webbing Long Line
16 - 26' Flexilead
Gates for doorways The kind that can be opened or easily stepped over. Target and
Wal-Mart have baby gates at a reasonable price.
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2 dishes for food/water
Toys Jolly Ball makes excellent, durable toys but anything the dogs
likes and will not hurt them is ok.
Note: Do not use tennis balls with dogs who have their adult
teeth, the glue mixed with saliva will deteriorate the enamel.
Training Toys Tugs, Sleeves, Ball on a string - all of these are helpful but should
NEVER be left with the dog. These are YOUR toys that you
allow the dog to play with.
Your Puppy’s New Home
The First Few Nights
Your puppy will be frightened and confused the first few
nights away from his mom and littermates. If he cries at night
you have a few different options:
1. Place his crate near your bedside but not so near that he can
reach your bedding and pull them into his crate. If he cries at
night, reach over and put your fingers through the crate, lightly
pet him and softly console him. He should go right back to sleep.
2. We put the crate in another room and learn to ignore his fuss-
ing. We will also sit in the dark with the puppy for a few minutes
just to provide some reassurance and comfort. If the puppy is be-
ing a “brat” and you will know when, we “Phui” him and some-
times use a spray bottle of water to emphasis the he should be
“quiet”. It should stop in a few days. He may soil his crate dur-
ing this time since it may cause him some additional anxiety.
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3.Taking your puppy outside in the middle of the night might start
a habit that is hard to break. Make sure he has gone outside right
before bedtime, and get up early enough in the morning to let him
out before he has an accident. Follow one of the options 1 – 2
described above instead of letting him out. You should get up
and take him outside as soon as he wakes up in the morning.
Crate Training
The crate should be placed in an area where the puppy
will not feel totally isolated, like in the kitchen, living room or
family room. If it is placed down in the basement, out in the ga-
rage or in a closed bathroom, your puppy may feel abandoned and
may not make the adjustment.
You should put an old blanket or towel, something easy to
launder, to use as bedding; but if you have trouble with your
puppy soiling his crate, remove all bedding. Your puppy may be
given a safe toy or chew when he is put in his crate but do not
give him more than one. Favorite toys can be rotated to keep him
interested.
Say “go in”, “kennel” or some other command, in a happy voice
and give your puppy a treat when he goes into his crate. Follow
with praise.
If your puppy cries/barks while in his crate, you may follow sev-
eral courses of action:
a. Shout “QUIET”, as this usually startles the puppy into silence
long enough to get in a quick praise and immediately follow with
praise, “Good quiet”
b. Ignore the puppy, praise when he is quiet. If he is too noisy
and you cannot ignore him, take a walk around the block, go out
and work in the garden, make a quick trip to the store, etc.
c. Totally ignore the puppy (no praise)
d. Pick up the front of the crate about two or three inches from the
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floor and drop it or briefly shake the crate a little while shouting
“QUIET!” Follow immediately with praise.
e. Use a spray bottle filled with water and spray him in the ears if
he is noisy while telling him “QUIET”. When he is quiet, quickly
follow with praise. He will most likely be very wet by the time
you finish this training. Some dogs like being sprayed in the
mouth but not the ears. Lemon juice squirted directly in his
mouth works in particularly difficult cases.
You do not need to follow the same course of action each
time. You may alternate from one to another. Try to stay on your
predetermined schedule. If you puppy is crying/barking in his
crate but it is time for him to go outside or to eat, follow the
schedule anyway. Do not necessarily wait for him to be quiet be-
fore you take him out.
Children should not be allowed to play in the crate or to
bother your puppy while he is in his crate. You don’t want the
puppy to become overprotective of his crate but you do want a
place where he can go for peace and quiet.
Your Puppy’s Current Schedule
5:00-6:00am Puppy wakes up and needs to be let outside—Praise him each
time with “Good Outside” or something that shows your approval
with what he has done. After his business is done, put him back
into the kennel.
7:30-8:30am One more outside trip, then back to the kennel for breakfast.
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8:30am-8:30pm We always try to so something with the puppy for part of the day.
Walks, drives, socializing activities & training sessions. We usu-
ally give them some time on a tied leash or line also.
8:30-9:30pm One last outside & drink and then to the kennel. We also give
them a small snack in their kennel each night, currently it is about
1/2 cup of dry kibbles.
10:30-11:30pm This is optional most nights but if the puppy is getting up too
early, or is soiling his kennel, then give take him outside before
you turn in.
House Training
1. Get on a schedule. The puppy should be able to predict
the time he will get up, eat, be kenneled and go to bed at night.
Take the puppy out the same door every time. Don’t take him out
the front door one time, the back door the next, and the patio door
a different time. To begin with, he should be taken out at least
once every two hours. Timing should begin from the last time he
went potty, not from the time he came indoors. He may have
been playing for an hour since he last went potty.
2. Tie a small cowbell (jingle bells should not be used as
they can catch a toenail in the slots) to a piece of elastic. Leave
about two inches of elastic at the end. Hang the bell on the door
that the puppy will be using to go outside. Make at least one ex-
tra hanging bell. Take it with you as you bring your puppy with
you to different rooms. You should not expect your puppy to go
to the outside door to ring the bell when he is with you in the bed-
room or bathroom.
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3. Take your puppy out at the following times:
• the very first thing in the morning when your puppy
wakes up
• after eating
• after playing
• after napping
• after being confined or crated
• when his training schedule indicates it’s time
• before going to bed for the night
4. Frequently repeat, “Let’s go outside” (or some other key
phrase – be consistent in what you say) in a happy voice on the
way out. You may begin by carrying him but as he becomes
more dependable, encourage him to walk to the door. Continue
to repeat your key phrase on the way to the outside door. Take
his paw and use it to hit the bell and follow with lots of praise.
Continue with the key phrase and praise as you open the door and
take him out. Take him right to the area that you want him to
potty in (make sure it is someplace that he will be able to get to
through the snow in the winter). Walk him around the area –
don’t just stand there and don’t leave him out unattended even if
you have a fenced area for him because he will need to praise if
he is successful.. Encourage him by softly and calmly repeating
“Go potty” (or some other phrase) until he goes, then give him
LOTS of praise (I do not encourage the use of treats for this train-
ing, but it is up to you). Give him only about 10 minutes to do
both jobs.
5. If YOU (and he) WERE SUCCESSFUL within 10 min-
utes – Make note of the time he went. Allow the puppy some free
time to play with you or by himself – either indoors or out. Make
sure that he has plenty of fresh water outside and shade, espe-
cially if it is hot.
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6. If YOU (and he) WERE NOT SUCCESSFUL within 10
minutes – Take him indoors and put him in his crate for 15 min-
utes (give him a treat for going in). Then repeat #4 above.
Sooner or later he will go.
Do not ever leave him unattended indoors. You must be
in the same room with him. Make him your shadow. If you are
in the bedroom getting ready for work or the bathroom brushing
your teeth, bring him with you and close the door (bring chew
toys). Block off doorways by closing doors (attach the bells if it
is a door he would exit) or by putting up gates. When it is time to
go outside, have him ring the bell to first get out of the room and
then ring the one on the door to go outside. Limit his access to
other rooms – do not give him the opportunity to wander through
the house. Watch him continuously. If you must move from
room to room, put him on a leash and tie him to a belt loop or a
buttonhole to make him follow you around. If you cannot watch
him, put him in his crate.
If your puppy rings the bell, either on purpose or acciden-
tally, give lots of enthusiastic praise, repeat your key phrase (i.e.
“Go outside?”) and immediately take him outside. He may begin
ringing the bell just for the praise and/or attention – NEVER tell
him “NO” and do not take the bell down. No matter how hard it
is, even if he just went out 5 minutes earlier, praise him and let
him out. This behavior should last no longer than about two
weeks. If you do not have enough patience to do this, put him on
a leash and tie him to you so he cannot get to the bell.
IF HE HAS AN ACCIDENT, whether or not you caught
him in the act (although in the act is much more effective), show
it to him (DO NOT rub his nose in it) and repeat in your most
firm and unhappy voice “YOU GO OUTSIDE” or whatever your
key phrase is. In this case, try to always carry him, with an adult
dog, just pick up his front paws and walk to the door—you are
establishing control, dominance and that you are the pack leader.
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Take his paw and hit the bell on the way out while continuing to
repeat your key phrase in a very firm voice. If he finished his job
outside (or goes again) give him praise and follow #5 above. If
he did not go, follow #6.
General Training
Long Leash
Leave a long, lightweight leash or long on your puppy
(both indoors and out) when he is not crated. If he is naughty,
you can grab the leash and pull him to you. Never to call your
puppy and then discipline him – that only teaches him not to
come when he is called. Always go to him to discipline. Never
let him out of your sight with the long line attached – he could
easily get tangled and be hurt.
Protective of Food or Toys
If your puppy has a special chew toy, hold it for him while
he is chewing. Pet him and softly praise him while he chews. As
he gets used to you doing this, continue to hold the toy while he is
chewing, pet him near his mouth and continue praising him. This
will let him know that just because you place your hand near
whatever he is chewing on, doesn’t mean that you are going to
take it away.
When your puppy is chewing on a chew toy, get a special
treat for him. Before you give it to him say, “GIVE” and take the
toy away from him. If necessary, show him the treat to get him to
give up the toy. Immediately praise, give him the treat and then
give the chew toy back. Follow with lots of praise. Do this sev-
eral times. This will teach him that he can give something to you
and still get it back. It also teaches him that giving something up
to you and getting a treat and praise (even if he doesn’t get it
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back), may be more enjoyable than keeping the toy.
At meal times, put a few morsels of dog food in your
puppy’s dish. Before he completely finishes them, pick up his
dish, add a few more and return the dish to the floor. Before he
completely finishes them, pick it up again and add a few more.
Do this several times so that he realizes that it’s OK for you to
handle his dish.
Barking
There are different schools of thought concerning barking.
I believe that NOT ALL BARKING IS BAD. You purchased a
German Shepherd and part of his or her duties may require bark-
ing AGRESSIVELY ON COMMAND. Streiten is trained to bark
aggressively when given the command to do so. He is also
trained to stop when given the “AUS” (pronounced owss) or
“QUIET” command. I have found that when something causes
your puppy to really bark aggressively (for Streiten it was seeing
cattle) that you can name that behavior by saying “GOOD BAD
GUY” or something that you like. It will not be long before you
can say “BAD GUY!” and your puppy will obey without the need
of the initial stimulus. Once your puppy understands the com-
mand to bark, it is a natural step to say “PHUI BAD GUY” or
“AUS” or “QUIET”.
Jumping Up
This behavior should be stopped from the beginning. It is
a very difficult behavior to change once your puppy gets into the
habit. Use a command like “OFF” or “STOP.” Do not use the
same command that you will be using when you want him to lie
down (you could use “DROP” for this command) or when you
want him to get off of the furniture (you could use “DOWN” for
this command). Be consistent and remember to follow your cor-
rection with praise even if no command or correction is needed.
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Chewing
Your puppy will have a natural urge to chew, especially
while going through the teething stage. Have a “toy box” (an ice
cream bucket or basket) where he can reach the toys inside.
The toys should be of different textures (tennis balls, nylabones,
rope toys, hard rubber toys, chew hooves, bell balls, stuffed toys,
etc.). If he is able to get a toy, he will be less apt to chew on
things he shouldn’t. If he does find something to chew on that he
shouldn’t have, take it away, tell him “NO” and offer him some-
thing from his toy box.
We use a product called “Bitter Apple” (NOT Bitter
Yuck) to help stop unwanted chewing. The “Bitter Apple” treat-
ment is to soak a corner of a wash towel with it and then place
that in the puppy’s mouth. Hold the puppy’s mouth shut on the
corner for 30 seconds (yes you count to 30) then release him. The
first time do this 3 times per day for 2-3 days, You will then be
able to dilute the bitter apple in a spray bottle of water and spay
the items the puppy has interest in. The interest WILL be gone as
soon as he gets a whiff of the stuff! This IS a “Negative Rein-
forcement”, the puppy should NOT like this and vocally show his
displeasure. The “better” the negative experience, the more effec-
tive it will be.
We also use ice as a treat and “short term” chew. It is a
good habit to get into, allowing you dog to have ice. It will help
cooling him after a hot day of ...
Play Biting-Bossy Mouthing-Growling
Your puppy will be very playful and will use his mouth
and teeth when playing. He may also begin to display “bossy”
behavior by snapping, biting or growling when he doesn’t par-
ticularly like what you are expecting him to do. This is normal
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adolescent behavior that puppies exhibit to determine their place
in the “pack.” You should let him know right away that none of
this behavior is acceptable. When he does this, grab his cheeks (a
fist full of cheek in each hand), lift him so his front feet are off of
the ground, give him one good shake, get “in his face” and say
“NO BITE” or “DON’T BITE ME” in a very firm voice. Only
when he settles, let go and give lots of praise by saying “GOOD
BOY, NO BITE.”
If the behavior continues, you may need to do this for a
longer period of time, saying “NO BITE” two or three or even
four times before letting go. To get the full affect, the puppy
should be struggling at first and should even cry while you are
administering the correction. Don’t forget the praise when you let
go. You need to let him know that you are the pack leader, and
that you are not kidding – you mean business.
Quiet Time
You and your puppy should spend a little quiet time to-
gether each day. While you are watching television or a movie or
just sitting and relaxing, hold your puppy and speak softly while
you pet him and tell him he is a good boy. Occasionally turn him
on his back and hold him like a baby, on your lap or on the floor,
softly stroking his tummy. This is a very important for children
to do as well. Sometimes puppies see children only as playmates
to roughhouse with and they have a difficult times being calm
around them. Arrange for quiet time for your puppy and children
so that both are aware that they can enjoy each other’s company
without being wild and crazy.
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Come
You will need two people to teach your puppy to come.
This must be done in a fenced area or with a long line attached to
your puppy. With the puppy on the ground and one person hold-
ing him, the other person should go halfway across the yard, call
the puppy and turn and run away from the puppy. When the
puppy starts to struggle to get free, the person holding him should
let go. When the puppy reaches the caller, he should be praised
enthusiastically and given a treat. Now that person should hold
the puppy and the other go halfway across the yard and repeat the
exercise. Soon you should be able to omit the treat but always
continue the enthusiastic praise. Eventually, the puppy will come
when you call him, even if you are not running away from him.
If he ever gets out accidentally and isn’t coming when called, just
call him and run away and he should come after you because he
will remember the “COME” game.
Please note that some of the training materials that we
recommend have different techniques for the COME command.
The additional training resources will be listed in the RE-
SOURCES chapter at the end of this handbook.
Fetch
Roll a ball (a bell ball works well) and encourage your
puppy to get it and bring it back to you. If he does, give lots of
praise. If he doesn’t, use a retractable lead (26 foot works best) to
bring him back to you, then give lots of praise. Soon he should
be retrieving without the lead. This teaches him that he can give
something to you and still get it back and it’s FUN. It also is
great exercise for the dog with very little effort on your part.
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PUPPY OBEDIENCE
AND SOCIALIZATION
Learning for puppies begins the morning after they join
your household. An eight-week-old puppy can quickly learn to
sit for his food or a treat, walk on a leash without pulling, and
come when called without formal classes. However, unless the
household is full of dogs, kids and other people coming and go-
ing at all hours, the puppy will not get his critical socialization
at home.
Most clubs and training schools offer a Puppy Kinder-
garten class that fulfills two goals: helping the owner under-
stand the puppy and exposing the puppy to the world. Puppies
should not be subject to regimented lessons in these classes but
should learn basic commands, play a bit with other puppies, and
learn how to behave in a friendly and stimulating atmosphere.
German Shepherd should never be manhandled. Your
dog will do well in obedience with lots of praise, practice and
positive reinforcements. Trust your instincts, if you feel un-
comfortable with a training procedure, don’t do it.
Training a dog relies on the principle of positive rein-
forcement. Positive reinforcement has proven to be the most
successful in training because it is so simple, a child can do it,
and it doesn’t hurt the dog.
This does NOT mean that we do not encourage or use
Negative reinforcement. Negative Reinforcement has it’s place,
for instance the “DON’T BITE ME” command.
We encourage you to take your puppy with you to vari-
ous events, buildings, stores, anywhere you can think of.
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This builds his confidence and teaches him to accept
new places and people. ALWAYS defend your dog from other
dogs, you are his PACK LEADER and he expects the pack
leader to defend him. NEVER, REPEAT, NEVER allow your
dog to get into a dog fight. If he does get into a fight with an-
other dog, there is a very good possibility that he will be dog
aggressive for the rest of his life.
Please note that a puppy from Noble Companions will
NEED to be socialized often. If you spend the winter shut up in
the house and on your property, there is a very good chance the
puppy will behave aggressively to strangers—it is what they
were bred to do.
GROOMING
Grooming should be considered by both of you as an
enjoyable experience. Lay your puppy down on his side and
tell him “STAY” in a firm but affectionate voice. You will
definitely have to struggle with him to begin with but remember
you are the boss. You will most likely have to start out by hold-
ing three or all four of his feet with one hand while you brush
with the other. Gently brush his side and tummy while telling
him “GOOD STAY” or some such phrase. This should begin
as very short, gentle grooming and not particularly serious. As
he gets used to the position, he may even take a nap during the
grooming session. Finish up by giving him a treat.
Your dog will benefit from frequent grooming sessions
several times a week. Routine grooming helps to keep your
dog's skin, coat, teeth, gums and nails in peak condition. As
well as generally improving your pet's overall appearance,
grooming also provides you with an excellent opportunity to
examine the skin and coat for early signs of problems such as
parasites, foreign bodies, skin disorders, mats, growths and
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wounds.
Good grooming behavior should start at an early age, as
soon as you acquire your puppy. Begin by getting it used to being
placed on a steady table for grooming. Use a rubber backed mat,
small carpet or towel to prevent slipping. Teach your puppy to lie
down and/or stand quietly and to relax and enjoy your undivided
attention (see Grooming in General Training). Scratching the ears
or chest may help to sooth an anxious pet, while a hand under a
young puppy's stomach provides support and promotes confi-
dence as you gently brush through the coat. This early training
taught by repetition, correction and praise is important to ensure
that your dog learns to accept grooming and thinks of it as a
pleasant experience. You may, if you wish, reward good behavior
with a small treat at the end of each grooming session. Be pa-
tient. Praise for good behavior and scold firmly if the dog tries to
use its mouth on you.
Combing
Brushing and combing your dog several times a week is
the best way to keep the coat in good condition. On long-haired
breeds like the German Shepherd, brushing removes the dead hair
before it has a chance to mat and also serves to stimulate the
growth of new hair and to help distribute natural oils throughout
the coat.
The most efficient method is line combing, where the en-
tire coat is brushed in layers from the skin out. This is usually
easiest if the dog is lying on its side. With one hand, the hair is
parted to the skin and held down while the other hand gently
combs through the hair below the part. Once this section is
smooth and tangle-free, another section of hair is pulled down
along the part and groomed in the same way. You may need to
moisten each layer with a light mist of conditioner or coat dress-
ing before brushing.
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With the dog lying on his side, use a wide toothed comb,
to start by line combing the front and hind legs on that side. Then
proceed to the body coat until you reach the backbone. Turn the
dog over and repeat the procedure on the other side. You can also
reverse this procedure by starting at the backbone and working
down to the legs. The order does not really matter so long as all
parts of the dog are brushed and combed thoroughly.
The chest and stomach area can be reached by lifting the
dogs front leg or by rolling it onto its back.
Finally, with the dog sitting or standing, comb the head,
neck, top of body and the tail. Any mats or tangles should be
teased out gently rather than pulled or cut out: use your fine-
toothed comb. Comb out the face, corner of the eyes and beard.
With a small scissors, remove the hair from the pads of the feet.
Leaving the hair between the pads is uncomfortable to the dog.
Teeth
Just like human beings, your dog’s teeth accumulate
plaque, which can harden into tartar. If the teeth are neglected,
bacteria can grow causing infections. Regular brushing can help
maintain your dog’s teeth and gums, as well as keeping his breath
fresh. You should brush his teeth 1-2 times a week.
If you start at a young age by scratching the muzzle and
handling the mouth you should soon be able to rub the teeth and
gums with your finger. Then you should be able to easily progress
to gently brushing the dog’s teeth with a small soft toothbrush or
finger brush. Never use human toothpaste as it contains detergent,
which will foam in the dog’s mouth and if swallowed may upset
the stomach. A better alternative is to use canine toothpaste. This
special enzymatic toothpaste is available from your vet or pet
supply store in an assortment of palatable flavors like chicken,
liver and malt. Giving your dog bones, which should always be
large, hard beef bones that can’t be splintered or swallowed, is a
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natural way for dogs to clean their teeth. These bones can be pur-
chased at pet supply stores or local dog shows.
We advise against Greenies and rawhide, as it can block
the digestive system. Never give your dog bones from a carcass.
You may also give nylabones, sow ears, bully sticks and femur
bones. Chewing also helps the teething puppy.
Trimming the Nails
Nail care is a basic grooming issue. Your dog’s nails
should be trimmed twice a month. Long nails interfere with the
dog's gait, making walking awkward or painful. They can also
break easily. At Noble Companions we have taken to using a
Dremel tool with a grinding stone to trim the nails. There is no
chance of cutting to close and causing the puppy to bleed. It is
much easier on the dog and they learn to ignore the funny vibra-
tion feeling they get. It really tickles much more than anything
else.
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ENGLISH
GERMAN
FRENCH
CZECH
DUTCH
Heel Fuss
(fooss)
Au pied
(oh-pee-aye)
K noze
(kno zay)
left=Volg
right= Rechts
Sit Sitz
(siitz)
Assis
(ah-see)
Sedni
(said nee) Zit
Stay Bleib
(bly'b)
Reste
(rest) Zustan Blijf
Down Platz
(plats
Coucher
(coo-shay)
Lehni
(leh nee)
Af/
Liggen
Come/Here Hier
(hee er)
Ici(e see)/
Viens
Ke mne
(khemn yea) Hier
Stand Steh
(shtay)
Debout
(da-boo) Stuj (stuuya) Staan
Retrieve/
Fetch
Bring
(brrring)
Rapporte
(aport) Aport Apport
Jump Hopp Saute (soot)/
Aller
Skoc/
Hop Over
Go Out Voraus
(for owss)
En Avant
(onn-avauhnn)
Vpred
(va porshed) Voruit
COMMANDS
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ENGLISH
GERMAN
FRENCH
CZECH
DUTCH
Track Such
(tsuuk)
Piste
(piss-te) Stopa
Keuring/
Zoek
Guard Pass auf/
Wache
Garde
(guard) Pozor
Bewaken
(bay-wawken)
Bite Packen/
Fass
Attaque/
Mord
Drz
(dursh) Stellen
Out/Let Go Aus
(owss)
Halte(alt)/
Donne
(don-aye)
Pust
(pusht)
Los/Loslaten
(those-lawten)
Speak/Bark Gib Laut
(gheblout)
Aboie
(ah-bwaa)
Parle
Stekej
(esteke)
Blaffen
(blauffen)
Luid
Kennel/
Crate
Zwinger/
Box Chenil Kotec
Hok/
Kennel
Go Outside Geh Raus/
Geh Draussen Dehors Jdi ven Naar Buiten
Go Ahead Geh Voraus Vas Volno Voor uit/
Vrij
Go Inside Geh rein
(gay rine)
Monte/
Entre Pojd sem Ga de in
Good (praise) So ist brav Bon Garcon
(bon gar-scon)
Hodny
(hout nee)
Braaf/
Goedzo
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Correction
Word "No"
Pfui (fooey)
Nein (nine)
Non/Mauvais/
Mechant Fuj (pfui) Foei
OK In Ordnung D'accord Vyborne
Eat food Nimm Futter Mange Vem si
Leave it Lass es
Laisse/
Pas Touche
(pa-too-shay)
Nech to Los
ENGLISH
GERMAN
FRENCH
CZECH
DUTCH
Online Resources
Leerburg www.leerburg.com
Van Den Heuvel K9 www.vandenheuvelk9.com
Koehler Method of Dog Training www.koehlerdogtraining.com
J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies www.jbpet.com
Doctors Foster & Smith www.drsfostersmith.com
White Dog Bone Company www.whitedogbone.com
Krueger Enterprises/B.O.S.S www.kruegerenterprises.com
White Pine Outfitters/collars www.whitepineoutfitters.com
German Shepherd Security and
Abbas German Shepherds www.germanshepherdsecurity.com
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RESOURCE BOOKS
The following is a list of German Shepherd breed specific books that may be
interest.
1. GERMAN SHEPHERD: A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO OWN-
ING AND CARING FOR YOUR DOG (Kennel Club Dog Breed Series) – by
Zoila Portuondo Guerra
2. GERMAN SHEPHERD: A COMPLETE AND RELIABLE HAND-
BOOK – by Diane Klumb and Joanne Baldwin DVM
3. THE JOYOUS GERMAN SHEPHERD – by Kathryn Braund
The following is a list of puppy/dog training books.
1. POSITIVE PUPPY TRAINING WORKS – by Joel Walton
2. PUPPY CARE & TRAINING: AN OWNER’S GUIDE TO A
HAPPY HEALTHY PET – by Bardi McLennan
3. PUPPY TRAINING FOR KIDS – by Sarah Whitehead, Jane Burton
4. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF DOG TRAINING – by W.R.
Koehler
5. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF OPEN DOG OBEDIENCE – by
W.R. Koehler
6. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF UTILITY DOG TRAINING – by
W.R. Koehler
7. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF TRACKING DOG TRAINING – by
W.R. Koehler
8. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF GUARD DOG TRAINING – by
W.R. Koehler
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RECOMMENDED VIDEOS &
E-BOOKS BY
ED FRAWLEY AT
WWW.LEERBURG.COM
DVDS
Your Puppy 8 Weeks to 8 Months
Establishing Pack Structure with the Family Pet
How to Raise a Working Puppy
Bite Training for Puppies
Basic Dog Obedience
eBooks on Puppy Training
Ed Frawley's Philosophy on Dog Training
Socializing Puppies: How to Socialize Your New Puppy
The Ground Work to Becoming Your Puppy's Pack Leader
Training Puppies NOT TO BITE
Who Should Pet Your Puppy
Introducing a New Dog into a Home with Existing Dogs
Introducing Dogs (or Puppies) into Homes with Cats
Dog Parks
RECOMMENDED VIDEOS &
E-BOOKS BY
ED FRAWLEY AT
WWW.LEERBURG.COM
DVDS
Your Puppy 8 Weeks to 8 Months
Establishing Pack Structure with the Family Pet
How to Raise a Working Puppy
Bite Training for Puppies
Basic Dog Obedience
eBooks on Puppy Training
Ed Frawley's Philosophy on Dog Training
Socializing Puppies: How to Socialize Your New Puppy
The Ground Work to Becoming Your Puppy's Pack Leader
Training Puppies NOT TO BITE
Who Should Pet Your Puppy
Introducing a New Dog into a Home with Existing Dogs
Introducing Dogs (or Puppies) into Homes with Cats
Dog Parks
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YOUR PUPPY’S VET
& FREE HEALTH EXAM
Special thanks to our Sources:
1.“German Shepherd Dog (Alsatian) Breed Standard.” The American Kennel Club. http://
www.thekennelclub.org.uk/item/136.
2. “Welcome to DDR Legends. Where the REAL working dogs unite.”\
www.ddrledends.com Pam Cyrene
3. "http://www.prairieshepherds.com/bloodlinehistory.html"
Prairie Shepherds, LLC
Kansas, USA
4.Dr. P's Dog Trainging "COMMON DOG COMMANDS
IN SEVERAL LANGUAGES"
http://www4.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/languag1.htm
Lance Roasa, DVM, MS
Animal Medical Center
15226 W Hwy 24 Woodland Park, CO
719-687-9201
For your free puppy health exam, just tell them you
have a puppy from Rick at Noble Companions when
you make your appointment.
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Noble Companions
719-884-1125
Facebook: Noble Companions
SIRE: Streiten Van Den Heuvel
DAM: Abigail Slavens