northern inner mongolia in winter – trip report inner mongolia in winter – trip report

B i r d i n g B e i j i n g

TRIP REPORT: Wuerqihan and XiQi, Inner Mongolia, China20-26 December 2014

Terry Townshend, Marie Louise and Jamin Tse

Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula)

w w w . B i r d i n g B e i j i n g . c o m

B i r d i n g B e i j i n g1. Introduction and Summary

Three of us – Terry Townshend, Marie Louise and Jamin Tse - decided to spend Christmas 2014 in snowy (and cold) northern Inner Mongolia. Our targets were some of the northern specialities, with an emphasis on owls. We divided our time between two sites – Wuerqihan (2-2.5 hours east of Hailar) and XiQi (c4 hrs west of Hailar). The two sites, although relatively close (c6 hours by car), are very different. The habitat around Wuerqihan consists of both thick and open forest (predominantly birch and spruce), hosting the large owls such as Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa), Ural Owl (Strix uralensis) and Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula), as well as sought after species such as Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus) and Black-billed Capercaillie (Tetrao parvirostris). At this site, we spent most of our time birding along the minor road (Z001) that runs northeast of the town, and exploring the numerous tracks that run southeast and northwest of the road. There is some great habitat to the south of Wuerqihan, too, where we encountered Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula), Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa) and Black (Dryocopus martius) and White-backed Woodpeckers (Dendrocopos leucotos).

XiQi is very different. The habitat to the south of the town is rolling grassland with very few trees. This area is the prime (known) site in China for wintering Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus) and we saw at least 6 of these beautiful birds during our trip, including one adult male. Within a couple of hours of the prime Snowy Owl site (south of XiQi) there are sites for Pere David’s Snowfinch (Pyrgilauda davidiana) and Asian Rosy Finch (Leucosticte arctoa), both southwest of XiQi.

With different habitat and birds, these two sites make for a rewarding trip, particularly during winter. With longer days and, perhaps, less cold, it may be more productive, and more comfortable, to visit in early winter (e.g. November) or early Spring (e.g. late March). The latter must be a better time for Black-billed Capercaillie (Tetrao parvirostris) and other grouse as they should be lekking at this time, and consequently easier to locate.

In XiQi, our guide told us that around 1,000 people visit every winter to see the Snowy Owls (Bubo scandiacus). The vast majority of these are photographers. The main guide here – Zhao Shuanglong - runs an efficient operation including several drivers (some are his brothers) and a network of hotels and restaurants. As expected, there are times


B i r d i n g B e i j i n gwhen the drivers deliberately flush the owls to enable their clients to secure images of the owls in flight. However, by controlling the driver, it is possible to refrain from getting too close and to observe these wonderful owls at a reasonable distance without disturbing them. The Snowy Owls (Bubo scandiacus) are said to be present in XiQi from November to mid-April.

Bird density is low in northern Inner Mongolia in winter but the quality is high. In total we recorded 49 species plus one that remains cautiously unidentified to species level (either Japanese [Parus minor] or Great Tit [Parus major]– seen poorly in Wuerqihan town).

Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus), female, XiQi, Inner Mongolia



2. Highlights

The following are our personal highlights from the trip:

Six species of owl : Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo); Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa); Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula), Little Owl (Athene noctua), Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus); and Ural Owl (Strix uralensis)

Six species of woodpecker : Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius); Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major); Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus); Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor); Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus); and White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos)

57 Pere David’s Snowfinches (Pyrgilauda davidiana) 5 Asian Rosy Finches (Leucosticte arctoa) A single Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus) 2 Pine Grosbeaks (Pinicola enucleator) At least 5 Arctic Redpolls (Carduelis hornemanni) Pallas’s (Carpodacus roseus) and Long-tailed Rosefinches (Uragus sibiricus) Eurasian Bullfinches (Pyrrhula pyrrhula), including the grey-bellied subspecies cineracea

Note that we did not see or hear Black-billed Capercaillie (Tetrao parvirostris) or Boreal (Tengmalm’s) Owl (Aegolius funereus), both of which are present but in small numbers and hard to find. Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum) is another species that should be possible here, although our guide at Wuerqihan, Zhang Wu, told us that it is rare and, perhaps surprisingly, he has only seen it in summer.



3. Weather

At Wuqierhan it was very cold with a lot of snow on the ground. The temperature when we landed in Hailar was -31 degrees Celsius and it didn’t rise much above -25 for the duration of our stay in Wuerqihan, sometimes dipping to -35 or below. Snow was perhaps over 40-50cm deep in the forest and along some of the less-used trails. With the exception of a light snow shower on day two, it was mostly sunny and clear with, thankfully, little wind.

At XiQi there was much less snow (around 10 cm) and the temperatures were much less cold (in the range of -5 to -19), although this was somewhat offset by wind that blew uninhibited across the grassland. At XiQi, again, we were blessed with sunny, clear days.

Arrival at Hailar Airport in a bone-chilling -31 degrees Celsius



The site, south of Wuerqihan, where we found two Hawk Owls plus Black and White-backed Woodpeckers.



Terry at XiQi – very different habitat of open grassland


B i r d i n g B e i j i n g4. Itinerary

On Saturday 20 December we flew from Beijing Capital International Airport to Hailar on the 0730 flight, arriving at 0945 after a short delay. At the airport in Hailar we met our pre-arranged taxi and travelled from Hailar to Wuerqihan (2.5-3 hrs), where we spent 3.5 days in the company of our local guide, Mr Zhang Wu. Here we saw two of our “big 3” owl targets – Hawk (Surnia ulula) and Great Grey (Strix nebulosa)- as well as Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus), 6 species of Woodpecker, Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni), Pine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator) etc. After our final full day’s birding in Wuerqihan on 23rd, we made an evening transfer to XiQi (just under 6 hours from Wuerqihan), where we spent 3 days. Here we saw at least 6 Snowy Owls (Bubo scandiacus) plus Asian Rosy Finch (Leucosticte arctoa), Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia), Pere David’s Snowfinch (Pyrgilauda davidiana) etc. After enjoying our last afternoon with Snowy Owls on 26th, we left the Snowy Owl site at 4pm to take a private taxi to Manzhouli Airport (2.5 hrs). We returned to Beijing Nanyuan Airport on the 2130 flight, arriving at 2315.

All arrangements were made with local guides at each site. Please contact [email protected] for guide details.

w w w . B i r d i n g B e i j i n g . c o mGreat Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa). Wuerqihan.

mailto:[email protected]


5. Detailed Daily Diary

Saturday 20 December 2014

Took the 0730 flight from Beijing Capital International Airport to Hailar, arriving at 0945. It was -31 degrees C on arrival. We met our pre-arranged taxi (arranged by Mr Zhang Wu) and set off for Wuerqihan, a journey that, ordinarily, should take 2-2.5 hours. The road from Hailar Airport to Yakeshi is Expressway (G10) with a rougher (but easily driveable) road from Yakeshi to Wuerqihan. We opted to take the side road from Hailar to Yakeshi so that we could bird along the way. Consequently, we arrived at Wuerqihan later than we could have. But we saw lots of birds. Species seen:

Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) – 2Hill Pigeon (Columba rupestris) - 51Feral Pigeon - 7Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius)- 7Common Magpie (Pica pica) - 18Raven (Corvus corax)- 6Corvid sp, Carrion or Large-billed (Corvus corone or Corvus macrorhynchos) – 6Marsh Tit (Poecile palustris) – 3Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris)– 7Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea) – 1Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)– 68Redpoll sp (Carduelis flammea or Carduelis hornemanni)- 91Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni) - at least 5Long-tailed Rosefinch (Uragus sibiricus) - 25Pallas's Rosefinch (Carpodacus roseus) – 5


Pallas’s Rosefinch, Wuerqihan

B i r d i n g B e i j i n gPine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator) – 2Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula) – 17Snow Bunting (Calcarius nivalis)- 25

We arrived Wuerqihan at 1315. After dropping our bags at the hotel, we went straight out along the track NE of Wuerqihan (with the same taxi driver). We spent the afternoon looking for owls and visiting a “feeding station”, about 15-16 km along this road on the left hand side.

Species Seen:

Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)– 1Ural Owl (Strix uralensis) - 2Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor)- 1 maleRaven (Corvus corax) - 2Corvid sp, Large-billed or Carrion Crow (Corvus corone or Corvus macrorhynchos) - 2Marsh Tit (Poecile palustris)- 3Common Redpoll (Carduelis flammea) - 15Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni) - 4Pallas's Rosefinch (Carpodacus roseus) - 3Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula) – 9, including 3 of the grey-bellied subspecies cineraceaSnow Bunting (Calcarius nivalis) - 1


Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni), Wuerqihan

B i r d i n g B e i j i n gSunday 21 December

Spent the day along the same road and various tracks off it from 0745-1630. Weather was mostly overcast, a light snow shower around midday and very cold (well below -30 in the early morning). A relatively slow day.

Hazel Grouse (Tetrastes bonania) - 2Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major) – 2Small Woodpecker sp - 1Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius brandtii)- 5Raven (Corvus corax) – 2Willow Tit (Poecile montanus) - 2Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea) – 2Common Redpoll (Carduelis flammea) - 45Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrula pyrrhula) - 6

Mammals: Siberian Roe Deer (Capreolus pygargus) - 4


B i r d i n g B e i j i n gMonday 22 December

Headed south of Wuerqihan0745-1630

Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa) - 1Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula) – 2Hill Pigeon (Columba rupestris) - 32Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto) - 1Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor) - 1 mWhite-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos) - 1Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) - 1 (female)Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus) – 1Northern Grey Shrike (Lanius excubitor) - 1Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius brandtii ) - 12Raven (Corvus corax) – 3Corvid sp, Carrion or Large-billed (Corvus corone or Corvus macrorhynchos) – 14Willow Tit (Poecile montanus) - 22Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus) – 4Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus) - 40+Redpoll sp (Carduelis sp) - 14Long-tailed Rosefinch (Uragus sibiricus) – 4Pallas's Rosefinch (Carpodacus roseus) - 2Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula) – 26 (including one of the grey-bellied subspecies cineracea)

Mammals: Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)- 1Siberian Weasel (Mustela sibirica) – 1


White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos), Wuerqihan


Tuesday 23 December

Headed NE of Wuerqihan again to look for Siberian Jay and Spotted Capercaillie. Visited a private site (through one locked barrier and a locked gate) about 2 hours north of Wuerqihan.

Hazel Grouse (Tetrastes bonasia) – 1Common Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus) - 1 femaleLesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor) - 1 maleThree-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) - 1Northern Grey Shrike (Lanius excubitor) – 1Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus) - 1Raven (Corvus corax) – 1Japanese/Great Tit (Parus major/Parus minor) – 1 seen badly early morningWillow Tit (Poecile montanus)- 4Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus ) – 8Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea) - 2Redpoll sp (Carduelis sp) - 7Long-tailed Rosefinch (Uragus sibiricus) - 3

@1700 drove to Hailar (2 hours) where we changed car and drove to Xiqi (3hrs 50 minutes)


Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus), Wuerqihan

B i r d i n g B e i j i n gWednesday 24 December

0745 breakfast; left restaurant at 0850

Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) – 3Rough-legged Buzzard (Buteo lagopus) - 1Upland Buzzard (Buteo hemilasius) – 7Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus) - 2Little Owl (Athene noctua) - 2Chinese Grey Shrike (Lanius sphenocercus) – 1Common Magpie (Pica pica) - 3Mongolian Lark (Melanocorypha mongolica) - 85Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) – 125Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni) - 2Snow Bunting (Calcarius nivalis) - 2

Mammals:

Fox sp with grey face - 2


Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes) at XiQi

B i r d i n g B e i j i n gThursday 25 December

Morning spent looking for Snowy Owls; afternoon at two other sites for Snowfinch and Asian Rosy Finch, Rock Sparrow, Daurian Partridge

Daurian Partridge (Perdix dauurica) - 6Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) – 6Hen Harrier (Circus cyaneus) - 2Upland Buzzard (Buteo hemilasius) - 15Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus) - at least 6, including 1 adult maleEagle Owl (Bubo bubo)- 1Little Owl (Athene noctua) - 3Magpie (Pica pica) - 6Chinese Grey Shrike (Lanius sphenocercus) - 1Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) - 100sMongolian Lark (Melanocorypha mongolica) - 100sPere David’s Snowfinch (Pyrgilauda davidiana) - 16Asian Rosy Finch (Leucosticte arctoa) - 5Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia) – 35Lapland Bunting (Calcarius lapponicus) - 180


B i r d i n g B e i j i n gFriday 26 December

Visited snowfinch site again and then to the Snowy Owl site for late afternoon

Daurian Partridge (Perdix dauurica) – 12Upland Buzzard (Buteo hemilasius) – 8Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus) - 1Chinese Grey Shrike (Lanius sphenocercus) – 1Magpie (Pica pica) - 4Mongolian Lark (Melanocorypha mongolica) - 300Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) – 350Long-tailed Rosefinch (Uragus sibiricus) - 1Brambling (Fringilla montifringilla) – 1Pere David’s Snowfinch (Pyrgilauda davidiana) – 57Meadow Bunting (Emberiza cioides) - 3


Asian Rosy Finch (Leucosticte arctoa), near XiQi


6. Key Tips

I strongly recommend using the local guides and not attempting to visit these areas independently. Up to date local knowledge is needed to find the key species – owls are at very low density in vast forests. Also, Mr Zhang at Wuerqihan has access to several private areas that produce good birds (our only Siberian Jay was in one such area). Attempting to do the trip independently will significantly increase the risk of missing key birds. In addition, there is no mobile phone signal once you are a few kilometres north of Wuerqihan – if you run into difficulties, there is no way to call for assistance and, if you are on one of the side tracks, you could be many kilometres from the road in sub -30 temperatures. This is dangerous. The local guide has high-powered walkie-talkies to contact the town in event of any difficulty.

As of December 2014 Mr Zhang’s car in Wuerqihan does not have an effective heater, so it is well below freezing inside the car as well as outside. Many layers of clothing are needed and special attention should be given to vulnerable toes and fingers.

The driving conditions are treacherous, even for experienced 4x4 drivers familiar with snow – our experienced local guide at Wuerqihan came off the road once and we also experienced two minor bumps with trees due to sliding on the snow.

If you are taking a camera, consider taking “heat pads”. It appears that Nikon cameras are particularly vulnerable to the cold. Wrapping your camera in a heat pad at the beginning of each day will ensure you don’t have problems with your equipment.

7. Map of Wuerqihan area

See: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zarj9XHXHpjE.kzuyw215jYW


https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zarj9XHXHpjE.kzuyw215jYW


8. Full Species List

English Name Scientific Name Chinese Name

Comments

1 Hazel Grouse Tetrastes bonasia 花尾榛鸡 3 seen but none well2 Daurian Partridge Perdix dauurica 斑翅山鹑 Seen very well at XiQi3 Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus 环颈雉 1 female seen at Wuerqihan4 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 红隼 Seen at both sites5 Northern Harrier/Hen

HarrierCircus cyaneus 白尾鹞 2 (an adult male and a ‘ringtail’ at XiQi)

6 Upland Buzzard Buteo hemilasius 大鵟 Common at XiQi7 Rough-legged Buzzard Buteo lagopus 毛脚鵟 One seen at XiQi8 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos 金雕 One at Wuerqihan9 Hill Pigeon Columba rupestris 岩鸽 A flock at Wuerqihan10 Eurasian Collared

DoveStreptopelia decaocto

灰斑鸠 A single bird loosely mixing with Hill Pigeons 11at Wuerqihan

11 Snowy Owl Nyctea scandiaca 雪鸮 At least 6 seen at XiQi, including one adult male12 Eurasian Eagle Owl Bubo bubo 雕鸮 One southwest of XiQi (on way to Asian Rosy

Finch site)13 Ural Owl Strix uralensis 长尾林鸮 2 at Wuerqihan on 20th

14 Great Grey Owl Strix nebulosa 乌林鸮 1 at Wuerqihan on 22nd

15 Northern Hawk Owl Surnia ulula 猛鸮 2 at Wuerqihan on 22nd

16 Little Owl Athene noctua 纵纹腹小鸮 All at XiQi; not seen at Wuerqihan17 Lesser Spotted

WoodpeckerDendrocopos minor 小斑啄木鸟 Regularly encountered at Wuerqihan

18 White-backed Woodpecker

Dendrocopos leucotos

白背啄木鸟 One at the Hawk Owl site at Wuerqihan


B i r d i n g B e i j i n g19 Great Spotted

WoodpeckerDendrocopos major 大斑啄木鸟 Seen at Wuerqihan

20 Three-toed Woodpecker

Picoides tridactylus 三趾啄木鸟 One at Wuerqihan

21 Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius 黑啄木鸟 One at Wuerqihan22 Great Grey

Shrike/Northern Shrike

Lanius excubitor 灰伯劳 At Wuerqihan

23 Chinese Grey Shrike Lanius sphenocercus

楔尾伯劳 At XiQi

24 Siberian Jay Perisoreus infaustus

北噪鸦 One at Wuerqihan

25 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius

松鸦 Common at Wuerqihan (ssp brandti)

26 Common Magpie Pica pica 喜鹊 Common at XiQi27 Carrion Crow Corvus corone 小嘴乌鸦 Common at Wuerqihan but not seen at XiQi28 Corvid sp (Carrion

Crow or Large-billed Crow)

Corvus sp Several seen poorly and unidentified.

29 Common Raven Corvus corax 渡鸦 At Wuerqihan30 Great Tit or Japanese

TitParus major/Parus minor

大山雀 One in the town at Wuerqihan (seen poorly)

31 Marsh Tit Parus palustris 沼泽山雀 At Wuerqihan32 Willow Tit Parus montanus 褐头山雀 Common at Wuerqihan33 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos

caudatus银喉长尾山雀 One small flock seen south of Wuerqihan

34 Mongolian Lark Melanocorypha mongolica

蒙古百灵 Very common at XiQi


B i r d i n g B e i j i n g35 Horned

Lark/ShorelarkEremophila alpestris

角百灵 Very common at XiQi

36 Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea 普通䴓 Seen in small numbers at Wuerqihan (very white underparts, ssp arctica?)

37 Eurasian Tree Sparrow

Passer montanus 麻雀 Common at Wuerqihan and XiQi

38 Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia 石雀 Common at the Asian Rosy Finch site southwest of XiQi

39 Père David's Snowfinch

Pyrgilauda davidiana

黑喉雪雀 A flock of 57 seen southwest of XiQi (on way to Asian Rosy Finch site)

40 Brambling Fringilla montifringilla

燕雀 A single at XiQi

41 Common Redpoll Carduelis flammea 白腰朱顶雀 Common at Wuerqihan42 Arctic Redpoll Carduelis

hornemanni极北朱顶雀 Not uncommon in flocks of Common Redpoll at

Wuerqihan43 Asian Rosy Finch Leucosticte arctoa 粉红腹岭雀 5 at the site southwest of XiQi44 Long-tailed Rosefinch Uragus sibiricus 长尾雀 Common in Wuerqihan, especially along the

road from Hailar Airport to Wuerqihan and also seen at the feeding station

45 Pallas's Rosefinch Carpodacus roseus 北朱雀 Encountered regularly in small numbers at Wuerqihan

46 Pine Grosbeak Pinicola enucleator 松雀 Two on the journey from Hailar Airport to Wuerqihan

47 Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula 红腹灰雀 Common at Wuerqihan, predominantly the pyrrhula but also a few of the ‘grey-bellied’ ssp cineracea

48 Meadow Bunting Emberiza cioides 三道眉草鹀 In the small wood just south of XiQi49 Lapland Longspur Calcarius 铁爪鹀 Flocks encountered on the way to the Asian


B i r d i n g B e i j i n glapponicus Rosy Finch site southwest of XiQi

50 Snow Bunting Plectrophenax nivalis

雪鹀 A few along the road from Hailar Airport to Wuerqihan; one near the feeding station at Wuerqihan

Mammals

Siberian Roe Deer (Capreolus pygargus)- 7Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes) - 8Fox sp with grey face - 2Gerbil (Meriones unguiculatus) - 2


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