oc3230-paduan images copyright © mcgraw hill instructor:prof. jeffrey d. paduan (code oc/pd)...

OC3230-PaduanOC3230-Paduan images Copyright © McGraw Hillimages Copyright © McGraw Hill

INSTRUCTOR:INSTRUCTOR: Prof. Jeffrey D. Paduan (Code OC/Pd)Prof. Jeffrey D. Paduan (Code OC/Pd)OFFICE:OFFICE: Spanagel 348Spanagel 348PHONE:PHONE: 656-3350656-3350EMAIL:EMAIL: [email protected]@nps.edu

QUARTER:QUARTER: Summer 05Summer 05WHERE:WHERE: Spanagel 332Spanagel 332WHEN:WHEN: Mon–Thur 0400-1450Mon–Thur 0400-1450

(Thursday is Lab/Rev/Supp Lecture period)(Thursday is Lab/Rev/Supp Lecture period)

PROPOSED GRADING:PROPOSED GRADING:Lab/Projects (20%); 2 Tests (25% each);Lab/Projects (20%); 2 Tests (25% each);Final Exam (30%)Final Exam (30%)

Required Text:Required Text: Sverdrup, Duxbury, and Duxbury, 2005: Sverdrup, Duxbury, and Duxbury, 2005: The World's OceansThe World's Oceans.,.,8th Edition, McGraw Hill, Press, New York, 514 pp;8th Edition, McGraw Hill, Press, New York, 514 pp;online supplement: http://www.mhhe.com/sverdrup8online supplement: http://www.mhhe.com/sverdrup8

OC3230-Descriptive Physical OceanographyOC3230-Descriptive Physical Oceanography


What to do?What to do?

1)1) ReadReadTextbookTextbookClass NotesClass Notes

2)2) Come to classCome to class3)3) Turn in homeworkTurn in homework4)4) Show up for cruiseShow up for cruise5)5) Ace the examsAce the exams

““Paduan” notesPaduan” notes TextbookTextbook


SPECIAL DATES:SPECIAL DATES:

MPA meeting…6 JulMPA meeting…6 JulR/V Pt Sur Cruise…14 JulR/V Pt Sur Cruise…14 JulR/V Pt Sur Cruise…25 JulR/V Pt Sur Cruise…25 JulExam-1 (definite)...2 AugExam-1 (definite)...2 AugExam-2 (Tentative)…1 SepExam-2 (Tentative)…1 SepLabor Day Holiday...5 SepLabor Day Holiday...5 SepFinal Exam...19 SepFinal Exam...19 Sep

(Sp-226, 1300-1450)(Sp-226, 1300-1450)


SPECIAL DATES:SPECIAL DATES:

MPA meeting…6 JulMPA meeting…6 JulR/V Pt Sur Cruise…14 JulR/V Pt Sur Cruise…14 JulR/V Pt Sur Cruise…25 JulR/V Pt Sur Cruise…25 JulExam-1 (Tentative)...1 AugExam-1 (Tentative)...1 AugExam-2 (Tentative)…1 SepExam-2 (Tentative)…1 SepLabor Day Holiday...5 SepLabor Day Holiday...5 SepFinal Exam...19 SepFinal Exam...19 Sep

(Sp-226, 1300-1450)(Sp-226, 1300-1450)

Thursdays: Optional “Lab”Thursdays: Optional “Lab”


““We here set out with the We here set out with the postulate that the sea, as well as postulate that the sea, as well as the air, has its system of the air, has its system of circulation, and that this system, circulation, and that this system, whatever it be, and wherever its whatever it be, and wherever its channels lie, whether in the channels lie, whether in the waters at or below the surface, is waters at or below the surface, is in obedience to physical laws.”in obedience to physical laws.”

Matthew Fountaine Maury, 1855Matthew Fountaine Maury, 1855

What is Oceanography?What is Oceanography?When did it Start?When did it Start?Who does it?Who does it?


01000 1400 1500 1700 1800 1900

Explorers Early Oceanography

TTiimmee LLii nnee ooff EEaarrll yy OOcceeaannooggrraapphhyy

VikingsDiaz1487

Columbus1492

Vasco da Gamma1499

Balboa1513

Magellan1521

Cook1768

Franklin Map1769

CoastSurvey

1807

Darwin1831

Forbes1834

Maury1841

Bache1843

Challenger1872

MBL1888

Albatross1882

Hopkins1892

Nansen1893

SIO1905

Prince Albert1910

Titanic, Big-elow; 1912

Meteor1925

Chap 1-HistoryChap 1-History



Ptolemy (5th C)Ptolemy (5th C)

Herodotus (450 BC!)Herodotus (450 BC!)



““Pre-Columbian” Explorations of the VikingsPre-Columbian” Explorations of the Vikings

Afterwards, around 1000-1400 A.D., navigationAfterwards, around 1000-1400 A.D., navigationflourished mainly in Asia and in the Arab Worldflourished mainly in Asia and in the Arab Worldwhere knowledge was translated and expandedwhere knowledge was translated and expandedfrom the Greek civilizationfrom the Greek civilization


01000 1400 1500 1700 1800 1900



VikingsDiaz1487

Columbus1492

Vasco da Gamma1499

Balboa1513

Magellan1521

Cook1768

Franklin Map1769

CoastSurvey

1807

Darwin1831

Forbes1834

Maury1841

Bache1843

Challenger1872

MBL1888

Albatross1882

Hopkins1892

Nansen1893

SIO1905

Prince Albert1910


Meteor1925




John Harrison (1693-1776)John Harrison (1693-1776)H4-Traveled with Capt. CookH4-Traveled with Capt. Cook

Aside: the longitude problem = timeAside: the longitude problem = timeRecommend: book “Longitude” by Dava SobelRecommend: book “Longitude” by Dava Sobel



Johannes van Keulen (1682)Johannes van Keulen (1682) Ben Franklin & Timothy Folger (1769)Ben Franklin & Timothy Folger (1769)

Early navigation chart;Early navigation chart;Compass directions fromCompass directions from14c 14c portolanosportolanos (harbor- (harbor-finding) chartsfinding) charts

Based on shipping recordsBased on shipping recordsand designed to help shipand designed to help shiptransit efficiently betweentransit efficiently betweenNorth America and EuropeNorth America and Europe



Average Satellite SST in 1996Average Satellite SST in 1996 Ben Franklin & Timothy Folger (1769)Ben Franklin & Timothy Folger (1769)

Consistent reports of strong northeast currentsConsistent reports of strong northeast currentsallowed Franklin to chart the Gulf Stream andallowed Franklin to chart the Gulf Stream andrecommend the northern route to Europe andrecommend the northern route to Europe andthe southern route from Europethe southern route from Europe


01000 1400 1500 1700 1800 1900



VikingsDiaz1487

Columbus1492

Vasco da Gamma1499

Balboa1513

Magellan1521

Cook1768

Franklin Map1769

CoastSurvey

1807

Darwin1831

Forbes1834

Maury1841

Bache1843

Challenger1872

MBL1888

Albatross1882

Hopkins1892

Nansen1893

SIO1905

Prince Albert1910


Meteor1925


JeffersonJefferson



LT Matthew F. MauryLT Matthew F. Maury(1806-1873)(1806-1873)

Physical Geography of the Sea (1855)Physical Geography of the Sea (1855)Father of Oceanography (one of);Father of Oceanography (one of);began collating records of oceanography observationsbegan collating records of oceanography observationsalong with Alexander Bache of the U.S. Coast Surveyalong with Alexander Bache of the U.S. Coast Survey



The Beagle voyage included naturalist Charles DarwinThe Beagle voyage included naturalist Charles Darwin



Challenger Expedition was first dedicated oceanographic cruiseChallenger Expedition was first dedicated oceanographic cruise



Challenger ExpeditionChallenger Expedition::All oceans-111,000 kmAll oceans-111,000 kmWater column and bottomWater column and bottomsamplessamplesDepth soundings (max=8180mDepth soundings (max=8180min Marianas Trench)in Marianas Trench)50 Volumes; 20 Years50 Volumes; 20 Years



Challenger ExpeditionChallenger Expedition::

Bottom samples identifiedBottom samples identifiedmany new species;many new species;

De-bunked Forbes’ theoryDe-bunked Forbes’ theorythat no life existed belowthat no life existed below550m550m



Fridtjof NansenFridtjof Nansen1861-19301861-1930

ScientistScientistInventorInventorStatesmanStatesman

1922 Nobel1922 NobelPeace PricePeace PriceRecipientRecipient

Fram ExpeditionFram Expedition1893-18961893-1896

Frozen in arctic ice pack for 3 yearsFrozen in arctic ice pack for 3 yearsMeteorological and oceanographicMeteorological and oceanographic

observationsobservationsIceberg motion relative to wind directionIceberg motion relative to wind direction

inspired Ekman’s theory of windinspired Ekman’s theory of winddriven currents (1905)driven currents (1905)



Meteor Expedition (1925):Meteor Expedition (1925):

Discovered mid-Atlantic RidgeDiscovered mid-Atlantic RidgeCritical mapping of T & SCritical mapping of T & S

––Deep CirculationDeep Circulation



Oceanographic InstitutionsOceanographic Institutions

18881888 Marine Biological Laboratory (Woods Hole)Marine Biological Laboratory (Woods Hole)

18921892 Hopkins Marine StationHopkins Marine Station

19031903 Scripps Institution of OceanographyScripps Institution of Oceanography

19101910 Oceanographic Museum of MonacoOceanographic Museum of Monaco

19301930 Woods Hole Oceanographic InstitutionWoods Hole Oceanographic Institution

Post WWII = Many MorePost WWII = Many More



Retired MBARI engineer Gary Thurmond Retired MBARI engineer Gary Thurmond took these aerial shots with a "KAP" Rig took these aerial shots with a "KAP" Rig (Kite Aerial Photography camera (Kite Aerial Photography camera platform), pictured at right. The rig platform), pictured at right. The rig consists of a radio-controlled pan and tilt consists of a radio-controlled pan and tilt Olympus D-340R digital camera, a small Olympus D-340R digital camera, a small video camera for aiming the rig, and a video camera for aiming the rig, and a 2.4 GHz microwave video downlink. The 2.4 GHz microwave video downlink. The video is received on the ground and used video is received on the ground and used to point the digital camera.to point the digital camera.

MBARIMBARI ScrippsScripps

MBARI/MLML dockMBARI/MLML dockMoss LandingMoss Landing

Pt SurPt SurWesternWesternFlyerFlyer

Pt LobosPt Lobos

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