ocean waves wave a periodic disturbance in a solid, liquid, or gas as energy is transmitted through...
TRANSCRIPT
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Ocean WavesOcean Waveswave a periodic disturbance in a
solid, liquid, or gas as energy is transmitted through a medium
two basic parts—a crest and a trough
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wave period the time required for two consecutive wave crests to pass a given point
wave height: vertical distance between crest and trough
Wavelength: distance between two crest or troughs
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Wave EnergyWave EnergyLonger wind blows the more
energy is transferred into the water = larger waves.
Wave movement:◦Energy in waves move from water
molecule to water molecule in the direction of the wave
◦circular motion◦in a single wave period, each water
particle moves in one complete circle◦Only the energy not the water moves
across the surface of the ocean.
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Wave SizeWave SizeThree factors determine the size of
a wave.◦Speed of the wind, the length of time
the wind blows, and fetch.◦fetch the distance that wind blows
across an area of the sea to generate waves
Whitecaps: ◦When winds blow the crest of a wave
off◦reflect solar radiation, they allow less
radiation to reach the ocean
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Waves and the CoastlineWaves and the CoastlineBreakers
◦ Wave moves into shallow water.
◦ The bottom of the wave is slowed by friction
◦ The top of the wave continues to move at its original speed.
◦ the top of the wave topples over and forms a breaker, a foamy mass of water that washes onto the coastline.
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Start of Wave SequenceStart of Wave Sequence
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End of Wave SequenceEnd of Wave Sequence
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Refraction:◦ The bending of
the wave crest in response to changes in wave speed
◦ Shallow ocean water = slower speeds
◦ Deeper ocean water = faster speeds
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Undertows and Rip Undertows and Rip CurrentsCurrentsUndertow:
◦Water carried onto a beach by breaking waves is pulled back into deeper water gravity
Rip currents:◦ form when water from larger
breakers returns to the ocean through channels that cut through underwater sandbars that are parallel to the beach.
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Rip CurrentRip Current
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Longshore CurrentsLongshore Currentscurrents form when waves
approach the beach at an anglecurrents flow parallel to the
shore. Great quantities of sand are
carried by longshore currentsThese sand deposits form low
ridges of sand called sandbars.
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Longshore CurrentsLongshore Currents
geocaching.com
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Longshore CurrentsLongshore Currents
sci.uidaho.edu
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TsunamisTsunamis giant seismic ocean waves Most are caused by earthquakes on the ocean
floor, but some can be caused by volcanic eruptions and underwater landslides
Nick name is tidal wave, but they are not caused by tides
has a tremendous amount of energy◦ In open ocean water they travel at a rate of around
760Km per hour or 483mph, that similar to the speed of a jet aircraft.
Not dangers in open water, but when they come into shallower the energy is transferred into height = destruction
The arrival of a tsunami may be signaled by the sudden pulling back of the water along the shore
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TsunamiTsunami
tsunamis.com