Oman Trip Report – 15-28th January, 2014. Henry Cook. Trip Participants – Henry Cook, Mike Duckham, Jonathon Groom, Harry Hussey, Sean Minns.

Introduction -

The Sultanate of Oman offers birders the chance of witnessing some great Western Palearctic birding in the winter with an addition of some Oriental species in the north and Afro-tropical species in the south. In all regions of the country we experienced fantastic avian spectacles whether it was hundreds of eagles in the south, many waders in the east or thousands of phalaropes in the north all with pleasant temperatures and conditions for viewing. As a much underwatched part of the world we discovered a good number of country rarities, always exciting. When you include the chance to see a number of tricky Arabian endemics, Middle Eastern specialities and a recently discovered country endemic in the form of Omani Owl, the Sultanate is a destination well worth visiting.

Most of us flew to Muscat from Manchester via Abu Dhabi with Etihad Airways and one of

our group from Heathrow. Flights were priced around £380 at the time of booking (last minute). At the airport we picked up a hire car from Arabia Cars costing £900 for the two week hire of a Toyota Prado 2.7ltr 4WD (this included an excess mileage payment as we travelled well over the authorized distance limit). This car gave plenty of room for five people and equipment, but also large ground clearance and good off-road ability. Despite taking some risky routes through the mountains, on sandy wadis and beaches etc we didn’t get stuck once. Petrol was incredibly cheap at 0.12 riyals/litre (19p/ltr) and allowed us to accumulate over 5000km on the roads without adding much to the overall cost. Major road works in Muscat caused some navigational problems with many junctions being unsigned and new junctions being so unnecessarily over-engineered as to be complex to figure out. Added to this, driving standards were poor. Once out of the Capital, driving conditions improved significantly but unmarked speed-bumps, camels, and drivers not indicating should all be watched out for.

Birding in the country didn’t always pass without notice. A thorough check of our optics by

the airport customs was a hassle but after some lengthy explanation we were allowed on our way. Many police and army checkpoints were encountered along the main highways during our visit, which were all passed through without taking too much time, but as a precaution we hid optics to avoid lengthy questioning. Other than that we just received innocent interest from locals who occasionally appeared even more excited than ourselves to be looking at the birds!

We located simple hotels with ease in the cities, but away from there, accommodations were hit and miss. Camping on several nights gave plenty of time for nocturnal birding in some crucial locations e.g. Al Hajar Mountains, Ash Shuwaymiyah, Wadi Darbat and Ayn Hamran. Finding suitable terrain for camping in the Al Hajar was problematic as the whole area is so stony. Restaurants serving good Indian sub-continent cuisine were frequent in small towns, with a more varied choice in cities, but we kept some stockpiles of food and bottled water from supermarkets for days and nights away from restaurants which was well utilised.

Three of our group had two weeks in the country but a couple had to leave after 11 days,

so we birded the north briefly then had a decent length of stay in the south via the east coast before driving back north-east along the edge of the Rub’ al Khali (Empty Quarter). The last few days were spent in the Al Hajar Mountains and on the Al Batinah coast. Ideally a three week itinerary would allow visiting all sites of interest, revisits of other sites to target tricky species, locate new places of interest or just to make the most of great birding at well-known localities. However, two weeks allowed a great overview of what the country has to offer.

Literature -

Helm Birds of the Middle East 2nd edition (Porter and Aspinall, 2010) – our main point of reference for identification of unfamiliar taxa and species.

Collins Bird Guide 2nd edition (Svensson, Mullarney and Zetterström, 2010) – useful in combination with the above.

Birdwatching guide to Oman 2nd edition (Sargeant, Eriksen and Eriksen, 2008). Site numbers from this book are given in the daily account section of this report to reference major birding sites (e.g. Liwa, 2.4). A very useful book for maps and general birding info.

The birdsoman.com website gives further updates to the site guide for site access and also offers a latest sightings page useful in the run-up to a trip.

A number of recently published trip reports were also of value to us for providing fairly up to date travel and birding advice including Menzie, 2013, and Olsson, 2012, accessed from CloudBirders.com.

Robb, M., Berg, A.v.d. and Constantine, M., 2013. A new species of Strix owl from Oman.

Dutch Birding 35: 275-310, 2013. Accessed from soundapproach.co.uk. Essential for

information surrounding the recent discovery and description of the Omani Owl.

Reise Know-how 1:850,000 scale map for Oman, plus smart-phone satellite navigation apps - combined with maps from the Birdwatching Guide to Oman navigated us around well. No GPS coordinates were used or taken.

Itinerary – 15th – Arrival in morning – Al Ansab Lagoons – Al Qurm – Night hotel in Muscat 16th – Al Ansab Lagoons – Seeb – Al Wasit – Night camping at Wadi Bani Auf 17th – Wadi Bani Auf – Al Ghubrah Bowl – Night hotel in Nizwa 18th – Filim – Wadi Gharm – Khawr Dhurf – Night camping at Wadi Ash Shuwaymiyah 19th – Ash Shuwaymiyah – Jinawt – Khawr Habib – Hadbin – Night hotel in Salalah 20th – Wadi Hanna – Tawi Atayr – Wadi Darbat – Khawr Rawri – Khawr Taqah – Night hotel in Salalah 21st – West Khawr – Salalah Dump + ETW – Al Mughsayl – Salalah NR – Night camping at Ayn Hamran 22nd – Ayn Hamran – Sahnawt Farm – East Khawr – Khawr Rawri – Taqah – Night camping Wadi Darbat 23rd – Wadi Darbat – Khawr Rawri – Ayn Hamran - Wadi Rabkut – Dawkah Farm – Night hotel in Qatbit 24th – Qatbit – Al Ghaftayn – Night hotel in Muscat 25th – Al Qurm – Seeb – Al Hajar Mountains - Night camping Al Hajar Mountains 26th – Al Hajar Mountains – Liwa – Shinas – Khatmat Milahah – Night hotel in Sohar 27th – Sun Farm, Sohar – Night hostel near Awabi 28th – Wadi Bani Auf – Ras as Sawadi – Departure at midnight.

Daily account – 15th January – We stayed local to Muscat on our first day, first proceeding to Al Ansab Lagoons (1.1) in the morning as it was near to the airport and easily accessed off the southern expressway. Our first bird upon arriving was a Persian Wheatear which showed well. We hadn’t arranged access on this first visit so just birded from the perimeter picking up generally widespread birds of the north including 2 Little Green Bee-eater, 1 Red-throated Pipit, 2 Graceful Prinia, 1 White-spectacled Bulbul, 4 Purple Sunbird, 6 Brown-necked Raven and an Indian Silverbill. By peering through the fence 20 Greater Flamingo, 3 Red-necked Phalarope, 8 Red-wattled Lapwing, 1 White-tailed Plover and a Marsh Sandpiper could be seen on the lagoon.

Persian Wheatear – Al Ansab Lagoons Little Green Bee-eater – Al Qurm Natural Park

Al Ansab Lagoons (1.1) Next we headed to Al Qurm Natural Park (1.2), a short journey away and further into the center of Muscat. We went in to the park at the South-east corner close to some standing water, quite near the rear entrance. At the ponds a Western Reef Egret, 1 Purple Heron, 4 Garganey, 14 Red-wattled Lapwing, 2 Pin-tailed Snipe, 20 Common Snipe and 1 Common Kingfisher were present with 4 White-cheeked Bulbul, 2 Red-vented Bulbul, 4 Grey Francolin, 2 Little Green Bee-eater, 1 Bluethroat, 1 Daurian Shrike, 1 Clamorous Reed Warbler and many Common Mynahs in the surrounding bushes. Further west towards the well-kept section of the park a tidal channel provided views of an Indian Pond Heron together with 2 Lesser Sand Plover, 2 Terek Sandpiper, 4 Little Stint, 1 Pacific Golden Plover and a Whimbrel. A Greater Spotted Eagle circled over followed by a Common Buzzard of the steppe race vulpinus. Round at the coast before dusk c20 Greater Crested Terns patrolled the beach with 1 Lesser Crested Tern, 3 Saunders’s Tern close inshore, 1 Oystercatcher, 2 Dunlins, 6 Bar-tailed Godwit, 1 Grey Plover, 2 Kentish Plover, 13 Lesser Sand Plover, 1 Greater Sand Plover and a distant Sooty Gull.

16th January – Having arranged access prior to the trip (through haya.com.om website), we were met at Al Ansab Lagoons (1.1) by a helpful guide from the water company who accompanied us around the site. Once through the gates 2 Greylag Geese of the eastern rubirostris form were seen on the first lagoon, a scarcity in the country. The rear lagoon was well represented with wildfowl species including 2 Ferruginous Duck, 4 Pochard, 4 Wigeon, 1 Gadwall, 40 Tufted Duck, 20 Mallard, 120 Shoveler, 30 Common Teal and 4 Garganey. Also pottering around the reedmace edges was a Purple Swamphen which had been wintering and represents only the 5th for Oman. A Streaked Weaver in the reedbed was a likely escape but may naturalise over time. Also about were 30 Little Grebe, 4 Black-necked Grebe, 1 Jack Snipe, 2 Marsh Sandpiper, 4 Little Egret, 2 Cattle Egret, 6 Grey Francolin, 10 Pallid Swift, 2 Pale Crag Martin, 3 Citrine Wagtail, 2 Barn Swallow, 30 Purple Sunbird, 4 White-spectacled Bulbul, 8 Indian Silverbill, and a Bluethroat.

Purple Swamphen – Al Ansab Lagoons Purple Sunbird – Al Ansab Lagoons Leaving Muscat, we went to the coast at Seeb to scan through some gulls and terns. A gathering on the beach consisted of 160 Sooty Gull, 40 Slender-billed and 50 Steppe Gulls, a few Heuglin’s Gulls, plus a few good candidates for Caspian Gull seen. Terns were represented by 3 Whiskered Tern, 1 Little Tern, 10 Lesser Crested Tern, 30 Greater Crested Tern. Offshore over 2000 Red-necked Phalaropes were in a long raft out towards the horizon. 2 Socotra Cormorants flew by also. 4 Crested Lark, 3 Graceful Prinia, 6 Laughing Doves and House Sparrows of varying shades were also noted, these species being widespread and common. Before reaching the Al Hajar Mountains we stopped off at a date plantation and adjacent acacia habitat near Al Wasit, which looked like it may hold a few interesting wintering birds. It was rather quiet however with 2 Chiffchaff (tristis), 1 Bluethroat, 1 Indian Roller, 1 Ring-necked Parakeet, 4 Grey Francolin, 4 Tawny Pipit, 1 Kestrel, 2 White-spectacled Bulbul and 14 Indian Silverbills. A Lime Swallowtail butterfly was also present.

Birding in the Al Ghubrah Bowl (4.1)

Indian Silverbills – Al Wasit Hume’s Wheatear – Wadi Bani Auf Our first immersion into the Al Hajar Mountains (4.0) was at Wadi Bani Auf, just to the west of Awabi were we planned to camp. The delightful Hume’s Wheatear was plentiful along the valley with 4 seen before dark. Also here was a distant Lappet-faced Vulture, 1 Green Sandpiper, 1 Grey Wagtail, 2 Lesser Whitethroat (halimodendri) and 4 Pale Crag Martin. Owling that night was fruitless as a cold wind picked up through the valley. 17th January – Our main destination for the day was the Al Ghubrah Bowl (4.1). Birds came steadily but the quality was high. Taking the stony track through Wadi Sabt at the entrance to the bowl gave us one of our main targets; a Plain Leaf Warbler. Also here were 2 semirufus Black Redstart, 4 Hume’s Wheatear, 1 Streaked Scrub Warbler, 1 Eastern Orphean Warbler, 6 Chiffchaff, 2 Lesser Whitethroat, 1 Brown-necked Raven, 1 Striolated Bunting and a Bonelli’s Eagle at close range. Taking the road for about 10 km into the bowl we then birded the graded track east off to Wijmah. The boulder, mature scrub and acacia habitat turned up a Lappet-faced Vulture, 2 Desert Lark (of the grey race taimuri), 7 Persian Wheatear, 1 Southern Grey Shrike (aucheri), 5 Arabian Babbler, 2 Indian Silverbill and a possible blythi Lesser Whitethroat. Further into the bowl at Wadi Mistall we walked the riverbed, coming across another Plain Leaf Warbler, 1 Eastern Orphean Warbler, 2 Ménétries’s Warbler, and 2 poorly seen Arabian Partridge. An ascent up to Wakan village perched on the hillside at the far south end of the bowl was scenically spectacular, had friendly locals but birds were limited to several Black Redstarts and Purple Sunbirds. We missed the rare and elusive Woodpigeon here! Leaving the bowl, 2 Egyptian Vultures showed distantly over the tallest mountains and a Barbary Falcon flew by.

Black Redstart – Al Ghubrah Bowl Plain Leaf Warbler – Al Ghubrah Bowl

Sunrise over the desert.

Setting off in the late afternoon we planned to head south. The map for the area (4.0) showed a route south through the mountains along Wadi Bani Auf to Al Hamra and we decided to take it. After 3 hours crawling up steep dusty slopes in the dark, driving around veering bends with precipitous drops off to the side and over many blind crests, we’d reached only half way along the route to Al Hamra. In hindsight we should have gone back towards Muscat before taking Highway 15 south. A Little Owl of a dark form was little compensation for taking this mammoth route, only just about possible in a 4wd. The route down was paved at least but after the adrenaline-fuelled experience of the previous few hours we decided to call it a night at Nizwa. 18th January – Re-energized, an early start had us heading towards Barr al Hikman (8.1) through the desert. A stop c50km due west of Al Awad, on the Siwan road, at a well vegetated wadi produced an Asian Desert Warbler, 2 Desert Wheatear, and 2 Black-crowned Finch-lark. Reaching the fishing town of Filim at high tide we setup scopes and scanned, picking up 20 fairly close and beautiful Crab Plovers. Conservative counts of waders from this one location were of 30 Broad-billed Sandpiper, 200 Terek Sandpiper, 100 Greater Sand Plover, 20 Lesser Sand Plover, 22 Kentish Plover, 50 Redshank, 200 Oystercatcher, 20 Turnstone, 100 Little Stint, 200 Bar-tailed Godwit, 2 Marsh Sandpiper, 3 Common Sandpiper, 20 Curlew and 3 Whimbrel. A distant flock of 60 Calidris may have been Great Knot but were too far away given a strong heat-haze to be sure. Many 1000’s of more distant waders were apparent but would have needed a day or two to track them all down. Amongst the close waders were 100 Greater Flamingos, 8 Spoonbill, 11 Caspian Tern, 1 Saunders’s Tern, 44 Lesser Crested Terns, 1 Long-legged Buzzard, 2 Osprey, 3 Marsh Harrier, 3 Great White Egret, 7 Western Reef Egret, 20 Grey Heron, 50 Heuglin’s Gull and 30 Sooty Gull. The shore-side mangroves held Clamorous Reed Warblers, and 2 Common Kingfisher. There was not enough time to consider a boat ride out to Mahawt Island for its resident Oriental White-eyes or White-collared Kingfishers on this trip.

Crab Plover – Barr al Hikman Greater Sand Plover – Barr al Hickman

A long drive later and we stopped at Wadi Gharm near Khawr Dhurf (9.2). It was nearing sunset and our hopes of seeing Spotted Thick-knee at this time of day were high, but there were no sightings. A Steppe Grey Shrike here was our only one of trip, with 1 Black Redstart, 2 Desert Wheatear, 2 Persian Wheatear, 1 Arabian Babbler, 1 Lesser Whitethroat and 3 Marsh Harriers also recorded. Down at Khawr Dhurf at dusk there was no sight of the lagoon in the spot it ought to have been according to the map, so perhaps it had dried up or had its coastal shingle ridge breached. Our first Great Black-headed Gulls were on the beach with 11 in total, mainly first winters, amongst 500 Sooty Gull and over 200 Heuglin’s Gull. A tightly packed raft of around 300 Socotra Cormorant was close to shore and gave good views. Also here were a Pacific Golden Plover, 1 Kentish Plover, 1 Greater Crested Tern, 4 Lesser Crested Tern and an Osprey.

Wadi Ash Shuwaymiyah (9.4)

We reached Ash Shuwaymiyah (9.4) after dark on a clear, moonlight night and camped at the far end of the wadi (of impressive canyon proportions) by some date palms and pools. The track to the far end of the wadi has been recently graded and access was easy. Although tired we couldn’t resist having a search for Hume’s Owl along the valley. Arabian Fox was first up in the spotlight. After a short while we got lucky and a Hume’s Owl started calling before showing distantly across the valley, of note giving a pale blue eye-shine off the torch light. A pair called on and off all night. 19th January – Another look for Hume’s Owl in the wadi pre-dawn was successful with better views of likely the same bird as the previous evening. As the light grew South Arabian Wheatears were in evidence, singing from the rocky slopes with a total of 8 seen during the morning, mostly males. A White-breasted Waterhen found by the standing water was our only one of the trip. Also seen were 13 Arabian Partridge, 60 Tristram’s Starling, 1 Blue Rock Thrush, 2 Shining Sunbird and 2 African Rock Bunting. A House Martin was circling over one of the pools causing some head-scratching as it showed some features for Asian House Martin, but not conclusively. Previously encountered species also present here were 1 Green Sandpiper, 4 Rock Dove, 4 Pale Crag Martin, 2 Desert Lark, 1 Crested Lark, 3 White Wagtail, 1 Tawny Pipit, 2 Desert Wheatear, 1 Black Redstart, 4 Ménétries’s Warbler, 4 Clamorous Reed Warbler, 1 Chiffchaff and 10 White-spectacled Bulbul. At the hanging gardens area, the halfway point along the wadi, the vegetation was being slashed and burnt by farmers so the amount of disturbance and rapidly diminishing habitat didn’t encourage us to stay long here.

Tristram’s Starling – Ash Shuwaymiyah South Arabian Wheatear – Ash Shuwaymiyah

Following the new paved road from Ash Shuwaymiyah into the Dhofar Mountains, we made a couple of stops as the rocky terrain here looked promising for a few different species. 2 Sand Partridge were flushed but not seen by all. 8 Masked Booby were offshore and stopping along the new road high above Jinawt a large raft of around 1000 Socotra Cormorant was visible. Also here great views of Indo-pacific Humpback Dolphins were had as they arched slowly through the clear waters. The road through the mountains now connects Ash Shuwaymiyah with Hasik and the Dhofar region without having to detour significantly inland. We took the opportunity to stop off a series of khawrs and headlands which hadn’t been accessible previously. In the mountains a Barbary Falcon, 2 Steppe Eagles and an Eastern Imperial Eagle were all spotted whilst driving along. A large Khawr half-way between Jinawt and Hasik looked promising but we couldn’t get too near due to roadworks. A Striolated Bunting, 15 Rock Dove, 1 Laughing Dove, 50 Tristram’s Starling and 2 White-spectacled Bulbul were recorded here. On to a small Khawr on the north side of Hasik we saw our first Blackstart plus 1 Moorhen, 2 Tristram’s Starling, 1 Shining Sunbird, 1 Clamorous Reed Warbler and a Daurian Shrike. We stopped at another Khawr to the south of Hasik which gave close views of a family party of Bonelli’s Eagles, 1 Greenshank, 1 Green Sandpiper, 4 Grey Heron, 2 Western Reef Egret, 40 Sooty Gull and 3 Masked Booby.

Coastline near Hasik

The mountains throughout the area looked good for Hooded Wheatear and eventually a female appeared at the headland to the NE of Hadbin. Also offshore here were more Masked Boobies, Green Turtles bobbing about and a family pod of Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins showed well just meters from away, in the surf.

Hooded Wheatear – NE of Hadbin (Sean Minns) African Sacred Ibis - Hadbin

Late in the afternoon we reached Hadbin town. Looking at the small Khawr behind the beach, an African Sacred Ibis was feeding, the 6th or 7th record for Oman if accepted. There was plenty of activity with 3 Greater Flamingo, 1 Osprey, 2 Kestrel, 5 Little Stint, 3 Temminck’s Stint, 4 Slender-billed Gull, 40 Sooty Gull, 4 Red-throated Pipit, 2 Yellow Wagtail (including 1 lutea), 30 White Wagtail, 1 Isabelline Wheatear, 1 House Crow and 2 Blackstart. After a productive day in the field we headed into Salalah for the night with a large Egyptian Fruit Bat flying over on the way. 20th January – Our first full day in the Dhofar region commenced up at Wadi Hanna (10.10), east of Taqah. The wooded hillsides gave a distinct African feel to the area as they were interspersed with swollen-trunked Baobab trees and held many of the special species of the area. A Steppe Eagle and Eastern Imperial Eagle drifted over with 6 Fan-tailed Raven. In the vegetation were 2 Arabian Partridge, 1 Grey Wagtail, 2 Blackstart, 2 Arabian Warbler, 20 Abyssinian White-eye, 7 African Paradise Flycatcher, 2 Red-breasted Flycatcher, 1 Shining Sunbird, 12 African Rock Bunting and 1 Rüppell’s Weaver. 7 surprisingly well hidden Bruce’s Green Pigeon appeared in the fig trees after hearing their strange calls. Many of these species were widespread at similar sites in the region but a Wood Warbler and Semi-collared Flycatcher were rare winterers in the country.

Bruce’s Green Pigeon – Wadi Hanna African Paradise Flycatcher – Wadi Hanna

Nearby was the Tawi Atayr Sinkhole (10.9), higher up on the Dhofar escarpment. Our target here was the drab but rare Yemen Serin, at its only easily accessible site in the world. It took a while but along the path to the sinkhole a pair showed up amongst the hordes of Rüppell’s Weavers. Palestine Sunbirds showed up for the first time here with 3 nectaring on the shrubs.

Wadi Darbat (10.8)

A Greater Spotted Eagle of the striking fulvescens morph glided over, shortly after followed by a Bonelli’s Eagle and a Steppe Eagle. 2 Rock Dove, 11 Tristram’s Starling, 2 Blackstart, 80 Fan-tailed Raven, 4 Shining Sunbird, 1 African Paradise Flycatcher, 20 African Rock Bunting were also present. Along the short route between Tawi Atayr and Wadi Darbat we stopped off to search for Singing Bush-lark which has been recorded here in previous winters despite being mainly a summer visitor to the country. Several km along the road we walked a random grass field and fairly quickly a Singing Bush-lark was located allowing close approach, with another in the same field. Unexpected but great to see was an Arabian Chameleon clambering through bushes. A short walk along the upper lagoon of Wadi Darbat (10.8) in the afternoon was fairly quiet, but another Semi-collared Flycatcher was here with 3 Red-breasted Flycatcher, 3 Tree Pipit, 1 Hoopoe, 1 Citrine Wagtail, 2 Whiskered Tern, 4 Greenshank, 1 Green Sandpiper, 2 Pintail, 1 Teal, 1 Cattle Egret, 1 Great White Egret, 4 Abyssinian White-eye, 10 African Rock Bunting and 24 Rüppell’s Weaver.

Singing Bush-lark – near Tawi Atayr Yemen Serin – Tawi Atayr (Sean Minns) Khawr Rawri (10.7) to the east of Taqah was our next port of call, visiting the upper half of the lagoon on this visit. An Intermediate Egret and Black Stork were present (the latter rare in Oman) amongst Western Reef Egrets, 2 Purple Heron, 2 Grey Heron, 6 Spoonbill, 1 Glossy Ibis, 15 Greater Flamingo and a Squacco Heron. A Pin-tailed Snipe was seen in flight at the far northern end amongst Common Snipe and a shy Baillon’s Crake showed to one of the group. Also recorded were a Wood Sandpiper, 4 Black-winged Stilt, 27 Tufted Duck, 1 Steppe Eagle, 1 Osprey, 2 Whiskered Tern, 1 Citrine Wagtail, 2 Bluethroat, 1 Daurian Shrike and 3 Rüppell’s Weaver. Clearly some of the raptors had taken to feeding on the local egrets and herons as there were several piles of feathers surrounding the water. As the day came to a close we proceeded to Khawr Taqah (10.6) where there was some excellent birding from the track running round the southern side. On the way in, the adjacent agricultural area held a Long-legged Buzzard, 30 Yellow Wagtail, 3 African Silverbill, 2 Rüppell’s Weaver and many exotics: Common Mynah, Ring-necked Parakeet, House Crow and a Scaly-breasted Munia. Once at the Khawr a flurry of migrants moving through consisted of 5 Black Kite, 14 White Stork, 6 Barn Swallow, 2 House Martin, 1 Sand Martin. Other birds present around the khawr were 5 Purple Heron, 100 Grey Heron, 12 Glossy Ibis, 2 Cattle Egret, 2 White-tailed Lapwing, 1 Green Sandpiper, 1 Wood Sandpiper, 3 Temminck’s Stint, 2 Kentish Plover, 4 Citrine Wagtail, 1 Siberian Stonechat, 40 African Silverbill, 2 Scaly-breasted Munia and many thousands of gulls. Raptors were coming into roost over the reedbeds with 9 Marsh Harrier, 1 Montagu’s Harrier and a Pallid Harrier. As darkness descended mosquitoes became a nuisance but persistence paid off when a Black-crowned Night-heron flew out of the reeds, 6 Small Pratincole started feeding on flying insects around us and an Egyptian Nightjar rested on the sandy area to the south of the khawr giving prolonged views in the raised beam of the car, an excellent finale to the day.

Sunset behind Khawr Taqah (10.6)

Small Pratincole – Khawr Taqah Egyptian Nightjar – Khawr Taqah 21st January – At first light we headed over to West Khawr (10.14), which was accessed by driving onto the beach track from the Hilton Hotel and driving one km NE (4wd only). The first small lagoon surrounded by mangroves was quiet but the larger West Khawr was busier with a Pheasant-tailed Jacana, 3 Red-knobbed Coot, 4 Coot, 1 Squacco Heron, 1 Little Egret, 3 Greater Spotted Eagle, 2 Marsh Harrier, 1 Osprey, 1 Ruff, 1 Ringed Plover, 20 Greenshank, 4 Black-tailed Godwit, 7 Whiskered Tern and 2 Daurian Shrike. About 7km to the south-west near Raysut is the main waste tip for Salalah with an adjacent sewage works, a must for any birder! An impressive sight met us on arrival with hundreds of Steppe Eagles soaring over the tip above many gulls, crows, doves and storks. In total, c300 Steppe Eagles were present with 4 Eastern Imperial Eagle and 2 Greater Spotted Eagle in amongst them. About 700 White Storks had gathered in one corner of the compound and over at the sewage works 380 Abdim’s Storks flew in off the tip to rest. Amongst all these birds were a few other species including 5 Greater Flamingo, 6 Teal, 1 Montagu’s Harrier, 1 Marsh Sandpiper, 2 Redshank, 18 Black-winged Stilt, 6 Tristram’s Starling, 4 Fan-tailed Raven, 40 Barn Swallow, 10 Pale Crag Martin, 1 Sand Martin, 2 Yellow Wagtail, 1 Citrine Wagtail, 1 Singing Bush-lark, 1 Chiffchaff, 4 African Silverbill, 3 Rüppell’s Weaver. Just before we left a flock of over 100 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse arrived to drink from the pools at the sewage works then departed just as quickly as they arrived.

Greater Spotted Eagle – Salalah Tip Abdim’s Stork – Salalah Sewage Works It was still morning so we pressed on to Al Mughsayl (10.15) 30km further west along the coast. Here, the coastal pools turned up some interesting species. First up was a Watercock (if accepted, only the 5th record for Oman), 1 Intermediate Egret, 1 Indian Pond Heron, 2 Squacco Heron, 1 Glossy Ibis, 1 Spoonbill, 1 Little Egret, 1 Great White Egret, 1 Black Stork (a first winter and different bird to that at Khawr Rawri), 1 Pin-tailed Snipe, 1 Ruff, 1 Terek Sandpiper, 1 Wood Sandpiper, 4 Common Sandpiper, 1 Curlew (ssp orientalis) and a Long-billed Pipit.

The coast at Al Mughsayl (10.14)

The reed-lined khawr inland of the road, viewed from the hide, was rather quiet apart from our only Cotton Teal, with 8 birds present. Driving along the track which leads up to Wadi Hashir, several kilometers north of the coast, gave us 2 Ferruginous Duck, 3 Garganey (both species on another small pool along the valley), 2 Eastern Imperial Eagle, 2 Steppe Eagle, 1 South Arabian Wheatear, 2 Isabelline Wheatear, 1 Blue Rock Thrush and 2 Abyssinian White-eye in a small patch of palms. Despite spending time scanning the surrounding mountains we couldn’t locate any Verreaux’s Eagles which this site is reported to be good for, more time would have been needed. Back at the coast we had a seawatch from the pleasant shelter of the café near the blowholes site, which turned up a single Brown Booby. Also passing by were a Saunders’s Tern, 3 Sandwich Tern, 2 Caspian Tern, 150 Greater Crested Tern, 4 Lesser Crested Tern, 115 Red-necked Phalarope, 2 Black-headed Gull, 100 Slender-billed Gull, 200 Sooty Gull, 20 Heuglin’s Gull and 2 Socotra Cormorant. A couple of Spinner Dolphins added further interest.

Watercock – Al Mughsayl Intermediate Egret – Al Mughsayl A brief check of Salalah Nature Reserve (10.12) on the way back into the city turned up a Gull-billed Tern amongst Whiskered Terns, 1 Little Tern, 60 Glossy Ibis, 80 Pacific Golden Plover, and a coromandus ‘Eastern’ Cattle Egret. Near dusk we drove to Ayn Hamran (10.4) to camp for the night, once there hearing at least 8 Arabian Scops Owl (the pamalae race) and seeing one briefly in flight. Arabian Wolves howling from somewhere up the hillside created quite an atmosphere. 22nd January – Arabian Scops Owl were calling again before dawn at Ayn Hamran but not as enthusiastically and none were seen. The undoubted highlight from the morning was the presence of 4 Arabian Golden-winged Grosbeaks which eventually showed well feeding on fruiting trees. Further sightings in the scrub and trees beyond the roundabout were of a Booted Eagle, 1 Bonelli’s Eagle, 1 Sparrowhawk, 2 Arabian Partridge, 1 Common Sandpiper, 2 Bruce’s Green Pigeon, 30 Rock Dove, 1 Wryneck, 1 Tree Pipit, 1 Arabian Warbler, 1 Chiffchaff, 12 Abyssinian White-eye, 4 African Paradise Flycatcher, 2 Black-crowned Tchagra, 6 Fan-tailed Raven, 20 Tristram’s Starling, 2 African Silverbill, 16 African Rock Bunting and 2 Rüppell’s Weaver.

Arabian Golden-winged Grosbeak – Ayn Hamran. Black-crowned Tchagra – Ayn Hamran

Ayn Hamran (10.4)

Entering Salalah we stopped at Sahnawt Farm (10.1). Full access to the farm wasn’t allowed on bio-security grounds but we were given permission to scan from just inside the entrance gate by a member of staff, and thereafter birded from the outside along the perimeter fence at a number of places. A flock of Bimaculated Larks were seen with about 20 distantly along the main track to the farm buildings, Also here were a fulvescens Greater Spotted Eagle, 1 Eastern Imperial Eagle, 2 Steppe Eagle, 1 Booted Eagle, 1 Montagu’s Harrier, 1 Marsh Harrier, 40 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, at least 2000 Collared Doves, 30 Pacific Golden Plover, 300 Ruff, 1 White-tailed Plover, 1 Curlew, 20 White-winged Black Tern, 4 Whiskered Tern, 6 Tawny Pipit, 4 Barn Swallow, 4 Yellow Wagtail, 2 Isabelline Wheatear, 1 Palestine Sunbird, 1 Southern Grey Shrike and 1 Rüppell’s Weaver, but we left feeling that much more had gone unseen due to the viewing restrictions in place. Nearby is East Khawr (10.2) which we spent a short time at in the heat of the day, walking from along the new raised walkway on the west side hoping to see a bittern. We weren’t lucky on that front but we saw another Pheasant-tailed Jacana, 2 Great Black-headed Gull and a Lesser Black-backed Gull (fuscus) amongst small numbers of waders and gulls, with most activity at the seaward end.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana – East Khawr Shining Sunbird – Khawr Taqah Afterwards we returned to Khawr Rawri (10.7), this time checking out the seaward end of the lagoon. A Pheasant-tailed Jacana was present amongst the same species to our previous with the Intermediate Egret still present. A seawatch from the southern end produced a White-cheeked Tern, 1 Masked Booby, 20 Greater Crested Tern, 1 Little/Saunders’s Tern and 300 Sooty Gull flew by. A Short-toed Eagle flew over as we departed. Another visit to Khawr Taqah (10.6) and the adjacent agricultural area at dusk was quiet bar 2 Scaly-breasted Munia, 14 African Silverbill, 80 Rüppell’s Weaver and a brief Honey-buzzard species. With dusk arriving, Wadi Darbat (10.8) was to be our campsite for the night and destination for some owling. The highlight was a Spotted Eagle-owl which showed well on the sandy ground, seen from the vehicle whilst driving along the south east corner of the main lagoon. Later another Eagle-owl was hooting from the cliff-face on the western side of the main lagoon about half-way along. Fewer Arabian Scops Owls were calling here compared to Ayn Hamran and none seen. A Common Genet was spotlighted on the eastern side of the lagoon.

Khawr Rawri (10.7)

Spotted Eagle-owl – Wadi Darbat Long-billed Pipit – Ayn Hamran

23rd January – This was our last morning in the Dhofar region and we spent a little time at Wadi Darbat birding the main lagoon area, seeing a Spotted Eagle-owl pre-dawn in flight, 3 Arabian Scops Owl (again heard only), 1 Bonelli’s Eagle and another Red-breasted Flycatcher. Back at Khawr Rawri (10.7) we searched for crakes as it was still early morning. 2 Purple Heron, 1 Grey Heron, 1 Eastern Imperial Eagle, 1 Osprey, 1 Citrine Wagtail, 3 Bluethroat, 2 Clamorous Reed Warbler, 2 Graceful Prinia, 1 Daurian Shrike, 4 Tristram’s Starling were present but no more sightings of crakes were had. Back at Ayn Hamran (10.4) we hoped in vein to see Verreaux’s Eagle, but we were treated to views of many of the Dhofar specialities as on our last visit with the addition of a showy Long-billed Pipit near the roundabout and a distant Short-toed Eagle. Before leaving Salalah, a short drive around Jarziz Farm (10.1) was eye-opening with thousands of doves, and large numbers of sparrows, mynas, wagtails and waders to search through around the cow sheds, but just a single Little Ringed Pover and Isabelline Wheatear were of note amongst them all. The farm appears to be closing down and the fields were overgrown. On the drive north we stopped off at Wadi Rabkut (7.7), just North-east of Thumrayt, to break up the journey. A breeze kept the heat off what would have been a very hot destination and there was some activity from 2 African Collared Doves a couple of km north of the road favouring the scattered acacias. They were located primarily by their distinctive song and call. One of the pair was seen well and looked pure, showing a pale belly and vent, a dark tail and a distinctive black-bordered white underwing in flight, amongst other features. 4 Eurasian Collared Dove, 4 Hoopoe Lark, 1 Desert Lark, 3 Black-crowned Finch-lark, 2 Desert Wheatear, 2 Asian Desert Warbler, 1 Arabian Warbler, 1 Southern Grey Shrike and 1 White-spectacled Bulbul were recorded, largely in and around tamarisks and acacias by the low cliff on the east side of the wadi about one km from the road.

Desert Wheatear – Thumrayt Asian Desert Warbler – Wadi Rabkut

Grey Hypocolius habitat at Qatbit (7.4), complete with petrol station

Continuing northwards, we arrived at Dawkah in the last hour of daylight. A check of the oasis turned out to be completely dry and only held an Isabelline Wheatear. However, the nearby farm has received good reviews in the last year now operations have resumed. To get to the farm turn off the main road at the radio mast then travel west for 6.5km to a junction, take a right here and travel for another 5km to the farm entrance, paved all the way. After gaining entry we drove along the track to a stand of date palms, behind which were a couple of large irrigated fields that we were drawn towards for their large congregations of birds. A Taiga Flycatcher was ‘trilling’ from a tree near the date palms that also contained a Daurian Shrike being mobbed by a Yellow-browed Warbler and around 20 Chiffchaffs. The flycatcher showed at a distance whilst calling and if accepted will represent the 5th for Oman. The fields were crawling with birds; 1 Marsh Harrier, 400 Collared Dove, 5 Laughing Dove, 4 Crested Lark, 1 Isabelline Wheatear, 20 Desert Wheatear, 5 Yellow Wagtail (including 3 male feldegg), 2 Citrine Wagtail, 250 White Wagtail and 3 Brown-necked Raven being present. It was great birding and we only checked a small fraction of the farm. After dark we drove to Qatbit for the night, staying at the Qatbit Motel. 24th January – Anticipation was high for some special species in and around the Qatbit (7.4) compound and the area didn’t disappoint. The scene that first greeted a couple of us was a bush with two thrushes on top; one was a male Black-throated and the other, a Dusky Thrush! The former is a scarce wintering bird in the country and the latter a rarity with only 3 previous records. Nile Valley Sunbirds were calling all around including several stunning breeding-plumaged males that were seen during the morning. 4 Grey Hypocolius (1 male, 3 females) were up next being seen in and around date palms near the petrol station before moving over to the pool adjacent to the motel to drink. This Middle Eastern speciality appears to be wintering here with regularity now.

Grey Hypocolius - Qatbit Nile Valley Sunbird - Qatbit Activity was high and in amongst the usual sparrows, doves, many Chiffchaffs, and some Lesser Whitethroats were 1 Hoopoe, 2 Song Thrush, 1 Bluethroat, 3 Black Redstart, 10 Desert Wheatear, 1 Citrine Wagtail, 4 White Wagtail, 1 Tree Pipit, 1 Yellow-browed Warbler, 1 Hume’s Warbler (9th or 10th for Oman), 2 Desert Whitethroat, 4 Red-breasted Flycatcher, 1 Brown-necked Raven, 2 Common Mynah (first site record) and a Yellow-throated Sparrow. An Oriental Turtle Dove of the race meena was seen in the compound and also later at the oasis 2km to the east. Most of the water from the oasis was being used to fill up water lorries for taking elsewhere but a few standing puddles attracted in 80 Spotted Sandgrouse. Also in the area of the oasis were 3 Hoopoe Lark, 1 Persian Wheatear (our most southerly of the trip) and an Asian Desert Warbler. A couple of stops along the highway north-east from Qatbit to look for additional lark species drew a blank. We departed just after noon and followed Highway 31 along the periphery of the enormous Empty Quarter. A stop at Al Ghaftayn (7.2) was quiet with a Red-throated Pipit, 1 White Wagtail, 1 Black Redstart and 2 Chiffchaff amongst the sparrows and doves. The compound is being irrigated again but it will take some time for the habitat to improve for migrants and wintering passerines. Two of our group were leaving the following morning so we stayed in Muscat for the night.

Mangroves at Liwa (2.4)

25th January – Revisiting Al Qurm Natural Park (1.2) in the morning, the rear entrance was open, and here we saw a Siberian Stonechat in addition to species present on the last visit. The Indian Rollers were around in good numbers with a preference for perching on tall floodlights. 4 Little Ringed Plovers joined Temminck’s and Little Stints on the mud. Round at the coast 2 Socotra Cormorants flew by and a distant raft of over 1000 Red-necked Phalaropes could be seen, appearing as many white specks forming a long line on the sea near the horizon. For two of the group their trip was at an end and we dropped them off at the airport. Up the coast at Seeb 600 Great Cormorants were close to shore, and out towards the horizon Red-necked Phalaropes were again stretching for miles, easily 3000 birds present. The fish quay was full of gulls and gave good opportunities for scrutinising the myriad of variation within the flock. Steppe and Sooty Gulls dominated with hundreds of each plus a few Caspian Gulls. Our first Striated Heron was fishing with Western Reef Egrets by the shore. With a few days left we had one big target remaining to search for in the central Al Hajar Mountains; the recently discovered Omani Owl. It is the first non-cryptic species to have been discovered in the region in many decades. With no exact site information it was our intention to search several mountain valleys over the next few nights if needed. Reaching the mountains in the afternoon, activity was subdued but 2 Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse were seen by one of the group, also seen were a Sparrowhawk, 1 Bonelli’s Eagle, 1 Persian Wheatear, 1 Hume’s Wheatear, 1 Plain Leaf Warbler, 2 Ménétries’s Warbler, 8 Lesser Whitethroat, 1 Graceful Prinia, 2 Purple Sunbird and a Striolated Bunting. After dark we were quickly listening to Pallid Scops Owls, audible in acacias but refusing to show. A Little Owl was seen shortly after. Then we heard the Omani Owl; a low ‘hoot’ from a kilometer away. Nearer the source, after a tense wait it started vocalising, very close this time, from a cliff-face above us; a pulsed hooting at regular intervals. Eventually it was located in the scope, an Omani Owl! It went on to show for a few minutes, leaving us elated and some of the first people in the world to see this ‘new’ species.

Omani Owl – Al Hajar Mountains Bonelli’s Eagle – Al Hajar Mountains 26th January – Although lacking sleep after the late night, we were up early (probably still fuelled by adrenaline!) and a little birding in the area again added 2 Long-billed Pipits to our sightings from yesterday. 3 Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse were also seen along with 2 more Plain Leaf Warblers. Afterwards we left for Liwa, on the Al Batinah coast a few hours away. Shortly after arriving at Liwa (2.4), looking towards the mangroves from the beach we saw a female Collared Kingfisher perched up (of the threatened kalbaensis race). It sat there for a couple of minutes before flying off down a channel through the mangroves. Low tide appears to be useful for seeing this species as it brings it out to the deeper channel on the eastern side of the mangroves. Several Common Kingfishers were also present.

Stony plain at Khatmat Milahah (2.6) Offshore 6 Arctic Skua were harassing the 60 Common Tern, 60 Lesser Crested Tern and 30 Greater Crested Tern. We scrutinised the Common Terns finding a single White-cheeked Tern in their midst. On the beach were 6 Great Black-headed Gulls. A Common Gull here was our only one of the trip and resembled the heinei race. Continuing north a little way we reached Shinas (2.5). It was quiet here with none of the hoped for Sykes’s Warbler in the mature mangroves. Several more Common Kingfishers, 6 Graceful Prinias and a few Clamorous Reed Warblers were seen with 4 White-eared Bulbuls in the car park. A check of the beach turned up 49 Great Black-headed Gulls including many smart adults with complete black hoods. Oystercatchers showed well here of the central Asian longipes race with large white neck-collars and broad white wing-bars. 6 Arctic Skuas were offshore plus another 2000 Red-necked Phalaropes. The waves lapping at the shore had turned green so presumably the huge numbers of Phalarope were taking advantage of a large algal bloom in the area.

Collared Kingfisher – Liwa Variable Wheatear – Khatmat Milahah Right up by the UAE border we called in at Khatmat Milahah (2.6) for our last stop of the day, a stony plain with scattered acacias and scrub at the foot of the mountains. The target species here was Variable Wheatear (Eastern Pied Wheatear) of the nominate form picata. With daylight fading we located a female which showed well in a dead acacia. In a short time we also saw 2 Grey Francolin, 2 Red-wattled Lapwing, 2 Collared Dove, 2 Ring-necked Parakeet, 1 Asian Desert Warbler, 4 Lesser Whitethroat, 3 Southern Grey Shrike and the ubiquitous Common Mynah. The nearest hotel accommodation from here was in Sohar which left us well placed for the following morning. 27th January – Unsure as to whether Sun Farm (2.2) on the outskirts of Sohar was still operational we turned up at the entrance and spoke to the reception. It transpires the farm is closing but they said we could go in as we were there. Only 3 out of the former 9 pivot fields were still being used and irrigated which limited habitat available to larks, pipits and plovers somewhat, with the rest of the farm being fallow and becoming scrub, but overall the experience of birding at the farm was still exceptional and we spent the whole day here. The cow sheds had many thousands of doves, pigeons and mynahs, plus smaller numbers of waders, wagtails, crows and sparrows; plague proportions to most people, heaven to birders! The cattle sheds also held 12 Cattle Egret, 4 Glossy Ibis, 11 Grey Francolin, 12 Little Stint, 5 Temminck’s Stint, 1 Dunlin, 3 Ringed Plover, 6 Little Ringed Plover, 80 Ruff, 22 Common Snipe, 5 White-tailed Plover, 30 Red-wattled Lapwing, 6 Wood Sandpiper, 2 Yellow Wagtail (1 thunbergi), 2 Citrine Wagtail and a Hoopoe.

Fallow land at Sun Farm, Sohar (2.2)

Ménétries’s Warbler – Sun Farm Grey Francolin – Sun Farm

Behind the sheds, some settling ponds had many of the same species at close range plus 2 Little Egret, 2 Gadwall, 1 Garganey, 20 Black-winged Stilt, 2 White-winged Black Tern and 4 Whiskered Tern. Scrubby areas were worthy of investigation with 1 Common Quail, 8 Namaqua Dove, 105 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, 14 Pallid Swift, 1 Siberian Stonechat, 4 Arabian Babbler, 1 Ménétries’s Warbler, 1 Daurian Shrike and a Southern Grey Shrike. Out on the fields a flock of 40 Indian Silverbills held an eye-catching xanthochromic individual. The irrigated pivot-fields had an Eastern Imperial Eagle, 1 Short-toed Eagle, 1 Bonelli’s Eagle, 5 Marsh Harrier, 1 Pallid Harrier, 40 Red-wattled Lapwing, 3 Pacific Golden Plover, 12 Eurasian Skylark, 3 Richard’s Pipit, 5 Water Pipit (coutelli), 6 Red-throated Pipit and 3 Tawny Pipit. The critically endangered Sociable Plover was eventually found with 11 on a recently cut field, our main target species at this site.

Sociable Lapwing – Sun Farm Namaqua Dove – Sun Farm That night we returned to the central Al Hajar Mountains and tried to add to the known distribution of Omani Owl by searching a different valley. We were unsuccessful but traffic disturbance and a cold breeze blowing at times lowered our chances. A single Pallid Scops Owl called briefly though. We found a newly opened resthouse by the entrance to Wadi Bani Auf to spend the night. 28th January – Our final morning was spent in the same wadi travelling up to about 25km along (only the first 10kms are paved) and birding around an impressive gorge at the far end. The trees around our accommodation held a Blue Rock Thrush, 2 Black Redstart, 5 Chiffchaff (tristis and abietinus), 2 Red-breasted Flycatcher and 4 Purple Sunbird. Birding towards and around the gorge was good with another Lappet-faced Vulture, 3 Egyptian Vulture, 1 Desert Lark, 4 Long-billed Pipit, 5 Hume’s Wheatear, 4 Persian Wheatear, 1 Plain Leaf Warbler, 2 Ménétries’s Warbler, 12 Lesser Whitethroat, 1 Graceful Prinia, 1 Arabian Babbler, 2 Brown-necked Raven and our first decent sized flock of Striolated Bunting with 6 present. By midday we had left the mountains and were heading back to the coast.

Ras As Sawadi (2.1)

Brown-necked Raven – Wadi Bani Auf Great Black-headed Gull – Ras As Sawadi We reached Ras As Sawadi (2.1) by early afternoon. This is a site which is probably better at other times of year when seabirds are passing and Sooty Falcons are in attendance. Still, there were a few things to see here such as an Osprey, 4 Great Black-headed Gulls, 30 Sooty Gull, 100 Steppe Gull, 3 Caspian Tern, 50 Greater Crested Tern, 2 Sandwich Tern, and 30 Pallid Swift which looked to be breeding on the headland already. Our time in the country was coming to a close so we left for the airport to catch our flight out at midnight. Bird species list and details – 230 species, 1 heard only. Little Grebe – common at Al Ansab Lagoons, with at least 30 present.

Black-necked Grebe – small numbers at Al Ansab Lagoons.

Masked Booby – small numbers in the south, between Ash Shuwaymiyah and Khawr Rawri.

Brown Booby – one flew past Al Mughsayl.

Great Cormorant – common in the north, with a large flock at Seeb.

Socotra Cormorant – a few in the north and Al Mughsayl, large rafts off Wadi Dhurf and Jinawt.

Black-crowned Night-heron – one at Khawr Rawri, flew out of the reedbed near dark.

Striated Heron – one at Seeb fish market by the beach.

Squacco Heron – small numbers at wetlands in the north and south.

Indian Pond Heron – one at Al Qurm Natural Park and one at Al Mughsayl.

Cattle Egret – small numbers of the western form throughout, one eastern coromandus at Salalah NR.

Western Reef Egret – small numbers along all coasts.

Little Egret – small numbers in north and south.

Intermediate Egret – one at Khawr Rawri and one at Al Mughsayl.

Great White Egret – small numbers in the north and south.

Grey Heron – common at wetland sites, a maximum of 100 at Khawr Taqah.

Purple Heron – small numbers in the north and south with a maximum of 5 at Khawr Taqah.

Black Stork – one at Khawr Rawri and one at Al Mughsayl, rare in Oman.

Abdim's Stork – 380 at Salalah Sewage Works flew in off the tip.

White Stork – 14 over Khawr Taqah and 700 at Salalah tip.

Glossy Ibis – small numbers at Sun Farm, frequent in the south with a max of 60 at Salalah NR.

African Sacred Ibis – one at Hadbin, if accepted the 6th or 7th record for Oman.

Spoonbill – small numbers at Barr al Hikman, Khawr Rawri and Al Mughsayl.

Greater Flamingo – frequent, with a maximum of 100 at Barr al Hikman.

Greylag Goose – 2 at Al Ansab Lagoons, of the eastern rubirostris race.

Cotton Teal – 8 on the Khawr inland of the main road at Al Mughsayl.

Wigeon – a few in the north and south.

Gadwall – a few in the north and south.

Teal – common at wetlands in the north, a few in the south.

Mallard – 20 at Al Ansab Lagoons.

Pintail – 2 at Al Ansab Lagoons.

Garganey – a few in the north and south.

Shoveler – 120 at Al Ansab Lagoons.

Pochard – 4 at Al Ansab Lagoons.

Ferruginous Duck – 2 at Al Ansab Lagoons and 2 at Al Mughsayl.

Tufted Duck – 40 at Al Ansab Lagoons and 27 at Khawr Rawri.

Black Kite – 5 migrants at Khawr Taqah. No Yellow-billed Kites recorded in the area.

Egyptian Vulture – small numbers encountered in the Al Hajar Mountains.

Lappet-faced Vulture – seen on several occasions in the Al Ghubrah Bowl and Wadi Bani Auf.

Short-toed Eagle – singles at Khawr Rawri, Ayn Hamran and Sun Farm.

Marsh Harrier – frequent throughout with a maximum of 9 at Khawr Taqah.

Pallid Harrier – one at Khawr Taqah and one at Sun Farm.

Montagu's Harrier- singles at Khawr Taqah, Salalah Sewage Works and Sahnawt Farm.

Sparrowhawk – singles at Ayn Hamran and the Al Ghubrah Bowl.

Common Buzzard – one of the steppe race vulpinus over Al Qurm Natural Park.

Long-legged Buzzard - singles at Barr al Hikman and Khawr Taqah.

Greater Spotted Eagle – commonest in the south, with a couple of the striking fulvescens morph there.

Steppe Eagle – About 300 present at Salalah tip, generally small numbers at many other sites in the south.

Eastern Imperial Eagle – small numbers at many sites in the south, also one at Sun Farm in the north.

Booted Eagle – singles at Ayn Hamran and Sahnawt Farm.

Bonelli's Eagle – present at several sites in the south with a max of 3 near Hasik, a couple in the north.

Osprey – ones and twos at many coastal sites in the north and south.

Kestrel – widespread, often encountered along roads.

Barbary Falcon – one in the Al Hajar Mountains and another entering the Dhofar Mountains near Jinawt.

Arabian Partridge – 13 at Wadi Ash Shuwaymiyah, pairs at Al Ghubrah, Wadi Hanna and Ayn Hamran.

Sand Partridge – a pair between Ash Shuwaymiyah and Jinawt were the only ones.

Grey Francolin – frequent in the north with a max of 13 at Sun Farm.

Common Quail – one calling at Sun Farm.

White-breasted Waterhen – one by standing water at Wadi Ash Shuwaymiyah.

Moorhen – widespread in small numbers.

Purple Swamphen – one wintering on the large lagoon at Al Ansab on 16th was the 5th for Oman.

Watercock – one at Al Mughsayl on the coastal lagoons, if accepted the 5th for Oman.

Coot – 4 at West Khawr.

Red-knobbed Coot – 3 at West Khawr.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana – singles at West Khawr, East Khawr and Khawr Rawri.

Eurasian Oystercatcher – 200+ at Barr Al Hikman, small numbers of longipes birds on northern coasts.

Black-winged Stilt – small numbers at many wetland sites with a maximum of 20 at Sun Farm.

Crab Plover – around 20 at Filim, Barr al Hikman.

Small Pratincole – 6 at Khawr Taqah around the sandy area south of the main lagoon at dusk.

Little Ringed Plover – small numbers at farms and wetland sites.

Ringed Plover – recorded at West Khawr and Sun Farm in small numbers.

Kentish Plover – widespread at coastal sites, with a maximum of 22 at Barr al Hikman.

Lesser Sand Plover – generally less common than the next species, a maximum of 20 at Barr al Hikman.

Greater Sand Plover – the commoner of the two sand plovers, a maximum of 100 at Barr al Hikman.

Pacific Golden Plover – frequent at farms, occasional at coastal sites, a maximum of 80 at Salalah NR.

Grey Plover – singles recorded at a few coastal sites in the north including the beach at Al Qurm.

Red-wattled Plover – common in the north, with a maximum of 70 at Sun Farm.

Sociable Plover - 11 at Sun Farm on a recently cut pivot field, a highlight of the trip.

White-tailed Plover – one at Sahnawt Farm, two at Al Ansab Lagoons and 5 at Sun Farm.

Sanderling – 18 at Shinas on the beach.

Little Stint – small numbers at many coastal sites, a maximum of at least 100 at Barr al Hikman.

Temminck's Stint – small numbers in the north and south, a maximum of 5 at Sun Farm.

Dunlin – small numbers at a few sites in the north.

Curlew Sandpiper – one at Barr al Hikman.

Broad-billed Sandpiper – only recorded at Barr al Hikman where there were at least 30 present.

Ruff – common on farms with a maximum of 300 at Sahnawt Farm, and small numbers at khawrs.

Jack Snipe – one at Al Ansab Lagoons.

Common Snipe – common at freshwater sites and khawrs in the north and south.

Pin-tailed Snipe – 2 at Al Qurm Natural Park, and singles at Khawr Rawri and Al Mughsayl.

Black-tailed Godwit – 4 at West Khawr and a few at Salalah NR.

Bar-tailed Godwit – frequent on beaches in the north in small numbers, and 200 at Barr al Hikman.

Whimbrel – singles at Al Ansab and Liwa, plus 3 at Barr al Hikman.

Curlew – singles at coastal sites in the north and south of the orientalis ssp, 20+ at Barr al Hikman.

Redshank – small numbers in the south, and 50+ at Barr al Hikman.

Spotted Redshank – singles at Barr al Hikman and Al Mughsayl.

Marsh Sandpiper – 2 at Al Ansab Lagoons, 2 at Barr al Hikman and a single at Salalah Sewage Works.

Greenshank – small numbers at several sites in the north and south with a max of 20 at West Khawr.

Green Sandpiper – small numbers at freshwater sites, mountain wadis, Sun Farm, Sohar.

Wood Sandpiper – singles at several sites in the south, 6 at Sun Farm, Sohar.

Terek Sandpiper – 2 at Al Qurm, one at Al Mughsayl and 200+ at Barr al Hikman.

Common Sandpiper – common and widespread in the north, and less so in the east and south.

Ruddy Turnstone – 20 at Barr al Hikman, also seen in small numbers at the north coast.

Red-necked Phalarope – very common off the north coast with a max of 3000 off Seeb, less in the south.

Arctic Skua – 6 off Liwa and another 6 off Shinas.

Sooty Gull – very common at all coastal sites visited with a max of 500 at Khawr Dhurf.

Great Black-headed Gull – 11 at Khawr Dhurf, 2 East Khawr, 49 Shinas, 6 Liwa and 4 Ras As Sawadi.

Black-headed Gull – 2 at Al Mughsayl were the only ones in the south, more common off the north coast.

Slender-billed Gull – common at coastal sites in the north, east and south.

Common Gull – one at Liwa on 26th resembled the heinei race, a scarce winter visitor to Oman.

Lesser Black-backed Gull – a single bird of the fuscus subspecies often known as Baltic Gull

Heuglin’s Gull – present in the north, becoming more common in the south.

Steppe Gull – barabensis present on the northern coast but much variation.

Caspian Gull – only small numbers confidently identified to as cachinnans in the north.

Gull-billed Tern – one on the beach at Salalah NR amongst Whiskered Terns was the only one.

Caspian Tern – small numbers at coastal sites in the north, east and south, a max of 11 at Barr al Hikman.

Greater Crested Tern – very common offshore in the north and south.

Lesser Crested Tern – generally less common than the previous species, a max of 44 at Barr al Hikman.

Sandwich Tern – small numbers amongst the large terns at Al Mughsayl, Liwa and Ras as Sawadi.

Common Tern – 60 flew by at Liwa, the only sites we recorded this species.

White-cheeked Tern – singles off Khawr Rawri and Liwa, the latter amongst Common Terns.

Little Tern – singles at Seeb and Salalah NR. Some small terns seen were not assignable to species.

Saunders's Tern – 3 offshore at Al Qurm, one at Barr al Hikman and one at Al Mughsayl.

Whiskered Tern – small numbers at plenty of sites in the north and south.

White-winged Black Tern – 20 at Sahnawt Farm and a couple at Sun Farm.

Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse – a pair at a site in the Al Hajar Mountains with 3 there the following day.

Spotted Sandgrouse – 80 flew into the oasis at Qatbit.

Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse – 100 Salalah Sewage Works, 40 Sahnawt Farm and 105 Sun Farm, Sohar.

Rock Dove – genuine examples seen at Ash Shuwaymiyah and the Dhofar area, in the north often feral

Collared Dove – very common with many thousands at both Sahnawt Farm and Sun Farm.

African Collared Dove – a pair at Wadi Rabkut, 2km north of the road in acacias

Oriental Turtle Dove – a single at Qatbit compound and oasis of the meena subspecies

Laughing Dove – very common and widespread though never as numerous as Collared Dove.

Namaqua Dove – a single briefly seen at Khawr Taqah. 8 out in the fields at Sun Farm gave good views.

Bruce's Green Pigeon – 7 at Wadi Hanna and 2 at Ayn Hamran were elusive but occasionally called.

Ring-necked Parakeet – widespread in the north and south.

Arabian Scops Owl – 8 heard at Ayn Hamran and 5 at Wadi Darbat, only seen in flight at Ayn Hamran.

Pallid Scops Owl (H) – Several calling in the central Al Hajar, with one in Wadi Bani Auf, heard only.

Spotted Eagle Owl – one seen on a couple of occasions at Wadi Darbat, with another calling.

Little Owl – a few recorded in the Al Hajar Mountains, one seen was a bird of a darker form.

Hume's Owl – one seen and another heard at the far end of the wadi at Ash Shuwaymiyah.

Omani Owl – one in the central Al Hajar Mountains, a highlight of the trip.

Egyptian Nightjar – one on 20th after dark on the sandy area to the south of Khawr Taqah.

Pallid Swift – flocks in the north frequent with 30 breeding at Ras As Sawadi.

White-collared Kingfisher – one at Liwa in mangroves at low tide of the threatened kalbaensis race.

Common Kingfisher – small numbers at many sites in the north and at Barr al Hikman in the east.

Little Green Bee-eater – widespread in the north though never numerous, not recorded in the south.

Indian Roller – widespread in the north with a maximum of 8 at Al Qurm Natural Park.

Hoopoe – singles at Wadi Darbat, Qatbit and Sun Farm.

Wryneck – one at Ayn Hamran on 22nd.

Singing Bush-lark – one in a field between Tawi Atayr and Wadi Darbat, one at Salalah Sewage Works.

Black-crowned Finch-lark – 2 west of Barr al Hikman and 3 at Wadi Rabkut included a female.

Desert Lark – widespread in small numbers, greyish taimuri in the Al Hajar, a sandy coloured ssp in south.

Hoopoe Lark – small numbers along the road between Thumrayt and Al Ghaftayn, plus 4 at Wadi Rabkut.

Bimaculated Lark – 20 at Sahnawt Farms along the road to the farm buildings.

Crested Lark – common and widespread.

Eurasian Skylark – recorded at Sun Farm with 12 present, included a poorly seen short-tailed individual.

Sand Martin – singles at Khawr Taqah and Salalah Sewage Works.

Pale Crag Martin – widespread in small numbers.

Barn Swallow – seen in small numbers at a few sites in the north and south, 40 at Salalah Sewage Works

House Martin – one at Wadi Ash Shuwaymiyah and 2 at Khawr Taqah.

Richard's Pipit – 3 at Sun Farm, Sohar.

Tawny Pipit – frequent and widespread, with a maximum of 6 at Sahnawt Farm.

Long-billed Pipit – singles at Al Mughsayl and Ayn Hamran, larger numbers in the Al Hajar Mountains.

Tree Pipit – a few in the south with one at Qatbit the most northerly.

Red-throated Pipit – widespread in small numbers, a maximum of 6 at Sun Farm.

Water Pipit – a minimum of 5 of the coutellii race at Sun Farm, Sohar.

Yellow Wagtail – common in the south, feldegg, thunbergi and lutea identified amongst others.

Citrine Wagtail – present in small numbers, particularly at coastal khawrs, also one at Qatbit.

Grey Wagtail – singles at Wadi Bani Auf and Wadi Hanna.

White Wagtail – widespread, a maximum of 250 at Dawkah Farm in the interior.

White-cheeked Bulbul – several at Al Qurm Natural Park and Shinas.

Red-vented Bulbul – a couple at Al Qurm Natural Park.

White-spectacled Bulbul – widespread and common, including a max of 10 at Wadi Ash Shuwaymiyah.

Grey Hypocolius – 4 at Qatbit consisted of one male and 3 females, seen near the petrol station and hotel.

Bluethroat – singles at Al Qurm, Al Ansab and Qatbit. Khawr Rawri had a max of 3 near reedmace.

Black Redstart – the semirufus race widespread in small numbers.

Common Redstart – one at Qatbit. Perhaps overlooked with the similarity to semirufus Black Redstarts.

Blackstart – widespread in the south, often in pairs.

Siberian Stonechat – singles seen at Khawr Taqah, Al Qurm and Sun Farm.

Isabelline Wheatear – small numbers widespread in the south, recorded as far north as Dawkah Farm.

Desert Wheatear – common and widespread, a maximum of 20 at Dawkah Farm.

Persian Wheatear – widespread in the Al Hajar Mountains with a max of 7, seen as far south as Qatbit.

Variable Wheatear – a female seen in a brief visit to Khatmat Milahah near the UAE border.

South Arabian Wheatear – 8 at Wadi Ash Shuwaymiyah and one up the valley behind Al Mughsayl.

Hooded Wheatear – a female along the new coastal road at the headland to the North-east of Hadbin.

Hume's Wheatear – frequent in the Al Hajar Mountains.

Blue Rock Thrush – singles at Wadi Ash Shuwaymiyah, Al Mughsayl and Wadi Bani Auf.

Dusky Thrush – a female type at Qatbit was a good bird for Oman, only 3 previous records.

Black-throated Thrush – a wintering male at Qatbit was a scarce species in the country.

Song Thrush – 2 at Qatbit in the vicinity of the two other thrush species.

Graceful Prinia – common in the north, also recorded at Khawr Rawri in the south.

Streaked Scrub Warbler – one in the wadi sabt at the entrance to the Al Ghubrah Bowl.

Clamorous Reed Warbler – frequent in the north and east. Indian Reed Warbler probably present also.

Ménétries’s Warbler – frequent in the Al Hajar, also at Ash Shuwaymiyah and Sun Farm.

Asian Desert Warbler – small numbers at desert wadis and Khatmat Milalah.

Arabian Warbler – small numbers at Wadi Hanna, Ayn Hamran and one at Wadi Rabkut.

Eastern Orphean Warbler – two in the Al Ghubrah bowl.

Lesser Whitethroat – halimodendri common in the north, variable on plumage, perhaps more taxa present.

Desert Whitethroat – 2 at Qatbit, probably overlooked elsewhere.

Yellow-browed Warbler – one at Dawkah Farm and one at Qatbit.

Hume's Warbler – one at Qatbit on 24th, the 9th or 10th for Oman if accepted.

Wood Warbler – one at Wadi Hanna, scarce in winter.

Plain Leaf Warbler – this species was frequent in the Al Hajar Mountains.

Chiffchaff – common, birds of tristis and abietinus recorded.

Red-breasted Flycatcher – small numbers in the Al Hajar Mountains, wadis in the South and Qatbit.

Taiga Flycatcher – one at Dawkah Farm on 23rd, potentially the 5th for Oman.

Semi-collared Flycatcher – one at Wadi Hanna and one at Wadi Darbat, scarce in winter.

African Paradise Flycatcher – common at Wadi Hanna, Wadi Darbat and Ayn Hamran.

Arabian Babbler – small numbers at a few sites in the north, and Wadi Gharm in the south-east.

Nile Valley Sunbird – recorded at Qatbit and common here with at least 8 present.

Purple Sunbird – common in the north.

Shining Sunbird – common in the south, first appearing at Ash Shuwaymiyah.

Palestine Sunbird – a couple in the south, at Tawi Atayr and Sahnawt Farm.

Abyssinian White-eye – common at Wadi Hanna, Wadi Darbat and Ayn Hamran. Also 2 at Al Mughsayl.

Black-crowned Tchagra – a few in the acacias at Ayn Hamran, of the form percivali.

Daurian Shrike – singles were widespread throughout the country.

Southern Grey Shrike – ssp aucheri frequent in the north, singles at Sahnawt Farm and Wadi Rabkut.

Steppe Grey Shrike – one at Wadi Gharm in the south-east.

House Crow – common in the north, less in the south but established in Salalah and Taqah.

Brown-necked Raven – the most common bird in much of the interior desert, also present in the Al Hajar.

Fan-tailed Raven – common in the south with a max of 80 at Tawi Atayr Sinkhole.

Tristram's Starling – common in the south, first appearing at Wadi Ash Shuwaymiyah, with 60 there.

Common Mynah – common in the north (100’s at Sun Farm) and south. 2 at Qatbit were a first for the site.

House Sparrow – very common, even away from habitation, very variable in appearance.

Yellow-throated Sparrow – one male at Qatbit on 24th.

Rüppell’s Weaver – common in the south with a max of 80 each at Khawr Taqah and Tawi Atayr.

Indian Silverbill – frequent in the north.

African Silverbill – occasional in the south.

Scaly-breasted Munia – naturalised in the Taqah area, two encountered in the agricultural area of Taqah.

Yemen Serin – a pair at Tawi Atayr between the car park and sinkhole in amongst Weavers.

Arabian Golden-winged Grosbeak – 4 feeding on fruiting trees at Ayn Hamran on 22nd. Near-threatened.

Striolated Bunting – max 6 in the Al Hajar Mountains, also singles at Ash Shuwaymiyah and near Hasik.

African Rock Bunting – common in the south, double figures at several sites, max of 20 at Tawi Atayr.

All photographs © Henry Cook and Sean Minns.