pacific textiles, pacific cultures: hybridity and pragmaticcreativity. (young-leslie and addo 2007)
TRANSCRIPT
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
1/10
]d~kqldkq} doz}k~( jhk}d dbz iq~}da~am }da k~lbfowb}okf ki zkjobh
bfm pkho}ojbh hoia jhk}d dahpz zkjobh l~kqpz }k ~ap~kmqja }daczahyaz
bfm }k bjdoaya bq}kfkc k~ bmybf}bla of of}a~bj}okfz |o}d k}da~z&
UO} dbzS bf bhckz} hoco}hazz pk}af}obh ik~ jkccqfojb}okf jhk}d oz b
~apkzo}k~ ik~ p~owam iona~z bfm maz( mamojb}am dqcbf hbnk~( bfm }da
yo~}qkzk b~}oz}~ ki jkcpa}o}oya b~}oz}oj mayahkpcaf}& $Zjdfaoma~ bfm
\aofa~ 2?4?72#>/
Of mazj~onofl jhk}d bz b ca}bpdk~ ik~ zkjoa} $2?4?7::/(
Bffa}}a \aofa~ m~b|z kf bf khm( |ahh#efk|f ]kflbf p~kya~n7dqcbfeofm oz hoea b cb} naofl |kyaf $\aofa~ 2?4?72( nbzam kf
^kla~z 2?
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
2/10
kq~ jkfjap} ki p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo}&
]k ~a}q~f }k }da p~kya~n( }da ca}bpdk~ ki }da |kyaf cb} oz
at}afmbnha nakfm }da lafabhklojbh z}~bfmz ki dqcbfo} }db}
kya~ }oca |abyaz }kla}da~ b zkjoa} bfm jqh}q~a( }k ofmat }da
ocphojo} dn~omo} bfm p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo} }db} cbeaz jqh}q~a
yon~bf}& ]da pbpa~z of }doz ykhqca p~kyoma yb~oam atbcphaz ki
}da pb~}ojqhb~o}oaz ki jkf}acpk~b~ Pbjoioj omaf}o}oaz }db} b~a bz
cbhhabnha bfm ckyabnha bz }da }at}oha camoqcz }db} afjkma
}dac& \doha }da ik~cz ki j~ab}oya bjdoayacaf} cb moiia~( |a
}dofe |db} }da dbya of jkcckf oz jkq~bla of }da ibja ki
jdbfla( b jbzqbh iab~hazzfazz of bpphofl j~ab}oya ofzpo~b}okf( bfm
bf bzzqcp}okf }db} bf}dofl $phbf} cb}a~obhz( ikqfm kngaj}z( ik~#
aolf |k~mz( z}haz ki m~azz( bq}k pbof}( j~qzdam n~oje/ jbf na
bmbp}am }k b jqh}q~bhh cabfofliqh j~ab}oya pq~zqo}7 p~blcb}oj
j~ab}oyo}&
]daza ozzqaz b~a la~cbfa nakfm }da Pbjoioj& N mabhofl |o}d
ozzqaz ki }at}ohaz cb}a~obho}( lafma~am zolfoiojbfja bfm p~kmqj#
}okf( ~ahkjb}okf( k|fa~zdop( ybhqa( bfm ayaf bq}daf}ojo}( kq~
bq}dk~z kpaf qp byafqaz ik~ mozjqzzokf ki b ~bfla ki ozzqaz |o}d
|dojd cacna~z ki yo~}qbhh bhh zkjoa}oaz l~bppha&
Dyn~omo}y Ofbq}daf}ojo}yOf }doz zpajobh ozzqa( |aya bzeam ~azab~jda~z }k z|o}jd i~kc }da
qzqbh }afmafj }k bzzazz dk| pakpha of ofmolafkqz zkjoa}oaz dbya
~acbofam }~bmo}okfbh k~ naaf ik~jam }k jdbfla& Ofz}abm( |a
bzeam }dac }k jkfzoma~ cb}a~obh jqh}q~az ~ahaybfja of }da kflk#
ofl |abyofl ki omaf}o} bfm jqh}q~a qfma~ yb~ofl pkho}ojbh( ajk#
fkcoj( bfm zkjobh jo~jqcz}bfjaz( ckz} azpajobhh }da jkhkfobh bfm
pkz}#jkhkfobh jkf}at}z ki Pbjoioj mobzpk~bz& ]da rqaz}okfz
bmm~azzam qfma~ }doz fa| pa~zpaj}oya ofjhqma7 |db} rqbho}oaz b~a
ofda~af} of }at}ohaz }db} cbea |kyaf( nab}af( bfm phbo}am jhk}d
ojkfz ki b Pbjoioj a}dkz }db} acn~bjaz ckma~fowb}okf bfm }~bmo#
}okf; \db} b~a }da pkho}ojbh jkf}at}z bfm }da jkfzarqafjaz ki
ocphofl }db} }da~a b~a $k~ aya~ |a~a/ pq~a bq}daf}oj ik~cz ki
bf ybhqam o}acz of }da Pbjoioj; \db} oz }da aiiojbj ki qzofl
cb}a~obh jqh}q~a kngaj}z }k |b~m b|b }da zafza ki ~oze of }da
atpa~oafja ki ckma~fo} $Naje 2??>( Lommafz 2??2/ k~ }da zpaj#
}~a ki ofbq}daf}ojo} $Gkhh 2??>/;
B cbgk~ ckyacaf} of b~} doz}k~ bfm bf}d~kpkhkl }|k mozjo#
phofaz jkfja~fam |o}d jqh}q~bh k~olofz oz }k qfma~z}bfm |d
ja~}bof kngaj}z b~a zbom }k ofmat }~bmo}okf |doha k}da~z b~a jkf#zoma~am ckma~f& ]doz jkfjap}qbh kppkzo}okf ki ckma~fo} bfm
}~bmo}okf oz ck~a bzzqcam }dbf ~abh& Bz Hb}kq~ dbz zdk|f
$2??
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
3/10
fbh }k zkca}dofl k}da~( |a zaa dn~omo} bz }da kflkofl jkfmo#
}okf ki bhh dqcbf jqh}q~az( |dojd jkf}bof fk wkfaz ki pq~o}
najbqza }da b~a qfma~lkofl jkf}ofqkqz p~kjazzaz ki hafmofl bfm
nk~~k|ofl $^kzbhmk 2??17ty/& Of }doz yoa|( wkfaz ki pq~o}
azzaf}obhh jkfz}o}q}a ibhza mojdk}kcoaz&
]dqz( |a ~agaj} }da fk}okf }db} ckmoioam( dn~omowam( ~a#hkjbh#
owam( jkcckmo}owam( k~ pkho}ojbhh }~bfzfb}okfbh ik~cz kjjqp
zkca zk~} ki ofbq}daf}oj zpbja hkjb}am zkca|da~a na}|aaf }da
pkhaz ki b }~bmo}okf k~ ckma~fo} jkf}ofqqc& Loyaf }doz jqh}q~bh
}afmafj }k ofmolafowb}okf( |daf Pbjoioj kf}khkloaz fb}q~bhowa
dn~omo}( |db} jkfz}o}q}az b jqh}q~bhh yobnha k~olofbh; \a b~lqa
}db} p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo} bz b zkjobhh zbfj}okfam( jqh}q~bhh
acnammam p~kjazz bhhk|z qz }k ~ajklfowa }daza dn~om }at}oha
p~kmqj}z bz bq}daf}oj offkyb}okfz& Pbjoioj pakphaz ofjhqzokf ki
}daza dn~om }at}ohaz of }dao~ jkccqfo}oaz ~o}qbh bfm rqk}omobf
p~bj}ojaz( ofjhqmofl omaf}o} falk}ob}okfz yoz##yoz cacna~z ki
fkf#Pbjoioj jkccqfo}oaz( bhzk cbeaz }daza offkyb}okfz bq}daf#
}oj& Of k}da~ |k~mz( baz}da}oj yozokf bfm jqh}q~bh qza maiofa
bq}daf}ojo}& \doha o} cb zaac ~amqfmbf} }k ~a#b~lqa }da pkof}
}db} offkyb}okf mkaz fk} lbofzb jqh}q~bh bq}daf}ojo}( }afzokfz
}db} aca~la of mozjqzzokfz ki dk| fa| ik~cz b~}ojqhb}a |o}d
khm$a~/ k~ k}da~ }paz ofmojb}a b |omazp~abm mozjkcik~} |o}d
dn~omo} bz kf}khkl&> ]da bq}dk~z of }doz ozzqa mackfz}~b}a(
kya~}h k~ ocphojo}h( }db} dn~omo} oz b fk~cbh ~azqh} ki b zdb~am
bfm mfbcoj a}dkz ki p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo}&
Hoea Gkhh $2??>/ bfm \b}zkf $2??0/( |a fk}a }db} Pbjoioj pak#
phaz ckmqz kpa~bfmo dbz naaf }k j~ab}a jqh}q~bh ik~cz bfm omaf}o#
}oaz of bjjk~mbfja |o}d ofmoyomqbh aflblacaf} of }da hkjbh afyo#
~kfcaf}& Ikt $2??002 n Pdhhoz Da~mb( Pofl#Bff Bmmk( bfm Gbfa
Dk~bf( |bz jbhham Dn~om ]at}ohaz ki }da Pbjoioj& Gadbffa
]aohda}#Ioze |bz b pb~}ojopbf} of \abyofl }da \k~hm bfm |bf}#
am }k pb~}ojopb}a of Dn~om ]at}ohaz& Da~ ohhfazz( |dojd |a
efa| b} }da }oca }k na }a~cofbh( p~ayaf}am da~& ]da pb~}ojopbf}z
of }db} zazzokf qfbfockqzh jdkza }k mamojb}a }dao~ pbpa~z }k
Gadbffa( of dkfk~ ki da~ jkf}~onq}okf }k }da z}qm ki pkpqhb~
ik~cz ki }~bmo}okfbh b~}z( da~ mayk}okf }k da~ z}qmaf}z( bfm }k
Pbjoioj pakphaz $|a ~aia~ kq }k }da zajkfm pbpa~ of }doz ykhqca(
Zbcbf}db Iozez nokl~bpdojbh zea}jd ki da~ ck}da~/& Bi}a~ da~
mab}d of Bqlqz} >00>( pb~}ojopbf}z of }db} zazzokf majomam }k
pqnhozd }dao~ pbpa~z bz b jkhhaj}okf of da~ cack~& ]k }doz afm(
zaya~bh pb~}ojopbf}z ca} blbof of Ybfjkqya~ b} }da >00: BZBK&
]da zazzokf k~lbfowa~z( |dk fk| ofjhqmam Dab}da~ _kqfl Hazhoa(
bhzk ofyo}am jkf}~onq}okfz i~kc k}da~z |dk dbm mayahkpam pa~#
zkfbh bfm zjdkhb~h jkffaj}okfz |o}d ]aohda}#Ioze bfm da~ |k~e
kf Pbjoioj }at}ohaz& ]dqz }doz jkhhaj}okf ki pbpa~z ~ap~azaf}z pa~#
zpaj}oyaz i~bcam n( k~ of ~ahb}okf }k( }da ofzold}z bfm af}dqzo#
bzcz ki Gadbffa ]aohda}#Ioze&
Of pb~}ojqhb~( |a |a~a ofzpo~am n ]aohda}#Iozez pbpa~z kf
]kflbf nb~ejhk}d bfm }da |boz} lb~caf}z jbhham eoaeoa $2??2(2??>b( 2??>n/& ]dkza pbpa~z mabh} p~ocb~oh |o}d jqh}q~bh p~bj#
PbjoiojB~}z
FZ ykhz& :#1( >00
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
4/10
PbjoiojB~}z
FZ ykhz& :#1( >00/ b} }da zbca }oca(
zda b~lqam( }da bj}qbh cb}a~obh ik~cz ki }da }bkybhb b~a fk} z}bl#
fbf}& Of }doz( zda pkof}am }k }da ihqomo} |o}d |dojd ]kflbfz
bh}a~ }dao~ mboh nkmoh p~bj}ojaz bz }da ckya na}|aaf }da
macbfmz ki ~o}qbh bfm aya~mb ckma~f hoia& ]aohda}#Ioze b~lqam
}db} ik~ jkcckfa~z( }da i~aamkc biik~mam n }da eoaeoa cbma }db}
z}ha ki lb~caf} b pkpqhb~ bh}a~fb}oya }k }da ck~a jkfiofofl}bkybhb& Of ~a}~kzpaj}( |a fk}a }db} ]aohda}#Ioze dbm omaf}oioam
kfa ki }da ea ahacaf}z ki dn~om cb}a~obh jqh}q~a of }da ckma~f
]kflbf a}dfkzjbpa7 jkf}acpk~b~ eoaeoa cb na cbma ki pbf#
mbfqz k~ donozjqz nb~e( k~ kq} ki yomak}bpa( ocpk~}am pabjkje
iab}da~z( k~ hbjrqa~am jkjkfq} zdahh& ]da cb na efk}}am qzofl
cbj~bc }ajdforqaz( j~kjda}am( k~ cbjdofa za|f k~ m~ohham&
\doha jhab~h zfj~a}oj( }da eoaeoa b~a arqbhh doz}k~oj bfm }~bmo#
}okfbh mo~aj}h bfbhklkqz }k }da bp~kfz bfm k}da~ |boz} lb~#
caf}z omaf}oioam of Jkkez 24}d
#jaf}q~ jkhhaj}okfz $Ebappha~
2?9/ zbz $ki Aq~k#
Bca~ojbfz/( |a eaap }da omabz( }da rqk}b}okfz( }da cacko~z( }da
j~ab}okfz( bfm ha} }da pakpha lk& ]da kppkzo}a oz }~qa of }da
Pbjoioj& Mazj~onofl }daza |bz ki k~lbfowofl ybhqbnha }doflz bz
z}haz ki j~ab}oyo}( \blfa~ cbeaz b pkof} bnkq} Pbpqb Fa|
Lqofab }db} |a nahoaya oz ~ahaybf} ik~ }da af}o~a Pbjoioj7 O} oz
pakpha( bfm }da atpa~oafjaz bfm cabfoflz bzzkjob}am |o}d }dac(
}db} }da mk fk} |bf} }k hkza( ~b}da~ }dbf omabz bfm }doflz& _a}
dk| b~a pakpha( atpa~oafjaz( cabfoflz( omabz( bfm }doflz jkf#
faj}am bfm eap}; ]at}ohaz b~a azpajobhh qzaiqh ik~ j~ab}ofl }oaz
}db} nofm $Zjdfaoma~ bfm \aofa~ 2?4?/& ]da ya~ cb}a~obho} ki
}at}ohaz afjkcpbzzaz b ~bfla ki pdzojbh bfm zcnkhoj pk}af}obho#
}oaz }db} pakpha jkf}ofqbhh qza bfm bmbp}& Jbpo}bhowofl kf }doz
jbpbjo}( pakpha ~afma~ }at}ohaz of}k zkjobhh afmq~ofl kngaj}z&
]at}ohaz afmq~a najbqza( bfm zk }db}( }dao~ pakpha afmq~a&Pbjoioj }at}ohaz b~a ki}af cbma ki ahacaf}z i~kc yb~oam jqh}q~bh
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
5/10
PbjoiojB~}z
FZ ykhz& :#1( >00/& Bz
ja~ackfobh jhk}dofl( }da p~k}aj}( nabq}oi( omaf}oi( bfm jbf }q~f
dqcbf jk~pk~abho} of}k zjqhp}q~a $Bmmk >00=b/( bmmofl zkjobh
|aold} $_kqfl Hazhoa >00=/ |da~a o} oz mqa&
]at}ohaz pdzojbh bfm zkjobh cbhhabnoho} cbeaz }dac b}}~bj}oya
camob ik~ b~}oz}z |dkza p~kjazzaz ofmat ozzqaz ki omaf}o} $Cbhhkf
bfm Pa~ao~b 2??4 bfm >00>/ of jkf}at}z ki gkq~faz bfm lafabhk#
loaz& Gqz} bz kfa jbf }q~f b nkm of}k zjqhp}q~a qzofl }at}ohaz( zk
}kk jbf kfa zjqhp}( ckqhm( k~ $~a/ibzdokf b }at}oha( k~ }da camob
}db} jkfz}o}q}az b }at}oha kngaj}& ]da Ck~o |dk za}}ham io~z} of
|db} |a fk| jbhh Bk}ab~kb+Fa| Wabhbfm dbm bjjazz }k }da
da~aeaea phbf} UihbtS( nq} fk} }da pbfmbfqz ki }dao~ bfjaz}k~z5 }da
bmbp}am }dao~ efk|hamla bfm zeohhz }k }da hkjbh camoqc $ihbt/
p~kmqjofl b fa|( moiia~af}( bfm jhab~h zpajobh jk~pqz ki }at}ohaz
bfm }at}oha#cbeofl }ajdforqaz }db} b~a rqof}azzaf}obhh Cbk~o&Hoea|oza( jkf}acpk~b~ Foqabf |kcaf hoyofl of Bk}ab~kb+Fa|
Wabhbfm dbya acn~bjam fa| cb}a~obhz hoea ihbt( nq} bhzk phbz}oj
pbjeofl z}~opz bfm jkhkq~am ~onnkf bz cb}a~obhz ik~ |abyofl db}z(
nbzea}z( bfm cb}z& ]daya bhzk bpphoam }da z}haz hab~fam kf
Foqa( k~ bmbp}am k}da~ z}haz $]dkma#B~k~b( }doz ozzqa/&
P~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo} ihk|z of bhh mo~aj}okfz7 of ]kflb( |kcaf b~a
phbo}ofl ocpk~}am loi}#|~bp ~onnkf of}k ya~ ckma~f }bkybhb
$_kqfl Hazhoa( }doz ozzqa/&
\a yoa| }doz ~abmofazz }k ~a#afyozokf cqfmbfa kngaj}z( bfm }k
zaa }dac bz dbyofl b~}oz}oj pk}af}obh( bz b jhab~ atbcpha ki p~bl#
cb}oj j~ab}oyo}& Of b ja~}bof pbz}( |daf hkjbh afyo~kfcaf}z |a~a
~oia |o}d zdahhz bfm phbf}z( p~kjazzofl bfm b~}oz}oj cbfopqhb}okf ki
habyaz bfm ihk|a~z ham }k }da ik~cz z}a~ak}poj ki Pbjoioj }at}oha
b~}z }kmb& Dk|aya~( }dkza camob |a~a azzaf}obhh hkjbh dkqzadkhm
kngaj}z |dkza b~}oz}oj pk}af}obh |a~a omaf}oioam bfm }~bfzpkzam
of}k knga}z mb~}& ]kmb( cacna~z ki }da Pbjoioj a}dfkzjbpa hoya of
afyo~kfcaf}z arqbhh q~nbf bfm ~q~bh( |o}d moiia~af} }paz ki
dkqzadkhm bfm ikqfm camob bz ~azkq~jaz& Dqfm~amz ki ab~z bi}a~
|kcaf bmbp}am pbfmbfqz#p~kjazzofl }ajdforqaz }k ofyaf} }da
iona~z qzam ik~ Cbk~o |kyaf jhkbez( }da pb~} Zbckbf( pb~} Cbk~o(
pb~} O~ozd( pb~} ]qybhqbf( pb~} I~afjd( Bqjehbfm ~azomaf}
^kzbffb ^bckfm pb}jdam da~ Hayoz |o}d ]kflbf nb~ejhk}d bfm
j~ab}am b ya~ zpajobh( moiia~af} bfm fa| }pa ki ibzdokf bj}oyozc
$^bckfm >00:72?
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
6/10
PbjoiojB~}z
FZ ykhz& :#1( >0000072/
b~lqam( }k mk k}da~|oza ahomaz ajkfkcoj( pkho}ojbh bfm zkjobh
ofarqbho}oaz bfm bzzqcaz zkca zk~} ki zcnok}oj ~ahb}okfzdop
na}|aaf pakpha bfm jqh}q~bh ik~cz& \doha cbf jqh}q~bh ik~cz
b~a jkfzoma~am bq}daf}oj najbqza }da p~kcqhlb}a pb~}ojqhb~
pkho}ojbh bfm jqh}q~bh blafmbz( o} oz ocpk~}bf} }k bjefk|hamla
ik~cz }db} ofmat bh}a~fb}oya atpa~oafjaz ki zdb~am jqh}q~bh doz}k#
~oaz& Bz zqjd( cbf ki }da pbpa~z of }doz ykhqca doldhold} }da aho#
zokf( bz |ahh bz }da af}~afjdcaf}( ki ~bfe bfm pk|a~ }d~kqld
cb}a~obh jqh}q~a& Bz ~apkzo}k~oaz ki dqcbf atpa~oafja( jqh}q~bh
ik~cz bhzk ofmat b ~bfla ki hkjb}okfz bfm zkjobh a~bz& O} oz }da~a#
ik~a knyokqz bfm( b~lqbnh( knholb}k~ }k z}~a}jd kq~ hkjb}okfz
ki jkfja~f+bfbhzoz bfm jkfzoma~ Pbjoioj a}dfkzjbpaz of }dao~ lak#
l~bpdoj yb~obnoho}&
Zaya~bh jkf}~onq}k~z }k }doz ykhqca zdk| }db} rqoh}ofl( b }ajd#
fkhkl i~kc Aflhbfm bfm da~ jkhkfoaz( dbz naaf hkjbhowam bfm
ahbnk~b}am n Pbjoioj |kcaf& Zk|ahh( Ebcado~k( Da~ceafz bfm
Da~mb atphk~a }da |bz of |dojd nb~ejhk}dz bfm rqoh}z za~ya bz
qzaiqh jkcckmo}oaz bfm bz }~abzq~am bfm ofbhoafbnha loi}z( nq} bhzk
bz }acphb}az ik~ jkfzoma~ofl acpo~a bfm pkz}#jkhkfobh ~ahb}okfz&
Ahza|da~a( Da~mb $2???/ mazj~onaz ]kflbf#Bca~ojbf |kcaf
pb~}ojopb}ofl of ~o}qbhz }db} ik~cbhh zqnz}bf}ob}a ]kflbf z}b}a
dalackf& \doha p~oz}ofa jqh}q~bh ik~cz b~a jqz}kcb~ of zqjd
ayaf}z( }daza |kcaf qza cbjdofa#za|f rqoh}z bz loi} o}acz ~b}da~
}dbf }da doz}k~ojbhh p~azj~onam phbo}am pbfmbfqz bfm nab}af
nb~ejhk}d& Of zk mkofl( }da zo}qb}a }daczahyaz bz nk}d ]kflbf
bfm ]kflbf#Bca~ojbf5 dn~omz arqbhh ofyaz}am of( bfm i~aa ki(
zpajoioj jqh}q~bh dalackfoaz& ^aikjqzofl kf }da Db|boobf ozhbfmz(
of }doz ozzqa Da~mb at}afmz da~ of}a~az} of z}b}a ofihqafja kf }at#
}oha maphkcaf}z }k b~lqa }db}( of }da zdbmk| ki }da Bca~ojbf
bffatb}okf ki }da Db|boobf ozhbfmz( bfm of }da kflkofl jkf}at}
ki Ebfbeb Cbkho zkya~aolf} ozzqaz( Db|boobf rqoh} ck}oiz b~a
pkho}ojbhh zbia ojkfz najbqza }da mk fk} bpp~kp~ob}a ocblaz ki
ofmolafao}& Mboh#qza o}acz hoea cqlz( z}bcpz( bfm dkca majk~b#
}okfz( bz |ahh bz }kq~oz} o}acz zqjd bz pkz}jb~mz bfm ea jdbofz b~a
acnahhozdam |o}d ofkiiafzoya rqoh} ck}oiz zqjd bz n~abmi~qo} bfm
i~bflopbfo& Ebcado~k fk}az }db} zqjd zcnkhz b~a qfma~z}kkm bz
}~bmo}okfbh( Db|boobf( bfm ayaf jdoaih7 }da dbya hkfl naaf
jkffaj}am }k p~bj}ojaz ki loi} atjdbfla( bfm ocnqam |o}d zpo~o}q#bh bfm pa~zkfbh zolfoiojbfja i~kc pakpha |dk |k~eam }da mazolfz
kf }da rqoh}z& _a}( bz Da~mb pkof}z kq} da~a( bz ofzolfob kf }kq~oz}
kngaj}z }db} b~a cbzz#p~kmqjam bfm dq~~oamh nkqld}( }daza jkf#
}acpk~b~ b~}z b~a jkfzqcam n nk}d ofmoyomqbhz zab~jdofl ik~ b
}bz}a ki }da zk#jbhham bq}daf}oj }~bmo}okfbh Pbjoioj pbz}( bz |ahh bz
n hkjbh Db|boobf pakpha |dk qfma~z}bfm }db} jkf}acpk~b~
b~}oz}oj ik~cz b~a }~bmo}okfbh& Rqoh}am n~abmi~qo} bfm i~bflopbfo
ck}oiz najkca yadojhaz ik~ b ~bfla ki |bz ki af}a~ofl bfm haby#
ofl Db|boobf jqh}q~a&
Ebcado~kz pbpa~ zf}dazowaz b~jdoybh ofik~cb}okf kf b ~bfla ki
Db|boobf mozjkq~zaz bnkq} rqoh}z( rqoh} pb}}a~fz( bfm }ajdfkhk#
loaz( bfm doldhold}z }da bmbp}bnoho} ki Db|boobf baz}da}ojz bfm
ybhqb}okf ki cb}a~obh ik~cz zqjd }db} jk}}kf rqoh}z cbma i~kc bfocpk~}am }ajdfkhkl najbca( bfm bnoma bz( }da p~amkcofbf}
}~bmo}okfbh Db|boobf }at}oha ik~c }kmb& Of da~ doz}k~ojbh bfbhzoz
ki zaya~bh pkpqhb~ Db|boobf rqoh} ck}oiz( Ebcado~k b~lqaz }db}
}da ybhomb}am mozjkq~zaz ki aho}az ~qha bfm bzjafzokf of }da jkf#
}at} ki 24}d
#bfm#2?}d
jaf}q~ ckfb~jd o}zahi b i~bloha b}}acp} }k
dn~omowa p~a#Jd~oz}obf bfm pkz}#cozzokf zkjobh ik~cz bfm }da
pa~o#bffatb}okf pa~okm( fk| }dkqld} ki |o}d fkz}bhlob n Ebfbeb
Cbkho bfm zkya~aolf} bmykjb}az& Rqoh}ofl }ajdfkhkloaz( bz |ahh
bz ki}#qzam mazolfz( |a~a kfja jdoaih p~a~klb}oyaz }db} dbya fk|
naaf mackj~b}owam& Nk}d _kqfl Hazhoa bfm Bmmk cbea zocohb~
pkof}z of }dao~ pbpa~z bnkq} jkcckfa~ b~}ozbfz jkf}~kh kya~ }at#
}oha mazolf bfm p~kmqj}okf& Dk|aya~( of }da p~kmqj}okf ki doz#
}k~oj Db|boobf rqoh}z bz loi}z( dk|( |daf( bfm ik~ |dkc }da
|a~a p~kmqjam( b~a bj}okfz ocnqam |o}d p~k}kjkhz bfm zkjobh
~azpkfzonoho}oaz }db} ofmatam }dao~ jdoaih k~olofz& Ebcado~kz
azzb jkcphacaf}z Zk|ahhz bfm Zjk}dk~fz |k~e of doz}k~ojbhh
cbppofl }da ofihqafja ki doa~b~jd bfm aho}az kf b~} ik~cz zqjd
bz rqoh}ofl bfm( of }da jbza ki Zbckb bfm ]kflb( nb~ejhk}d cbe#
ofl& B} }da zbca }oca( Ebcado~kz of}a~az} of }da cqh}opha caz#
zblaz }db} rqoh}z afjkmam ik~ Db|boobfz mq~ofl }da }q~nqhaf}
}ocaz ki }da hbz} Db|boobf zkya~aolfz ~azkfb}az of nk}d bfbh}ojbh
}ajdforqa bfm }~bfz#jqh}q~bh zjkpa |o}d Zdb~~bmz bfbhzoz ki }da
of}a~#}at}qbho} bfm }da cfackfoj jkmofl ki b poaja ki nb~ejhk}d
i~kc ]bdo}o& Of bhh }d~aa bfbhzaz( jhk}d oz }at}qbh bfm jbf na ~abm
bj~kzz }oca( zpbja( bfm jqh}q~bh nkqfmb~oaz $bh}dkqld o} oz fk}
bh|bz ~abm bjjq~b}ah/&
Zdb~~bmz }dak~a}ojbhh zkpdoz}ojb}am b~}ojha m~b|z kf dn~om
zkq~jaz ]bdo}obf pka}~ bfm N~o}ozd acn~koma~ }k mackf#
z}~b}a dk| bf bfbhzoz jbf bmda~a }k Jkkcnaz bfm N~bdz $>000/|b~fofl }k bykom qfj~o}ojbh jahan~b}okfz ki zfj~a}ozc( |doha pb#
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
7/10
ofl b}}af}okf }k ajkfkcoj( pkho}ojbh( bfm zkjobh ofarqbho}oaz& Of
doz mozjqzzokf ki Ahowbna}d Jkkez acn~koma~am ]bdo}obf nb~e#
jhk}d( of}afmam }k na b |boz}jkb} ik~ da~ dqznbfm( }da atphk~a~
Jbp}bof Gbcaz Jkke( Zdb~~bm jkofz }da }a~c p~blcb}ojz ki ckm#
oiojb}okf b jkfjap} zacbf}ojbhh jkfl~qaf} |o}d kq~ fk}okf ki
p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo}& Ahowbna}d Jkke |bz |omk|am( bfm }da |boz}#
jkb} |bz faya~ jkcpha}am& Nq} of Zdb~~bmz bfbhzoz( o} ~acbofz b
}at}oha |doha najkcofl b ~abmbnha }at}& Zdb~~bm jkcpb~az }da
|boz}jkb}z acn~koma~am zq~ibja }k ]bdo}obf bfm Jkke Ozhbfmz
pka}~( |~o}}af of I~afjd bfm Aflhozd7 nk}d zolfoi cabfofliqh
zolfoiojb}okfz kf }at}q~am $|do}a/ zq~ibjaz5 nk}d b~a hba~am
}at}z5 nk}d jbf na ~abm bz zo}qb}okfz of |dojd ocpa~obh pk|a~
bfm Pbjoioj cabfoflz b~a hba~am bfm ~a#jkfiolq~am( nq} fk} of
zocphoz}oj |bz& Of Zdb~~bmz bfbhzoz( jkhkfobh bfm pkz}#jkhkfobh
b~}oibj}z b~a jklfo}oyah kpaf( ~opa ik~ ~a#~abmofl bfm ~a#of}a~p~a#
}b}okf& Gqz} bz }da nb~ejhk}d i~kc ]bdo}o |bz k~olofbhh acn~ko#
ma~am of}k bf b~}oibj} |a jbf qza }kmb ik~ ~abmofl }da jkcphato#
}oaz ki jkhkfobhozc( zk oz o} zqngaj} }k $of}ahhaj}qbh/ ~a#acn~koma~#
ofl& Hoea|oza( ]bdo}obf pka} Ihk~b Mayb}ofa hba~z dn~om }at}oha
bfm zolfoiojb}okf( bfm ~a#acn~koma~z cabfoflz |daf zda qzaz
I~afjd bfm Cb`kdo |k~mz bz }at} kf pbpa~& ^abmofl Zdb~~bmz
azzb of ~ahb}okf }k Bmmkz azzb kf flb}q papb habmz qz }k ~ajkl#
fowa }da |bz of |dojd pbpa~ jbf na b }at}oha bfm yoja ya~zb&
]kmb( }da qfiofozdam |boz}jkb}( Mayb}ofaz pkacz( bfm flb}q
papb zpabe }k ckcaf}z ki ~qp}q~a( nabq}( hkya( hkzz( omaf}o}( bfm
lafma~am ik~cz ki ~azpkfzonoho}&
Ofmaam( kfa b~ab of |dojd Pbjoioj }at}ohaz zaac }k dbya bnomofl
zolfoiojbfja oz bz lafma~am zcnkhz ki nahkflofl bfm mackfz}~b#
}okfz ki ~kha bfm ~azpkfzonoho}& ]da zdk~}dbfm rqbhoioa~ |kcafz
|abh}d dbz ~aia~~am }k }at}ohaz ki bf eofm7 rqoh}z( iofa cb}z k~
pbpa~& _a}( |doha }da Pbjoioj pakphaz jkfzoma~am of }daza pbpa~z
lafa~bhh jkfzoma~ }at}oha cbeofl }k fk} na cafz |k~e pa~ za(
caf ki}af mk pb~}ojopb}a of p~kmqj}okf( dahp }k k~lbfowa ja~ack#
fobh atjdbflaz( ~ajaoya p~azaf}b}okfz ki }at}oha |abh}d $_kqfl
Hazhoa 2???/( bfm qza }at}ohaz of cqfmbfa bfm ja~ackfobh jkf#
}at}z& Dk|aya~( bz Da~ceafz azzb doldhold}z( of }da jkf}at} ki
bpp~kp~ob}okf( ckfa}owb}okf( bfm ckma~fowb}okf( }at}ohaz jbf bhzk
na lafma~am bz cbha p~kmqj}z& Bi}a~ b n~oai mozjqzzokf ki }da zc#
nkhozc ki majk~b}oya mazolfz( nb~e p~kjazzofl( ma pk}z( bfm maz
of Cbozof nb~ejhk}d p~kmqj}okf( Da~ceafz ma}bohz }da zdoi}z of
~ahb}okfz ki nb~ejhk}d p~kmqj}okf }db} dbya }beaf phbja of }dahbz} dbhi jaf}q~ of Jkhhofl|kkm Nb( Pbpqb Fa| Lqofab $zaa
bhzk Bmmk bfm Nazfoa~( ik~}djkcofl/& \doha nb~ejhk}d jkcca~#
jobhowb}okf j~ab}az b zpbja ik~ iacbha blafj( o} bhzk j~ab}az b
zpbja ki }afzokf bz caf zaae }k jkf}~kh bfm mkcofb}a |kcafz
p~kmqj}okf& B} }da zbca }oca( kq}zoma ik~jaz( ofjhqmofl
L~aafpabja bfm }da hkjbh Bflhojbf Jdq~jd( b~a n~kea~ofl ik~ }da
}kq~oz} cb~ea} bfm dahpofl }k bjjaha~b}a jdbflaz of }da lafma~am
~ahb}okfz ki p~kmqj}okf bfm jkf}~kh& Kfja zk zpajoiojbhh }da |k~e
ki |kcaf }k }da pkof} |da~a b |kcbf jkqhm na omaf}oioam n
}da mazolfz kf da~ jhk}d nb~ejhk}d of Cbozof fk| ofjhqmaz
nb~ejhk}dz nab}af n |kcaf( majk~b}am n caf( bfm cb~ea}am n
L~aafpabja&
Da~ceafz ma}boham atphbfb}okf ki }da ca}bpdk~ojbh zolfoio#
jbfja kimqf $~am ma zcnkhoj ki nhkkm/ bfm ma pk}z $zcnkhoj
ki |kcnz/ ~ahb}az }k bfk}da~ ocpk~}bf} b~ab ki lafma~am zolfoio#
jbfja ki Pbjoioj }at}ohaz& Of cbf jkf}at}z jhk}d p~kmqj}okf bfm
maphkcaf} b~a jhkzah bzzkjob}am |o}d ck}da~z bfm }da hkya bfm
~azpkfzonoho} }db} }da nab~ }dao~ jdohm~af bfm ibcoh $Bmmk
>00=n5 Zjdfaoma~ bfm \aofa~ 2?4?5 Dkzeofz 2?4?5 Ik~zdaa >0005
_kqfl Hazhoa 2???( >00=5 bhzk zaa Bmmk( ]dkma#B~k~b( _kqfl
Hazhoa bfm Zk|ahh( bhh of }doz ozzqa/& ]daza cb}a~fbh jkfja~fz
j~kzz Pbjoioj a}dfkzjbpaz bfm b~a jb~~oam of}k mobzpk~bz& ]dkma#
B~k~b bfm Bmmk mozjqzz dk| jhk}d p~kmqj}okf n |kcaf i~kc
Foqa bfm ]kflb( fk| ~azomaf}z bfm jo}owafz ki Fa| Wabhbfm( iofm
|bz }k mackfz}~b}a }k }dao~ jdohm~af bfm l~bfmjdohm~af zkca ki
}da ckz} zbhoaf} bzpaj}z ki naofl ck}da~z of }dao~ a}dfoj }~bmo#
}okfz&
Jkfja~fz bnkq} bpp~kp~ob}a ck}da~dkkm bfm zkjobh knholb}okf
kya~hbp |o}d jkfja~fz bnkq} jqh}q~bh bq}daf}ojo} of( bfm ki(
Pbjoioj mobzpk~bz& Bmmk $}doz ykhqca/ bmm~azzaz }doz ozzqa of da~
pbpa~ kf ]kflbf nb~ejhk}d p~kmqj}okf of Fa| Wabhbfm& Flb}q
papb nb~ejhk}d cbma( fk} i~kc dobpk $pbpa~ cqhna~~ k~ n~kqz#
zkfa}ob pbp~oia~b/ nb~e nq} i~kc yhafa( b zf}da}oj ibn~oj qzam
ik~ lb~caf} of}a~ibjofl # oz jkf}af}okqz najbqza o} oz fk} cbma ki
dobpk nb~e bfm najbqza }da ckz} of}afza bfm hbnk~okqz z}blaz ki
nb~e nab}ofl b~a bykomam& _a} ]kflbf |kcaf ofykhyam of flb}q
papb p~kmqj}okf bmda~a }k }da omakhkl }db} lkkm ]kflbf ck}d#
a~z $of ibj} bhh bmqh} |kcaf/ zdkqhm hbnk~ }k p~kmqja nb~ejhk}d&
]doz oz moiiojqh} of }da mobzpk~b( |da~a dobpk nbz} oz qfbybohbnha&
]dqz( }da p~blcb}ojz ki ckmoiojb}okf $Zdb~~bmz }a~c/ jdbh#
hafla zqjd bf omakhkl |daf mobzpk~oj ]kflbf |kcaf jkfzoma~(
bfm jkf}az}( gqz} |db} bckqf}( eofm( bfm of}afzo} ki hbnk~ }dajbf ~ackya |o}dkq} biiaj}ofl }da cabfofl bfm ~kha ki flb}q papb
PbjoiojB~}z
FZ ykhz& :#1( >00
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
8/10
of dk| }da j~bi} }dao~ omaf}o}oaz& ]dao~ flb}q papb }da~aik~a
acnkmoaz jkfja~fz bnkq} lafma~ ~khaz( ~aholokqz ~azpkfzonoho}(
jkkpa~b}oya hbnk~( jkccqfo} mayahkpcaf}( bfm jqh}q~bh jkda#
zokf( bfm manb}az bnkq} omaf}o} bfm hkjb}okf ki bq}daf}oj jqh#
}q~a& Ek acbq bb}o pa $o} oz kq~ b~}/( zb Bmmkz of}a~hkjq}k~z
bnkq} }da flb}q papb }da dbya ofyaf}am( zocqh}bfakqzh ayke#
ofl o}z ~old}iqh phbja bz bf kngaj} ki }~bmo}okf bfm biiotofl
\az}a~f fk}okfz ki b~} of bf atpbfmofl mozjkq~za bnkq} jqh}q~bh
p~kmqj}okf bckfl jkf}acpk~b~ ]kflbfz& Dk|aya~( bz Bmmk
ofmojb}az( |db} oz fk} $a}/ iotam oz }da }a~~o}k~ kya~ |dojd flb}q
dbz zolfoiojbfja7 flb}q papb jkf}ofqaz }k na zkca|db} zqzpaj}( ik~
zkca&
Of cbf Pbjoioj Ozhbfm zkjoa}oaz( jhk}d oz bzzkjob}am |o}d lafma~
bfm dold#~bfeofl |kcaf5 cb}a~fobho} oz jkffaj}am }k lafabhkl(
zkjobh ~ap~kmqj}okf( bfm }da }~bfzia~afja ki ofda~o}bfja bfm p~oy#
ohala $Ebappha~ 2?00:/& Bz _kqfl Hazhoa $2???( >00=/ dbz
mackfz}~b}am( ik~ jkcckfa~ ]kflbf |kcaf( cb}a~fobho} bfm
jhk}d p~kmqj}okf b~a bhzk bnkq} }da }~bfzia~afja ki kppk~}qfo}(
ck~bh iona~( bfm }da iqhiohhcaf} ki ibcohobh knholb}okfz }db} habm }k
zkjobh |ahhfazz& \da~a aho}a |kcaf naz}k| kf }dao~ jdohm~af
nhkkm ~bfe( jkcckfa~ |kcaf loya }dao~ jdohm~af bfm ibcohoaz
}dao~ ofmqz}~( ofjhqmofl }da hbnk~ ~arqo~am ik~ }at}oha p~kmqj}okf&
Of }doz ozzqa( _kqfl Hazhoa ma}bohz jkcckfa~ |kcafz atpa~oaf#
}obh efk|hamla( pa~zpaj}oyaz( bfm z}~b}aloj maphkcaf}z ki }~bmo#
}okfbh jhk}d( bfm mozjqzzaz }da zcnkhoj bhhqzokfz bzzkjob}am |o}d
phbo}ofl }at}ohaz bhhqzokfz }db} mk fk} fajazzb~oh ~aphojb}a }dkza
bzzkjob}am |o}d }~bfzia~afja ki p~oyohala& ]doz jqh}q~bhh ojkfoj
ik~c ki efk|ofl hhbflb oz p~aza~yam kfh }d~kqld p~bj}oja
}da |k~e ki |abyofl $k~ phbo}ofl/ pbfmbfqz& \o}dkq} zqppk~} ik~
}da jkcckfa~ |kcaf |dk cbea ja~ackfobh }at}oha p~kmqj}okf
}dao~ hoiaz |k~e( }doz efk|hamla cb na hkz} i~kc }da jqh}q~bh
~apa~}ko~a( bz dbz naaf }da efk|#dk| ik~ hbhbyb( }da }~bmo}okfbh
cafz efk|hamla ki |~bppofl bfm nofmofl |o}d jk~mbla& Nbzam
kf a}dfkl~bpdoj ioahm|k~e jkfmqj}am of bf b~ab }db} oz ki}af
z}a~ak}pam bz }da dab~}hbfm ki }~bmo}okfbh ]kflbf jqh}q~bh p~bj#
}ojaz( _kqfl Hazhoa b~lqaz }db} maphkcaf} ~b}okfbhaz( }da fkf#
zj~op}am( acnkmoam fb}q~a ki }da efk|hamla( phqz }da apoz}ackhk#
l ki }da }~bmo}okfbh p~kmqj}okf }ajdfkhkloaz( cabfz o} oz jkc#
ckfa~ |kcaf |dk b~a qfma~|~o}ofl |bz ik~ jkf}acpk~b~
]kflbfz bj~kzz }da a}dfkzjbpa( azpajobhh }da aho}az( }k nadn~omz7 nk}d }~bmo}okfbh bfm ckma~f( |k~hmh bfm ofmolafkqz&
Hoea _kqfl Hazhoa( Bhhaf at}afmz kq~ qfma~z}bfmofl ki dn~omo}
of jhk}dz maphkcaf}7 bmkp}ofl bf b~} doz}k~obfz pa~zpaj}oya kf
}da bpphojb}okf ki z}k~a#nkqld} jhk}d |da~a k}da~ }~bmo}okfbh
}at}ohaz cb dbya naaf qzam naik~a( Bhhaf mazj~onaz dk| }~bma
z}k~a jbhojkz bfm k}da~ pq~jdbzam ibn~ojz cb na maphkam }k
ofz}bf}ob}a zkjobh bfm ja~ackfobh zpbjaz of jkf}acpk~b~ Zbckb&
]da lafa~bh acpdbzoz kf Zbckbf ja~ackfobh zpbja( bz apo}k#
cowam n }da yohhbla cbhba( oz azzaf}obhowam bz bf acp} jaf}a~ zq~#
~kqfmam n b macb~jb}am nb~~oa~ $Cblak >00>5 \afm} 2?00
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
9/10
mazolfz nk}d kf nb~ejhk}d zq~ibjaz bfm }b}}kkam zeof $Zk|ahh
>000/& Da~a( zda jkf}ofqaz }doz ikjqz kf dn~omo} of omaf}oiofl
}d~aa pohhb~z ki Zbckbf nb~ejhk}d#cbeofl7 ck}oiz( jkcpkzo}okf(
bfm fb}q~bh cb}a~obh& Ajdkofl }da ocphojb}okfz ki Zjk}dk~fz
|k~e( Zk|ahh mackfz}~b}az of l~ab}a~ ma}boh bfm jkcphato} dk|
kpaf Zbckbf b~}oz}z dbya ~acbofam }k ik~cz }db} jkfz}o}q}a jkf#
}acpk~b~ nb~ejhk}d |doha ckmoiofl yb~okqz bzpaj}z ki p~kmqj#
}okf bfm mazolf& ]dao~ p~blcb}oj bpp~kbjd }k j~ab}oyo}( bz
Zk|ahh acpdbzowaz of da~ doz}k~ojowb}okf ki }ajdforqaz( zdk|z
}db} Zbckbf nb~ejhk}d bfm nb~ejhk}d#cbeofl arqopcaf} jbffk}
na gqz}oiobnh jb}alk~owam bz }~bmo}okfbh( ckma~f( k~ ayaf fak#}~b#
mo}okfbh& Da~ |k~e ~ao}a~b}az Gadbffa ]aohda}#Iozez $2??2/ jbq#
}okf bnkq} }da p~knhacb}oj fb}q~a ki jb}alk~owofl jqh}q~bh ik~cz
bfm p~bj}ojaz bz bf}dofl nq} dn~om&
Jkfjhqzokf
Of }doz zpajobh jkhhaj}okf ki azzbz( kq~ of}af}okf oz }k cbea }da
ikhhk|ofl b z}bfmb~m yoa| of z}qmoaz bnkq} }da Pbjoioj7 bj~kzz }da
ib~ ihqfl ~alokfz ki Pbjoioj a}dfkzjbpaz( b~}oz}z bfm bqmoafjaz( j~ab}k~z
bfm jkfzqca~z acphk pa~zkfbh bfm jqh}q~bh blafj of zqppk~}ofl(
zqllaz}ofl( bfm zbfj}okfofl }da dn~omo} ki b~}oz}oj ik~cz& ]da nqohm
kf b jqh}q~bh a}dkz ki p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo} of }da za~yoja ki atp~azzofl
ofmoyomqbh ykojaz bfm nkhz}a~ofl jkhhaj}oya omaf}o}& \doha of zkca
jbzaz( }daza dn~om ik~cz k~ maphkcaf}z b~a jkf}az}am $zaa
Bmmk( Da~ceafz/( of ckz} jbzaz dn~omo} oz( bfm dbz bh|bz
naaf( acn~bjam( ofmolafowam( bfm cbma hkjbh $zaa Ebcado~k(
Zjk}dk~f( Zdb~~bm( _kqfl Hazhoa/& ]da zpaj}a~z ki ofbq}daf}ojo}
b~a lbofzbom n }da p~blcb}oj( iqfmbcaf}bh ~abho} ki dn~omo} bz
b jkfz}o}q}okfbh iab}q~a ki Pbjoioj jqh}q~bh j~ab}oyo}oaz& ]at}ohaz( bz
ihqom camoqcz ik~ ca}bpdk~owb}okf( afjkma( mkjqcaf} bfm bhhk|
Pbjoioj pakphaz }k ~abm( bfm ~a#~abm( ~a#acn~koma~ bfm ~a#|abya
}dao~ |k~hmz& Zkjoa} oz gqz} hoea b cb} naofl |kyaf&
Bjefk|hamlacaf}z
]k }da bq}dk~z |dkza jkf}~onq}okfz cbma }doz zpajobh ozzqa ki Pbjoioj B~}z pkzzo#
nha7 }dbfe kq ik~ kq~ mamojb}okf }k }doz p~kgaj} bfm }k }da cack~ ki Gadbffa
]aohda}#Ioze( |dk ~acbofz bf ofzpo~b}okf }k qz bhh& At}~b j~amo} lkaz }k Pdhhoz Da~mb
ik~ da~ ~kha of }da amo}k~obh }abc bfm da~ kflkofl habma~zdop& Ckz} ki }doz pbpa~ |bz
jkcpha}am |doha Dab}da~ _kqfl Hazhoa |bz b $ya~ l~b}aiqh/ yozo}ofl zjdkhb~ b} }da
CbjCohhbf N~k|f Jaf}~a( nq} o} nalbf of }da z}ocqhb}ofl b}ckzpda~a ki Pofl#Bff
Bmmkz ihb} bfm fab~n Dqmzkf Nb Jbi& Jb~kh Oyk~( Yo~lofob#Haa \ann( bfm }da
Ykhk pqnhozdofl }abc( bz |ahh bz Bcbfmb Nkje( maza~ya bpphbqza ik~ zdapda~mofl
}da iofbh jkp amo}z bfm yozqbh baz}da}ojz ki }da ozzqa& Dab}da~ _kqfl Hazhoa loyaz
ibebbpbbpb }k }da |kcaf bfm caf ki Dbbfk& \a nk}d }dbfe }da ]kflbf Jbnofa}
ik~ ~azab~jd pa~co}z&
Fk}az
2 Hoea O|bnqjdo( |a acphk }da }a~c n~ojkhaq~ $O|bnqjdo 2??4/( nq} |a ~agaj}
}da bzzkjob}okfz ki of}ahhaj}qbh p~kl~azz( ki p~oco}oya yz& ckma~f caf}bho} }db} b~a
zkca}ocaz coz}beafh bzzkjob}am |o}d Hayo#Z}~bqzz $2?99/ fk}okf ki }da n~ojkhaq~
$zaa Laa~}w 2? Ik~ ho}a~b}q~a kf offkyb}okf( }~bmo}okf bfm bq}daf}ojo} zaa7 \blfa~ 2?00=b& Eofzdop( Jhk}d( bfm Jkccqfo} of Bqjehbfm( Fa|
Wabhbfm7 Jkcckfa~ ]kflbf \kcaf Falk}ob}a ]~bfzhb}okfbh Omaf}o} Qzofl
]~bmo}okfbhh#Z}ham ]at}oha \abh}d& Pd&M& mozz&( _bha Qfoya~zo}( Fa| Dbyaf(
Jkffaj}ojq}& Bff B~nk~7 Qfoya~zo} Coj~kiohcz&
& >00=n& Poajaz ki Jhk}d( Poajaz ki Jqh}q~a7 ]bpb i~kc ]kflb bfm }da Pbjoioj Ozhbfmz&
Kbehbfm bfm Zbf I~bfjozjk7 Jaf}a~ ik~ B~} bfm Pqnhoj Hoia $Jbhoik~fob Jkhhala ki
}da B~}z/ bfm }da Jbhoik~fob Bjbmac ki Zjoafjaz&
Bmmk( Pofl#Bff bfm Foek Nazfoa~& Ik~}djkcofl& \daf Loi}z NajkcaJkcckmo}oaz7 Pb|f Zdkpz( Ybhqbnhaz( bfm Zdbca of ]kflb bfm }da ]kflbf
Mobzpk~b& Gkq~fbh ki }da ^kbh Bf}d~kpkhklojbh Ofz}o}q}a&
Bppbmq~bo( B~gqf& 2??9& Ckma~fo} b} Hb~la7 Jqh}q~bh Mocafzokfz ki Lhknbhowb}okf&
Coffabpkhoz7 Coffazk}b Qfoya~zo} P~azz&
Nkh}kf( Hozzbf}& >00:& Qfikhmofl }da Ckkf7 Afbj}ofl \kcafz Ebz}kc of Ybfqb}q &
Dkfkhqhq7 Qfoya~zo} ki Db|boo P~azz&
Jkkcnaz( Bffoa bfm By}b~ N~bd& >000& Of}~kmqj}okf7 ]da Jkfqfm~qc ki
Cotofl& Of Dn~omo} bfm o}z Mozjkf}af}z7 Pkho}ojz( Zjoafja( Jqh}q~a( amz& By}b~ N~bd
bfm Bffoa Jkkcnaz( 2#29& Hkfmkf7 ^kq}hamla&
Ik~zdaa( Gohh& >000& Na}|aaf }da Ikhmz7 Z}k~oaz ki Jhk}d( Hoyaz( bfm ]~byah i~kc
Zqcnb& Dkfkhqhq7 Qfoya~zo} ki Db|boo P~azz&
Ikt( Gbcaz& 2??
-
8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)
10/10
O|bnqjdo( Ekojdo& 2??4& Pq~a Ocpq~o}7 Gbpbfz Lafoqz ik~ Dn~omozc&
Jkccqfbh+Phq~bh 9$2/7& Zpaj}~az ki Ofbq}daf}ojo}& ]da Jkf}acpk~b~ Pbjoioj=$2/7=?#&
Gqpp( Ahabfk~& >000& Pa~ohkqz Omabz7 Bf}d~kpkhklojbh Manb}az of J~kzz#Jqh}q~bh
B~}z P~kgaj}z& Of LB^P $Lkhmzco}dz Bf}d~kpkhklojbh ^azab~jd Pbpa~z/ >7::&
Ebappha~( Bm~oaffa& 2?/721>&
& 2?& C}d( Jqh}q~bh Omaf}o}( bfm A}dfkpkho}ojz7 Zbckb bfm
}da ]kflbf Acpo~a& Gkq~fbh ki Bf}d~kpkhklojbh ^azab~jd 14$=/7=?:#1>0&
Cbhhkf( Zabf bfm Pbfmk~b Iqhocbhk Pa~ao~b& >00>& Pbjoioj B~} Foq Zohb7 ]da Pbjoioj
Mocafzokf ki Jkf}acpk~b~ Fa| Wabhbfm B~}z& \ahhofl}kf( Fa| Wabhbfm7 ]a Pbpb
P~azz&
^bckfm( ^kzbffb >00:& La}}ofl Zpajoioj7 Pbjoioj Ibzdokf Bj}oyozc of Bqjehbfm
mq~ofl }da 2??0z& Of Jhk}dofl }da Pbjoioj( am& Jdhk Jkhjdaz}a~( 2?:#>04& Ktik~m7
Na~l&
^kla~z( Lb~}d& 2?&
& 2??>n& Jhk}daz of ]~bmo}okf7 ]da ]bkybhb bfm Eoaeoa bz Zkjobh ]at} bfm
Baz}da}oj Cb~ea~z ki Jqz}kc bfm Omaf}o} of Jkf}acpk~b~ ]kflbf Zkjoa}( Pb~}
OO& Pbjoioj B~}z 97=0#91&
\blfa~( ^k& 2?42& ]da Ofyaf}okf ki Jqh}q~a& Jdojblk bfm Hkfmkf7 Qfoya~zo} ki
Jdojblk P~azz&
\b}zkf( Gbcaz N& 2??0& K}da~ Pakpha Mk K}da~ ]doflz7 Hbcb~jeobf Omaf}oioaz of
Ebofbf}q Zqnmoz}~oj}( Pbpqb Fa| Lqofab& Of Jqh}q~bh Omaf}o} bfm A}dfojo} of }da
Pbjoioj( amz& Gkjahf Hoffaeof bfm Hof Pka~( 2& Dkfkhqhq7 Qfoya~zo} ki Db|boo
P~azz&
\afm}( Bhna~}& 2??&
\aofa~( Bffa}}a N& 2?4?& \d Jhk}d; Jhk}d( Lafma~( bfm Pk|a~ of Kjabfob& Of
Jhk}d bfm Dqcbf Atpa~oafja( amz& Bffa}}a N& \aofa~ bfm Gbfa Zjdfaoma~( ::#&
\bzdofl}kf M&J&7 Zco}dzkfobf Ofz}o}q}okf&
& 2??>& Ofbhoafbnha Pkzzazzokfz7 ]da Pb~bmkt ki Eaapofl#\doha#Loyofl& Na~eaha7
Qfoya~zo} ki Jbhoik~fob P~azz&
_kqfl Hazhoa( Dab}da~ A& 2???& Ofyaf}ofl Dabh}d7 ]~bmo}okf( ]at}ohaz( bfm
Cb}a~fbh Knholb}okf of }da Eoflmkc ki ]kflb& Pd&M& mozz& _k~e Qfoya~zo}(
]k~kf}k& Bff B~nk~7 Qfoya~zo} Coj~kiohcz&
& >00=& Pqzdofl Jdohm~af Qp7 Cb}a~fbh Knholb}okf( Ckma~fo}( bfm Camojofa of
}da Eoflmkc ki ]kflb& Of Lhknbhowb}okf bfm Jqh}q~a Jdbfla of }da Pbjoioj Ozhbfmz( am&
Yoj}k~ob Hkje|kkm( :?0#=2:& Qppa~ Zbmmha ^oya~( Fa| Ga~za7 P~af}oja Dbhh&
PbjoiojB~}z
FZ ykhz& :#1( >00