panama 980 edicion 31

Panama 9°80° AEdition 31

TRAVELCUBITA BOUTIQUE RESORT & SPA

RANDOMLY GOOD

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www.locationpanama.com

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CUBITÁ BOUTIQUE RESORT& SPA

CASA BRUJABREWING CO.

MONUMENTAL

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UP IN THE HILL

RUM ROUTE OF PANAMA

GILBERTO ALEMANCIA

RANDOMLY GOOD PART 7

FROM THE BELL FAMILY TO THE TABLE

CHIRIQUI: LAND OF COFFEE & ADVENTURE

ISLAND PLANTATION

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Panama 9°80° 9

panama’s lifestyle & travel magazine

GENERAL MANAGERIrma Marengo

GRAPHIC DESIGNFalina Pérez de Valverde

SALES EXECUTIVEJorge Sánchez

WRITERSIrma Marengo

Lee Ann Harper

PHOTOGRAPHYIrma Marengo

Gilberto AlemanciaJorge Sánchez

CubitáPEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

CONTACT INFORMATIONPhone: (507)[email protected]


Panama 9°80° es publicada por Avenue A. Publications, Inc.Las opiniones y recomendaciones de los autores y artistas

que aparecen en Panama 9°80° no necesariamente reflejan las opiniones de la empresa. Panama 9°80° no

asume responsabilidad por los productos o servicios que se anuncian en la revista, ni por errores de contenido impreso.

No está permitido reproducir, total o parcialmente en contenido de esta publicación sin previo permiso escrito de Avenue A. Publications, Inc. © 2014 Todos los derechos

reservados.RUC: 1119547-1-564065 D.V. 92

Impreso por Panamericana Formas e Impresos, S.A. quién solo actúa como impresor.

Impreso en Colombia

The name 9°80° is derived from the country’s location on the world map – 9 degrees north of the equator, 80 degrees west of the prime meridian.

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Photo by: IMPhoto courtesy of Cubitá

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CUBITÁ BOUTIQUE RESORT & SPAThe Azuero region is considered to be the cradle of culture in Panama and the town of Chitre boasts almost 300 festivities in different communities year round. In addition, Chitre is a developing commercial town located in close proximity to the new Rio Hato airport and the Panamanian government has heavily invested in local infrastructure like the highway expansion in the area. These were key factors that led Grupo Cubitá to invest and develop in the Chitre region.Cubitá was the name of the pre-Columbian tribe that lived in this region as well as the real name of the river La Villa and the fact is that most of this area’s history is unknown by many for lack of dissemination.

Priscilla Clare Nash, Marketing Manager, tells us that the hotel and the Cubitá experience was conceived to provide the highest quality standards of a luxury hotel while taking into consideration a well-rounded plan that goes far beyond lodging and dining. The concept is that guests have the opportunity to interact with artisans, to learn about history while visiting various sites and to experience a real cultural immersion.

The hotel architecture reflects the local identity, the history, the culture and the folklore of the region and its design was inspired by the traditional colonial towns where the plaza, gazebo and the church were the center of it all. One fascinating fact is that the beautiful roof was built with six hundred thousand handmade vintage tiles, some of them dating back to the early 1900s.

Mr. Ivan Eskildsen, Executive President of Cubitá Group, inspired by one of his travels to Perú, Guatemala, and other destinations known for historical and cultural tourism, decided that Panama should also have a hotel property that would fundamentally express the country’s rich history.

Cubitá Group has finished the first stage of the museum where valuable archeological pieces are exhibited. The second phase of the museum is underway and entails creating an exhibition of Polleras (the national dress) and Diablico (Devils) costumes which consist of an outfit and elaborate masks.

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Close by the pool garden, there’s a press used to extract juice from the sugarcane and also a mud oven used to bake bread and other goods.

In addition to the “museum” experience, Cubitá is hosting a “Junta de embarra” which is a live event based on the local tradition of people gathering to build a house with mud and straw, all in one day. The house will remain there as a permanent exhibition of Panamanian traditions.

There are also plans to reproduce an indigenous ceremonial center in the hotel gardens. The idea is that each corner of the hotel will serve as a source of knowledge allowing guests to get to know more about Panamanian roots.

On the weekends, the hotel will invite artisans to make crafts, guitars, masks and much more so guests not only interact and learn from them but are also able to purchase directly from them.

Guazán: (named after an Indian chief who lived in the region)Guazán is an ecotourism farm located in the highlands of Herrera, in the town of Las Minas at 800 meters above sea level, within El Montuoso, the only remaining forest reserve of the region. The weather at the farm is very pleasant and fresh and the idea is for people to interact with nature. They can go horseback riding, hike to a waterfall, camp on special platforms and enjoy wonderful views of the Gulf of Montijo.

The farm has an organic orchard that supplies the hotel restaurant mixing the eco-with farming. There are future plans to build cabins.

Los Maizales:Cubitá has done an amazing job of carefully tailoring a delicious Panamanian gourmet menu by taking traditional dishes and giving them a special international twist that is simply outstanding, flavorful and creative.

Photo courtesy of Cubitá


Chef Ethel Bartolini is a classically trained Chef by the Cordon Blue School of Lima, Peru. Her love for food was inspired by her northern Peruvian heritage where food was the center of their family life and by the almost 13 years she lived in Italy.

Upon her arrival in Panama she embarked on a gastronomic journey around the country alongside Maria Amelia Pezzotti-Eskildsen, co-owner of the hotel, sampling, exploring and discovering the local food and ingredients.

Besides the creative and delicious Panamanian dishes, the menu offers international delights incorporating local ingredients. One example happens to be the most popular dish on the menu which is the grilled salmon topped with peach-palm (pixbae) pico de gallo, served over steamed potatoes and asparagus over a peach-palm cream. Another international dish with a Panamanian flair is the cheesecake with a cashew crumble base and topped with molasses.

The hotel school:Is an initiative developed with the Center for Executive Development in the Dominican Republic and supported by the Inter-American University of Puerto Rico. This alliance allows Cubitá to include all their staff in the hotel school certification program which provides the proper training needed to achieve exceptional service. In the near future, Cubitá will offer the certification and training program to other venues in the area since as Mr. Eskildsen says, “We have a social commitment to the area and we believe that if we strengthen the destination, we strengthen ourselves”.



Cubitá Tours:Cubitá Tours is in charge of the active part of the Cubitá experience by developing historic, cultural, ecological and adventure tours.

Fabian Obrist, originally from Switzerland and General Manager of Cubitá Tours, tells us that the tours offer such a rewarding experience that goes far beyond observation. They take tourists to the artisan bakeries where they not only observe how the local people make bread in a mud oven, but they have the opportunity to knead, bake and sample the bread themselves. They visit a potter that uses a potter’s wheel powered by his foot and tourists can try to create a pot themselves if they so choose.

Obrist says that since the region has a celebration almost every day, they have created special tours where guests are accompanied by a guide who explains all about the festivity with VIP treatment.

Another fasicinating tour is called Azuero’s Folklore where tourists visit a group of ladies who specialize in the creation of the Pollera and they can see first-hand all of the work that goes into creating the national dress and why it is so expensive (about $10,000 each).

Besides all the historic and cultural tours, Cubitá Tours also offers eco-tours with visits to the Montuoso forest reserve, The Sarigua National Park and to The Cenegón del Mangle where people can observe mangroves and marine birds.

There’s also a mountain bike tour underway.Photo by IM

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Cubitá Villas & Condos:The most exclusive residential development in Chitre sets a new standard of quality of life for the whole region. The development is complemented by the hotel services and the commercial plaza where top businesses and the most prestigious supermarket chain will cater to the community.

“Life is good in the countryside.”

Contact information:(507) [email protected]: La Arena, Chitre, Ave. Roberto Ramirez De Diego (Circunvalacion)

Hotel Amenities:Cable TVSafe boxWiFiAir Conditioning and ceiling fan24 hour room serviceLos Maizales restaurantLa Java Lobby BarSpaEvent room for up to 220 peopleSnack barGymMuseumChapel (Sunday mass at 11:30 a.m.)Shopping mall



CASABRUJABrewing Co.Witch-CRAFT-brewing in Panama

Jonathan Pragnell, originally from the Colon Province of Panama, started brewing beer as a hobby when he was around 21-22 years old while living in the USA. The young engineer worked in logistics for several years and then decided to follow his passion and make a major change in his career. This came about after having a life changing experience while working with the United Nations after the tsunami disaster in Japan.

Photo by: PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY


One day, he wrote an e-mail to his favorite brewery in the world, Brew Dog in Scotland, basically saying that he wanted to be an assistant, cleaning floors, pots, anything for the experience of learning about the brewing business. Two days later they wrote back to him, he was interviewed the next day and that is how Jonathan started as an assistant brewer and later became a brewer on duty. Jonathan worked there for a year and a half and while he was there he started to put together a business plan to fulfill his dream.

By the time he returned to Panama, he was certain of what and how he wanted to do things so he presented his project to a group of friends and investors and they believed in the project. A month later he had already built his team and raised the funds to start the micro-brewery.

While Jonathan worked on designing the brewing area and logistics to ensemble the equipment, his business partner Richo Fernández, creative director of TBWA, gathered a group of talented people to put together the brand image. Alexander Wtdges designed the awesome brand labels and Noel Sanchez assisted in creating the branding legends and content and also contributed by coming up with the name Casa Bruja.

The brewery offers 4 different products:Fula 4.7% (Colloquial for blonde in Spanish):A very classy American full-bodied blonde ale. One of those beers that you can afford to drink one too many and enjoy getting carried away by the flavor and freshness.

Chivo Perro 6.1% (Translated into English: Goat-Dog)Named after his business partner’s goat mascot who eats his dog’s food - it is an inside joke that has taken a fun turn and now the goat even has a twitter page and an Instagram account.



This is the most popular beer right now; it is considered an IPA by its bitterness, although its bitterness levels are low to help introduce Panamanians to more interesting and more bitter beers.

Chivo Perro has tropical aromas coming from the hops, a lot of passion fruit and mango. It has a good body with a caramel color. They use Abbey Malt to prepare this particular beer and Casa Bruja imports all the malt from Germany. They use 12 varieties of malt and 14 varieties of hops.

Sir Francis 5.5%:Jonathan and Richo are both very fond of their hometown Colon and its traditions and history. That is why they decided to name the beer Sir Francis after Privateer Sir Francis Drake who raided and relentlessly attacked the Spaniards and their colonies in the region - old tales of the pirates of the Caribbean.

This particular beer has an elegant flavor and aroma, a perfect amount of bitterness and a reddish color. They practice “dry hopping” meaning they add dry hops to the beer at different stages of fermentation creating interesting aromas like melon.

Talingo 8.1%Named after the popular and freaky bird “the great tailed grackle”. Talingo, as its name implies, is a dark beer and its color comes from the toasted malt. It contains cocoa from Bocas del Toro and its sweetness comes from the lactose. It is a rich full beer with an extraordinary flavor.

Beside bars and restaurants, Casa Bruja sells malt to home brewers promoting and facilitating the artisan beer culture in Panama.


If you have a dream, go for it, life is full of flavor!

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MONUMENTAL!


San Francisco de Asis Church


Lazaro Gago and Rosario Salinero de Gago arrived in Panama from Spain in 1951 within 8 months of each other. They met while working at La Byskaina Supermarket in Santa Ana. They fell in love at the Cathedral’s plaza while listening to beautiful open air municipal band concerts.

In September 1964 they opened Supermarket Panama, named in honor of the country they chose to live in.

In 1975 they changed the name of the Supermarket to Supermercados Gago becoming the largest supermarket chain in Panama with over 1,600 employees.

During the 1989 U.S. invasion, the supermarkets were looted by crowds and the business suffered tremendously leading the family to sell the business to what is known today as Super 99 to avoid going into bankruptcy.

In 1997 they embarked in the fruit, vegetable and perishable goods supplying business, opening Importadora Exportadora Gago and later in 2011 they opened La Casa del Jamon (The House of Ham), all renowned and successful businesses.

The Gago family has always been involved in projects to benefit Panama’s inhabitants; they are famous for their catchy TV commercials emphasizing family values, education and the country’s identity and are active participants in any event that would highlight family values.

Ricardo Gago, son of Mr. Lazaro (R.I.P.) and Mrs. Rosario, just like his parents always acted and felt as if his family were descendants of generations born in the Panamanian Isthmus.

Ricardo Gago Salinero, author of the “XXI Century Collector”, is not your average day to day man. On numerous occasions the Panamanian government has awarded him for his contributions to Panamanian culture. Throughout the years, he has donated over 1,000 pieces to the Panama Canal Museum becoming one of its most important benefactors.

The Smithsonian Institute in Washington held an exhibition called “Panamanian Passages” featuring Gago’s personal collection along with pieces he donated to the Panama Canal Museum. The exhibition was a complete success with over 400,000 visitors.

This year The Mud Island Museum at the 38th Memphis in May International Festival held a magnificent exhibition featuring all the pieces from his 2012 and 2014 books.

Gago, current President of the non-profit Committee of Friends of the Casco Antiguo Churches (CAICA), has undertaken the monumental task of rescuing, renovating and providing maintenance for 5 of the most important and historic landmark churches in Panama, all built in the 1600s: the Metropolitan Cathedral, San Jose, La Merced, San Francisco de Asis and Oratorio San Felipe Neri.



Oratorio San Felipe Neri


The committee is actively raising funds to keep the renovation project alive by hosting concerts, selling books and religious items and seeking benefactors.

Recently we participated in a private tour lead by none other than the walking history encyclopedia, Ricardo Gago Salinero. Gago passionately walked us through the 5 churches explaining every single aspect of their history, architecture, renovations, challenges, needs, budgets and all the work that goes into this enormous task.

We were honored and enlightened by the experience but most of all we would like to express our gratitude and admiration to Mr. Gago and his team for rescuing and preserving the Panamanian culture for generations to come.

Like Mr. Gago says “God will provide.”

For more information about the project and donations contact:(507) 271-0044(507) [email protected]/PTYCAICA

Bank account information: (Donations)Banco GeneralCatedral Metropolitana Cta. No. 0343010891005Parroquia San Jose Cta. No. 0343010890987Oratorio San Felipe de Neri Cta. No. 0343010883758San Francisco de Asis Cta. No. 0343010891437Iglesia La Merced Cta. No. 0343010890990


Mr. Gago in action!

San Felipe Neri

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UP IN THE HILLMy first visit to Up in The Hill took place about 4 years ago. A friend from California invited me to take a hike from Isla Bastimentos´ main dock all the way to the pristine Wizard beach. On the way back we stopped at Up in The Hill for some refreshments and the most amazing, mind-blowing coconut covered chocolate truffles that I have ever had!

Since then I have set my priorities straight and every time I travel to Bocas del Toro I must get my truffles from Up in The Hill, even if a visit to Isla Bastimentos was not on the agenda.

Photo by: IM

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Sometimes my chocolate transactions seemed to be almost illegal. I’d hire a water taxi and go on a 15 minute boat ride from Isla Colon, the main island, with a cooler on my lap. Javier would be at the dock waiting with my order and put it inside the cooler. The first time, I noticed that my boat driver was nervous about the transaction. I opened the cooler and was hesitant about sharing my treasure but I gave him a truffle anyway and said “this is what we came here for”.

Nowadays, you can get Up in the Hill’s products at Super Gourmet Bocas del Toro and Super Gourmet Panama City so the suspicious boat rides are all in the past.

Javier, a former MTV producer from Argentina, says that it all started when he discovered the tropics on his first trip to Brazil when he was just 16 years old. He was amazed by the colors of the water, as well as the tranquility of the sea and he set a goal that one day he would live in such a place.

Javier traveled for many years looking for that special place and in 1996 he visited Bocas del Toro and was attracted by its Caribbean feeling, pristine waters and lush nature. He finally decided to settle in Bocas and was lucky enough to purchase the land for his project.

Jeanette, originally from Scotland, came to Panama in 2001 to work at the PROMAR foundation as a volunteer for a turtle conservation program in Playa Larga, Isla Bastimentos, where Javier was the project director. They got together and after the turtle conservation project, they started working on their life project. In 2002 they started planting on their purchased land, gathered wood to build a house and they even camped on the farm for 3 months in order to really get to know it and to plan where they wanted to build the house. It took them approximately 2 months to build their house.


A little while later, Jeanette who has a BSc in biology and chemistry, started to study and understand more and more about the plants on the farm as well as coconut oil and created the Pure Tree natural body product line made from coconut oil, plants, flowers and fruits from their organic garden. They also started working with cocoa making pure chocolate from the trees on their farm and selling it on the main island, Isla Colon.

By the time they had their first child, it was becoming a bit harder to take the products from Up in The Hill to the main island. One day Javier was down at the beach talking to a couple of girls who were surfing and he told them about his farm, the natural body products sold there as well as having lemonade and brownies. The girls came up and they were the first customers, and that is how they decided to open their shop.

Since their home is far from the town and it is a bit complicated to travel back and forth every day, Javier and Jeanette homeschool their 3 children who speak English, Spanish and Guari-guari (Bocas del Toro creole, a hybrid tongue of English and Spanish with elements of the Guami and Ngöbe Bugle natives). The children have a teacher from the USA and Javier takes care of their Spanish education.

Their first son’s name is Theo influenced by the genus name of the cacao tree, Theobroma, which is derived from the Greek roots Theo which means God and Broma which means food “food of gods”.

The 4 hectare farm was originally a cattle farm, so Javier and Jeanette took it upon themselves to plant all kinds of fruits, trees and plants using permaculture, working with natural elements such as nitrogen and compost.

There are 3 different kinds of cocoa: Criollo (native), Forastero (foreign) and Trinitario, a hybrid between Criollo and Forastero originating in Trinidad Tobago. Trinitario’s fruit is really sweet and very resistant to disease while Criollo is the best cocoa seed, tastier but more difficult to find.

Shade from other trees like banana trees and balsa trees offer the optimal temperature for cocoa trees to grow. The cocoa fruit grows right at the trunk and takes about 2 to 3 months to ripen. During the harvesting season, a tree can produce around 40 to 50 fruits. Inside each fruit there are about 60 to 70 seeds.


Photo by: IM

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Up in The Hill produces approximately 1 ton of cocoa per year and, in addition, they produce coconut oil and other fruits, leaves, spices and vegetables such as pineapple, pejibaye, pumpkin, coffee, nutmeg, avocado, jackfruit, tamarind, passion fruit (which happens to be a vine), chaya (tree spinach), ayahuaska (used by Shamans), papaya, cilantro, lemons, cinnamon, ylang-ylang (used to make Chanel #5), garlic leaves and a variety of wood for construction that comes from their reforestation project.

Up in the Hill offers a guided tour around the farm where you not only get to learn about all these trees and their qualities but also you get to experience the cocoa production process from the tree to the table. At the end of the tour Javier and Jeanette prepare a nice picnic where you get to sample fruits and chocolate. All products are readily available for sale including hand painted t-shirts.

In addition to the natural products and the coffee shop, Up in The Hill offers two eco-friendly solar powered cabins with a kitchen and a wonderful ocean view.

Up in the Hill is an organic farm located on the highest hill on Bastimentos Island, Bocas del Toro. A visit to the farm and especially the coffee shop is a must. It is one of those rare cool places only found when creative and visionary people pour their efforts, ideas and love into a project so others have the luxury of experiencing great products.

For more information contact:(507)6607-8962 / (507)[email protected]

Photo by: IM

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In 1908, Spanish immigrant Don Jose Varela Blanco founded the first sugar mill in the recently established Republic of Panama. In 1936 he started distilling sugarcane juice to produce spirits as recommended by his 3 eldest sons, José Manuel, Plinio & Julio


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Upon arrival in the quaint little town of Pese, we were greeted by our tour guide at the original home of the Varela Family, a colonial style house that serves as a memorabilia museum where you can get acquainted with the story of the Varela family and how everything started.

The first step is a visit to the actual San Isidro Estate, named after the patron saint of farmers.

Celestino, a local country man, picks us up in an ox-driven wagon and takes us to the sugarcane field where we get to sample the sweetest and freshest sugarcane while he explains the harvesting process of the sugarcane, its origins and green practices within the ranch.

We move to the next step where we get to see firsthand, the collection, peeling, fermentation and distilling processes.

At the cellars, our guide explains how the rum is aged in oak barrels (previously used to store whisky/bourbon in the USA) using the Solera method - “a process for aging liquids by fractional blending in such a way that the finished product is a mixture of ages, with the average age gradually increasing as the process continues over many years”.

The cellars remain closed to keep the room temperature fresh and they are monitored by the master blender who evaluates the aging process based on the established standards of color, flavor and even the presence of alcohol.

RUM ROUTE OF PANAMA an insider view of Hacienda San Isidro, home of Ron Abuelo.


We return to the visitor center where we watch a short and informative movie about the history of rum and finally we get to sample the 4 varieties of rum: Abuelo Añejo, Abuelo 7 Year, Abuelo 12 Year and the house signature rum Abuelo Centuria 30 Year.

We start our tasting with the youngest rum and move along to the oldest rum gradually learning about the characteristics of the rum and its evolution through time and maturity.

The younger the rum, the higher the proof and the lighter the color and the glass coating clears faster. As the rum ages, the tannins in the barrels help the rum develop flavors such as molasses, cinnamon, brown sugar, fruits and the alcohol presence is reduced becoming smoother and more refined hence a thicker and slower glass coating and a darker amber to brownish color. Ron Abuelo is full-bodied, smooth on the palate with toasted and mature notes coming from the distinctive wood barrels.

The fundamental qualities to consider when tasting rum are:

1) Visual: color, density and texture.

2) Smell: differentiating aromas.

3) Taste: experience the different flavors accentuated by the tannins and age of the rum.

Rum enthusiasts recommend that you drink your Abuelo straight or on the rocks, with the exception of Abuelo Añejo which also makes a great cocktail rum.

The original distillery was called La Herrerana. Due to the town’s growth during the late 1960s and early 1970s, the distillery has moved to what today is known as “Hacienda San Isidro”. At the time Hacienda San Isidro was founded, it was the most modern sugar factory in Central America with an investment over 4 million dollars.


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Connoisseurs prefer to drink Abuelo 12 Year in small private gatherings with friends and family and insist that Abuelo Centuria should be reserved for quality time alone or for very special private / intimate occasions with very good company.

Ron Abuelo has won multiple awards in international rum competitions and their price ranges from the youngest under $10.00 a bottle to the oldest at $122.00 a bottle.

Abuelo Centuria 30 Year was introduced in 2008 to commemorate the 100 years of the family estate.

If you are traveling to Panama, include this tour on your “must do” list, it is well worth the visit.

For more information about the tour contact:[email protected] (507) 6670-8425 / (507) 6550-4498

Back when the Varela Hermanos originatied , the sugarcane was carried by ox-driven wagons. That tradition continues today.Varela Hermanos exports Ron Abuelo to 35 countries in the world, their rums have won multiple awards and are sought after by the most discerning rum enthusiasts.


Photo by IM

RANDOMLYGOOD part 7

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Villa PalmaOpulent and extravagant, Villa Palma is a restaurant created by people who are serious about cooking and for people who know how to eat!

Venezuelan Executive Chef Alfredo Villegas brings sophistication and creativity to the table, the dishes were delicate and full of flavor, the service was impeccable and the atmosphere was fun and inviting.

It is quite a treat when you read a menu and you feel like having it all!

We started our evening with the tempura tuna tataki, served with a wasabi emulsion, teriyaki, a mango salad, avocado and wanton strips - well executed. This was followed by the fantastic lobster with a pickled vegetable mayonnaise, beets, seaweed salad, pears and pancetta.

The lobster and mushroom ravioli served with a truffle-saffron sauce, ham chips and pine roasted ginger was outstanding and the reason why we will return over and over again.

The Smoked Angus veal, served with croutons, marrow, hollandaise sauce and fine herb vegetables was so good we were delighted.

We ended the evening on a refined and delicate note and ordered the pistachio Sable Breton, with a red berry infusion, mascarpone foam and the most delicious mint ice cream. Treat yourself to the good things in life.

Contact information:Hours: Monday to Saturday from 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.Location: 1st Street, Casco Antiguo(507)303-1414www.villapalmapanama.com

Golden Unicorn – Dim SumThe Chinese community in Panama has contributed immensely to our melting pot culture. Chinese food is readily available in every neighborhood and for many years The Golden Unicorn has continued to be one of the top choices for Dim Sum.

The 4th floor of the Evergreen building has hosted hordes of people, sometimes having to wait in line in order to enjoy The Golden Unicorn´s famous Dim Sum. Bite-sized delights are pushed around the restaurant on carts and the customers can choose whichever dish they like while seated at their tables.

In a country where the brunch culture is practically reduced to a few holidays, Dim Sum at The Golden Unicorn is the year round equivalent.

The key to ordering Dim Sum is to know what is popular and also what the favourite dishes of the Chinese clientele are - you may be pleasantly surprised at how good they are.


A parade of carts rolling by in all directions offers patrons a large variety of tiny and not so tiny delicacies from which to choose. Sometimes it can be challenging to stop the cart that serves the food that you would like have because you have to constantly check out carts passing by so you may have to exercise a bit of patience and perseverance.

Practically every table orders the popular Cantonese style Siu Mai, a dumpling filled with ground pork and mushrooms. It is often served with Siu Mai the Ha Kao, also called shrimp bonnet because of its shape, which is one of the most delicate and delicious items on the menu and many say that this is a dish that a Dim Sum chef´s skills are judged upon.

When sampling the traditional and popular dishes, a must is the baked pork Ham Pao, a steamed bun filled with sweet and sour pork. It is so beautiful and at the same time so delicious you may think it is a present for you.

Another cart stops by and to our delight it contains treats for grownups, so we order the lobster tails, roasted pork, roasted duck and the pea and corn dumplings - it’s good to be the king!

We highly recommend the ginger tripe “librillo” although it may be an acquired taste and may require an adventurous palate. Those who possess the ability to enjoy it, rate it as one of the best of the almost 50 dishes served at The Golden Unicorn Dim Sum.

If deep fried is your weak spot then you must order the salt and pepper eggplant and the shrimp balls, both are decadent and full of flavor.

You may think that we are crazy to order so many things but this is how it is done and it is what makes eating dim sum so enjoyable.

The best way to survive this Cantonese feast is to end your visit with the delicious house tea and then go home and go to sleep!

Contact information: Dim Sum Hours:Monday to Friday from 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.Saturday and Sunday from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.Location: Evergreen building, 4th floor, San Francisco.Tel: (507) 226-3838

Photo by IM

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Las Brujas de Cachiche:The Peruvian gastronomy is undoubtedly the richest exponent of all Latin American cuisine and Brujas de Cachiche, a restaurant chain that originated in Peru, can be considered the Ambassador of Peruvian cuisine and culture in Panama.

Maître D Ricardo Sarmiento walked us through the best dishes on their menu and opened a kaleidoscope of flavors and educated us about the history and regions represented in each dish.

Shrimp stuffed “Causa” served with avocado and eggs is a traditional Peruvian dish with a delicious and modern approach. This dish became popular for its origins when Lima ladies would serve food to tired and hungry soldiers with mashed potatoes and whatever else they had available and at the time of serving they would say: “por la causa” meaning “for the cause”.

Following the causa we had one of Peru’s most popular dishes, the ceviche, the catch of the day cooked in lime juice, served with red onions, sweet potatoes and corn. It was well executed with delicate and yet powerful flavors. We were told that the colder the temperature at which the ceviche is prepared and served, the better the flavor.

We tried the most amazing northern dish called Arroz con pato (rice & duck), which was rice cooked in duck fat, with carrots, bell peppers and petit pois, and covered with duck meat. It was so rich and flavorful that it immediately became a favorite.

Another instant favorite was a dish influenced by both the Chinese-Peruvian and the Afro-Peruvian heritage, the Tenderloin served with Tacu Tacu rice. Sautéed tender juicy and smoky chunks of beef cooked to perfection, served with Tacu Tacu rice (rice & beans fried and kneaded by hitting and pressing the rice with the base of a spoon which makes a sound like tahkuh, tahkuh and repeating the process until they roll it and serve it). This dish bursts with flavors and aromas and when it is served, it is drizzled with olive oil and topped with an over easy egg. Spectacular!

Photo by IM

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We were invited to go to the bar to take a personalized Pisco Sour class and we not only learned the best recipe for a Pisco Sour but we also learned about the different kinds of Pisco and their uses. It was a very fun experience and when we finished the class we received a diploma.

Back at the table we sampled a dessert trilogy containing Alfajor del Obispo which is two sweet round biscuits joined together by a caramel fudge (dulce de leche), Suspiro (sigh), a traditional dessert made with whole milk and sugar until it thickens and turns a caramel color and topped with merengue and cinnamon, and a very delicate rice pudding.

The restaurant’s name was inspired by anecdotes of a white magic witch who was expelled from Lima for practicing witchcraft and moved to the southern town of Cachiche where she continued to practice white witchcraft curing and replenishing aristocrats from Lima who travelled all the way to the south to obtain her services.

Contact information:Hours:Monday to Friday from 12:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.Sunday from 12:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.Location: 56th Street and Abel Bravo Street, ObarrioTel: (507) 394-7305

Madrigal:Good food, good atmosphere and good vibes!

Over the past 9 years we have reviewed over 200 restaurants and we have encountered all kinds of chefs, cooks, personalities and culinary approaches but it´s not very often that we come across an artist in the true sense of the word.

Photo by IM


The moment you walk into Madrigal you know that something special is cooking and every single aspect has been carefully, tastefully and cleverly thought through to make your visit an experience to remember, warm and casual yet elegant.

Reading the menu is fun and engaging since Madrigal has a way with words and, of course, he describes his wonderful food in such a way that you feel as if you are holding a treasure map in your hands with all of the anticipation, sense of adventure and hunger to explore new and unknown territories.

We decided to start the evening with the sea bass ceviche served with a passion fruit sorbet and coconut foam, perfectly executed, a delicate and flawless combination of flavors.

Continuing the adventure, we ordered the “papas revolconas” with a tender and flavorful garlic octopus, served with a delicious Caribbean mojo sauce.

One of the most delicious and fun dishes we tried that night was the Socarrat rice. A crispy crust of seafood rice in calamari ink that is toasted in a paella pan. Simply spectacular! We scraped and scraped the pan until there was not a single grain of rice left. A+ for the rice, C- for our table manners.

Just when you thought nothing could top that, we were served pork Canelones, delicate and so flavorful that they fall in the comfort food category so if you are feeling blue one day, this is the cure!

When the dessert menu reads “sweet, but not as sweet as a kiss”…you know you are in for a treat. A friend of a friend had raved about “Pan Perdido”, she said that when she goes to Madrigal she makes sure to order two. That is a bold statement so we knew that we had to try it and we were not disappointed. This cream soaked pastry topped with Ron Abuelo infused chocolate sauce is indeed so good that just like our food informer, we wanted to order the second one but we restrained ourselves and ordered the “homage to The Anton Valley” instead. It was a beautifully presented visual oasis bursting with chocolate, cream cheese, beet and strawberry ice cream - incredibly decadent.

There is nothing more pleasing than noticing pride in the staff. They are like walking food encyclopedias and eagerly and enthusiastically assisted us with the menu explaining in detail about the dish preparations and how the ingredients are used. This can only be a reflection of the man behind it all: Andrés Madrigal. A character, a superb cook, a photographer an eloquent and engaging blogger and so much more; he is full of energy and passionate about food

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serving up very straight forward “in your face” world cuisine enhanced by local ingredients and inspired by his travels.

Madrigal also offers a different kind of experience in his “Atelier” - a multicultural and multifunctional space that serves as a cooking (cocktail and wine) school and where you can also host cooking parties, events and much more.

Information:Hours: Monday to Saturday from 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.Location: Casco Antiguo, Avenue A and 5th Street.Tel: (507) 211-1956www.andresmadrigal.com

Gula (English: Gluttony) Eat – Music – Drink – Art! These words are the emblem of Gula and certainly a reflection of the carefully groomed, cool, casual-smart and trendy atmosphere.

The combination of different elements like wooden tables, leather sofas, brick walls and polished concrete floors give the place character and warmth with a hint of an industrial edge.

The first thing that catches your eye when you walk into Gula is a huge library-style shelf filled with art and memorabilia with everything from electronic items to books and games - but wait!!! What’s that, is that the bathroom door? Indeed, it is part of the shelf wall, how fun and clever!

Photo by IM


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Chef Edy Acedo Stanziola who studied the culinary arts in Argentina and has worked in the best restaurants in Panama, tells us that the concept of his menu is based on the fact that beyond foams and molecular, people want to go out and eat real food. He believes in mixing elements like sweet salty and spicy.

We started with a generous portion of the sweet and spicy wings, the perfect balance of both worlds, followed by the tuna tartar, a spin on the traditional dish served with cream cheese and unrefined whole sugarcane and an avocado and wasabi purée.

The Italian meatballs are rich and full of flavor, one of those dishes that scream “Grandma” even if it is not your own. Tender pork loin served with a tomato fondue and topped with mozzarella and parmesan cheese.

The traditional polenta is covered with a savory shredded steak “ropa vieja” cooked in a tomato, bell pepper and petit pois stew and served with parmesan cheese and a goat cheese sauce.

Any carnivore would be delighted with the tender and juicy short ribs served on top of an exotic coconut and plantain purée, fried shallots and pickled jalapenos.

We ended our visit with the mind-blowing “sweet coma” - a homemade brownie served with chocolate covered bacon (yes you read correctly, bacon!), a potato chip and chocolate brittle, pecan crumble, Bocas del Toro cocoa nibs, ice cream and caramel.

Say no more…when are we coming back?

Contact information:Hours: Monday to Friday from 12:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.Location: Costa del Este, entrance to Corredor SurTel: (507) [email protected]

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FROM THE BELL FAMILY TO YOUR TABLE

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The who is who of the top Panamanian kitchens know the name Dioselina very well.

We sat down with her to discover the secrets of “the chef’s garden”.

“Dioselina, as many people know me, is actually a team of people including my husband Guillermo, my sons Henry, Jean and my staff.

My husband has always been involved in the farming process; he is the investigator, he is in charge of the production and applies all the technology at hand to produce high quality products to satisfy our select clientele.

I work with him and take care of the logistics, the personalized customer service, administration and marketing.

We started experimenting with hydroponics in 2008 and little by little we established ourselves as “Productos Hiropónicos de Boquete”, also known as hidro-organic because our products are environmentally friendly and free of pesticides.

Before we branched into the hydroponic products, we started producing orchard seeds for Boquete farmers, but at some point because of the real estate hype, many of our customers sold their land or started to grow their own seeds. This led us to investigate other methods of production and that is how the lettuce production was born.

Today we offer a variety of lettuces, herbs, edible flowers, micro-herbs and using the same methods we can also produce other products such as cucumbers, strawberries, tomatoes and more.

Our farming method comprises the use of water, coconut fiber, substrates, “perlita” and vermicomposting among other practices that allow us to be environmentally friendly.

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We supply approximately 52 restaurants in the whole country including the Rey Supermarket Chain, Riba Smith, Importadora y Exportadora Hermanos Gago, Inmobiliaria Don Antonio, y Cerro Punta, S.A.

Our micro-herbs are coveted by chefs, they are the artists and innovators and we facilitate the means and the raw material so they can continue to create wonderful dishes. We do grow exclusive products for chefs who make special requests.


The main reason this company exists is to satisfy our customers. They are very special to us and this drives us to continue to strive to fulfill all their needs”.

For more information contact:(507) [email protected]

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Here’s a list of some of the most popular activities in the province of Chiriqui. Make sure to ask your hotel front desk for more details.

CANOPY TOUR (Zip Line)Boquete Tree Trek Canopy Tour takes you on a zip line of 3 kilometers in total length, divided into 12 different zip line cables. You will glide through the trees and encounter an unknown world… a fascinating perspective of life that you’d never believe existed. This is a tour traversing a cloud forest of century-old trees and waterfalls, where at any time you may encounter fog and the gentle rain we call bajareque.

COFFEE CUPPING TOUR RIO CRISTAL:Rio Cristal Farm is a unique plantation with different varieties of coffee located at an altitude of 1,700 meters. The tour explains how the flavors of nuts, fruits or flowers are developed in the coffee bean, how processing and roasting affect the flavor, and how to recognize a good tasting coffee. The tour includes a professional style coffee cupping to sample coffees that have won national and international awards.

COFFEE TOUR “ LA MILAGROSA”:The coffee farm La Milagrosa produces small quantities of specialty coffees that are exported exclusively to Asia, Europe and the US. The famous Geisha coffee, which sells for record high prices around the world, is one of the eight different varieties of coffee produced at this farm. The owner of the farm, Mr. Tito, is one of the most respected growers of 100% organic coffee in the country. Following the tour of the farm, guests may purchase samples of these fine coffees.

FINCA LERIDA COFFEE TOUR:Finca Lerida is one of the oldest coffee estates in Chiriqui, founded in 1922. The tour of this historic property follows the journey of the coffee from bean to cup, from production to processing and packaging.

CHIRIQUI: The Land of Coffee & Adventure

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Photo by IM

CALDERA HOT SPRINGS & PETROGLYPHSWhen you are ready to relax there is a place on the way to Boquete that is famous for its natural hot springs which are renowned for their healing properties. The temperature in each hot water pool ranges from 38°C - 46°C (100° F- 114° F). What travelers like most about this place is its peacefulness. Most of the time, you will have all four pools to yourself, or at least one for your entire group.

The petroglyphs are found on a private farm very close to the town of Caldera. All the markings, drawings and inscriptions are carved on one single rock and depict a variety of animals, spheres and indistinguishable objects. It is unknown when or by whom the petroglyphs were made, but it is believed that they date back hundreds of years and are the work of local indigenous people. Thepetroglyphs are certainly mysterious, making it worthwhile to pass by during your visit to the Caldera hot springs.

ROCKCLIMBING TOUR“El Gunko” is what the indigenous people of the area call this strange and appealing volcanic stone formation. It is 13.1 meters high and, apart from its unique beauty, offers the perfect conditions for a fast and easy climb for every nature lover.Rock climbers with previous experience will have 3 hours to climb any number of routes of their own choice. For those new to rock climbing, different routes will be suggested taking into account physical ability and age.

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ISLAND TOURS IN THE GULF OF CHIRIQUI Visit a tropical island where you can choose to lie on the beach, snorkel a bit, swim in crystal clear waters, watch wildlife underneath the rainforest canopy, relax in a hammock or play around on the white sand beaches. There is something for everyone in this off-the-beaten-path destination!

THE THREE WATERFALLS HIKEThis tour is a half day guided hike up the mountains in the rainforest of Chiriqui. Along the way you will see three beautiful waterfalls, as well as birds, orchids, plants, flowers and animals that are typical of the tropical rainforest. This hike has a moderate degree of difficulty that requires theparticipant to be physically fit, and includes some long ascents.


BARU VOLCANO HIKING TOURAt 3,475meters (11,400 feet), the Baru Volcano is Panama’s highest point. The trek to the top of this volcano is an adventure for the fit and adventurous only. You will encounter 4 different types of forest, and if the weather permits, you can see both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea from the peak of this volcano.

BOQUETE PANORAMIC TOURDuring this 3 hour tour you will enjoy lovely panoramic views of Boquete. The natural beauty, the spring like climate and the abundance of birds will make you fall in love with this special region of Panama.

HOWLER MONKEY TOURThis tour will allow you to see our famous Chorcha Monkey Reserve, with amazing howler monkeys in an indigenous community environment. Enjoy the beauty of these intelligent monkeys as you find yourself surrounded by nature in this unforgettable experience.

SPA TREATMENTS AND DAY PACKAGESBoquete’s natural beauty and fresh air invite you to relax and unwind. And if you are in search of something special, in Boquete you will also be able to nurture your body and soul at some of Panama’s best spas.

PREMIUM HORSEBACK RIDING IN CALDERADuring this horseback riding tour you will cross rivers and small streams, encounter beautiful landscapes and admire the Baru Volcano from a very special perspective. At the end of the trip you will arrive at a lookout point with panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains and serene valleys blanketed by lush rainforests. From here you will be able to observe the Pacific Ocean, Chiriqui’s lowlands and the Baru Volcano, all at the same time. Some say the rainforest scenery is the main attraction of the horseback riding tour in Caldera.

Photo by Jorge Sanchez


Take a guided tour or rent a bike and go exploring on the countless paths of the Chiriqui highlands. From challenging ascents to flat trails, there are plenty of choices with breathtaking scenery along the way.

BOQUETE MOUNTAIN BIKING

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BIRD WATCHING TOURThe trails of Finca Lerida are ecological paths that lead you through the coffee plantation and tropical forest of Boquete. This is the most accessible region of Chiriqui’s highlands where the beautiful Quetzal bird can be seen thanks to the conservation of the forest and the “Aguacatillo” tree that provides the Quetzal with its favorite fruit. Most of these trails go deep inside La Amistad International Park where more than 500 species of American tropical birds can be found.

CANGILONES CANYON TOUR There’s no better way to spend a day and cool off than at a scenic river with a dramatic canyon and huge boulders! This natural rock formation has been carved out by the river and is now the perfect water playground.

CERRO PUNTA TOURThis scenic tour takes you to the other side of the volcano, where you will see beautiful mountain views, hillsides covered with vegetable crops, horse stables and rocky streams. You’ll visit an orchid garden, an animal refuge and an archaeological site.


ISLAND PLANTATION

This beautiful beachfront retreat offers jaw-dropping views of the turquoise Caribbean ocean, golden sand and the lush jungle.

Island Plantation is the creation of Herolf Andersen and Chris Bybee who discovered this amazing spot on a bicycle ride to Bluff Beach during a weekend holiday. At that time they were living in Panama City after having moved from Costa Rica where they had owned a very successful hotel, restaurant and bar for many years.

This hotel is primarily for people who want to get away from stress, hang out, eat great food, drink good wine, embrace nature and relax in an elegant but casual atmosphere.


The rooms are comfortable and spacious with natural wood and a stylish décor. Each room has a front porch with incredible ocean views, an al fresco bathroom and a private back terrace overlooking the tropical gardens where you can spy on the stars at night.

Herolf and Chris were very much involved in the construction and design of the hotel and run the hotel following the highest standards and paying complete attention to detail. Herolf is a hotelier by profession having worked for the prestigious Ritz Carlton chain and has a passion for all that being a hotelier entails.

The perfect complement for a great hotel is a succulent cuisine and Nicole and Martin do an outstanding job managing all aspects of food and beverage.

A mouthwatering 3 course dinner menu is served by candlelight at the terrace restaurant and they also serve a casual but delicious lunch at the beach bar.

The beach bar is famous for its coveted Saturday Argentinian barbecues with amazing DJ music and the best cocktails ever! If you are only going to be in Bocas del Toro for one day and that day happens to be a Saturday, look no further as this is the place to be!

This eco-friendly hotel is powered 100% by solar energy; they learned to work with nature and use permaculture techniques. Herolf and Chris actively work in turtle conservation and during the turtle nesting season the beach bar closes before the sun sets and they sometimes prepare intimate Tiki torch dinners for guests by the ocean.

The service at Island Plantation is so personalized that most of the guests leave as friends.

Photo by: IM


“We want people to be comfortable and go barefoot. People can come to dinner wearing a t-shirt if they want, this is their vacation - there is no stuffiness. This is the beach we want you to be as comfortable as you can be”.

There are expansion plans underway and they are planning to build 20 rooms on the 22 acre property complemented by a swimming pool, manicured gardens, jungle trails with steps, staircases and yoga platforms.

In the near future as the hotel expands, the restaurant will offer more choices from a small but delicious à la carte menu as well as daily specials.

“Part of our philosophy is to provide the best quality and service we can. Why should people have to go all the way to Bali, Indonesia or the Far East to experience beautiful places when the backdrop is right here?”

Island Plantation is located in Bluff Beach just 7 km from downtown Isla Colon.

It is barefoot elegance here!

Contact information:(507)6612-7798reservations@islandplantationbocas.comwww.islandplantationbocas.com

Photo by: IM

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Gilberto was born in Kuna Yala* in the village of Carti Sugdub (meaning Crab Island), with a population of around 1200 inhabitants.

In the 1980s he moved to Paraiso in Panama City, where his grandfather used to live and work for the U.S. Government in the Canal Zone and that is why besides speaking Kuna and Spanish he is a fluent English speaker. “I used to wake up to the sounds of the large ships crossing the Canal”.

Back in the early ‘90s Gilberto received an ecotourism scholarship sponsored by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute; he was part of the first graduating class of specialized ecotourism guides in Panama.

Gilberto had the opportunity to work with ecotourism pioneer Walter McGowen in Centro de Aventuras, initially guiding groups from Spain. They were the first ecotourism company to tour the Chargres River, setting the trend and opening the path for future tour operators. They also offered scientific tours for students from the USA.

By the end of the ‘90s he started working for the IPAT (today ATP, Tourism Authority) under the leadership of Cesar Tribaldos and supported by his friend Pinky Van Der Hans. Today Gilberto continues to work with ATP and he is in charge of all the Press and FAM trips promoting Panama as a country. Normally you will see him hanging out with the crew from National Geographic, Discovery Channel, Travel News, fashion magazines like Marie Claire, food and adventure magazines and big tour operators from Europe. “I promote Panama as a whole, of course I also promote my Kuna Culture, the Ngöbes and the 7 indigenous cultures in Panama. I don’t work for a company, I work for my country”.

GILBERTO ALEMANCIA

The Native American of the XXI Century

Photo by Gilberto Alemancia

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Gilberto is also the director in charge of logistics for Global Works in Panama which is a student exchange program based in Colorado that is involved in social work, helping the community and doing adventure tourism. “We develop projects for Kunas, Ngöbes and farmers”.

San Blas (Commercial name of Kuna Yala*) past and present “During the time I was the president of the tourism committee of the Kuna General Congress, we were evaluating how the tourism development was going to be handled and created some regulations because we started to have some issues. Before that, people were free to do whatever they pleased and there were no boundaries.

Back in the day, it was expensive to travel by airplane to San Blas so we mainly had tourists who were educated and very respectful to our culture. They were interested in ecotourism and culture and had a very low impact on the environment.Now that the road has been opened, internal tourism is developing and the tourism in Kuna Yala* has completely changed because international tourism is not the same as national tourism. Previously people were more respectful and now we are dealing with chaos tourism due to lack of planning. We never thought that small islands would be packed with people leaving a tremendous impact on nature.

95% of local tourists come to use the beach and to drink beer and only 5% of local tourists are interested in our culture. The economic factor influences my people and as long as they get money they may not care about the impact on the environment. We have to create new regulations; it is not that I don’t want people to come, but we have to establish how we do things. We have 365 islands, 49 inhabited communities (40 on the islands and 9 on the mainland), and the rest are boulders. How about if we diversify so we reduce the impact on individual islands?

Previously people involved in tourism would travel by canoe, now I can’t begin to tell you how many motorboats we have. There are families that have up to 4 boats and these motors impact the marine life.

I respect the Kuna General Congress and I’m sure they are working on how to regulate this and I know for a fact that they have created a transportation committee to address this issue”.


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Gilberto and Photography:“I met famous photographer Rick Sammon through a friend and we started to organize 10 day tours for professional photographers, people with cameras ranging between 10,000 and 20,000 dollars. We would go shooting during the day and do the workshops at night and they would discuss all kinds of techniques while I sat there listening and holding a $150.00 camera in my hand that a friend had given me as a present”.

Q. What are your recommendations for people traveling to San Blas?Passport or ID: always bring your passport or your ID if you are local. We are close to the border with Colombia and there are many sailboats coming from the Caribbean islands so there is a chance that government authorities may ask for it and if you don’t have it you will be asked to go and get it and that can be highly inconvenient.

No $100 dollar bills: Bring small denomination bills, $1, $5, $10 and $20. Some of the islands have an admission charge of $1 or $2 and you will not get change for a $100. Also, we don’t have ATMS in the tourist areas.

Respect: our culture and traditions, for instance don’t walk into a graveyard. Do not just take photos of people; ask for permission. What would you think or do if somebody you didn´t know started taking photos of you?

Islands and traveling: The islands with better facilities are located in section #2 like Playon Chico, however the most beautiful islands are located within section #1 where I come from.

*“A few years ago linguists changed the name Kuna to Guna because our alphabet does not have the letter K, but to be quite honest, I still say Kuna, and 90% of my people still say Kuna. It sounds better to me.” Gilberto.

Photo by Gilberto Alemancia

The best way to travel is by car and it is only a 2 ½ drive from Panama City to the port. There are 3 ports, Carti, Yandup and Tupile and depending on your destination the boat ride may take anywhere between 15 and 60 minutes.

Flying can be tricky, not only is there just one flight a day meaning that you have to leave the next morning, but also the fact that if there are not enough passengers going to the island the next day there may not be a flight picking you up and you will be stranded.

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