PART TWO: ARGENTINA BIRDING TRIP MARCH 2-25

PAGE 16 The birding pair arrived in Puerto Iguaçu shortly after one o'clock and found the Toucan Lodge rather quickly and the talkative owner

settled us in and gave directions to three places that sold car parts. A squat on the toilet and a face wash and we were off at around two o'clock and found the street with the auto part outlets easily. None were able to order the reflector. The Renault was then pointed towards Jardin de Picaflores and we asked an English-speaking fellow for directions and he told us to follow him in his car. Three or four blocks later we were parked on the street in front of the garden, exactly as it was opening at three o'clock. Both of us paid our own entrance fee of

thirty pesos in cash. Hank and I stayed until five-fifteen mistakenly thinking we might have a supper at Las Orquideas early due to it being a tourist hotel. Unfortunately we left five minutes too early as the lady came to the gate to tell us that the Planalto Hermit had arrived as we left. Yours truly stepped back inside and surveyed the feeders but it had gone. However we did see Bananaquit, Blue Dacnis, several

Ruddy Ground-Doves, Violaceous Euphonia, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Black Jacobin, Versicolored Emerald, Gilded Hummingbird, one Glittering-bellied Emerald, Violet-capped Woodnymph, and many Black-throated Mangos. Jardin de Picaflores has a large sign at the corner of Curupi and the main road through town. Curve left at the first corner and drive two blocks to Belgrano. It's well signed on the left

hand corner.

Jardin de Picaflores Violet-capped Woodnymph Swallow-tailed Hummingbird The rooms were returned to at five twenty-five to find the electricity was out. The air-conditioning had not cooled the room. Yours truly washed the sweat and accumulated natural oil from my face and underarms and pointed the rental towards Las Orquideas a mere kilometer

away. Supper was not served until eight o'clock. A track was found that lead to a microwave station that was walked briefly but there was no birds moving at this time of day. The area was abandoned within fifteen minutes and we drove towards the falls for six kilometers and found no other side roads and returned to the Toucan Lodge at seven o'clock. Hank bought a beer at a nearby store. Yours truly checked

email and wrote my wife before beginning the day's memoirs, which were half done when departing for the Las Orquideas Hotel at seven-forty. A five minute-wait then took place for the dining room to be officially open and a table was selected. The incredible buffet meal was ready and we filled our plates to overflowing. Hank ordered another beer while a waiter placed a very tasty coffee on the table in front of

me. The delicious and sophisticated meal was wolfed down in a matter of twenty minutes and we asked for the check. Meanwhile, the desserts were placed on a side table and the delicious caramel flan was chosen. The two bills came shortly after and the one hundred and seventy five pesos were placed on Visa. The Toucan Lodge was reoccupied at five minutes past nine and the day's memoirs were polished off at nine twenty-nine while seated outside our rooms in the cool but humid air. No nocturnal birds were heard at that time. All of my clothes were washed in the shower prior to retiring at ten-thirty that had been worn since the laundry being done at Estancia Virocay.

Toucan Lodge: Iguaçu Missiones Province Telephone: 0054-3757-427224; email toucanlodge@gmail.com Email available.

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March 14: Hank and I woke just before the alarm at five-fifty on the fourteenth and prepared for the day. A cup of Tasters Choice was washed down before moving off to the car. We were along the entrance road to Iguaçu Park at six-thirty and birds began to move fifteen

minutes later. There was no abundance, however. Several all-dark brown thrushes whose only distinguishing features were dark bills and some scalloping on the undertail coverts and light streaking on the throat were almost certainly immature Yellow-legged. A flycatcher that looked like a smaller Streaked with noticeable rufous in the tail and wings with quite a small bill was later positively identified. After looking at photos

it was certainly a Variegated due to the amount of reddish coloration. Blue-winged Parrotlets, Gray-hooded Flycatcher, and a male Purple-throated Euphonia were identified while several fleeting glimpses were made of unidentified birds. The most exciting experience was seeing an Ocelot dashing across the road behind us. The car was in the line-up to get into the park at seven-fifty. Two Toco Toucans were seen at the top of a distant tree waiting for the gates to open. The gates opened at eight and yours truly parked the car in the lot and Hank and I strolled over to the ticket booth and we both paid our own way in, one hundred and seventy pesos, and shared the forty pesos to leave the car in the parking lot. Thus yours truly paid

one hundred and ninety pesos in cash. The sun was already hot and the humidity was fairly high. The first stop was at the ATM machine where I was introduced to withdrawing cash. American was impossible to get so one thousand pesos was withdrawn, being charged an extra forty-seven point forty-six pesos. We stopped at the Carlos Enriquez Cafeteria and yours truly bought an orange soft drink, a coffee,

two granola bars, and a meat empanada for seventy-seven pesos on Visa.

Iguazu Falls Park Entrance Iguazu Falls Iguazu Falls

The Macuco Trail was situated beside the fast-food eatery and the first open section was traversed on foot where a female Glaucous-blue Grosbeak was sitting atop an open bush and many Toco Toucans and Plush-crested Jays were feeding. The tropical forest was entered at about nine o'clock and the first birds seen were a pair of Black-throated Trogons. The forest was still with only a few birds singing

including Variable Antshrikes. A feeding flock was eventually encountered with a Blue Manakin, Black-goggled Tanager and several birds that moved through too quickly to be identified. The tape for Rufous Gnateater was played on at least a dozen occasions with no response. The trail was five kilometers in length and virtually nothing was seen up to the lookout point and small waterfall. The trees were empty on

the return hike. Two small dark swifts, likely Sick's flew overhead. It was two o'clock when seated in the La Selva Restaurant. A buffet lunch was ready and yours truly picked a piece of chicken, beef in gravy, the latter spooned on white rice, tomatoes, cucumber, and lettuce et cetera. The waiter placed a Fanta on the table. Dessert included canned peaches and a sweet pastry that tasted like bread pudding. Some six pesos were left on the table as a tip to rid myself of loose

change. The bill for yours truly and Hank that totaled four hundred and fifty-six pesos was placed on my Visa but Hank handed back cash of two hundred pesos thus owing thirty pesos.

It was around three o'clock when trudging down the Green Trail towards the falls. The lower trail was first in line but no swifts were flying

around the cascades. Hank and I walked around the falls taking pictures and video and seeing absolutely no birds. It was five o'clock when arriving back in the complex and exit time was six o'clock. I bought an orange pop and hightailed it to the gate and had the ticket stamped to enter for half price, unfortunately, that lower entrance fee was only for the next day.

The Renault was pointed out of the park at five forty-five and headed for the center of Puerto Iguaçu where we bought groceries for breakfast and lunch tomorrow since we were going to Uruguai-1 Park where no food was available. Yours truly bought six apples, bread, cheese, a case of bottled water, a large orange pop, and two rolls of Oreo cookies. These were paid on Visa in the amount of one hundred

and sixty-eight point forty-six pesos. An English-speaking fellow from Uruguay was standing next to me and helped in getting directions to a car wash. Hank and I headed there at six o'clock and found four fellows who were using rather modern equipment under a trashy shelter

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La Selva Restaurant

beside a ramshackle house. They were extremely efficient and did an excellent job including waxing, washing the dirt from inside the door

wells and vacuumed every nook and corner for forty pesos. Hank paid the fee and added a five-peso tip. The tank needed filling and unfortunately only an YPF station seemed to be available so we filled the tank at five hundred and forty pesos, dividing the cash payment at two hundred and seventy each. The tired travellers were back at the Toucan Lodge at eight-fifteen. Although hot and sticky, a package of cookies, a glass of orange pop, and a glass of water were consumed while writing the day' s memoirs until nine fifty-two. An email message was sent to Pat at that time and then images of Variegated and Piratic Flycatchers were examined until ten o'clock. A welcomed shower took place afterward until ten-

thirty. March 15: Yours truly woke to the iPod alarm at five o'clock on the fifteenth and prepared for the day that included the necessary cup of coffee. Hank was driving and we headed east to highway twelve and headed south to Wanda where we picked up highway nineteen and

travelled about fifty kilometers to Uruguai-1 Park headquarters. Two police checks were passed through en route with one simply asking to check if the windshield wipers operated. The second was outside the park entrance and we just said aves and pointed to the park. The trail was too dark on arrival at six-thirty so we birded the lawn area around the buildings finding several juvenile Yellow-legged Thrushes. One

distant bird was presumed to be a female Eastern Slaty-Thrush, showing the white splotch on the upper breast but the bill and leg colour was not seen. The thrush was obviously brown with a grayish head. The woods was much more active than those at Iguaçu. The first trail behind headquarters took until ten o'clock to finish. The prize was a Rufous Gnateater that was heard and taped out and observed at length in the open. A single Black-fronted Piping-Guan was roosting in the trees above a picnic table near the river.

Uruguai-1 Park Park Entrance Uruguai-1 Park headquarters Sendero behind headquarters

Lunch was eaten at ten-twenty, five slices of cheese on four slices of bread, an apple, water, and a package of Oreo cookies. Two slices of bread were tossed to the Plush-crested Jays waiting to be fed. The skies were now completely overcast and it was much cooler with less humidity than any other day thus far in the country. The second shorter two and a half kilometer trail across the highway was more active

with birds being seen on a regular basis. Rain fell for a short period around four-thirty. The grounds around headquarters were active at that time and there were now ten Black-fronted Piping-Guans in the tree over the picnic table. The day had produced two Rufous Gnateaters, several Southern Bristle-Tyrants, two Yellow Tyrannulets, two Social Flycatchers, a

Squirrel Cuckoo, Ochre-collared Piculet, Plain-winged, Scalloped and Ochraceous Woodcreepers, Ochre-breasted and White-eyed Foliage-Gleaners, a White-spotted Woodpecker, Plain Antvireos, Variable Antshrikes, and a White-throated Spadebill. A Drab-breasted Bamboo-

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Tyrant low in a bamboo area caused some identification problems due to its pale beige breast but it had distinctive olive upper parts and the similar-shaped and typically all-over buff-colored Rusty-breasted Nunlet is not listed for the park. The reserve was left in the rear view mirror at five o'clock, arriving back at the lodge at six o'clock. The pot polish was applied to the

abrasions and scratches on the bumper and all but the deepest disappeared. A welcomed squat on the toilet, a shower, a shave, and washing three clothing items followed. The iPad and iPod were drained and a brief note was sent to Pat at seven-thirty while talking to an English couple. Hank came by at seven-fifty and we were off to the Las Orquideas Hotel for supper. It was eight o'clock when beginning to fill our plates at the Las Orquideas restaurant that cost one hundred and seventy-five pesos on Visa plus a twelve-peso tip. The plate was filled with beef in onion sauce, mixed vegetables, mashed potatoes, pasta with meat and tomato topping, green beans, a bun and a dessert of bread pudding with caramel sauce. All of this was washed down with a cup of coffee. A packet of salt was secured and used later on my impetigo. The rooms were reoccupied at nine-fifteen. The memoirs were underway almost

immediately and finished at ten minutes past ten.

Las Orquideas Restaurant

March 16: Yours truly woke just before the iPod alarm rang at five o'clock ton the sixteenth o greet yet another sunny day. A coffee was prepared and we were off to do some owling along highway 101. There were few cars at first but traffic, though intermittent, soon build and presented interruptions while playing the tape. All known owl species that lived in the area were played with no response. Two

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls and a Tropical Screech-Owl were the only nocturnal birds heard. Daylight brought a few good feeding flocks with two White-eyed Parakeets flying overhead. A perfect view was obtained of a perched Gray-headed Kite, an Ochre-breasted Foliage-Gleaner, Yellow Tyrannulet, Red-rumped Cacique, Saffron-billed Sparrow, Magpie Tanager and another Variable Antshrike, this one with a gray head,

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Highway 101 near park entrance We worked our way back to the entrance road to the falls at nine-thirty. The birding slowed soon after and we decided to return to the lodge, as yours truly needed to use the washroom. The long wait resulted in a brown stain in my underwear and those and my light pants

were replaced with jeans. A search then took place on the iPad to find out if the Great Dusky Swifts only occurred at Devil's Throat. It seemed that was the best spot to look and they were resident in March. Driving details and times were gathered from the hotel owner and for a coffee shop downtown. The later was eventually found beside which a young Latino was selling and buying money. He offered ten

point four pesos to the US Dollar about a penny less than the present rate. A local cafe was selected. Hank decided to forgo a meal and coffee as both of us had decided yesterday to have lunch at the Las Orquideas Hotel. It was now eleven-thirty and we drove straight to the Orquideas, arriving at noon after a detour to investigate a stretch of the

Uruguay River. A car exactly like ours was parked on the street and the owner was talking to a fellow from Ontario, I asked if he would sell his reflector to us and he said no. We were at the Las Orquideas at noon and the only food available was off the menu. Hank ordered a Chinese-like vegetable dish that came

with chicken and asked the have the meal without the meat. Of course it was premade and some of the fowl was left in the dish that seemed to upset him a great deal and he asked for and received a ten percent discount. I had fried breaded chicken with chips and a salad with carrots, celery, olives, and palm hearts with an ice cold Fanta that cost one hundred and forty pesos on Visa and sixteen pesos cash. The heat was unbearable at two-fifteen when we emerged. The sanctuary trail was driven for a quarter kilometer before beginning to walk. Red-rumped Caciques, female White-lined Tanagers, Bananaquits, Blue Dacnis, and a cacique that flew off its perch that seemed to have a black rump that may have been a Solitary. The walk was exhausting with a full stomach and the now oppressive humidity. The rental was pointed towards town and the Jardin de Los

Picaflores, arriving at two fifty-five. The gates were opened at ten minutes past three and five minutes later the Planalto Hermit arrived. Yours truly was nodding off and the decision to write the day's report was made in an attempt to stay awake. The plan went ahead as every hummingbird species had now been ticked. The work was done between three-thirty and four twenty-eight. I asked for coffee and the

owners brought a pot at four-twenty. Clouds were building at the time. Yours truly has added one hundred and nineteen lifers to my World list to date.

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The lady was paid thirty-two pesos in cash for the entry fee and coffee that was actually free. The Planalto Hermit made its longest appearance as we were leaving at five forty-five as a reward. The Renault was then driven back to the sanctuary road and though cooler we only saw a Magpie Tanager. We were back at the lodge at six-thirty and the notes were brought up to date. The plan was to drive the sanctuary road at dusk to see if there were any nightjars and owls. This took place at seven o’clock and we were able to creep up on two different birds, both Common Pauraques. The night birding was done at seven-forty and the rooms were occupied where showers and clothing was cleaned. The lights were turned off early tonight at ten o’clock. March 17: Yours truly woke to the iPod alarm at four-fifty on the seventeenth and prepared for the day including eating an apple and making a cup of coffee in the room with the lodge's brew that was horrible. We took off at five-fifteen to owl along highway 101 but arrived just prior to daybreak and only one stop was made before it was too light for the nocturnal predators. The drive took us to the same point that we had

birded the highway previously (just before the check point) and worked back, stopping at two places that produced little. The third stop was about a kilometer and a half from the park entrance road where we immediately saw a small group of birds on the top of a high tree that was lightly leafed. A small group of Swallow Tanagers was noted first followed by an endless feeding flock that remained along the road and was

constantly joined by other birds. It was a pleasant surprise from the previous days in the area. Most birds were identified and the group did not disperse until nine-thirty. Those identified included Chestnut-vented Conebill, Black-crowned Tityra, Green-headed Tanager, Rufous-crowned Greenlet, Epaulet Oriole, Sharp-billed Treehunter, a Xenops species, Scalloped Treecreeper, White-crested Tyrannulet, Sepia-capped

Flycatcher, a male Crested Becard and a probable Chivi Vireo, A Crowned Slaty-Flycatcher was observed that differed from the image in mind appearing "squat" and short tailed. It was dark gray overall with a slightly paler breast marked with darker soft streaking and a broad white crown patch. The car was soon in the parking lot at Iguaçu Falls. The one hundred and ninety pesos were paid in cash (half of the forty peso parking fee given to me by Hank). Yours truly headed directly to the Carlos Enriquez Cafeteria while Hank was visiting the washroom. A chicken empanada, three granola bars, an orange soft drink, and a coffee cost eighty-seven pesos approximately on Visa. The coffee and empanada were eaten while working out the morning's species. Hank arrived soon after and a measured stroll then took place down the trail playing

the tape for the Surucua Trogon, antpittas, et cetera. A medium-large sized woodpecker flew quickly past that showed yellow on the back and possibly on the head that was surely a Blond-crested. We only walked two and a half kilometers and turned back to ensure having enough time to catch the train to the Devil's Gorge. Meanwhile, my reading glasses were lost along the trail. An Irish birder was chanced

upon who lived in Australia and we chatted briefly. Strangely he had found my reading glasses. Several female Guira Tanagers were seen nearer the exit, solving the puzzle of one seen earlier. Two or three evenly colored monkeys presumed to juvenile Brown Howlers were seen. The La Selva Restaurant was seated in at two o'clock and we helped ourselves immediately to the buffet luncheon. Rice, chicken, beef, tomatoes, lettuce, a bun, et cetera was piled onto my plate along with a banana. That was eaten fairly quickly followed by my favourite bread pudding-like dessert. Hank paid the bill as a Birthday gift. Hank and I stopped at the cafeteria where yours truly bought a Sprite for

twenty-eight pesos in cash. The train soon came at two-thirty and chugged off towards the Devil's Throat, arriving at two-fifty. The metal walkway was quite long and walking slowly such things as several large catfish, a huge turtle, and a single White-winged Swallow were observed.

Train and trail to Devil's Throat

The walkway eventually brought us to one of the most incredible sights on earth at three-fifteen. Roaring torrents of white and green water

plunged over the abyss in several wide or ribbon-like streams along a rock wall that stretched for a quarter mile. The rock walls, overhead skies, and the horizon were checked for Great Dusky Swifts but none were seen at least by the naked eye. The skies were now overcast with black threatening clouds but all moved off around us. A stiff wind was refreshing as well as the mist. The belief now was that the

swifts would likely arrive just prior to nightfall, around six-thirty, and not wishing to miss the train we departed at four forty-five. A fellow that we had meet on the Macuco Trail in the morning said that he had seen a great swarm of Great Dusky Swifts way off in the distance using his binoculars. We had not done this unfortunately, but whether the fellow was falsifying the claim is a possibility.

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Devil's Throat

Devil's Throat

Hank and I climbed aboard the train at five-twenty and were heading back to the entrance point at five-thirty. The train stopped at the intermittent terminal for quite awhile and several dark swifts appeared overhead, likely because of the storm conditions. A fast, heavy shower occurred at that time. The birds were fairly large and appeared to be entirely black. The flight was like a Black Swift with plenty of

gliding, not the continuous flickering flight mentioned for Great Dusky, as species that is actually slightly smaller than White-collared. A very small swift about the size of a Vaux's flew past as we were walking quickly for the exit gate after the train arrived at the last station. It too appeared dark all over but it was only seen with the naked eye in dull light. The surprise was a Chestnut-eared Aracari sitting near the

exit at close range, low in a Papaya tree. The identification features included a yellow breast with a thinnish red band mid breast and a reddish upper mandible with yellow outline. The rental drove out of the parking lot at six-thirty and was pointed for town. The Ruta 17 Supermarcado was selected this time for groceries where yours truly bought a yogurt that was later found to be too thin to be safe, six pears, two bottles of water, apple juice, bread,

cheese, two rolls of Oreo cookies, and a hard sponge to work on the scratches that remain on the car. The cost was one hundred and thirty seven point sixty-three pesos placed on Visa. We were back at the lodge at about seven-fifteen or so and yours truly showered and began the day's story at around eight while eating a

package of Oreo cookies. Time was taken to survey the complete list of birds for Iguaçu Falls to correct any errors and to look over the bills and count the money. At the time I had two hundred and eighty-two American dollars and only required two hundred and forty of that for Poppy so that was taken care of. I also had seven hundred and thirty-two, enough for the rest of the trip if gas stations that take Visa

were found. The story was done at seven forty-eight. The time was then taken to review species, mail Pat, and to look for plastic shops in the country. March 18: Yours truly woke when Hank switched on the lights at five o'clock on the eighteenth and both of us prepared for the day. A

lunch was packed of one package of Oreo cookies, a large pear, four slices of bread and a package of cheese, a carton of apple juice, and two bottles of water. Yours truly was behind the wheel at five-thirty and the forty-four kilometers to Wanda and the fifty to Uruguai-1 Park

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were covered quickly arriving at six-thirty. Daylight prevented any owling. The day was mainly sunny with scattered clouds and by midday the humidity was oppressive. The birding started around the park buildings in hopes of finding a thrush with a yellow bill but all four had dark bills and pinkish-dusky legs with dark brown plumage overall but showing grayish heads, all juvenile Yellow-legged. A

Blond-crested Woodpecker was seen up close in one of the short trees near the ranger station. The next step was to look for Hank's lost umbrella along the short trail across the highway. The hike started from the exit end and a flurry of birds was met at the hydro clearing where red flowers were blossoming. Two Scale-throated Hermits were first in line followed by an Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher. The woods were very quiet and the wish was that we had stayed on the road edge. A positive Scalloped

Woodcreeper was seen at length up close and the call compared to the tape. A Surucua Trogon was taped in but only fleeting glimpses were obtained, one of its green back. A juvenile Harris's Hawk was an unusual sight in the forest when comparing its open desert habitats in the United States. The fellows from the station were cutting edges in the trails today, likely in response to our being there. One fellow

was met on the way out at four-thirty who was cutting the weeds with a weed-cutter. It was wished that this were done at least three days prior as yours truly picked up some ten chigger bites simply for not taking precautions on the first visit. Both of us were in urgent need of a bowel movement and we were moving fairly quickly during the last hundred-yards along the trail to

grab rolls of toilet paper from the trunk. Hank and I strolled off in opposite directions. I had just finished when one of the workers appeared from the end of the long trail. I walked off to the river to wash my hands and chanced upon a Coral Snake and photographed it.

Coral Snake Lime-green Butterfly

Our lunch was eaten leisurely in the shade on the picnic table. There was no sign of the guans today. Butterflies were everywhere. The long trail was walked after lunch beginning around eleven-thirty. A River Warbler was first in line that gave perfect looks of its ochraceous breast and supercillary. An unknown bird with a great deal of smoky gray plumage with at least some rufous coloration eluded

identification, likely an antbird Another Surucua Trogon was taped in and it too stayed hidden well in the tops of the trees over our heads. Playing the tape again made the bird fly across a wide opening where the red breast was finally seen. A pair of Blackish-blue Seedeaters appeared next the male was seen well. A very large bird with rounded wings and dark brown plumage with wide buffish edging on the

back escaped further detection. Two more Rufous Gnateaters were observed easily. We had just made it to the car at four-thirty when the heavens opened up. The drive towards Iguaçu proceeded through torrential rains until reaching Wanda. A blackish-brown Jagurundi crossed the road just west of the park entrance, our third wildcat species. The gas tank was filled at the Shell Station down the road using four hundred pesos in cash, a hundred of which was paid by yours truly. The drive continued

straight into Puerto Iguaçu to look for a bank so Hank could withdraw a thousand pesos, as his pockets were empty. An erroneous right turn on a one-way street occurred and two cops blew a whistle and we had to duck into a driveway to turn around. The male and female cops halted traffic to allow us back in the proper direction. As usual, there were no hassles and we carried on unscathed. Hank was then

dropped off while I found a parking spot in the hospital grounds. Yours truly walked back to the bank and Hank was waiting on the sidewalk empty handed as the ATM was depleted of cash. The Renault carried on to another bank two blocks away and Hank was dropped off again while I drove a few blocks and returned. He now had the money. We were back at the Toucan Lodge at six-thirty when I immediately showered, shaved, and washed today's clothes. New clothes were

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donned after putting Afterbite on the dozen or so accumulated chigger and mosquito bites. None itched badly. The notes were underway at eight o'clock and almost done at nine-fifty when we were off to the Las Orquideas Hotel for our final meal. The plate was filled with the usual beef, mashed potatoes, green beans, some fancy empanada, corn, a whole-wheat bun, and a cup of coffee and followed with pasta

topped with a tomato sauce. Carmel flan finalized the meal. The one hundred and seventy-five peso meal was paid with Visa.

Uruguai-1 Park bamboo We were back at the lodge at five minutes past nine and the day's memoirs were brought up to date at nine-eighteen. The notes were sent

by email afterward then Pat was sent a letter. March 19: The alarm on the iPod rang at two-fifty on the nineteenth and everything but the wet clothes washed last night and the food in the fridge were already packed. It took ten minutes to vacate the room and yours truly was behind the wheel at three o'clock. Speed limits

were ignored as we traveled east along Highway 101 then down Route 12 to Eldorado, clocking eighty-six kilometers on the odometer. Negotiating the center of that town along well-signed Route 17 was straightforward from the roundabout on highway twelve. The fifty-nine kilometer drive to Puzo Azulejo was simple following highway signs and directional signing for Bernardo de Irigoyen. Once in tiny Puzo

Azulejo, where there was only one sign for San Pedro, the rental was pointed south on Route 20 for forty-three kilometers to the T-junction with Route 14. A right turn south and an additional five kilometers brought us into San Pedro. The distance was covered in two hours and twenty minutes, as the road was not all that windy or hilly as expected allowing an average speed of a hundred kilometers an hour or more. The town was passed through quickly expecting to see the Araucaria pines as a solid block directly beside the highway at the southern edge

of town. No sign for the park was seen or ever located and the trees remained hidden from view throughout the search. We continued down the highway in a westerly direction for four or so kilometers that headed back to check out the sign designating another park. One led us to the bus station where we asked a fellow for directions showing the name of the park on the iPad. He pointed towards the highway and

indicated that we should turn into town. We did so and found a city park. However, later on looking at Google Earth we could have taken the third road past the city park that would have taken us to the northern edge of the park. Now literally frustrated and loosing darkness for owling, the rental was pointed back to where we had seen another sign for camping and drove down that muddy red earth road getting the

car dirty again. A small patch of secondary forest was stopped at where we played the Striped Owl tape only hearing roosters calling. Now six-thirty and daylight we returned to follow highway 14 west of town to the aforementioned junction with Route 17. Only a few scattered Araucaria pines were seen. We then stopped at a garage as Hank needed to use the washroom. The fellow indicated we should

pass a cemetery and the park was in the vicinity. We did so and found a very small number of pines with a muddy dirt road passing

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through. The car was parked and we strolled around the area seeing very few birds except for three Amazon-type parrots flying over at a fair distance that appeared to be totally green with red on the head. The list for the park indicated that they were Pileated Parrots. A small flock of parakeets dove into the low trees and were never seen again. We turned back after a half hour and asked two women and a man for

directions and they indicated that the park was back from where we came. Thus we turned around and drove three kilometers further following a sign for a bird park. This lead into degraded forest and clearings so we decided to give up, ranting and raving about the screw- up and the countries lack of proper signing. The conversation continued until we finally tossed it aside and headed south with a heavy heart and anger. It was found later that morning using Google Earth that the park was exactly where I had remembered it to be and we were

beside the western perimeter at the bus station. The entire problem was not trusting my memory and looking elsewhere, no signing, and never seeing the trees even though we were a couple of hundred yards away from the forest. Arrggghhhh. Yours truly filled the first tank full of gas today at a Shell Station in San Vicente at nine-twenty that cost three hundred and thirty-four

point thirty-seven pesos on Visa. A coffee, yogurt, and sandwich cost forty pesos for brunch also placed on Visa. The car was pointed south towards Obera afterward to look for the Renault dealership. At ten o’clock it started to rain extremely heavy, enough to completely wash the newly acquired mud from the vehicle. Obera was reached around eleven or so and Hank got directions from

a fellow and ten minutes later yours truly was in the showroom. The dealership did not sell parts. One salesman pointed almost directly across the street to a place that sold auto parts but they too did not carry our quest. The rain was so heavy that rivers of water ran down all of the streets. At this point we decided to leave and drive towards the Ardais Hotel. Another car part place was spied so yours truly ran

inside to ask. He too did not sell the reflector. At this point I saw several rolls of reflector tape and borrowed the roll to ensure that it was wide enough. It was and a single piece about eighteen inches long was purchased. The reflector tape will work perfectly to replace the lost plastic part for only twenty pesos paid in cash by yours truly. At this time Hank decided to drive back into town to find a bank to acquire another thousand pesos. One was found rather quickly and yours truly drove around the block and returned to pick Hank from the sidewalk with another wad of cash. The Renault was roaring down the two-lane highway soon after, arriving at the Hotel Ardais too early at one-forty. The owners were

informed of our decision to cancel. We decided to continue driving south and bird the palm forest tomorrow. A sign for the YPF Hotel was noticed along Highway 14 in Monte Caseros, Corrientes province about 125 kilometers north of the palm forest park that cost four hundred pesos paid by yours truly with Visa. That was paid in the garage cafeteria. The tank was then filled using Visa at an YPF station, which is highly unusual. Hank bought the gas. Note that Hank bought six hundred pesos worth of gas today. After cleaning the floor mat on the drivers side and placing the antidepressants, tooth paste, binoculars, and backpack with the iPod on the side table we drove the few hundred feet over to the garage snack bar for supper, buying a yogurt, ham and cheese sub-sandwich, and ultra strong coffee. A package of Oreo cookies and a plastic carton of nuts was also purchased, the cookies eaten in the room and the nuts saved

for breakfast. That cost sixty-three point fifty pesos in cash. Rain was still falling but lightly. There was Wi-Fi in the cafeteria and the Google Earth map of the region around Araucaria Park was studied with no conclusion of where the park buildings and entrance were located. Email was sent off to my wife and unwanted mail deleted. We were back in room at seven thirty-five when yours truly began to type day's report, finishing at eight fifty-three. March 20: The iPod alarm rang at five o'clock on the twentieth and we were ready in ten minutes. A quick stop took place at the garage cafeteria for coffee to go that cost approximately twenty-five pesos. Yours truly was the driver and after asking how to enter highway 14

south we were on our way. Light drizzle or rain fell as we headed towards Concordia about one hundred and seventy kilometers away. Another YPF Hotel was found along the highway approaching the turn-off to Concordia and a nice hotel just south of the junction leading to the city on the west side of the highway. Thus staying overnight close to Concordia is possible without driving into the busy city center

when visiting Los Palmas National Park. It was seven-thirty when arriving at the national park and the rain had stopped with cool temperatures and overcast skies. The well-signed park is situated about ten kilometers south of Ubajay and easily accessed directly from divided highway 14. This site was set aside for the

preservation of its characteristic Yatay palm trees. The park has a humid savannah ecosystem, typical of the Argentine Mesopotamia. The terrain features patches of palm trees of several species, grassland, small woods, and forest, interrupted by streams flowing east. The sandy road was in excellent condition with no standing water. The first stop produced a singing immature Golden-billed Saltator, a

Swainson's Hawk and two Gray-necked Wood-Rails further down the road. The drive continued to the end of the fourteen kilometers from the highway. Surprisingly, there was a campground, toilets, and two places to eat. Hank was in urgent need of the toilet, the reason for leaving an active bird site. The toilets were being cleaned and the poor fellow with diarrhea had to wait. Yours truly wandered around the campground finding nothing new but lots of jays and Roadside Hawks. When Hank was finished we walked two trails through riverine forest behind the campground. The woods were empty but an adult Rufous-thighed Kite was scoped sitting close by along the track just outside.

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Los Palmas National Park

Another road was followed to a trail for observing birds around ten o'clock that led through the same type of forest that was equally void of birds but a male Blue-billed Black-Tyrant and a Small-billed Elaenia were seen and two or more small flycatchers with whitish underparts, very pale yellow undertails, a distinctly pale gray face that extended above the eye with no supercillary, buffish wing bars, pale bills, and

brown upperparts were seen that were thought most likely to be Southern Beardless-Tyrannulets despite not showing crests. Later, three tyrannulets seen poorly were luckily calling and gave a liquid ' pwit " or 'squirt'. The Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet is the only bird of its type that occurs in the area and comparing the voice later at home it seemed to be the same as that heard. The Straneck’s Tyrannulet shows a distinct white supercillary and has a completely different call.

Forest types in Los Palmas National Park

The trail was exited at two-thirty and we drove to a lookout that led to lake. A feeding flock was discovered along the drive that held a pair of Hepatic Tanager and a Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper that was seen very well with its moderately long decurved bill and heavily striped breast and white supercillary. A fellow from Holland was birding from the end of the road that we talked to briefly as a White-tailed Hawk flew past. It was now four o'clock and we drove south once more, arriving at the Itapeby Bed and Breakfast at five-eighteen. After reintroducing ourselves to the charming couple we unpacked the clothing and washed socks. The car needed washing again and a hose located near the car was utilized to complete the job inside and out. The bumper scratches were worked on for ten minutes that were now almost invisible.

A much-needed shower followed and Hank and I walked over to the house. The Wi-Fi was not working and some of today’s memoirs were written on the iPad notes prior to finding a Tropical Screech-Owl in the room. A great deal of effort was needed until finally letting it escape. Supper came at around eight o'clock that consisted of salad, chicken, rice, with cheese and sweet thick jams.

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Hank and I were back at the room at ten a o'clock when yours truly began to research the pictures of flycatchers. The iPad was eventually plugged in and the autobiography written from ten-twenty to ten thirty. Yours truly fell asleep during the story telling and continued the notes from ten-fifty to two minutes past eleven. March 21: The alarm on the iPod rang at five o'clock on the twenty-first and coffees were brewed in the room. Yours truly drove east two kilometers along Urquiza el Oeste to an all-night Esso station in Gualeguaychu and filled the tank with Visa costing four hundred and sixty pesos. It was five-twenty in the morning when the drive commenced from whence we came then south on highway 14 towards Ceibas, sixty-seven kilometers away. The night sky was full of stars and promised a warm day. The speed was kept between one hundred and thirty

and one hundred and forty kilometers an hour and we reached the town and at six o'clock were on the famous, excellent hard packed sand road that was now very smooth due to grading. A nightjar flew over the car at the beginning of the road and the eye-shine of another was seen well down the road. We began to move slowly towards it with the high beams on and the night bird decided to leave the road surface

when we were some one hundred yards away; thus nothing of its plumage was observed. The drive proceeded until it was obviously too light for nightjars to be on the road and stopped beside three windmills and photographed them against the red morning sky. The birds were singing a dawn chorus at six-forty and it was evident that there were plenty of songsters

to tick as soon as it was light enough to see. At seven the sky was filled with tens of thousands of White-faced Ibis and Neotropical Cormorants and one Black-crowned Night-Heron. A small group of Grassland Yellow-Finches was observed first sitting on a low bush, the males being heavily streaked on the back with entirely pale yellow breasts and distinct eye rings. Two immature Golden-billed Saltators

that were not singing appeared next. The sky soon clouded over and a very chilly wind developed and yours truly was without a coat and dressed in a T-shirt. Hank lent me his coat and that was not enough to keep the wind from cooling my body temperature, though I was not shivering or completely uncomfortable.

Sunrise on Ceibas Road Ceibas Road

The area was void of birdlife after an hour and we drove off towards town. A stop a few hundred meters down the road immediately produced what appeared to be a White-naped Xenopsaris with a dark cap that seemed to be extensive, white underparts, and white wing bars and a gray back. The bird was distant and details were never recorded. It feed by moving through the branches and not sitting or

darting out to catch flying insects. An unidentified flycatcher was recorded briefly at a distance that was fairly large with a white upper breast and yellow lower breast. It may have been a Yellow-olive Flycatcher. Next in line were two Tufted Tit-Spinetails, a close male

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Chestnut-crowned Blackbird, and a positive Golden-billed Saltator that showed the yellow bill that was slightly darkened at the tip. A Three-striped Flycatcher was sitting on an overhead wire and flew down before the scope could be focused on the bird, but the yellow breast seemed to extend to the chin. This is the only flycatcher of the type that occurs in this region of Argentina. Last but not least was a

Dusky-capped Flycatcher. At ten o'clock the skies darkened more and threatened rain. Both of us were chilled having not brought clothes to ward off such unusual weather. A cafe of dubious quality was the only place in town that served coffee. We drove into Ceibas and yours truly ordered a coffee and a package of sweet croissants. The respite cost forty-one pesos in cash. The Styrofoam container from the sweets was retained and a

cardboard box secured from the owner to build-up the backing on the lost reflector.

Wacky Restaurant The Renault was back on the Ceibas Road at ten-thirty and we quickly picked up three Lark-like Bushrunners and three or four Vermilion Flycatchers. The local race of this small flycatcher is much darker than those found in North America. Another White-naped Xenopsaris was seen, again at a distance and too quickly to observe much. However, this time the bird was seen through the scope and it exhibited a

white forehead that was uneven and blended into the black head. The feeding was observed longer and it was flycatching in short bursts around the leaves as well as moving through the foliage and branches of the canopy. Many birds were seen with Tyrannulet-like birds left unidentified. Strangely, the sun emerged at eleven-thirty and within a half hour the entire sky was blue from horizon to horizon. Hank spotted a White-barred Piculet that yours truly only saw the white and black barring on the sides briefly. This is the only species of piculet in the region. The noon hour was soon upon us and most of the birds became silent and retreated to the shade. The temperature climbed and the coat was

removed. The wind, however, remained very cool. A pair of Brazilian Ducks was observed in a tiny vegetated pond, the female showing two white spots on the fore part of the face and whitish cheeks. The male was rather solemn with a dark bill that showed a large but subdued red area on the bill. It was one-thirty when calling it quits as the birds were now scarce and there were chores to take care of. The first was to drop by the Renault dealership we had seen early in the morning when getting gas. The place was closed due to bankruptcy. It was two-twenty when pulling up to our rooms. The Wi-Fi was working so we sat out in the cold near the pool and a letter was sent to my wife, unwanted mail deleted, and mileage to Otamendi found. Yours truly began to make the template to fix the lost reflector at that time. One was produced

and the Styrofoam platter was cut to make two pieces to ensure that the reflector sat out from the recess. Poppy and her husband appeared about the time it was complete and I asked for a pair of scissors. Poppy was followed to the kitchen where the pair was secured and I found a tough piece of string to tie the Styrofoam to the reflector indentation in the rear bumper. Hank was helping at this point and it was

obvious that glue was required to hold the ends in place. Yours truly walked back to the main house and the male owner produced a tube of epoxy glue and the promised role of glue-backed roofing material. The rubber-like substance was very thin and to build-up the already filled area would have taken some eight pieces. The glue worked to hold the ends in place and the final step of cutting the reflector tape to

size was underway. It was cut too large initially on purpose so that it could be trimmed down slowly as not to make a mistake. After some two and a half hours the work was done and it looked quite good enough to pass off as long as no one looked closer than a foot or so. Poppy had our tea made at five o'clock and we sat down to a jug of coffee and several types of breads including Melba toast, toast, a nuts

and berry cake with jam and honey. Two cups of the black brew were swilled back. The two hundred and forty American dollars yours truly owed was paid to the man of the house in cash with the ten dollars worth of change paid back with one hundred and ten pesos cash. Hank and I took off for downtown at five-forty and revisited the same bank where

Hank withdrew a thousand pesos to pay for his stay at the bed and breakfast on an earlier occasion. We then continued on to the riverfront through the entire downtown core. Most of the streets wee signed, each one-way in opposing directions and lacking stop signs making for an uneasy drive. The goal was a store that specialized in selling matte cups and metal straws that Hank was interested in buying as a souvenir of the country. A very nice sweater with an Andean Indian flare was hanging in the store and I asked the sales lady to see it. It

was so large that it overhung my arm by several inches. I explained that it was for my wife and she brought out another that would fit and equally nice but with a different design. It only cost three hundred pesos - what a deal! I asked if she took Visa and she did but the damn

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Our rooms at Itapeby Bed and Breakfast Adjacent field with Spotted Nothura

machine would not accept my card or Hank's. I felt compassion for her as she might possibly have lost a great deal of commission and

equally disappointed, as the sweater was extremely nice. Yours truly drove back through town, arriving at the room at about six-thirty. The socks and light pants were thrown into the bag and the jeans and the fleece worn. The day's notes were underway from six-fifty to eight o'clock at which time we walked over for supper that

began at eleven minutes past eight. The Wi-Fi was working so email was sent et cetera beginning at that time. March 22: Yours truly woke to Hank's voice at four-thirty on the twenty-second not hearing the alarm ring. We packed the gear in the trunk and yours truly was behind the wheel as the speedometer was held to one hundred and twenty to one hundred and thirty kilometers an hour.

The rental stopped its forward progress for gas at six-thirty that yours truly paid on Visa at three hundred and seventy-eight pesos. Also picked up at the station were a coffee, a sub-sandwich, and an orange soft drink that cost about thirty-five pesos in cash. Somehow we ended up on the wrong road and fortunately the highway was seen and a short U-turn brought us back on track with no

difficulties. Ten minutes later we were driving down the Otamendi road, arriving at a perfect time. The morning air was very cool and my down Gortex lining was worn to keep warm. The sun shone throughout the entire day. The spot where Hank had heard the Straight-billed Reedhaunters on the first visit was reestablished and two were heard distinctly. A bird that was certainly a reedhaunter was sitting up at one point at a distance but the bill looked too short for the quest. However, it was facing us and the bill may have been shortened by the angle.

It was staring in our direction and twitching its tail as if annoyed.

Otamendi entranceway Beginning of Otamendi marsh road

In the following hours until ten-thirty we had good close up views in the open of a Green-winged Saltator, a Long-tailed Reed-Finch, four Diademed Tanagers including two that showed the white and red topknot, a spine-tail with a rufous crown and shoulder patch and a

medium gray breast (the colour of the forehead was indiscernible) that most closely resembled a Spix's, although the Sooty-fronted is a more common bird at Otamendi, and a Checkered Woodpecker due to its size and being the only small woodpecker on the Otamendi list. Another Spine-tail with a conspicuous rufous crown that stood out in sharp contrast to the dull and darkish brown plumage that lacked any

further rufous patches was almost certainly a Bay-crowned Wren-Spinetail.

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Birding slowed greatly after ten o'clock and we decided to bird around the open sites of the headquarters building where nothing was found as activity was low. The drive back to the airport began at eleven o’clock or so with Hank behind the wheel. The journey was rapid with no hassles. The toll

booth costs today were paid by yours truly amounting to only five pesos in cash as honking horns opened the gates at one that we passed through for free. A strange but satisfying custom in Argentina is for everyone to honk their horn when the lines to pay the toll reach above about a dozen vehicles and the attendants allow the cars through free of charge. The jumble of freeways were negotiated easily today and Hank and I arrived safely back at the airport hotel. Although a Saturday, traffic was at a standstill leading out of the city at midday. The Renault pulled into the driveway of the Posada de las Aguilas Hotel at two-thirty the trunk was unpacked and all of the gear placed in our room. Yours truly moved the vehicle onto the sidewalk as per instructed from the fellow behind the desk. Using the hotel's computer to surf the Internet was next in line to secure the directions to Costenero Sur while

drawing a street map. The fellow at the hotel drove us over in the shuttle can free of charge to a restaurant four blocks away for lunch, the El Quincho with a beautiful brick interior. It was a very fancy place but a carrot stuffed chicken leg with hollandaise sauce and chips with two excellent coffees only cost ninety-one pesos in cash or about fifteen dollars Canadian. The return to the hotel was on foot. Once back at our rooms at three-fifteen, the washroom trashcan was filled with hot water and a little soap at and yours truly proceeded to wash the recent accumulation of dust from the car with today's soiled underwear. The inside and floor were done to perfection as well. A fresh bucket and a second pair of underwear were used to remove the water spots and to polish the paint.

This was done at six-forty and the iPad was used to send Pat an email, to delete unwanted mail, and to review the day's species. Hank bought a coffee and I sat down with him at the dining room table and we both worked on our gadgets to get the recent news on rarities at home. Pictures of Straneck's Tyrannulet were downloaded after checking the identification of Spinetails. The Tyrannulets looked a great

deal like those seen at Las Palmas except for the bold white supercillary and their calls were unlike those that were heard. An orange soft drink was put on the room bill due to thirst at around seven-thirty. Marcel Gavensky of birding BA@gmail.com was then written about the Snowy Sheathbill. Hank and I returned to the room at eight o'clock and the amount of cash spent so far was tallied at $390 US that includes the $75 loaned to Hank, and 2, 028.12 pesos, which converts to $338.50 Canadian. The day's memoirs were underway at nine o'clock or so and finished at three minutes past ten. Meanwhile, Hank was watching a soccer game on the television set. March 23: The first awakening of the day was at four-thirty on the twenty-third and yours truly went back to sleep but was wide-awake again at six o'clock. Hank too was awake and we prepared for the day and wandered over to have a sit down breakfast, which was included in the hotel's fee. The food was simply carbs such as bread, cake, and croissants and washed down with orange juice and two cups of coffee. The destination today was the famous Buenos Aires Costenero Sur Reserve and we were underway at six-thirty. Traffic was light due to it being a Sunday and the drive took about twenty minutes, thus we were almost an hour early. The exit from the autopista is well signed for Avendia Ing Huergo. Keep in the left lane and follow the ramp down to the street, turning left at the stoplight. Follow the wide street

keeping right and turn right again onto Villaflor at the roundabout and carry on over the bridge and around the treed boulevard past three sets of stoplights to Avendia Dr. Tristan Achaval Rodriguez. Turn right again on the two-lane street to the gates about three-tenths of a kilometer away. The car was parked on the road outside the main gate, as there is no parking within the park itself. A stroll took place a

short way from the car along the avenue and next to the gate to look for birds. Of course little was seen. A wait took place in the car from seven-thirty when yours truly began to tally the amount spent on the trip. The sidewalk on the avenue outside the park was full of people selling handmade items and food stalls. Not unlike a circus in fact. The downtown core is beautiful with glass-sided high rises The gates opened at eight at we were walking down the entrance way at that time. Birds were scarce throughout the park due to the number of joggers, bicyclists, and walkers et cetera. No dogs were allowed in the reserve, which was a nice change. Saltators a female White-winged Becard, a Red-eyed "Chivi" Vireo, and a Checkered Woodpecker that was seen well for a short duration were the only birds of interest. The sun at noon was fairly warm and the flannel coat had to be removed at about eleven o’clock. Hank rushed back to the car

because he was feeling light headed even though we we're only a hundred meters from the entrance. Yours truly strolled back but saw little, reaching the car at two o’clock. We decided to visit the airport at this time because Hank wanted to withdraw more pesos even though none were really required at this

time. We also wanted to check out the availability of gas stations for the final fill-up and there were two, including a Shell. The Illegro Restaurant was chosen out of the two available cafés for lunch, as McDonald's was not up to standard for the vegetarian. The meal consisted of an orange soft drink, coffee, a ham and cheese sandwich with a lemon tart for dessert that was paid with Visa amounting to

one hundred and seventy-three pesos. Yours truly also paid the parking fee that cost thirty-nine pesos in cash. The four tolls in both directions took thirty-six pesos in cash from my pocket. The hotel was returned to at three in the afternoon and Pat was dropped a short line and the unwanted email was deleted. The

autobiography was underway at ten minutes past four and finished at three minutes past five due in part to falling asleep while writing. The work on gathering the costs of each day of the trip was underway immediately after and done at six thirty-seven. Further prices were required such as prepaid hotels and the flight.

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Views of Buenos Aires from Costenero Sur

Hank and I went to dinner in the hotel at seven-fifteen and yours truly ordered a steak and rice and a cup of coffee with both of us ordering the caramel flan for dessert. The total of one hundred and eighty-five point twelve pesos for my portion of the meal was placed on my Visa.

The meal was over at around eight and we waited for the night shift person to arrive but after fifteen minutes I asked that we pay in the morning. The day shift fellow changed his mine and the bill was paid. Most of the night until eleven o'clock was spent on working out an approximate cost of the trip coming to $5,278.79 Canadian, March 24: The first awakening of the twenty-fourth day of March was at four-thirty as I was experiencing diarrhea and woke again for two more squats on the toilet in the preceding hours. Hank too was heard visiting the washroom several times during the night. Yours truly went back to sleep between bouts and was wide-awake again at six o'clock. Hank was also awake at that time and we packed our luggage and carried it to the car. One of Pat's diarrhea pills was taken at that time. Hank and I then wandered back to have a sit down breakfast,

which was included in the hotel's fee. The staff was late and the only food that was prepared was a few croissants, coffee, and orange juice. The staff appeared at seven and a few more carbs were eaten before leaving for Costenero Sur at seven-thirty. Hank paid the final hotel bill of 1,840 pesos. Yours truly was behind the wheel and Hank paid the eighteen pesos worth of tolls en route. Traffic was light due to Mondays also being a weekly holiday in Argentina and the drive took twenty minutes, thus we were only ten minutes early. The car was parked on the road outside the main gate and the final touch-up was made to the rear bumper and wax was applied, cut from the hotels candle. An open stretch

of water was noticed for the first time along the promenade and a stroll took place a short way from the car along Avendia Dr. Tristan Achaval Rodriguez where we discovered many White-tufted Grebes, Common Moorhens, and a single Yellow-billed Teal. The gates had been open for perhaps twenty minutes when we returned and we took the route used to return to the entrada yesterday. There were far

fewer people but numbers built after two hours or so. However, birds were still scarce and the best seen were excellent views of an Epaulette Oriole, another Checkered Woodpecker, and a Chivi Vireo at eye level. Although early in the day when playing the tape for Many-colored Rush-Tyrant and Wren-like Rushbird, none responded.

Views of Buenos Aires from Costenero Sur

My stomach was still feeling uncomfortable and when three filthy outdoor toilets came into view both of us dashed in to rid our bodies of what we assumed to be bad flan eaten at the hotel last night. This must have been the culprit as it was the only alike food we shared. The sun at noon was very warm with no cooling breeze as was experienced yesterday. The walk back to the car that began at around ten

o'clock was uncomfortable warm likely in part to the illness and the accompanying dehydration. The birding was extremely slow and it was two o’clock when arriving at the vehicle.

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Hank took care of the driving back to the airport while yours truly paid the equal amount of eighteen pesos in cash at the tolls. Twenty minutes later we were gathered the parking ticket at the gate and proceed to a local gas station and Hank paid to fill the tank with two hundred and sixty point sixty-eight pesos cash because the Visa machine did not accept his card. The rental was then parked at Lot A on

the ramp leading to the underground parking, third position from the end on the right. Hank took off for the terminal while yours truly took the tripod apart and packed the bag in preparation for the flight. The terminal was next in line where Hank was waiting near the MacDonald's. It was only three o'clock so yours truly strolled off to the washroom where my underwear, socks, and T-shirt were changed and my face and underarms washed. I then had a pee only to soil my new

underwear when pushing out the last drops. The toilet was then revisited for another bout of diarrhea and the underwear removed and washed in the sink. The remainder of the trip home was without underwear. The McDonald's was then chosen for lunch and yours truly ordered a McChicken sandwich with bacon and a large coffee. Hank had fries.

The Visa machine would not accept my card so the bill was paid with the last Argentina cash in my picker, some fifty-six pesos, which was about fifteen short of the bill. The girl allowed me to have the meal regardless. The fast-food meal was polished off at around four o’clock and an hour passed relaxing on the bench. Andre, the Sixt's agent was looked for from four-fifty to five-fifteen with no one showing. The

emergency numbers for reaching Sixt were phoned by a woman at the information counter who was unable to get anyone to answer. At five-thirty I asked the Hertz car rental agent what I should do and he suggested leaving the keys in the car with one door unlocked. At five forty-five I found the iPad now had a dead battery and borrowed Hank's iPod and wandered out to the car and videotaped the day's

newspaper and ran it continually over the rental’s entire surface, trunk, tire, interior, and odometer. The damage sheet handed to Hank when picking-up the car showed damage where ours occurred on the rear bumper, driver's side thus this could be discounted. The parking ticket remained in the car as well. The agent was still not present at five-thirty so we proceeded to the check-in counter to gather out boarding passes. Andre's cell number was called at the information booth when returning, again no answer. The upstairs area was then occupied near the terminal gates where a solo wait ensued while Hank wandered around. The gate number did not appear for the flight by seven-fifteen and as all International gates were through the same portal, I moved through and had the bags et cetera scanned. Another wait ensued inside for a few minutes until the

gate number appeared and I was seated at the gate minutes later. Perhaps an hour passed before boarding was announced and everyone's bags were inspected again by hand before being allowed on the plane. Flight UA 818 took off on time at nine-thirty. The last of Tom Hank's Captain Phillips was enjoyed prior to enjoying a chicken dinner with

salad, a bun, dessert and apple juice and water. Another small bout of diarrhea occurred soon after. Part of a newer Sc-Fi movie was watched before taking another diarrhea pill and the double dose of Effexor before falling asleep. Interestingly most of the night passed in the dream state before waking one hour before landing at Houston at five o’clock.

Ezeiza Airport Restaurants March 25: A simple breakfast was served of diced fruit and a croissant with orange juice and coffee on the morning of March 25 prior to landing at Houston at six o’clock. Some of the new Lone Ranger movie with Johnny Depp was enjoyed before landing. The fellow in line-up at Customs chosen was extremely slow taking up to ten or more minutes per customer. Although well aware of the consequences I told him when my turn finally came that he was slow and that people were attempting to make connections. He said he was only doing his job and that I could have queued in another line but of course to join the end of another line would have been as time

consuming. The tongue-lashing got me through in less than a minute. The bags were scanned again and yours truly was sitting at Wendy's at seven o'clock where a large coffee and a breakfast egg muffin with

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bacon was charged to Visa at five dollars and eighty-two cents American. The food was eaten at a table before moving on to the gate to begin charging the iPad. The Wi-Fi wasn't working as usual and a lady from Vancouver sent an email to Pat saying that the flights so far were on time. Interestingly, the husband told us that BC medical insurance will allow residents to be out of country for one year with full

coverage (except in the States). Three years must past before repeating the procedure; they had just spent a year in South America. Hank appeared and we chatted until boarding at eight o'clock. Flight UA 729 was to leave at eight forty-two bur was a little late but made up time. There was no food or entertainment and courteously I slept a great deal on this five and a half-hour flight. The uncomfortable stomach and

diarrhea had ceased. The flight landed on time at Calgary at ten minutes past twelve and Customs was instantaneous. The gate was occupied at twelve-twenty and Chili's was chosen for lunch where a quesadilla with a small salad, French fries, and a coffee were selected from the menu. The

restaurant's Wi-Fi was working and Pat was emailed followed by Sixt to tell the company where the rental was situated and the lack of service. The movie made of the car was sent but clipped and Hank was emailed to ask to send the entire piece and to forward the same letter to Clara at Sixt. A few rare bird alerts were inspected prior to paying the bill of twenty-one dollars and eighty-three cents Canadian

on Visa that included a four-dollar tip. The gate was then occupied at around two o'clock where yesterday and today's autobiography was brought up to date at four-seventeen. This included adding recent bills to the trip expenses. Flight AC 8552 was to depart at five twenty-five but was a little late and left at five-

forty on its two-hour cruise. The Bombardier Q400 reached Victoria International at six-fifteen. It was raining as expected. Pat was waiting in the terminal and the homeward drive took twenty-minutes, arriving at five minutes past six in the evening. The suite case was unpacked at that time and yours truly had a much-needed bath at seven o’clock. Two bananas were wolfed down and

some of my wife’s wild rice salad. The cost of the trip was worked on using the Visa bill and Clara was written again about location of the car and the lack of service and unanswered phones re the “meet and greet” service until ten o’clock. The double dose of Effexor was taken

at that time and yours truly climbed into bed and fell asleep instantly. OVERVIEW:

Argentina is a safe country to visit with excellent accommodation and well-signed roads in general. However, when most needed in many city centers they all but disappear making it difficult to find accommodations and banks et cetera. Tolls of five to thirteen pesos are prevalent in the vicinity of Buenos Aires with the one or two booths along major highways. There are many police checkpoints but seldom are you stopped and when you are they usually only ask you to turn on the lights or

wipers and you pass through quickly. Police are very friendly in the country and ticketing is all but non-existent. Speed limits on highways vary between one hundred and one hundred and twenty kilometers an hour. Police are virtually absent on highways and speeds are not monitored often. Drivers in general obey speed limits but driving through towns can put one on edge to some extent with cars jostling for position and the fact that most street corners lack lights or stop signs. One problem that exists in Argentina is Visa acceptance, most notably at gas stations other than Shell and Esso that are far and few between in Missiones. The Visa machines in some stores will not accept foreign cards. Plenty of Argentine Pesos should be brought to Argentina though ATM machines are available almost everywhere. Cash of 175 pesos is required for Iguaçu Falls with an additional 40 pesos for parking. Perhaps because of the season and lack of rain, we found birds to be rather scarce compared to other Neotropical countries. Car rental is said to be straightforward though expensive but we rented with Sixt due to their

lower price and found the company to be unreliable with pitiable customer service and we highly recommend not renting from them. Food if bought at moderately priced restaurants was safe and very delicious and we recommend the establishments mentioned in this report. Make sure that you purchase the new reprocity fee of $75 and International Driver’s License prior to boarding your first flight. COST in Canadian funds for three weeks:

FLIGHT: $1,525.11; VISA: $82.00; International Drivers License $37.19: CAR RENTAL $1,494.38;

ACCOMMODATIONS: $2857.45; Gas: $791.61; FOOD: $555.54; PERSONAL AND PARK FEES: $127.10; TOLLS $27.87. TOTAL COST: $6,173.87 but with shared costs between two persons equals $5,668.74

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