Plan Your Trip 12

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.

So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

Seoul

Thomas O’Malley, Phillip Tang

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ContentsContents

Welcome to Seoul ���������4

Seoul’s Top 10 ������������������ 6

What’s New �������������������� 13

Need to Know �����������������14

First Time Seoul �������������16

Top Itineraries ��������������� 18

If You Like… ��������������������20

Month by Month ������������23

With Kids ������������������������ 25

Like a Local ��������������������26

For Free �������������������������� 27

Courses & Tours ������������28

Hiking������������������������������30

Eating ���������������������������32Drinking & Nightlife ����36Entertainment �������������39Shopping ��������������������� 42Sports & Activities ���� 45

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand Seoul 169

Survival Guide 205

Seoul Maps 228

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Seoul 48

Transport �������������������� 206

Directory A–Z �������������� 210

Language ��������������������� 216

Index �����������������������������222

Seoul Today ����������������� 170

History ���������������������������172

Food & Drink �����������������177

Religion & Culture ������� 189

Architecture ����������������� 196

Arts ������������������������������ 200

Neighbourhoods at a Glance ���������������������� 50Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu ���������������������� 52

Myeong-dong & Jung-gu �������������������������� 75

Western Seoul ���������������88

Itaewon & Yongsan-gu �������������������101

Gangnam & Southern Seoul ������������114

Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul �������������� 128

Northern Seoul ������������ 135

Day Trips from Seoul ��������������������������145

Sleeping ���������������������159

EA

RT

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HU

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SE

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ON

EP

HO

TO / G

ET

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AG

ES ©

WID

BIB

TAYA P

HO

TO / S

HU

TT

ER

STOC

K ©

NorthernSeoul

Gwanghwamun& Jongno-gu

WesternSeoul

Dongdaemun& Eastern

SeoulMyeong-dong

& Jung-gu

Itaewon &Yongsan-gu

Gangnam& Southern

Seoul

p135

p128

p114

p101

p88p75

p52

(left) Myeong-dong p75 The city’s shopping centre�

(above) Lotus Lantern Festival p23 Celebrat-ing Buddha’s birthday�

(right) Namsan p77 Peaceful mountain park�

Top ItinerariesDay OneGwanghwamun & Jongno-gu (p52)

M Start your tour of Gyeongbokgung at the palace’s expertly restored main

gate, Gwanghwamun, where you can watch the pageantry of the changing of the guard on the hour. Explore the winding streets of Bukchon Hanok Village and Insa-dong, pausing for refreshments at a cafe or tea-house in between browsing the equally ubiq-uitous art galleries and craft stores in these areas. If you finish early, continue on to the cool converted hanok cafes of Ikseon-dong.

Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu (p52)

R Join the afternoon tour of Changdeokgung, which also in-

cludes the Huwon (Secret Garden). Explore the wooded grounds of the venerable shrine Jongmyo, housing the spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and queens.

Myeong-dong & Jung-gu (p75)

N Take your seat at a fun nonverbal show such as Nanta or Jump. Be

dazzled by the bright lights and retail over-load of Myeong-dong and neighbouring Namdaemun Market, where the stalls stay open all night.

Day TwoItaewon & Yongsan-gu (p101)

M Survey centuries of Korean history and art by selectively dipping into the

vast collection of the National Museum of Korea. Shuttle over to the west side of Yongsan-gu to enjoy the contemporary art and architecture at the splendid Leeum Samsung Museum of Art.

Myeong-dong & Jung-gu (p75)

R Wander the lively, multicultural lanes around Itaewon and the more

boutiquey Hannam-dong, then for a post-lunch workout, hike up Namsan to N Seoul Tower. It’s not a difficult climb, but if you don’t have the energy there’s a cable car or a bus. It’s very romantic watching the sunset from atop this central mountain as the night lights of Seoul flicker to life. Freshen up with a steam in the saunas and a soak in the tubs at the Dragon Hill Spa & Resort.

Itaewon & Yongsan-gu (p101)

N Explore Itaewon after dinner for a fun night of hopping between cafes,

bars and dance clubs.

Dinner Sample Korean street food at Gwangjang Market (p132).

Lunch Sample legendary dumplings at Koong (p66), or have a vegetarian feast at Osegyehyang (p68).

Dinner Savour delicious bibimbap at Mokmyeoksanbang (p82).

Lunch Tuck into Southern American barbecue at Linus’ BBQ (p108).

18 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Day ThreeNorthern Seoul (p135)

M Reflect on the struggles and sacri-fices of Koreans to overcome colo-

nialism and create a modern country at Seodaemun Prison History Hall. After-wards, hike up nearby Inwangsan along Seoul City Wall for fabulous views of the city, surreal rock formations and the other-worldly shamanistic rituals of Inwangsan Guksadang.

Northern Seoul (p135)

R Keep on shadowing the Seoul City Wall down to Buam-dong and over

Bukaksan and to Seongbuk-dong, a hike of around two hours. Catch your breath and rest your feet in the beautiful teahouse

Suyeon Sanbang, and the equally serene surrounds of the temple Gilsang-sa.

Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul (p128)

N If your hiking legs haven’t given out, it’s only another hour or so

following the City Wall over Naksan and down to Dongdaemun, where the night market will just be starting to crank up (al-ternatively, take the subway). Admire the 21st-century architectural styling of Dong-

Day FourWestern Seoul (p88)

M Both contemporary art and pano-ramic views up and down the Han

can be enjoyed at 63 Sky Art Gallery on Yeouido. Hire a bicycle in Hangang River- side Park and pedal out to Seonyudo Park on an island in the Han River.

Western Seoul (p88)

R If you’re interested in contem-porary architecture, then Ewha

Womans University’s stunning entrance building and KT&G SangsangMadang in Hongdae are both worth seeing. Hong-dae and neighbouring Sangsu-dong and Yeonnam-dong are brimming with hip hang-outs; if it’s Saturday you can shop for quirky, original craft souvenirs at the Free Market or Dongjin Market. A late- afternoon visit to the atmospheric Bud-dhist temple Bongeun-sa can segue nicely

into browsing the boutiques of Apgu-jeong, Cheongdam or Garosu-gil.

Gangnam & Southern Seoul (p114)

N After dinner pitch up at the Banpo Hangang Park by 9pm to see the

Dinner Gorge on rice-cake comfort food at I Love Sindangdong (p132).

Lunch Fuel up on elegant dumplings at Jaha Sonmandoo (p142).

Dinner Treat yourself at Jungsik (p123), or go cheapo at Banpo Romantic Moonlight Market (p121).

Lunch Pick your own seafood and have it cooked at the Noryangjin Fish Market (p91).

19PLAN

YOUR TRIP T

OP

ITIN

eR

AR

IeS

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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Behind the Scenes

AUTHOR THANKSThomas O’MalleyThanks to my esteemed coauthors and editors, to Yoon (ique Universe), to Mr and Mrs Kim for their hospitality and gourmet breakfasts, Leo, Paris Baguette’s coffee, all the beers at Magpie Brewing, and most of all, to Ophelia.

Phillip TangA huge thanks to Octavio Nájera for making Seoul dance and sing, ganando como siempre. Mariah Lee and friends for workshopping Seoul tips and the dakgalbi city escape. Thanks to Félix Barría and Jules Thivent for makgeolli, galbi and blossom-flavoured chips, and Da Sel Lee and

Jenny for Korean hospitality. Thank you to Megan Eaves and the cowriters for being patient and great virtual workmates. Thank you Vek Lewis, Fiona Ross and Francisco Vargas for additional virtual support.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlay-son BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifica-tion’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Bukchon Hanok Village, Curioso/Shutterstock ©

220 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS BOOKThis 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Seoul guidebook was researched and written by Thomas O’Malley and Phillip Tang. Trent Holden and Simon Richmond wrote the previous edition. This guidebook was produced by the following:Curator Jenna Myers

Destination Editor Megan EavesSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanProduct Editor Kate JamesSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Meri BlazevskiAssisting Editors Barbara Delissen, Andrea Dobbin,

Samantha Forge, Jennifer Hattam, Ali Lemer, Char-lotte Orr, Sarah Stewart, Simon WilliamsonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jennifer Carey, Robert Jagoda, Andi Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Jaeyoon Shin, Mike Smith, Victoria Smith, Clara Winardi

221BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Index63 Sky Art Gallery 91313 Art Project 119-20

Aaccessible travel 210accommodation 15, 159-68

language 216activities 23-4, 45-7, see

also individual neighbourhoods

air travel 206-7alcohol 37, 183-4, see

also beer, makgeolliAlternative Art Space Noon

(Suwon) 151Ansan 31Apgujeong, see Gangnam &

Southern SeoulArario Museum in SPACE

62-3architecture 21, 196-9

contemporary 20, 199Gangnam 121Northern Seoul 136

area codes 213Arko Art Center 139art galleries 21, 64, see also

individual neighbourhoods

arts 200-4Artside 64Artsonje Center 64ATMs 212

BBank of Korea Money

Museum 81Banpo Bridge Rainbow

Fountain 119Banpo Hangang Park 119barbecue 178bargaining 17, 43

baseball 39-40, 45basketball 39bathrooms 214beer 109Beomjongru 59bibimbap 178bicycle travel, see cyclingBomun-sa (Ganghwado) 156Bongeun-sa 119, 28, 194books 170, 204

architecture 197culture 195food 181history 173

Bosingak 65Bridge of No Return

(DMZ) 146Buddhism 190-1budget, see planningBukaksan 31Bukchon, see Gwanghwamun

& Jongno-guBukchon Hanok Village 7, 57,

67, 6, 67, 230-1Bukchon Traditional Culture

Center 57Bukhansan National Park

156, 30bus travel 15, 207-9business hours 33, 37,

43, 212

Ccable car 77car travel 15, 209Caribbean Bay 152cell phones 14, 213Central Buddhist Museum 59ceramics 201Changdeokgung 7, 56, 7Changgyeonggung 138-9Changuimun 139-41Cheondogyo Temple 65Cheong-gye-cheon 11, 60,

11, 60Cheong-gye-cheon

Museum 131

Cheongwadae Sarangchae 62

Chichipopo Library 98children, travel with 25Children’s Grand Park 131-2Choong Ang High School 63Christianity 191cinema 170, 203-4Citizens Hall 79-80climate 15, 23-4clothing 16Confucianism 190consulates 211costs 14, 33, 37, 160courses 28-9credit cards 212culture 170-1, 189-95Culture Station Seoul

284 80currency 14, 212customs regulations 210cycling 15, 46, 93, 208

DDaehan Empire History

Museum 78Daehangno, see Northern

SeoulDaelim Contemporary Art

Museum 61Daeseong-dong (DMZ) 146Daeungjeon 59dance 39, 204dangers 213Deoksugung 78Deoksugung Stone Wall

Road 79disabilities, travellers with 210discount cards 210DMZ 12, 146-7, 12Dongdaemun Design Plaza

& Park 130, 130Dongdaemun & Eastern

Seoul 51, 128-34, 247accommodation 167-8drinking & nightlife

129, 133

entertainment 133-4food 129, 132-3highlights 128-30shopping 129, 134sights 130-2transport 129

Dongdaemun (Heunginjimun) 12, 12

Dongdaemun History Museum 130

Dongdaemun Stadium Memorial 130

Dora Observatory (Dorasan) 147

Dorasan 147Dorasan Peace Park

(Dorasan) 147drinking & nightlife 36-8,

see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbourhoods

drinks 183-4driving 209

Eeastern Seoul, see

Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul

Edae, see Western Seoulelectricity 210embassies 211emergencies 211

language 217entertainment 39-41, see

also Entertainment subindex

etiquette 17, 37, 181, 193Eungbongsan Park 131events 23-4Everland Resort 152Ewha Womans University 91

Ffashion 42, 195festivals 23-4, 40film 170, 203-4

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

see also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P225

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P226

3 ENTERTAINMENT P226

7 SHOPPING P226

4 SLEEPING P227

2 ACTIVITIES P227

222 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Folk Museum 117food 32-5, 177-88, see

also Eating subindex, individual neighbourhoods

courses 28-9glossary 185-8, 217-18

football 40, 90Football Faentasium 90fortune-tellers 195free attractions 27

GGahoe Minhwa

Workshop 57Gallery Hyundai 64Gallery Simon 64Ganghwa Dolmen Park

(Ganghwado) 156-7Ganghwa History Museum

(Ganghwado) 157Ganghwa Natural

History Museum (Ganghwado) 157

Ganghwa Peace Observatory (Ganghwado) 157

Ganghwado 155-8Gangnam & Southern

Seoul 51, 114-27, 114, 250-1, 252, 248-9

accommodation 166-7drinking & nightlife 115,

123-5entertainment 125food 115, 121-3highlights 114-17shopping 115, 125-7sights 116-20sports & activities 127transport 115

Gangnam Style ‘Horse Dance’ Stage 120

Gangnam Style Sculpture 119

Gapgot Dondae (Ganghwado) 157

gardens 21Geunjeongjeon 55Gijeong-dong (DMZ) 146Gilsang-sa 141golf 45Gonsindang 58Goryeogungji Palace

(Ganghwado) 156Gungisi Relics Exhibition

Hall 80Gwanghwamun & Jongno-

gu 50, 52-74, 52, 232-3, 234-5

accommodation 162-3

drinking & nightlife 53, 69-71

entertainment 71-2food 53, 65-9highlights 52-3, 54-60shopping 53, 72-3sights 54-65sports & activities 74transport 53walks 67

Gwanghwamun Square 62Gwangjang Market 9, 8Gyeongbokgung 54-5,

54, 189Gyeonggi Provincial

Museum (Suwon) 150Gyeonghuigung 61-2Gyeongui Line Book

Street 90Gyeongui Line Forest Park

13, 90

HHakgojae 64Hanagae Beach

(Muuido) 157Hangaram Art Museum 118Hangaram Design

Museum 118hanok 57, 67, 79. 197-8Hanyangdoseong

Exhibition Hall 141health 211Heunghwamun

(Gyeonghuigung) 62Heunginjimun 131Heungnyemun 54hiking 21, 26, 27, 30-1history 172-6Hoam Art Museum 152holidays 213Homo Hill 110Hongdae 10, 10, see

also Western SeoulHongneung Arboretum 131Huwon 56Hwabong Gallery 64Hwaseong (Suwon) 149-50Hwaseong Haenggung

(Suwon) 150Hyangwonjeong 55Hyehwamun 141

IIhwa Mural Village 138Ikseon-dong, see

Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu

Incheon 151-5, 154

Incheon Art Platform (Incheon) 153

Incheon Fish Market (Incheon) 153

Incheon Landing Op-eration Memorial Hall (Incheon) 153

Incheon Metropolitan City Museum (Incheon) 153

Incheon Open Port Museum (Incheon) 153

Injeongjeon 56Insa-dong, see

Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu

insurance 211internet access 212internet resources,

see websitesInwangsan 31, 140, 140Inwangsan Guksadang 138IPark Museum of Art

(Suwon) 151Itaewon Bugundang

History Park 105Itaewon & Yongsan-gu 51,

101-13, 101, 244-5, 246accommodation 166drinking & nightlife 102,

109-12entertainment 112food 102, 105-9highlights 101-4shopping 102, 112-13sights 103-5sports & activities 113transport 102

itineraries 18-19

JJayu Park (Incheon) 153Jean Art Gallery 64Jeoldusan Martyrs’

Shrine 90-1Jeondeung-sa

(Ganghwado) 158Jeonggwanheon 78Jeongjeon 58jjimjil-bang 45Jogye-sa 59Joint Security Area

(JSA) 146Jongmyo 58, 58Jongmyo Daeje 23Jongno-gu, see

Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu

Jongno Tower 65Jung-gu, see Myeong-dong

& Jung-guJunghwajeon 78

KK-Drama 22Kim, Young-sam 175kimchi 180Korea Furniture

Museum 137, 137Korean Emigration History

Museum (Incheon) 153Korean Folk Village

(Suwon) 150Korean Stone Art

Museum 138Korean War 173K-Pop 22, 25, 120, 202K-Star Road 120KT&G Sangsang-

Madang 92Kukje 64K-Wave Experience 119

Llanguage 14, 17, 216-19

courses 29Lee, Myung-bak 175Leeum Samsung Museum

of Art 106LGBTIQ+ travellers 37,

70, 212literature 204local life 26Lock Museum 139Lotte World 117, 117Lotte World Tower 13,

118, 199Lotus Lantern Festival

9, 23, 9

Mmagazines 210makgeolli 37, 183-4maps 212markets 13, 44Marronnier Park 141media 210medical services 212medical tourism 120MMCA Deoksugung 80MMCA Seoul 63mobile phones 14, 213Modern Design

Museum 91-2money 14, 212Mongchon Museum 116Moonlight Rainbow

Fountain Viewpoint 120motorcycle travel 209mountains 21movies 170, 203-4

223IN

DEX F-M

Mr Toilet House (Suwon) 150-1

Mullae Arts Village 98Museum of Gugak 118-19museums 21, 22, 27, see

also individual museums

music 39, 40, 201-3Muuido 157Myeong-dong & Jung-gu

50-1, 75-87, 75, 238-9accommodation 163-5drinking & nightlife 76,

83-4entertainment 84-6food 76, 81-3highlights 75-6, 77-8shopping 76, 86-7sights 77-81sports & activities 87transport 76walks 85

Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral 81

NN Seoul Tower 9, 77, 8Naksan Park 141Nakseonjae 56Nam Jun Paik Art Centre

(Suwon) 150Namdaemun Market 82Namsan 9, 77Namsan Botanical

Garden 80Namsangol Hanok

Village 79National Assembly 92National Children’s

Museum 61National Folk Museum of

Korea 55National Hangeul

Museum 105National Museum of Korea

103, 103National Museum of

Korean Contemporary History 61

newspapers 210nightlife, see drinking &

nightlifeNorthern Seoul 51, 135-44,

135, 254-5accommodation 168

drinking & nightlife 136, 142-3

entertainment 143-4food 136, 142highlights 135-7shopping 144sights 137-41sports & activities 144walks 140

Noryangjin Fish Market 13, 91

OOil Tank Culture Park 90Olympic Park 116opening hours 33, 37,

43, 212

Ppalaces 20, 197Park, Chung-hee 174Park, Won-soon 170-1, 176parks 21pharmacies 212planning 16-17

budgeting 14, 27, 33, 37, 160

children, travel with 25festivals & events 23-4itineraries 18-19local life 26repeat visitors 13Seoul basics 14-15Seoul’s neighbourhoods

50-1travel seasons 15, 23-4websites 14

plastic surgery 171politics 170-1population 171postal services 213pottery 201public holidays 213Pyeongando Jokbal

Jip 132

Rradio 210religion 171, 189-92Ryugaheon 64

Ssafe travel 213Sajik Daeje 24Sajikdan 62Sajin Changgo 131Samcheong Park 141

Samcheong-dong, see Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu

Samsung Child Education & Culture Center 106

Samsung D’Light 118Sejong Gallery 62Sejong, King 62, 175-6SeMA Gyeonghuigung

Museum of Art 62Seodaemun Independence

Park 141Seodaemun Prison History

Hall 139Seokjojeon 78Seongbuk-dong 13, 254-5,

see also Northern SeoulSeongsu-dong 13, 132, see

also Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul

Seonjam Museum 141Seonjeongneung 120Seonyudo Park 92Seoul Animation Center 81Seoul Arts Center 118Seoul Arts Space -

Mullae 98Seoul Baekje Museum 116Seoul Calligraphy

Museum 118Seoul Central Mosque 105Seoul City Hall 80Seoul City Wall 10, 77Seoul City Wall Museum

131, 11Seoul Dulle-gil 30Seoul Forest 131Seoul Fringe Festival 24Seoul K-Medi Center 131Seoul Lantern Festival

24, 60Seoul Metropolitan

Library 81Seoul Museum of Art 80Seoul Museum of

History 61Seoul Olympic Museum

13, 116Seoul Plaza 81Seoullo 7017 79Sewol ferry disaster 171shamanism 192shopping 26, 42-4, see also

Shopping subindex, individual neighbourhoods

language 217-18Simsimheon 63Sinchon, see Western

Seoulskiing 46, 47

smoking 210SMTown coexartium 13, 118soccer 40, 90SOMA 116Some Sevit 118Southern Namsan

Circuit 77southern Seoul, see

Gangnam & Southern Seoul

spas 45sports 39-40, 45-7, see

also Sports & Activities subindex, individual neighbourhoods

Stairway Flea Market 105Starfield Library 13subway 15, 209Sun Art Center 64Sungnyemun 81Suwon 148-51, 148Suwon Hwaseong Museum

(Suwon) 151

Ttaekwondo 40, 46Tangent 118Tapgol Park 63taxes 17, 43taxis 15, 209tea 183telephone services 213-14temples 21-2, 197templestays 28, 59, 119theatre 39, 204Third Infiltration Tunnel

(Dorasan) 147time 14, 214

language 218tipping 17toilets 214tombs 197tourist information 14, 214tours 29, 209train travel 207travel to/from Seoul 15,

206-8travel within Seoul 15

208-9Tteok & Kitchen Utensil

Museum 63TV 210

UUnhyeongung 61

Vvaccinations 211vegetarian travellers

33, 179

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

224

IND

EX M-V

visas 14, 214visual arts 200-1volunteering 214

Wwalks

Bukchon Hanok Village 67, 67

Inwangsan Shamanist Walk 140, 140

Namsan Circuit 85, 85War Memorial of Korea

104, 104War & Women’s Human

Rights Museum 90Waryongmyo 77water 211weather 15, 23-4websites 14

accommodation 15entertainment 40food 33music 204sports & activities 46

West Gate (Ganghwado) 157-8

Western Seoul 51, 88-100, 88, 240-1, 242

accommodation 165-6drinking & nightlife

89, 95-7entertainment 89, 98-9food 89, 92-5highlights 88-9shopping 99-100sights 90-2sports & activities 100transport 89

Whanki Museum 138wi-fi 212Wolmido (Incheon) 153Wolmi Observatory

(Incheon) 153Wolmi Park (Incheon) 153work 214-15World Cup Park 91World Peace Gate 116, 198

YYeongnyeongjeon 58Yeouido, see Western Seoul Yongsan-gu, see Itaewon &

Yongsan-gu

5 EATING63 Buffet Pavilion 952046 Pansteak 69

AAhn 95Andong Jjimdak 83Aoitori Bakery 94

BBad Farmers 122Baker’s Table 108-9Balwoo Gongyang 69Balwoo Gongyang Kong 69Banpo Romantic Moonlight

Market 121BC Gogitjib 106Bibigo Gyejeolbabsang

68-9Brooklyn the Burger

Joint 121Bua 108Busan Ilbeonji 95

CCasablanca

Sandwicherie 105Chang Hwa Dang 68Cheonjinpoja 65-6Chosun Gimbap 65Chung-jeong-gak 82Cine de Chef 122Ciuri Ciuri 95Congdu 83Coreanos Kitchen 106, 122

DDadabok (Incheon) 154Ddobagi Chicken 94Dejangjangi Hwadeog-

Pijajip 68Deongjang Yesool 142Dongdaemun Market 133Dongmu Bapsang 94Dongwon Jip 81-2Downtowner 107

EEuro Gourmet 66

FFell & Cole 94

GGangnam Gyoja 122GastroTong 66Gati 123Geumwang Dongaseu 142Gilbert’s Burgers &

Fries 122

Gino’s NY Pizza 108Gogung 68Gosang 83Gwanghwamun

Dduckam 66Gwanghwamun Jip 65Gwangjang Market 132Gyeongju Restaurant 94Gyeyeolsa Chicken 142

HHadongkwan 83Hanmiri 66, 123Haru 121HBC Gogitjib 106Himesiya 94Hongik Sutbul

Galbi 94-5Hyehwa Kalguksu 142

II Love Sindangdong 132Ikseon Dimibang 68

JJaha Sonmandoo 142Jilhal Bros 121-2Jirisan 68Jungsik 123Just BLT 107

KKoong 66Korea House 83

LLa Ferme 108Lay Bricks 122Leo’s 108Linus’ BBQ 108

MMaddux Pizza 107Menya Sandaime 94Min’s Kitchen 122Mokmyeoksanbang 82Morococo Cafe 105-6Muwol Table 95Myeong-dong Gyoja 81

NNamdaemun Market 82Namul Meokneun Gom 92Nekkid Wings 108Newijo 68N.Grill 83

Normal by Ryunique 123Noryangjin Fish

Market 91

OOgawa 66Olde Knives 108Onion 132On Ne Sait Jamais 107OR:ER 132-3Osegyehyang 68

PPassion 5 105Pho for You 107Pipit Burger 106-7Plant Bakery 107Plant Cafe & Kitchen 105Potala 82Pyeongando Jokbal Jip 132

RRaw Vega 92Rogpa Tea Stall 65Root 108Ryunique 123

SSamarkand 133Samchi St (Incheon) 154Samwon Garden 123Scoff 142Seasons Table 122Seoureseo Duljjaero

Jalhaneunjip 66, 68Share D Table 133Shim’s Tapas 95Sindang-dong Tteobokki

Town 133Sinpo Market

(Incheon) 154Sinseon Seolnongtang 82Sobok 94Soi Yeonnam 94Song’s Kitchen 66

TTartine 106Tongin Market Box Lunch

Cafe 65Tosokchon 66Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai 92

VVatos 107-8

225IN

DEX V

-EA

TIN

G

WWangjajeong

(Ganghwado) 158Wood and Brick 69, 142Wooraeoak 133

YYeong-yang Centre 83Yeonpo Galbi (Suwon) 151Yongsung Fried Chicken

(Suwon) 151

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

AaA Café 97Against the Machine 111AleDang 70Almaz 110Always Homme 110Amazing Brewing Co 133Anthracite 95Ape Seoul 143Arcade Bar Seoul 96Art C Company 124

BB One 112Baekseju-maeul 71Baesan Warehouse Cafe

133Barcode 70Blacklist 111Blue Star Pub 71Booth 109, 125Bread Blue 96Brew 3.14 70Burn 112

CCafe Castle (Incheon) 155Cafe More 124Café Sukkara 95Cafe the Story 84Caffe Themselves 71Cakeshop 109Caligari Brewing

(Incheon) 155Cha Masineun Tteul 70Channel 1969 96

Club Espresso 143Club MWG 97Club Octagon 123-4Cobbler 69Coffee Bar K 124Coffee Libre 84Comics Shop 71

DDaelim Changgo 133Daeo Sochom 69Dalsaeneun Dalman

Saenggak Handa 70Davansa Teahouse 84Dawon 70Dukes Coffee Showroom

96-7

EEat Me 110Edge, The 84

FFlower Gin 111Fox Wine Bistro 97

GGaepul 143Gopchang Jeongol 96Grand Ole Opry 110Greenmile Coffee 124

HHakrim 143Hello, Stranger 97Hongdae Playground 96

JJungnim Dawon

(Ganghwado) 158

KKeg B 97Kopi Bangasgan 71

LLabris 97Living Room 111

MM2 97Madang Flower Cafe 70-1Made in Pongdang 109Magpie Brewing Co 109Man Pyung 97

Mikkeller Bar 124Miracle 110Mix & Malt 143MK2 69Moon Jar 124Mowmow 111Muldwinda 84

NNakrang Parlour 97Namsan Winery 111NB2 96Neurin Maeul 84, 124

PPet Sounds 111Pongdang 124

QQueen 110

RRose & Crown 112

SSanmotoonge 143Shortbus 71Sik Mool 69-70Slow Garden 143Soap 111Soho 110Sorori Wolhyang 96Southside Parlor 109-10Standing Coffee

Roasters 111Steamers Coffee Factory

124-5Su Noraebang 96Sunset Beach 110Suyeon Sanbang 142-3Suzie Q 96

TTakeout Drawing 112Tea Therapy 71Trance 110

VVenue/ 110

WWalkabout 84Ways of Seeing 111White Rabbit 109Why Not 110

YY.Pot Coffee 111Yri Cafe 97

3 ENTERTAINMENTAll that Jazz 112ArkoPAC 143Boogie Woogie 112Café BBang 99Cinemateque KOFA 99Cinematheque 71-2Club Evans 98DGBD 99FF 98Indie Art-Hall GONG 99Insa-dong Outdoor

Stage 71Jangchung Arena 133-4Jazz Story 143-4Jeongdong Theater 86Jump 86LG Arts Center 125Megabox COEX 125Mellowa 98Mudaeruk 98Musical Chef 72Nanta Theatre Hongdae 99Nanta Theatre Jung-gu 84National Gugak Center 125National Theater of

Korea 84Oh! Zemidong 86Once in a Blue Moon 125Owl’s Rooftop 98Post Territory Ujjeonguk 99Sejong Center for the

Performing Arts 72Seoul Arts Center 125Seoul Namsan

Gugakdang 86Seoul Racecourse 125Seoul Theater Center 144World Cup Stadium 99YES 24 Live Hall 133

7 SHOPPING10 Corso Como Seoul 12610X10 144Åland 87Ando 113Boon the Shop 127Cerawork 73COEX Mall 126Comme des Garcons 112Dapsimni Antiques

Market 134

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

226

IND

EX DR

INK

ING

& N

IGH

TLIFE

D-Cube City 100Dolsilnai 73Dongdaemun Market 134Dongjin Market 100Doota 134Eelskin Shop 113Filipino Sunday Market 144Free Market 99Galleria 126Gallery Art Zone 73Gentle Monster 99Hyundai Department

Store 126Insa-dong Maru 72-3I’Park Mall 113Jilkyungyee 73Jonginamoo 73Joongang Building

C and D 87KCDF Gallery 73Key 100Kukjae Embroidery 73Kyobo Bookshop 72Lab 5 126-7Lotte Department Store 87Lotte Fitin 134Lotte World Mall 126Market m* 86-7Mecenatpolis Mall 100Mik 73Millimetre Milligram 113Mono Collection 72Namdaemun Market 82Object Recycle 100Pleasure Lab 126Primera 86Pyounghwa Clothing

Market 134Sejong Art Market SoSo 72Seoul Folk Flea Market 134Seoul Selection 72Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb

Medicine Market 134S-Factory 134

Shinsegae 86Ssamziegil 73Steve J & Yoni P 126Stylenanda Pink Hotel 86Su;py 134Veronica Effect 100Vinyl & Plastic 113What the Book 113Yido 73Yongsan Crafts

Museum 112Yongsan Electronics

Market 113Yuimaru 72

4 SLEEPINGAn Hostel 162Banyan Tree Club &

Spa 164Bibimbap Guesthouse

162-3Bukchon Maru 163Chi-Woon-Jung 163Come Inn 165Conrad Seoul 165Crib49 164Doo Guesthouse 162Eugene’s House 168Fraser Suites 163Grand Hyatt Seoul 166H Avenue Hotel 167Hanagae Beach Huts

(Muuido) 157Hide & Seek

Guesthouse 162Hostel Korea 11th 162Hotel 8 Hours 163Hotel 28 164Hotel Atti 167Hotel Dono (Suwon) 151Hotel Everrich

(Ganghwado) 158Hotel Shilla 168Hotel the Designers 162

Hwaseong Guesthouse (Suwon) 151

Imperial Palace Hotel 167Inside Backpackers 168IP Boutique Hotel 166Island Garden (Muuido) 157Itaewon G Guest House 166Itaewon Hostel & Inn 166Jeondeung-sa Temple

(Ganghwado) 158JW Marriott Dongdaemun

Square 168K-Grand Hostel

Dongdaemun 167Kimchee Gangnam

Guesthouse 166Kims 168Kpopstay 165La Casa Garosugil 167Lee Kang Ga 165Marigold Hotel 165Marriott Executive

Apartments 165-6Metro Hotel 163Moggoji House 168Nagwonjang Hotel 162Namchidang

(Ganghwado) 158Namsan Guesthouse 163Nine Tree Hotel

Myeong-dong 164Oriens Hotel &

Residences 164Park Hyatt Seoul 167Philstay Hostel B&B 166Plaza 164Rak-Ko-Jae 163Ramada Plaza Hotel Suwon

(Suwon) 151Roi House 165Seoul Olympic Parktel 166Small House Big Door

163-4Splaisir 164Toyoko Inn Seoul

Dongdaemun 167-8

Tria Hotel 167Uhbu’s Guesthouse 167Uljiro Co-Op Residence 168Urbanwood

Guesthouse 165Vista Walkerhill Seoul 168Westin Chosun Seoul 164-5Wowfactor Stay 165Wwoof Korea Guesthouse

162Zaza Backpackers 163

2 ACTIVITIESDong-Lim Knot

Workshop 74Dragon Hill Spa & Resort

113Gangnam City Tour Bus 127International Seon

Center 100Itaewonland 113Kimchi Academy House 87Korea Whal Culture

Association 87Koridoor Tours 113Kukkiwon 127Lotte World Ice Skating

Rink 127O’ngo 74Royal Asiatic Society 74Seoul City Tour Bus 74Seoul Global Cultural

Center 87Seoul Plaza Ice Skating

Rink 87Seoul Sports Complex 127Silloam Sauna 87Spa Lei 127World Cup Spaland 100YBM Sisa 74Yeouido Hangang

Swimming Pool 100Yonsei University 100Yoo’s Family 74

227IN

DEX S

LEE

PIN

G

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MTR/MRT station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Seoul Maps

228 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Eæ Top Sights p60 26 GastroTong ........................... C3 1 Cheong-gye-cheon ............... D7 27 Gwanghwamun Dduckam ... C6 2 Gyeongbokgung....................D3 28 Gwanghwamun Jip ............... C6 29 Hanmiri .................................. D7 æ Sights p61 30 Ogawa .................................... C6 3 Admiral Yi Sun-Sin Statue ... D7 31 Rogpa Tea Stall ..................... A4 4 Artside ....................................C3 32 Song's Kitchen ...................... A3 5 Cheong-gye Plaza ................. D7 33 Tongin Market Box 6 Cheongwadae ....................... C1 Lunch Cafe ......................... B3 7 Cheongwadae Sarangchae . C1 34 Tosokchon ............................. B4 8 Daelim Contemporary Art

Museum ............................. C4 û Drinking & Nightlife p69 9 Gallery Simon ....................... C4 35 Cobbler .................................. B5 10 Gwanghwamun .................... D4 36 Daeo Sochom ....................... B3 11 Gwanghwamun Square ...... D6 37 MK2 ........................................ C3 Gwanghwamun

Square Underground ý Entertainment p71 Exhibition .................. (see 15) 38 Jump ...................................... B7 12 Gyeonghuigung .....................A6 39 Sejong Center for the 13 Heunghwamun ...................... B7 Performing Arts ................. D6 14 Jean Art Gallery ....................C3

15 King Sejong Statue .............. D6 þ Shopping p72 16 National Children's 40 Kyobo Bookshop .................. D7 Museum .............................. E2 Mono Collection .......... (see 37) 17 National Folk Museum of 41 Sejong Art Market SoSo ...... C6 Korea ................................... E2 42 Seoul Selection ..................... E4 18 National Museum of 43 Yuimaru ................................. A4 Korean

Contemporary Ø Sports & Activities p74 History .................................D5 44 Seoul City Tour Bus ............. D7 19 National Palace Museum

of Korea .............................. C4 ÿ Sleeping p162 20 Open Air Exhibition ............... E3 45 Hide & Seek Guesthouse ..... C4 21 Ryugaheon .............................C3

22 Sajikdan ................................. A5 ï Information p211 23 Sejong Gallery ...................... D6 46 Australian Embassy ............. D6 24 SeMA Gyeonghuigung 47 Irish Embassy ....................... E5 Museum of Art ................... A7 48 Japanese Embassy .............. E5 25 Seoul Museum of History .... B7 49 KTO Tourist Information Center ................................. E7 ú Eating p65 50 US Embassy .......................... D6 Euro Gourmet.............. (see 26)

233

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æ Top Sights p59 29 Dawon .......................................................... C2 1 Jogye-sa ....................................................... A3 30 Madang Flower Cafe ................................... F3 2 Jongmyo ......................................................H3 Shortbus ............................................ (see 23) 31 Sik Mool ....................................................... E3 æ Sights p62

3 Bosingak ...................................................... A6 ý Entertainment p71 4 Central Buddhist Museum ........................ A2 32 Cinematheque ............................................ D4 5 Cheondogyo Temple .................................. C2 33 Insa-dong Outdoor Stage.......................... D5 6 Gonsindang .................................................H3 34 Musical Chef ............................................... D7 7 Hwabong Gallery ........................................ C3

8 Jongno Tower.............................................. B5 þ Shopping p72 9 Stone Pagoda of Wongak-sa ..................... D5 Cerawork ........................................... (see 40) 10 Sun Art Center ............................................ C4 35 Dolsilnai ....................................................... C3 11 Tapgol Park ................................................. D5 36 Insa-dong Maru .......................................... C3 12 Tteok & Kitchen Utensil 37 Jilkyungyee ................................................. C4 Museum .................................................... F2 38 KCDF Gallery ............................................... B3 13 Unhyeongung .............................................. D1 39 Kukjae Embroidery .................................... B3 40 Ssamziegil ................................................... C3 ú Eating p66

Balwoo Gongyang ............................. (see 52) Ø Sports & Activities p74 14 Bibigo Gyejeolbabsang .............................. C3 41 O'ngo ............................................................ E3 15 Chang Hwa Dang ........................................ E4 42 YBM Sisa ..................................................... E6 Gogung ............................................... (see 40)

16 Ikseon Dimibang ......................................... E3 ÿ Sleeping p162 17 Jirisan ........................................................... C2 43 An Hostel ...................................................... F3 18 Koong ........................................................... C3 44 Bibimbap Guesthouse ............................... E3 19 Newijo ........................................................... C2 45 Fraser Suites ............................................... D3 20 Osegyehyang .............................................. C2 46 Hostel Korea 11th ........................................ F1 47 Hotel the Designers ................................... E6 û Drinking & Nightlife p69 48 Nagwonjang Hotel ...................................... E4 21 AleDang ........................................................ F3

22 Baekseju-maeul .......................................... B6 ï Information p214 23 Barcode ........................................................ F4 49 Jogye-sa Information Center 24 Blue Star Pub .............................................. B2 for Foreigners .......................................... A3 25 Brew 3.14 ..................................................... F2 50 Seoul Global Center ................................... A6 26 Caffe Themselves ....................................... D7 51 Seoul Immigration Office 27 Comics Shop ............................................... F3 Anguk ......................................................... C1 28 Dalsaeneun Dalman Saenggak 52 Templestay Information Center ............... A3 Handa ........................................................ C2

236

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æ Top Sights p77 31 Mokmyeoksanbang ....... E5 58 Silloam Sauna ............... A4 1 Deoksugung .................. B2 32 Myeong-dong Gyoja ......E3 59 Sool Company ................E2 2 N Seoul Tower & N.Grill ....................... (see 2)

Namsan ........................E6 33 Potala ..............................E3 ÿ Sleeping p163 3 Namdaemun Market .... C3 34 Sinseon 60 Banyan Tree Club & 4 Seoul City Hall ............... C2 Seolnongtang ..............E2 Spa ............................... H7 35 Woo Rae Oak .................. H1 61 Crib49.............................. E5 æ Sights p79 36 Yeong-yang Centre....... D3 62 Hotel 28 .......................... D2 5 Ahn Jung-geun 63 Hotel 8 Hours ................ C3 Memorial Hall ............. C6 û Drinking & Nightlife p84 64 Lotte Hotel Seoul .......... D2 6 Bank of Korea Money 37 Cafe the Story ................ F4 65 Metro Hotel .................... D2 Museum ...................... D3 Coffee Libre .......... (see 14) 66 Namsan Guesthouse .... E4 7 Bongsudae......................E6 Davansa 67 Namsan Guesthouse Citizens Hall ............ (see 4) Teahouse .......... (see 45) 2 ................................... E4 8 Culture Station Seoul 38 Neurin Maeul .................. E1 68 Nine Tree Hotel 284 ............................... A5 39 The Edge ......................... F2 Myeong-dong ..............E3 Daehan Empire 40 Walkabout ...................... E4 69 Oriens Hotel & History Museum (see 17) Residences .................. F4 9 Deoksugung Stone ý Entertainment p84 70 Plaza ............................... C2 Wall Road .................... C2 41 Jeongdong Theater ...... B2 71 Small House Big Door ... D1 Gungisi Relics 42 Nanta Theatre Jung- 72 Splaisir ........................... C3 Exhibition Hall ..... (see 4) gu ................................. D3 73 Westin Chosun Seoul ... D2 10 Hamnyeongjeon............ B2 43 National Theater of 74 Zaza Backpackers ........ E4 11 Jeonggwanheon ............ B2 Korea ........................... H6

12 Junghwajeon ................. B2 44 Oh! Zemidong................ G3 ï Information p211 13 MMCA Deoksugung ..... B2 45 Seoul Namsan 75 Canadian Embassy ........ A1 14 Myeong-dong Gugakdang ................. G4 76 Chinese Embassy ......... D3 Catholic 77 German Embassy ......... B5 Cathedral ..................... E3 þ Shopping p86 78 Namdaemun Market 15 Namsan Park .................. F6 46 Åland .............................. D3 Tourist 16 Namsangol Hanok 47 Joongang Building C Information Village .......................... G4 and D ........................... C3 Center.......................... C3 17 Seokjojeon ..................... B2 48 Lotte Department Netherlands 18 Seoul Animation Store ............................ D2 Embassy ............ (see 75) Center ..........................E4 49 Market m* ...................... E4 79 New Zealand Seoul 50 Primera .......................... D3 Embassy ...................... A1 Metropolitan 51 Shinsegae ...................... D3 80 Seoullo 7017 Library .................. (see 4) 52 Stylenanda Pink Information 19 Seoul Museum of Art ... B2 Hotel .............................E3 Center.......................... C4 20 Seoul Plaza .................... C2 81 UK Embassy ................... C1 21 Seoullo 7017 .................. A4 Ø Sports & Activities p87

22 Sungnyemun ................. B4 53 Kimchi Academy ï Transport p206 23 Waryongmyo .................. E5 House ...........................E3 82 Namsan Cable Car ........ D5 54 Korea Whal Culture 83 Seoul Station City ú Eating p81 Association ................. G6 Airport Terminal ........ A5 24 Andong Jjimdak ............. E2 55 Outdoor Gym ................. H6

25 Congdu ............................ B1 56 Panmunjom Travel

26 Dongwon Jip ................... F2 Centre........................... C1

27 Gosang ............................ E1 57 Seoul Global Cultural

28 Gwangjang Market ........ H1 Center...........................E3

29 Hadongkwan .................. E2 Seoul Plaza Ice

30 Korea House .................. G3 Skating Rink...... (see 20)

237

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HongikUniversity(Hongdae)

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D

Man Pyung (300m);Jeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine (600m)

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DongmuBapsang(500m)

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Arcade BarSeoul (1.3km)

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æ Sights p90 28 Labris ..................................... C4 1 Gyeongui Line Book 29 M2 ........................................... B5 Street................................... E2 30 Nakrang Parlour ................... D1 2 Gyeongui Line Forest 31 NB2......................................... C5 Park ..................................... D1 32 Sorori Wolhyang ................... D3 3 KT&G SangsangMadang ..... B5 33 Su Noraebang ....................... B5 4 Modern Design Museum ..... E4 34 Suzie Q ................................... B5 5 War & Women's Human 35 Yri Cafe .................................. B7 Rights Museum .................. A2

ý Entertainment p98 ú Eating p92 36 Café BBang ........................... E3 6 Aoitori Bakery ....................... E3 37 Club Evans ............................. C5 7 Ciuri Ciuri ...............................B6 38 DGBD ..................................... B5 8 Ddobagi Chicken .................. C6 39 FF ............................................ B5 9 Fell & Cole ..............................B6 40 Mudaeruk .............................. A7 10 Gyeongju Restaurant ...........B6 41 Nanta Theatre Hongdae ...... B4 11 Himesiya ................................B6 42 Owl's Rooftop ........................ B5 12 Hongik Sutbul Galbi ..............D2 43 Post Territory 13 Menya Sandaime .................. B3 Ujjeonguk ............................ D6 14 Muwol Table ..........................B6 44 XIndie Ticket Lounge ........... B5 15 Namul Meokneun Gom ........ B5

16 Shim's Tapas .........................D3 þ Shopping p99 17 Sobok ..................................... B5 45 Free Market ........................... C4 46 Gentle Monster ..................... B5 û Drinking & Nightlife p95 47 Key .......................................... D2 18 aA Café ................................... B5 48 Object Recycle ...................... B1 19 Anthracite .............................. A7 Veronica Effect ........... (see 22) 20 Café Sukkara ......................... E3

21 Club MWG ............................. C4 ÿ Sleeping p165 22 Dukes Coffee 49 Come Inn ............................... C4 Showroom .......................... B7 50 Kpopstay ............................... D4 23 Fox Wine Bistro .....................B6 51 Lee Kang Ga .......................... A2 24 Gopchang Jeongol ................D3 52 Marigold Hotel ...................... B3 25 Hello, Stranger ...................... A5 53 Urbanwood Guesthouse...... D3 26 Hongdae Playground .......... C4 54 Wowfactor Stay .................... A2 27 Keg B ...................................... C5

241

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æ Sights p90 Ø Sports & Activities p100 1 63 Sky Art Gallery ....................................... D3 4 Yeouido Hangang Swimming Pool............ B1 2 National Assembly ..................................... A1

3 Noryangjin Fish Market .............................. D4 ÿ Sleeping p165 5 Conrad Seoul .............................................. C2 ú Eating p92 6 Marriott Executive Apartments................ B3 63 Buffet Pavilion ................................ (see 1)

Busan Ilbeonji ...................................... (see 3)

242

ITAEWO

NITAEWON Map on p244

æ Top Sights p106 35 Made in Pongdang ..................................... A2 1 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art .............. G3 36 Magpie Brewing Co .................................... A2 37 Miracle .......................................................... F5 æ Sights p105 38 Mowmow ..................................................... D4 2 Itaewon Bugundang History Park ............ B4 39 Namsan Winery .......................................... B2 3 Seoul Central Mosque................................ F5 40 Pet Sounds .................................................. B2 4 Stairway Flea Market ................................. F6 41 Queen ............................................................E5 42 Rose & Crown ............................................. C5 ú Eating p105 43 Soap ..............................................................E5 5 Baker's Table ............................................... A1 44 Soho ..............................................................E5 6 Bua ................................................................ D5 45 Southside Parlor......................................... A3 7 Coreanos Kitchen ....................................... A5 46 Standing Coffee Roasters .......................... C1 8 Downtowner ................................................H4 47 Sunset Beach .............................................. D5 Gino's NY Pizza ................................... (see 7) 48 Takeout Drawing ........................................ A2 9 HBC Gogitjib ................................................ C4 49 Trance ...........................................................E5 10 Just BLT ....................................................... A2 50 Venue/ ......................................................... D5 11 La Ferme ......................................................H3 51 Ways of Seeing ........................................... G4 Linus' BBQ .......................................... (see 13) 52 White Rabbit ............................................... A2 12 Maddux Pizza ..............................................D6 Why Not ............................................. (see 32) 13 Nekkid Wings............................................... B5 53 Y.Pot Coffee ................................................ A5 14 On Ne Sait Jamais ......................................H3

15 Passion 5...................................................... H2 ý Entertainment p112 16 Pho for You .................................................. A1 54 All that Jazz ................................................. E4 17 Pipit Burger .................................................H3 Boogie Woogie .................................. (see 40) 18 Plant Bakery ................................................ C5

19 Plant Cafe & Kitchen ..................................D6 þ Shopping p112 20 Root .............................................................. G3 55 Ando ............................................................. E6 21 Rose Bakery ................................................ H2 Comme des Garcons ........................ (see 21) 22 Tartine .......................................................... D5 56 Eelskin Shop ............................................... C5 23 Vatos ............................................................ B5 57 Millimetre Milligram ................................... G4 58 Vinyl & Plastic ............................................. H3 û Drinking & Nightlife p109 59 What the Book ............................................. E7 24 Against the Machine...................................H3 60 Yongsan Crafts Museum ........................... H2 25 Almaz ........................................................... E5

26 Always Homme ........................................... E5 Ø Sports & Activities p113 27 B One ............................................................ D5 61 Itaewonland ................................................. F5 28 Blacklist ........................................................ C5

29 Booth ............................................................ A2 ÿ Sleeping p166 30 Burn .............................................................. A2 62 Grand Hyatt Seoul ....................................... F2 31 Cakeshop ..................................................... B5 63 IP Boutique Hotel ........................................ F4 32 Eat Me .......................................................... E5 64 Itaewon G Guest House ..............................E5 33 Flower Gin .................................................... A1 65 Itaewon Hostel & Inn .................................. E6 34 Grand Ole Opry ........................................... F5 66 Philstay Hostel B&B ................................... C4

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æ Top Sights p137 1 Korea Furniture Museum ............................. E1

æ Sights p138 2 Arko Art Center ............................................. D6 3 Changgyeonggung ....................................... B7 4 Gilsang-sa ....................................................... F2 5 Great Greenhouse ........................................ A5 6 Hanyangdoseong Exhibition Hall ............... D3 7 Hyehwamun .................................................. D3 8 Ihwa Mural Village .......................................... E7 9 Lock Museum ................................................ D6 10 Marronnier Park ............................................ D6 11 Myeongjeongjeon ......................................... A7 12 Naksan Park .................................................. E6 13 Seonjam Museum .......................................... B1

ú Eating p142 14 Deongjang Yesool ......................................... C5 15 Geumwang Dongaseu ................................... A1 16 Hyehwa Kalguksu ......................................... C4 17 Wood and Brick .............................................. B1

û Drinking & Nightlife p142 18 Ape Seoul ....................................................... C4 19 Gaepul ............................................................. E7 20 Hakrim ............................................................ C6 21 Mix & Malt ...................................................... B5 22 Slow Garden ................................................... B1 23 Suyeon Sanbang ............................................ A1

ý Entertainment p143 24 ArkoPAC ........................................................ D6 25 Daehangno Information Center .................. C6 26 Jazz Story ...................................................... B2 27 Seoul Theater Center ................................... C5

þ Shopping p144 28 10X10 .............................................................. D5 29 Filipino Sunday Market ................................ C4

ÿ Sleeping p168 30 Eugene's House ............................................ C2 31 Inside Backpackers ...................................... B4 32 Moggoji House .............................................. C2

255

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541539th edition – Jan 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 274 5© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Our WritersThomas O’MalleyItaewon & Yongsan-gu, Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul, Northern Seoul, Day Trips from Seoul A British writer based in Beijing, Tom is a world-leading connoisseur of cheap eats, dive bars, dark alleyways and hangovers. He has contributed travel stories to everyone from the BBC to Playboy, and reviews hotels for the Telegraph. Under another guise, he is a comedy scriptwriter. Follow him by walking behind at a distance.

Phillip TangGwanghwamun & Jongno-gu, Myeong-dong & Jung-gu, Western Seoul, Gangnam & Southern Seoul Phillip Tang grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho and fish’n’chips before moving to Mexico City. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and then writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. Find his writing at hellophillip.com, photos @mrtangtangtang, and

tweets @philliptang.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’