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Publisher The Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Tinley Park, Illinois. PowerPoint for. T HE W ORLD OF F ASHION M ERCHANDISING. By Vicki Shaffer-White. Part 2: Textile/Apparel Building Blocks. Chapter 6 Textile Fibers and Yarns. Objectives:. - PowerPoint PPT PresentationTRANSCRIPT
PowerPoint for
TTHE HE WWORLD OFORLD OF
FFASHIONASHIONMMERCHANDISINGERCHANDISING
By
Vicki Shaffer-White
Publisher
The Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.Tinley Park, Illinois
Part 2: Textile/Apparel Building Blocks
Chapter 6
Textile Fibers and Yarns
Objectives:
• List the main characteristics of natural and manufactured fibers
• Explain how fibers are marketed• Summarize the role of leather and
fur as primary materials in fashion• Describe new fiber innovations• Explain how fibers are made into
yarns
Fiber Categories• Natural
– Originate from natural sources– Plant (cellulosic) or animal
(protein)
• Manufactured, synthetic, or man-made (terms interchangeable)– Originate from chemical
sources– May also be from regenerated
or recycled sources
Natural Fibers
• Cellulosic (from plants)– Cotton
• From cotton plants
– Flax (linen) • From flax stems
• Protein (from animals)– Silk
• From cocoons of silkworms
– Wool • From fleece (hair) of
sheep or lambs
Textile Terms• Fibers
– Staple: short fibers• Usually characterizes
a natural fiber
– Filament: long continuous fibers• Usually characterizes
a synthetic fiber (except silk)
• Denier– Fiber thickness or
diameter
• Yarns– Fibers twisted
together– Ply refers to how
many yarns may be twisted together before weaving
• Fabrics– Yarns woven,
knitted, or fused together to create fabric
Cotton • Cellulosic fiber• From “bolls” (seed
pods) growing on bushes
• Comfortable• Soft and durable• Absorbent, cool to
wear• “Environmentally
friendly” cotton can be grown in a range of colors
Wool
• Protein fiber• From sheep• Worsted wool is
higher quality with long staple fibers (over 2 inches)
• Natural insulator• Will shrink and
mat if washed
Flax (Linen)
• World’s oldest textile fiber
• Cellulosic fiber from stem of flax plant
• Stiff, wrinkles easily• Absorbent, cool to
wear in heat• Other uses
– Dish towels– Tablecloths
Flax is the fiber name; linen is the fabric name.
Other Natural Fibers
• Ramie• Jute• Sisal• Hemp• Raffia• Down
feathers• Hair fibers
from– Goats– Rabbits– Camels
Cellulosic Fibers
Protein Fibers
Marketing Natural Fibers
• Natural fiber trade associations:– Cotton Incorporated– National Cotton
Council– Wool Bureau, Inc.– Mohair Council of
America– International Silk
Association
• Provide fabric libraries
Natural Fibers r cool
Leather and Fur
• From hides or pelts (skins) of animals
• Expensive• Artificial substitutes
available (faux leather and fur)
• Leather used mainly for footwear
• Fur used for “prestige” apparel and accessories
Manufactured Fibers
• Process– Raw materials
melted or dissolved to form thick syrup
– Liquid extruded through spinneret
– Extruded filaments stretched and hardened into fibers
Categories of Manufactured Fibers (generic groups)
• Generic group: a family of manufactured fibers with similar chemical composition
• Common generic fibers from chemical or petroleum products:– Polyester– Nylon– Olefin– Acrylic
• Variants: trade or brand names given to slightly modified generic fibers
• Example: ANTRON nylon used for hosiery
Manufactured Fibers
• Qualities that are unique or superior to natural fibers– Elasticity– Nonallergenic– Strength– Resistant to
abrasion
• Qualities that may be less than desirable– Feel clammy
because they are nonabsorbent
– Build up static electricity
– Susceptible to oil stains
Other Types of Other Types of Manufactured FibersManufactured Fibers
• Fibers that come from a plant (cellulosic) source; chemically altered to create new fibers (regenerated)– Rayon– Acetate and
Triacetate– Lyocell
Fiber Innovation and Trends
• Fibers are designed for specific end-uses
• Polymers (chemical compounds) are engineered to meet needs
• “Microfibers” are ultra-fine deniers that make softer, more luxurious fabrics
• Spandex added in fiber blends to make stretchable fabrics
Plastic soft drink bottles recycled into apparel
Marketing Manufactured Fibers
• Trademarked variants assure consumers of quality
• American Fiber Manufacturers Association helps inform the consumer, maintain government relations, and monitor foreign trade policy
Spinning Fibers into Yarns• Spinning draws,
twists, and winds staple, filament, or blends of both fibers into long, cohesive strands or yarns
• Yarns wound onto bobbins or spools
• Twist may vary, creating different yarn properties
Early 18th century spinning wheel
Yarn Terminology• Yarn blends
– Combining two or more fibers into a spun yarn
• Combination yarns – Contain two or more
plys of different fibers
• Textured yarns– Changing the surface
of a yarn using chemicals, heat, or machinery
Texturing gives bulk, stretch, softness, and wrinkle-resistance to yarns.
Do You Know . . .
• The American Yarn Spinners Association deals with the government on yarn-industry issues such as trade laws, customs regulations, packaging, labeling, and product standards.