pp getting it right in camera

7/26/2019 Pp Getting It Right in Camera

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The Exposure Triangle

This “triangle” is really a balance or formula that gets utilized every

time a picture is taken. Like the three sides/angles of a triangle, there

are three components to the exposure triangle.

1. ISO—how sensitive your camera is to light

2. Aperture—how open/closed your lens is

3. Shutter speed—how fast/slow your lens opens and closes

ISO: International Organization of StandardizationFor film cameras, it was how sensitive a particular film was to light. For

a digital camera, it is how sensitive our camera sensor is to light.

Examples:

Outdoors in sunshine = ISO 100

Outdoors in overcast light = ISO 400

Indoors = ISO 800 or higher

When a film photographer when outside to shoot, she would have tochange film to suit the light.

With a DSLR, if you want to shoot outside in broad daylight, you would

change your ISO to 100 or 200. If you walked back inside, you would

simply change it to 800 or 100.

ISO and Noise

ISO can affect how much “noise” your image has.

Noise is the graininess in digital images. Noise comes from two

things:

1. High ISO: the higher the ISO, the more noise

2. Underexposed images: pictures that are not exposed correctly

in camera, but later improved in post-processing, will have

noise in them, due to the underexposure.

Getting it Right in Camera



Aperture

Aperture is how wide the opening of your lens is at the time of the picture.

A smaller f number (like 1.8) means your lens is wide open, allowing in

lots and lots of light.

A larger f number (like f16) means the lens is more closed down, allow-

ing in much less light.

How does aperture affect your image?

Aperture has two main purposes:

#1 Controls light allowed in through lens

Large apertures (small f numbers) have a very wide opening to allow in

the most light possible.

Narrow/closed down (large f numbers) have smaller openings, pre-

venting much light from entering in.

#2 Controls the depth of focus when picture is taken Wide open (small f numbers) give you a shallow depth of field, mean-

ing just the subject is going to be in focus and most everything else be-

hind it will be blurry.

Shooting with wide apertures is great for portraits, florals and

other subjects you wish to isolate focus on.

Narrow or closed down apertures (large f numbers) give you a more

focused, detailed images. Your subject plus everything around it and

behind it will be in focus.

This is great for landscapes, architectural photography and

large groups shots.




Shutter Speed

Shutter speed is how long your shutter is open.

Shutter speed will be a fraction like 1/200th of a second.

In your view finder it will just be a number: 200 (for 1/200th) or 1400

for 1/1400th or 20 for 1/20th of a second.

If you have lots of light, your shutter will be fast.

If you have low/poor light, your shutter speed will be slow.

How shutter speed affects your images:

Fast shutter speed can freeze action, like water spraying or jumping

kids.

Slow shutter speed can show motion, like a car driving.

Slow shutter speed is one of the main contributors to out of focus im-

ages.

If you have a slow shutter speed and you are hand-holding the camera

or having a busy subject, you are likely to have some motion blur which will prevent the image from being sharp.

Helpful tip: To ensure sharp pictures, keep your shutter speed at twice the

focal length of your lens.




Metering

Metering is getting your image properly exposed by balancing the ISO, ap-

erture and shutter speed.

Types of metering:

Spot – metering is taken from one particular, chosen area (use focal

points to pick your spot).

Center Weighted - bases the exposure on the intensity of the entire

frame, but with most of the emphasis on a circular area in the center.

Matrix or Evaluative – reads the light over the several different spotsin image.

I almost always use spot metering, but there are times matrix and center

weighted work better.

Landscapes – matrix / Group portraits – center weighted




The Secrets to Sharper Pictures

Getting a sharp (seriously in-focus) picture is not as easy as pressing the

shutter button. There are several things that you need to do ahead of time,

or be aware of while you are shooting.

Main ingredients to getting a sharp image:

Using appropriate aperture

Moving target? Use at least f4

Two people, use f4 / Four or more, use f5.6 or f8

Maintaining adequate shutter speed

If handholding, keep your shutter speed at least two times the

focal length you are using

Picking your own focus points

Change your camera setting so YOU pick the focus point, not

the camera

Know where to place the focus

More focus falls back than forward, so….

Focus on the eye closest to you

If a group, focus on the person closest to you

Distance to subject(s)

The closer you are to your subject, the shallower your depth offield gets


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