prague essentials guide

1P R A G U E

ESSENTIALSTHE

GUIDE

WWW.NORDANGLIA.COM/PRAGUE

FIRSTEDITION

P R A G U E

ESSENTIALSTHE

GUIDE


Essentials Guide Prague 1st Edition

Copyright © Nord Anglia 2011All Rights Reserved

Chief Editor - Travis MurrayPrimary Design - Valle [email protected] Design - Travis MurrayPrimary Copywriting - Suchi RudraCopyediting / Proofreading - Aelred Doyle

While every possible effort has been taken to ensure that the facts contained within this guide are accurate, Nord Anglia cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that this guide may contain.

No part of this guide may be reproduced or distributed, by electronic means or any other, without the prior permission of Nord Anglia Ltd.

P R A G U E

ESSENTIALSTHE

GUIDE


LIVING IN PRAGUE

Health and Wellness p 134

Eating and Drinking p 136

Shopping p 146

Neighbourhood Descriptions p 152

Conclusion p 170

PREPARING TO GO

Introduction p 8

History p 24

Culture p 29

Demographics p 30

Cityscape p 31

Country Map p 32

Language p 34

Climate p 35

Regional Map p 36

Administrative Preparations p 38

Address, Phone and Finances p 40

Embassies p 42

Books, Films and Music p 46

WHEN YOU ARRIVE

Landing p 52

Getting Around p 54

Money and Banking p 62

Getting Connected p 64

Health Care p 66

Temporary Accommodation p 70

Finding Housing p 72

Getting Settled p 80

Culture Shock p 82

Education p 85

Education Supplement p 92

TABLE OF CONTENTS

helping others thrive

www.nordanglia.com/prague

Education and learning have always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be.

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Introduction

If you’re moving to Prague, prepare to be mesmerised. Everything you might have heard about Prague – the Golden City, the Paris of the 90s, the best beer in the world, the stunning architectural beauty – well,

actually, it’s all true. Perfectly balanced between the overloaded capitals of Western Europe and the growing nations of Eastern Europe, Prague remains a kind of refuge for those seeking out a very comfortable expat lifestyle.

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Prague has charm, sure, but there’s something almost hypnotising about this city that hangs out on the edge of central Europe. As Kafka once put it, “This dear mother has claws,” and indeed, many

expats often find themselves staying just one more season or one more year, until there’s simply no better place to be than in Prague.

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Living and working in Prague means intriguing career opportunities, exciting language challenges and cultural immersion. You can savour the comforting foods of traditional Czech cuisine and the many

excellent beers, mingle with a diverse and lively expatriate community, enjoy a very good cost of living and be a part of one of the strongest economies in Europe. However, this also comes with frustrations.

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Prague becomes overrun with tourists in the summer, thanks in part to its status as a city with many UNESCO sites. The cold and grey of winter can last for four or five months. Adjusting to a new language,

a new culture and a new government can be frustrating, and you may often find yourself saying, “But this would never happen if we were back home.”

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Acclimating to a vastly different environment will certainly take time, patience, flexibility and a good sense of humour – something that you’ll find the Czech people certainly have their own ironic

take on. You can, to a degree, mentally prepare yourself and your family for the culture shock by learning as much as possible about Prague and Czech culture beforehand, which can help to mitigate the surprises that will inevitably pop up once you arrive.

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This Essentials Guide Prague is designed to help you prepare for Prague and settle in once you get there. Despite its challenges, Prague has become known as an attractive place for expats to live inexpensively

and enjoy a very safe, modern and relaxed lifestyle. Prague boasts world-class hospitals, accommodation in inspiring and historical buildings and high-quality, accredited international schools. Newcomers will find countless cultural events, interest groups and organisations to make them feel that Prague is a home away from home.

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23THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE PRAGUE

PREPARING TO GO

CONTENTS

Preparing to go will be as much a mental journey as it will be a practical one. Understanding more about the culture you are about

to encounter will help prepare you for the experience. You can read a book or watch a movie we recommend or you can engage in your own research. Either way, the process will reward you.

The practical aspects of preparation are, of course, vital to ensuring that your journey begins on a positive note. This section will help you prepare on both fronts.

History p 24

Culture p 29

Demographics p 30

Cityscape p 31

Country Map p 32

Language p 34

Climate p 35

Regional Map p 36

Administrative Preparations p 38

Address, Phone and Finances p 40

Embassies p 42

Books, Films and Music p 46

INT

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THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE PRAGUE

HISTORY

History

Prague seems to have been established around the year 880 when the walls of Prague Castle (Prazsky Hrad) were built by Prince Borislav

along the Vltava River as a fortress against invaders. The city’s other castle, Vysehrad (literally ‘high castle’), was established in the middle of the 10th century on another section of the Vltava, and these two fortifications formed the first rough boundaries of Prague. This was the beginning of the Premyslid dynasty. From 925-929, the famous King Vaclav became ruler of Bohemia. You may know him as Good King Wenceslas of Christmas carol fame; once you make it to Prague, you’ll find that he’s the very same Vaclav who gazes out proudly from his horse over Vaclavske namesti (Wenceslas Square). Between the 12th and 14th centuries, Prague’s main neighbourhoods or ‘towns’ were established. First came the Old Town (Stare Mesto), followed by the Lesser Town (Mala Strana) and Hradcany (the Castle Quarter).

By the 1300s, with the Luxembourg dynasty already in power, Prague was putting itself on the map, growing in area and population. A period of great prosperity and growth came with the rule of Charles IV (1346-78), who made Prague into a second Rome, a spiritual, political and commercial centre. Charles IV built the stone Charles Bridge (1357), founded the oldest university in central Europe, Charles University (1348), and, during the same year, established Prague’s New Town (Nove Mesto). In 1355, Charles was crowned Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, and so it was that Prague became the capital of the Holy Roman Empire. But after Charles’ death, everything changed. During King Wenceslas IV’s reign, the preacher Jan Hus began to spread his ideas about the reformation of the church. As a result, he was executed. This was followed by a period of religious conflict and, four years later, Jan Hus’ followers ended up literally throwing members of the council out the windows of Prague’s Town Hall, the First Defenestration of Prague. This led to the beginning of the Hussite Wars, in which Hussites and

A period of great prosperity and

growth came with the rule of Charles IV (1346-78), who made Prague into a second Rome, a spiritual, political

and commercial centre.

Statue of Charles IV, Prague

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HISTORY

King Sigmund’s armies fought over a period of 15 years.

It wasn’t until the 16th century, with the Habsburg dynasty already in power, that Prague managed to regain a more stable status. In 1583 Emperor Rudolf II took up residence in Prague Castle, and Prague became the centre of European politics, art and science. It was a prosperous period for the city. But when Emperor Ferdinand II came to power, conflicts with the Protestants started up again, bringing on the Second

Defenestration of Prague in 1618, when Catholic governors were thrown from the windows of Prague Castle. As a result, in 1621, 27 Protestant leaders were executed on Prague’s Old Town Square. This incident led to the Thirty Years War, one of the most destructive conflicts in European history. The city’s decline from a European powerhouse to a provincial town resulted in an economic collapse and a decrease in population. In 1784, by the order of Emperor Joseph II, the four independent towns of Prague (Old Town, New Town, Lesser Town and Hradcany) were

In 1583 Emperor Rudolf II took up residence in Prague Castle, and Prague became the centre of European politics, art and science.

Nazis in Prague

Painting of the horror of the Thirty Years War

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HISTORY

joined to form a single city. In the 19th century, Prague became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After World War I ended with that empire’s defeat, Czechoslovakia was created and Prague became its capital. The transformation into a big modern city continued at a rapid pace, something reflected in Prague’s highly diverse architectural styles. By 1930, the population had risen to 850,000. In 1939, as a part of the Munich Agreement, Germany occupied all of Czechoslovakia. The occupation resulted in the decimation of Prague’s Jewish community, with roughly 40,000 murdered. Prague citizens were oppressed and persecuted by the Nazis; politicians, university professors and students and many others were murdered, imprisoned or sent to concentration camps. Some parts of the city centre were destroyed by allied bombing in 1945. Prague was finally liberated in March that year when Soviet tanks reached the city after days of Czech resistance to the Nazi army, but consequently Czechoslovakia became a Soviet satellite. In 1968, there was a hiatus when Alexander Dubcek attempted to create a new “socialism with a human face” during what became known as the Prague Spring, when there was hope for democratic reform and the restoration of individual freedoms. This effort was suppressed when Soviet tanks entered Prague, capturing Dubcek and occupying the country. What followed was a period of even stronger communist oppression, with the Soviet Union controlling every political decision.

In 1989, after years of communist occupation, when the Berlin Wall fell Czechs crowded the streets of Prague peacefully protesting and demanding change. They gathered on Wenceslas Square jingling keys as a symbol of freedom, as if to say, “Unlock the doors!” This was the Velvet Revolution, which ended with the overthrow of the communist government.

In 1993, the Velvet Divorce took place and the country was split into two new nations: Slovakia and the Czech Republic. Prague took its place as the capital city of a reformed country.

Wenceslas Square during the Velvet

Revolution

Prague by day

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CULTURE

Culture

Czech culture has its similarities to German, especially in terms of beer and cuisine. However, Prague, as any Czech will tell you, isn’t typical

of the Czech Republic as a whole. With its roller coaster population of expats and steady stream of tourists from all over the world, Prague is an increasingly diverse and cosmopolitan city. The city has long been a draw for expats from Western Europe and North America, but there’s also a thriving Vietnamese community owning almost all the fruit and vegetable markets you’ll come across. (You have them to thank for introducing Prague to a wonderful variety of Asian produce and spices.) In fact, there’s a spot about 45 minutes from the centre of town, known as Little Hanoi, where you can get authentic Vietnamese cuisine in winding alleys full of Vietnamese going about their daily business on bicycles.

Religious Czechs are few and far between, as communist rule forced an atheist lifestyle upon the Czech people, something that has remained intact. The many majestic cathedrals and churches serve mostly as museums rather than functioning places of worship.

Traditional Czech culture does make more of an appearance during the frequent nature-themed festivals that take place all over the city year-round, such as the festival to welcome spring featuring a witch-burning ceremony (Carodejnice), or the medieval-themed offerings at the Christmas markets (though this is mostly for tourists).

Most Czechs are passionate nature lovers and find any excuse to get away from the city and into nature for various sporting activities, including skiing, mountain biking, hiking and even mushroom picking in early autumn. This is a big part of the Czech lifestyle, and many Czechs own a weekend house (complete with vegetable garden and / or fruit trees) a couple of hours outside Prague as a refuge from the city after a long week of work.

Of course, beer drinking is central to life in Prague, as can be expected in a country that arguably produces the best beer in the world. Prague’s streets are filled with a wide range of pubs to suit every taste, and you’ll find them packed after work and on weekends. And when the weather’s half-decent, the crowds make a move to the beer gardens, located all over the city in parks of various sizes or on cosy green plazas.

But when the weather isn’t so great, and for much of the year it isn’t, Prague’s citizens have many other options for entertainment besides a long afternoon at the pub. Prague is world-renowned for its film, classical music and architecture, and there’s always a fascinating variety of concerts, exhibitions and film and music festivals on offer.

Prague has long been a draw for expats from Western Europe and North America.

Opposite - people enjoying a beer in Prague

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DEMOGRAPHICS

Demographics

Spreading across about 500 sq km, Prague is home to around 1.4 million people. As with many major urban centres in Europe, Prague’s

demographics differ from the Czech Republic as a whole, which is more than 90 percent Czech in terms of language and ethnicity. That number has been steadily increasing over the past two decades due to assimilation. Recognised minorities such as Moravians, Slovaks, Hungarians and Silesians have seen a steady decrease in numbers; however, the city has seen a significant increase in Vietnamese and Ukranians. During communist rule, the governments of Czechoslovakia and Vietnam had a special agreement for the education of Vietnamese citizens in Czechoslovakia which saw the first migrants arrive in 1956.

Overall, the population increased by 1 percent due to immigration in 2007. Similar to many developed countries, the Czech Republic has a fertility rate of 1.5 percent and thus is dependent on immigration for further population growth.

Almost 60 percent of Czechs claim to be atheist, agnostic, non-believer or not affiliated to any specific religion. Of those affiliated to a specific religion, Roman Catholics are the largest segment, at about 25 percent, down from almost 40 percent during the 1990s. In a Eurobarometer poll in 2005, only 19 percent of the population cited a belief in god, which is second lowest in the EU after Estonia. However, when asked if they believe in some sort of spirit or life force, 50 percent answered yes.

• Literacy rate: 99.9 percent• Life expectancy: male - 74.4, female - 80.6• Infant mortality rate: 2.83 deaths / 1000 live births• Age structure (2007): 65+: 14.6 percent, 15-64: 71.2 percent

Almost 60% of Czechs claim to be

atheist, agnostic, non-believer or not

affiliated to any specific religion.

Crowd in Prague

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CITYSCAPE

Cityscape

Prague, an inspiring and enchanting medieval city, is known by many a name, including ‘the City of Seven Hills,’ referring to the beautifully

hilly landscape of the Prague region. However, there are actually nine hills within the Vltava River basin over which the city is spread: Letna, Vitkov, Opys, Vetrov, Skalka, Emauzy, Vysehrad, Karlov and Petrin (the highest hill, which has a cable car to take you up to the very top, where you’ll also find a climbable Eiffel Tower replica).

The Vltava River is a defining feature of the city (though swimming in it isn’t recommended) and is the longest river in the country, eventually joining the Elbe River. It runs through Prague for about 31 km, crossed by 18 bridges, and divides the city centre a bit unequally, with half on the left bank (Mala Strana and Hradcany) and half on the right bank (Stare Mesto, Nove Mesto). These sections of the city are where you might easily get lost in the charming maze of narrow, winding cobblestone lanes that aren’t too suitable for automobiles.

Prague has 22 districts, but as Prague continues to grow, so do the numbers. Several small islands (including Slovansky, Zofin, Strelecky, Kampa and Detsky) are found in the Vltava, and these cosy green spaces are often used for festivals and concerts. Kampa Island is separated from Mala Strana by a small branch of the Vltava, known as the Devil’s Arm. This quaint historical area (the island was once full of mills and gardens, and four of the watermills still remain) has been called the Venice of Prague.

The Vltava River is a defining feature of the city.

Prague district map

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LANGUAGE

Language

The Czech language is from the Slavic language family, and has more in common with Polish, Slovak and Ukrainian (Slovak and Czech

speakers understand each other perfectly) than with Russian or Serbian. Czech uses the Roman alphabet (not Cyrillic), with a few accent marks thrown in for fun (often used to create a double consonant sound), and which are rather simple to remember, but need lots of practice to pronounce correctly: č (ch), ř (rrrrrzh), š (sh), ž (zzh), ň (nyuh). You’ll also find t’ and d’, where the apostrophe after the letter implies a softer ending pronunciation, something a little like this: t’ = tyuh, d’ = dyuh. Vowels with this kind of accent, á, are pronounced with a longer sound than a regular ‘a’. You’ll also see ě (ye) and ů (short oo sound).

It’s a good idea to get started on your Czech skills before you arrive. Pick up a phrasebook or instructional CD, or download a podcast. Definitely purchase a dictionary to supplement the use of your phrasebook. It’s always respectful if you try to throw in some Czech words and phrases when speaking to a local, even if they know some English. It shows you’re at least making an effort as a foreigner in their country, instead of assuming that they should speak your language. Ask your child’s school if Czech classes are available for parents through the school. Look up conversation exchanges on fliers at expat hangouts like the Globe Bookstore or on websites like www.expats.cz.

The Slavic grammar system can take time to master, with its endless declinations and conjugations, and the Czech language is also notorious for stringing together consonants and skipping vowels, such as in the words krk (throat) or mrkvy (carrots).

But more and more Czechs (especially younger people) speak English nowadays, and English teachers are still in high demand. German will also help you get by, since many Czechs from the older generation learned it in school. The same goes for Russian, as people were forced to learn it when Czechoslovakia was under communist rule. There’s been a recent wave of Russians migrating to Prague so you may hear Russian spoken quite often; however, speaking Russian to a local isn’t recommended, as it’s considered offensive or upsetting.

Public transport signs and announcements are often in both Czech and English, and sometimes also German. Most tourist signs are in English.

It’s always respectful if you try to throw in

some Czech words and phrases when

speaking to a local, even if they know

some English.

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CLIMATE

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rage

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igh

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Climate

Prague is at 40º 55’ N, 21º 00’ E, very close to what’s sometimes called the ‘imaginary centre’ of Europe. Places sharing Prague’s latitude include

Bonn, Krakow, Kharkov, Winnipeg and the southern coast of Britain.

As a landlocked country, the Czech Republic has a temperate climate that falls between milder, wetter Atlantic European patterns and more severe Russian weather patterns. The average temperature in January is about 10ºC (with the average low in January getting down to -5ºC), while July can see temperatures of around 23ºC, though this is often accompanied by plenty of rain.

Prague’s climate makes each season markedly different. The longest season is undoubtedly winter, with a pervasive greyness that can last from about November (when darkness starts to set in around 4:30pm) until March or April. After this long stretch of winter blues, Prague enjoys mild weather the rest of the year. Autumn can be somewhat rainy, with more precipitation than winter, which nowadays doesn’t see much snow. However, the rain can continue during the winter months as well, turning the ground into an unpleasant grey slush that can be a mess to trek through. Spring comes with its share of strong winds (sometimes ripping the roofs off old, unmaintained buildings) and plenty of rain, and summer is just hot enough to keep beer gardens full to the brim, with a dry heat. As early as April, or whenever the first ‘warm’ day (meaning about 12ºC) hits, cafe and restaurant tables burst out onto the sidewalks and people throw off their jackets and take to the parks and beer gardens.

The Czech Republic has a temperate climate that falls between milder, wetter Atlantic European and more severe Russian weather patterns.

Prague climate chart

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ADMINISTRATIVE PREPARATIONS

Administrative preparations

You’ll find plenty of international moving companies that can help smooth your transition to Prague. In fact, many of these companies

work specifically with expat families and even offer culture orientation seminars for the whole family. Search for moving companies on Prague’s biggest expat portal, www.expats.cz. When deciding what to bring, bear in mind that electronics and clothing are generally more expensive in the Czech Republic.

Visas & documentsObtaining visas for your entire family will take time, so you need to start this process as early as possible. Visa requirements differ depending on your country of origin and the length and purpose of your stay. You must contact the closest Czech consulate or embassy in your country for up-to-date information. However, your employer may also provide you with assistance in the visa process. The main difference in visa requirements is between EU and non-EU citizens: non-EU citizens require long-term visas for a period of stay longer than three months.

EU citizens:EU citizens do not require a long-term visa to visit or stay in the Czech Republic over 90 days. EU citizens can find information on residency requirements here: http://magistrat.praha-mesto.cz/75523_Information-about-Residency-for-Citizens-of-the-European-Union-and-Their-Family-Members-in-the-Czech-Republic%29.

Non-EU citizens:As the Czech Republic is now part of the Schengen Area (which includes most EU nations as well as Switzerland, though not the UK or Ireland), non-EU citizens without a long-term visa can only stay within the Czech Republic for up to 90 days within a 6-month period. After that, they must leave not only the Czech Republic but the entire Schengen Area for another 90 days before being allowed to return.

The documents submitted for a long-term visa depend on the very important “Reason for long-term stay in the Czech Republic”. Is it for a job or self-employment? Then you need a work permit or trade licence first. Is it to study? Then you need a university admissions letter. Is it for family reunification? Then you need a marriage certificate. Detailed visa information, in English, can be found on the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Czech Republic website: www.mzv.cz/jnp/en/information_for_aliens/frequently_asked_questions/index.html.

Obtaining visas for your entire family will take time, so

you need to start this process as early as

possible.

As the Czech Republic is now

part of the Schengen Area, non-EU

citizens without a long-term visa can

only stay within the Czech Republic for

up to 90 days within a 6-month period.

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If you know at least 4-6 months in advance that you’ll be staying long-term in Prague, you can apply for your family’s visas at the Czech embassy in your home country (recommended). Otherwise, once you arrive in the Czech Republic you can make an appointment and submit your translated, notarised documents to the nearest Czech embassy or consulate outside the country (Dresden, Bratislava – highly recommended for very friendly service – or Vienna), and then wait for approximately 2 to 4 months. Once your visa is ready, you must bring proof of medical insurance (valid for the length of your visa) with you when you pick it up. You can find detailed information on insurance requirements and the list of approved insurance companies here: www.mzv.cz/jnp/en/information_for_aliens/general_visa_information/travel_medical_insurance.html.

Check the following websites for updated procedures and regulations:

• British citizens: http://ukinczechrepublic.fco.gov.uk/en• American citizens: http://prague.usembassy.gov• Canadian citizens: www.canadainternational.gc.ca/czech-tcheque/index.aspx

If you want to make things less complicated, you can hire a service like Assistance2Expats (www.assistance2expats.cz) for help with the entire visa process.

If you’re moving to Prague as a family, you must be prepared to provide your child’s previous school records and birth certificate. Contact your child’s current and previous schools as soon as possible to get the process moving. Even if you’re not going to enrol them in school, bringing at least a copy of each family member’s birth certificates and medical records and prescriptions is a good idea. Here is a list of documents to bring for a long-term stay in Prague:

• Passport (plus several copies of first page of passport) and visa• Extra passport-size photos (however, Czech documents will require

smaller, Czech-size passport photos which can be taken at any photo shop in Prague)

• Children’s birth certificates (copy for adults)• Marriage certificate• Children’s school records• Diploma and CV (for applying for work permit)• Driving licence (to apply for international driving licence)• Inventory of everything shipped• Medical records, prescriptions

If you know at least 4-6 months in advance that you’ll be staying long-term in Prague, you can apply for your family’s visas at the Czech embassy in your home country.

If you’re moving to Prague as a family, you must be prepared to provide your child’s previous school records and birth certificate.

ADMINISTRATIVE PREPARATIONS

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Address & phoneSend change of address notices to banks and credit card companies. Even if you don’t yet have a permanent address in Prague, you should let your bank and credit card companies know that you’re in the Czech Republic. Many banks block use of debit or credit cards in foreign countries if they haven’t been officially notified of the user’s travel plans. Check to see if your phone will work in the Czech Republic (phone should be quad band). However, if it’s a long-term move, it’s a better idea to drop or suspend your phone plan and get a Czech phone number. This process is easy and inexpensive, involving the purchase of a SIM card once you get to Prague. If you have a smart phone, it might prove useful and cost-effective to download a Skype application to your phone to keep in touch with family and friends abroad for free.

FinanceIt’s always more complicated to organise and maintain your home finances from abroad. For any monthly payments, such as to credit card companies, arrange for online payments and banking. It’s easy to forget monthly tasks from a new home. Check the status of your taxes and pension plans and make the necessary arrangements for these to be processed while you are away. Contact your bank for travellers cheques, to get details on procedures for transferring money back home and to find out the fees for using your credit card and debit card in the Czech Republic. You can also set up a Paypal account, connected to your bank account, which is a hassle-free and efficient method for sending and receiving payments online anywhere in the world.

ADDRESS, PHONE AND FINANCES

Be aware that business hours

may be completely different in your

home country, so taking care of business by

phone may be very inconvenient.

Charles Bridge at dawn

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EMBASSIES

Australia6th Floor, Solitaire Bldg, Klimentska ul. 10, 110 00(296 578 350, www.embassy.gov.au)

AustriaViktora Huga 10, Smichov, 151 15, Prague 5(257 090 511, www.austria.cz, [email protected])

BelgiumValdstejnska 6, Mala Strana, 118 01, Prague 1(257 533 524, [email protected])

BrazilPanska 5, 110 00, Prague 1 – New Town(224 321 910, [email protected])

BulgariaKrakovska 6, Prague 1 – New Town (222 211 258)

CanadaMuchova 6, Prague 6 – Dejvice(272 101 800, www.canada.cz, [email protected])

ChinaPelleova 18, Prague 6 – Bubenec(224 311 323)

CroatiaV Pruhledu 9, Prague 6(233 340 479)

DenmarkMaltezske nam. 5, 118 01, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(257 531 600, www.ambprag.um.dk, [email protected])

FinlandHellichova 1, 118 00, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(251 177 251, [email protected])

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EMBASSIES

FranceVelkoprevorske namesti 2, 118 01, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(251 171 711, www.france.cz, [email protected])

GermanyVlasska 19, 118 01, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(257 531 481, www.deutsche-botschaft.cz, [email protected])

Great BritainThunovska 14, 118 00, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(257 402 111, www.britain.cz, [email protected])

GreeceSpanelska 14, 120 00, Prague 2 – Vinohrady(222 250 955, [email protected])

HungaryCeskomalinska 20, 160 00, Prague 6 – Bubenec(233 324 454, www.huemb.cz, [email protected])

IcelandKarlova 20, Prague 1(222 221 218)

IndiaValdstejnska 6, Prague l – Mala Strana(257 533 490-93, www.india.cz, [email protected])

IndonesiaNad Budankami II/7, Prague 5(257 214 388, www.indoneske-velvyslanectvi.cz)

IrelandTrziste 13, 118 00, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(257 530 061, [email protected])

IsraelBadeniho 2, 170 01, Prague 7 – Holesovice (233 097 500, [email protected])

Check with your embassy to see what networking events it holds.

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EMBASSIES

ItalyNerudova 20, 118 00, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(233 080 111, www.italiaembassy.cz, [email protected])

JapanMaltezske namesti 6, 118 01, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(257 533 546, www.cz.emb-japan.go.jp)

MexicoNad Kazankou 8, Prague 7 – Troja(283 061 530)

NetherlandsGotthardska 6/27, 160 00, Prague 6 – Bubenec(233 015 200, www.netherlandsembassy.cz, [email protected])

NorwayHellichova 1/458, 118 00, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(257 323 737, www.noramb.cz, [email protected])

PhillipinesSenovazne namesti 8, Prague 1(224 216 397, [email protected])

PolandValdstejnska 8, 118 01, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(257 099 500, www.ambpol.cz, [email protected])

PortugalNamesti Kinskych 7, 150 00, Prague 5 – Smichov(257 311 230, [email protected])

RussiaPod Kastany 1, 160 00, Prague 6 – Bubenec(233 374 100, www.rusembassy.cz, [email protected])

Slovakia Pod Hradbami 1, 160 00, Prague 6 – Dejvice(233 113 051, www.slovakemb.cz, [email protected])

A lot of embassies hold cultural

events or bazaars every year for the

community, a good chance to meet

other nationalities.

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EMBASSIES

SloveniaPod Hradbami 15, 160 41, Prague 6 – Dejvice(233 081 211, [email protected])

South AfricaRuska 65, Prague 10 – Vrsovice(271 731 799)

South KoreaSlavickova 5, Prague 6 – Bubenec, (234 090 411)

SpainBadeniho 4, 170 00, Prague 7 – Holesovice(224 311 441, www.embajada-esp-praga.cz, [email protected])

SwedenUvoz 13, 118 01, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(220 313 200, www.swedenabroad.com, [email protected])

SwitzerlandPevnostni 7, 162 00, Prague 6 – Dejvice(220 400 611, [email protected])

ThailandRomaina Rolanda 3, Prague 6(220 571 435)

TurkeyPevnostni 3, Prague 6 – Stresovice(224 311 402)

Ukraine Charlese de Gaulla 29, 160 00, Prague 6 – Bubenec(233 342 000, www.ukrembassy.cz, [email protected])

USATrziste 15, 118 01, Prague 1 – Mala Strana(257 530 663, www.usembassy.cz, [email protected])

Most embassies have short opening hours and you often need to book an appointment; check with the embassy beforehand.

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BOOKS, FILMS AND MUSIC

BooksThe Good Soldier SvejkJaroslav Hasek (1923)Probably the best-loved Czech novel, and certainly one of the most enjoyable. It’s an unfinished collection of satirical episodes telling the story of an everyman soldier during World War I who continually frustrates his superiors through incompetence and idiocy which may or may not be feigned.

The TrialFranz Kafka (1925)You know you’re a big name when you get an adjective named after you. On the day he turns 30, Josef K is arrested and put on trial. For what, nobody will tell him. The ensuing nightmare is, well, Kafkaesque. This short novel by one of the giants of 20th-century literature was published posthumously.

The Unbearable Lightness of BeingMilan Kundera (1984)Sex and philosophy in 1968, during and after the Prague Spring. Beloved by pretentious students the world over, don’t let that put you off; it’s a rollicking read and genuinely intellectually exciting. Kundera remains Czech literature’s biggest living international star.

City Sister SilverJachym Topol (1994)An immediate sensation on publication (the Czech title is simply Sestra (sister)) for its inventive, often non-syntactical prose and maelstrom of imagery, and its depiction of a freewheeling actor careening through the underbelly of post-communist Prague. Strange and thrilling.

MusicAntonin Dvorak (1841-1904)Along with Leos Janacek, Dvorak is the most celebrated Czech composer of classical music, a global name best known for his New World Symphony and Te Deum. He incorporated Moravian and Bohemian influences into his works and spent an important three years in the United States in his late career.

The Plastic People of the UniverseThis legendary Prague rock band started up less than a month after the Prague Spring was crushed by Soviet tanks, and their nonconformist ways meant they were forced to play secret underground gigs until they took a nine-year break in 1988. They reunited at the urging of Vaclav Havel, and

Getting informed before you leave

will help you avoid culture shock and

will greatly improve your enjoyment of your time in

Prague.

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despite the death of a founding member are still playing. Check out the early albums.

Druha TravaBluegrass music was considered subversive in the communist days, and as a result continues to thrive in the Czech Republic. Druha Trava (Second Grass), along with the older Poutnici, have made a name for themselves in international bluegrass circles, as well as selling plenty of records at home since their founding in 1991.

The Original Prague Syncopated OrchestraMembers come and go in this orchestra known for making every effort to recreate 1920s jazz, including using period instruments and historically accurate improvisations. They’re great fun and it’s worth catching an open-air performance.

FilmsClosely Watched TrainsJiri Menzel (1966)The sixties were a golden age for Czech cinema, and this Oscar-winner is considered one of the classics of the era. A young boy working in a small railway station in Nazi-occupied Czechoslovakia pursues love and lust, and finds himself caught up in violence.

The Firemen’s BallMilos Forman (1967)Forman’s last film before emigrating to the US, where he went on to make films like One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest and Amadeus. This riotous farce set over one evening in a small town got him in trouble for political allegory – though he has always claimed none was intended.

KolyaJan Sverak (1996)Through a sham marriage gone wrong, a Prague cellist finds himself in charge of a five-year-old boy who only speaks Russian. Set as the Iron Curtain was preparing to disappear, this sentimental but intelligent film won the Best Foreign Language Picture Oscar and features a great performance by the director’s father in the main role.

Czech Dream (2004)Vit Klusak and Filip RemundaThis 2004 documentary depicts the opening ceremony of a hypermarket. A hypermarket that doesn’t exist. The film student directors tricked ad agencies, had billboards erected and eventually attracted over 3,000 people to the event. When the hoax was revealed, not everyone was amused. A witty and enjoyable film.

Eastern Europe has a rich cultural history and tradition. Delving into it through some of our suggestions will not be a waste of time.

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CONTENTS

When you arrive in Prague, try to get your bearings. If you don’t already have one, purchase a map at the

airport and follow your route to the hotel as you make your way there. At the hotel, ask the concierge to help you orient yourself in terms of the front entrance to the hotel – this way you’ll be able to go for a walk and more easily be able to find your way home. You can also ask your concierge to help you mark on your map places that you’ll be visiting, such as your company, prospective schools and housing options. Quiz the concierge about traffic patterns and get their opinion on travel times between different areas of the city. When combined with the opinions of others like your relocation agent and colleagues, you’ll be better informed to decide where you’ll live and where your children will go to school.

INTR

O Landing p 52

Getting Around p 54

Money and Banking p 62

Getting Connected p 64

Health Care p 66

Temporary Accommodation p 70

Finding Housing p 72

Getting Settled p 80

Culture Shock p 82

Education p 85

Education Supplement p 92

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LANDING

When you arrive: First things first

For a capital city, Prague is incredibly manageable and easy to get around. It’s a calm place and one of the safest cities you’ll ever find. It’s not too

big, but not too small either. You can easily walk around, and you’ll find yourself strolling from one end to another without any complications.

Of course, newcomers will experience culture shock and a bit of stress in settling in and adjusting, but as Prague is home to a thriving expat community, and more and more Czechs speak English, the transition can be very smooth. There are plenty of expat groups, meet-ups and social activities targeted at newcomers. You can even start exploring this community before you arrive on web portals like www.expats.cz or www.prague.tv, and start interacting with other expats, who are very willing to offer advice and address your questions and concerns.

There’s a highly efficient, user-friendly public transport system; you can get from one part to another in no more than an hour. Bakeries, butcher shops and vegetable markets (mostly owned by the thriving Vietnamese community), as well as supermarkets, are found in every neighbourhood, as are shopping malls and practically any other type of service you might be looking for, for very satisfactory prices. Although the Czech Republic is technically considered Central or Eastern Europe, the city feels Western European, and as it absorbs more and more expats and tourists, Prague can offer a very comfortable and affordable standard of living.

Prague is a calm place and one of the

safest cities you’ll ever find.

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LANDING

First things first

Register with your country’s embassy. This is a precautionary measure to take in case of any emergencies.

Prepare an emergency planBefore an emergency occurs, work out a plan of action with your family. This includes mapping out the nearest 24-hour medical facility and registering your family there (you don’t want to have to worry about paperwork in the event of an emergency). Prepare an emergency folder listing all of your family’s medical conditions, allergies, medications and surgical histories. Make cards for your children to carry with them listing your home address and the address of your preferred hospital in both English and Czech. It also helps to get to know your neighbours (and landlord) and their phone numbers, especially if they speak English. If not, have the numbers of some Czech friends, your lawyer or another Czech person you can trust or get help from in case of an emergency.

A side note: If you hear the long wailing of what seems to be an air raid siren, this just means it’s noon on the first Wednesday of the month, the time and date chosen by officials to test the city’s emergency sirens. Wherever you are in the city, you can hear this test siren wail on for about five minutes, but there’s no need to run to the nearest bomb shelter (plenty do still exist in Prague, they’ve just all been converted to bars and pubs).

Have the numbers of some Czech friends, your lawyer or another Czech person you can trust or get help from in case of an emergency.

Panoramic Prague

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GETTING AROUND

Arrival

Unless you’re arriving by train (main station Hlavni nadrazi is on the red C Metro line) or car, international flights arrive at Prague’s Letiste

Ruzyne International Airport (PRG), located toward the outskirts of the city. A taxi to downtown Prague will cost about CZK600 and take about 40 minutes, but this depends on the time of day or night. Alternatively, you can take a 20-minute ride on the 119 bus for CZK26 (purchase tickets at the bus stop right outside the terminal), which will take you to the Dejvicka Metro stop, the end of the green A Metro line. However, taking a taxi might make more sense if you have lots of heavy luggage and a jetlagged family in tow.

Orientation

For the first few weeks or couple of months, it will be useful to carry around a street map. In most areas of Prague, you’ll find yourself in a

charming maze of little back alleys and tiny cobblestone lanes. Even if you don’t have a map, getting lost is not such a problem, as you’re bound to encounter some tram or Metro stop eventually. The pleasant Vltava River runs through the city, and a walk along part of its length, starting from Cechuv Most tram stop in Prague 1, is a great way to orient yourself with some of Prague 1’s central landmarks.

On your right, up the hill, is a beautiful park, Letenske Sady (straddling the border of Prague 6 and Prague 7) with one of the best panoramic views (and the best beer garden) in the city. Keep walking and you’ll get to the bustling Malostranska Metro and tram stop, at the foot of Prague Castle. Cross the bridge here, and you’ll find the gorgeous Rudolfinum concert hall, home to the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, and just past it, the Arts and Philosophy faculty of Charles University (founded in 1348, it’s central Europe’s oldest). Keep moving along the river and you’ll come to the world-renowned Charles Bridge (leading toward Kampa Park), across from which is the grand Klementinum building, housing the National Library. Keep moving along the river, and you’ll find yourself at yet another bridge, which leads to tram stop Ujezd and the bottom of Petrin Hill. To your left is the grandiose and historic Narodni Divadlo (national theatre). Walk on further to the next bridge, and on your left you’ll pass by the famous dancing building.

Prague’s street names are mostly marked by highly visible red placards with the name in white. The house number will often be in blue as well, but you might also see a number that seems unusually high to be an address. This is the building number, so be careful not to confuse the two when you’re looking for an address.

For the first few weeks or couple

of months, it will be useful to carry

around a street map.

Be careful not to confuse the building and house numbers when looking for an

address.

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In the city centre, there are clusters of brown signs pointing you in the directions of major landmarks and Metro stops. The city has a very uncomplicated and easy-to-use Metro consisting of only three lines. There are also trams and buses that allow you to connect to anywhere in the city. The Metro, trams and buses stop running about 15 to 20 minutes after midnight, but there are night trams and night buses, following slightly different routes than in the daytime, which run until the regular day schedule begins at about 5am. The City of Prague’s transport authority has an excellent website, in Czech, English and German, where you can find comprehensive information and helpful maps to plan your route. Most importantly, there is a route planner where you can enter in your start and end point and estimated date and time of departure, and the site will come up with all the possible combinations of routes at that time and beyond, including cost, distance in kilometres, stops along the way, etc. You can find the site here: http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/praha/spojeni.

As in any major city, there is rush hour traffic and public transport and roads become much more crowded from about 6:30am to 8am, and then again from 4pm to about 5:30pm. Czechs tend to go to work earlier in order to leave work earlier – this will make more sense to you in the winter time, when darkness sets in by barely 4pm.

The City of Prague’s transport authority has an excellent website, in Czech, English and German, where you can find comprehensive information and helpful maps to plan your route.

Skateboarder in downtown Prague

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Taxis

Taxis are not really necessary in a city with such excellent and inexpensive public transport. As Prague’s roadways are currently

struggling to handle the constantly growing number of vehicles, going by car, especially in rush hour, can take over an hour longer than going by tram or Metro. However, if you need to get somewhere efficiently and haven’t yet figured out the transport system, you can always flag down a taxi on busier streets or order one by phone, SMS or even online. Many taxi drivers will not speak English, or may pretend not to understand your address, even though most taxis are now equipped with GPS systems. Ideally, it’s always best to order a taxi ahead of time to prevent yourself from being overcharged. Two of the most reliable and trusted taxi companies are AAA Taxi and Profi Taxi. When you arrive at your destination, you can request a receipt if needed. It’s acceptable to tip the driver. Payment is by cash only, and if you haven’t ordered your taxi ahead of time, always agree to a price before you get into the taxi.

Metro, trams, buses

Prague’s citizens might not be the smiley type, but they’re very considerate. If you’re moving around the city with a stroller, take

comfort in the fact that you’ll definitely be assisted by other passengers in lifting your stroller onto and off every tram, bus, escalator and staircase that you encounter.

Going by car, especially in rush

hour, can take over an hour longer than

going by tram or Metro.

Taxis in Prague

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MetroIt’s been mentioned already, but the Metro is certainly the fastest and most efficient way to get around in Prague – not to mention uncomplicated, with only three lines, A (green), B (yellow) and C (red). Trains are always on time, with a wait of 2-3 minutes on weekdays until about 8pm, after which wait time is around 6-9 minutes, as it also is during the weekend. The last train is at around 1am. Trains are very clean and quiet, and you’ll rarely encounter any jostling or pushing, even during rush hour. Prague’s citizens are patient and orderly, and exiting passengers are allowed to leave first before anyone enters the train. However, pickpocketing can easily occur on a crowded train, especially if you stand out as a foreigner. Be sure to keep an eye on your belongings and your pockets, and try to keep your voice down when speaking.

Tickets can be purchased from the machines (directions are in Czech and English) inside any Metro station, and cost CZK18 (CZK9 for children 6-15 years old) for 20 minutes or 5 stops without transfers, or CZK26 (CZK13 for children 6-15 years old) for 75 minutes. Children under 6 ride free. You can also purchase tickets from the ticket office by the escalators, and most ticket sellers speak basic English. Make sure you validate your ticket before you get onto the escalator that takes you down to the platform, as there are plenty of ticket controllers around who can stop you at any time on the platform or on the train itself and ask to see your validated ticket or transport pass. Anyone caught without a ticket must pay a fine of CZK950. Controllers may be in uniform, with a dark blue jacket, or in

Trains are very clean and quiet, and you’ll rarely encounter any jostling or pushing, even during rush hour.

Prague Metro

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plain clothes. But before you show your ticket, make sure the controller properly identifies himself with the gold and red badge. If you plan to use the public transport often (Metro, tram or bus), it’s best to buy a transport pass. The longer the validity of the pass, the better value. You can choose from a monthly, quarterly or yearly pass. These passes can be obtained only at the ticket offices of certain Metro stops (including Dejvicka) by presenting your passport and a Czech-size passport photo.

TramsTrams in Prague are not only fast and reliable, but also a fun way to see the city – as long as you can get a seat, that is. Just pick a tram line (9, 18 and 20 are good ones), and ride it to the end. The tram routes and lines do tend to change often and unexpectedly, due to construction, public holidays or city-wide events, so make sure to check your tram connection on the public transport website (http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/praha/spojeni) before going out the door. Schedules are clearly marked at each tram stop, and waiting time is shorter on weekdays (3-10 minutes) than on weekends. As on buses, validate your ticket upon entering the tram, before you sit down.

Trams can get quite crowded, so be sure to keep your bags to yourself and watch your pockets. Night trams, also known as drunk trams, start at 1am and are often watched over by a couple of police officers at the back of the tram. These trams are usually full of young people going home after a night out or on to another pub or party.

BusesBus stops, like tram stops, are all around, and also usually found right outside Metro stops, allowing you to continue your journey into less connected parts of Prague. Buses are also mostly on time, but can be crowded and uncomfortable during rush hour. Tickets must be validated immediately upon entering the bus, before you sit down. As on the Metro or tram, you’re

If you plan to use the public transport often (Metro, tram or bus), it’s best to

buy a transport pass.

Tram in Prague

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expected to give up your seat to handicapped, elderly and pregnant women, or women with young children. Clearly defined bus schedules are usually posted at each stop, in Czech, so all you need to know is the name of your stop and the direction in which you’re travelling. You can always mention the name of your stop to the bus driver if you’re unsure. If you’re in a hurry, it’s better to take a taxi, although buses do tend to have dedicated bus lanes on busier roads. Day buses come every 10 to 20 minutes, while night buses, like night trams, come every 30-60 minutes, and may have slightly altered routes.

Walking

One of the most wonderful aspects of Prague is how pedestrian-friendly the city is. As long as you cross the streets when the little

green man tells you to, and you cross at the zebra crossing, you’ll be just fine, since pedestrians have the right of way in traffic. But if you cross somewhere without zebra stripes, especially in a more touristy area, don’t be surprised if a police officer chases after you and writes you a ticket for jaywalking. Of course, as usual, the Czech police tend to go after the obvious foreigners, so try not to wear a backpack if you can help it.

Prague is famous for its cobblestone streets and sidewalks, so wear comfortable shoes if you plan to do a lot of walking, as the cobblestones have been known to bite off the heels of women’s shoes. Sidewalks are extremely well maintained, and the city provides brown paper bags on

One of the most wonderful aspects of Prague is how pedestrian-friendly the city is.

Modern tram in Prague

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street corners for picking up after your dog – Czechs are a dog-loving people, and dogs are everywhere to be seen. However, be cautious and avoid walking directly atop sewer caps and metal grates just in case. In winter, be extra careful and watch for falling icicles from balconies and tall buildings, and for icy patches on the sidewalks. Prague’s hilly topography calls for staircases here and there across the city, so if you have knee or leg problems, you’re better off taking a car or public transport instead of walking.

Driving

Driving in Prague is not terribly difficult, as drivers are pretty easygoing; however, you do have to give way to and watch out for

trams, buses and pedestrians, as well as be aware that there are plenty of tiny one-way streets. EU citizens with a valid driving licence from any EU country are legally permitted to drive in the Czech Republic. If you’re a non-EU citizen, however, and have a long-term visa or a long-term residency permit, you will need to apply for a Czech driver’s licence. This generally involves taking a month-long course and passing the written, oral and driving test. You’ll need to show your medical certificate and visa to apply. Foreigners are allowed to have a translator with them (there’s a fee of CZK1,000-2,000) during the written and oral parts of the test if it’s not in English. Czech road signs are ubiquitous and cover many different situations, most of which you will likely find yourself in, so always obey the signs. Using a mobile phone without a hands-free phone set while driving is not allowed. Czech law also requires that the front passenger be at least 12 years old, and that any younger children be seated and belted in a special plastic booster seat.

Driving in Prague is not terribly difficult, as drivers are pretty easygoing; however, you do have to give

way to and watch out for trams, buses

and pedestrians.

Below - Car versus tram

Right - Small street in Prague

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MONEY AND BANKING

Currency

The Czech Republic, unlike most other nations in the western and central European Union (including sister country Slovakia), is not

on the euro, but instead uses the Czech Koruna (‘crown’). The currency’s international abbreviation is CZK, but Kc is the notation you’ll see in the shops. The exchange rate of the koruna to the US dollar has moved between 17 and 21 for the past couple of years.

Paper notes come in denominations of 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, 2,000 and 5,000. Coins come in 1, 5, 10, 20 and 50, which is a hefty, bi-colour coin. The koruna is broken down into 100 hellers, but the heller coins were recently made obsolete. This means that prices in the stores are rounded up: 10.50 Kc becomes 11 Kc even.

Some touristy shops in the city centre will accept euros. You will often be asked for the smallest possible bill when paying, and the cashier might even seem irritated if you have only large bills to pay with. But, especially if you’re paying at a proper store, not just a little kiosk or vegetable market, the cashier is obliged to break your larger bill. Always check to make sure you’ve received the correct amount of change, and that the paper notes are not ripped in any way. Ripped notes, even when taped back together, are not accepted anywhere, except possibly the main branch of a bank.

Banks

Prague is filling up with banks, and in certain neighbourhoods you can see six or seven different banks in a row down the street. The most common

banks in Prague are Ceska Sporitelna, CSOB, KB, Volksbank, Raiffeisen, CitiBank, HSBC and eBanka. Banks are generally open Monday through Friday, from 9am to 6pm. All banks offer debit cards, currency exchange and Internet banking, as well as money transfer services to and from your home country. To open a basic account, all you need is your passport. Be aware that if you need to close your account, it takes approximately 30 days after you put in the request.

Upon entering the bank, you’ll usually have to take a ticket and wait for your number to be called. Both CSOB and Ceska Sporitelna are known for their expat-friendly banking services, with English-speaking bank representatives. Ceska Sporitelna even has a large Expat Centre branch at 29 Rytirska in Prague 1, near the Vaclavske Namesti tram stop.

ATMsBoth standalone and bank building ATMs are plentiful throughout the city, and usually accept Visa, MasterCard and Cirrus. Withdrawals from an ATM that belongs to your Czech bank may still incur a fee, depending on the type of account you have. You’ll be charged a fee for international withdrawals

You will often be asked for the

smallest possible bill when paying, and the cashier might

even seem irritated if you have only large bills to pay

with.

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through any Czech ATM by the Czech bank, as well as by your home bank. Make sure that you’ve notified your home bank that you’re in the Czech Republic so your card isn’t blocked when you attempt to take out money. You’ll find that there’s a withdrawal limit of CZK12,000-15,000 at most ATMs at any given time.

Exchanging money

You’ll find plenty of private firms offering zero commission exchange, but make sure to check the exchange rates. Banks often have decent

rates, but charge a commission. Only certain banks will exchange travellers cheques, including KB and CSOB. The transaction fee is about 2-3 percent.

Using your credit card

MasterCard, Visa and American Express cards are accepted in most hotels, high-end restaurants and bars and big retail shops. Smaller

shops and boutiques, kiosks, vegetable markets, cafes and restaurants often accept only cash.

Tipping

The easiest and most common way of tipping is simply to round up your bill. If your bill at a restaurant comes to CZK468, you can

simply hand the waiter a CZK500 note and tell him you don’t require change. Otherwise, a 10 percent tip is fine. However, be aware that at some restaurants, you never know if your tip is going to the waiter or simply back to the restaurant.

You’ll find plenty of private firms offering zero commission exchange, but make sure to check the exchange rates.

Czech money

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GETTING CONNECTED

Mobile phones

The main telecommunication companies in Prague are UPC, O2 and Vodafone. You can arrange for phone, Internet and satellite TV

services through these companies, although prices and customer service will vary, and some companies may work better than others in certain areas of the city.

If you already have a quad band phone, you’ll find that a Czech SIM card will likely work in your phone. Some services, like Vodafone, will give you the SIM card for free if you purchase a new phone from their store. Otherwise, a SIM card costs about CZK200-300. If you choose not to sign up for a monthly mobile service, you can purchase phone credit at any kiosk or store that features a yellow SAZKA globe in front (CZK200 minimum), at a service provider retail shop, according to what brand of SIM card you have (CZK500 minimum), or through the ATMs of certain banks, including CSOB, if you have a CSOB account.

Probably the best thing about using a mobile phone in Prague is that incoming calls and text messages (SMS) are free, whether local or international. You can also purchase public transport tickets via SMS if you find yourself without enough coins to buy a ticket from a machine. Simply text “DPT” to 90206, and the cost of the ticket will be taken from your phone credit or charged to your monthly bill. If you’re stopped by a ticket controller, you can show him the time-stamped electronic ticket that has been sent as an SMS to your phone.

Internet

The most popular and reliable options for Internet service are UPC, O2 or T-Mobile. When you contact the provider, they’ll let you know

if they’re the best company for the area you live in. Some areas in the centre, due to old building infrastructure, are more difficult to supply with Internet. Sometimes the company has a deal going and will throw in your router for free. Otherwise, expect to pay about CZK400-500. A basic monthly bill for high speed (16 Mb/s) Internet runs about CZK800 a month. But almost any decent-sized cafe in Prague, touristy or not, will offer free Wi-Fi (this should be marked on the door). You might need to ask a waiter for the password. From the time that you contact the Internet provider until the time you actually have the Internet working in your apartment might be a couple of weeks, so expect to hit up a nearby cafe meanwhile.

Post & courier servicesThere are Ceska Posta (www.ceskaposta.cz) post offices all over Prague, open Monday-Friday from 8am to 6pm, but the lines get longer towards the end of the day when everyone’s on their way home from work. When you receive a package that won’t fit in your apartment mailbox, you’ll get a

If you already have a quad band phone,

you’ll find that a Czech SIM card will

likely work in your phone.

Almost any decent-sized cafe in Prague,

touristy or not, will offer free Wi-Fi.

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piece of paper from the post office instead, notifying you that the package will be held in your local neighbourhood post office for two weeks (the exact post office address and date will be given). You must bring your passport when you go to pick it up. Sometimes you may even have to pay a small fee as well, depending on the origin or contents of the package. Some post office workers, especially the younger ones, will speak English. Prague’s largest and busiest post office is located right off Jindrisska tram stop / Mustek Metro, and is actually open nonstop, aside from a break between midnight and 2am, Monday-Friday. There’s an information booth with English-speaking postal workers, but some of the postal workers at the windows also speak a little English. Mail to other parts of Europe will take a few days, and mail to North America usually takes about 6-7 days. An average letter costs about CZK12-20. Parcels can be insured, and you must fill out a customs form if the package is being sent abroad.

You can also buy cards and stamps and pay your bills (phone, Internet, etc) at any post office, but make sure you go to a window marked Penezni sluzby (money orders). You can pick up several blank forms (available right next to the window) ahead of time and fill them out at home to save time. The post office will charge CZK22 to process a money order of up to CZK5,000.

Media

When it comes to English-language media in Prague, you’ll find it easiest to turn to the Internet to stay informed of current affairs.

The Prague Post (www.praguepost.com) is the city’s only English-language newspaper, published every Wednesday. The Prague Daily Monitor (www.praguemonitor.com) has English translations of all the leading stories from the major Czech newspapers each morning. Ceska Pozice (Czech Position) (www.ceskapozice.cz/en) is an excellent news website in Czech and English.

The nation’s largest newspaper, Ceske Noviny, offers an English translation of its site (www.ceskenoviny.cz/news). Radio Praha (www.radio.cz) offers a huge selection of thoughtful and unique articles and radio broadcasts on Czech culture, lifestyle, politics and more, in English, Spanish, French, German, Russian and Czech. CIJ (www.cijjournal.com) is an English-language construction and investment publication on the latest trends and opportunities in real estate across Central and Eastern Europe.

Websites

Prague has an active expat community, and expat portals like www.expats.cz and www.prague.tv are the best ways to find out what’s going

on around town, get solid advice from experienced expats, browse the classifieds for anything from baby monitors to cars to apartments and connect with other expats. One useful and entertaining expat blog is http://rickyyates.com.

Some post workers, especially the younger ones, will speak English.

When it comes to English-language media in Prague, you’ll find it easiest to turn to the Internet to stay informed of current affairs.

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HEALTH CARE

Jet lag

If arriving from within Europe, you shouldn’t have any jet lag problems, since the time difference will be one or two hours at most. If you’re

travelling over oceans and your trip involves long layovers and too many bad airplane movies, then you might very well find yourself overwhelmed when you arrive in Prague. Even though Prague is a rather calm city for a capital, simply being in a new and strange place, surrounded by foreign sounds and signs, can add mental and emotional stress to your physical exhaustion. It’s advisable to take a taxi straight to your hotel or guesthouse, or wherever you’ve arranged your initial accommodation, and get some rest. But be aware that common symptoms of jet lag include digestive problems, headaches, fatigue, irregular sleep patterns, temporary insomnia and irritability. It can take a while to get adjusted to the time zone, depending on the person and also what season you arrive in – grey and cold winter weather may make it easier to fall asleep at any time. You should try to resist sleeping too early in the day, and set your alarm to wake you up at a normal time in the morning, regardless of when you went to sleep, in order to get into a normal pattern.

Drinking water

In Prague, tap water is completely safe (you can use it from the first day you arrive) and rather tasty. In fact, the excellent water is one of the

factors contributing to the Czech Republic’s excellent beer. However, many Czechs and expats alike still prefer to use a Brita filter system to filter out any excess amounts of added chemicals, and simply because there may be a smell from the chlorination of the water. Some people purchase bottled spring water for drinking, but this isn’t necessary. Restaurants and cafes will only serve bottled water, but you can try and ask for tap water if you prefer.

Food

For the most part, there shouldn’t be a problem purchasing the same groceries, more or less, that you normally find at home, and with the

same quality of freshness and safety – in fact, the meat and produce will likely be fresher than what you’re used to. And the food served in cafes and restaurants is perfectly sanitary and fresh. However, if you’re craving some Chinese food when you first arrive (unfortunately they don’t deliver), it’s not advisable to hit up one of the cheap Chinese restaurants that can be found every few blocks. Also, until your body has totally adjusted to the new routine, try to go easy on the heavy, greasy sausages and potato pancakes (bramboracky) sold around Wenceslas Square and other touristy areas. Of course, you’ll likely want to dive right into the best beer in the world. Just be aware that if you ask for one beer (Jedno pivo, prosim), the

The degree and duration of jet lag depends on which

direction you’ve travelled (eastward

is usually more difficult to adjust to

than westward).

For the most part, there shouldn’t be a problem purchasing the same groceries,

more or less, that you normally find at home, and with

the same quality of freshness and

safety – in fact, the meat and produce

will likely be fresher than what

you’re used to.

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default size is a half-litre. If you want to keep an eye on your beer belly, then make sure to specify that you want a small beer, a maly, instead, which is 0.33 of a litre.

Health care

In case of an emergency, you can call an ambulance by dialling 155. If it’s not critical, you can take a taxi to the nearest hospital or one that you’ve

selected ahead of time.

There are plenty of pharmacies around the city, though only a limited number are open 24 hours, 7 days a week. The pharmacy sign reads Lekarna (Czech for pharmacy) and should feature a bold green cross.

24/7 Pharmacy (Lekarna) Listings:•Prague 1: Lekarna Palackeho, Palackeho 5 (224 946 982)•Prague 2: Lekarna U Svate Ludmily, Belgicka 37 (Namesti Miru) (222 519

731)•Prague 4: Thomeyerova Hospital Lekarna, Videnska 800 (261 084 019)•Prague 5: Lekarna U Andela, Stefanikova 6 (only until 10pm) (257 320 918)•Prague 5: Motol Hospital Lekarna, V Uvalu 84 (224 435 736)•Prague 6: Lekarna Berytos, Vitezne namesti 13 (224 325 520)•Prague 7: Lekarna Letna, Frantiska Krizika 22 (233 375 599)•Prague 8: Bulovka Hospital Lekarna, Bulovka 282 (283 840 501)•Prague 10: Lekarna v Malesicich, Plananska 1/753 (281 019 258)

Preparations

There are no vaccinations or immunisations necessary to enter the Czech Republic, but it’s never a bad idea to get your children

immunised anyway. It can be helpful to make a file for each member of the family that contains all medical records and documents, like insurance certificates and cards if you already have them, birth certificates, medical and vision prescriptions, X-rays, etc. If you wear contact lenses, try and pack some contact lens solution from home, as it will cost more in Prague. Take extra pairs of contact lenses and an extra pair of glasses if possible, although glasses are inexpensive in Prague. Interestingly enough, if you’ve been considering Lasik surgery, it might be cheaper in Prague than back home. Also pack your favourite medicines and herbal supplements that you rely on and prefer, since you’ll mostly find Czech brands of medicine in Prague.

Because the winters in Prague can be long and grey, with very few hours of sunlight for four to five months, some people may react negatively and experience some minor depression. Many just call this the winter blues, but SAD (seasonal affective disorder) is something to consider and be prepared for once the winter season crawls in. It’s recommended that you

There are plenty of pharmacies around the city, though only a limited number are open 24 hours, 7 days a week.

If you’ve been considering Lasik surgery, it might actually be cheaper in Prague than back home.

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keep your home well lit, even during the day, when the outside light is simply flat and grey. Prague also has several English-speaking psychiatrists and therapists who can help you or a family member deal with this and any other culture-shock-related issues, including the professionals at www.Creativityinprague.com or www.Relocationtherapy.com.

Tick season runs from April through October in the Czech Republic, and tick bites can lead to Lyme disease. If you’re camping or hiking in areas with tall grasses, be sure to wear long sleeves and long pants tucked into your socks.

InsuranceEU citizensPublic health care in the Czech Republic is free for all EU citizens who hold a valid Provisional certificate or the European health insurance card (EHIC). These documents must be obtained from your home country before travelling and presented, along with your passport or national ID, to the Czech doctor or hospital upon treatment to avoid payment. If you enter into treatment at a private clinic or hospital, however, the services are not free. EU citizens are entitled to apply for a Czech health insurance card if they are employed by a registered Czech company or have permanent residency in the Czech Republic.

Non-EU citizensAs of January 1, 2011, non-EU citizens in the Czech Republic who are applying for or renewing long-term visas (for a stay of over 90 days) must have full coverage health insurance, known as komplexni zdravotni pojisteni. This full coverage, said to be comparable to that received by Czech citizens, varies by company but typically includes: outpatient care, hospital treatment, emergency dental care, repatriation of remains, check-up and injection for children under 15, treatment for diabetes, care during pregnancy and birth, institution and diagnostic care and even emergency treatment in other Schengen countries. Normal dental care is relatively cheap in Prague, so don’t worry if it’s not covered by your health insurance provider.

There are five Foreign Police-approved health insurance companies where this type of complex insurance for foreigners can be obtained: VZP, Maxima, Slavia, UNIQA and Victoria Volksbanken. The average minimum cost for one year’s coverage is CZK14,000, but can be as high as CZK20,000 for premium packages including dental coverage. However, you may not be able to get hold of an English-speaking consultant at all of these firms, in which case you might also consider trying an English-speaking insurance broker that will help you obtain the health insurance coverage you need for the same price offered by the health insurance firms. Coverage may be taken out per month or per year, depending on the firm.

Prague also has several English-speaking psychiatrists and therapists who can help you or a family member deal with this and any other culture-shock-related issues.

Old watermill in Prague

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TEMPORARY ACCOMMODATION

Temporary Accommodation

When you first arrive in Prague, if your housing situation isn’t already settled, it’s best to have temporary housing booked for at least a

week or two. This will give you the time you need to comfortably decide on your permanent apartment or family house. Here are some well-established, reputable hotels that can serve your housing needs for your first week in Prague.

Four SeasonsVeleslavinova 2a/1098, Praha 1, 110 00 (221 427 000)

True luxury accommodation right on the Vltava River by Staromestska, this is where celebrities like Madonna stay when they come to Prague. The hotel’s Allegro Restaurant boasts the only Michelin star in the Czech Republic.

Mandarin Oriental HotelNebovidska 459/1, Mala Strana, 118 00 (233 088 888)

An elegant five-star hotel on a quiet Mala Strana street that offers modern style blended with historically preserved architecture.

Al fresco dining at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in

Prague

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TEMPORARY ACCOMMODATION

Hilton PraguePobrezni 1, 186 00 (224 841 111, www.hiltonprague.com)

The largest hotel in Central Europe with almost 800 rooms, this hotel also offers the country’s premier sky bar, Cloud 9, on the 40-metre-high terrace.

MarriottCelnici 8, 110 00 (222 888 888, www.marriott.com)

A big advantage to staying at the Marriott is that even as it’s tucked away on a small side street, it still has a perfect location that’s walking distance from Old Town Square and many of Prague’s major landmarks and attractions.

Hotel PyramidaBelohorska 24, 16 901 Prague 6 (233 102 111, www.pyramida.cz)

This pyramid-shaped hotel is just a 15-minute walk from Prague Castle, yet is still conveniently located out of the busy and touristy centre.

Hotel apartments

Hotels can be a simple and convenient choice for shorter stays, but if you want to take more time to select an apartment or house, it will

prove more economical and practical to book an apartment-hotel or a guesthouse. Staying in this type of accommodation (complete with full kitchen, TV and stereo system, and other amenities you’re used to back home) will feel just like living in your own home, and help you start to feel more settled into a home-like routine and lifestyle in Prague. Although many of the apartment hotels are centrally located, you’ll still find it easy to get to the suburbs by car or by the city’s well-connected public transport system as you go house hunting.

Apartments TynskaTynska 7, Prague 1 (777 713 029, www.prague-apartments-tynska7.com)

U Zlate podkovy Nerudova 34, Prague 1 (257 531 497, 603 508 140, www.uzlatepodkovy.com)

Another option is to sublet an apartment from someone out of Prague for a month or two, which will definitely give you enough time to narrow down your housing options and get a good feel for the city. Make a point of searching the housing classifieds on www.Expats.cz or www.Prague.tv for sublets, or post an ad of your own before you move to Prague. Yet another possibility, although it is a bit more complicated and may not work for everyone, is to do a temporary home exchange, a service offered by sites such as www.SabbaticalHomes.com.

If you want to take more time to select an apartment or house, it will prove more economical and practical to book an apartment-hotel or a guesthouse.

Another option is to sublet an apartment from someone out of Prague for a month or two, which will definitely give you enough time to narrow down your housing options and get a good feel for the city.

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FINDING HOUSING

Finding housing

There are plenty of expat-oriented real estate agencies in Prague, but you do have to be careful which one you choose. If the prices seem

too good to be true, then they probably are. Don’t just go with the first one you find: call up several places, and make sure they speak good English and are comfortable and reliable to work with.

The housing (apartment, family house, villa) you choose will depend on a number of factors: what neighbourhood you prefer to live in, how much space you’re comfortable with, the size of your family, if you desire a garden or yard or not, how much you’re willing to spend. Working with an experienced real estate agent who knows your exact preferences and criteria can make house hunting much simpler, but be sure to find out beforehand how much commission you’ll be paying to the agent and how much assistance the agency will provide once you’ve moved in.

Here are some factors to consider when looking for a place to call home in Prague:

SpaceHow much space do you actually need? You might be used to a certain standard of living (number of rooms and bathrooms, privacy, garden, etc) in your home country, so you need to decide whether you want to maintain that standard, even if it means paying more for it. Some

Old Town, Prague

There are plenty of expat-oriented real

estate agencies in Prague, but you do have to be careful

which one you choose.

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apartments in the centre have little courtyards and may even be near huge parks, but only houses and villas outside the centre, in the outlying parts of the city, will offer you an adequate amount of green space.

Commute to work and schoolHow long will it take you to get to work and school and back? If you’re using a car, then plan to be stuck in morning and evening rush hour. If you have a babysitter or domestic help, you can have them get your children to and from school, which can save a lot of commuting. If you live and work near public transport, especially near a Metro, your commute will be much smoother and less time-consuming.

ChildrenAre you near the school your children will attend? Are there other families with children of the same age in your neighbourhood? Are there safe play areas and green spaces?

Neighbourhood conveniencesDoes the area have supermarkets selling the kind of food and household items you need? What about fruit and vegetable markets, butchers, bakeries (all of which will offer much fresher produce and meat than a supermarket)? How are the restaurants, cafes and bars in the area? Are there any that are kid-friendly? What about sports facilities or gyms?

If you live and work near public transport, especially near a Metro, your commute will be much smoother and less time-consuming.

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Safety

Although crime isn’t much of an issue anywhere in Prague, traffic can be. If you have children, you may want to consider living away from busy tram and bus hubs and traffic intersections (also for reasons of noise). This means avoiding apartments in the central neighbourhoods, which are very safe but are filled with tourist crowds in the warmer months. If you’re considering an apartment, make sure it’s on the second floor or higher.

Pets / smoking rules

This will apply mostly if you live in an apartment. Some landlords may not allow pets or smoking inside the apartment, so be sure to find out about any restrictions before you sign a contract.

Lease agreements

Lease agreements are typically made for six months or a year, but longer leases can lower the rent. A security deposit of one month’s rent is

Although crime isn’t much of an issue anywhere

in Prague, traffic can be.

Park with view of Prague Castle

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generally expected upon signing. Rent is generally paid in CZK, in cash, and usually includes utilities (water, gas, electricity, trash services, building maintenance fees, etc) paid for in advance. At the end of the year, your landlord will calculate the actual consumption of utilities, and either refund you any overpay or require you to pay for any extra consumption. You’ll likely encounter much greater consumption in winter months, due to heating costs.

If you use an agent, expect to pay a commission (possibly equal to or above one month’s rent) upon signing the lease. It’s best if you can get along with your landlord, and of course it’s very helpful if he or she speaks English, so they can help you to understand the contract. But if the contract is in Czech, be sure to have a Czech friend or lawyer help you go through it. Before you sign the contract, find out what modifications to the apartment are possible (like painting, new lights or curtains, etc), and also find out what kinds of maintenance the landlord will be responsible for.

If you use an agent, expect to pay a commission (possibly equal to or above one month’s rent) upon signing the lease.

Lake in Prague Park

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Types of housingWhen searching for a new home in Prague, expats tend to choose from the huge diversity of apartments, family houses and villas, although communist-era housing (called panelaks) is available for the curious or nostalgic.

ApartmentsPrague, like many major cities around the world, has ever-expanding city limits, and new apartment complexes are constantly sprouting up in outlying areas. Here, you’re guaranteed new buildings with all the latest amenities, some even offering sustainability. These newer apartment buildings, located in what can be called the suburbs of Prague, often have more a family and community feel, with large common areas with cafes, little grocery stores and playgrounds for the kids. Another advantage of living in a suburban apartment complex is the increased likelihood of being surrounded by greenery and natural, open spaces. Take a tram (try 20 or 14) or a Metro to the end of the line and you’ll find exactly this.

In the city centre, you’ll find only apartments, although some mansions do exist here and there. Buildings are often old, but many have been renovated (either in parts or as a whole) or are in the process of being renovated – something to watch out for if you don’t want to be disturbed all day by the sound of drilling. An un-renovated building means dealing with no lift. So if the flat you’re interested in is on the fifth floor, you may want to reconsider, unless you plan to take advantage of the stair climbing as your daily exercise routine. Parking spaces are harder to come by if you live in a more central apartment building, although new buildings usually provide underground parking for tenants. Also, although Prague has a noise curfew of 10pm, make sure you don’t happen to live on a street with popular pubs or bars, or, the worst case scenario, a herna (nonstop) bar.

Family houses and villasYou’ll find most of Prague’s older, pre-war family houses and villas in Prague 6 (Orechovka, Hanspaulka, Stresovice and the embassy village of Bubenec), Prague 5 (Strahov, Hrebenky, Santoska) and Prague 4 (Podoli, Branik, Hodkovicky). Most of these historical spaces have been refurbished or reconstructed to varying degrees. The advantage of renting a house or villa, aside from the larger living space, is that you’re likely to have some green space where the children can play and you can plant a little herb or vegetable garden. If you feel more comfortable near other expat families, Nebusice in Prague 6 is full of new houses occupied by expats, who outnumber locals there.

Right - Petrin Park and Prague

Castle Next Page

- Petrin Tower in Prague

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GETTING SETTLED

Furnishing your home

Many expat-oriented apartment and family house rentals will already be completely furnished. But if you find a good deal on a place that

has little or no furniture, or if you want to invest in a new look for your home, you have plenty of options in Prague, ranging from IKEA to unique boutique shops to antique markets.

Strangely enough, IKEA has two Metro-friendly locations in Prague: Centrum Cerny Most, Chlumecka 10 and the AVION Shopping Park, Skandinavska, Zlicin. If you don’t have a car, there’s even an IKEA shuttle bus to take you from the Metro to the store and back. Another popular but slightly more expensive furniture shop is Sconto.

There are also many smaller furniture boutiques, like Ma Maison (Dlouha 24), Vasta Nabytek (Sazavska 32) and Modernista (Betlemske namesti 5a).

And don’t forget to take a peek into a few antikvariats as you shop around. These fascinating little shops sell charming antique furniture and other old and rare items, sometimes for unbelievably good prices. Some shop owners are even open to bargaining, so don’t be afraid to try. There’s an enormous furniture bazaar right off the Libensky most tram stop, and you’ll find almost anything you‘re looking for there – and lots of things you probably weren’t particularly seeking out.

Last but not least, search through the classified ads on www.Expats.cz and www.Prague.tv for furniture being sold or even given away by other expats. Sometimes you can even find appliances or large pieces of furniture for free – the only catch is that you have to go and pick them up yourself. If your car isn’t big enough, you can rent a moving truck for about CZK600 an hour.

IKEA in Prague

Many expat-oriented apartment

and family house rentals will already

be completely furnished.

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Laundry

Most apartments and houses don’t have dryers, instead using metal or wooden drying racks which can be purchased in any department

store. During good weather, Czechs also hang their clothes out to dry on the balcony or in the courtyard. Dryers are sold in appliance stores if you really think you can’t live without one, but expect them to be smaller and more expensive than you’re accustomed to.

Dry cleaning services are expensive, but available throughout the city, mostly in Prague 2 and Prague 6 with their higher concentration of expats. You can even have clothes picked up and delivered to you if you so desire.

Domestic help

Probably the best way to find someone is to place an ad on www.Expats.cz or www.Prague.tv. If your ad’s in English and specifies the hours

you require, as well as the payment and a description of what the work involves, you’ll hopefully elicit only relevant responses from qualified and committed individuals. Another great way to find help is to simply ask around. Get contacts and information from parents at your child’s school or from expat neighbours. Some apartment buildings or landlords might already include a monthly cleaning fee, if you’re only looking for someone to come in once a month.

• Net Clean (www.netclean.cz/english.htm)• House Maid (www.housemaid.cz/en)• CityPilot.cz’s Home Help listings (www.citypilot.cz/en/serviceguide/service-

handicraft/home-help-services)

Babysitting / child care

With a large number of students and young people from around the world studying and working in Prague, you’re bound to find

someone to take care of kids full- or part-time. Of course, the most important thing is to find a babysitter or au pair you can trust, so make sure to interview several people, and to ask for references. There are agencies if you prefer to have a confirmed background check, but the hourly rate will be higher, since a portion of the fee will go to the agency. If you’re interested in having your children learn some Czech, hire a Czech with good English skills. Try posting a want ad on expat websites, or simply ask other parents at your child’s school.

Some schools offer before- and after-school programmes or babysitting, so you can drop your child off as early as 6am or 7am and pick them up as late as 7pm or 8pm.

• Andelin (www.andelin.eu/few-words-about-us-in-english.php)• Baby Agency (www.baby-agency.eu/babysitting-prague) (also offers

domestic help)

Most apartments and houses don’t have dryers, instead making use of metal or wooden drying racks which can be purchased in any department store.

With a large number of students and young people from around the world studying and working in Prague, you’re bound to find someone to take care of kids full- or part-time.

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CULTURE SHOCK

Culture ShockCulture shock is the inability to understand and react to what’s going on around you. For example, the first time you go out shopping and realise that you can’t read the labels on the food at the supermarket, or try to decipher a menu at a restaurant, many thoughts may run through your mind – you may feel uncomfortable or totally unable to control the situation. Experiencing a feeling of helplessness is common, and to be expected. Helplessness easily turns into frustration and stress. The way people react to stress varies. Some feel depressed and isolated, some become irritable and some react with cultural chauvinism – giving the impression that the way they do things back home is the best way, and locals are just not clever enough to figure it out. Depending on your own awareness of culture shock, as well as the amount of support you receive, it can last anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. Experts say that almost everyone experiences culture shock in stages.

STAGE 1 What a wonderful world! In this initial stage, Prague can do no wrong. It’s thrilling to see Eastern Europe up close. Interactions with the locals are seen as small victories, the food is wonderful – even if you can barely identify it – and each excursion is an adventure into a new land to be laboriously retold to friends and family back home.

STAGE 2 What in the world are you doing here? After a while, the euphoria of new travel fades. Your brain begins to notice patterns in your routines and the feeling of being an outsider sets in. It gets tiring to walk in crowds and dodge taxis who lay on their horn as if it was your fault for being on the pedestrian crossing. Trying to learn basic Czech is too difficult and seems pointless. In this stage, you may find yourself spending a lot of time on the phone or Internet complaining about Prague, perhaps daydreaming of being back home.

STAGE 3Prague is your new home. The day will come when you meet new friends who’ve been here less time than you. It’s somehow a pleasure to offer them pointers. You know some Czech – enough to order food, direct a taxi driver and greet your neighbours. There are social events to attend and a trip to the post office is no longer so daunting an obstacle.

Depending on your own awareness of culture shock, as

well as the amount of support you

receive, it can last anywhere from a

few weeks to a few months.

The day will come when you meet new friends who’ve been here less time than

you.

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CULTURE SHOCK

Get a GripSo what should you do to keep culture shock under control? There are measures you can take to mitigate the negative aspects.

1) Get to know your immediate locale. You may be in a foreign city, but being familiar with a few neighbourhood restaurants, markets and green areas will at least allow you to feel that you have control over your immediate domain.

2) Start a journal. This is an invaluable tool. A journal will force you to reflect on your own feelings and consequently get you thinking about ways to control them. It will also be a priceless experience to read it a year later when you’re an old hand in Prague.

3) Sign up for a Czech class. Knowing even a few phrases right away makes a big difference when speaking to the neighbourhood shopkeeper. It’s also a good way to meet other expats.

4) Gain a new perspective. After all, you’re in an entirely new place. Try to be an explorer and see things existentially, learning from a unique and ancient culture. Keep in mind that when Czech people visit your country, they experience culture shock as well.

A journal will force you to reflect on your own feelings and consequently get you thinking about ways to control them.

Czech fans at a volleyball game

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EDUCATION

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One of the biggest concerns of parents when they learn that they will be relocating overseas is how

their children will adjust and be educated. “Will they be happy? Will they be safe? Will they be able to reintegrate when they return home?” These are all questions that parents ask themselves before departure.

What they learn upon arrival in Prague is that the city has a wide array of educational choices available, including world-class schools like The English International School Prague. Parents are quickly comforted with the knowledge that their children will be safe, happy and well educated.

EDUCATION IN

Prague

CHOOSING A SCHOOL

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Primary and secondary schooling

Prague’s primary and secondary school community boasts programmes with increasingly elaborate facilities and varied academic offerings.

For expat families that want an education using a standard international curriculum, Prague offers a range of international schools offering International Baccalaureate (IB) programmes. In recent years, these IB programmes have gained popularity with secondary schools thanks to their global appeal and recognition from top universities worldwide. Some of the international schools have a waiting list, but the number of spaces is increasing. However, admissions departments recommend applying by early March, as most schools begin finalising their rosters at that time. Contact admissions directly to find out if there is space in the specific years of your children. Most schools do not require an entrance exam, though an assessment may be required for students with less advanced English skills. Otherwise, parents and students simply fill out an application form and provide previous school records, medical records, standardised test scores and sometimes a letter of recommendation.

Most schools do not require an entrance exam.

International schools in Prague are focal points for community life. A strong sense of community will help your child and family adjust better to life in the Czech Republic.

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Tips for Choosing a SchoolParents who have been through the process before say that finding the right school for your child starts with asking the right questions. In Prague, expat families have a variety of schools from which to choose. The choices range from prestigious international schools to local schools. No two schools are the same, including the ones with multiple campuses. Institutions can vary in terms of curriculum, facilities, size, cost, location, activities, philosophy and sometimes even in teacher experience.

Before you pick up a single brochure, contact an admissions officer or set foot on a campus, prepare to request answers to these three key questions:

1) What is the student to teacher ratio, and what certifications do teachers have? 2) How will this school prepare my child for university? and 3) Does this school provide an environment in which my child will thrive?

1) What is the student to teacher ratio, and what certifications do teachers have?

Research throughout the world has consistently indicated that good teachers are the key element of children’s developmental and academic success. Furthermore, quality teachers are able to thrive when the student to teacher ratio is low. Smaller class sizes permit teachers to attend to the

Research throughout

the world has consistently

indicated that good teachers are

the key element of children’s

developmental and academic success.

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Though this guide was produced by The English International School, you can rest assured that our advice regarding education is impartial and accurate.

needs of each individual student and be innovative in presenting course material and facilitating learning. Be sure to ask admissions officers about teachers’ qualifications and school class sizes. Follow up by visiting a few classrooms and feeling the atmosphere.

2) How will this school prepare my child for university?

If your child is in secondary school, then knowing which country your child wants to head to after graduation will help determine which curriculum is best suited for them. American universities are familiar with the British curriculum and vice versa. The IB programme is recognised worldwide. Students who plan to study in the UK or Asia (other than mainland China) are best served by preparing for and taking IGCSE exams in Year 11. Likewise, though Canadian and Australian students have a bit more flexibility, most parents prefer to educate their children in the British curriculum. The English International School Prague offers IB options (either the more intensive diploma programme or the certificate programme) for Years 12 and 13. Of course, an IB diploma is portable and both American- and British-system schools offer the IB programme.

3) Does this school provide an environment in which my child will thrive?

Ultimately, selecting a school comes down to personal taste. It’s tempting to try to generalise, but the fact is a large student body does not automatically mean a school is impersonal. Likewise, a small student body does not automatically mean a school lacks in course or activity options. If you can, visit the school and get a sense of the atmosphere. Read school marketing materials critically to determine their emphasis. Most importantly, talk to other parents. Ask what they like about the school and what they would change. Make the most of your school visit by paying attention to the tone of classrooms as well as general areas, noting interactions between students and teachers and among students themselves.

Here are some additional questions that parents report are helpful when gauging a school:

• What is the annual turnover rate of teachers?• What percentage of teachers are certified to teach in their home

country?• What IB classes are available? Which are the most popular?• What foreign languages are available and are students required to

study Czech?• Where do graduates go to university? • What extracurricular activities are available?• What community service opportunities are available?

Visiting a school offers the most valuable insight into whether the school is right for your child.

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EDUCATION

Universities and higher education

If you have the desire and time to take on another degree or finish one, Prague might be a good place for you. Tuition at a state university, such as

Charles University, is free for Czechs and foreigners alike. The only catch is that the lectures are probably in Czech.

Charles University (founded in 1348) is a highly esteemed institution and offers many courses, and even several degrees, in English as well.

Several US universities have branches in Prague, including University of New York in Prague, University of Northern Virginia Prague School of Business and the newly-established University of Pittsburgh Executive MBA Program.

Prague’s highly respected film school, FAMU, recently opened up a 3-year master’s degree programme (taught in English) at a fee of 16,800 euros per academic year. Anglo-American University is a private university offering bachelor’s and master’s degrees, costing about CZK50,000 per semester, with all courses taught in English.

Charles University in Prague

Tuition at a state university, such as

Charles University, is free for Czechs

and foreigners alike.

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EDUCATION

Language courses

Even if your daily routine doesn’t require you to know much Czech (especially since more and more Czechs are learning English),

learning the language can make your transition to your new life in Prague more smooth and comfortable. Pick up a pocket dictionary (slovnik) and carry it around with you at all times, and soon enough you’ll be able to decode cafe menus, grocery store labels and advertisements on the Metro. Take some lessons or enrol in a class and you’ll be chatting with your neighbourhood butcher in no time. The most important thing is to be consistent and to not be shy with your newly acquired vocabulary: practise as much as possible with your Czech friends and colleagues.

Advertisements for Czech language courses, language schools and private language lessons are posted up all over the city, and the school or course you select will depend entirely on how much you’re willing to pay and how much time you can commit to the course. Generally, the larger, well-advertised schools are also going to have larger class sizes (and larger tuition fees) and may not have the best teacher-student ratio. Ask about Czech language courses or tutors that might be available through your workplace or your child’s school.

If you choose to take private lessons, know that although this method might seem more intensive and effective, before you make an agreement, make sure that the teacher has experience in teaching foreigners and has a structured teaching method to help you reach your specific language goals in the time frame you desire. Just because someone speaks a language fluently, it doesn’t necessarily mean that he or she can teach that language (though this is what many expat English teachers in Prague seem to believe). It might be best to get recommendations of private Czech tutors from other expats.

Language exchanges (also called tandems) are another option, most popular with university students. You can find offers on www.Expats.cz, www.Prague.tv and on flyers in expat hangouts around the city.

If you’re the type who prefers learning online in your own time, you might be interested in trying out www.LiveMocha.com, which offers free (and pay) courses where your submitted work is promptly and effectively reviewed by native speakers.

Learning the language can make your transition to your new life in Prague more smooth and comfortable.

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EDUCATION SUPPLEMENT

The English International

School Prague is part of Nord Anglia

Education – a world leader in delivering

education excellence.

The school is characterised by its vibrant, warm and

friendly atmosphere, which ensures that

members of the community feel

involved and valued.

The English International School is a small and thriving multinational learning community set in purpose-built modern buildings on

the southern edge of the beautiful city of Prague. Our aim is quite straightforward. We seek to ensure that all of our students, regardless of gender, nationality or ability, emerge from EISP as successful and confident young people who can make an outstanding contribution.

How do we do achieve such ambitious aims for our young people? We do all we can to ensure that the level of resource and provision in the school is outstanding. Engaged young people, working in a lively, stimulating, supportive, safe, modern environment are producing great things – not only in terms of academic achievement (success) but also in terms of personal growth and development (confidence).

This comes from the fact that they’re encouraged to take responsibility for their own progress within the supportive framework of the English National Curriculum – which is used in thousands of schools worldwide, but here in Prague only at EISP.

The curriculum is personalised for our young people (who are of 41 different nationalities) through the passionate commitment and skill of our teachers (supported by outstanding assistants in many classes) who are all fully qualified and most of whom have recent and in-depth experience of the curriculum they are working with. In addition, an intelligent

“The principle goal of education is to create men and women who are capable of doing new things, not simply repeating

what other generations have done; men and women who are creative, inventive and discoverers, who can be critical and

verify, and not accept, everything they are offered.”

by David Rowsell, PrincipalThe English International School

Prague, Czech Republic

Our School

Jean Piaget, educational pioneer (1896-1980)

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programme of continuous professional development ensures that they continue to learn and develop their skills for the rich but challenging variety of young people they work with on a daily basis.

Furthermore, our ambition for our young people as valuable citizens (contribution) in an increasingly complex future is served by the fact that we are an IBO World School.This means that throughout our work in school, from Early Years to the IB Diploma itself in Year 13, in lessons and in a varied and enriching extracurricular programme, students are encouraged to foster crucial skills, ideals and values: teamwork, enquiry, balance, openness, reflection, risk taking, critical thinking, respect and compassion.

We hope that they will leave fully equipped not only to deal with the increasing complexities and challenges of the modern world, but also with the desire to try and verify rather than merely accept, and to change the world for the better through service to others.

This sounds like serious stuff – and it is. In addition, however, we work tremendously hard as a team to ensure that young people can move seamlessly to their next learning (here or elsewhere) and have cherished memories of their time as a young person in EISP – be that from lessons, clubs, music, plays, sport or the countless other activities that make life at this school so rich and vibrant.

From Primary through to IB, students are continually offered new challenges and experiences through extracurricular opportunities in many areas.


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One of the big challenges facing expat parents coming to Prague is the choice of school. There are many schools operating different styles of education here, but one of

the biggest differences facing parents is between the American and the British curriculum. Teachers and school leaders are often asked which is the best, but it’s really a question of what the difference is between the two systems.As Principal of The English International School in Prague, I truly believe that ‘British is Best’ and am proud of the high academic standards and the care that is shown to pupils at my school. A product of the English state education system myself, I spent 28 years teaching in UK comprehensive schools, including 10 years as a Headteacher in south Yorkshire. On moving to Prague, I was determined to bring the best of British, modifying it to the international school mould to ensure that the features of the best schools in the UK were implanted here.

MAKING AN

THEEDUCATED CHOICE

THE English International SCHOOL, prague

By David Rowsell, Principal

BRITISH AND AMERICAN CURRICULa

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TThe American model is potentially an excellent system, in just the same way the old French Highway Code system has potential and is an excellent driving system. If everyone meets the criteria at all levels, it allows a great deal of flexibility in courses to choose from and allows schools to develop individual courses that align with the specialities of their teachers.

This is because the American system uses the idea that school districts can choose the courses offered to students in their schools. Although all schools offer broadly the same range of compulsory subjects, the choice of

electives varies dramatically based on ideology, religious denomination and in most cases funding and resource issues. For example, you can’t offer a Band elective if you only have a voice teacher and no money to buy adequate instruments.

Another issue that arises from there being so many potential curricula is the ability to gain access to specialist approved resources. This is particularly difficult with sensitive subjects like History, Religion and Biology, where there’s huge variance and debate across the US at this time. The UK, a smaller country, has one curriculum, which


means that all resources produced in the UK meet the needs of the students in that course. The teachers can choose the one they feel is the best, rather than the one which applies to the course curriculum set by the state. The layered approach of the British system also means that in the unlikely event that you don’t get taught a topic this year you’ll meet it again next year and the year after. You’ll thus be able to catch up in bits rather than in one huge, stressful block.

Possibly the most important consideration, though, is standardisation. Who monitors the progress of the teachers and who decides whether the students are at a particular level, especially if the course is a small one that only has one teacher in the school? Can a principal be conversant in all areas of all courses taught in the school? In a K-12 school this would need an exceptional individual. In the UK this is simply addressed by having fixed standards for each subject which are externally moderated.

“The layered approach of the British system also means that in the unlikely event that you don’t get taught a topic this year you’ll meet it again

next year and the year after”




TThe lack of consistency and rigour has led to the need for SAT examinations and the ‘No Child left Behind’ Act in the US. To get around this issue many US schools have adopted International Baccalaureate (IB) programmes to guarantee at least a degree of rigour.

Finally, there’s a misconception that to go to a US university you need an American secondary education. The reality is that nothing could be further from the truth. US universities all accept the IB and in many cases prefer it to any other qualification because of the guaranteed standards and flexibility of the students who have the diploma. As international parents, the problems with a US-based education are compounded with potentially missing units and the need to coordinate a GPA score that may have been generated at three different schools of three different qualities.

In England, there is one National Curriculum, modelled on sound

educational research into how children learn. The investment by the UK government into improving the effectiveness of UK schools has led to a high level of skill and understanding of the best way to allow children to grow and excel in their learning at school. A key feature of this is the fact that there is regular assessment of children’s progress against a set of benchmarks, individually tailored to the child’s needs and abilities. At The English International School, Prague these are regularly communicated to students and parents and can be seen online by both. These are challenging targets which stretch students and enable them to do their best.

We communicate constantly with students, colleagues and parents to ensure that each student has the personal support necessary for them to achieve their best. The results at the school over the past year clearly demonstrate that this strategy is working.


Evaluation over the past year also shows outstanding student attainment and progress across the board, with external IB scores standing up very well compared to global averages. Our school is non-selective, taking children of all abilities and providing a learning experience fit to their individual needs. Setting by ability in Maths and English starts at an early stage in the Primary school and continues through the secondary curriculum. This allows children to work at a level suited to their own needs. It’s a flexible system that enables children to excel in their strengths and be given greater support in their areas of weakness.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Principal David Rowsell was born in Leeds, northern England and is proud of his Yorkshire roots. His family home is cur-rently in York. Having studied at schools in the Midlands and in Cheshire, he studied English and History at Jesus College Cambridge, graduating in 1981. Since then David has taught in a variety of challenging state comprehensive schools across England – in Milton Keynes, in Devon and in Yorkshire. He has 17 years of Deputy and Headship experience and joins the school from Rossington All Saints Church of England School in Doncaster, where he had

been Head since 1998. David is a sports fanatic who runs long distances (marathons and beyond) and will watch football at any ground or level you care to mention. He also has a ridiculously large collection of soul and jazz music and enough books to start a shop.

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EDUCATION SUPPLEMENTEDUCATION SUPPLEMENTEDUCATION SUPPLEMENT

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EDUCATION SUPPLEMENTEDUCATION SUPPLEMENTEDUCATION SUPPLEMENT

THE ENGLISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLPRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC


ChoosingRightthe

School

Parents often ask me what to look for in a new school. Helping parents to select a

school in the UK state sector was an important part of my role as a school leader in three large comprehensive schools in the UK. Parents needed to choose from a wide range of schools, specialist schools and academies, often quite close together physically and often with very little, on the surface, to distinguish them from each other.


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OOn the international circuit it’s also a complex and potentially difficult process, as schools use an increasing variety of curriculum frameworks and have very diverse student populations. In Prague, as in most parts of the globe, the British and American systems tend to be the most prevalent, but many other systems are represented, as

are international options like the International Baccalaureate.

You should of course try to gather as much information as you can, both directly from schools and from independent sources (such as websites like www.expats.cz). Personal recommendations are often a highly valuable source. Most schools will


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be happy to put you in touch with current parents from your home country to give you an insider’s view of the school and its performance.

I would say to be aware of assertions that cannot be backed with evidence. Mark Twain may have said that we should be wary of “lies, damned lies and statistics”.

However, the best schools today do keep a lot of information and data about their performance and that of the students. You should, of course, use this, but always be prepared to challenge the school critically on its claims.

There is nothing wrong with the rigour that, in particular, the English National Curriculum brings to students’ learning in this respect. I think it’s vital that young people should be able to speak confidently about their academic strengths, weaknesses and progress, and about specifically how they can improve.

Something that cannot, and should not, be measured by hard data is the value added by the school. You should ask schools to convince you about the academic progress of young people, which will often be measured in grades and levels. However, schools are about more than just a young person’s academic achievement. Personal progress and development is absolutely crucial, and IBO schools in particular are great at developing the so-called softer skills, such as teamwork, enquiry, risk taking, respect and compassion.

This is often best seen in the atmosphere around the school, the general conduct and manners of the students and the variety of activities they enjoy. However, the very best schools are becoming


adept at evidencing this too without ticking boxes and turning everything into statistics. Ask them about this evidence – it’s a good challenge.

It is often (and I believe rightly) said that schools stand or fall by the quality of their students. Are young people at the school successful, confident, making a real contribution to their community and well prepared for the next move, wherever that may be? If the answer is ‘yes’, you’re almost certainly looking at a high quality school.

How can you best find this out? My advice is to visit on a typical working day and ensure that you see the school as it is with no restrictions.

Make sure you talk to as many students and staff as you can. Ask that this be the case – don’t just settle for the standard tour or even the principal’s speech. Ask lots of questions, and make sure you get full and convincing answers on issues that are important to you and your family. During your visit, also ask yourself some questions. Would you be happy to entrust your children’s education and wellbeing to the people you meet? What is the atmosphere like? Is it purposeful? Are pupils and staff respectful of each other and communicating well? Are the pupils happy? Would you be pleased if your children conducted themselves in the same fashion?

Ultimately the best way to judge the school is based on a normal working day with no show and sell. If possible, ask whether you can tour the school on your own (as well as with a guide). Ask also whether your child can come for a taster morning or whole day – the best schools will always oblige on both counts.

In addition, be wary of schools which simply tell you what they have – most schools have the same things in the final analysis. The best schools listen to the needs of the family and the children and show if and how they can cater for those needs. The very best will even be honest in telling you sincerely which needs they cannot match!

Be wary about a school’s facilities – they can be used to seduce prospective parents, and can be very influential in the decision-making process. However,

The best schools listen to the needs of the family and the children and

show if and how they can cater for those needs




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it doesn’t necessarily follow that a school with outstanding facilities is of high overall quality. Facilities are of course important, and most good international schools boast excellent extracurricular facilities. Most schools these days also have significant ICT infrastructure in terms of suites or laptops and interactive white boards. A word of caution is once again in order. Are these facilities used well? Do they support high quality teaching and learning? I strongly suggest you ask to see examples of student work in order to examine the sort of progress being made by students and supported by the facilities.

There are other considerations apart from the school itself, such as the proximity of expat housing and facilities, and travel time from home and work. These issues cannot be ignored, but usually (and certainly in the case of the English International School Prague) there is no shortage of high quality housing stock in the vicinity of the school.

The single most important factor, I suggest, should be the attitude and quality of the people involved in the organisation. To be successful, a school has to have high quality professionals across the age range and the subject areas, dedicated to the

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task of bringing out the best in the children in their care. The best staff do not focus purely on exam results, despite their obvious importance. They also concern themselves with their students’ all-round development. Most successful people are able to communicate and interact successfully with others. Interpersonal skills such as polite conversation, good behaviour and social graces and understanding and appreciating other people and cultures are therefore all-important attributes.

The people create the right environment, and are role models with a hugely important role in inspiring and developing children in many different ways. Good staff cater for each child’s individual needs and understand how best to motivate and support the children in their care, thus bringing out the best in them. Great staff are intelligently passionate and give unstintingly of their commitment and time.

Ultimately it will come down to your gut reaction. Does the school feel right to you? And, if your children are mature enough to be involved in the decision, does it feel right to them? If the answer to these questions is yes, and the school provides the right curriculum in your language of choice, you have probably found the right school. However, if there are a number of things you immediately take against or that conflict with your own core values, then I strongly advise you to keep looking.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Principal David Rowsell was born in Leeds, northern England and is proud of his Yorkshire roots. His family home is currently in York. Having studied at schools in the Midlands and in Cheshire, he studied English and History at Jesus College Cambridge, graduating in 1981. Since then David has taught in a variety of challenging state comprehensive schools across England – in Milton Keynes, in Devon and in Yorkshire. He has 17 years of Deputy and Headship experience and joins the

school from Rossington All Saints Church of England School in Doncaster, where he had been Head since 1998. David is a sports fanatic who runs long distances (mara-thons and beyond) and will watch football at any ground or level you care to mention. He also has a ridiculously large collection of soul and jazz music and enough books to start a shop.

helping others to be the best they can be


Education and learning have always been our focus and our

area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be.

CONTACT [email protected] TO ARRANGE A VISIT TO OUR SCHOOL OR TO ORDER A SCHOOL PROSPECTUS

HELPINGWe do everything to support people and be useful to them, always keeping their best interests at heart.

OTHERSOur communities: students, parents, policy makers, the societies in which we live and, of course, our own people. Our work reaches all of them.

THRIVETo grow. To flourish. To learn. To be inspired. To stretch yourself further than you, or anyone else, thought possible. To experience more. To keep going, onwards and upwards, closer and closer to your aims and dreams.



In a diverse and multicultural city like Prague, we are always very aware that every student at an international school has their own unique set of needs and aspirations. However, when it comes to selecting a post-16

course, I believe that there are two fundamental requirements which are common to everyone.

First, it is essential that we offer a course which results in qualifications which allow every student to progress to the next phase in their education or career. The International Baccalaureate Diploma is unique in that it offers a truly international qualification which is not tied to any particular national system, leading to recognition by universities from all over the world.

With over 775,000 students in 138 countries, the IB is expanding rapidly and is seen by many institutions as the best pre-university course around. A strong IB Diploma can let students gain admission to one of the best universities in the world.

IBTHE BESTOF

BOTH WORLDS

THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SHANGHAI

THE english INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Prague

By Andrew Joy, IB Coordinator


and




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EEven more important, though, is that we help students to develop the skills, knowledge and attitudes that will lead to a successful life. We are very conscious that when students have completed their secondary schooling at The English International School Prague, they must be ready to face the challenges of independent study at university or college, often living alone for the first time in their lives. Merely getting a student to a good university is not enough. The student needs to have the academic background and the study skills to enable them to thrive in that environment and then go on to build a successful career.

In the International Baccalaureate Mission Statement, a stated aim is to “develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who help to create a better and more peaceful world through intercultural understanding and respect”. This is in line with our

own mission statement, in which The English International School Prague is described as “an environment of respect, intercultural understanding and integrity; a community where everyone feels involved, valued and successful; a place where individuals make a difference”. Certainly, the formidable combination of the top-quality teaching and facilities at EISB and the highly regarded IB course is an excellent preparation for higher education.

Every IB Diploma student studies six different subjects, which must include courses in language and literature, a second language, a social science, a natural science and Mathematics. They are also strongly encouraged to study one of the arts. This breadth of study helps to develop the sort of well-rounded education which is demanded by our increasingly cosmopolitan globalised society. BISB offers an outstanding selection of subject choices.

“Every IB Diploma student studies six different subjects,

which must include courses in literature, a

second language, a social science,

a natural science and Mathematics”

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All IB subjects incorporate a coursework element, ensuring that a significant part of the assessment is based on applying the knowledge learned in class. The science courses, for example, are designed to provide a balance between understanding theory and practical experimentation. In subjects such as Visual Arts, the entire syllabus is coursework-based, meaning that learners are actually continuously creating art as well as studying it.

However, what particularly distinguishes the IB Diploma from other post-16 courses are three unique elements, all of which are geared towards developing the skills which will bring success in higher education and in later life. These are the Extended Essay, the Theory of Knowledge course and the Creativity, Action, Service programme.

Students will find that in university there is an increasing focus on producing work which is well-researched and written to a high academic standard. Working on the 4,000-word Extended Essay allows them to develop some of those skills under the expert supervision of one of our experienced teaching staff. Selecting one of their six subjects, they form a thesis question in a topic of their choice before embarking on extensive research. The net result of a process which can take a whole year and several drafts and redrafts is a piece of work which is of greater quality and depth than anything they have ever done before.

The Theory of Knowledge course helps to develop analytical and critical thinking skills. Combining a philosophical approach with a more practical look at how knowledge is obtained in contrasting academic disciplines, it encourages rigorous thinking processes as well as an understanding of different perspectives. Part of the assessment is by oral presentation, which develops important public speaking skills.




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TThe third of these special elements of the IB is the Creativity, Action, Service (CAS) programme, which aims to help students realise their potential to become leaders and organisers, as well as to establish their position as a contributing member of a caring community. It is a practical course which takes place outside the classroom and involves such varied activities as sport, drama, art, creative skills and community service. IB students take ownership of this process by initiating projects of their own and by reflecting on their own progress throughout.

CAS projects have produced some memorable moments. Within the Creativity component, CAS students have organised and compered a school talent show and our IB dinner parties become more creative and ambitious every year. There have been some unforgettable performances in music and drama, while other students have also made essential contributions to

productions by working backstage on props and lighting. The Action part of the CAS programme has opened up opportunities to learn new sports such as canoeing, rock climbing and ice-skating, as well as take part in organised cycling trips and hikes. In the area of Service, links have been established with a number of charities, both locally and internationally. Our students have been involved in the practical work of organisations such as Wonderlamp, Habitat for Humanity and the school-building project in Senegal and have also raised substantial sums of money for these charitable causes.

All in all, the International Baccalaureate Diploma provides a coherent, yet varied, educational experience. The emphasis on independent inquiry and the demanding workload provide ideal preparation for higher education and promote attitudes that will stand students in good stead throughout their lives.




English International School Prague: IB, internationalism and global citizenshipHere at the English International School Prague, students come from diverse and varied cultural backgrounds, with over 40 different nationalities attending. Using the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme as the post-16 study option was, therefore, a natural choice.

The International Baccalaureate is fast becoming the most recognised, celebrated and important post-16 qualification offered by schools across the globe. The IB now operates in 141 different countries, with 3,271 schools and 949,000 students. The aim of the IB Organisation is stated as: “to develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who help to create a better and more peaceful world through intercultural understanding and respect”.

An important aspect of the IB Diploma Programme that we at EISP particularly focus on is the concept of global citizenship. George Walker, former director general of the IBO and author of numerous books and articles on international education, explains the strength of the IB Programme as: “a particular style of education – broad, interdisciplinary, active and reflective, involving particular learning experiences such as speaking more than one language, serving the community, pursuing a passion in depth – that will give students the capacity to build peaceful relations that will make the world a better place.”

IB educators and students at EISP have embraced this concept on a number of different levels. At classroom level, students are encouraged to initiate enquiries, communicate effectively and debate issues in a principled, caring and reflective manner. Subject choices span a range of languages, including English, Czech, Chinese, Russian, Korean, French, German and Spanish. Topic choices within subject areas


tackle issues that concern us all in a rapidly globalising world, including recognition of diversity, international cooperation and the importance of sustainability and the environment.

The school as a whole is involved with many activities, including World Health Day and World Maths Day, raising awareness of Children in Conflict and environmental organizations and improving and creating a better Habitat for Humanity. We’re also careful to pay attention to supporting local needs such as the elderly and local orphanages.

Within the past four years, IB students from EISP have funded charitable events and visited locations as diverse as Romania, Macedonia, Ukraine and Uganda in support of organised projects. These have included rebuilding habitable residences, teaching and providing resources for an African school, staffing orphanages and learning about health care in different parts of the world. Students have taken part in international conferences through organisations such as the Model United Nations and debated in inter-school exchanges. EISP sporting achievements also involve exchange visits to events held in numerous different European locations.

The IB Programme at the English International School Prague provides a platform that enables our students to enter the most respected universities and vocational institutions. Furthermore, EISP students are given the opportunity to develop in the international and principled direction encouraged by George Walker and the IB as an organisation, namely through the provision of:

“an education for international mindedness; an education designed to break down the barriers of race, religion and class; an education that extols the benefits of cultural diversity; and above all else, an education for peace.”


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THE BRITISH SCHOOL OF BEIJINGBy Mike Embley, Executive Principal

One critical aspect of a student’s time spent at school which is often overlooked by parents when choosing a school is the ethos which the school engenders in

its pupils. While it’s easy to look at class size, pupil-teacher ratios and even academic grades, the way in which the students behave is more difficult for a parent to assess in a short time.

In fact, even though this element of a school’s culture can be difficult to assess, it’s just as important to a child’s wellbeing and happiness, and indeed future success, as those other areas of a school’s life which are sometimes given sole attention.

The best schools realise that this issue is critical and spend a great deal of time and effort to ensure a culture of healthy mutual respect and disciplined behaviour. Students greet teachers in the corridors with “Good morning, Mr Smith” and the teachers respond in kind.

Fundamentalsof

Success


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When an adult enters the classroom, the students stand as a mark of respect. Of course, in return the students are treated in kind.

Other aspects of this culture of social graces may be seen in the dining hall, where student table manners are monitored and older students assist younger students with their food and eating habits. Also, attention to the details of uniform are at times seen as stifling by some students, but in time come to be seen as a matter of pride and belonging.

These might seem at first glance to be small things, but as any parent will know,

consistent high expectations coupled with guidance and a feeling of safety are crucial in the proper development of any child.

Engendering a well-behaved and socially adept student body has direct consequences for the school as a whole. Students pick up the habits of those around them very quickly, and if role models display poor behaviour this can quickly spread, leading otherwise well-mannered children down a path to less desirable consequences. Of course, all this feeds back into the academic life of a school. Teachers who are not spending many hours dealing with petty, or indeed not so petty, matters

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of discipline or respect can focus their energies on inspiring young minds and helping students to achieve.

As mentioned earlier, it’s not only the students who are expected to take up this behavioural pattern of respect and good manners. The teaching and administration staff of the school have a role in modelling this behaviour and setting a good example. It’s vital that all members of staff are committed to upholding the values of the school and demonstrating them to the pupils at all times.

In these modern times it’s important to note that these values are not aimed at stifling creativity or marking a return to some of the less pleasant ‘children should be seen and not heard’ attitudes of the past. Children can be encouraged to thrive and do, in fact, feel more secure in a compassionate, structured, pleasant atmosphere of simple good manners and behaviour. Some traditional types of behaviour are worth maintaining and adapting to serve students in the world today.

This includes adapting them to the new ‘netiquette’ and Internet safety issues that students must now be aware of. The idea that children today are born knowing how to use the Internet and how to stay safe while online is patently untrue. The idea that there are no social norms to be respected while online is also false. Keeping a careful eye on these matters is vital for the safety and

development of the children in our care as they learn to use these vital tools.

The approach to the ethos of a school is a holistic one almost by definition. It is one that must be nurtured by all staff, parents and students. It is one to which a little attention must be given every day and it is, ultimately, the difference between a school which merely educates the children in its care and one which guides and cares for them while they make the sometimes difficult journey towards finding a confident, successful and happy place in the world.


WHEN YOU ARRIVE


THE BRITISH International SCHOOL ShanghaiBy Mark Angus, Principal

Everyone wants the business of starting in a new school to be as smooth, quick and painless as possible, especially if it’s also in a new country. Pupils want to meet their new classmates and

teachers and make friends as soon as they can, while parents want to feel reassured that they have made the right decision and that their child will be happy and flourish in their new environment, so they can stop worrying!

Schools also want joining a new learning environment to be a positive experience for all concerned. They want to get to know you and your child, to welcome you into the community and to be able to get on with the business of helping pupils to learn as soon as they can. So while different schools in different countries with different systems might all have their own registration, enrolment and induction procedures, each with their own particular idiosyncrasies, there is nevertheless one constant, one thing that any school wants about their new starters, wherever in the world that school is – everyone wants information.

Facts Machine

Give your new school all the information they can handle


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School reports vary markedly around the world, depending on factors such as whether

the school is in the independent or maintained sector, the style of curriculum and assessment, the frequency of the reports and a host of other

things besides“


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WHEN YOU ARRIVE


Therefore, you can really help your new school simply by giving them as much information about your child as you possibly can. You might think that schools are only interested in dry, academic documentation. Of course this is important, but schools are about so much more than this and, as a consequence, they value and appreciate information from as wide a variety of sources as possible. It might seem irrelevant, unimportant or even silly, but you’d be surprised at what schools can make out of seemingly unpromising material.

What do schools want to know?

Academic

School reports vary markedly around the world, depending on factors such as whether the school is in the independent or maintained sector, the style of curriculum and assessment, the frequency of the reports and a host of other things besides. It may be that the school reports you have are familiar to us, or they may

A range of reports over a number of years allows a school to see the ways in which a pupil has developed and gives them some idea as to what might be to come

“

represent a new variation on a theme that we have not encountered before. Don’t worry – whatever the format, a school report will always provide us with useful information and therefore you should provide your new school with all the reports you have, not only the most recent ones. A range of reports over a number of years allows a school to see the ways in which a pupil has developed and gives them some idea as to what might be to come.

Your previous schools may also have provided you with other documentation, and it’s useful for us to see that too. These documents might include: standardised test scores; CAT (cognitive ability test) scores; educational psychologist reports; speech or occupational therapy reports;


reading age scores. These and similar documents will always be useful, as they help us to make sure we are setting the right targets for new pupils and challenging them appropriately right from the beginning.

However, other seemingly less significant material is also of use to us. Small academic prizes might not in themselves demonstrate the direction of a pupil’s future career, but they nevertheless help a new school build up a more complete picture of that pupil as quickly as possible. Therefore, don’t underestimate the value of that Year 3 award for spelling, or that teacher’s commendation for a project, or that prize for memorising times tables – they all help us to understand your child’s overall approach to school, the pride they take in their work and their ability to do well under pressure or under test conditions. Knowing this information can sometimes save us a lot of time in getting to know just where your child’s particular strengths are.

Community involvement

All schools, and international schools in particular, place a good deal of emphasis on helping pupils to understand the importance of engaging with the community, learning about social responsibility and tackling difficult questions about how the wider world works. Therefore, it is extremely helpful to know the level to which pupils have previously been engaged in addressing these and other related issues.

For older students, we value very highly pupils who have taken part in the International Award (called the Duke of Edinburgh Award in the UK), as it means that they are already on the way to having an understanding of the importance of civic responsibility. Likewise, pupils who have previously been involved in Model United Nations will possess a degree of political and social understanding that sets them apart from their peers. Therefore, this is information that your new school will definitely want to know about and will be useful in establishing the right sort of expectations form the outset.

In the case of younger pupils, involvement in organisations such as Boy Scouts or Cubs, Girl Guides or Brownies, army, navy or air force cadets, European Youth Forum, Rotary International, Junior Chamber International, Raleigh International or any similar organisation is also valued highly. If your child has been involved in a group or organisation of this nature, your new school will undoubtedly want to hear about it. It is also useful if your child can speak enthusiastically about their involvement and what they think they learned from the experience.

However, it isn’t always necessary to have a certificate or badge to demonstrate the level of engagement. If your child has been involved in any sort of charity or community project, whether at their previous school or through an outside agency, encourage them to talk about it and describe the sort of work they did and what they felt




the benefits were – this is the sort of conversation that principals love to have with prospective pupils and families, and that will really help your new school welcome you into its community.

Sports

A lot of the school sport in Prague international schools is of an extremely high standard and very competitive, and so principals are always keen to hear about new pupils’ sporting skills and exploits. Therefore, this is an area where it’s useful to provide as much documentation and physical evidence as you can.

If your child has earned medals, certificates, ribbons or badges for any sort of sporting event then it’s always a good idea to bring them along to an interview or meeting. Have they set a school or district record? Been involved in a championship winning team? Won a gold medal? Been selected to represent their county, state or country? Achievements like these are things to be proud of and shared, and you should encourage your child to talk confidently about their favourite sport and

discuss their achievements as maturely as possible.

However, people don’t have to be an expert or a champion, or even especially skilled, to enjoy sport; it doesn’t matter at which level your child has competed or if they have ever been a gold medallist; the very fact that they enjoy and take part in a sport will be important to their new school, and so they should feel comfortable discussing what it is that they like about their sport, and why.

Extracurricular activities

There are as many extracurricular activities to potentially talk about as there are pupils in the world, so no matter what your child’s into, tell us about it! There

If your child has earned medals, certificates, ribbons or badges for any sort of sporting event then it’s always a good idea to bring them along to an interview or meeting “


are formal activities from which you may have supporting, documentary material (it’s helpful to collate this and be prepared to present it during an interview or meeting), or there are smaller-scale activities organised on a much more casual basis. In either case, it’s really helpful if your child feels secure and confident enough to be able to talk about them with us.

They may be a musician who has completed grade examinations (the universal standard for describing competence and confidence on an instrument); they can show us the pieces of music they’re working on now to give us a good understanding of their level so we can match them up with the right teachers and fellow musicians. They may have been in an orchestra or ensemble at their old school, in which case it is really useful if they can talk about the pieces

they played and their composers, as well as describe their role in the group. Or perhaps they were in a band – again, it helps if they’re able to talk about the type of music they play, and discuss their influences and the other sorts of music that they like.

There are so many other fascinating things out there that people are interested in, and likewise so many fascinating things that we are interested in hearing your child talk about. Maybe they can speak other languages. Are into mountain climbing. Have an unusual pet. Have travelled to exotic locations. Have met someone famous. Collect antique coins. Like going to the theatre. Spent some time in hospital. Are part of a large family. Anything! Whatever it is, we think hearing them talk about it will help us to understand the sort of person and pupil they’re going to be.




Therefore, perhaps the most important thing when your child meets people at their new school is that they know how to talk about what interests them. Can they explain when they first became interested in mountain climbing? What is the most valuable coin in their collection? Why do they like to travel? What is the play they have most enjoyed? Their aim should be to share with us their knowledge, understanding and passion for their hobbies and interests, to give us a good idea of what makes them tick.

Next steps

In the end, you really can’t be too prepared when your child is applying to a new school:

• Get as many documents together as you can, even if they seem unimportant or trivial.• Get your child ready to show off their sporting medals and ribbons.• Think about the way your child presents him- or herself, and make sure that they’re

confident talking about and answering questions about their hobbies or interests.

Doing all of this will help the school to get to know your child as quickly as they can, and then everyone – him or her included – can get straight down to the serious business of really enjoying the new school.


HELPINGOTHERSTHRIVE

Education and learning has always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be.


[email protected] www.nordanglia.com/prague

the Englishinternational schoolPrague, Czech Republic

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CONTENTS

Once you have found your new home, settled in and enrolled your kids in a good school, life in Prague

begins. Those elements that comprise the quality of life that you are used to are for the most part available in Prague. In many ways, your quality of life may increase.

In Prague you will have access to a new world of possibilities including sumptuous and affordable cuisine, excellent shopping and fun and interesting activities to enjoy with your loved ones. This section will help guide you through the basics of living and enjoying your life in Prague.The information and advice offered here is only the beginning, however. Beyond the borders of this book, you will find many hidden treasures that will surprise and amaze you while at the same time broadening your understanding of the world.

Enjoy!

INTR

O Health and Wellness p 134

Eating and Drinking p 136

Shopping p 146

NeighbourhoodDescriptions p 152

Conclusion p 170

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HEALTH AND WELLNESS

Health and wellness

Relocating your family to a new country and city is challenging in many ways. The simple things in life can, for some, become much

more difficult. In some cases it may be the language barrier, while in others it may simply be a lack of knowledge of available resources. When it comes to staying healthy there is a danger that your relocation will push a once solid regimen of excercise to the side while you deal with the many aspects of your new life. Taking the time to ensure this doesn’t happen will go a long way to not only ensuring your physical wellbeing but your psychological wellbeing as well.

Prague’s generous number of parks and green spaces are excellent places to go jogging, running, rollerblading, biking or even riding. However, when the weather’s less than desirable or you just feel like staring at a TV screen while you get your run in for the day, you might want to find a gym where you can get your exercise.

Many of the big international chain hotels have gyms and spas that you can use with a membership. Spas are a very popular hobby with the Czech people, especially in the winter, Some gyms also offer exercise classes, including aerobics, spinning, Pilates and yoga, but you can also find these offered by smaller organisations or on an individual or small-group basis by a private instructor.

You’ll come across plenty of Thai massage salons around the city which cater largely to tourists but actually offer decent deals for a normal massage. Yoga instruction is also widely available, ranging from yoga centres to private lessons in your own home.

Yoga class

When it comes to staying healthy

there is a danger that your relocation

will push a once solid regimen of

exercise to the side while you deal with the many aspects of

your new life.

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Fitness VinohradskaVinohradska 38

Fitness centre on a modest scale offering whirlpool, solarium and an interesting variety of fitness and dance classes, including zumba, European taebo, Thai boxing and street dancing.

Fitness Center ChodovV Parku 8

State of the art fitness equipment, strength and cardio training classes, professional trainers onsite, conveniently located in Prague 4’s Chodov Park business complex.

Four Seasons Hotel Fitness CenterVeleslavinova 2a

Free for hotel guests, this 24-hour, 150 sqm facility offers sauna, massage services and modern exercise equipment.

Studio pro zenyVodickova 20, 5. patro

Specialises in fitness for pregnant women and new mothers, and even offers baby exercise classes.

Wellness Yoga StudioPlavecka 12

Variety of yoga styles for children and adults of all ages, and featuring instructors from India and US who conduct seminars and workshops.

Treating yourself to a day at the spa is a great way to relieve the tension accumulated during the relocation process.

Tension-relieving massage

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Eating and drinking

Eating out in Prague can be a great time, but you have to choose carefully and not expect the same standards, diversity or flexibility in

menu options as you might be used to in your home country. But to be fair, Prague is doing well in catching up with its Western European neighbours, and definitely has its own unique touch in creating an interesting fusion dining experience.

One thing to be aware of is that most restaurants, cafes and bars still allow smoking inside. The Czech Republic still has not implemented a smoking ban like most of its EU neighbours. A recently introduced law in Prague requires dining establishments and bars to decide upon a clearly defined label of smoking, non-smoking or non-smoking area available. If you definitely don’t want to be around smoke, we recommend you stick to places clearly marked as non-smoking. If you request the non-smoking section of a place that allows smoking, you might find yourself in a tiny, unattractive room at the back of the restaurant, or simply be seated at a table that happens to not have an ashtray on it.

Local cuisine

It’s been said before: if you want to eat like the locals, follow the construction workers when they go on lunch break. It’s completely true,

just try it some day and you’ll end up in a smoky little neighbourhood pub where none of the dishes (you likely won’t find veggie food here) are over CZK80 and the beer is ridiculously cheap. So it’s not a bad deal: even if you

Al fresco at U Fleku Restaurant (1499), the oldest

in Prague

One thing to be aware of is that

most restaurants, cafes and bars still

allow smoking inside.

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decide you’re not that into Czech food, at least you didn’t spend much on your experiment, and you’ve ventured further into true Czech culture than many expats ever do.

Dark and smoky local pubs aside, kick off your intro to Czech cuisine at these two delectable eateries:

U FlekuKremencova 9

Reportedly the oldest beer hall and restaurant in Prague, U Fleku is, understandably, a tourist favourite; but it’s also a place where you’ll find plenty of locals. Centrally located and cosy, it’s a perfect place for dinner before the opera or ballet at the nearby Narodni Divadlo (the accordion players will provide some stark contrast). But once you’re seated, be sure

1 2 3

4 5 6

8 9

Some local dishes to try:1. Roasted pork knee (pecene

veprove koleno)2. Beef / wild boar goulash

(gulas) with potato dumplings (bramborove knedliky)

3. Potato soup (bramborova polevka)

4. Fried cheese (smazeny syr) 5. Grilled / pickled cheese

(grilovany / nakladany syr) 6. Beef in carrot-cream sauce

(svickova) 7. Filled crepes (palacinky) 8. Honey cake (medovnik)9. Apple strudel (jablecny zavin)

Traditional Czech fare may not be healthy in the modern Western sense of the word, given the high fat content, but it’s highly nutritious and very, very filling!

7

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you order fast (try the baked rabbit or duck with creamed spinach or the goulash) before your choice gets wiped right off the chalkboard menu.

Klasterni senkBrevnovsky klaster (Brevnov monastery), Marketska 1

Tasty monk-made beer brewed on location to accompany incredibly fresh and delicious Czech cuisine, all served up in a cosy wood and stone banquet area with fireplace. Website is in Czech, German and Latin, so you can brush up on your grammar school skills. The beautiful monastery grounds are the perfect place for an after-dinner stroll.

International cuisine

Fortunately, Prague’s restaurant scene is finally starting to grow in terms of diversity. For a landlocked country, sushi restaurants are quite

abundant – albeit a bit pricey for a small offering. Still, places like Mashana (on the higher end of the scale) or Sushi Tam Da (quite cheap but good) will satisfy your seaweed and wasabi craving. Or you can simply head to the international aisle at a big Tesco supermarket to find the ingredients and supplies for an inexpensive, homemade sushi party.

Little fast-food Chinese places are even more abundant, but specialise in very cheap and very greasy meals. Don’t expect the same quality as in your home country, and don’t expect delivery either. Indian, Pakistani and Middle Eastern restaurants are rather popular and growing slowly in number. Mexican restaurants are few and usually offer nothing similar to what you’re used to, especially when it comes to spiciness level, but Las Adelitas in Vinonhrady, recently established by two Mexican expats, probably serves the closest thing to the real deal.

As Czechs are generally not used to any level of spice (as in chili peppers) in their food, nor much inclined toward it, even foods that are marked as spicy in an Indian or Chinese restaurant are usually mild. If you really want to heat things up, make sure to convince your waiter that you can indeed handle the spice.

A couple of Prague’s exotic gems to satisfy the international palate:

NOIUjezd 19

One of the only Thai restaurants that comes pretty close to what you might be used to back home, with the added bonus of chic decor and a soothing ambiance.

KaravanserajMasarykovo nabrezi 22

Feast upon an incredible variety of Middle Eastern / Asian cuisine and a delectable selection of beverages from Indonesia, Thailand, Iraq, Jordan,

As Czechs are generally not used

to any level of spice (as in chili peppers) in their food, nor much

inclined toward it, even foods that are

marked as spicy in an Indian or

Chinese restaurant are usually mild.

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Lebanon, Pakistan and India. Arabic-style lounge area features cushions on the floor and belly dancing on weekends.

Recommended cafesCafe CalmaKyjevska 2

Kid-friendly, excellent menu with daily specials and homemade lemonades and tea concoctions. Pastries and cakes to die for.

Cafe OrangePuskinovo namesti 13

Lovely spot off one of Dejvicka’s nicer plazas with a playground for the kids, serving up freshly squeezed orange juice, authentic New York cheesecake (hard to find in Prague) and some excellent risotto.

Vypalene koTatkoMarakova 5

Translated as the ‘fired kitten’, this is a unique, hands-on cafe for the whole family where you can hang out, sip on tea or fair trade coffee (from www.mamacoffee.cz) and paint your own pottery. Turn your creative masterpiece in for glazing when you’re done, and it’s ready to pick up a week later.

Grand Cafe OrientOvocny trh 9, inside Cubist Museum

Round off your edgy tour of the Czech Cubist museum with the incredible cakes and coffees in a truly cubist-inspired setting.

Grand Cafe Orient in Prague

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Dobra TrafikaUjezd 37

Cosy and compact, this popular spot (with a garden out back) offers pita bread snacks, homemade pastries, lots of board games and an enormous choice of coffee beans from all over the world. The mini shop in front sells locally handmade cards and gifts.

Cafe halfway up Petrin HillTake the funicular and get off halfway up to the top. The views at this level are just as grand when you’re sitting outdoors and sipping on a white wine, beer or cappuccino.

Vegetarian cuisine

Traditional Czech cuisine tends to view vegetables (read: tomato or cucumber slices with red cabbage shreds) more or less as dekorace

(decoration) on the side of your half-kilo of bacon-wrapped pork loin. Mushrooms are of course appreciated during mushroom season, but don’t be surprised to come across menus that boast fried cheese or ham and potatoes under the vegetarian section. Luckily, cafes like Cafe Calma or Boulevard Bageterie offer excellent salads and veggie sandwiches, but there are also some herbivore-friendly restaurants around town.

Lehka HlavaBorsov 2

Translated as ‘Clear Head’, this cosy veggie-friendly spot is highly popular with expats and Czechs alike.

Beas DhabaBelehradska 90 / Sokolovska 93 / Tynska 19

Everyone knows that Beas is the hotspot for veggie Indian cuisine where you can gorge on a colorful thali plate or super huge dosas, or just enjoy a perfect cup of masala chai with a samosa. Some locations charge according to food weight, so don’t let your eyes get bigger than your stomach.

Country LifeMelantrichova 15

More than just a place to grab a veggie lunch, you can stock up on organic and vegan goodies for the healthy part of your pantry.

Delivery

Delivery services, when at all offered by individual restaurants, are expensive and limited. But there are several reliable city-wide

delivery services which allow you to place an order from a diverse range of popular restaurants all over Prague. Eurobest (www.rozvozjidel.cz) offers delivery from 15 restaurants, while Food Taxi (www.foodtaxi.cz) offers 28.

Traditional Czech cuisine tends to view vegetables

(read: tomato or cucumber slices

with red cabbage shreds) more or

less as dekorace (decoration) on the side of your

half-kilo of bacon-wrapped pork loin.

There are several reliable city-wide delivery services

which allow you to place an order from

a diverse range of popular restaurants

all over Prague.

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Lehka Hlava restaurant in Prague

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Drinking

It can’t be helped that beer (pivo) is the first thing you think of when drinking in Prague. One of the first things you’ll learn is that beer here is

basically cheaper than water, ranging from about CZK21 to CZK32 for 0.5 litres; if you pay more, you may as well be a tourist.

The Czech Republic, where pilsner beer was born in the town of Plzen, proudly claims to have the best beer in the world, and once you give it a try, you won’t have much of a choice but to agree. Not only can you indulge in the popular names like Gambrinus, Pilsner Urquell, Budvar or the Prague-brewed Staropramen, you can try the dark and moody Kozel or check out various restaurants with microbreweries. Be sure to seek out Svijany for its incredible pear-like flavour, or the various styles of Primator (to be had with a slice of lemon) found at cafe Dobra Trafika and a few other places. If you prefer, you can enjoy that special Czech beer flavour sans alcohol with a nealko pivo, a non-alcoholic beer.

But yes, there is more to drinking in Prague than beer, including the herbal-flavoured Becherovka (“It tastes like Christmas!” say the expats), svarak (hot mulled wine found at all Christmas markets) and burcak (strong wine made from the first grape harvest in September).

Absinthe, notoriously known as the green fairy, may not be for everyone, but if you really want to tell your friends that you’ve tried Czech absinthe, head over to Cafe Slavia (right across from Narodni Divadlo), where you can get a mug of hot chocolate with a splash of absinthe. Speaking of hot chocolate, the pudding-like fondante chocolate (many nicer cafes have this) is a definite crowd pleaser, but you’ll need a spoon to ‘drink’ it.

The Czech Republic, where pilsner beer was born in the town

of Plzen, proudly claims to have the

best beer in the world, and once you give it a try,

you won’t have much of a choice

but to agree.

Cafe Slavia in Prague

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Czech wine is decent, but you’ll have to spend some money to get quality wines. Frankovka is the most popular Czech red, and Müller-Thurgau and Veltlinske zelene are two of the more common whites you’ll find. Moravia is the country’s main grape-growing region, with 95 percent of the nation’s vineyards. You’ll find that when most Czech women order a glass of wine (they don’t often have beer), they’ll also order a small bottle of perliva voda, sparkling water, and make a spritzer, whether the wine is red or white.

You can find nice quality wines for cheap at your local vinoteka, where the owner will gladly fill up your plastic bottle for CZK70-100 a litre. Aside from Czech wines, you’ll find Italian, Spanish, South American and French on offer. Ask for a sample before you buy if you’re not sure.

And what about non-alcoholic drinks? For teetotalers and others who aren’t afraid of mineral water, why not try some from the hot springs of nearby spa town Karlovy Vary (worth a day trip in itself)? The popular Mattoni brand of mineral water is classified as neperliva (still water), jemne perliva (mildly bubbly) or perliva (typical carbonation level of sparkling water) and also comes in a variety of flavours. If you’re at a restaurant, you can simply ask for a Mattoni if you want mineral water.

How about some commie cola? It’s called Kofola and tastes a bit like a coffee-flavoured cola, a drinkable relic of the communist era. Czechs love it, but the flavour is something to get used to.

Coffee houses (kavarnas) and cafes are found all over Prague, a cafe-culture city to be sure. Order a Videnska kava (Viennese coffee) for a special treat. Most restaurants and cafes have some kind of bottled juice (Cappy is a popular brand), and nicer places offer freshly squeezed juices. Black or herbal tea is served, but if you want milk you’ll have to ask for it.

Brewery in Plzen, where pilsner beer was born

Czech wine is decent, but you’ll have to spend some money to get quality wines.

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Food shopping

One of the highlights of Prague’s food scene is the abundance of fruit and veggie markets. As these are almost all Vietnamese-owned, you

can delight in finding exciting Asian products and produce, like fresh tamarind pods, pickled bamboo, soba noodles, coconut milk and sriracha sauce. Add to this the well-stocked butcher shops, the growing popularity of organic food shops (organic items are known as ‘bio’) and the farmer’s markets held on a regular basis around the city, and you’ve got a complete range of very fresh ingredients for all your cooking needs. You’ll also discover that Prague has an increasing number of well-stocked gourmet shops and ethnic food stores, including Indian, Greek, Lebanese, Russian, Japanese and Thai. The Dejvice-Bubenec area in Prague 6 has at least one of each of these stores, plus a butcher shop / grocery store where you’ll find British products (Roberton’s, Jugoslavskych partyzanu 38).

Some people prefer an all-in-one supermarket experience to sort out the entire grocery and household items shopping list for the week. However, if you don’t mind trotting about from butcher to baker to fresh produce maker, you’re bound to go home with the freshest, healthiest and highest quality groceries. Scout out your neighbourhood’s bakeries, butcher shops and veggie markets and find out which are good for what.

The main grocery stores in Prague are Tesco, Albert and Billa. Tesco is probably the cheapest, followed by Albert. Billa tends to have a higher quality selection and better variety of items. It’s advisable to get your fruits and veggies at the Vietnamese markets, where they tend to be fresher and better quality. Tesco also has a few mini shops, called Tesco Express, that offer a reduced variety of items, sometimes at higher prices, but are conveniently located around the city for those last-minute grocery runs. Another option for finding some decently priced groceries – and tasty sweets – is the German discount supermarket Lidl, Narozni 11 (Prague 5) and Vrsovicka 1a-d (Prague 10).

Prague has an increasing number

of well-stocked gourmet shops and ethnic food stores, including Indian, Greek, Lebanese,

Russian, Japanese and Thai.

Vegetable market in Prague

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Hypernova is a gigantic supermarket chain that can cause hyperventilation upon entering their chaotic warehouse spaces, but there’s no doubt that you’ll find everything you need here, including kitchen supplies. These markets can usually be found in the basement level of the larger malls, like Centrum Chodov (Chodov Metro) or Galerie Butovice (Nove Butovice Metro), where the kids won’t be able to take their eyes off the two enormous sea aquariums within.

Cheese shops

When you get tired of looking at all the Edam in the usual supermarkets, try the locally-owned chain of Cheesy shops, where

you’re invited to a generous sample before you buy any goat, sheep or cow milk cheeses from Holland, Italy and Switzerland. There are seven locations around town, including Letenske Namesti 6 (Prague 7) and Stefanikova 25 (Prague 5).

Farmer’s markets

The season for the highly popular farmer’s markets begins mid-March, early April. All markets are open every Saturday, but some are open for

a couple of other days during the week as well. Detailed info (in Czech) and enticing photos can be found at www.farmarsketrziste.cz. Aside from finding incredibly fresh and high quality produce, honeys and cheeses, you can also pre-order surprise veggie boxes to be picked up at the market.

• Kuban (Kubanske namesti, Prague 10 (Vrsovice))• Jirak (Namesti Jiriho z Podebrad, Prague 3)• Naplavka (Palackeho namesti, Prague 2)

For all your organic, raw or vegan food needs, try one of these shops:

• Bio Market Vitek (Vinohradska 53)• Potraviny Pro Zdravi (Kamenicka 21)• Country Life (Melantrichova 15)

You can pre-order surprise veggie boxes to be picked up at the market.

Farmer’s market in Prague

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Shopping

Unfortunately, due to import taxes, buying electronics and clothing in the Czech Republic is probably much more expensive than

where you come from. So it’s best to bring at least your smaller and more portable electronics with you when you move to Prague. As for the rest, try to first search for those items (or post an ad) in the classifieds on www.expats.cz or www.prague.tv, or you can even make a day or weekend shopping trip to Germany, where prices for both clothing and electronics are more reasonable. That said, most items that you require and desire can still be found in any of Prague’s malls and boutiques.

Malls

Most malls in Prague tend to carry the same chain stores, so after a while you might get bored. The newly constructed Palladium Mall

at Namesti Republiky (a must-see simply for its internal structure) is a slight exception, with higher-end names and more unusual boutiques.

Other malls around town:• Palac Flora (Flora Metro)• Slovansky dum (Na Prikope ulice)• Centrum Novy Smichov (Andel Metro)• Centrum Chodov (Chodov Metro)• Galerie Butovice (Nove Butovice Metro)• Metropole Zlicin (Zlicin Metro)• Centrum Cerny Most (Cerny Most Metro)

Due to import taxes, buying

electronics and clothing in the

Czech Republic is probably much

more expensive than where you

come from.

Below - The Palladium Mall

outsidePage 148-9 - The Palladium Mall

inside

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Clothing

Most of the high-end designer fashion labels that have made their way to Prague coexist happily on the appropriately named Parizska

Street jutting out from Old Town Square. When you’re ready for a break from all the hard work, have a celebrity coffee at the Nespresso cafe or nibble on foie gras terrine at Pravda Brasserie.

For a more basic and down-to-earth experience in freshening up your wardrobe, you’ll find a decent and affordable selection at chain stores such as H&M, C&A, Marks & Spencers, Zara and Mango, all of which can be found in the malls. Also, take a walk down the shopping street of Na Prikope, right off Wenceslas Square, where you’ll find plenty of other brand-name shops and even a fancy little mall, Slovansky dum (which houses a cinema that plays many of the latest English-language films).

Second-hand shops

Prague has quite a nice range of second-hand and vintage shops, for those who not only want to save on clothes shopping but also prefer

to avoid the typical retail chain look. Many of them have generous baby and children’s sections.

English-language bookstores

The Globe Bookstore (Pstrossova 6) is extremely popular with expats and is probably Prague’s largest English-language bookstore, complete

with a cafe serving American and European cuisine and frequent live music, poetry readings and film and sports nights. Shakespeare and Son (Mala Strana on U Luzickeho seminare 10) is a cosy little space that still manages to offer quite a good range of new and used books, as well as a living room area for enjoying your books. Also try looking for an English book section in any antikvariat you come across. The one at Valentinska 8, near the Staromestska Metro, is a good one to try. Two other English bookstores are Anagram Bookstore and Big Ben Bookshop, both near Old Town Square. You can also make use of the classified section on www.expats.cz or www.prague.tv to post your own ad requesting English books, find out if anyone is selling them or offer a book exchange.

Stationery

When you’re looking for special materials for your child’s school project or specific items to supply your office, you’ll need to get to

a papirnictvi, a stationery supply store. These places are fun to check out, so bring the kids along, although most of the items will be behind the counter, and you’ll have to point to what you want or bring a dictionary

Most of the high-end designer fashion labels have made their way to Prague.

The Globe Bookstore is extremely popular with expats and is probably Prague’s largest English-language bookstore.

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and try to describe what it is you need. Papirnictvis are scattered all over the city, but good places to start are Valentinska 3 (Prague 1) or Eliasova 1 (Prague 6). Of course, if you’re only looking for some printer paper, notebooks or envelopes, you can always go to a large supermarket like Tesco.

Electronics

If you’re looking for reliable places to purchase electronics, especially computers, definitely check out the retail shops of www.alza.cz and www.

mironet.cz, the Czech Republic’s largest online electronic retailers.

You can also try the Datart chain stores, where you’ll find quite a range of products, from cameras and printer ink cartridges to washing machines and irons. Datart has several locations, including Narodni trida 28 in Prague 1 and inside the Novy Smichov Centrum (Andel Metro). If you’ve waited until you got to Prague to get an iPod, you might be better off having someone back home post you one. But if that’s not an option, check out the Apple store across the street from the Andel tram stop. Expect steep prices and small selection.

Tourist / souvenir shops

To indulge yourself in a touristy and souvenir shopping spree, look to the little cobblestone lanes fanning out from Old Town Square. Here

you’ll find every possible symbol, emblem, mascot and representation of Prague (like Czech garnet, local futbol team pennants, marionettes, Bohemian crystal, Kafka and Mucha posters) for touristy prices. You can wander around the souvenir shops on either end of Charles Bridge (check out the unique artisans on the bridge as well), but you’re more likely to overpay unless you’ve done some comparison shopping. Don’t be afraid to try bargaining, as most places jack up the prices to ridiculous amounts. Botanicus (Tyn 3, Tynsky dvur) and Manufaktura (Melantrichova 17) are two fascinating Czech shops found in Old Town where you can pick up handmade, regionally produced and organic items, including cosmetics (beer shampoo and soap!), candles, wooden toys and kitchen utensils, honeys and jams and much more.

Antiques

Scouring through an antikvariat is an adventure in itself and takes time, so make sure you have some before venturing into one of these dusty,

nostalgic shops. You never know what treasures you’ll find here, from furniture to jewellery to obscure kitchen gadgets to communist relics. Many antikvariats also sell used and rare books in Czech, English, German and French. But beware of the antikvariat shops in the centre (like those

If you’ve waited until you got to

Prague to get an iPod, you might be

better off having someone at home

post you one.

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near Tynska Namesti) that are incredibly overpriced for the naive tourists. If possible, do your antikvariat scavenging away from Old Town Square. For starters, try Vetesnictvi at Vitezna 12, just a few steps from the Ujezd tram stop at the bottom of Petrin Hill.

Kids

Sparkys is quite the playland for children, offering up all the popular Czech and international toys, games and crafts for children of all ages.

You’ll find a Sparkys store in most malls, and one in Old Town at Havirska 2. Pompo is another place to find toys as well as baby supplies, and is right next to Sparkys in Centrum Novy Smichov (Prague 5). For traditional wooden toys, make sure to stop by the charming Pohadka (Czech for ‘fairytale’) shops at Celetna 32 or Zlata ulicka, c. p.16, both in Prague 1.

Sports

Outdoor activities, no matter the time of year, are a pretty big deal for many of Prague’s citizens, who are ready to rush out of the city or

even the country each weekend for hiking, cycling and skiing trips. Don’t be left behind – load up on your sporting gear at one of these sporting goods chain stores: Happy Sport, Moira, Rock Point or Hudy Sport. All have online shops as well as various locations around the city, in little street-side shops or inside the big malls. For all your diving needs, try Divers Direct, Cs. Armady 13 (Prague 6).

Sparkys is quite the playland for children, offering up all the popular Czech and international toys, games and crafts for children of all ages.

Old Town Square in Prague

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NEIGHBOURHOOD DESCRIPTIONS

Neighbourhoods

Choosing the right neighbourhood to live in will most likely be the most important decision you make upon moving to Prague, as it will

affect all aspects of your life. Unfortunately it will also be the most difficult choice, as there are so many positives and negatives behind each area that differ for each type of person or family. While advice from others may be helpful, be sure to take into account that person’s lifestyle and personality when considering whether to take that advice. They may thrive on solitude while you may like being closer to the action, or vice versa. What follows is an objective description of the different neighbourhoods of Prague which we hope helps you with your decision.

Prague 1

Prague 1 is, for many short-term visitors, Prague itself. Some tourists who drop by for a day or two never see anything more than this spire-filled

collection of beautiful monuments and architectural treasures. Which isn’t a bad thing, but there’s certainly more to Prague than this. Inarguably the most touristy area of Prague, this central district is full to the brim with important UNESCO sites, famous bridges, groovy new bars and traditional as well as experimental fusion restaurants. Charles University (Central Europe’s oldest university, founded in 1348) has several of its main branches in Stare Mesto, and the famous film academy, FAMU, can be found right before the magnificent Narodni Divadlo (National Theatre), both perched just across the tram tracks from the Vltava River.

Choosing the right neighbourhood will

be the most difficult choice you make when moving to

Prague.

Christmas market in Old Town

Square

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Stare Mesto

Literally meaning Old Town, Stare Mesto’s main square, Staromestske namesti, serves as a platform for endless seasonal markets, festivals and

concerts, aimed of course at the numerous tourists.

HousingStare Mesto’s buildings boast a fascinating mix of Art Nouveau, neo-classical and Renaissance styles. But more than anything, you’ll be paying for the incredible views if you rent a flat in this popular, historical area. For a modern, one-bedroom apartment expect to see rents start at around CZK20,000, touching CZK60,000 for a spacious two-bedroom place.

Health careGeneral Health Care Corporation, Krakovska 8

NegativesThe constant crowds, traffic, noise and lengthy commute to the international schools make this area less than ideal for families.

PositivesLiving here, you’ll feel in the centre of everything – because you are. You can get to all the famous landmarks and museums, charming cafes and restaurants and the riverfront on foot. But there’s also the Staromestska tram, bus and Metro stop right beside the Charles University Arts and Philosophy faculty, and a 5-minute walk across the nearby bridge will get you to the Malostranska Metro and tram stop.

Stare Mesto’s buildings boast a fascinating mix of Art Nouveau, neo-classical and Renaissance styles. But more than anything, you’ll be paying for the incredible views if you rent a flat in this popular, historical area.

Street near Old Town Square in the morning

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Nove Mesto

The commercial and business centre of Prague, Nove Mesto’s centrepiece is none other than the famous Vaclavske namesti, a major

site during the Velvet Revolution and other political protests during the mid-twentieth century. Today it’s swarmed by tourists shopping, eating at overpriced cafes and strolling up and down.

HousingJust as with Stare Mesto, rents aren’t going to be cheap, but they can be a bit cheaper, depending on which part of Vaclavske namesti you find yourself on.

Health careHealth Centre Prague, Vodickova 28; Polyclinic na Narodni, Narodni 9

NegativesThis area has a constant presence of tourists, as well as a good number of shady vendors and pickpockets scattered about. The square and the intersecting streets can get rather grimy.

PositivesOnly minutes away on foot from Stare Mesto, the positive aspects of living in this district are similar though the area is more commercial. Being in the centre of it all can be exhilarating for some.

The commercial and business centre

of Prague, Nove Mesto’s centrepiece

is none other than the famous

Vaclavske namesti, a major site

during the Velvet Revolution.

Wenceslas Square in Nove Mestro

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Mala Strana

This posh historical area, translated as Lesser Quarter or Smaller Town, is a tourist favourite, full of cozy cobblestone lanes lined with unique

shops and fancy restaurants. Located across Charles Bridge from Stare Mesto, Mala Strana’s winding back roads lead uphill to Prague’s treasure, Prague Castle.

HousingThe gorgeous neo-Renaissance apartment buildings among the Baroque buildings on Mala Strana are sure to tempt, but come with a hefty price tag. Rent for a one-bedroom in this beautiful area starts at around CZK21,000.

Health careGeneral Hospital, U Nemocnice 2

NegativesNot only are rents high in Mala Strana, but the area’s tourist-filled cafes, restaurants and bars also set their prices higher here than in less central parts of the city. Tram noise can be a bit bothersome, and there are bound to be constant crowds of tourists.

PositivesIf you live in Mala Strana, your view is nothing less than magnificent. The lovely and romantic Kampa Park, adjacent to the river and the area known

If you live in Mala Strana, your view is nothing less than magnificent.

Mala Strana in the shadow of Prague Castle

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as the Venice of Prague, is a quiet place for a leisurely afternoon stroll, but also plays host to various festivals, concerts and photography exhibitions year-round. Prague Castle is in your backyard, as are a host of little gardens and parks, including one particularly beautiful and secluded park that’s home to several peacocks.

Prague 2

Prague 2 is the smallest administrative district in the city at 4.19 sq km, and includes a number of high-end housing possibilities in the form of

late 19th- and early 20th-century apartment buildings.

Vysehrad

Yet another incredible lookout point in this city of seven hills is Vysehrad, known to be the other fortress, after Prague Castle,

that formed the earliest boundaries of Prague. Literally meaning ‘high castle’, Vysehrad offers its residents stunning views and is also home to the famous Vysehrad Cemetery, where the likes of Smetana, Dvorak and Mucha are buried.

HousingRent in this elevated location with a river view is usually very high. A large one-bedroom apartment averages around CZK30,000.

Vysehrad offers its residents stunning

views.

Vysehrad

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Health careFirst Medical Clinic of Prague, Vysehradska 35

NegativesThe area, like other spots near the centre, is far from the international schools and has rather high rents.

PositivesLocated along the river, this neighbourhood offers historical sites and lush greenery up away from the noise and chaos of the city streets.

Vinohrady

Vinohrady literally means ‘vineyards’, so named because it contains one of the city’s two remaining ones. A highly sought-after neighbourhood

in Prague 2, it’s full of gorgeous and astounding monuments and buildings of various architectural styles, but doesn’t attract the same tourist mobs as Prague 1 despite being just above Vaclavske namesti. The main square, Namesti Miru (with a Metro and tram stop of the same name), can be a peaceful and mesmerising place to sit, with its grandiose gothic cathedral towering over the trees.

Vinohrady literally means ‘vineyards’, so named because it contains one of the city’s two remaining ones.

Residential area of Vinohrady

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HousingThe buildings here are old and beautiful, with classical and neo-gothic exteriors, and mostly renovated and spacious interiors. A one-bedroom apartment can be had from about CZK15,000, while a two-bedroom apartment (about 100 sqm), averages around CZK30,000, but you’ll definitely come across more expensive places without trying too hard.

Health carePoliklinika Vinohrady, Vinohradska 176

NegativesVinohrady is one of the most expensive areas to live, especially if you’re looking for a family-size apartment.

PositivesLocated centrally with excellent transport connections: Hlavni nadrazi, the main train station, is here, as are both red and green line Metro stops, each with a bustling tram stop. This clean, leafy neighbourhood has it all, from the huge Riegrovy Sady Park (perfect for a morning jog) to charming cafes to trendy restaurants (lots of good quality international cuisine) and bars. Expats often gravitate toward this area first when moving to Prague, so you’ll find many other working professionals from abroad living here.

Prague 3

As is the case with many districts in Prague, Prague 3 is quite socioeconomically diverse, with expensive apartments and shops in

one area and seedy cheap bars in another.

Zizkov

While parts of Zizkov border the trendy and happening Vinohrady / Stare Mesto side, this neighbourhood also contains a fair amount

of communist-era housing, known as panelaks. Here you’ll find the famous Zizkov TV tower, which can be seen from almost any point in the city and features Czech artist David Cerny’s creepy, over-sized baby figures crawling up and down it. The tower, the city’s tallest building, has a restaurant at the top with a wonderful panoramic view of Prague.

HousingIn the last couple of years this working-class neighbourhood has been drawing attention from developers, so apartments in this area are becoming more desirable – which means prices are slowly moving up and the English-teaching expat group that usually inhabits parts of Zizkov is moving out. Expect a two-bedroom apartment to start at CZK17,000.

Health careLong-established International Medical Services clinic, Konevova 31

While parts of Zizkov border the trendy and

happening Vinohrady / Stare

Mesto side, this neighbourhood also contains a fair amount of communist-era

housing, known as panelaks.

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NegativesNot the safest area due to petty crime and car theft. Sidewalks aren’t very clean and plenty of pubs also means plenty of late-night noise.

PositivesThere’s a good variety of ethnic restaurants and grocery stores here, as well as the highest density of pubs in the city and several good live music and concert venues.

Prague 4

In Prague 4, you’ll find many of the big international schools, including The British International School, the International Montessori School

and the English International School.

Pruhonice

Pruhonice has been called a mix of European village life and American suburbia. Many expats favour this little historical village, about a

20-minute drive from Prague, for its proximity to international schools and its peaceful and natural surroundings.

Many expats favour Pruhonice, about a 20-minute drive from Prague, which has been called a mix of European village life and American suburbia.

Below - Zizkov Tower and DistrictNext Page - Pruhonice Castle

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HousingHere you can rent a spacious family home (many new housing projects aimed at expat families are coming up), a villa or an apartment, but prices vary widely depending on the realty company you find. A three-bedroom house starts at around CZK40,000.

Health careUnicare Medical Centre, Kosatcova 420

NegativesPublic transport to and from Prague is limited to bus (from Opatov Metro station), so you’ll definitely need a car if you plan to reside here.

Positives Pruhonice Park is a UNESCO-protected space of 250 hectares with a rich variety of plants and trees, and ponds with ducks and fish. Pruhonice also offers a huge shopping centre, if you want to avoid a trip into Prague.

Nusle

A traditional Czech neighbourhood a bit south of the city centre, Nusle is neither fancy nor touristy, and seems to have its own pace of life,

though it’s still very well connected by public transport.

HousingApartments in this area are much cheaper to come by, and a large two-bedroom apartment can be rented for just CZK15,000. Luxury apartments in this area average around CZK30,000.

Health careThomayerova Hospital, Videnska 800; Modranska pharmacy (nonstop), Soukalova 3355

NegativesBuildings here are drab compared to the more aesthetically pleasing buildings in the more central parts of the city. It’s also a little less safe than other areas, and depending on where you are you may be able to hear the trains and the Metro roaring through Nusle Bridge.

PositivesNusle offers cheaper rent than many other areas of Prague, and you’ll likely never see tourists wandering around here. You can discover mini beer gardens and delicious, unreviewed restaurants hidden all over this area.

Nusle offers cheaper rent

than many other areas of Prague, and you’ll likely

never see tourists wandering around

here.

UNESCO-protected

Pruhonice Park

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Prague 5

Located on the west side of the Vltava River, Prague 5 is one of the largest districts. It was the first district to offer its residents wireless Internet

for free, and is highly accessible by various means of transport.

Smichov

Smichov is a quickly growing office and retail area, with happening nightlife and trendy restaurants. The walkway right outside the Andel

Metro and tram stop hosts festivals and seasonal markets throughout the year.

HousingWhile some of the apartment buildings in this area are colourful and elegant, others aren’t in such great condition. Many are currently being renovated; the ones that have been will cost you. Rent for a one-bedroom starts around CZK18,000.

Health careNemocnice na Homolce, Roentgenova 2; Prague Women’s Health Centre, Kartouszka 6

NegativesSmichov can get extremely crowded and noisy with random wailing sirens, especially during rush hour.

PositivesEasy access to the centre with a bustling tram stop and the Andel Metro stop (yellow / C line). Lots of nightlife and fast food, and a huge mall (Novy Smichov) featuring a cinema, an appealing food court and an enormous Tesco supermarket and department store.

Smichov can get extremely crowded

and noisy with random wailing

sirens, especially during rush hour.

Smichov District at night

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Hrebenka

Tucked away from the busy commuter traffic of Prague 5 is the residential area of Hrebenka, translated as ‘ridge of hill’. Its hillside

location allows for lush green panoramic views, so it’s no wonder this area gets called Garden City.

HousingHere you’ll find beautiful villas, family houses and spacious apartments with large gardens and excellent views. A family house can be had from about CZK45,000 and up.

Health careNa Homolce Hospital, Roentgenova 2

NegativesHousing prices can get a bit expensive.

PositivesQuite a large community of expat families has taken up residence in this area. A short walk will lead you to the Kinsky Gardens.

PRAGUE 6

Located in the north-west of Prague, Prague 6 is home to the international airport as well as several cultural institutions. It’s Prague’s

largest district at 41.5 sq km and 100,000 inhabitants.

Bubenec

One of the cosiest and calmest areas is Bubenec, between Dejvice and Hradcany, and surrounded by the city’s two largest parks, Letna and

Stromovka. The area is within walking distance of Prague Castle and the

In Hrebenka you’ll find beautiful villas, family houses and spacious apartments with large gardens and excellent views.

Stromovka Park

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last two stops on the green / A line Metro, which will take you to the centre in just 10 minutes. It holds what’s known as Embassy Village, where most of Prague’s international embassies and ambassador residences are found. The streets of Embassy Village make for a lovely afternoon stroll and can be a fun way to show your children the flags of the world.

HousingWhile you might find a one-bedroom for about CZK12,000, a larger two- or three-bedroom apartment in a villa averages around CZK30,000.

Health careCanadian Medical Centre, Veleslavinska 1

Negatives Not much nightlife, except for herna bars, also known as nonstops, which feature casino machines and stay open all day and night.

PositivesEverything you need is within walking distance or a tram ride away: major grocery stores, butcher shops, bakeries, excellent vegetable markets and an array of international grocery stores and restaurants. Close to everything.

Dejvice

Dejvice, north of Prague Castle, is probably the most well-known neighbourhood in Prague 6, and a lively spot, but not nearly as noisy

or as crowded as the centre.

HousingMix of villas, family houses and spacious apartments. Rental of a family-sized four- or five-room apartment starts around CZK30,000. A cosy one- or two-bedroom apartment can be had from about CZK14,000.

Health care The area is full of pharmacies (lekarnas) and large medical clinics, including Young + Co. (Vitezne nam. 10), the established Canadian Medical Centre (Veleslavinska 1) and Unicare Medical Centre (Na Dlouhem Lanu 11).

Negatives Not much nightlife. The area near the Dejvice Metro / tram / bus stop and roundabout, called Vitezne namesti, can be rather hectic and noisy, especially during rush hour.

PositivesVery easy and quick access to the centre by Metro, tram or bus, and also quite close to international schools. Many unique boutiques and plenty of charming cafes, pubs and restaurants, with new places opening quite often.

Dejvice, north of Prague Castle, is probably the

most well-known neighbourhood in

Prague 6.

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Brevnov

Not much more than a 10-minute tram ride from the Bubenec neighbourhood, this attractive suburban community is a calm and

quiet place near the end of the tram line, bordering the spacious grounds of Hvezda park.

HousingA modern, family-sized three-bedroom apartment goes for about CZK33,000.

Health careMilitary Hospital, U Vojenske nemocnice 1200

NegativesFar from the centre and not a very happening area in terms of restaurants, cafes or bars.

PositivesMany expat families decide to live here due to the proximity to services and parks.

Many expat families live in Brevnov due to the proximity to services and parks.

Monastery in Brevnov

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Nebusice

Nebusice is a steadily growing community, now officially part of Prague 6, comprised largely of expat families who settle here to be

near the international schools.

HousingMost of the housing here, especially where expat families tend to live, consists of newly-built, modern family homes, and rent for a three-bedroom villa starts at around CZK40,000, reaching CZK100,000 a month or more for the most luxurious homes, with indoor pools and enormous gardens.

Health careUnicare Medical Centre, Na Dlouhem Lanu 11

NegativesAlthough you can take a commuter train to get into town, you’ll definitely find life a lot easier with a car if you choose to make your home in Nebusice.

PositivesLiving in Nebusice, you can almost imagine that you’re not even in the city anymore, as you’re surrounded by lakes and forests.

Horomerice

This village-like area is in an outlying part of Prague known as Prague West.

HousingHere you can find a three- or even four-bedroom family house for about CZK40,000.

Health careUnicare Medical Centre, Na Dlouhem Lanu 11

Living in Nebusice, you can almost

imagine that you’re not even in the city anymore, as you’re

surrounded by lakes and forests.

Nebusice by air

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NegativesYou’ll probably want to have a car if you live here, since the area is about a 10-minute drive from the end of the green line Metro in the Dejvice area, though there are bus connections.

PositivesThe English International School Prague is within walking distance of several of the new housing developments here.

Prague 7

Set along the west bank of the Vltava, Prague 7 is one of Prague’s smallest districts, home to the Prague Zoo and famous football club AC Sparta.

Letna

Letna has an interesting mix. Right over the river, across from Stare Mesto, it offers access to Letna and Stromovka parks. You’ll also see

(and hear) the stadium of one of Prague’s two football teams, Sparta Praha.

HousingIf you wish to live right at the entrance to one of the city’s largest and most peaceful parks, Stromovka Park, expect apartments to start at about CZK28,000. You can still find lovely apartments in Letna, near Letenske namesti, starting from about CZK15,000 for a one- or two-bedroom.

Health careLetna has one of the city’s few 24-hour pharmacies at Milady Horakove 18; there’s also the American Medical Centre on Janovskeho 48.

PositivesThere’s an abundance of options for grocery shopping. Letna and Stromovka parks are within walking distance. Excellent ‘restaurant row’ right behind Letenske namesti.

NegativesCan get rowdy before, during and after football matches. Not as clean as the neighbouring district of Prague 6.

There’s an abundance of options for grocery shopping in Letna.

The view from Letna

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We hope you have enjoyed our Essentials Guide Prague and found it useful. Our goal was to provide

relocating families with a primer to life in Prague which contained practical information that would demystify the process and ease the transition to our city. As well, we hoped that the images we selected would convey the complex – and at times strikingly beautiful – character of the city and its people.

Conclusion

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At The English International School we endeavour to provide for our students and families an

environment in which they can thrive during their time in Prague. We take our role seriously and encourage you to visit us to find out more.

P R A G U E

ESSENTIALSTHE

GUIDE



Education and learning has always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be.


CONTACT [email protected] FOR MORE INFORMATION ON SCHOOL ADMISSIONS

prague essentials guide

Documents

culture p

language p

education p

conclusion p

demographics p

cityscape p

climate p

wellness p