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    A Brief history of

    RAJDEEP LAHANAME

    PGDM 1ST YEAR

    CALCUTTA BUSINESS SCHOOLCLASS

    MR. & MRS. DEVADASONFACULTY

    The NECKTIE

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    WHAT IS A NECKTIE ?

    The Necktie (or Tie) is a long pieceof cloth worn for decorative purposes

    around the neck or shoulders,

    resting under the shirt collar andknotted at the throat.

    Men and women wear neckties as part

    of regular office attire or formal wear.Neckties can also be worn as part of a

    uniform (e.g. military, school).

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    THE HISTORY OF NECKTIE

    1618-1648: THE THIRTYYEARS WAR

    It was around this time

    that the CROATIAN

    mercenaries from the

    FRENCH Military

    Frontier wearing theirtraditional small

    knotted neckerchiefs

    aroused the interest of

    the PARISIANS. Due to

    the slight difference in

    the Croatian words for

    Croats,Hrvati, and the

    French word, Croates,

    the garment gained the

    name CRAVAT

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    1650-1720: THE STEINKIRK

    The STIENKIRK, a neck cloth with long lace ends and

    which is worn in a disheveled manner became very popular.

    It originated in THE BATTLE OF STEENKERQUE, when the

    French soldiers tucked their neck scarves into their

    buttonholes because they were caught by surprise by the

    enemy and had no time to properly dress.

    17201800:

    STOCKS,SOLITAIRES, NECKCLOTHES&

    CRAVATS

    In 1715 another kind of neckwear called STOCKS, made its

    appearance. Stocks were initially just a small piece of muslin

    folded into a narrow band wound a few times round the shirt

    collar and secured from behind with a pin. The ends were

    tucked into a black silk bag worn at the nape of the neck. The SOLITAIRE was a variation of the bag wig. This form

    had matching ribbons stitched around the bag. After the stock

    was in place, the ribbons would be brought forward and tied in

    a large bow in front of the wearer.

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    Clockwise from top:

    1)ASTI

    ENKIR

    K

    2)A STOCK

    3)A SOLITAIRE

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    1800-1850: CRAVATS,STOCKS,SCARVES& BANDANAS

    During this time, there was also much interest in the way to tie

    a proper cravat and this led to a series of publications. Thisbegan , in the year 1918 with NECKCLOTHITANIA, which is a

    book that contained instructions and illustrations on how to tie

    14 different cravats. It was also the first book to use the word

    tie in association with neckwear.

    BANDANA : A Bandana is also known as a kerchief. A

    kerchief (from the French word couvre-chefwhich means"cover the head") is a triangular or square piece of cloth tied

    around the head or around the neck for protective or decorative

    purposes.

    SCARVES : A scarf is a piece of fabric worn on or near the

    head or around the neck for warmth, cleanliness, fashion or forreligious reasons. Ancient Rome is one of the first origins of the

    scarf, where it was not used to keep warm, but to keep clean. It

    was called the sudarium, which translates from Latin to

    English as "sweat cloth", and was used to wipe the sweat from

    the neck and face in hot weather. They were originally worn by

    men around their neck or tied to their belt.

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    1) A PAGE FROM

    NECKCLOTHITANIA

    2) Different types of

    SCARVES

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    1850-1920: BOWTIES,SCARVES,ASCOTS& THE LONGNECK TIE

    The industrial revolution created a need for neckwearthat was easy to put on, comfortable and would last an

    entire workday. The modern necktie, as is still worn by

    millions of men today, was born. It was long, thin and easy

    to knot and it didnt come undone.

    In 1864, the first mass-produced readymade tie waspatented and became widely popular throughout much of

    GERMANY and the UNITED STATES of AMERICA.

    In 1880, the BRITISH MILITARY abandoned their

    brightly coloured uniforms in an effort to camouflage;however, their original colours remained in the stripes of

    their neckties, which became a signature part of their

    uniform.

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    BOWTIE : The bow tie is a men's necktie popularly worn

    with formal attire, such as suits or dinner jackets. It consists

    of a ribbon of fabric tied around the collar in a symmetrical

    manner such that the two opposite ends form loops. It is also

    informally called as DICKIE BOW.

    ASCOT : An ascot tie, or ascot, is a narrow neckband with

    wide pointed wings, traditionally made of pale grey patternedsilk. This wide, formal tie is usually patterned, folded over,

    and fastened with a stickpin or tie tack. It is usually reserved

    for wear with morning dress for formal daytime weddings

    and worn with a cutaway morning coat and striped grey

    trousers. This type of dress cravat is made of a thicker, woven

    type of silk similar to a modern tie and is traditionally either

    grey or black.

    THE LONG NECKTIE : The modern day NECK TIE came

    into existence during this period, which can be classified in

    terms of different types of knots, fabrics, designs etc

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    1) AN ASCOTTIE2) A BOWTIE

    3) A NECKTIE FROMA

    1913 ARROW

    COLLARAD

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    1920-1950:

    After the First World War, hand-painted ties became an

    accepted form of decoration in America. The widths of some of

    these ties went up to 4.5 inches (110 mm). These loud,flamboyant ties sold very well all the way through the 1950s.

    1920 : The French fashion designers invented the first variation

    of the Designer Tie which were made from very expensive

    materials and had very bold and colourful designs.

    1920 : The Macclesfield tie became very popular among wealthy

    Americans. These ties featured a geometric pattern that wasspecialty of this London areas textile mills.

    1926 : American tailor JESSE LANGSDORF created a new

    method of tie production that improved the elasticity and the

    fabrics ability to return to its original shape.

    1936 : The Duke of Windsor invented the W

    IND

    SOR KNOT for

    ties, a wide, triangular knot placed on shirt collars.

    1940s : Neckties became much more wider and were adorned

    with unique and bolder patterns, further symbolizing the

    freedom of expression.

    1950s : The Neckties became thinner ,less decorative and thus

    more formal.

    THE BOLD AND BROADERLOOK.

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    1950S- PRESENTDAY : THE EMERGENCEOF THE FORMALNECKTIE

    The Bold Look lasted until about 1951, when the "Mister T" look (so termed by

    Esquire magazine), was introduced. The new style, characterized by tapered suits,

    slimmer lapels, and smaller hat brims, included thinner and not so wild ties. Tie

    widths slimmed to 3" by 1953 and continued getting thinner up until the mid-

    1960s; length increased to about 52" as opposed to the length of 48 earlier.

    The 1960s brought about an influx of pop art influenced designs. Ties became

    wider, returning to their 4 inch width, sometimes with garish colors and

    designs.

    In the 1980s, narrower ties, some as narrow as 1" but more typically 3" to 3"

    wide, became popular again. Into the 1990s, as ties got wider again, increasingly

    unusual designs became common. Novelty (or joke) ties or deliberately kitschy ties

    designed to make a statement gained a certain popularity in the 1980s and 1990s.

    These included ties featuring cartoon characters, commercial products or pop

    culture icons, and those made of unusual materials, such as plastic or wood.

    During this period, with men wearing their pants at their hips, ties lengthened to

    57".

    At the start of the 21st century, ties widened to 3" to 3" wide, with a broad

    range of patterns available, from traditional stripes, foulards, and club ties (Ties

    with a crest or design signifying a club, organization, or order) to abstract,

    themed, and humorous ones. The standard length remains 57", though 2008 and

    2009 saw a return to narrower ties. While ties as wide as 3" are still available,

    ties under 3" wide also became popular, particularly with younger men and the

    fashion-conscious.

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    CLASSIFICATIONOFNECKTIES:A. ON THE BASISOF DIFFERENTKNOTS :

    CROSS KNOT FOUR-IN HAND KNOT SMALL KNOT

    HALF-WINDSOR KNOT WINDSOR KNOT PRINCE ALBERT KNOT

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    CLASSIFICATIONOFNECKTIES:B. On the basis of different fabrics :

    RAYON TIE LEATHER TIE

    SILK TIE WOLLEN TIE

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    CLASSIFICATIONOFNECKTIES:C. ON THE BASISOF DIFFERENTDESIGNS :

    HAND PAINTED TIE ANIMAL PRINTED TIE

    STRIPED TIE POLKA DOTTED TIE

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    THENECKTIEASAFORMALATTIRE:

    SYMBOL OF STATUS : Ties acted as a symbol of status for men in

    19th century as usually rich men used to wear ties of very expensive

    materials to show-off their class.

    SIGN OF MEMBERSHIP : Ties soon became the basic norms for

    men to be the members of certain distinguished clubs and societies.

    Even some of the clubs used a definite pattern or colour of tie to

    indicate the wearers membership to a certain club.

    AS A PART OF UNIFORMS : Soon ties became a part of uniform

    for military personnel as well as school and college students.

    AS A DRESS CODE FOR FORMAL AND SOCAIL DAY OR

    EVENING EVENTS : The neckties also became a part of the dress

    code to attend any sort of social events. Usually the BLACK TIE OR

    WHITE TIE are considered as a integral part of the dress code for

    social events.

    AS A DRESS CODE FOR CORPORATE OFFICE CULTURE : Today

    The NECKTIE has become a regulatory dress code to work in or

    attend any sort of corporation or office.

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