pro beauty jan feb 2016
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The leading trade magazine for all professionals working in the beauty sector in AfricaTRANSCRIPT
Jan/Feb 2016
www.probeauty.co.za
Black is thenew black
Point of contactFront desk staff
Skills setState oF
trainingFuture watchSpa & Ma trends 2016
Tantalising teaserProfessional Beauty Cape town Preview
aFriCan Skin treatMentS
cape town
Cal-mo august 2014 Fp.indd 1 2016/01/19 11:38 AM
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
In this issue...
16
Regulars5 Industry news Local and international news
55 Hair news What’s hot and happening in
the hair industry
60 Product news All the latest launches
64 SAAHSP The latest news from
SAAHSP
Business15 Insider Tracking the industry with
stats
16 Ask the experts All your questions answered
19 The customisation of treatments
Services that ‘speak’ to the client
20 On the frontline Building a strong front
desk staff
23 An ideal blend The perfect mix of online
and offline platforms
Spa Focus24 Top 10 trends for 2016 What this year holds for the
spa industry
28 Glenburn Spa turns 10, changes name
Muldersdrift spa undergoes metamorphosis
Nails52 The perfect nail recruit Sourcing nail salon staff
Medical Aesthetics57 Medical aesthetics
trends for 2016 Experts give their predictions
Features33 Rosacea reality Treating a ‘rosy’ skin disorder
34 The return of the ‘apothecary’ Dr Gobac opens first skin clinic
36 Dark and really, really lovely African skin treatments
42 Curtain-raiser for Cape Town Professional Beauty Cape Town
Show Preview
46 Pure and simple Natural and organic products
48 A solid grounding Are our graduates good
enough?
48
36
46
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079
The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com
On the coverCover source:www.shutterstock.com
Subscribe9 issues for R475 (RSA)To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
Publisher Mark Moloney 011 781 5970 [email protected]
Managing Director Yolanda Knott 083 654 9098 [email protected]
Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970 [email protected]
Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970 [email protected]
Art Director Ursula Wong 011 781 5970 [email protected]
Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall 082 880 2047 [email protected]
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Printers ABC Press 021 5343210
It’s time to take out the crystal ball and see what this year may hold for the
industry. In terms of the spa sector, owners and managers must ensure, first
and foremost, to keep the client’s spend budget in line with value for money
services. Another trend identified in our article on spa trends 2016, is the need
for spas to tap into the Generation Z market, previously not considered an
appropriate age group for spas.
On the medical aesthetics front, non-surgical anti-ageing treatments
such as toxins, dermal fillers and threads, are likely to grow in popularity
during this year. In terms of peels, the ‘less is more’ approach is proving
a trend, where milder peels that are performed frequently are preferred
to very strong peels.
This edition of Professional Beauty puts the focus on an important
issue that is threatening the industry – that of the move by the AHPCSA
(Allied Health Professions Council of South Africa) to take over ‘non-
therapeutic massage, reflexology and aromatherapy’. Should this
go through no therapist will be able to perform these services unless
registered with the AHPCSA and could only perform the services within
a registered practice. Think of the dire consequences such a ruling
would have on spas – where massage is far and away the most popular
treatment – and on graduates wanting to work on cruise liners. The
industry needs to stand together to fend off this threat.
Joanna Sterkowicz
Editor
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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
business tips
5
Located in the retail precinct of
Melrose Arch, Johannesburg,
the Harnn stores offers skin
and body care products, home spa
products, lifestyle fragrances, interior
sprays, diffusers, candles and herbal
tea infusions.
In an exclusive interview with
Professional Beauty, the brand’s
founder, Paul Harnn, said: “We are
confident that Harnn will do well in
South Africa. It is unique as it is 10%
natural and contemporary, as well as
being Asian-inspired.
“In addition, Thailand is a popular
tourist destination for South Africans
and many will already be familiar with
our brand and products.”
Harnn reveals that he had to submit
News in pictures
News
a comprehensive business plan to
Thailand, which included detailed
market research, before he was given
the exclusive rights for distribution in
South Africa.
“We aim to expand into the African
Market over the next two years,” says
Harnn.
The Harnn team researched many
different locations for their first
South Africa store before deciding on
Melrose Arch.
“It is a good fit for us as the entire
Melrose Arch precinct caters for
the more seasoned/well-travelled
shopper and offers many high end
luxury brands. We will also be opening
a Harnn Spa in the not too distant
future,” comments Harnn.
The Hitech Group
has announced that
Medilase is now the sole
distributor in Southern
Africa for systems
from Barcelona-based
company, INTERmedic,
a prestigious manu-
facturer of medical
light-based systems.
During a recent visit
to Barcelona, Hitech
MD Wicus Olivier (left)
was introduced to some INTERmedic systems by the
company’s Ricard Serra (middle) and Francisco Javier
Arcusa.
All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.
Expanding on the brand’s Asian
holistic approach, Harnn noted
that he believes in establishing the
natural balance between body, mind
and environment.
“We use natural active ingredients
to help restore that healthy balance
through the five-sense experience of
sight, sound, taste, touch and scent,”
he explained.
Originally an architect, Harnn
finds designing for the brand
much more exciting than being an
architect. “I spend most of my time
on the creative side of the business,
designing packaging, retail shops,
blending essential oils, testing
formulations and creating the menu
for our tearoom.”
Hitech takes on INTERmedic
Customer service was the focus of a lively and
interactive panel discussion at a Professional
Beauty Network Breakfast event held at 54 on
Bath in Johannesburg in November. Speakers
were Deena Govender (BMW South Africa (Pty)
Ltd.), Francisco Garcia (Amani Spas), Wesley
Grobler (The Saxon), Jade Kirkel (Sorbet), and
Diana van Sittert (Dermalogica).
Luxury Thai lifestyle brand Harnn has opened its first retail concept store in South Africa, making this the 14th country in which the brand is distributed.
Paul HarnnHarnn opens in SA
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
6 industry news
News in brief■ Black Pearl launches in Florence: Michelle Roberts
of Black Pearl SA and brand
ambassador Candice Lavoie
visited the Four Seasons Firenze in
Florence late last year to introduce
the market to the Black Pearl
experience.
New MD for Environ Distribution SAWayne La Grange has been announced as MD of Environ Distribution South Africa (EDSA). La Grange was formerly EDSA general manager, having joined the company in 2014.
In his new position La Grange will
direct and control the distribution
company’s operations, and give
strategic guidance and direction to
the board to ensure that the company
achieves its mission and objectives.
“I stand firmly behind the conviction
that brands don’t make companies great.
Great people make brands that lead
companies to greatness,” says La Grange.
Face & Body Synergy, a medical
aesthetics clinic based in White
River, celebrates its 10th anniversary
on 1 April.
Run by Dr Hendrik Toerien and
wife Marinda, Synergy had humble
beginnings, with only a single
therapist and a hairdresser. Synergy
now offers medical aesthetics
treatments using devices such
as the Palomar laser, an IPL skin
rejuvenation and hair removal
system, as well as a Cooltech Fat
Freeze machine.
“Our passion is weight loss and
being able to assist people to feel
and look good, as well as building
He is passionate about what
Environ stands for, stating that it
is not a cosmetic company but a
company that markets a product
created by one of the world’s
leading aesthetic surgeons – Dr Des
Fernandes – who cares about the
health of people’s skin.
Medical aesthetics clinic turns 10
their self-esteem,”
says Marinda Toerien.
She notes that
Dr Toerien has won
the Slender Wonder
Doctor of the Country
four times in a row.
■ First Soprano Ice for Mauritius: Best Lasers has sold the first-
ever Soprano Ice in Mauritius, to
Geraldine Chasteau Fayd’herbe of
Samaya Beauty Lab.
■ 3D-Beauty lashes at Fairway Spa: The Fairway Spa at the
Fairway Hotel and Golf Resort
now offers 3D-Beauty Eyelash
Extensions. These FDA-approved
lashes are developed in the US.
■ Brow Bar takes on LoLa: The Brow Bar has added LoLa
Brows to its treatment offering.
This salon treatment uses semi-
permanent colour to achieve
three-dimensional brows, which
can last up to three weeks.
■ ESSE honoured for community support: Trevor Steyn, founder
and CEO of Esse Organic Skincare,
has received a Bioprospecting
Award for supporting local
communities through profit-
sharing, where indigenous
biological resources are utilised in
the brand’s products.
After months of
renovations, My Skin
Centre has relaunched
at the Clearwater
Mall, Roodepoort. The
aesthetic centre has
doctors and skincare
professionals on call
to offer anti-ageing
treatments.
My Skin Centre Relaunches
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
industry news
8
News in pictures Bezuidenhout joins Radiant
– Renaissance Day Spa; Business
Excellence KZN – Briget Filmer Spa
and Skin; and Up & Coming – Crystal
Clear.
Twincare lauds top achieversOn 27 October, Twincare International acknowledged its top achievers at the inaugural Twincare Gala awards ceremony held at Cantare, Montecasino, in Johannesburg.
“The purpose of this
glamorous event is to
inspire spa and salon
owners to continue elevating
standards of excellence, which raises
the bar for the industry and clients
alike,” said Twincare CEO Stav
Dimitriadis.
Natural Expressions won
Twincare’s Salon of the Year Award,
with the Loyalty Award going to
Face Value.
Winners in the Guinot categories
were: Salon of the Year JHB – Natural
Expressions; Salon of the Year KZN
– Brookdale Health Hydro; Salon of
the Year CT – Yemaya Spa & Hair;
Salon of the Year PE – Purebliss;
Top Retailer – Wendy’s House of
Beauty; Business Excellence JHB
Bianca Bezuidenhout
has joined Radiant
Healthcare as sales
representative.
On completion
of her Somatology
degree at Camelot
I n t e r n a t i o n a l
Houghton in
Johannesburg in
2012, Bezuidenhout
worked for Steiner
as an aesthetician on the Carnival Valor.
She subsequently fell in love with medical
aesthetics and result-driven treatments at
Sprout Medical Aesthetics.
“I’m excited to join Radiant Healthcare and
am up for the challenge of selling amazing
devices to the medical aesthetics industry,”
says Bezuidenhout.
Kerryne Krause-Neufeldt
Matis category winners were: Salon
of the Year JHB – Matis Institute
Rosebank; Salon of the Year KZN –
Pravina’s Hair and Beauty Centre;
Salon of the Year CT – House of
Freya; Salon of the Year East London
– The Beauty Clinic; Top Retailer –
Matis Institute Fourways; Business
Excellence – The Beauty Clinic; and
Up & Coming – Beauty by Chantelle.
RégimA won two awards at the prestigious Pharmaceutical
& Cosmetic Review Awards held in October – for Best
Product Range 2015 in South Africa and Best New
Product across five categories (Innovation; Formulation;
Packaging; Marketing; and Regulations). Pictured at the
awards ceremony is RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt (centre).
Salon of the Year
Loyalty Award
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All this for only R975 for an Individual Beauty TherapistNail Tech or Hair Stylist – Individual R895
Beauty Salon (up to 3 therapists) R2,850 – Additional therapists R450 eachNail and Hair Salon (up to 3 therapists) R2,250 – Additional therapists R400 each
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
10 industry news
BTL won two awards at the recent My
Face My Body UK Awards, namely the
Best Body Reshaping Procedure for
BTL Exilis Elite and the Most Innovative
Aesthetic Treatment for BTL Intima.
Exilis Elite also received a Highly
Commended in the Best Skin Tightening
Treatment category. In addition, BTL
made the Elle Beauty Treat List 2015.
Meanwhile, BTL Aesthetics South
Africa has introduced two country
managers to its growing team: Sylvia
Drake and Zama Chiliza.
Drake owned and managed a laser
and skincare clinic for seven years,
while Chiliza is a qualified somatologist
who has completed a New Managers
Programme for Wits Business School.
Says Best: “Being in the industry,
I could see how well our Alma
Laser devices were doing in
the market, particularly the laser hair
removal system. Before we opened GLO
in October, we travelled to London with
the aim of opening a salon there. But
we decided to get the first one up and
running in South Africa and then to offer
Beauty salon chain Amazi, which
only employs women from previously
disadvantaged communities, opened
its first-ever salon in Cape Town’s
Maynard Mall in December.
Spearheaded by businesswoman
Divya Vasant, Amazi was conceived
with a strong social purpose
and overarching attitude of
empowerment. The brand found a
natural synergy with the SEW (Sorbet
Empowering Women) Foundation.
Says Vasant: “Sorbet founder Ian
Fuhr has always wanted to build a
brand that would gave back in a real
BTL latestNew salon concept launched
it as a franchise model. Our second
salon will open in a few months.”
Best and Caldeira were at pains to
bring ‘a European feel and vibe’ to
GLO.
“Most salons have very subtle music
whereas we have upbeat music and
very happy, bubbly staff,” continues
Best. “Clients have commented to
us about how they really do love the
different vibe in our salon.”
For laser hair removal, GLO uses
Alma Lasers Soprano Ice and for body
contouring, Alma Beauty Reform. The
salon also offers beauty treatments
such as facials, massages and waxing.
In-house products include Lilian Terry
and Lamelle.
Andy Best and Claudio Caldeira have opened the GLO Laser and Beauty salon at the Parkview Shopping Centre in Pretoria.
GLO opens its doors
and tangible way. Ian met with
Tracey Chambers, the CEO of The
Clothing Bank (TCB) and, using
the experience of TCB, we came
up with the idea of home-grown,
micro-beauty businesses that
provide women with the skills and
tools to offer beauty services to
their communities. Amazi is to be
franchised.”
Zama Chiliza Sylvia Drake
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
12 industry news
Over 30 beauty industry
stakeholders attended the
meeting, held at the Radisson
Blu Gautrain Hotel in Sandton.
Sandy Fuhr and Menna Kleine,
both board members of SAAHSP
(South African Association of Health
& Skincare Professionals), explained
how, should the AHPCSA succeed
in opening a sub-register for ‘non-
therapeutic massage, reflexology
and aromatherapy’, then all beauty
therapists, skincare therapists and
somatologists who perform these
skills would have to register with the
AHPCSA. They would only be allowed
to perform such services in registered
practices, and not salons or spas.
Said Fuhr: “Since 1972, the
beauty industry has been more or
less regulated by SAAHSP – we are
Beauty industry faces up to AHPCSA threatOn 9 December, Professional Beauty convened an industry gathering in Johannesburg to discuss the ramifications of the AHPCSA’s (Allied Health Professions Council of South Africa’s) aim to open a sub-register for ‘non-therapeutic massage, reflexology and aromatherapy’.
SAQA-appointed, but we are not a
statutory body. Today we accept nails
and medical aesthetics as part of our
industry. We believe that the AHPCSA
wants to usurp our business.
“The AHPCSA Act was originally
introduced for homeopathy. Anyone
who registers with AHPCSA is
assigned a practice number and your
client becomes a ‘patient’. You may
not retail any products from your
practice and you may not advertise or
use the word ‘clinic’ in your practice
name. Furthermore, you cannot hand
out gift vouchers and you can only
work with people who are registered.
“If this AHPCSA ruling goes
through, day spas and destination
spas will not be allowed to offer
massage treatments and beauty
school graduates won’t be able to
work on cruise liners.”
Broadcaster and former Services
Seta CEO, Ivor Blumenthal, suggested
the industry form a confederation
representing all the professional
designations. “You need to sell
these designations to your clients.
Your message to the public as a
confederation should be – don’t do
business with someone who isn’t
designated. If you want to fight the
AHPCSA – don’t bother sending letters
to ministers – get your customers
behind you, take the matter to the
courts and get everyone to register
with your confederation. You need
to speak to government in a unified
voice.”
Professional Beauty’s Phil Woods,
who moderated the meeting, stressed
that the underlying idea was for the
beauty industry to regulate
itself, rather than to be subject
to the AHPCSA.
“We need a mechanism
for broader engagement
with industry, the public and
government,” said Woods, “a
confederation that says – we
are the industry voice.”
Professional Beauty held a
follow-up meeting at its offices
in Ferndale on 15 January,
where it was agreed that Fuhr,
Woods and Mariska du Plessis
would meet with AHPCSA
chairperson Dr Craig Wright
before the end of January.
Menna Kleine, Phil Woods and Sandy Fuhr
After
Before
Fa l l i n l o v e w i t h y o u r s k i n & w a t c h y o u r b u s i n e s s g r o wFa l l i n l o v e w i t h y o u r s k i n & w a t c h y o u r b u s i n e s s g r o w
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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN
DECEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH
DECEMBER 2014?
InSIDeR SAlOnWe asked you how
treatment business was
in December 2015 and
75% of you said it was
up; many attributed this
to the festive season as it seems people had more time
and money to spend.
Thirteen-percent of you reported that business was
down. Another 12% said that it was much the same as
the year before.
Regarding retail business, 63% of salons said sales
were up – many attributed this to new products
being introduced, as well as increased marketing and
advertising. Thirty-seven percent of you reported that
retail business was the same as the year before.
The average treatment room occupancy for the
month of December
was 83%.
We asked how you fill
in appointments when
business is slow, 62%
of you offer specials.
Of this percentage,
one salon SMS-es
clients with specials
and does mail drops in
the area. Another salon
offers value added
treatments.
We asked if you
offer skin peels in your
salon, 63% said yes and
37%, no.
The month in numbers
AVERAGE TREATMENT
ROOM OCCUPANCY
83%
37% BETTER
13% SAME
50% WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN
DECEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH
DECEMBER 2014?
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN
DECEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH
DECEMBER 2014?
87% BETTER
0% SAME
13% WORSE
InSIDeR SPAAn overwhelming majority of spas reported an increase in
treatment business over December, as compared to the same
time last year. One destination spa experienced a large influx
of guests due to its hotel introducing self-catering units.
Another spa almost doubled its revenue because of extended
operating hours and therapists successfully upgrading most
of their treatments. One spa reported a 25% increase in
treatment business but had raised its prices by between 10
and 20%, while another spa offered guests complimentary
hydro facilities for treatments valued at R800+.
Half of spas polled experienced a decrease in retail
business. One spa noted that clients buy their retail products
before the holiday season commences. Conversely, another
spa had a number of foreign visitors, who proved easy to
retail to.
There was quite a variance in treatment room occupancy,
with some spas reporting 90% and others as low as 39%.
Only a small percentage (28%) of spas offer peels as
stand-alone treatments but some offer rejuvenations facials
that include an AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) peel.
All of you actively fill empty slots in your
appointment schedules, by calling up
clients and working off cancellation
lists, and offering specials during
quiet periods. One spa has
therapists handing out promotional
pamphlets, while another has a
marketing team that focuses on
midweek groups.
AVERAGE TREATMENT
ROOM OCCUPANCY
68%
75% BETTER
12% SAME
13% WORSE
Insiderbusiness trends
15
Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, east London and Port elizabeth to track business in December 2015.
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN
DECEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH
DECEMBER 2014?
63% BETTER
37% SAME
0% WORSE
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Trevor Steyn is an organic chemist and the founder of Esse Organic Skincare.
Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
Ask the experts
What exactly does probiotic mean and why are probiotic ingredients beneficial for the skin?
The discoveries made by the
Human Microbiome Project
have remodelled our approach
to skin care and offer us new
techniques to slow the effects of
ageing on skin.
It is now clear that skin is an ecology,
with more than 10 microbes for every
human cell. These microbes are
essential to the optimal functioning
of skin and current skincare regimes
ignore this basic fact.
Probiotics are microbes that are
good for you and a prebiotic is a
'food' that favours the growth of
these microbes.
Probiotics can shift the skin’s
ecology to favour a diverse and
harmonious ecosystem that is
healthy enough to resist attacks from
pathogens and to reduce the impacts
of ageing on the skin.
Incorporating live probiotics into
conventional skincare products is
not generally feasible. Most products
contain water and preservatives are
required to prevent spoilage. These
preservatives, by definition, kill
microbes – so the probiotic cfu per ml
would be zero.
Claims in cosmetics are justified in four different levels:Level 4 – These products use the
‘broth’ from a microbial soup.
Microbes are grown on a substrate
(think of this as a watery solution
of microbial nutrients) and then the
probiotic microbes are filtered off.
The ‘broth’ is the remaining solution
(which has the byproducts of the
microbes in it – not the microbes
themselves). This is used as an
ingredient in a final cosmetic product.
Good skincare results can sometimes
be obtained using this technique, but
as a probiotic ingredient, this is a bit
of a grey claim.
Level 3 – These probiotic extracts are
called lysates because the probiotic
cells are ruptured – obviously killing
them in the process. In this technique,
the probiotics are again cultured in a
nutrient-rich substrate but instead of
filtering them off, the cells are broken
so that their cell contents leak out
before the mixture is filtered. This
method results in an ‘extract’ that
contains the cytoplasm (cell contents)
of probiotic microbes. Using this as
a probiotic claim is more acceptable.
Level 2 – In this technique, the
microbes are kept whole but they are
killed with heat. This process is called
tyndallisation and here the culture
of probiotics is heated to 60°C and
cooled again over three days. These
probiotics can still dock onto skin
cells but obviously can’t grow and
divide to significantly alter the skin’s
microbiome.
These three levels of probiotic
supplementation are the easiest
to incorporate into cosmetic
preparations. The ingredient is simply
added to the formulation with no real
change necessary in the preservative
system or in the rest of the product.
These three levels of probiotics cater
for the majority of claims in skincare.
Level 1 – This is the incorporation
of live probiotic microbes in the
final product. There are a number of
difficulties in this process. Firstly, the
use of a preservative system would kill
the microbes, so the product needs
to be preservative free. Secondly, it
is exceedingly difficult to ensure that
the probiotics are not killed during
the production process. Thirdly, there
are storage considerations for the
final product – if the temperature
drops too low, then the water in the
probiotic cells will freeze and the cell
membrane of these cells will break
and most of the cells will die. If the
temperature rises above 40 °C, the
enzymes in the live cells will start
to denature and, again, most of the
probiotics will die.
To date only one company has
made claims that include the use
of live probiotics in a skincare
preparation. Esse Organic Skincare
has overcome these challenges in its
Esse Plus Probiotic Serum and Esse
Sensitive Serum – both contain one
billion live probiotics per millilitre.
ask the experts
16
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
17 ask the experts
DO YOU HAVe AnY QUeSTIOnS TO PUT TO OUR eXPeRTS?Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to [email protected]
I’ve heard about oxygen (O2) infusion therapy – what exactly is it and what are the benefits for the skin?
Every cell of the body is living and breathing
and needs oxygen to survive. Inevitably the
oxygen levels within our skin cells fall as
we age, which can lead to loss of elasticity and
bounce, and the formation of lines and wrinkles.
O2 infusion therapy uses powerful bursts of
compressed air to infuse the skin with oxygen to
help visibly plump out fine lines and increase skin
firmness.
Whilst helping restore elasticity, O2 infusion can
also stimulate tissue repair, as well as heal and
rebalance the skin. When combined with high-
potency actives, the oxygen infusion facilitates
an increase in the depth of product penetration
and therefore the effectiveness of the active
ingredients is far greater. Nutrients, peptides, anti-
oxidants and essential oils are able to reach deeper
into the skin, providing intense nourishment and
allowing it to repair itself from the inside out.
I recently entered the permanent make-up industry and would like to know how I can ensure that the device I am using is hygienic.
A permanent make-up device should be designed
in such a way that there is no transmission of
possible blood-borne pathogens from one client to
the other. In the old days, machine parts were metal and
not disposable, and had to be sterilised by the technician.
Today there are cartridge systems available for cosmetic
tattooing that are for once-off use and disposable.
The most important factor is that every surface area
inside the machine that came into contact with a client’s
blood and the pigment should be disposable. This means
the outside casing, the outside needle cap, the needle itself,
the needle shaft and the bit behind the needle should all be
disposable and sealed off from the motor of the machine.
The best option is using a device that provides an integrated
cartridge system where everything is built-in and sealed-off.
Furthermore, the outside of the device should be covered
with barrier film and replaced between clients. Needles
MUST be disposed of in a responsible manner by using
a sharps container and having a medical waste removal
company dispose of it.
noella Gabriel is MD and co-founder of premium British skincare brand Elemis, which celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2015.
nikki van Gend of Image Division is a qualified somatologist and permanent make-up artist and trainer (Certified Permanent Cosmetic Professional). Van Gend is a board member of PCASA (Permanent Cosmetics Association of South Africa) and is the authorised distributor for LiPigments in South Africa.
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Magazine Advert Garden Mint FOOT SOAK.pdf 1 2015/12/07 2:45:45 PM
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
business tips
19
I’ve just returned from a
whirlwind trip to Hong Kong
where I attended Cosmoprof
Asia, a leading trade fair for the
beauty and wellness industry.
I love Hong Kong – the efficiency,
pace, energy and excitement of the
city.
The first few days were spent
traipsing the aisles and stands of the
show where I met fabulous people
and learned new things, but also
landed up with a bad back and a
very tired body. Anyone who does
this show will know what I mean!
Luckily, part of my job is to check
out what’s new in the spa world
and to compare our South African
services to international services.
I was therefore forced (and not
reluctantly I might add) to do the
spa circuit of leading hotels.
I started at The Four Seasons
Spa, checking in online, a seamless
process. I’d booked a deep tissue
massage and was amazed at how
my therapist immediately zoned in
on my body’s needs. She customised
my treatment according to my
aches and pains. That was also my
experience at the Mandarin Oriental
and all the luxury spas I visited.
Customised treatments are the
new thing. Not a cheap thing (R2,500
for an hour treatment in a top Hong
Kong spa), but a good thing!
People are looking for a treatment
that ‘speaks to them’; something
personal. They want an authentic
experience, but much more than
the décor or the ambiance of the
spa, they want a high standard and
personal treatment.
The customisationof treatments
Debbie Merdjan reflects on her recent experiences of Hong Kong’s luxury spa circuit.
Personal touchThree key words describe the
experiences I had everywhere:
• Quality
• Personal
• Customised
Truthfully, any treatment should be
a little customised at the very least.
No-one wants a treatment where it
feels like the therapist is just going
through the motions. So whatever
the treatment is, the therapist should
always make it feel customised for
that particular client.
Be personal. Be aware. Pick up on
the client’s needs.
ConsistencyBut remember that consistency is
really important too. If you are one
of a chain, you cannot suddenly be
offering anything and everything. This
doesn’t mean you cannot be clever. An
option is to offer a standard treatment
but to allow the client to choose their
oils and perhaps choose which part
of the body needs more work than
others.
Another option is blocking out
a set time, talking to the client and
customising accordingly.
We have to continue to evolve
and offer our clients what they want
to buy, rather than expecting people
to buy what we want to offer. And
while we do this, we need to maintain
standards and be practical.
I learned so much during my trip to
Hong Kong. It was exciting, stimulating
and informative and I cannot wait
to put some of these new ideas into
practice. Watch this space! PB
Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
It is not only the receptionist’s
behaviour and customer service
that is summed up as soon as a
client walks in, but the surrounds,
ambience and appeal of your spa
or salon weigh in as well.
Building a strong front desk does go
back to hiring. We often transfer one
of our therapists to front desk, simply
because it’s a natural progression to
a managerial position, or perhaps the
therapist’s treatments are curtailed
due to carpal tunnel syndrome. But
have you ever stopped to ask yourself
whether this is the right reason for this
specific position?
Front desk staff require a very
distinct set of abilities; yes it’s a
bonus if they have a beauty therapy
background, but it is not the most
essential quality. Emphasis should
be placed on the following skills:
strength in both verbal and written
communication; good interpersonal,
organisational and people skills;
attention to detail; multitasker; can
work under pressure; able to deal with
customer complaints; tech-savvy; and
the ability to solve problems.
Look out for the following
personality strengths in front desk
staff – energetic person, approachable,
friendly disposition, flexible and a
team player.
AccuracyCorrect data capturing and mining
can broaden insight to various
factors affecting business, revenues,
operations and customer relationships.
simply put, your front desk can make or break you. The customer’s first real and last encounter with your brand is through your front desk. Ayesha Rajah reveals how to make your front desk excel and boost business.
On the frontline
business tips
20
Emphasise accuracy to front desk staff
when capturing data, as this will assist
in targeting specific demographics
and personalising promotions.
You can take it one step further and
have front desk staff ascertain drink,
snack, music and room temperature
preference, making the client’s
experience more special.
Implement a client record card
and follow-up system. A great way to
measure client satisfaction is to make
a follow-up call and ask very specific
questions related to service, ambience
and overall customer experience.
Training Yes, product training would be an
asset to have in the front desk position
but don’t stop there. Customer service,
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
business tips
21
Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.
telephone etiquette and general
organisational skills are essential, so
send the person for the appropriate
training.
Write out SOPs (Standard
Operating Procedures) for the front
desk position to outline the standards
that should be maintained. This will
also streamline orientation for future
staff.
Front desk etiquetteWe live in a time-starved era of instant
gratification, so your clients expect
you to be available 24/7. The reality
is that your response time needs to
meet those expectations or clients will
go elsewhere.
Here are some tips on client
expectations and response time:
answer the telephone within three
rings; e-mail within the same day (24
hours maximum); Facebook in the
course of three or four hours maximum
(the usual expectation is an immediate
response).
Today clients receive SMS birthday
wishes from just about every company
with which they deal, like insurance
companies and large retail stores. So,
be memorable – instead of sending just
another cookie cutter text message,
rather have your front desk make a
personal call wishing the client a great
day, or send out a personalised e-card.
The grooming and appearance of
your front line staff says a lot about
your brand, so insist that uniform, hair,
nails and make-up adhere to the SOPs.
Clients want to feel validated, so put
a strong emphasis on acknowledgment
for every client that steps through
the door, by giving them a smile or a
simple head nod of acknowledgement
if you are on the telephone.
It’s all in the little details and
relationship-building starts as soon
as the client walks in. Have your front
desk staff prep every morning re
clients’ preferences (e.g. what drink to
offer when they arrive) and to enquire
and engage in conversation around
their wellbeing.
Boosting salesIf your front desk staff has never
experienced a treatment, they have no
insight on the treatment procedure.
Similarly, if they have never felt the
textures of the product, how are
they expected to upsell specialised
treatments or recommend correctly?
Give front desk staff talking points
to assist in retailing, like having their
nails painted in the latest colours,
lighting a massage candle, displaying
a tester of a newly launched product
and having your monthly promotions
visible in reception.
Front desk staff must be able to
handle customer complaints in a
prompt and efficient manner. With the
reach of social media, one customer
complaint can reach thousands of
potential clients and have a negative
effect on your brand.
Let’s face it; front desk staff are
always in the firing line, so enable
them with the tools to handle difficult
situations. Always acknowledge that
the client has a problem and escort
them away to a more private space;
listen to them and don’t interrupt,
repeat key phrases back to the client
to get to the root of the complaint, call
in a manager to resolve the problem,
or compensate by offering another
treatment.
Incentivising front desk staff keeps
up morale and they will work harder
to ensure business growth. They also
need to eat, live and breathe your
brand identity, not only to be the face
of your business, but for the rest of the
team to follow. PB
FRONT DESk STAFF ESSENTIALSEmphasis should be placed on the following skills:
• Strength in both verbal and written communication
• Good interpersonal, organisational and people skills
• Attention to detail
• Multitasker
• Can work under pressure
• Able to deal with customer complaints
• Tech-savvy
• The ability to solve problems.
CAPE TOWN13 & 14 mArCh 2016
For your FREE entry, pre-register at
www.probeauty.co.za
unlock your options!
Educationail workshop Medical Aesthetics Conventions
Stock up on show specials Source new products
Focus on future and professional development
the key to your beauty business potential
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
business tips
23
As human beings we
like to embrace all our
senses when investing
in a purchase. We like
to smell subtle scents,
feel textures, taste or sample (if
possible), look at the object and make
a purchasing decision based on the
questions we subconsciously start
asking ourselves while deciding on a
purchase.
However, life has become busier.
Shopping, browsing and wandering
through malls is often seen as a luxury
due to the demands of work and life in
general. Today’s consumers live multi-
dimensional, multi-platform lives,
where the online and offline worlds are
complex and dynamic.
Although the online and offline
worlds are merging, business owners
need to remember that the two worlds
(online and offline) can support each
other and should be offered as a dual
service to your consumers. This should
be an ‘AND’ in your business and not
an ‘OR’.
Consumers enjoy both the brick
and mortar instore experience and the
online experience, depending on the
item they are looking to purchase and
how their buying habits are influenced
at the time. Having both platforms of
the retail experience offers the most
desirable options to your customers,
and attracts more footfall to both your
store and your online platform.
What they wantBut how do we know what our
customers want and how to balance
the online and offline mix for our store?You need to understand your
customers so as to offer the right
mix of online and offline and
hence the best service on both
platforms.
Due to the convenience
of online shopping, you
need to ensure your in-store
experience is one of the best
in the business. Employees
must elevate the customer
experience and treat each
consumer as an individual
with their own needs, buying
patterns and preferences.
This tailored service will make you
the ‘go to’ person in your field of
expertise.
Online consumers have erratic
shopping habits and this could
be due to lack of brand loyalty.
Consumers frequently switch
brands due to any online promo or
offer that they may come across. A
major focus is needed for creating
consumer loyalty online.
Increasing popularityAccording to Forbes Magazine, online shopping is predicted to
increase by 62% in 2016, due to
consumers feeling more confident with
online sales.
As a business offering online sales,
you need to ensure your website
has a simple, easy to use design and
call to action buttons to entice the
consumer. Alternatively, if you don’t
feel comfortable with this new online
world you can also rely on an expert or
specialist in the field who can coach and
guide you in the right direction.
If you don’t have the ultimate mix
of online and offline, you may be left
behind as our industry and the consumer
evolves. PB
An ideal blend
lauren Gibson has been with Dermalogica for just over three years, where she has been a senior instructor and a business consultant in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). She recently joined the Cape Town team as the regional manager.
The perfect mix between online and offline platforms is required to speak effectively to the new age consumer, writes lauren Gibson.
Shopping, browsing and wandering through malls is often seen as a luxury
24 spa focus
In the past the under-16 age group was not really
spa-appropriate. This is no longer the case. Find
ways to include the tech-savvy Generation Z into
your spa business. They are the future and they
are going to set trends in our industry. Sit with
a Gen Z and find ways to include them into the
health and wellness movement. Remember that
the Gen Z mother is your current biggest spender,
so look for ways to keep mommy and kid happy
while in your space.
3Fitness, exercise, movement and blood
flow are all current buzz words and are
causing consumers to become more aware
of the time they spend on their physical
fitness. More than ever before fitness and
a healthy lifestyle are becoming integrated
into how people live their lives.
Find ways to merge beauty and wellness
into fitness and vitality, as they are all
connected and work together. As the spa-
owner you need to make this happen, as it
won’t just land in your lap.
This is the number one trend and must be
taken very seriously this year if you want
sustainability in your business. In 2016
wellness will be more of a spoil and a luxury,
so ensure that you keep the client’s spend
budget in line with value for money.
Make sure that you marry the value the
guest is receiving with the money they are
spending. Check that clients are able to get
measureable results from their treatments so
that they return month after month and that
these spa visits remain in their budget.
1 Value for money
Gen Z, yes please!
It’s that time of year when we look to the future with ideas that can make a difference and grow the spa industry over the next 12 months, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.
According to over 300 industry
professionals, ranging from spa and
salon managers and beauty therapists
to The Spa Consultants team, the
following spa trends have been
identified for 2016.
As a spa-owner and/or manager, you should look at
any way in which your business can take advantage of
these trends and find a way to capitalise on the trend in
order to build loyalty for the future.
2 Fit for life
TOP 10 trends for 2016
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
25
A good facial, a brilliant wax, a fabulous
pedicure are all at our fingertips today, but the
feeling of being genuinely appreciated, loved
and wanted is what the consumer is looking for.
This feeling goes far beyond any perfect
service or awesome massage. Of prime
importance is how the customer feels in
your business, whether the feeling is one of
belonging or a sense of family, want and need;
this is followed by how good the service was.
5It’s all about the feeling
Find your cause and drive it4
Consumers are loyal to a cause so, instead of
spending a huge amount of money building
your brand, rather spend it supporting a
cause that will attract the attention of the
target market.
Be sure to support and drive events
around causes that are part of our industry.
For example, reduce your carbon footprint
and include customers in the drive, and give
rewards to those who support the cause with
you. Breast cancer and world health days are
important causes to support and drive, as is
‘Say Yes to Wellness Day’.
TOP 10 trends for 2016
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
As a spa-owner and/or manager, you should look at any way in which your business can take advantage of these trends and find a way to capitalise on the trend in order to build loyalty for the future.
10
This is all about how ‘well’ your team is. If your
team is well in terms of stress management and
healthy lifestyle, together with fitness, vitality and
wellness solutions, the staff absenteeism rate will
drop and the efficiency rate will increase.
Total body and mind wellness goes a long way
to delivering an efficient and productive team.
6
Return on investment (ROI) is of utmost
importance to both consumer and spa
owner. Both parties want to see the best
possible outcome for their investment.
From a small and quick service,
such as a pedicure, to a more specific
service, like facial peeling, ensure return
on investment is positive. Again, only
research and trials can guide you in the
right direction. Don’t get misled by false
advertising.
9
Workplace efficiency
7If you have a treatment that is revolutionary in
terms of skin solutions, such as pigmentation
or fine lines and wrinkles, make sure you under-
promise and over-deliver. There is nothing worse
than a consumer who expects a specific result
because it is promised and receives something
totally different.
To have a happy and loyal customer, make
sure their expectations are fully met and over-
exceeded with your services. Create needs and
deliver the solutions.
Over-promise, under-deliver
ROI
Building community
Look out for non-surgical anti-ageing treatments and
carefully research them. Take care not to get sucked
into the latest trends that are not real solutions. Find the
solutions that your clients are looking for. Measure and
track them and then be sure that they tell the rest of the
market place. Consumers are looking for quicker results
and less downtime.
There is a lot out there, so research, ask and try out
all the treatments before you decide on selecting any of
them for your spa.
spa focus
26
Non-surgical solutions to stay younger longer 8
Find ways to build community with wellness. The trend of
keeping communities closer together is gaining momentum.
Communities that include wellness and spa will feature this
coming year and grow stronger and stronger going forward.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Other trendsThe aforementioned are the strongest 10
trends for the South African market for 2016,
but I want to touch on a few trends that
started last year and are gaining momentum
and should not be ignored this year.
The menu-with-an-add-on culture is huge
in any industry. Starting with a basic service
and adding on smaller and more focused
services to improve the impact is really
important.
I would suggest a really simple service
menu with only a few services and then a
range of add-ons for the guest to choose
from. These add-on services need to be
promoted by the therapist and the staff
member taking bookings. This premise
works a bit like a basic cheese and tomato
pizza before all the toppings get added.
The toppings are the additional or add-on
services.
Lastly, I want to touch on the massage
service at spas. Massage is by far the most
popular service in the industry, yet many
consumers complain about the quality of
the massage received at many spas.
This year I would focus on improving
the delivery of the massage treatment and
ensuring that the guest is blown away by the
quality of the service, as well as the smaller
elements added to the massage to make it
more impactful. Take time with your team
to review the massage service and work
together to make it amazing. For example,
make the customer stretch before and after
the massage, or play specific music to start
the treatment, etc.
Your business will do as well as you want
it to this year, so get focused, get passionate
and get planning for the best year yet. PB
27 spa focus
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on [email protected] for more information.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
28
Situated in the heart of
the Cradle of Humankind
within Glenburn Lodge,
Glenburn Spa opened
a decade ago and was
independently managed by Claudia
de Kock.
Christa Badenhorst, Group
Marketing & PR – Guvon Hotels & Spas,
continues the story: “Glenburn Lodge
provided the venue, décor, marketing
and hotel infrastructure to back up
the spa, while Claudia took care of
the daily running of the spa with great
success.
“Four years ago, Guvon Hotels
bought the remaining share of the
spa and it became fully owned by
Glenburn Lodge. With Glenburn’s
25th anniversary and the spa’s 10th
Leon Bosch (operations director, Guvon
Hotels); Nigel Peel, (GM Glenburn
Lodge); Kosie Pansegrouw (MD Guvon
Hotels) and Geraldine Veldman (spa
manager)
In addition to celebrating its 10th birthday on 20 October last year and changing its name to Chicama spa, the Glenburn spa in Muldersdrift has opened its own conference venue, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
birthday, it was only natural to take
the next step and merge the two
identities. The Glenburn Spa name
will be phased out over an extended
period to ensure that we don’t alienate
our loyal customers. Management, spa
facilities and treatments, as well as
quality of service, all remain exactly
the same. Thus far there has only been
a logo update.”
She notes that the spa has been
fortunate enough to have built up
long and lasting relationships with its
suppliers. “Most of them have become
friends over the years. The Matsimela
Home Spa and TheraVine brands have
been with us since day one.”
A ‘soft refurbishment’ of the spa
was undertaken to coincide with its
10th birthday. As to changes over
the past decade, the spa’s booking
systems have been updated and
operational processes streamlined. In
addition, the gym, which was part of
the spa, fell away as it was not utilised
often enough.
‘The Grapevine’Badenhorst reports that Guvon Hotels
MD Kosie Pansegrouw came up with
the name of ‘The Grapevine’ for the
spa’s conference venue.
“In keeping with the vineyard theme
Glenburn Spa turns 10, changes name
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Care for Compromised Skin
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of the spa, the conference venue has beautiful vineyard
wallpaper, transporting conference delegates to their
own conference winelands during their meeting,” she
explains. “We introduced ‘The Grapevine’ to target
conference groups who want to include wellness in
their business meetings. ‘The Grapevine’ has its own
private entrance at the
side of the spa.”
Guests can book a half-
day ‘serious’ conference
and then move over to
the spa for treatments, or
the other way around.
“The fun option is to
make a day out of it –
to have breakfast in the
spa, go for a treatment,
then keep your robes
on to move to ‘The
Grapevine’ for your first
strategy session,” states
Badenhorst.
Hydro richnessGlenburn Spa has several hydro facilities for guests
to choose from, namely a jacuzzi, two hydrobaths, an
indoor pool and a steam room/rasul chamber.
“Glenburn Spa is very popular with couples and the
steam room, jacuzzi and hydrobaths particularly lend
themselves to quality together time. Our ‘Togetherness
Delight’ package, which includes the rasul chamber and
jacuzzi, is particularly popular,” comments Badenhorst.
The spa’s signature treatment is the Red Wine
Sachet Massage & Merlot Hydrotherapy Spa Bath. A
warm infusion of herbs, minerals and red wine is used
to create cell renewal through the guest’s skin. Every
sachet contains polyphenols, which slow the damaging
cell oxidation process. After the massage, guests enjoy
a Merlot hydrotherapy spa bath to complete their anti-
aging treatment.
Spa manager Geraldine Veldman reports that she
has between 25 and 30 regular local clients going back
as far as five to 10 years. “The Aromavine Anti-wrinkle
Facial is very popular amongst the locals, who tend
to make use of the Tuesday promotion, where a 30%
discount is offered for treatments over R500,” says
Veldman.PB
SPA AT A GLANCEOwner: Guvon Hotels
Size: 345 square metres
Hydro facilities: Jacuzzi, two hydrobaths, indoor pool, steam room/rasul chamber
Number of treatment rooms: 8
Number of full-time therapists: 3
Brands: Matsimela Home Spa, TheraVine, Morgan Taylor, Spa Indulgence
about it
Let’s talk
2016staff | marketing | eco sustainability | sales
customer service | revenue management
2016
on: 30 & 31 August
at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand
more info: www.probeauty.co.za
The International Spa Convention is Africa’s leading information exchange opportunity for all those working in the spa and salon industry. Don’t miss out, the future
of your business could depend on it!
BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASSCheck the website for online bookings and benefits: www.professionalbeauty.co.za
Who should attend:• Spaownersanddirectors
•Spamanagers,seniortherapistsandother key staff, eg. operations and accounts
•Healthandfitnessoperators
•Hoteliersandresortplanners
•Investors
•Architectsandconsultants
•Localandnationalgovernmentagencies
Delegates will be able to:
• Takehomepracticalideastoimmediately improve their spa operation
• Worktowardsasharedvisionbenefiting the industry and its clients
• Networkwithleadingspaandhotel professionals
• Shapeideasandinnovationsthatwill enable the industry and your business to prosper
• Customer serviCe:From first contact to feedback: Learning
what your spa clients really want.
Speakers will present their views on those issues which go to the heart of the spa industry and address live issues facing spa business development.
Let’s talkabout it...
• Great staff: Advice on how to put together
and retain a terrific team.
• marketinG maGiC:Learn about the essentials of an effective advert, the power of copywriting, and the impact of social media
and mobile marketing.
• eCo-sustainability:Ethical, sustainable and eco-friendly
practices for your spa
sales traininG
Workshop:Ensuring real results
• revenue manaGement:Operational and strategic principles
for financial success
spa convention ad.indd 2-3 2016/01/22 1:11 PM
about it
Let’s talk
2016staff | marketing | eco sustainability | sales
customer service | revenue management
2016
on: 30 & 31 August
at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand
more info: www.probeauty.co.za
The International Spa Convention is Africa’s leading information exchange opportunity for all those working in the spa and salon industry. Don’t miss out, the future
of your business could depend on it!
BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASSCheck the website for online bookings and benefits: www.professionalbeauty.co.za
Who should attend:• Spaownersanddirectors
•Spamanagers,seniortherapistsandother key staff, eg. operations and accounts
•Healthandfitnessoperators
•Hoteliersandresortplanners
•Investors
•Architectsandconsultants
•Localandnationalgovernmentagencies
Delegates will be able to:
• Takehomepracticalideastoimmediately improve their spa operation
• Worktowardsasharedvisionbenefiting the industry and its clients
• Networkwithleadingspaandhotel professionals
• Shapeideasandinnovationsthatwill enable the industry and your business to prosper
• Customer serviCe:From first contact to feedback: Learning
what your spa clients really want.
Speakers will present their views on those issues which go to the heart of the spa industry and address live issues facing spa business development.
Let’s talkabout it...
• Great staff: Advice on how to put together
and retain a terrific team.
• marketinG maGiC:Learn about the essentials of an effective advert, the power of copywriting, and the impact of social media
and mobile marketing.
• eCo-sustainability:Ethical, sustainable and eco-friendly
practices for your spa
sales traininG
Workshop:Ensuring real results
• revenue manaGement:Operational and strategic principles
for financial success
spa convention ad.indd 2-3 2016/01/22 1:11 PM
With DMK Skin Revision for stretch marks.
BEFORE AFTER
Before and after images demonstrate the effects of DMK stretch mark treatments.
www.dmkskincare.co.za
DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES
+27 (0) 11 262 6120DMKSouthAfrica
Stretch marks most commonly appear after weight loss/gain or pregnancy, due to the skin being stretched beyond its capacity. This causes the skin to tear and form a scar.
DMK professional treatments effectively assist in remod-elling the scarred tissue with a specialised formula that dissolves and softens the damaged tissue topically. DMK then rebuilds the skin with its signature enzyme therapy to restore the skin’s tissue back to a healthy state.
The DMK difference is in the way the treatments and for-mulations are delivered, rather than working on the surface
of the skin. DMK uses a Transdermal delivery system that penetrates through the surface of the skin, allowing vital nutrients to reach new skin cells.
The DMK concept is based on science and the natural processes of the skin. By understanding how a condition is caused, DMK can then provide a remedial program that effectively works to revise this unwanted condition.
Similar to a personal trainer for your body, a DMK technician will take you through all the steps involved and most impor-tantly how you can achieve a life long solution.
To achieve a fantastic result at the skin surface you must fi rst regenerate the cellular structure of the skin.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
33 rosacea
Rosacea reality
out capillaries in the skin that have
become pinched or congested at their
branch connections.
Cases not treatable by a beauty therapistThere is one symptom called
Rhinophyma that requires medical
attention – the nose is grossly swollen,
deep red and sometimes has actual
fissures in the skin and swollen veins.
Another symptom called
B-conjunctivitis should be avoided
as it deals with the eye tissue, thus
making any topical beauty therapy
treatment a risky option.
Can it be cured?Controlled remission of rosacea is a
preferable term to ‘cure’. Using the
‘cure’ word to a client suggests that
all problems will be sorted out forever,
which is totally unrealistic.
It’s vital to counsel a rosacea client
about the many irregular factors that
go into treatments that may determine
the outcome, such as genetic, lifestyle,
age and any mental attitudes about
their condition.
I believe that the root cause of
rosacea is the Demodex mite, a tiny
parasite living in the sebaceous glands.
Chronic conditions either are viral or
parasitic, not bacterial, bacteria being
easy to eliminate. The fact that we can
clear up rosacea with alkaline washes
and aggressive (rather than calming)
treatments has convinced me of this
reality. PB
Rosacea has probably been one of the most misdiagnosed and misunderstood skin disorders in the history of the human race, writes Danné Montague-King.
The symptoms of rosacea
are so variable that many
people have been treated
for it when they were in
fact suffering from some
other skin disorder. In fact, the term
acne rosacea was a common medical
diagnosis a few years ago and is no
longer considered a valid disorder
under that name.
Most severe skin disorders instil
fear into beauty therapists, who have
been taught to refer the client to a
dermatologist immediately. Rosacea
does not fall into this category. There
has been as much success in treating
various symptoms of rosacea by
advanced beauty therapists as there
has been by physicians.
TheoriesSeveral researchers have theorised
that rosacea is brought on by a species
of mite, the Demodex Follicuorum, (a
microscopic mite) or Helicobacter
Pylori (a type of bacteria).
Other skin experts claim facial
erythema is due to oedema, while
others say rosacea is pharmalogic
(such as in response to topical steroid
use). There is evidence that harsh
wind, sun exposure and dietary factors
exacerbate rosacea.
The therapist must be aware
that certain prescription drugs for
problems not related to rosacea
may cause flushing and redness.
Vasodilator drugs to watch out for can
include Griseofulvin, Chlorpropamide
and Antabuse.
Couperose skinThe correct medical term for
couperose is Telangiectasia and
therapists have for many years used
diathermy, schlerotherapy and other
methods to treat it. Now, there is a
nicotinic acid crème that will flush
Basic symptoms of rosacea Flushing (treatable by therapists);
Erythema (treatable by therapists);
Papules (treatable by therapists);
Pustules (treatable by therapists);
Oedema (treatable by therapists
unless chronic);
Rhinophyma (medical treatment only);
B/Conjunctivitis (medical treatment
only);
kerstitis (treatable by therapists unless
drug-related);
Comedones (treatable by therapists);
Scarring (treatable by therapists
trained in scar revision techniques).
Danné Montague-King, founder of the DMK skincare empire, has won international recognition and endorsement by the medical profession for pioneering a skin rejuvenation system that recognises the importance of offering skin cells a chemistry they recognise.
Pic
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urce
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p://
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Before
After
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
34 salon focus
The clinic’s name, Dr
Gobac Skin Body
Apothecary, relates to
the dispensing service
of the brand’s bespoke
remedies, whereby products are
mixed on-site according to the
client’s specific requirements and
concerns.
So says the brand’s founder,
Dr Robert Gobac, who adds that
the word ‘apothecary’ alludes to a
holistic range of treatments, as well
as to what he believes is a completely
new concept offered in a medi-salon
environment.
“We understand that each person is
unique, and, as such, we have created
an environment where all needs can
be met,” explains Gobac. “All bespoke
therapies and products are exclusive
to our salon.”
He notes that the company has
identified a gap in the market for a more
medically defined, yet non-aggressive
beauty salon concept. “Opening our
own clinic was always a part of the
brand strategy, but about three years
ago we made a firm decision that this
was what we wanted to do. Since then
we have been working on expanding
our professional and retail range of
products and treatments.”
Gobac plans to open more
strategically positioned clinics and is
already evaluating the next locations.
Unisex appealSomatologist Elzanne Nieuwenhuis is
the salon’s manager and previously
worked with Dr Gobac products for
many years at her own salon.
“We opened Dr Gobac Skin Body
Apothecary on 1 August 2015 and our
bookings have really escalated since
then. Being situated within an office
park (Summit Square on School Road
in Morningside) has helped to build
our client base, I believe.
“In terms of the salon’s décor, we
went for muted and unisex colours
to create a very quiet, calming and
exclusive atmosphere that appeals
to both men and women.
“The salon has a couple’s room
and two other treatment rooms.
Our reception area is devoted to
nail treatments – manis & pedis,
gel and tips. We use only Ice Box
colors, the nail brand created by Dr
Gobac,” says Nieuwenhuis.
TreatmentsSpecialised facial treatments and
body care treatments in the salon
have been developed to address a
number of skin concerns.
“We specialise in anti-ageing
treatments,” continues Gobac. “This
was always an important focus of the
brand.
“Recently, we expanded our
treatment services to include cellulite,
stretch marks, slimming and detoxing
treatments. Brand-new actives and
superior technology are available to
us and we strive to translate these
resources in the most effective and
accessible ways. It is very exciting to
see the results that can be achieved
after only a few sessions.” PB
The return of the ‘apothecary’Cosmeceutical brand Dr Gobac has launched its first-ever specialised treatment clinic, in Morningside, Johannesburg, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
The return of the ‘apothecary’
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Dark and really, really lovelyWith the continued rise of the black middle class in South Africa, black clientele of salons and spas is steadily on the increase, requiring therapists to have specialised knowledge of how to treat African skin, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
There are several differences
between Caucasian and
African skins that are
important for the therapist
to know in order to treat
them successfully and to prescribe the
correct home care regime.
According to Jacqui Faucitt
of RégimA, African skin is thicker
than white skin due to the stratum corneum having more layers and a
more compact dermis, with larger,
more numerous fibroblasts, which can
lead to abnormal scarring and keloid
formation.
Says Faucitt: “This must be a major
consideration when choosing in-
salon treatments and recommending
home care so that aggressive
treatments are avoided. In addition,
black skins contain less glutathione,
which is known to inhibit epidermal
melanogenesis and leads to darker
skin. Melanocytes in black skin have
10 times more tyrosinase activity,
producing 10 times more melanin with
slower melanin degradation.
“When assessing an African skin,
if pigmentation occurs in the upper
superficial layers of skin, the patches
are a darker shade of brown, but, if
pigmentation is in the deeper layers,
an ashy grey discoloration appears.
“Prevention and treatment of
pigmentation, scarring (including
acne) and any inflammatory
conditions are at the top of the list
for African skins and most types of
reaction inevitably and quickly result
in darkened, scarred areas.”
‘Oily’ concernsSonette Donker of the Skin iD Clinic
in Sandton notes that most of her
black patients suffer from very oily
skin and are prone to breakouts and
hyperpigmentation.
“A dark skin scars very quickly, so
extractions must be performed with
exceptional care and no inflamed
lesions must be extracted, only
non-inflamed lesions. African skin
is also prone to post-inflammatory
hyperpigmentation, so inflammation
during the treatment must be
controlled. It is vital not to over-
stimulate this type of skin,” she
explains.
Donker’s first course of action is to
balance out excess oil production with
oil-absorbing clays like Bentonite, and
to increase the hydration of the skin.
“So often people with oilier
skin types strip and dry out their
skins, leading to the skin producing
more oil,” she continues. “I prefer
using hyaluronic acid and aloe vera
to increase hydration in the skin.
Balancing the skin’s oil production will
automatically keep breakouts at bay.
“A good pH-balanced cleanser is
vital, as well as is sun protection for
daily use. I like a cleanser that contains
exfoliating ingredients, which offer the
user cleansing and exfoliation in one
easy step.”
She advises her black clients to use
a cleanser containing glycolic acid to
remove the dead skin cells in a gentle
manner. Such cleansers also help to
keep the skin clear and maintain an
even skin colour.
“I would recommend using a clay
mask containing glycolic acid at home
not more than once a week, for two
minutes at a time, as the mask acts
like a mini-peel. This will remove
36 african skin
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
R
dead skin cells, absorb excess oil and
even out hyperpigmentation. A light
moisturiser containing hyaluronic acid
to hydrate the skin without increasing
the oil production is needed for the
day. For night time I prescribe an
active product that focuses on the
client’s main concern,” says Donker.
Uneven skin toneOver the past 20 years Ayesha
Rajah of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa in
Johannesburg has worked on a wide
range of African skins.
“Some of the skin conditions I have
come across include an uneven skin
tone predominantly localised to the
around the mouth and forehead area,”
says Rajah. “I’ve noticed that dark skin
blemishes very easily primarily due
to post-inflammatory pigmentation,
as the skin tends go very ashen or
grey in appearance when the client is
stressed, ill or on medication such as
Roactutane.
“Due to having more sebaceous
glands, I’ve found that African
clients put huge focus on drying out
their skin, which results in the skin
becoming severely dehydrated with a
dull appearance. This constant over-
drying also creates an environment
for comedones and further skin
complications.”
Vitamin AEnviron Skin Care founder and
pioneering Cape Town-based plastic
surgeon Dr Des Fernandes is of the
opinion that skincare professionals
would do their clients a great disservice
if they ignored the real differences
between those clients with Fitzpatrick
Type V or VI skin and treated them as
though they have Type I, II or Type III
skin.
“African skin is sensitive and needs
to be treated as gently as possible as
problems may leave permanent marks.
It’s true that darker skins that seem
dry are probably deficient in Vitamin
A. Dry skin shows up as grey flakes on
the skin and tends to be associated
with Vitamin A deficiency. You can be
sure that this is a deficiency of Vitamin
A if you notice follicular hyperkeratosis
on the arms or legs. These are dry
plugs of keratin surrounding the hairs
that look as though they could be
easily removed – but aren’t.”
He recommends treating such skin
with mild doses of Vitamin A as in
Environ’s Derma Lac Lotion, combined
with Environ’s Vitamin A, C & E Body
Oil.
“Dark skin is more likely than
light skin to make keloid scars, or
to produce hypertrophic (proud)
scars,” comments Fernandes. “The
37 african skin
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
african skin
hypertrophic scar may flatten in
time but will be very noticeable.
The use of Environ’s Intensive
Colostrum Gel is recommended
to promote healing. Intensive
Colostrum Gel is a regenerative,
skin energiser which supports
the production of healthy
collagen, elastin and growth
factors. It contains bovine
colostrum, which calms,
soothes and boosts distressed,
fragile skin.”
Fernandes warns against
harsh exfoliation, suggesting
that African clients opt for
micro exfoliation instead. Two
Environ products act as ultra-fine
exfoliants – the Original Balancing
Masque as well as the B-Active
Sebumasque. Both also improve
hydration and remove excess oils from
the surface of the skin.
“We need to feed the skin with
nutrients that thicken the skin, as
thicker skin is healthier skin. Nothing
approaches Vitamin A in its ability
to thicken skin – especially in the
gentlest form of retinyl palmitate.
Environ’s face serums such as the
C-Quence serums from the Ionzyme
range, the Retinol serum from the
Intensive range, and Sebugel A from
the B Active range, contain a tolerable
yet effective, fat-soluble version of
Vitamin A retinyl palmitate, in addition
to highly effective forms of Vitamins
C and E, peptides, antioxidants, and
growth factors as a base,” he states.
Sun threatFernandes points out that the African
epidermis is very sensitive to solar
damage. UVB rays in particular affect
the epidermis in dark skins.
“Environ RAD SPF 15 is a
revolutionary sunscreen containing
sun filters and sun reflectors that
protect skin from both UVA and UVB
irradiation. RAD also contains a free
radical scavenging system consisting
of antioxidant vitamins to combat the
effects of the sun and pollution on the
skin,” he says.
Faucitt does not believe that
black skins require higher sun
protection factors than Caucasian
skin. “Sometimes a high SPF on
black skin blocks the pores and
results in irritation with subsequent
pigmentation. It is also important not
to have too high an SPF, as black skins
are usually deficient in Vitamin D3.”
Interestingly, Rajah notes that her
black clients are often apprehensive
about using sunscreen, due to the
greasiness and whitening finish many
sunscreen products have.
PigmentationRégimA’s Zone Pigment Perfector is
a new anti-pigmentation treatment
that draws on the individual strengths
of multiple skin-lightening actives.
Lumiskin and the latest in proprietary
skin-lightening actives work in
synergy, providing a cumulative effect
with a visible and significant decrease
in pigmentation. With Sophora Root
extract, the enhanced lightening action
of black tea extract, and the latest in
stabilised Vitamin C technology, this
product combines the most cutting-
edge actives for unparalleled skin
lightening power. Added to this, Kiwi
Fruit Extract has been found to be
particularly beneficial for under-eye
dark circles.
“Due to having more sebaceous glands, I’ve
found that African clients put huge focus on drying
out their skin, which results in the skin becoming severely
dehydrated.”
Ayesha Rajah
38
39
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
african skin
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“Because African skins are more prone to keloid
scarring it is important that a product provides
anti-glycation to prevent hardening of elastin and
collagen fibres. This is an added benefit of black tea
extract,” explains Faucitt.
She notes that hypertrophic and keloid scarring
is much more prevalent in black and Asian females
between the ages of 10 and 20 years old. Because of
this it is extremely important to help prevent scarring
where possible. Keloid scars rarely regress naturally
and are difficult to treat.
Scar Repair, also from RégimA, is a Super Strength
Serum which would be recommended for prevention
and treatment of keloid scarring, helping active acne
and improving acne scarring. The product further
acts on older hypertrophic and keloid scars (ugly,
raised scars), promoting their maturation, helping
flatten, reducing pain and improving function. Faucitt
recommends combining Scar Repair Forté with the
RégimA Zone Power Peel treatments.
‘Brighten’ upThe experts at Thalgo point out that,
in addition to sun exposure and sun
damage, pigmentation can also be
caused in darker skins by pregnancy,
hormone treatments, certain
medications and hypothyroidism.
They recommend Thalgo’s
Brightening Rejuvenating Range, which
includes Exfoliating Lotion; Unizones
Clearing Corrector (for localised
lightening for stubborn pigmentation
and evening out the complexion);
Brightening Regulating Essence;
Smoothing Brightening Fluid (lightens,
stimulates collagen production and
acts during and after melanogenesis);
Melt-In Smoothing Brightening Cream
(to add luminosity to the skin); and
Age-Defence Sunscreen Cream. R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
african skin
40
HyperpigmentationMany darker Fitzpatrick skin types
struggle with the problem of
hyperpigmentation, especially post-
inflammatory hyperpigmentation,
according to Ursula Hunt of DermaFix.
“Products focused on skin-
brightening, such as DermaFix
MelanoDerm and MD Prescriptives
SkinLite, greatly assist to lighten and
brighten the overall appearance of
the skin, while DermaFix Vitamin C
Serum plays a supportive role in skin
brightening as it works against the
inflammatory triggers that stimulate
post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
production.
“Further inclusion of enzymes via
DermaFix DermaPolish and DermaFix
DermaBright Mandelic Acid will assist
to revive a dull, ashy-looking skin type
by stimulating a cell renewal response.
Sun Protection should always play a key
role in any skincare routine as it assists
to protect against further darkening of
the skin. DermaFix DermaShield SPF
50 is SANS 1557:2013 approved for
its ability to provide UVA/UVB high
protection,” explains Hunt.
From the ‘vine’ According to Lisa Smit, creator and
CEO of L.S. Enterprises, TheraVine
produces innovative skincare
products formulated to address skin
concerns related to pigmentation,
while promoting luminous, even
skin tone and effectively controlling
pigmentation caused by the natural
ageing process, sun damage,
excessive UV exposure and hormonal
imbalances.
Says Smit: “MelanoVine
addresses pigmentation in a three-
step approach by making use of two
cutting-edge peptides, five active
ingredients comprising advanced
hydrating systems and anti-oxidant
phyto-chemistry, as well as with the
nano-encapsulation technology of a
revolutionary bilayer liposome. This
combination leaves the skin brighter,
younger and clearer.
“Extensive research has
gone into mastering the
formulation of the cutting-edge
Chromabright (Dimethylmethoxy
ChromanylPalmitate) peptide
into the six products that make up
MelanoVine, which are specifically
aimed at diminishing dark spots,
lightening and brightening the
complexion, protecting the skin
against further damage and dark
spots, while also minimising the
appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles.”
Vitamin CFor African skin, DMK recommends
Fibromax C, a micro-encapsulated
20% liquid to powder serum. Previously
known as Fibreblast C, it contains
ethyl ascorbic acid, the purest form of
Vitamin C and the most bioavailable.
A strong antioxidant and free radical
scavenger, the product accelerates
collagen production. Liquid droplets
are encapsulated in silica particles to
form a dry, free-flowing liquid powder,
which remains stable under ordinary
temperature or pressure.
Silica Silylate is one of the most
abundant elements in nature; it is
present in almost all plants and in
almost every organ of the body and
is thus essential for healthy skin.
It has excellent barrier properties
and protects against denaturing by
oxidation and UV attack.
light-based treatmentsComfort and safety are two of the
most important principles with a light-
based skin treatment, in particular,
in the treatment of darker skin types
(Types IV to VI).
Says Naomi Olivier of Hitech
Lasers: “Fortunately, advances in the
41 african skin
past decade have given rise to a range
of devices that can be safely used on
ethnic skin. Longer wavelength lasers
such as the 810 Diode and 1064nm
Nd:YAG and fractional radiofrequency
devices have all been used safely
for hair removal, pigmentary
abnormalities, resurfacing and skin
tightening in ethnic skin, respectively.
“Because skin of colour is more
prone to hyperpigmentation,
discoloration and scarring, light-based
skin rejuvenation treatments on the
coloured skin should be evaluated
thoroughly.
“One of the most exciting advances
is the fractional radio frequency
treatments offered on the multi-
technology platform of the Viora V30.”
In ‘harmony’Best Lasers recommends the Alma
Lasers Harmony Lite/ XL/ XL Pro to
treat pigmentation on darker skin
types.
“Thanks to Alma Lasers’
trademarked In-Motion technology,
the operator can move the handpiece
freely over the skin. By exposing a
pigmented lesion to short pulses of
visible light, the temperature in the
highly concentrated melanin can be
raised sharply, enough to shatter the
cells containing the melanin. The body
then replaces these cells with new
cells generated by the surrounding
untreated area,” says Andrew Best. PB
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
42 professional beauty cape town 2016
Acu-sol (Dermacare) will
showcase a fantastic
range of Italian waxes
that are new to
South Africa.
Best Lasers helps
its clients to take
their businesses
to the next level
both financially
and technologically
by adding Alma Lasers to
their practice. The company
doesn’t just sell laser
systems – it provides
extensive training to clients,
as well as technical support
with local and international
backing. Best Lasers registers
the client with the Department
of Health & Safety and provides
essential information regarding all
the necessary precautions operators
must take when using a laser. Clients
can be assured that all avenues are
covered when buying a laser through
Best Lasers.
BTL Industries designs and
manufactures non-surgical machines
for the aesthetic medicine sector
that represent the best devices for
fat-dissolving, skin-tightening, anti-
cellulite, anti-wrinkle, lymph drainage
and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light)
treatments.
Calgel invites visitors
to its stand to have
Calgel applied to
one of their nails
and to see the
brand’s live nail art
demonstrations.
Creative Glamour
will launch its first
cream foundation range.
As a show special, visitors
can receive up to 30% discount on
selected items.
Bio-Oil from Evolabs is a specialist
skincare oil that helps improve the
appearance of scars, stretch marks
and uneven skin tone. It is also
effective for ageing and dehydrated
skin. Bio-Oil has won 224 skincare
awards and has become the No.1
selling scar and stretch mark product
in 18 countries since its global launch
in 2002.
Lipidol is a range of six new oils for
daily skincare from the makers of
Bio-Oil. The range includes two wash-
off products, a Cleansing Face Oil
and Cleansing Body Oil, that remove
dirt without stripping the skin’s
natural oily layer, and four leave-
on products, an After Shower Oil,
Sunscreen Oil (SPF 20), Overnight
Face Oil and After Shave Oil, that
Curtain-raiser for Cape Town A brand-new year, a brand-new show – Professional Beauty Cape Town runs from 13 to 14 March at the CTICC and is set to showcase the latest products, devices and services from the exciting world of beauty, nails and medical aesthetics.
Visitors to the Acu-sol
(Dermacare) stand will be introduced to a magnificent range of cold waxes and the one and only
Elastique film wax.
Bio Sculpture Gel will launch the highly anticipated
EVO Gel, which will be available at the show along with many other show
specials.
Visitors can also discover more information about Calgel’s exciting
half-price education programmes in
Cape Town.
of decision makers agree that trade
shows provide the best purchasing
info
91%
Source: www.marketingprofs.com
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
professional beauty cape town 2016
supplement the skin’s oily
layer to help it retain its
moisture.
Healing Earth –
learn about the
benefits of holistic
skincare inspired
by the abundance
of Africa’s natural
healing resources. Explore
everything from Healing
Earth’s new High Performance anti-
ageing facial care range, to its eco-
friendly and educational range of
children’s personal care products.
Generous gifts and exciting lucky
draw prizes will be up for grabs.
Every year, 200m Himalaya products
enter the homes of consumers
around the world. With a range of
over 300 healthcare and personal
care products, including brands
like Liv.52, Cystone, Bonnisan, and
Neem, Himalaya touches the lives
of millions of customers worldwide,
giving them products that help
them lead healthier, enriched lives
through a unique combination
of pharmaceutical expertise and
personal care technology. Himalaya
is a pioneer in the use of modern
science to rediscover, validate and
contemporise Ayurveda principles
into an effective, value for money
head-to-toe product range.
ikhokha allows you to accept
debit and credit cards securely
through your smartphone,
wherever you do business.
Lilian Terry International – creator
of homeopathic aromatherapy
– invites visitors to Stand E6 to
experience the brand’s massage
oil complexes, gels and toners,
wraps and LT FlexyCups, first
hand. The latest massage cup –
the ProCup for Body – will also
be showcased. This is the perfect
cellulite treatment tool. Live
demonstrations will be done on
the stand.
Get high-quality, long-lasting
nail designs and nail decorations
from leading brand Moyou Nails.
Beautiful and artistic designs can
be created at home using Moyou’s
easy to use nail kits and image
plates.
Don’t lose clients due to unanswered
calls. My Appointment’s software
and marketing portal allows clients
to book appointments online any
time, and is linked to the company’s
comprehensive salon management
system.
Nailsforu will offer an easy to remove
LED / UV cured Gel Top Coat applied
over your favourite brand of basecoat
and polish. It promotes a smooth gel-
like effect and improves performance
and longevity. In addition it provides
a protective, hard-wearing, durable
polish overlay. Providing a high-gloss
surface shine, the product is free
of toluene, formaldehyde and DBP
(dibutyl phthalate).
Nouveau Contour is
the industry leader in
permanent and re-constructive make-
up in 26 countries. The Nouveau
Academy now offers South African
clients the best pigments, equipment
and training and advises visitors to
Professional Beauty Cape Town to
beware of imitations.
Generous gifts and exciting lucky draw
prizes will be up for grabs at Healing Earth
Visit iKhokha to find
out how you can get started and
get R100 off.
R
43
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
44 professional beauty cape town 2016
Your nails need a break with Nuvanail.
Repaired nails. Renewed nails.
Nuvanail. Visitors are invited to Stand
C46 to learn more about the brand.
“Pure” Smile is the only 100% Natural
Teeth whitening supplier in Africa
for beauty salons, spas, hair salons
and dentists. Quick: 30min once-off
treatment. Efficient: gain up to nine
shades. Painless: no gum irritation –
no sensitive teeth.
There is always something
new and exciting at Radiant
Healthcare. Service is an
attitude that extends
throughout our
Radiant company.
Distributor of
Syneron, Cocoon
medical, GSD and
Ecleris.
Signature Health – HOCATT™ Ozone
Sauna – beauty, health
and healing all starts
with oxygen. Boasting eight
powerful and scientifically
proven therapies, the Hocatt
Plus Ozone Sauna
chamber provides all
this and so much
more.
Sparkle Cosmetics
(Gelish, Morgan
Taylor and Artistic)
launches Revolution
– the latest in long-
lasting nail colour.
Revolution wears up to
10 days and incorporates a
breakthrough crystal shine, 5-free
formulation, in 56 showstopping
shades.
Studex will
The mascara
revolution.
Enhance your
eyelashes by up to
300% with WOW 3D
Fibre Lashes. These
lashes are made from
100% natural
tree tea fibre
and beeswax.
Requiring only a five-minute
application, the lashes last all
day and can be removed with
facial cleanser and water.
All the products, tools, gels and tips in
the world mean nothing if you’re not
completely comfortable using them.
That’s why customer service at Young
Nails and the relationships they have
with their nail techs are truly the most
important thing for the company. PB
Join the revolution!
Retro Revolution has launched a first in South
Africa, Liquid Edge – Nail Tape. Show visitors are invited to the stand to get a free sample to
and see how easily this product
works.
demonstrate
to salon
owners how
offering a Studex ear-
piercing service can
increase both income
and foot traffic into their
business. Very easy to use
and extremely hygienic, Studex
systems can be used for belly- and
nose-piercing, as well as for ear-
piercing. Studex looks forward to
meeting both new and existing
customers.
Tammy Taylor is the trusted
brand of tens of thousands
salons worldwide. Visitors will
fall in love with the variety and
quality that this brand offers
them. From acrylic, gel polishes,
hard gel to spa ranges. This
will be the brand’s first product
awareness expo in Cape Town.
OFRA Cosmetics will
introduce its famous Long Lasting
Liquid Lipsticks, as well as the OFRA
exceptional skincare and
make-up line.
For more information about Professional Beauty Cape Town,
visit: www.probeauty.co.za.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
45 professional beauty cape town 2016
Medical doctors, aestheticians and
therapists are sure to find many
sessions of interest at the MA
Convention, according to conference
director Karen Ellithorne. “As facial
rejuvenation is a really hot topic globally, we have included
a session called, ‘The 4D Facelift’,” says Ellithorne. “In this
session, plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Dr Nerina
Wilkinson, will talk about how treatment modalities, such
as lipofilling, fillers, threads and fractional resurfacing
lasers, can be successfully combined for natural facial
rejuvenation.
“Lip enhancement will also be a focus at the
convention. Dr Zak Schabort, founder of the nationwide
Cosmetic and Dental Emporium, will reveal why he thinks
that indirect methods of lip enhancement have become
superior in today’s medical aesthetics arena. Dr Schabort
will demonstrate how to restore the attractiveness of
an ageing mouth through the use of minimally invasive
procedures.”
A new technique in eye rejuvenation, called Soft
Surgery, will be unpacked by Dr Marisa Heyns in a
session devoted to non-ablative blephrophlasty. This
new treatment modality involves new and less invasive
aesthetic technologies and techniques that would
otherwise require cosmetic surgery.
“Clinical pharmacist, David Arthur (R.Ph), will present
what is sure to be an intriguing session, on the essential
co-ordinates that need to be in place for mitochondrial
skin repair. David, who was the first pharmacist in South
Africa to be board-certified by the American Academy for
Anti-Ageing and Regenerative Medicine, will also present
another session called, ‘Nuts & Bolts of Stress Management’,
in which he will reveal what physiological steps can be
made to avoid ageing naturally.
“South African skincare legend and founder of Environ,
Dr Des Fernandes, will present a session on retinol and
how it can be used to address many skincare concerns,
including photo-ageing, coarse texture, enlarged pores and
acne scarring,” explains Ellithorne.
Dr Duncan Carmichael of The Anti-Ageing Clinic in
Sea Point will demonstrate how to combine PDO threads
and fillers for a superior result when performing mid-face
volumisation on a client. In another session he will talk on
how to treat menopause with bioidentical hormones, an
alternative to conventional HRT (Hormone Replacement
Therapy).
Other topics and speakers include: Facial and Hand
Rejuvenation (Dr Gerhard van Niekerk); Platelet-Rich
Plasma (Dr Kamlen Pillay); Translational Nutrigenomics (Dr
Yael Joffe); Laser Case Studies (Amy Bowie) and Managing
Vitamin D deficiencies (speaker to be confirmed). PB
To book your seat for the MA Convention visit www.medicalaesthetics.co.za
Please note that the programme is subject to change.
Medical aesthetics in focuswith the theme, ‘Rejuvenate your practice’, the Medical Aesthetics (MA) Convention will run parallel to Professional Beauty Cape Town at the CTICC on 12 and 13 March.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Sensitive probioticsEsse, South Africa’s certified organic, export-ready
brand, has just launched a line formulated specifically for
sensitive, reactive skin types. Incorporating new probiotic
technology that regulates and normalises
sensitive skin, the products contain
mild, certified organic plant ingredients
to ensure an effective skincare routine.
033 212 3506
‘Zoned’-outA new RégimA Zone
product that contains
natural and organic
ingredients, plus high-
tech synthesised nature-
identical actives, is the
super-rich night product,
Zone Age Reversal Night
Complex. Designed to
specifically target the
mechanisms of skin ageing,
it provides protection and
repair from damage caused
by age-related stresses.
011 615 2869
product focus – natural and organic
46
with ‘natural’ products, it is intimated that the ingredients listed are all of natural origin (i.e. from plant or animal sources). ‘Organic’ denotes that the natural ingredient is, further, free from pesticides, synthetics and preservatives. Products claiming an organic status should always bear organic certification from a reputable source.
Pureand simple Fixed up!
DermaFix Argan 100% Organic
is both ECOCERT and NaTrue-
certified, as a 100% pure and
organic form of Argan Oil for
the benefit of skin, hair and nail
protection and moisturisation.
Suitable for all skin types,
including sensitised, eczema
and psoriasis-prone skin, it
protects against moisture loss
and oxidative damage.
0861 28 23 23
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
47 product focus – natural and organic
Garden of EdenNew to South Africa, the Skintopia
range is produced in a traditional
fashion. Using renewable resources,
the products are hand-crafted into a
range of healing and high-vibrational
combinations. All products are
produced in small batches to ensure
product quality, freshness and body
care efficacy.
083 325 5217
Complex complexesThe South African range of
Lilian Terry Homeopathic
Aromatherapy products for
body, face, hair, feet and nails,
is 100% natural and contains no
added preservatives, synthetic
colouring or fragrances, and is
not tested on animals. These
complexes are presented in eye-
catching coloured glass bottles
which are recyclable.
012 361 2606
Ear-candlingHandmade from 100% natural
ingredients, Biosun Traditional Ear
Candles offer a non-invasive therapy
for physical, emotional and mental
rejuvenation. The warm airwaves from
the pure ingredients massage your
auditory canal and increase alpha
brain wave activity, releasing serotonin,
dopamine and endorphins. Ear candles
are ideal for ear problems, headaches,
colds, sinusitis and hay fever.
011 803 5445
Aromatic purityCSpa Aroma Wellness is the new-generation
aroma wellness natural brand based on
aromatherapy purist principles. The fusions of
ancient aromatherapy philosophies combined
with simplistic and modern applications make
this range a high-performance olfactory
experience, with hints of Africa at various
levels.
011 880 3851
Cleanest everThe Mio and Mama Mio ‘‘No Nasties’’ policy is the company’s
assurance that these are the cleanest, most effective skincare
products possible, made and developed in the safest way possible.
Not only are the products free from all harmful ingredients, but they
also actually work on delivering the results they promise.
011 033 0500
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
48 training
When recruiting therapists for spas
and salons, owners/managers need
to look at CVs with international
and national examination
outcomes, for example SAAHSP
(South African), CIDESCO (Swiss) and ITEC (British).
So says Sandy Fuhr of the Beauty Therapy Institute,
who admits that one of the most difficult things to teach
students is attitude and ethics.
“All schools are compelled to teach and instil these
values,” continues Fuhr. “The new generation, however, has
a different way of approaching the workforce, especially in
our industry. We are working with ladies, so pregnancy and
babies are a big problem, as therapists have to work
long hours, including weekends and evenings.”
Eunice Bredenkamp, national education
manager for Nimue Skin Technology, adds: “We
must acknowledge that all accredited institutions
for skincare have a compulsory element that
teaches students about work ethics – both theory
and practical. Beyond that, one cannot rely on the
tertiary institutions to teach work ethics, as it is
something that is already moulded throughout the
12 years of school and before school by their parents.
Once students enter the workforce, it is up to their
employers and associates to reinforce the teachings
speak to spa- and salon-owners around south Africa and many will say that they struggle to find appropriately trained staff who are committed to their jobs. Joanna Sterkowicz investigates.
A solid grounding
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
from college in their early years of
working and ensure that they are
carried through. As a product house,
Nimue is very passionate about
education, ethics and education. It is
for this reason that we have included
‘work ethic’ talks in our educational
syllabus.”
Delusions of grandeurThere are reportedly many students
who have an air of superiority and
who think they are above certain
duties, such as cleaning chores in
the salon.
“Having just been involved in
the opening of salons in the UK,
I am impressed to see therapists
scrubbing floors, washing dishes
and doing all their own cleaning,”
comments Fuhr. “In South Africa we
joke at our colleges that the learners
will get certificates and diplomas in
beauty from their external examiners
and degrees from us in hygiene and
cleaning, however this doesn’t carry
through to the industry.”
RégimA educator Jocelyn Frick
concurs: “Unfortunately the youth
of today are a different species.
Training proves to be challenging,
with the students being disrespectful,
disruptive and unappreciative of your
time and effort.
“While we like to think that the
youth are the future of our industry,
and thus want to supply them with
the RégimA training early in their
careers, I do feel quite concerned, as
presently the majority of the youth
who are studying Beauty Therapy are
unenthusiastic, and motivated only by
money. I’ve found that the third-year
groups are the only ones who have
the maturity to grasp the information
that I am relaying to them.”
entry levelsMore than one educator in the
industry has been heard to say that
the level of students entering beauty
schools is not as high as in previous
years. Fuhr responds: “The entry
level for our schools is still grade
12 for a full qualification outcome.
However, the level 4 (matric) learner
is educated to a lower level than
previously. I believe the Department
of Education has had to lower the
Once students enter the workforce, it is up to their employers and associates to reinforce the teachings from college in their early years of working and ensure that they are carried through.Eunice Bredenkamp
Lecturers at government-subsidised learning institutions get frustrated because they have to
accept students if they comply with just the bare minimum criteria. Jacqueline Ferreira
““
{ {
training
49
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
50 training
standards in an attempt to bring
everyone up to one level.”
Jacqueline Ferreira, a RégimA
educator, elaborates further. “The
quality of the student entering into
the college is not on par with the
students of five years ago. In terms of
a medical skincare brand like RégimA,
we’ve seen that students sometimes
do not grasp the seriousness of
correct prescription, as they do not
see the difference between a cosmetic
and a cosmeceutical. Lecturers at
government-subsidised learning
institutions get frustrated because
they have to accept students if they
comply with just the bare minimum
criteria.”
Bredenkamp stresses that this
topic is a sensitive one. “However, I
can say that you will always have a
mixed bag of students. Today one
still finds really well-educated and
enthusiastic students, as well as
students who assume that beauty is
‘an easy career/course and
just something to do’ and
carry that attitude through in
their execution. I think that if
skincare education in general
is regulated, and entrance
into colleges and institutions
is monitored carefully and
taken more seriously, this
problem can be avoided.”
Ferreira notes that many
employers these days
who focus on relaxation-related
treatments choose to employ entry-
level therapists. “There are a few
skills development programmes
in the industry at present that
favour candidates from previously
disadvantaged backgrounds and assist
them to become massage therapists.
So, the employment of these ladies is
impacting on the employment market
for the more advanced therapists.”
Short vs longUrsula Hunt, managing director of
DermaFix, observes that there is a
strong tendency within the skincare
industry for institutions to offer
students short courses, or modular
training, for 12 days or less, rather than
having them complete a full two- or
three-year diploma course.
“These graduates often lack
knowledge in understanding the
fundamental basics of skin histology
on which the skincare industry is built.
Information is often committed to
short-term memory, rather than being
carried through with the graduates
into the working world.
“Practical experience further
comprises a large part of working
on the skin with confidence. Short
courses often lack the practical
experience leading to a ‘qualification’,
with the result that unconfident
skincare professionals are entering the
working environment,” explains Hunt.
Bredenkamp maintains that it
can be quite confusing for potential
students to know which course to
take.
“There are many training institutions
in South Africa which offer skincare
courses that range from two-month
short courses to three-year
diploma and degree courses.
I would recommend that
one contacts SAAHSP for guidance
on where to take courses that are
endorsed by them.
“With so many different training
institutions, it’s difficult to assess
which are recognised and endorsed
by the SAAHSP, and whether the
accreditation received is sufficient for
the workplace. The fees are incredibly
high for skincare and body therapy
courses. It is for this reason that
one finds different competencies in
therapists at beauty salons and/or
often aesthetic clinics too. Potential
students will question why they need
to do a three-year course if they can
do a two-month crash course and walk
into the same job/work environment?”
According to Fuhr, many colleges
in South Africa have closed down and
there are far less therapists training
these days.
Short course graduates often lack knowledge in understanding the fundamental basics of skin histology on which the skincare industry is built. Ursula Hunt
“ “
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
51 training
“The way of teaching
has also changed in
a big way from the
traditional teaching of
a full qualification, full-
time, to teaching parts
of the full diploma, part-
time. This helps the
working woman as well as the person
who only wants to focus on individual
or single-skill outcomes.
“Speciality salons are opening, for
example brow bars, nail bars, waxing
studios, etc. To find the full, all-
rounder therapist is hard. This is due
to the economic situation – fees are so
high for two or three years of study,
and then they come out and earn a
pittance,” concludes Fuhr.
CurriculaSusan Lockie, another RégimA
educator, thinks that curriculum-wise,
South African training schools are
trying to keep up to date with trends
and industry demands.
“They are also applying
standardisations based on NQF
(National Qualifications Framework)
levels and SAQA (South African
Qualifications Authority) so that
the qualification is recognised at a
standard level to compare to other
qualification across different faculties,
such as commerce, law, etc.
“I think the biggest challenge is
for Beauty Therapy/Somatology to
be recognised within the health/
medical industry, as the Allied Health
Professionals Council of South Africa
has stipulated restrictions across
various modalities of massage and
therapy-related treatments, which
is causing confusion and limiting
the scope of practice for therapists
as they are trying to make more
treatments medical in classification
so that individuals need to register
with them. In my opinion it would
be a great opportunity for therapists
to be recognised under the health
industry and for medical and beauty
to be under an umbrella of health and
wellness, where there are benchmarks
and parameters set for individuals
operating within this arena. This would
also separate the therapists who are
serious about the industry
from those that are just
interested in glamour.
“Due to declining health
globally the health and
wellness industry has been
earmarked as the next
economic growth sector,
generating trillions of rands
and dollars,” notes Lockie.
Brand powerFerreira has been witness
to how positively it can
impact on a brand if young
students are introduced to
it at college level.
“They seem to
remember the ones that
make an ‘impression’ on them and
often opt to work with such brands
once they embark on a career. So,
from a company point of view, it is
imperative to utilise any exposure
one can get or any opportunity to
allow students to make contact with
our product.”
Remuneration Fuhr believes that low salaries
have given the industry a dreadful
reputation. “Spa- and salon-owners
need to make a concerted effort
to start paying their employees
properly, firstly in order to find good
therapists, and, secondly, to change
the image of this industry as being
poor payers. Salon- and
spa-owners need to look
at their remuneration
percentage and adjust
the way they pay. This
will lead to therapists
wanting to stay in the
industry versus leaving
to work in banks or as
secretaries, which pays
double what therapists earn. My
guestimate is that the rate of fall-out
from the industry is as high as 90%.
The only die-hards are the salon/
spa and school-owners, due to their
outlay and commitment. ”
Bredenkamp has found that most
therapists stop working for a boss
approximately three years after
college. “From here the common
trend is to either open a salon or
do treatments from the comfort of
their home; or to follow a different
and more fulfilling career path
altogether.” PB
Therapist recruitment criteria•Didthetherapistreceiveher/hisqualificationthroughanaccreditedandregisteredtertiaryinstitution?
•Isthisinstitutionrecognisedinternationally?•Isthetherapistabletocommunicatewell?•Isthetherapistabletoexplaintoaclientwhatitisthattheyneedfortheirskininvarioussituationsanddotheyknowtheproductthattheyarerecommendingtoclients?
•Insistonapracticalsessiontoshowhowthetherapistwastaughttoconducttreatments.Thiswillalsodemonstratethetherapist’slevelofworkethicandcapabilities.
•Isthetherapistwell-groomed?Criteria by Eunice Bredenkamp (Nimue)
I think the biggest challenge is for Beauty Therapy/Somatology to be recognised within the health/medical industry, as the Allied Health Professionals Council of South Africa has stipulated restrictions across various modalities of massage and therapy-related treatments, which is causing confusion and limiting the scope of practice for therapists.Susan Lockie
The way of teaching has also changed in a big way from the traditional teaching of a full qualification, full-time, to teaching
parts of the full diploma, part-time.Sandy Fuhr
{ {
“
“
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
52
When I started out in the industry
more than 26 years ago, being
a nail technician was a highly
sought-after occupation, one
that you were very proud of and
passionate about. At that time there were very few places
you could go to attend a certified nail technology course.
Beauty schools only offered basic manicure and pedicure
courses and there was the odd distributor who offered
training in nail enhancement application.
Consequently most of us ended up doing a beauty
therapy course followed by a nail technology course
with a specific distributor. These courses encompassed
absolutely everything – from nail anatomy to diseases &
disorders of the skin and nails, hygiene & sanitation, salon
safety, consultation & communication, product chemistry &
knowledge, and retail skills. Only once you had covered
these topics could you progress to learning about the
different nail enhancement systems.
My best-ever learning experience was when I actually
started working in a nail salon and even more so when
I had my own salon. I never stopped learning and have
attended ongoing training and courses throughout my
career. This is what eventually drove me to become an
educator.
The industry has grown incredibly since, with more
and more salons opening, new suppliers bringing in
innovative products and so many more places that offer
training. This has led to an increase in the number of
people attending courses, creating an abundance of nail
technicians and manicurists in our industry. Yet finding
appropriately trained and experienced nail technicians
There are many elements to consider when opening a nail salon, the most important being your staff, who can either make or break your business, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
nails
The perfect nail recruit
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
53
R
nails
can be quite a challenge. Salons want qualified and
experienced nail techs who require minimal training,
and can just get on with the job as quickly as possible.
However, salon-owners need to accept that people
like that are few and far between. They will need to
invest in their techs by training and grooming them.
Techs must be fully au fait with the salon’s protocols,
procedures and products to provide the best possible
service to clients.
The right stuffHow do you, as a salon owner, know whether you are
employing the right person for the job? Staff can be
recruited through specialised employment agencies,
beauty schools, distributors, social media or through
advertising and even referrals. The big concern is
that you just don’t know what you’re going to get, no
matter which route you go. Applicants should produce
a CV with all their personal information, qualifications,
work experience and history, certificates, and possibly
even testimonials. However, even with all the paper
work and credentials, recruiting could turn out to be
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
54 nails
a fruitless exercise if you don’t know
what to look out for.
Do you employ nail techs fresh
out of training or more experienced
techs? Well, both options have their
pros and cons: ‘newbies’ that have
come from a reputable institution are
great, as you can mould them through
further advanced training. They can
also be more inclined to embrace new
techniques far more readily. But, if
they have not been correctly trained,
then problems will arise.
An experienced nail tech, on the
other hand, could start working in
your salon immediately with minimal
training. However, they could have
picked up bad habits during their
career and they might be a little more
stubborn in that they think they know
it all and could be reluctant to learn
further.
Don’t just look at a CV and take what
you read as verbatim, rather check out
the information. Ask the candidate
questions and call people who can
give references. Check whether the
certificates come from a reputable
and professional training institute. Let
the candidate perform the necessary
treatments or services you require to
assess their skills. Allow the candidate
to ask you questions so that they are
clear about your expectations.
InstitutionsIt seems that beauty and nail
technology training institutions are
popping up everywhere; some offer
extensive and accredited training,
while others produce nail techs who
are not able to do the job.
I recently came across a few nail
techs applying for a position; their
certificates looked fine and they
seemed to come from an accredited
training institution. However, when I
asked them some questions and to
perform a nail enhancement service, I
discovered that these candidates had
learnt six different
beauty modules (not
all in nail technology)
in just 12 weeks. Their
certificates were
sadly not even worth
the paper they were
printed on, and they
are definitely going
to have to go back
to the basics and be
retrained. I wonder
how many other nail
techs like this there are in the industry?
So, how do you know whether
a training institution is reputable
and professional? By finding out
whether the institution offers the
correct skills training and whether
they are accredited by an established
accreditation body. Likewise, ask
accreditation bodies for a list of their
accredited training schools.
StandardsLCN marketing manager, Yvette Nel,
an experienced nail technician and
previously an educator, believes the
standard of training has improved
over the years within the brands/
companies that offer training.
“Unfortunately for all the nail
professionals who work hard to make
a living, there are suppliers who sell
to untrained nail technicians. I often
come across ladies who are ‘self-
trained’, and their knowledge of the
correct handling of tools, equipment
and products is non-existent. They
often cause extreme damage to
natural nails, especially their own,”
says Nel.
She believes that the courses that
do not offer instant qualification
provide enough knowledge about
nail technology, relevant to the type
of training. “It is important to have
ongoing assistance from your supplier
and to attend classes regularly. It is a
known fact that when working actively
in a salon daily, nail technicians pick
up ‘bad’ habits, so they should attend
training courses at least every six
months. Educators should also receive
regular training.”
According to Nel, a tech applying
for a job must be able to show original
training certificates and provide
copies thereof. She must perform at
least one set of nails to show her skills.
If an employer is in any doubt about
the technician’s qualification they
should contact the training institute.
Similarly, nail techs should check out
the professional viability of training
institutions prior to signing up. PB
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: [email protected]
•TheoryonNaturalNailStructure & Anatomy, Diseases and Disorders
•NailBrandHistory/Background
•ProductKnowledge
•PracticalApplication
•ProductTechniques–Natural, French Manicure & Colour Application
RECOMMENDED TRAINING
Let the candidate perform the necessary treatments or services you require to assess their skills.
Allow the candidate to ask you questions so that they are clear
about your expectations.
hair news
55
Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news
from the hair front.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
And the winner is…Lewis Thomas from Partners
Hair Design won the Best
Show and the Hairstylist of the
Year awards at the Twincare
International-hosted Hairstylist
of the Year 2016 – South African
Hairdressing Awards held at
Gold Reef City on 6 December.
Other winners were: Skye
Coutinho from Franco’s International (Young Blood category);
Maretha Van Wyk from Pasquale Hairstylists (Avant Garde
category); Rootz Hair Studio (The Team category); and Shawn
Odendaal from Paul James Hairdressing (The Boyz category).
011 305 1600
Inoar treatment centre opens Brazilian brand Inoar Professional recently opened its first-
ever South African treatment centre, in Waterkloof, Pretoria.
Designed as a space for professional training, the centre is
open to consumers for treatments, as well as cut and blow
wave services. All eight of the brand’s therapeutic in-salon
treatments are available.
012 346 1721
Chatting to MusyokaLocal hair brand Blk Sapphire recently hosted its
first-ever seminar in South Africa, in Midrand, with
IAT-certified Kenyan trichologist, Muli Musyoka, who
spoke about different types of hair loss, the different
treatment options and preventative measures.
Sageone was an event sponsor, with assistance from
Dr Barbara Keitumetsi Mashope-Potgieter.
061 479 4377
Awesome coverColor Wow, the winner of an unprecedented
30 beauty industry awards, is an easy-to-apply,
temporary solution to gray roots and dark
regrowth. Proprietary oil-based mineral powder
binds to hair without being sticky or oily. The
water-resistant formula stays in place until
shampooed out and comes in seven versatile
shades.
011 305 1600
• Receive a CPD certificate• Invaluable networking opportunities• Claim your share in a booming market • Gain top tips and advice from industry experts• Discuss the issues and challenges facing by the
industry today • Learn about cutting-edge technologies, new
products and services
Book online at www.medicalaesthetics.co.za
Why should you attend?
CONVENTION 2016
12 and 13 March 2016ICC Cape Town
Rejuvenate your practice
Earn
10CPD Points
Don’t miss the opportunity to gain knowledge about the latest treatments, procedures, treatment tips, marketing and business strategies – all delivered by leading experts in their respective fields.If you are a medical aesthetics practitioner, therapist or you think that aesthetic medicine could benefit your business, then this is a must attend convention.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
57 medical aesthetics trends
Ten years ago, it was only celebrities
and the extremely wealthy who
opted for aesthetic injectable
procedures like toxins and fillers.
More and more we are finding
these treatments commonplace among everyday
people, with acceptance of this form of anti-ageing
intervention having dramatically evolved.
Dr Alek Nikolic, an aesthetic practitioner
based in the Cape, says that he expects to see a
continuation in the growth in the popularity of
toxins worldwide. He feels, however, that this will
be more gradual in the developed countries, but
foresees a big increase in growth in South Africa
in 2016.
“I feel that fillers are underutilised in South
Africa for a number of reasons, including, but not
limited to, unnatural results, lack of proper injecting
technique of some of our local doctors, and
consumer fear. With good training and education
Medical aesthetics trends for 2016Karen ellithorne surveys experts’ opinions on what the medical aesthetics sector has in store for the coming year.
R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
58 medical aesthetics trends
Fat transfers,Taking out fat from the
abdomen and putting
the healthy fat back
into the face or breast
is a growing industry, says Dr Duncan
Carmichael from the Institute of
Healthy Ageing In Cape Town.
“This type of treatment can achieve
results that other treatments can’t
hope to copy. The new generation fat-
removal machines make fat extraction
easy and non-painful. Although you
are advised to take the day off from
work, this is almost becoming a lunch-
time procedure,” he says. “Fat that is
transferred back into the skin also
comes with growth factors and stem
cells.
“After two months the results
do not just plump up the skin but
give a glow to an older skin from
the transferred stem cells. This is a
treatment to watch in 2016,” states
Carmichael.
Surgery, perspective, “The new trend in my
practice is that younger
patients are requesting
facelifts. Patients aged 40 to 45
want to prevent major surgery later
by starting younger,” says Dr Nerina
Wilkinson, plastic surgeon from
Renaissance Body Science Institute in
Cape Town.
“Liquid facelifts have become very
popular for rejuvenating faces. Facial
soft tissues are lost through ageing
and need to be replaced through 3D
volumetric treatments,” continues
Wilkinson. “A conventional facelift
removes flaccid skin to achieve a
tightening around the lower face.
However, rejuvenating the skin
and restructuring the soft tissues,
without pulling the facial tissues,
achieves a more natural youthful
appearance,” says Wilkinson.
She notes that for patients
who require extensive volume
replacement, the trend is to combine
regular hyaluronic gel fillers with a
stem cell facelift of lipostructure,
nano fat grafting and skin tightening
with resurfacing lasers.
“Nano fat injection is the latest
advancement and concept in fat
grafting. Studies have shown that
stem cells in the nano fat solution
are responsible for skin rejuvenation
and are a great advancement in
wrinkle treatment. Nano fat grafting
is used in all surgical face and brow
lifting, crow’s feet, forehead lines,
smokers’ lines and acne scarring
treatments. This technique improves
the outcome of all facial treatments
and facial surgery can now be even
less invasive,” Wilkinson explains.
In some patients, where
volumising techniques are not
sufficient, then sub-dermal threads
can be placed to lift the tissues
in conjunction with the other 3D
treatments to achieve a 4D lift.
“In my opinion, threads should be
used with a volumising treatment
for an optimal result,” advises
Wilkinson.
programmes, the techniques will
improve and with it consumers’
results, thus resulting in a dramatic
increase in dermal filler treatments,”
predicts Nicolic.
Dr Melanie Lambrechts, of The
Centre of Wellness in Sandton, adds:
“Dermal fillers are being used in new
and exciting ways, such as in the
eyebrow and chin areas, as well as the
earlobes. Botulinum toxin injections
are increasing, being used in a gentler
and more subtle way that respects
the fact that natural expression is
desirable.”.
Threads,She goes on to say that
threads and sutures
of many kinds are
being added to these
treatments to augment the lifting and
tightening of areas such as the heavy
jowl and mid-face area.
“My prediction for 2016 is a sharp
upward curve in the use of these
resorbable threads, as more doctors
are trained in their use and see the
boosted effect that can be achieved
with these powerful threads,”
comments Lambrechts.
1. 2.
3.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
59 medical aesthetics trends
Peels,Within the peels sector of
aesthetics there is a trend
to place stronger peels
(TCA medium depth
peels) deeper into the skin by flushing
them down the holes made by derma-
rollers, according to Carmichael.
“In the past this was seen as a bad
idea, as there was a fear that the TCA
peel in the dermis of the skin was too
much of an irritant and would cause
itching and hypersensitivity under
the skin. This fear seems to have
melted away and people are pushing
peels deeper and harder to stimulate
collagen strengthening reactions,” he
says.
“However, on the other hand, there
is a quiet movement that maintains
that less is more if done regularly. They
believe that regular, gentle skin peels
in combination with other stimulating
procedures are not only a pleasant
experience but will slowly rebuild an
ageing skin. I think this is the direction
in which the peel industry should be
moving,” advises Carmichael.
Mesotherapy, Carmichael feels that there
is still room for growth in
the mesotherapy sector,
however it has unfortunately been
flattened by the excitement around
needling techniques of the skin and
PRP (platelet-rich plasma) growth
factor injections.
Ana Engelbrecht from AnaClinical
says the use of pre-mixed, clever
combinations of active ingredients
in a sterile ampoule is the trend for
2016. “This will allow the professional
to save time, achieve better
results and, hopefully, re-ignite the
industry’s interest in the benefits of
mesotherapy.”
Skin needling in, conjunction, with peptides,Says Wilkinson: “When
collagen is broken down,
short segments called peptides are
formed. These ‘mini proteins’ are
active and help restore the skin by
sending a signal to your skin that it
is damaged and needs to make new
collagen.
“Applying peptides directly to
your skin is a way to trick your skin
into thinking that it has lost collagen
recently and needs to make more.
Therefore skin products that contain
signal peptides are effective in
improving the appearance of fine lines
by stimulating the formation of new
collagen and regenerating the skin.
This is a trend in cosmeceuticals that
I expect to see grow in 2016.
“For a supercharged effect of these
collagen-boosting proteins, they can
be applied in conjunction with pen-
needling, a trend that began in 2014
and continues to still be very popular,
for enhanced penetration of actives
and a noticeable more youthful and
brighter skin,” suggests Wilkinson.
Vitamin infusions,High-dose vitamin in-
fusions, as an alternative
to oral supplementation,
have become the rage and have
started to make their way to our local
markets.
“For an infusion, vitamins are added
to a solution containing the same salt
concentration as your blood to aid
absorption and take about 20 to 30
minutes to infuse,” says Dr Kamlen
Pillay of Wembley Clinic in Cape Town.
“The doctor will prescribe a cocktail
of vitamins indicated for the patients’
needs and it seems that people do get
an immediate dramatic effect after
the treatment. However, there are no
proper controlled studies on these
treatments as yet,” he cautions.
On the skincare front, Carmichael
says the main ingredient in vitamin
drips is Glutathione. “This will help
with pigment reduction, but, like any
pigment treatment, the results are not
permanent and you need to consider
how much you are spending and how
much benefit you are getting.”
The clients of 2016 are well informed
and have done their research with
regards to aesthetic treatments. They
are usually visiting an aesthetic clinic
on the referral of a friend or colleague
who has had a treatment with a good
result.
“It’s our role as trained clinician
to put it all together in a package
that makes both financial and
scientific sense, as well as bringing
in the aesthetic and artistic goal of
natural-looking facial enhancement,”
concludes Lambrechts. PB
4.
5.
6.
With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: [email protected]
7.
60 products
Eyes rightPCA Skin has introduced
two Ideal Complex
products: the Revitalising
Eye Gel and the Restorative
Eye Cream. The products
result in the reduced
appearance of fine lines
and wrinkles, puffiness
and dark circles; a 91%
improvement in sagging
upper eyelids; and all the
benefits of retinol without
any irritation. A gel or
cream option is available.
083 299 9800
In the marketOur round-up of newly launched products.
TRAvELLING KITA new MD Prescriptives
Kit has been launched,
comprising travel-
size products that
target ageing, hyper-
pigmentation and
acne-prone skin.
MD Prescriptives
utilises research to
unlock the power of
cosmeceuticals for the
demands of an ageing
population.
0861 28 23 23
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Cold comfortCold Cream Marine from Thalgo provides
intense lipid-replenishing, soothing and
repairing benefits to the skin. It features
a soothing biomimetic lipopeptide to
improve the skin’s tolerance, and organic
White Lupin extract with the ability
to help to reactivate the synthesis of
epidermal lipids.
011 880 3851/0
Intense treatmentOA Skin Intensive’s 30%
Mandelic Acid is an exfoliation
procedure that can be used
throughout the year. As a
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moisturises, restores the skin’s
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D I S P O S A B L E L I N E R
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BLAVA final option 2.pdf 2 3/13/2015 6:37:10 AM
62 products
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Vitamin C powerIdeal for ageing skin, Vitaforce C Cream
from Janssen Cosmetics combines low- and
high-molecular hyaluronic acid to ensure
noticeable skin smoothness and long-lasting
improvement of the moisture content in the
upper layers of the epidermis. Vitamin C
phosphate (a stabilised form of vitamin C)
penetrates deep into the skin tissue.
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SuN-SMARTNimue Skin Technology introduces two
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formulated with a multi-approach strategy to
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resist pro-ageing solar radiations (UV and IR).
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Charcoal to the rescue! Dermalogica’s Charcoal Rescue
Masque, set for a South African
launch in April 2016, detoxifies,
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smoothness.
011 268 0018
Without any needlesBiorestore Needle-Free from
Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals is a
collagen and elastin filler that
activates the gene responsible
for boosting aged fibroblast
activity, Collagen I and III, as
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contains anti-stress peptides
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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
63
Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Brenda MzilaTel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: [email protected]
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Contact - Ashley: 084 708 5701Place Orders - 078 498 7765Email - [email protected]
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
64 saahsp
The relevant learning programmes include:
• NationalDiploma:HealthandSkinTherapy;
• CIDESCODiploma:HealthandSkincareTherapy;
• CIBTACDiploma:HealthandSkincareTherapy; and
• SAAHSPDiploma:HealthandSkincare
Therapy.
The SAAHSP Quality Assurance Partner
(QAP) Delegation Function is defined as
follows:
• Accredits providers for the qualification
58310 National Diploma: Health and
Skincare;
• Monitors the provision by providers of
learning programmes leading to the
qualification;
• Evaluates learner facilitation, assessment
and the moderation of learner
assessments by providers;
• Registers assessors to undertake
assessments for specified qualifications;
• Certifies learners in accordance with
the policy determined by the Minister in
terms of section 26F of the SDA;
• Maintains a comprehensive learner
information management system;
• Uploads learner data to the NLRD
according to the NLRD load
specifications;
• Performs functions consistent with
the NQF Act and the SDA.
Any school wishing to
apply for accreditation
as a training provider
must apply to SAAHSP at [email protected], whereupon the QAP
checklist will be sent to the school.
On confirmation of application
for QAP, an invoice will be sent
to the school and on receipt of
payment, a date will be set aside
for the inspection. The duration of
the site visit can take up to three
hours and a report will then be
compiled by the external verifier.
All successful schools will be
listed as provisionally accredited
until the first external moderation
has been completed for the
applied learning programme.
The school will be accredited
after the first successful external
moderation has been achieved.
SAAHSP QAP will monitor
the provision by providers of
learning programmes leading to
the qualification, and an external
monitoring and moderation
process will be followed. Learner
assessment and facilitation of
moderation of learner assessment
by providers will be evaluated.
Assessors will be appointed
to undertake assessment for
specified qualifications.
Staff offering the above
qualifications must have
completed the following unit
standard and show proof that
their registration is for the
specified qualification. Proof can
be provided in terms of showing
your personal qualification e.g.
completion of the SAAHSP, ITEC,
CIDESCO or Higher Education
Qualification with a Registered
Training Provider.
SAQA US ID
UNIT
STANDARD
TITLE
115753
Conduct
outcomes-based
assessment
Staff will be required to register
with SAAHSP as educators with
proof of the above unit standard
achievement. The fee for 2016 is
R530 if paid before 31/3/16 (normal
rate = R562).
Learners will be certified
in accordance with the policy
determined by the Minister in terms
of section 26F of the SDA. SAAHSP
QAP shall issue a statement of
result with all relevant information
regarding the qualification and
will maintain a comprehensive
learner information management
system. SAAHSP utilises the mBase
database system that will capture
all relevant information required
to keep records as per SAQA
standards.
Learners will register with
SAAHSP annually (2016 fee = R175
per learner). PB
For more information contact Joelette Theron at the SAAHSP office on [email protected]
Cidesco Section South Africa Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
sAAHsP Professional Body has been appointed by the Quality Council for Trade and Occupations (QCTO) to quality assure all schools wishing to offer any or all of the learning programmes listed under the Qualification 58310: National Diploma: Health and skincare.
Quality assurance of schools
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