pw taste 2009

a s t et

� philadelphia weekly’s dining guide �009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com philadelphia weekly’s dining guide �009 �a s t et� philadelphia weekly’s dining guide �009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com philadelphia weekly’s dining guide �009 �a s t et

� philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 www.philadelphiaweekly.com

TASTE2009FEATURES6 Proof PositiveExploring the sudden growth of Philadelphia’s bespoke cocktail culture.

By DAN ELDRIDGE

10 It Takes a Village Garces’ newest venture digs into American roots.

By TARA MURTHA

18 Mac & Cheese Made OverPhiladelphia’s comfort food scene continues to reimagine our favorite feel-good dishes.

By CARRIE ANN

30TH ST. STATION 16

ABBAYE 15

ART INSTITUTE OF PHILA. 21

BEBE BBQ 13

BELGIAN CAFE 17

CAFE FULYA 20

CAFE SPICE 11

CENTER CITY PRETZEL COMPANY 9

CHABAA THAI BISTRO 5

COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS 7

CONSTELLATION BRANDS 3

CREAM & SUGAR 18

DIVAN TURKISH RESTAURANT 20

ELEPHANT & CASTLE 12

GOOD DOG 11

HAPPY ROOSTER 12

JEREMIAH WEED BACK COVER

JIM BEAM 7

JNA CULINARY INSTITUTE 10

KIBITZ ROOM 8

LASER COSMETICS 23

LIBERTIES RESTAURANT & BAR 9

MCFADDEN’S 19

MANGOMOON 5

MISCONDUCT TAVERN 13

MONK’S CAFE 17

NOVI 18

PENN DISTRIBUTORS 6

PHILLY SOFT PRETZEL 13

PINOT 9

PRIVE 9

RESTAURANT SCHOOL 16

REVOLUTION POS 10

SNOCKEY’S OYSTER HOUSE 8

TASTEE D’S 18

TIR NA NOG 14

TWIN SHOPPE 18

VICTORY BREWING CO 2

WINEO 16

WORLD CAFE LIVE 11

ZENTO 7

AD GLOSSARY

CO

VE

R P

HO

TO

BY

MIC

HA

EL

PE

RS

ICO

; C

ON

TE

NT

S P

HO

TO

BY

MIC

HA

EL

PE

RS

ICO

a s t et

CONTENTS

� philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 �a s t et� philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 �a s t et

� philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 �a s t et� philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 �a s t et

a s t et

I

Exploring the sudden growth of Philadelphia’s bespoke cocktail culture.

By Dan Eldridge • Photographs by Michael Persico

PROOF POSITIVE

6 PHILADELPHIA WEEKLY’S DINING GUIDE 2009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com PHILADELPHIA WEEKLY’S DINING GUIDE 2009 7a s t et6 PHILADELPHIA WEEKLY’S DINING GUIDE 2009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com PHILADELPHIA WEEKLY’S DINING GUIDE 2009 7a s t et

CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE CUISINE

“Sushi that, for quality ingredients and exceptional execution, is simply great.”– Craig LaBan

Good from Jan. 3 to March 31, 2010. Can’t be used for catering or combined with any other offers.Good from Jan. 3 to March 31, 2010. Can’t be used for catering or combined with any other offers.Not valid on Friday or Saturday.

138 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia | 215.925.9998 | www.zentocontemporary.com

DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)

a free service of the college of physicians of philadelphiasupport provided by the pew charitable trusts

LIFE IS A BANQUET

FINd hEALTh TIpS TokEEp yoU AT ThE TABLE

Philadelphia Weekly Ad 3.687x10:Layout 1 9/21/2009 2:33 PM Page 1


"the one and only"

dine in take out deliverydine in take out deliveryfull service cateringfull service catering

open 7 daysopen 7 days

215.735.7305www.kibitzroomphila.com1521 Locust Street, Philadelphia, PA

Oyster & Crab House Since 1912

2nd St & Washington Ave 215-339-9578

WWW.SNOCKEYS.COM

Lunch Specials Early BirdClammy HourLobster Specials All you can eat Crab Nights

The Or ig inal

a s t et

n


SPECIALTY SHOP

TEXT PRIVE TO 47201for a free dessert

with your meal

246 Market Street • Philadelphia, PA215.923.8313 • priveoldcity.com

Liberties705 N. second st.

Philadelphia, PA 19123

215.238.0660

U.s. HOteL bAr & GriLL4439 Main st.

Manayunk, PA 19127

215.483.9222

“A classic American saloon”with best of Philly mac & cheese and a menu with everthing from

wings to filet mignon.

$2 PBR12 BeeRs on taP

live music

three 50” plasmas with surround soundmaking it a great place to watch the game

FRee wings FoR all eagles games


Authorized Dealer

i s p r o u d t o s u p p o r t

Please visit us at

www.revolutionPOS.comfor your restaurant technology needs

a s t et2009

3rd Annual

Call for reservations1212 South Broad Street

215-468-8800www.culinaryarts.edu

We DefineCulinary Arts

SojournsIn Tasting

Prepare a multi-course meal with

our highly trained chefs while sam-

pling appropriate wines.

SupportPhiladelphia’s next

top chefswith our daily

dinner prix fixe menu.

Institute of Culinary Arts

a s t et

10 philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 11a s t et10 philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et www.philadelphiaweekly.com philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009 11a s t et

35 S. 2nd Street • Philadelphia • 215-627-6273Mon-Fri. 5-11:30, Sat-Sun 4-10:30

Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-3:00, Sat-Sun 12-3:30

Now order online atwww.cafespicephilly.net

for free delivery and takeout.


Holiday PartyPackages Available

Call for details.

Happy Hour DailyMonday - Friday

5PM - 7PM

Book a private party in our newly renovated back room!

a s t et


To advertise, please contact your account executive or call:


a s t et

n


Refresh.Refresh.at the

Bar & Restaurant

a s t et

Amtrak’s 30th St.

Station

Art Institute

Bebe’s BBQ

Botticelli

Café Spice

Center City Pretzel

Chabaa Thai Bistro

Clear

Cream and Sugar

College of Physicians

Divan

Elephant and Castle

Elle Jewelry

Finley Catering

Good Dog

GrandStand Sports

Happy Rooster

Jim Beam

JNA

Kibitz Room

Las Cazuelos

Liberties

Mangomoon

McFadden’s Ballpark

McFadden’s in Third

Misconduct Tavern

Monk’s Café

Novi

Philly Soft Pretzel

Pinot

Prive

Restarant School

Revolution POS

Snockeys Oyster

House

Springhouse Travel

Swift Half Pub

Tastee D’s

Tavern on Broad

The Abbaye

The Belgian Café

Tir Na Nog

Twin Shoppe Cigars

Unique Home Gifts

WineO

World Café Live

Yelp

Zento Contemporary

Japenese Cuisine


not just a wine bar

Cash Bar… atm on premises

447 poplar street • www.wineophilly.comKitchen open - t, W, th, sun til 11pm • F, sat til 1am

open tuesday thru sunday5pm - 2am

mediterranean – american Cuisine

over 40 Different Wines30 Different Bottled Beers

–and–Full Bar

in the heart of northern Liberties

Food Court & ShopsFeast your eyes on the many delicacies from our food court,

including numerous trans fat free restaurants.

w w w.30thStreetStation.com

Managed by


10th & Tasker Streets • Philadelphia, PA 19147 215.334.0970 • www.twinsmokeshoppe.com

Twin ShoppeEstablished 1950

••

••

4004 Spruce Street • (215) 243-9979

❆

www.creamandsugarsweets.com

“Experience Africa’sDivine Delicacies”

TasTee D’sAfricAn cuisine

18 PHILADELPHIA WEEKLY’S DINING GUIDE 2008 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et

Scores of food writers and bloggers throughout the country began discussing the concept of comfort food as a trend after 9/11, and even more so after the start of the current econom-ic recession. Many of Philadelphia’s chefs and

restaurants have managed to keep themselves ahead of the curve by offering straightforward preparations with a emphasis on locally produced, high-quality ingredients.

After all, as most locals will readily admit, Philly has always had a rich tradition of wholesome, honest foods. In fact, an impressive number of the city’s most popular eateries were serving up their own reimagined comfort foods before anyone—including food journalists, renowned chefs, or envelope-pushing restaurateurs—even consid-ered referring to the fare’s renewed popularity as an actual trend.

A handful of casually chic diners ease into mint green, high-backed bar stools early Friday evening at Jones—Stephen Starr’s popular comfort food restaurant and lounge in Washington Square—and quickly reach for drink menus. Several servers and staff members effortlessly whisk back and forth from the hostess station, checking tables and reservations for the night ahead. The retro-modern decor plays its own role in the evening as the

Continued on page 20

MAC & CHEESE MADE OVER

Philadelphia’s comfort food scene continues to reimagine our favorite

feel-good dishes.

By Carrie Ann • Photograph by Michael Persico


t u r k i s h k i t c h e n918 South 22nd Street (Corner of Carpenter & 22nd Street)

Philadelphia, PA 19146 • 215.545.5790 • 215.545.5792VISIT DIVANTURKISHKITCHEN.COM FOR FURTHER DETAILS

chicken sis kebab$11.25 cash

spinachor lamb dumplings$11.75 cash

chicken adanakebab $10.75 cash

doner kebab$11.50 cash

daily drink specials - glass of wine $4.00 • martinis & cocktails $6.50

bottle of wine $17 • bottle of beer $3.50lunch special only $9.95 - Weekdays only, 12pm-4pm.

2 course meal. divan offers delicious vegetarian items as well

727 S. 2nd STREET PHILADELPHIA, PA 19147 267.909.9937 • CAFEFULYA.COM

2 COURSE LUNCH SPECIAL $8.50 • BEST BAKLAVA IN TOWN MADE FRESH DAILY95% VEGETARIAN DISHES • HOMEMADE TURKISH PASTRIES

All Day Best Breakfast in Town!

The original owners are back!

“Very good”says food critic

craig laban

siblingsilker and Fulya

20 PHILADELPHIA WEEKLY’S DINING GUIDE 2008 www.philadelphiaweekly.coma s t et

sunken dining room, stone pillars, shag carpets, and night-light lit booths combine to provide the ample space with a decidedly cozy feel. Though it’s barely 6 p.m., nearly all of the tables in both the dining area and mezzanine balcony are already full.

As the pace at the restaurant momentarily slows, hostess Evelyn King and server Drew Bucklin take a moment to discuss the specials for the night, and soon begin a dialog about the most popular item on the restaurant’s menu: the baked maca-roni and cheese appetizer.

“At least half of the tables get the mac and cheese,” King says. Bucklin nods in agreement before rattling off other varia-tions of this classic comfort food now appearing on the menus at several Starr eateries. While Bucklin’s favorite interpretation of the dish is the version served at Jones, he also notes the finer points of the lobster mac and cheese prepared at both the Continental Mid-town and The Continental; the truffle mac and cheese at Barclay Prime; and even the jalapeño breadcrumb crusted mac and cheese at El Camino Real, a non-Starr Tex-Mex restaurant in Northern Liberties.

Philadelphia-area foodies and other restaurant-goers are practically guaranteed to find their favorite mac and cheese variation somewhere, regardless of their personal tastes or budgets. Center City’s Good Dog, for instance, offers a cornflake crusted, three-cheese and béchamel sauce baked entrée served with blueberry cornbread ($13), while the many Marathon Grill locations serve up a classic cheddar cheese, bacon, tomato and caramelized onion dish known as the Marathon Mac and Cheese ($10.95). And there are a bevy of both imaginative and more traditional side- and small-dish interpretations at restaurants such as Parc, where macaroni gratin ($9) is on offer, Honey’s Sit ‘n’ Eat, with its standard but still toothsome homemade macaroni and cheese ($3) and Liberties Restaurant & Bar with its tomato and herbed bread crumb version ($7).

It’s clear that Philadelphia’s restaurateurs are capitalizing on the steadily growing popularity of reimagined comfort food fare. In addition to macaroni and cheese, American classics like meatloaf, pot pies, pierogies, BLTs, fried chicken, and even green bean casseroles have become staples in restaurants city-wide—and at price points as varied as the reinterpreted recipes themselves.

“What’s been most interesting about the comfort food trend,” explains Arthur Etchells, editor of the Philly food and drink blog foobooz.com, “is the variety and popularity of comfort foods at traditionally upscale restaurants.” A local restaurant scene expert whose favorite comfort food is the chicken pot pie at Standard Tap, Etchells explains that as restaurant-goers have became significantly more budget-conscious in recent years, upscale restaurants have been forced to drastically cut their prices and expenses. Many restaurateurs have discovered the inspiration to do just that by studying the city’s much-loved gastropub scene.

“Gastropubs have always offered comfort food fare,” says Etchells. “And it was a natural progression that other restau-rants would [eventually] be influenced by their success.”

As economic conditions slowly improve, Etchells predicts we’ll see chefs beginning to get even more experimental with comfort food recipes. He also says we’ll soon see res-taurateurs looking for “creative ways to push the price point of these items up a dollar or two.” And if the city’s latest-rumored restaurant openings are any indication, Philadelphia diners can expect macaroni and cheese—along with other comfort food staples—to become a mainstay on many of their soon-to-be-favorite menus as well.

Consider, for example, the stylish restaurant and lounge that will soon be joining the University City dining scene, MidAtlantic: In addition to a regular menu and daily specials, proprietor Daniel Stern plans to offer his own take on a differ-ent comfort food each day of the week. Stern’s planned offer-ings include a Saturday roast, meatloaf and gravy on Mondays, a hot dog night on Wednesdays and corned beef and cabbage on Thursdays.

As Philadelphia continues to establish itself as a national, and even international dining destination, comfort foods are undeni-ably becoming a defining staple in the city’s culinary style. ■


Wednesday, November 18 6 to 8 p.m.

Happy Hour

Club

nevergosolo comY

JOIN NOW

In Center City

nevergosolo comY

Find your matchin Philadelphia.

Sign up for a freechance at love.

800-361-5181


reminds you to drink responsibly

pw taste 2009

Documents

s t etthe

cafe fulya

cafe spice

monks cafe

belgian cafe

world cafe live

restaurant school

divan turkish restaurant