quilting arts small projects[1]

FREE quilt pattERns: 5 small quilting pRojEcts from Q u i lt i n g A rt s 1 q u i lt i n g a Rt s . c o m

©interweave press llc

1 Little Treasures caRol FlEtchER

2 12-Pocket Colored Pencil Roll kathy mack

3 Winter Journal Covers luciE summERs

4 Fabric Luggage Tags hElEn gREgoRy

5 Magical Card Case and Mini -wallet

noRmajEan BREvik

23

1

4

f r e e q u i lt pat t e r n s

5 small quilting projectsfrom Quilting Arts

5

FREE quilt pattERns 5 small quilting pRojEctsQuilting ArtsM A G A Z I N E ®



As we head into winter (and the holiday season), who doesn’t want an excuse to hole up in their sewing room and stitch? In this e-Book, some of our favorite fiber artists present five artful and quilted projects—perfect gifts for friends or for yourself––that can be whipped up in an afternoon.

First, Carol Fletcher shares her “Little Treasures” pattern for creating an embellished and colorful fabric container to house a small gift. A word of warning: they are addictive!

Do you have an artist in your family and want to use up some of those colorful fabric scraps? Check out Kathy Mack’s pattern for an adorable

pencil roll made with vibrant fabrics to coordinate with colored pencils. You’ll also find UK artist Lucie Summers’ mixed-media and printmaking approach to stitching with her beautiful winter journal covers—the perfect gift for the writer in your family.

And as we prepare for the hustle and bustle of holiday travel, what better way to personalize your luggage than with a quilted luggage tag? Our own managing editor, Helen Gregory, shares her pattern that will make your luggage stand out at the baggage claim.

And lastly, want to impress your business associates (or fellow quilters)? Normajean Brevik has cleverly engineered a card case and mini wallet that dispenses a business card with the

slight tug of a ribbon.

Have fun stitching!

Pokey Bolton Editor-in-Chief

Quilting ArtsM A G A Z I N E ®

Quilting Arts presentsquilt pat terns:

5 small quilting pRojEcts

editor-in-Chief pokey Boltonassistant editor pippa eccles

creative servicesdivision art direCtor

larissa davis

photographers

larry steinKorday studio

Projects and information are for inspira-

tion and personal use only. QuIltING Arts

MAGAZINE is not responsible for any li-

ability arising from errors, omissions, or

mistakes contained in this e-book, and

readers should proceed cautiously, espe-

cially with respect to technical information.

interweave Press LLc grants permission to

photocopy any patterns published in this is-

sue for personal use only.

in your lifetextureput

more

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Quilting Arts mAgAzine® explores ideas, textiles, and techniques

related to embellished and contemporary art quilting.

Inside, you’ll find design inspiration, step-by-step directions,

gorgeous photo graphy, and motivation for developing your

personal style, at all skill levels.


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little treasures tehe beautiful temples of Thailand inspired these little treasure

chests. In the midst of modern buildings or out in the countryside,

it is not uncommon to see the temples’ glittering spires. They are

intricately carved and encrusted with gold leaf. Jewel-colored mosaics

add sparkle to many of the surfaces.

Adapted from Quilting Arts MAgAzine® Issue 20

By CArol FletCher

The design of this box is simple but

pleasing and offers a great canvas to

use when trying new embellishment

ideas. After making one, you will find

that it is difficult to stop. So pull out

your sparkly fabric, metallic paints,

and Swarovski crystals and let the fun

begin!

DirectionsSelect 2 fabrics, 1 for the outside 1.

of your box and 1 for the lining,

and cut an 8" × 8" square of each.

You can use fabrics that you have




M A T e r I A L S

Pellon• ® interfacing (50 wt.)

Fusible web such as •WonderUnder® or stitch Witchery®

two 8" × 8" squares of fabric, •one for the outside of the box and one for the lining

Freezer paper•teflon ironing sheet or •parchment paper

Black, fine-point marker•small, sharp scissors•18mm rotary cutter•Foam paintbrush•Fabric paint•Metallic threads, fancy bobbin •threads

sewing machine•sewers aid (this is a liquid that, •when applied sparingly to thread, makes your machine sewing smoother and your hand sewing easier.)

embellishments (braids, •swarovski® crystals, piping, sequins, beads, etc.)

Heat-setting tool for the crystals•Fray check™•

altered with paint or dye, or select

commercial fabrics.

Cut two 8" × 8" squares of fusible 2.

web and one 8" × 8" piece of

Pellon.

Make a sandwich of the 5 pieces: 3.

first, put down the lining fabric,

wrong-side up, then add a piece

of fusible web, then the Pellon,

another piece of fusible web, and

finally the fabric for the outside of

your box, right-side up.

Place a piece of parchment paper 4.

or a Teflon sheet on your ironing

board to protect it from the fusible

web, put the fabric sandwich on

top of it, and place another sheet of

parchment on top of the sandwich

to protect your iron. Following the

directions for the fusible web, iron

your fabric sandwich until all layers

adhere. You will probably need to

press one side and then flip the fabric

sandwich over and press the other

side.

Trace the pattern of the box onto the 5.

dull side of the freezer paper and cut

it out.

Iron the freezer paper pattern (shiny 6.

side down) onto the fabric sandwich

and cut out your box. Cut carefully—

this step will make the difference

between an elegant piece of art and a

misshapen little box. (I used an 18mm

rotary cutter to cut the sides of each

slit and embroidery scissors to cut the

ends of the slits.)

Sew close to all of the raw edges, 7.

including the slits. (I found that a

straight stitch caused less fraying

than a zigzag stitch.) Put Fray

Check on the raw edges of the

“knobs” at the top of the box

because they get a lot of use and

tend to fray.

If desired, use a foam brush to 8.

paint the edges of the box with

fabric paint to cover any white

from the Pellon or fusible web

that may show. Using a metallic

Enlarge Pattern 200%

Interweave Press LLC grants permission to photocopy

this pattern for personal use.




If you buy fusible Pellon, you only •need to add the fusible web to the side

without it.

The freezer paper pattern can be used •several times if you remove it carefully

from the fabric after each use. When

deciding where to apply crystals, take

note of the areas of the box that are

covered when it is closed and do not

put crystals in these areas.

If your treasure box needs more •sparkle, paint it with Finishing Gold

or Silver glitter paint by Pebeo.

Be sure to heat set the paints you

use, following the manufacturer’s

instructions.

This would be an excellent •opportunity to try out those fancy

stitches on your machine.

bronze, gold, or copper acrylic

paint will give your box a gilded

look.

embellish, as desired. Create 9.

designs and interest with piping,

bobbin work, Swarovski crystals,

beads, braid, sequins, glitter

paint, and more. remember that

whatever you sew on the front

will show up on the lining.

To construct the box, pull the 10.

2 swirl-shaped petals together.

Holding them with one hand,

bring one of the petals with a slit

up and over the top of the swirl

petals. Last, bring the other slit

petal up and over the other three

petals.

tipsTo lessen thread breakage, squeeze •one or two stripes of Sewers

Aid across your spool of thread.

(Always check your sewing

machine manual before using

any new product.)

to see more of carol’s work,

visit fireandfiberart.com.

r e S O U r C e S

BeADs AnD ChArMs

www.artvango.co.uk•www.firemountaingems.com•www.interweavestore.com •866-698-6989

FABriC PAints

www.prochemical.com •800-228-9393

Pellon® stABiliZer

www.joggles.com •401-615-7696

seWers AiD AnD FrAy CheCk™

available at Jo-ann Fabrics and •other sewing supply stores

BeJeWeler® heAt- setting tool AnD sWAroVski® CrystAls

cheri’s crystals •www.cheriscrystals.com




wrapped & ready 12-pocket colored pencil roll

tehe inspiration for this design

came from watching my oldest

daughter’s never-ending hunt for a

full set of colored pencils. I combined

my love of colorful patchwork with

the basic need for better storage. The

quilting on this piece is not only a

decorative element; it also serves an

important function—it forms the

pockets and gives structure to the

roll. The surprise is how much fun it

is to select fabric prints to match each

pencil.

The colored pencil roll makes a

perfect gift for a special young friend.

You’ll also want to make one for

yourself as a festive container for

toting art supplies on the go.“Sun Dance” • 28" × 26"

Adapted from Cloth PAPer sCissors stuidos Premiere Issue, Spring 2008

By kAthy MACk

Directionsthe pAtchwork 1. Select fabric for the first and last

pockets. Cut these strips 2" x 11".

2. Cut ten 11⁄2" x 11" strips and arrange

the colors in an eye-pleasing order.

3. Chain piece the strips together using a 1⁄4" seam allowance. Join A to B, C to

D, and so on. Press seams in the same

direction. Sew AB to CD, EF to GH,

IJ to KL. Repeat piecing and pressing

in this manner until all 12 strips are

joined.




tip: it’s easy to get the order confused when piecing the strips. Mark the first and last strips with a pin to stay organized. Place each combination in the correct order on your work surface before sewing the next round.

4. Press and square up the patchwork

to measure 10" x 131⁄2". If your

patchwork measures smaller, trim

other components to match.

the pocket 1. Center and iron the interfacing to

the wrong side of the cotton pocket

fabric. With right sides together,

sew the pocket to the pocket lining

along the top edge only, using a 1⁄2"

seam allowance.

2. Press the seam open, turn right side

out, and press flat. Topstitch 1⁄4"

from the top edge.

the tie 1. Lay ribbon on the right side of

your exterior fabric.

2. Center one end of the ribbon even

with the outside edge.

3. Attach the ribbon by stitching

back and forth 1⁄4" from the edge.

The free end of the ribbon will lie

toward the opposite edge of the

exterior fabric.

roll Assembly 1. Layer the pieces in the following

order: flannel batting, right-side

up; pieced patchwork, right-side

up; pocket, right-side up, and

exterior fabric, wrong-side up.

2. Pin the outside edges all around.

Using a 1⁄2" seam allowance, begin

stitching just above the pocket on

the right-hand side (the tie should

be on the left-hand side). Be sure

to avoid catching the free end of the

ribbon in the seam.

3. After turning the final corner, stop

stitching 4" before the end to leave an

opening for turning.

4. Clip all corners and turn right-side

out. Be sure to push out the corners;

use a turning tool, if necessary.

5. Press and slipstitch the opening closed.

creAte pencil pocketsA single, continuous line of stitching

forms the individual pencil pockets. A

walking foot is recommended.

tip: if you wish, mark the stitching lines on the pocket with chalk, using the patchwork seams as a guide.

1. With the interior side up, begin

stitching at the bottom left edge of

the roll, 1⁄4" from the side edge. Stop 1⁄4" from the top edge with the needle

down.

2. Lift the presser foot, turn the pencil

roll 90°, and stitch to the first pieced

seam line.

3. Repeat turn and continue stitching

down the seam line (in the ditch) onto

the pocket, stopping 1⁄4" from the

bottom edge.

4. Repeat turning and stitching until all

12 pockets are formed.

5. End the stitching at the upper

right-hand corner of the pencil roll.

finishing 1. Sew a button to the exterior of the

roll on the same side as the ribbon.

2. Embellish the ribbon end with beads,

using a square knot to secure.

3. Trim the ribbon end on a slant and

treat the cut edge with Fray Check

or clear nail polish.

4. Wrap the ribbon around the

button to secure.

.

M A T e r I A L S

Finished size: 9" x 121⁄2"

•12 different colored cotton fabric strips (at least 2" x 11") to match each pencil

•10" x 131⁄2" piece of decorator-weight cotton or linen for exterior

•10" x 131⁄2" piece of neutral flannel for batting

•43⁄4" x 131⁄2" piece of coordinating linen or cotton for pocket

•43⁄4" x 131⁄2" piece of cotton for pocket lining

3• 3⁄4" x 121⁄2" piece of medium-weight fusible interfacing for pocket

•1⁄2 yard narrow ribbon for tie

•1 very groovy button

12 colored pencils•Fray check™ or clear nail polish•

to see more of kathy’s work,

visit pinkchalkstudio.com.




winter journal Covers

tehese covered journals are really easy

and fun to make and look terrific using

original, printed fabrics. I first started making

these, using diaries, as Christmas gifts a few years ago.

They were a huge success and greatly appreciated by

the recipients. Since then, I’ve refined the design to

make it simpler to put together. These journals would

be particularly suitable as holiday gifts, especially for

artistic friends, or as diaries for those without a creative

streak. Although these journals have a holiday feel,

they make lovely presents for lots of occasions. Other

possibilities include covering small photograph albums

for a baby’s first Christmas, or applying different stamps

and inspiration for a couple celebrating their wedding.

By luCie suMMers

Adapted from Quilting Arts gifts, Holiday 2007/2008




Directionsto mAke the journAl cover1. Open the book and center it on

the pre-cut piece of felt. (Allow

an extra 3" on either end and 1⁄8"

on the top and bottom.) Mark the

book flaps by tracing along the

edges of the book. Transfer these

markings onto the other side of

the felt. This will be your guide for

folding the book flaps.

2. Arrange your fabrics and/or Color

Catchers over the felt. You can

cut the pieces down to make more

of a patchwork effect or leave

the pieces whole—this is what I

tend to do. Slightly overlap the

fabrics so the felt doesn’t show. It

is a good idea to keep folding the

piece of felt in half just to see what

the front will look like when the

piece is wrapped around the book;

this way it can be easily changed

if something doesn’t work. The

fabrics should extend at least 1"

beyond the outer edges, all the way

around. When you are happy with

the arrangement, glue the fabrics in

place.

3. Using a walking foot on your

machine, zigzag over the raw edges.

Use a thread that blends nicely

with your fabrics, and remember,

if you don’t want your stitches to

show on the back of the cover,

match your thread to the color of

the felt.

4. Change the thread color and

quilt with a straight stitch over

the entire piece, changing thread

colors as you wish. I usually quilt a

random grid over the cover. You can,

of course, quilt any design you wish.

5. Trim the excess fabric around the

edges down to around 1⁄2". On the

2 short sides a straight blade is fine,

but on the longer sides use pinking

shears or a rotary cutter with a wavy

blade. This is just to make it look

nice on the inside of the cover.

6. Turn over the edges of the 2 short

sides and iron. Pin in place and stitch

down, using a 1⁄4" seam.

7. Turn over the edges of the 2 long

sides and iron. Use a glue stick to

keep the edge down, not pins. If you

want to have a ribbon bookmark, pin

this exactly in the middle of the top

edge—make sure that this is in the

middle of the spine.

8. Fold over the flaps and pin very close

to the edge. Check that the cover

fits the book. This rarely fits the first

time around and it will probably need

a bit of adjustment. The trick is to get

it to fit snugly, but not too tightly.

remember to keep checking that the

flaps are still equal widths.

9. Stitch as close as you can to the

folded edge (a touch less than 1⁄8"),

and stitch slowly. There is quite a

lot of bulk to stitch through, but be

patient and it will go together with

no problems at all. Check that the

book fits correctly.

10. Tie the loose threads at each corner

and stitch to secure.

11. Take out the book and embellish the

cover as you desire. This is where

you can really let your imagination

go wild—use beads, sequins, glitter

glue, and charms to personalize

your book cover. remember to

M A T e r I A L S

a plain sketchbook or notebook •with good-quality paper, no larger than 8" × 8" (i use a brand called seawhite.)

Pieces of winter-inspired fabrics •(commercial or hand-dyed), at least 1" longer than your book and 4"–5" wide

3–4 used shout• ® color catcher™ sheets (see page 10)

a piece of fine felt, 6" longer than •the width (including the spine) and 1⁄4" longer than the height of your book

sewing machine with a walking foot•thread in several colors to match •your fabrics

spray glue or fusible glue•a pair of pinking shears or a wavy •blade rotary cutter

strong textile glue (i use waterproof •Pva wood glue.)

embellishments such as beads, •sequins, shaped paper punches, brass paper fasteners, brads, eyelets, scraps of interesting paper, ribbons, lace, embossing pads and powder, paper tags, scraps of leather

Winter or holiday-inspired “focal •point” stamps

2–3 general background stamps, •such as spots and dots, stripes, and diamonds

acrylic craft paint in a number of •colors, metallic and non-metallic

Foam rollers: 2"-wide are perfect for •this project

Optionala piece of thin ribbon for a •bookmark




tips for embellishment 1. The background stars on the

“Wintergreen’’ journal were made

by using a paper punch to cut

shaped pieces of thin leather. I

glued them onto the front using

strong textile glue. I stitched green

star sequins on top of the leather

and finished them off by tying on

a bronze bead and leaving strands

of the green thread on for show.

2. The holly motif on the

black-and-gray “First Frost”

journal was created using a clear

embossing pad and black sparkle

embossing powder. On fabric,

the powder doesn’t raise but does

give a nice bit of glitz. For a raised

effect, do the same thing on a thick

watercolor paper and attach by

hand stitching through the paper.

Add beads or sequins as desired.

3. On the pink “Partridge and Pear”

journal, I painted the paper tags

in bronze acrylic, stamped out a

large circle shape, and then placed

scraps of sheet music behind the

“window.” I stuck these down with

strong textile glue, then attached

a small chrome-colored paper

fastener through the hole where

the string usually goes. I then

stitched through the tags for extra

security.

4. On the small “Ice Blue’’ journal, I

added a small tree in white onto

a piece of screen-printed linen,

naively stitched in white along the

top and bottom, and then added

small, silver seed beads. I applied

a row of bugle beads and finally

stitched a row of crosses along the

bottom section of plain, blue linen.

stitch each item down securely:

if the book is going to be used

frequently, or kept in a handbag,

it needs to be able to stand up to a

bit of wear and tear.

color cAtchersshout color catcher is a product designed to catch the loose dye in the washing machine while washing your clothes. it comes in small white sheets (around 5" × 10") of what i call a “paper fiber”—they can withstand being wet like fabric, but they rip like paper, and don’t fray. My mum began using them some time ago in her washing machine and we both began to get interested in what color they came out as—mainly various tones of gray. it was only when she put one in with a new pair of dark denim jeans that we both realized the potential for these gems. the sheet came out a gorgeous shade of blue, just right for a project i was working on.

since then, i have been collecting mountains of these sheets and squirreling them away. i discovered that they take dye and paint beautifully (which, of course, is what they’re for) and are perfect for making these journal covers. they can be used straight from the washing machine (but quite often they come out gray from a colored wash—you can paint dye over a pale one to give a different base color) or you can decorate them with acrylic paints and fabric dyes. Heavily painted color catchers feel gorgeous, almost like leather or suede. another advantage they have over fabric is that they can be used with paper punches, which look great as embellishments. the following instructions are for decorating color catchers, but you can obviously use fabric instead.

pAinting the fAbric1. Decide on your color palette. For “First Frost,” the small, black-and-white journal, i

used metallic graphite, silver, white, black, and gray.

2. roll a layer of metallic paint over the fabric or color catcher and either leave it to dry or iron it dry. (if you decide to do this, use a piece of scrap paper or paper towel to protect your iron.)

3. Wash a darker color over the whole piece, leaving some areas of the original color showing.

4. roll on a very fine layer of a pale color.

5. Using silver acrylic and a general background stamp, randomly stamp over the fabric.

6. stamp a more prominent focal point stamp in a stronger, more contrasting color.

7. Do the same to the other color catchers or fabrics, but vary the tones; make one very pale overall with a hint of darker color; make another more medium in tone. try to use similar stamps in all of them, so there is a link between all of the pieces. it is also nice to have one with lots of texture but no stamping, and to mix and match color catchers with other fabrics for your journal (cotton, linen, and silk are great) because it is visually interesting to have contrasts in texture.




iDeAs for book closuresI generally like to leave the book

without any aid to keep it closed,

like the “Wintergreen” journal, but

I had a lot of fun playing around

with these other ideas.

1. The pink “Partridge and Pear”

journal closure is simply a piece

of 1"-wide organza ribbon,

stitched in the middle of the spine

and tied at the edges. I think this

would be lovely as a gift for a

bride or bridesmaid, especially

with a photograph album to

record the special day. It would

be particularly lovely if created

using pieces of fabrics from the

dresses. Choose a ribbon you can

see through so it doesn’t spoil any

other focal point on the cover.

2. The “Ice Blue” journal closure was

made using a piece of strong cord.

This was threaded through the

crease in the book flap, using a

large needle, and knotted. On the

other end of the cord I tied a small

single-hole button. The knot was

dabbed with PVA glue and left to

dry. I stitched a larger

mother-of-pearl button 1" away

from the edge of the book and

wrapped the cord around the

button to close the book. The little

button acts as a tab.

3. With the black-and-gray “First

Frost” journal, I used a piece of thin

gray ribbon as a closure. A piece

was threaded through both book

flap creases and the ends knotted.

For extra decoration I used 2 small,

single-hole buttons, threaded them

onto the ribbon, and tied a knot to

keep them in place. The ends of the

ribbon were sealed with a candle

flame and then tied in a bow.

the finishing touchIf you are making a journal for

a gift, think about adding the recipient’s

initials or a word (“peace” or “joy”

would be lovely) by embossing them

using puff paint. Spread a little of the

puff paint over a piece of fabric or

paper, then stamp or write the initials

or word firmly into the wet surface.

Dry, using a heat gun, and rub a little

metallic paint into the raised surface.

Cut out the initials or word, leaving a

border of around 1⁄2", and hand stitch

into place on the cover.

To make your journal even more

special, make a label from cardstock

or fabric with your name on it and

stitch it somewhere on the journal.

I use a computer and change the

font on every letter, and stitch it in

by hand. If it is for a gift, you could

write a special message, too. I like to

put mine on the front book flap so

everyone can see it when the book is

opened.

to see more of lucie’s work, visit

blu-shed.blogspot.com.

n E E d f r e s h i n s p i r a t i o n ?

look insidecloth paper

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faBriC luggage tags Adapted from Quilting Arts gifts Holiday 2008/2009

we all need a way to quickly

identify our suitcases as

they arrive at baggage claim,

and what better way than

with a colorful fabric luggage

tag? Friends and family will

appreciate this token that

celebrates your passion for

fabric. For added interest,

different but coordinating

fabrics were used for the front

and back, and a third fabric

was used for the strap. You can

mix-and-match fabrics, use a

single fabric, or personalize

your luggage tags by using

fabrics that you’ve painted,

dyed, and/or printed.

DirectionsCenter 1 stabilizer rectangle on 1.

the wrong side of the Fabric A

rectangle.

Apply glue along the edges of the 2.

stabilizer rectangle and wrap the

edges of the Fabric A rectangle

up and over the edges of the

stabilizer, as if wrapping a present.

Add extra glue as needed to hold

the fabric in place.




repeat this process with the 3.

second stabilizer rectangle and

the Fabric B rectangle.

To make a pocket for the 4.

name/address card, center

the clear plastic rectangle

on the right side of either

the Fabric A or B rectangle.

Topstitch close to the edge

around 3 sides, leaving 1

short side open.

Note: If you don’t want the

stitching on the plastic to show, use

monofilament as your top thread.

To prepare the strap, fold the 5.

Fabric C strip in half lengthwise;

press. Then open the strip and

fold each long side in to meet the

fold line; press. Topstitch close to

the edge along both lengthwise

edges.

Layer the 2 prepared 6.

rectangles, wrong sides

together. Fold the strap in

half and tuck the raw ends in

between the wrong sides of the

rectangles (approximately 3⁄8"),

centering the strap along

1 of the short sides.

Topstitch around all 4 sides, 7.

approximately 1⁄8" from the edge,

being sure to catch the strap in the

seam.

tip: For extra security, stitch back and forth along the seam with the strap.

Add any embellishments, as desired.8.

Write the recipient’s name on 1 side 9.

of the card and add her name and

address on the reverse side of the

card; insert into the pocket.

M A T e r I A L S (to make one 51⁄4" × 31⁄2"

luggage tag)

Fabric a for front, cut 1 rectangle •41⁄2" × 61⁄4"

Fabric B for back, cut 1 rectangle •41⁄2" × 61⁄4"

Fabric c for strap, cut 1 strip •2" × 14"

Heavyweight stabilizer, cut 2 •rectangles 31⁄2" × 51⁄4"

clear plastic vinyl for name/address •pocket, cut 1 rectangle 21⁄2" × 4"

cardstock for name/address card, •cut 1 rectangle 2" × 31⁄2"

Glue stick•sewing machine and thread •(monofilament and cotton, or thread of choice)

Optionalembellishments•

iDeAs for embellishment

Personalize your luggage tags by •using hand-dyed fabrics that have

been foiled, stamped, or stenciled

with your own designs or lettering.

Before stitching the front and •back together, add monogrammed

lettering with hand or machine

stitching onto the back fabric.

Add a little whimsy by framing •the tag with short fringe, rickrack,

or another trim, sandwiching

it between the two sides before

stitching them together.

helen is the managing editor of

Quilting Arts mAgAzine®, and

can be contacted at

[email protected].


mailto:[email protected]



magiCal card case & mini-wallet

Adapted from Quilting Arts MAgAzine® Issue 24

Magical card cases by (top, left to right) Allison Stilwell, Beryl Taylor, and Karen Stiehl Osborn, (at right) Lyric Kinard, Tracy Stilwell, and Wendy Richardson.

i’m ealways looking for new

and clever ways to use

my fabrics, embellishments, and trims.

This business card case and mini-wallet

is not only pretty and easy to make, it

delivers your cards with the panache of

a magic trick. Originally inspired by a

child’s antique toy, this card case makes

your card rise to the top when you pull

an embellished cord or ribbon. The

other side conveniently holds your credit

card and driver’s license. You can make

this project in an hour or less, with or

without the necklace cording, and then

derive endless joy from the

looks of surprise you get

when you dispense your

card as if by magic.

By norMAJeAn BreVik

DirectionsThe finished card case 1.

measures 23⁄4" × 4" and is

constructed of 3 finished

pieces sandwiched together

to form 2 pockets.

Cut 3 pieces of Fast-2-Fuse, 2.

23⁄4" × 4". remember, if you

choose to use a product without

the fusible built in you will need

to apply fusible webbing.

Using a Teflon sheet or baking 3.

parchment to protect your work

surface, take 2 Fast-2-Fuse pieces

and fuse your outer fabric to

1 side of each piece, following

the manufacturer’s instructions.

At this point you will have 1 side

of each of these pieces without




Step 6: Top edge

Step 7

Step 10

Above right: Magical card case by Normajean Brevik.

fabric, and 1 other piece of

Fast-2-Fuse without any fabric

attached.

Note: If you plan to quilt or bead

the front and back covers, now

would be the best time, before

you fuse the back side to this

piece.

4. Trim the excess fabric,

being sure not to cut the

Fast-2-Fuse.

5. Fuse the lining fabric

to the remaining 4

uncovered sides of the

Fast-2-Fuse and trim

excess fabric again.

6. Select a satin zigzag

stitch or a fancy

stitch with a close

stitch length

on your sewing

machine. Determine the top of each

piece (23⁄4" side) and stitch each piece

along this edge with the outer fabric

on top. Allow the last stitch to fall

slightly off the edge of your piece so

that the edge is encased in thread.

tip: Be sure to test stitch on another piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches will cover the edge adequately.

7. Decide what type of opening you

want: a buttonhole, grommet, or

eyelet hole are all suitable, however

the buttonhole seems to work best

if you are using a ribbon, and the

grommet if you are using cording.

On the front side of your case,

measure down approximately 1"

from the top, mark it, and then

determine the middle of that line

for placement reasons. Center your

opening on the line and create it.

8. Here’s where the magic starts.

Take the middle section of your

case (piece C) and measure down

approximately 1" from the top

center. Position your silk ribbon

on that mark; let the ribbon hang

straight down. Zigzag stitch over

the ribbon for approximately 1⁄2"

down from the top, securing the

ribbon firmly. These stitches will

not show as they will be inside

the holder.

9. Thread your ribbon or cording

through the buttonhole or

grommet, before all the pieces

are stitched together. Thread it

through the back of the opening

so that it now hangs out the

Remaining Inner fabric, wrong-side up

Outer fabric, wrong-side up Inner fabric, wrong-side up

A

A A

B A

B B

C

C

B A C

C

C

A

C A

A A B



A

A A

B A

B B

C

C

B A C

C

C

A

C A

A A B



A

A A

B A

B B

C

C

B A C

C

C

A

C A

A A B



A

A A

B A

B B

C

C

B A C

C

C

A

C A

A A B



A

A A

B A

B B

C

C

B A C

C

C

A

C A

A A B

When you are finished fusing your fabrics to the 3 pieces of Fast-2-Fuse, 2 pieces will have outer fabric on 1 side and lining fabric on the other (A and B), and the third piece will have lining fabric on both sides (C).

Steps 8 and 9




front. This will create a

“sling” for the cards to rest in.

Although it makes for a little

awkward stitching in the next

step, it is still easier to do

this now rather than trying to

thread it later.

10. Secure your top and middle

sandwich together with a

narrow, basting zigzag stitch,

sewing the sides and bottoms

only. Next, baste all of the

pieces together. Once all of

the basting is completed,

go back and couch yarn or

cording over the raw edges or

use a basic satin zigzag stitch

to finish them. Take several

extra stitches at both top

corners as these are what will

get the most wear on your

case. Trim your yarns.

11. Insert a few cards in the case

to force the ribbon down so

you can determine where you

want your embellishments to

be on the “tail,” or pulling

end, of the ribbon. Once

the length is determined,

embellish the cord/ribbon

as desired. Knot it and trim

the end when you are finished

embellishing. Your ribbon or

cording acts as a sling that,

when pulled, will raise the

cards up in the case.

To see more of Normajean’s work,

visit seasew.blogspot.com.

On the occasion of International Quilt Festival’s 35th anniversary, Quilting Arts and International Quilt Festival capture the energy, beauty, and community of today’s quilt scene with a fresh, new quilt magazine.

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• Unique studio organization ideas

• Who’s Who on the Quilt Scene

• Tips, ideas, and stories about attending Festival

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iNside you’ll find

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