rakki-inu akita rescue, inc. a non-profit akita … info packet.pdfthe story was quite famous in...
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RAKKI-INU AKITA RESCUE, INC.
A NON-PROFIT AKITA RESCUE HELPING WITH:
-Breed Information/education
-Akita rescue: adoptable dogs available
-Breeder referral
757-831-4200
www.VAakitarescue.org
www.facebook.com/va.akita.rescue
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Table of Contents
Five Adoption Tips …………………………. Page 3
The Akita …………………………. Page 4-5
Coat and Grooming …………………………. Page 6
Care and feeding …………………………. Page 7
Housing/Exercise …………………………. Page 8
Frequently Asked Questions …………………………. Page 9-10
The Akita Standard …………………………. Page 11-12
The Cost of an Akita Rescue Dog …………………………. Page 13
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FIVE ADOPTION TIPS – PLEASE READ!!!
Ways to help assimilate your newly adopted Akita into your home correctly!! Always always
remember: NOTHING IN LIFE IS FREE!! If your Akita wants it, he/she has to WORK for it!!! Be
it praise, a cookie, a toy, his meal, a treat – he/she MUST work for it!!!
1. Please be sure that your whole family realizes that this is an adult Akita – as such he/she will need time to assimilate into
your family – he/she will NOT walk in and act like he/she has been there forever. He/she may be aloof, will mourn leaving us
here, and will need to be kindly IGNORED for the first few days – nothing but food, water and outside to do his/her business.
Too much stimulation such as play or neighbor visits or family parties during this period can be confusing for an adult Akita who
has not yet bonded to you and your family yet.
2. NO HUGGING, no KISSING, no GRABBIN HIS/HER COLLAR at first, let the adopted Akita start to bind and come to you for
attention first, do NOT be the one to initiate attention. For the 1st
week, leave the leash on him/her in the house—if he/she
does something wrong, grab the LEASH and correct by using ONLY the leash giving a slight tug, a low “NO NO” and then
leading him/her into another area away from where he/she did something wrong (jumped on the furniture maybe, or counter-
surfed); do NOT grab his/her collar to correct him/her – NOTHING will make any new Akita aggressive quicker than a human
they don’t know grabbing their collar and yelling at them. So be SURE everyone in your family follows this!!
3. I will tell all visitors to my home please, as Cesar Millan “The Dog Whisperer” instructs everyone who owns dogs dogs to tell
visitors to your home or people on the street: “Ignore my Akita; do NOT get on the floor with him/her; do NOT put your face
down and hug him/her; and do NOT expect to play, tease, push around, or command my Akita in this way.” Do NOT allow
family members to play tug-of-war or to tease your Akita at any time for any reason. Do NOT allow anyone to try to take your
Akita’s food bowl or water bowl from your Akita at any time. DO expect everyone in your family and all outsiders’ visiting to
respect you Akita’s “space” or ask them to leave if they will not follow your rules. Better they leave than to have a problem
happen that you will regret later on.
4. Do NOT feel sorry for this Akita – yes he/she may have been a rescue but they are still an Akita – if you give them an inch,
they will take a mile! So whatever rules you will have, have them from the second the Akita walks in – if it’s “no getting on the
furniture,” “no sleeping in the formal living room,” or “no being in the kitchen when we are eating/making food,” start it from
day one and make everyone follow it – and do NOT deviate from it, as that will only cause him/her to be mixed up. Don’t make
any excuses for any behavior that is out of the normal – Akitas NEED to know someone other than them is in charge – so a
correction using the leash and saying “NO NO” in a low voice then walking the Akita out of the area is NOT being mean!!! Every
member of the family MUST be in agreement with this policy or you will have chaos!
5. Remember that an Akita deserves to be given the same respect that you want him/her to give you!! Respect his/her space
and insist everyone coming into your home do the same. DO NOT try to hug him/her or pet him/her while he/she is asleep.
Respect his/her strength – do NOT try to play games like tug-of-war that you can’t win – if you let an Akita win, you lose face to
him/her and that’s NOT good. Gentle fun games are best to play with an Akita like fetch or hide-the-treat, etc…. never tug-of-
war or “chase me” type of games. Do not walk OVER your Akita when he/she is in a doorway, make the Akita move first; do
NOT allow your Akita to race outside before you or run inside ahead of you; do not allow your Akita to walk way ahead of you
on a walk. You are always in charge. You do things first and you command the pace with which you walk with your Akita by your
side.
Call us if you have any issues with your newly adopted Akita – we are here to help in every way we can!!!
SIGNATURE: ___________________________________________________________________
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The Akita
Welcome to the Akita, a companion dog experience
like no other. Whether your goal is a family pet, a show
dog, or obedience competition, we are excited about your
interest and obvious good taste. Our organization, the Akita
Club of America, is a member of the American Kennel
Club. Our goals are to educate the public concerning
Akitas, and to further establish the breed in a healthy,
positive fashion. This brochure is intended to familiarize
you with the Akita.
History The Akita is native to Japan. It’s exact origin is
not clear, but this ancient breed dates as far back as 500
BC. The Akita in Japan holds a very esteemed, almost
mystical reputation. In the early years the Akita was
restricted to Royalty. The Akita was used as a palace guard,
and wore ceremonial leashes and collars that identified the
rank or nobility of its owner. The people who attended to
the dogs also wore ceremonial outfits and spoke in a
separate dialect to the dogs.
As the horrible sport of dog fighting gained popularity, the
Akita’s size, strength, and spirit made it an obvious favorite
in the pits. For years, Akitas were bred to cultivate size and
aggression. The Japanese government realized that the
future of the breed was at stake, declared the breed a nation
treasure, and outlawed the sport of dog fighting. But it was
these centuries of breeding that created the dog aggressive
tendencies you will still find today in varying degrees.
In the twentieth century, the Japanese government still
guarded the Akita jealously. The dogs were rarely allowed
out of the country, and when they were it was usually a gift
to a foreign dignitary. The first Akita in the United States
was a gift from the Japanese Foreign Minister to the well-
known Helen Keller. As World War II ended, the returning
soldiers began to bring the dogs back to the states with
them. The Akita gained popularity quickly in the states and
was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1956 in
the miscellaneous class. The Akita was allowed to compete
for championship points in 1973.
Physical Appearance The Akita always makes a
lasting first impression. Akitas are large, powerful dogs
with substantial bone and musculature. The broad chest and
neck serve as a solid base for the Akita’s large head, the
Akita’s most distinguishing feature. The broad skull and
the short muzzle form a blunt triangle when viewed from
above. The massive head in combination with the small
triangular shaped eyes, and small erect ears give the Akita
an intimidating, yet dignified, expression.
The Akita is a very balanced looking dog, being only
slightly longer than it is tall. The tail is curled and carried
over the back, which serves to balance with the dog’s head.
Typically the male Akita is substantially larger than the
female. The males range in weight from about 100 to 130
pounds, while the females range from 70 to 100 pounds.
The coat of the Akita has the appearance of the typical
northern breeds. The double coat is short to moderate in
length, but very dense. The coat consists of two layers. The
undercoat is very short and is the primary insulator, while
the outer coat, or the guard hairs, is slightly longer and
more coarse. The Akita is very well suited to the coldest of
climates, and while they might not enjoy hot weather, their
coat does lighten considerable in the warmer months to
compensate for the heat.
Temperament The personality of the Akita is very
complex. While temperaments vary, most would agree that
he Akita is very intelligent, extremely loyal, and can
exhibit aggressive tendencies. The aggressive tendencies
are almost exclusively towards other dogs of the same sex.
Typically, Akitas are not aggressive toward people, but do
have a very well developed guarding and protective
instinct. Akitas also have a high an well-develpoed prey
drive. An Akita is not likely to shower affection on
someone that is not a member of his family or a close
friend he sees frequently.
The loyalty and devotion displayed by an Akita is
phenomenal. The typical pet Akita will follow you from
room to room, yet has the uncanny ability not to be under
foot. Your Akita lives his life as if his only purpose is to
protect you and spend time with you. This trait is evident
in s favorite tale told by Akita owners all over the world.
This tale is the story of Hachiko. In Tokyo, Hachiko would
accompany his master to the train station every morning,
and return to retrieve him every afternoon. Hachiko’s
master was a professor at Tokyo University, and one day he
died at work. It is said that every day for the rest of the
dog’s life, Hachiko returned to the train station twice daily
looking for his master. The story was quite famous in
Tokyo, and the general public cared for the dog until his
death. Hachiko is preserved in a museum in Tokyo, and a
statue stands at the train station in tribute to his undying
devotion. To this day, the statue is a popular romantic place
for lovers to meet.
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The Akita as a House Pet Even though Akitas are
large, hardy dogs that can withstand the elements, they
have been bred for centuries to be house companions. The
two most outstanding characteristics of the Akita as a house
pet are that they are very clean dogs, and that they are very
easy to housebreak. Akitas have been described as very
“cat-like” because they are so clean and odorless. This may
be one of the reasons why they housebreak so easily. Most
Akitas respond so well to housebreaking that they are
trained in a matter of weeks.
As far as family children are concerned, there are a few
worries. Akitas are devoted, patient friends and protectors
of children. Akitas are typically very gentle with children,
and it is said that Japanese mothers often left their children
with only the Akitas to watch over them. Akitas may be
protective of their own children but may not accept the
neighborhood kids. As a general rule, it is wise not to leave
an Akita, or any large dog, alone with children under12
years of age.
…Akitas do not like to be teased and can respond by biting.
Some children are allowed to treat animals unkindly, a
behavior that often leads to cruelty to animals. These
children should be kept away from an Akita, whose large
size and hunting instincts can endanger the child’s life.
…Akitas should be obedience trained BY their owner and
not sent away to school like some other breeds! A good
obedience class, perhaps beginning with puppy
kindergarten, will guarantee you a firm bond with your dog
and a well-behaved dog. Remember though, Akitas are
extremely intelligent and tend to get bored easily. They
learn quickly, so short training periods are suggested.
Akitas are also very stubborn and when the dog thinks it’s a
waste of time to “sit” or “stay” on more time, he will
simply walk away! Obedience training requires patience!
…Some Akitas are talkers! They may grunt, groan, and
mumble to entertain themselves and you. This conversation
verbalizing IS NOT growling and should not be interpreted
as a growl, which sounds quite different. Akita “talking” is
an endearing trait and should not frighten you. After living
with your dog, you will easily distinguish between talking
and growling.
…Akitas are family-oriented and are not happy when kept
apart from the family. If you do not plan on having your
dog live with you inside both your home and your yard,
you should not seriously consider the Akita for a pet.
…Most Akitas enjoy carrying things around in their mouth,
including your wrist! They may take you by the wrist to
lead you to the cookie cupboard or to their lead. It is not an
aggressive act, it is an endearing trait. Try allowing your
Akita to bring in the newspaper or the mail. They love to
do these types of jobs.
…Akitas are not hyperactive and fit into a sedentary
household, but for optimum health for both YOU and our
Akita, regular exercise is important..
…Akitas will live from 10 – 14 years with good care and
proper nutrition.
…Hypothyroid disease affects a large percent of the breed
and is easily treated by twice daily hormone replacement
therapy. A simple blood test, including T3 and T4 thyroid
levels test, will determine the existence of the condition.
The symptoms may include one or all of the following: skin
and coat problems, sudden onset aggression, itching,
lethargy, and musky odor. Before treating skin conditions
with any drugs, have your vet check for sarcoptic mange,
sebaceous adenitis, and Hypothyroid disease. Other
diseases found in Akitas include Progressive Retinal
Atrophy (blindness) manifested by impaired night vision,
hip and elbow problems, autoimmune diseases,
degenerative myelopathy, and some blood disorders,
though these are not common problems in the breed.
…Akitas require good quality meat and bone meal based
food and do not thrive well on soybean based dog foods.
Akitas 7 years and older should be fed one of the
commercial LITE foods to lessen the onset of kidney
disease which is a problem in older Akitas.
(Akita Rescue Society of America)
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The Akita Coat and Grooming
Twice a year, Akitas "blow" their undercoats, that is, they shed their undercoats completely. It
is a very intense shedding period that can last up to three weeks from start to finish. The good
news is that this only happens twice a year. The rest of the time, Akitas are relatively shed-free.
Some people feel that this periodic problem is easier to cope with than the constant shedding
and renewal of many smooth-coated breeds. The bad news is that the shedding period can be
rather messy. The hair comes out in large and small clumps. Lots of vacuuming and brushing are
in order. Akitas that are neutered, live indoors, or live in a temperate climate (without much
seasonal change) tend to shed smaller amounts year-round and don't go through such dramatic
loss of coat.
The Akita needs very little grooming except when blowing coat; no trimming or shaving of coat
hair is required or recommended, just occasional regular brushing to remove dead hair and
keep the coat fresh and shiny. Nails should be kept short (so you can't hear them "click" as they
walk) and hair on the bottom of the feet should be trimmed to preserve the characteristic tight
"cat foot" of the breed.
Note: There are long coated (or Woolie) Akitas that require more grooming. For them, combing
is a MUST and a long coat Akita owner has to make sure to comb all the way down to the skin
to avoid tangles (mats) as the coat sheds. Long coat Akita owners may prefer that their Woolies
get trimmed (neatened on the feet and around the “edges”), but, like their short-coated
counterparts, shaving is not recommended. It may, however, become necessary if the coat is
neglected and becomes too severely matted. If your long coat Akita does not enjoy being
groomed, or you do not have the time, then regular trips to the groomer are necessary. It is
best if Woolies are combed/groomed from a young age so that they learn to tolerate, and may
even come to love, being groomed.
(some information taken from K9 Web: http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/akitas.html )
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Care and Feeding
Akitas do not eat as much food as most dogs of a relative size. On average they eat between 2 –
4 cups of food (assuming fed twice a day), but may consume less depending on activity and
season.
Akitas, as a rule, do not do well on a food high in soybeans, which is the primary source of
protein in most commercial, supermarket dog foods. They do well on meat and bone meal-
based foods and those with fish meal. Twice daily feeding throughout their adult lives is
recommended to lessen the chance of bloat (see below for more information on bloat). Some
people add a daily natural kelp tablet for the additional iodine. We recommend Blue Buffalo,
Taste of the Wild, Solid Gold, or Diamond Naturals. There are many food choices out there, so
please do your research!
Though kibble (dry dog food) is the easiest to feed, it is generally not as complete as advertisers
may make you think. Consider adding a food supplement, like Missing Link, to help keep your
Akita healthy, active, and have a longer life.
Some people prefer to feed a raw diet. There are lots of benefits to feeding a raw diet, including
dental and digestive health, but it can be cost prohibitive. There is an excellent article written
by Linda Walker of Sunapee Akitas:
http://sunapeeakitas.homestead.com/BARF.html
One other thing worth mentioning here is how long to feed puppy food. Some research
indicates that feeding puppy food for too long can increase the incidence of hip dysplasia in
dogs that are susceptible to it. The theory is that the higher percentage of protein found in
puppy formulas can accelerate growth before the developing skeleton can support the weight.
Some breeders start feeding adult food very soon. Most people gradually switch to adult dog
food at 8-10 months. Again, this is something to discuss with your breeder and veterinarian.
(some information taken from K9 Web: http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/akitas.html )
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Housing
Since some Akitas are jumpers, a high fence (6' or higher) is necessary to contain them when
they are outside. Akitas prefer to be with their families and do well as house dogs. They should
never be left outside, especially tied up, because this can lead to frustration and increased
aggression. Because of their high pain threshold, invisible fences or electric fences aren't a
reliable method of containment, nor will it prevent other animals/people from entering your
yard. As Akitas are highly territorial, this may lead to animal attacks or being bit for
“trespassing” in the eyes of the Akita. With their double coat, Akitas handle cold weather well
but should always have shelter. With shade and fresh water, they can also tolerate hot
weather. Akitas should be kept on leash when off their property because of their independence
and animal aggressiveness.
Exercise
It is debatable how much exercise an Akita needs but a large fenced-in yard is ideal for this
breed. Akitas usually take well to weight-pulling, agility, and sledding; though as a breed they
are not highly represented in such activities. Puppies should not pull any significant weight or
do roadwork (go long-distance, controlled running) until their bones and joints have matured at
about 18 months.
The Akita is a large, impressive and strong working dog. Its heritage must be taken into
consideration by a prospective dog owner. This breed cannot be fed and forgotten - it must be
given a chance to be a member of the family. It needs love, training, and exercise.
(some information taken from K9 Web: http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/akitas.html )
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Frequently Asked Questions
Akitas are supposed to be "dog aggressive". Will I have trouble with other dogs in general? How
about with other Akitas?
Akitas, even those that get along quite well with other dogs, often become dog aggressive at
adolescence or adulthood, basically because they are a dominant breed and don't back down
from challenges. Because of this dominance, two strange Akitas may be more inclined to be
aggressive than one Akita with a less dominant breed. Akitas of the same sex are more likely to
fight than those of the opposite sex. This is why it is recommended that Akitas not be allowed
off leash when not on their own property.
What is this business with "unusual blood cells"?
Akitas, along with one type of poodle, often have smaller red blood cells than other dogs. It is
not known why. This can sometimes lead to misinterpretations of blood test results.
Why are the Japanese and American standards so different?
Most American Akitas came from breeding stock brought back by servicemen after World War
II. These dogs often came from pet shops and, for the most part, did not represent the highest
quality Akitas. Also at this time many Akitas in Japan showed the results of breeding with non-
native breeds, e.g. some of the early American Akitas had large, upright ears and German-
shepherd-like coloring. The Akitas brought back represented several different types. The
American standard was revised several times in the 1960s, and the final version was approved
by the AKC in 1972. After World War II, the Japanese tried to restore a purer type of Akita,
trying to eliminate traits that might come from earlier crossbreeding. Some of the traits they
eliminated were loose skin, loose tail curl, facial wrinkles, and large ears. They also permitted
only the more traditional colors of Japanese dogs - red, white, and brindle.
Are Akitas friendly or reserved with other people?
Typically Akitas are reserved with people other than their families, but many are quite friendly.
As with any dog, you should ask permission before petting an Akita.
I've heard the breed called Akita Inu, too. Are they related to Shiba Inus?
"Inu" means "dog" in Japanese; the Akita is the largest of the native spitz-type Japanese dogs
and the Shiba is the smallest.
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What about the dog I saw on the television, TARO?
This is a long story but basically Taro, an Akita, was literally jailed in a New Jersey jail, for being
a vicious dog and allegedly biting a child. The exact circumstances of the incident are still
debated (it appears to be a real family feud type story) but apparently the dog was tormented
by the child (after being told to leave the dog alone) and the dog may have pawed and NOT
bitten the child at all. After years of legal battles and thousands of dollars in legal/jail costs,
Taro was pardoned by the current Governor of the state but was exiled from New Jersey and
now lives elsewhere.
Where can I find Akita breeders in my area?
The Akita Club of America maintains a breeder list; the breeders whose names appear on the
list HAVE paid for this service.
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THE AKITA STANDARD
GENERAL APPEARANCE – Large, powerful, alert, with much substance and heavy bone. The
broad head, forming a blunt triangle, with deep muzzle, small eyes and erect ears carried
forward in line with the back of the neck, is the characteristic of the breed.
HEAD – Massive but in balance with body; free of wrinkle when at ease. Skull flat between ears
and broad; jaws square and powerful with minimal dewlap. Head forms blunt triangle when
viewed from above. Fault – narrow or snippy head.
MUZZLE – Broad and full. Distance from nose to stop is to distance from stop to occiput as 2 is
to 3. Stop – well defined, but not too abrupt. A shallow furrow extends well up forehead.
NOSE- Broad and black. Liver permitted on white Akitas, but black always preferred.
Disqualification – butterfly nose or total lack or pigmentation on nose.
EARS – The ears of the Akita are characteristic of the breed. They are strongly erect and small in
relation to the rest of the head. If ear is folded forward for measuring length, tip will touch
upper eye rim. Ears are triangular, slightly rounded at tip, wide at base, set wide on head but
not too low, and carried slightly forward over the eyes in line with back of neck. Disqualification
– drop or broken ears.
EYES – Dark brown, small deep-set and triangular in shape. Eye rims black and tight.
LIPS AND TONGUE – Lips black and not pendulous, tongue pink.
TEETH – Strong with scissor bite preferred, but level bite accepted. Disqualification – Noticeably
undershot or overshot.
NECK AND BODY – Neck – Thick and muscular; comparatively short, widening gradually toward
shoulders. A pronounced crest blends in with base of skull. Body – Longer than high, as 10 is to
9 in males; 11 is to 9 in bitches. Chest wide and deep; depth of chest is one-half height of dog at
shoulder. Ribs well sprung, brisket well developed. Level back with firmly muscled loin and
moderate tuck-up. Skin pliant but not too loose. Serious faults – Light bone; rangy body.
TAIL – Large and full, set high and carried over back or against flank in a three-quarter, full or
double curl, always dipping to or below level of back. On a three-quarter curl, tip drops well
down flank. Root large and strong. Tail bone reaches hock when let down. Hair coarse, straight
and full with no appearance of a plume. Disqualification – sickle or uncurled tail.
FOREQUARTERS AND HINDQUARTERS – Forequarters – Shoulders strong and powerful with
moderate layback. Forelegs heavy-boned and straight as viewed from front. Angle of pastern 15
12
degrees forward from vertical. Faults – Elbows in or out; loose shoulders. Hindquarters – Width,
muscular development and comparable to forequarters. Upper thighs well developed. Stifle
moderately bent and hocks well let down, turning neither in nor out.
DEWCLAWS – On front legs generally not removed; dewclaws on hind legs generally removed.
COAT – Double coated. Undercoat thick, soft, dense and shorter than outer coat. Outer coat
straight, harsh and standing somewhat off body. Hair on head, legs and ears short. Length of
hair at withers and rump approximately two inches, which is slightly longer than on rest of
body, except the tail, where coat is longest and most profuse. Fault – Any indication of ruff or
feathering.
COLOR – Any color including white, brindle, or pinto. Colors are brilliant and clear and marking
are well balanaced, with or without mast or blaze. White Akitas have no mask. Pinto has a
white background with large, evenly placed patches covering head and more than one-third of
body. Undercoat may be different color from outer coat.
GAIT – Brisk and powerful with strides of moderate length. Back remains strong, firm and level.
Rear legs move in line with front legs.
SIZE – Males 26 to 28 inches at the withers; bitches 24 – 26 inches. Disqualification – Dogs
under 25 inches; bitches under 23 inches.
TEMPERAMENT – Alert and responsive, dignified and courageous. Aggressive toward other
dogs.
DISQUALIFICATIONS:
Butterfly nose or total lack of pigmentation
Drop or broken ears
Noticeably undershot or overshot
Sickle or uncurled tail
Dogs under 25 inches; bitches under 23 inches
Approved effective April 4, 1973
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COST OF AN AKITA RESCUE DOG
INITIAL VET COSTS $40 - $50 Office visit (occasionally waived, depending on vet)
$20 - $40 Heartworm test
$20 - $40 Fecal test
$15 - $30 Rabies vaccination
$15 - $30 DHLPP vaccination
$20 - $60 Microchipping
$130 - $250 TOTAL (occasionally less if discounted)
Spaying/Neutering $170 - $350 Male or female at vet with discount
The above figures are the cost barring any complications such as extra long uterine horns, pregnancy, undescended
testicles, or damage done by abuse.
Using the above figures, the initial cost for an unsprayed/unneutered animal with no surgical complications can
range as follows:
Minimum: $300 Maximum: $600
MAINTAINENCE COSTS (based on 30-day month)
Monthly Daily
$11 $.37 Flea preventative
$8 $.25 Heartworm preventative
$50 $1.70 Dry dog food (5-7 cups daily)
$69 $2.32 TOTAL COSTS
We have used commercial boarding kennels for interim boarding at times due to lack of space in foster homes, or
lack of foster homes. The daily rate is $10 - $16 per day and this includes a discount afforded to Akita Rescue.
The costs of a basically healthy rescue dog with unknown medical history, unsprayed/unneutered for 3 months is:
IN FOSTER HOME IN BOARDING KENNEL
$500 – 800 $630 - $1020
The $250 - $350 donation requested by Akita Rescue when a dog is adopted barely covers a
one-month stay, much less the average 3 months an Akita usually stays with us. The only
way we make up the difference is out of volunteer’s pockets, donations from concerned,
caring Akita owners and breeders, and by fund-raising activities (fun match, merchandise,
calendars, and other Akita specialty items).