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    Future Concept Lab

    Real Footwear Trends

    edited by Francesco Morace and Paolo Ferrarini

    Three paths for the future

    of the European footwear industry

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    Project funded by European Commission - 6 FP Priority IST - NMP

    (Manufacturing, Products and Service Engineering 2010) Project N 507378

    32

    1

    Introduction by Francesco Morace 5

    Methodological Note 9

    The Snap Shoe 13

    MindStyles Essential & Existential 14

    Sixth & Sense 16

    Aesthetic Trends Progressive Process 18

    Artistic Articles 21

    Consumption Trends Combo Consumption 24Tailor Territory 27

    Future Trend Super Material 31

    The Bio Shoe 35

    MindStyles Core & Care 36

    Crucial & Correct 38

    Aesthetic Trends Materic Matrix 40

    Original Origin 43

    Consumption Trends Narrative Nutrition 46

    Ethic Ethnic 49

    Future Trend Huge Interlace 53

    The Active Shoe 57

    MindStyles Think & Touch 58

    Sixth & Sense 60

    Aesthetic Trends Therapeutic Technology 62

    Detournement Details 65Consumption Trends Experimental Expression 68

    Fast Fascination 71

    Future Trend Massive Details 75

    Conclusions by Francesco Morace 79

    Authors 83

    CEC-Made-Shoe Project Partners 84

    Summary

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    10 11

    Methodological Note Methodological Note

    Relevant Strategic Aesthetic Consumption

    MindStyle Concepts Trends Trends

    Essential Life Progressive Combo

    & Existential Simplification Process Consumption

    The Snap Shoe The Snap Shoe

    Sixth Material Artistic Territory

    & Sense Hyperception Articles Tailor

    Core Core Materic Narrative& Care Health Matrix Nutrition

    The Bio Shoe The Bio Shoe

    Crucial Positive Original Ethic

    & Correct Technology Origin Ethnic

    Think Hyper- Therapeutic Experimental

    & Touch Being Technology Expression

    The Active Shoe The Active Shoe

    Sixth Perceptiv- Detournement Fast

    & Sense Insight Details Fascination

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    113

    The Snap Shoe

    What is a Snap Shoe

    The future competitiveness of the European shoe

    industry requires rethinking footwear productconstruction from scratch in order to create new

    components and novel shoe assembling processes.This will result in ideas to make shoes based on

    advanced forming of materials, welding insteadof stitching (no seams no bonding), rethinking

    of the last tool.

    The seamless shoe concept is a basic question infootwear and it implies a complete breakthrough

    in the actual manufacturing process: do we really

    have to stitch or bond components? Novel andalternative structural product constructions as

    well as new processes and new technologies shouldbe applied to implement this new concept.

    This sub task, in redefining the product, will set

    the specifications for the corresponding manu-

    facturing processes, defining in particular mate-rial specifications and technological concepts fora shoe assembly that does not require stitching or

    bonding. This will bring as breakthrough inno-vation the elimination of time consuming and

    no-added value stitch and bonding preparation

    operations. Basically shoe production today consistsof bringing elements (components) of various

    materials together around a physical shape (the

    last) in order to make a fashionable product around

    the foot: the shoe. In this, various productionstages and various manufacturers are involved

    leading to complex production arrangements,transport, intermediate components (lasts) etc.

    The scope of this sub task is to develop a product

    concept based on radically transforming thisprocess, avoiding transport, complex logistics,

    long lead times, components like lasts, stiffenersand similar and radically transforming shoes into

    foot wear. It gives a visionary image of foot-wear

    (elementary called: wear for feet) and a wholenew production process. The goal is to directly

    manufacture the shoe in the correct shape, withoutneeding to form it around a last. The shape of the

    shoe is built in CAD around a virtual last andwith use of new production techniques directly

    created in a multi material combination in the

    correct shape. Such an approach implies a radicalchange in the actual industrial manufacturingprocess to increase competitiveness by reducing

    production batch size.

    Stockholm

    [Text taken from the Description of Work of the CEC-Made-

    Shoe Project]

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    19

    THE SNAP SHOE

    Allow objects and ideas to grow structurallywithout standardizing.

    Beijing

    Consider the production process as the starting

    point for aesthetics.

    Frankfurt

    18

    Underlining the generative creativity of progres-

    sive processes, production becomes gradually anaesthetic process, and the rigid separation between

    industry and handicraft progressively looses its

    meaning. The aesthetic dimension is acknowl-edging the aesthetic processes in terms of produc-

    tion, materials and economic factors that presidethe industrial work, while at the same time fighting

    against homologation, as happens in many Coun-tries with projects that involve whole communi-

    ties in the creative production. For this reason

    working on the thin line that divides talent fromgenius is a key issue. Applied creativity has to faceeither designers ability and technical competence,

    thus producing brilliant innovation in production.Focusing ones own energy on observing the brain

    and the hands and their know-how, distancing

    oneself from the myth of the machine that has tobe basically considered a mere operational tool, in

    order to maximise its creativity and innovativevocation. Producers and designers have to re-think

    productive processes through their gradual tech-nical and aesthetic unravelling, thus establishing

    a corner stone for the new aesthetics in which func-tion and form deeply intertwine and create a virtuous

    circle that feed innovative visions. Applying theProgressive Process is a new way of thinking in

    order to define the extension lines of brands, as forexample Bisazza Ceramics already did with the

    launch of its jewels collection.

    Using the whole productive process in the various

    phases of business, even on communication andselling, is a mean to express the creative tension

    of the brand, not only a way to guarantee the quality

    of the product. The creative minds are consideringteamwork as a fundamental element that contributes

    to the market value of the product: the creative

    result in fact is more the sum of different comple-mentary steps than the product of a single person,

    and has to be finalised through a common purposein order to be maximised.

    THE SNAP SHOE1.

    Aesthetic TrendProgressive Process

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    21

    THE SNAP SHOE

    Today its important to focus on the widespread

    experience of an emerging class with a highcreative and cultural sensibility. They manifest

    a growing request for products and experiences

    marked as artistic articles that embellish theeveryday life.

    Considering the article as a product thatcompletes the experience, reconciling it with

    the values of radical modernity that was firstlyintroduced by the artistic avant-garde of the 20th

    Century, following the example of Marcel

    Duchamps ready made. Emma Jeffs Digital Laceis also a good contemporary example.Freeing industrial objects from the diktat of

    anonymous equality by entering them on thefree territory of similarities. Thus the series

    becomes unique and the unique faces the neces-

    sity to be part of a group or series, like in therestored objects of 5.5 designers. This can be a

    leading concept for the Snap Shoe.Looking at the aesthetics of Artistic Articles as

    an experimental vital space able to enhance thecombinatory needs of customers, seeking for

    unique emotions and sensations as well. Eventhe world of technology has opened up to this

    experimental way, as shown in thousands of acces-sories for the iPod.

    Proposing an educational aesthetic able to trans-form ordinary know-how in something extraor-

    dinary is necessary for the Snap Shoe. Technical

    abilities and manual work allow at the same time

    to reproduce objects and to exert imagination andcritical thought, as demonstrated by the success

    of model making and educational publications.

    Using the artistic feeling to enhance the valueof everyday life, thus creating a happy experi-

    ence that combines ethic and aesthetic, declares

    the end of the avant-gardes and expands theartistic thought in order to rediscover hidden

    affinities and lost similarities between things.Working on the personalisation of the series,

    thus breaking the taboo of perfection. However,functional quality of objects will be anyway a

    fundamental element in order to mark the success

    of limited series and unique objects. Connectingart and life through artistic icons that acquirean active role within the everyday practice. The

    real charismatic objects seem therefore to bethe most common objects of the daily life.

    Aesthetic TrendArtistic Articles

    43

    20

    1.THE SNAP SHOE

    Make visible the origins of the process whenoriginal.

    London

    Use a layering thinking for product aesthetics.

    Cannes

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    23

    THE SNAP SHOE

    Introducing an artistic touch in products thatmark the banal character of the everyday life.

    London

    Relying on surprise and irony to create products

    with a strong character.

    London

    21

    22

    1.THE SNAP SHOE

    Thinking on which daily rituals and occasionscould be represented by aesthetics.

    London

    Projecting and producing objects that represent

    an aesthetic punctuation of experience.

    Frankfurt

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    29

    THE SNAP SHOE

    Decline the component of passion and personalwhim, with the competence and the variety of a

    new artistic handicraft.

    Cannes

    Elaborate and follow a new knowledge of excel-

    lence, that reunite cultural refinement and authenticprocesses.

    New York

    21

    28

    1.THE SNAP SHOE

    Offer made to measure products that demon-strate the art of choice and life: the company and

    the client come to an agreement connected to the

    quality of life.

    Cannes

    Develop, rediscover or support the forms of

    culture that come from the territory of birthor production.

    New York

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    30 31

    Tailoring

    Speed

    Artistic Touch

    Friendliness

    Sensorial Perception

    Quick and Qualitative

    Life Simplification

    THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

    The research carried out in the area of materials

    in recent years has revolutionised the aestheticfruition of objects. Todays challenge is that of

    applying innovative materials to new projects and

    manufacturing processes. We have been witnessingthe emergence of a new priority in which the final

    product is not the result of the process but a toolthrough which it is possible to get to know new

    materials and textures. New Yorks famous GagosianGallery has dedicated an exhibition to the Australian

    designer Marc Newson. For this occasion, Newson

    has reinterpreted his historical pieces through therelevance of the raw materials, bringing the worldof industrial design closer to that of artistic exper-

    imentation.From the more consolidated artisan traditions up

    to the most alternative man made experiments,

    the unique property of a material becomes theabsolute protagonist of a truly new aesthetic expres-

    sion. They look like living elements capable ofexpressing their identity through the surface (hence

    through the sensorial dimension) as well as throughtheir substance (functional performance).

    The Israeli companyAnimi Causa, designs andmanufactures objects for the home and the office

    giving privilege to eccentric materials like eco-compatible foams, metals and elastic laces char-

    acterised by an innovative performance. Thanksto a system of 120 integrated spheres, Feel is a new

    experience of sitting that allows one to change

    positions and sensations.

    Considered as the decade that focused exclusivelyon image, the 80s have in fact given a boost to

    a series of research studies in the world of aesthetics

    that is now proven to be very strategic and crucialto all sectors. From the point of view of material

    experimentation, our inheritance of the patrimony

    of the 80s is still actively contributing to the creationof new stimuli.

    1.

    Final Keywords The future of the Snap ShoeSuper Material

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    43

    33

    THE SNAP SHOE

    Stockholm

    San Francisco

    21

    32

    1.THE SNAP SHOE

    New York

    Milan

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    235

    The Bio Shoe

    What is the Bio Shoe

    Scope of this task is the development of a completely

    biodegradable shoe to meet the expectations ofenvironmentally concerned customers and enabling

    a green manufacturing approach towards a nullresidue industry. The BioShoe design will be based

    on biodegradable materials (construction mate-rials and adhesives) and environmentally friendly

    manufacturing technologies and procedures.

    The objective of this task is to define the newproduct design, assembling and manufacturing

    methods appropriate for biodegradable materials

    and adhesives. The specific chemical and phys-ical properties of biodegradable materials require

    new solutions in terms of design (to assure mechan-ical performance) and manufacturing techniques.

    There is limited current use of biodegradable mate-rials in shoe uppers and components.

    Specialists in polymer chemistry, polymer processingand shoe manufacturing will be involved; the chal-lenge will be to develop a fashionable design solu-

    tion with materials that have lower mechanicalperformance (than traditional synthetic ones).

    This task is aimed at transforming footwear from

    a static and passive element to a dynamic andactive device capable of adapting to the user and

    to environmental conditions and of protecting in

    a smart and active way the wearers foot health.

    To achieve this objective different fundamentalresearch areas will be developed where radical

    innovations will be achieved.

    New

    Yo

    rk

    [Text taken from the Description of Work of the CEC-Made-

    Shoe Project]

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    2

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    2

    1

    41

    THE BIO SHOE

    Arguing a biological vision of materials and theirappliances.

    London

    Using the matter as a laboratory for formal

    inspiration.

    Shanghai

    40

    Today its necessary to re-define the modern sense

    of matter, its consistency and its tangible aspects,thus acknowledging to the materic structure of

    objects a specific energetic dimension, which consti-

    tutes its peculiarity. The most advanced creativeminds are working on the very same vital charac-

    teristics of matter, which metabolism possess specificrules that follows a materic biological matrix

    transferring punctual qualities. Today this trendinvolves the deep structure of the material world

    and is represented for example by the most advanced

    projects of urban recycling. Producers should stim-ulate the visions and perspectives of designersthrough the specific characteristics of any single

    material, thus challenging the aesthetic thresholdsthat matter could enhance. In this way the artifi-

    cial is provided with a soul, working on the qual-

    ities of materials and on the environmental care,thus constituting a point of reference for the most

    advanced recycling projects. Experimenting andenhancing the combinatory qualities of matter, will

    give birth to incredible aesthetics. The seek fornew cults will be able to represent the extraor-

    dinary on the domain of a new material form, ashappened with the Breil extension line on metal

    jewels, which aim was to challenge the passagefrom technical products towards fashion. In most

    of its projects, the Italian product designer GaetanoPesce explores materials through their symbols,

    allowing them to express themselves in an innov-

    ative way, through the overwhelming character of

    volumes, forms, textures and colours.

    THE BIO SHOE2.

    Aesthetic Trend

    Materic Matrix

    THE BIO SHOE2 THE BIO SHOE

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    THE BIO SHOE

    Carefully consider the original meaning paying

    particular attention to its authentic origin andtherefore to its very distinctiveness: today the

    added value resides in the originality of the origin.

    For example, Driade has pushed different designersto work of the value of the product origins.

    Underline that today the sense of continuity andof the origins is very strong and supported by the

    presence of some brands characterised by thequality of their product origins: this has to be a

    drive for the Bio Shoe. Discontinuity and diver-

    sity emerge every day from a plurality of the origins,that propose a radical aesthetic which growsthroughout time multiplying itself according to

    the parameters of complexity.Todays most advanced projects absorb and

    metabolise the aesthetics related to ethnicity and

    cultural diversity, giving life to an aesthetic char-acterised by the Original Origins which includes

    regeneration projects, as the Kusturicas propo-sition of new orthodox churches. Work in

    creative terms on the deconstruction and recon-struction, as the Chinese artist Zhang Dali proposes

    by inserting his own aesthetic vision in the processof the building Chinese industry. The Bio Shoe

    should follow this idea.Clarify and deepen the harmony and at the same

    time the difference between what is original(unique and distinctive) and authentic in order

    to face with clarity the problem of imitation and

    of the fake: originality can be imitated, but authen-

    ticity cannot.Reflect on the consequences of aproduct origins onto the product aesthetics and its

    packaging, reflecting on the necessity for expressing

    this originality through the package, as it is happeningfor lots of culinary quality products (e.g. good quality

    food now proposing transparent packaging). Elab-

    orate more or less direct forms of communicationin order to emphasise or simply tell the origins and

    the stories related to Companies, to the Countriesof origin and their products.

    Aesthetic Trend

    Original Origin

    4

    3

    42

    2.THE BIO SHOE

    Advancing new combinations between traditionaland new materials.

    Milan

    Experimenting with the materic surfaces of objects

    instead of their forms only.

    New York

    THE BIO SHOE2 THE BIO SHOE

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    4

    3

    45

    THE BIO SHOE

    Imagine aesthetic languages that are linked tothe past but that do gratify present needs.

    Cannes

    Allow the tradition and the well-rooted techniques

    to become an innovative element of the product.

    London

    2

    1

    44

    2.THE BIO SHOE

    Approach the cultural roots of products in anexpressive and radical manner.

    Cannes

    Emphasize the genius loci and the know how of

    specific territories and communities.

    Milan

    THE BIO SHOE2 THE BIO SHOE

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    46

    The ever more important value of imagination

    and the story telling dimension is linked to thelarge scale public participation in recent years to

    literature festivals, public readings of classics,

    filmography and its historic characters.As with the use of DVD and their multi story

    structure, the radical consumer today tends moreand more to recreate in terms of modernity detailed

    contents, products and services, but also the worldthat rotates around these. Sharing stories and

    personal tales with others (including companies)

    and have the possibility to know more about whatyou are buying is the new consumers increasingneed: the company spaces or museums, the state-

    ment of a plot that has involved the brand withits episodes and oddities, contribute to this narra-

    tive unfolding of the identity.

    Even specialised publications on the history ofcompanies have also become more appreciated.

    The growth in interest in recent years for film-documentaries, the extraordinary success of tales

    of literature, stories, religion that use the prin-cipal day to day characters as a link, are a signal

    of the return to a encyclopaedic and series basedculture, with the support of DVD that facilitates

    the organic and ordered transmission of infor-mation. The packaging often transforms into a

    container of stories.Consumption as a new area of reality to deepen

    is having a rapid development through press inves-

    tigation and specialised TV channels. Daily news-

    papers and magazines at this point dont just targetthe days news (for this there are free magazines,

    Internet and TV) but t hrough investigation,

    comments and opinions that often influencereality profoundly.

    THE BIO SHOE2.

    Consumption Trend

    Narrative Nutrition

    47

    THE BIO SHOE

    2

    1Recover with attention the story of Companies,regions and every single product, that nearly

    always contain elements to learn from.

    New York

    Understand that the dynamics of advanced

    consumption are nourished through the logicof individual tales and shared themes.

    New York

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    THE BIO SHOE2.THE BIO SHOE

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    4

    3

    51

    Develop a new sensibility to be applied on theongoing competition between different markets

    and cultures.

    New York

    Consider fair trade as a real support for the local

    production of handicrafts on the southern partof the world.

    New York

    2

    1

    50

    2.

    Point out the distinctive values of culture thatdont have a global influence but that could however

    contribute to an intercultural enrichment.

    Milan

    Acknowledge the integral value of some behav-

    iours and consumption habits that come fromdifferent cultures.

    Cannes

    THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE2.

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    52 53

    Cultural Values

    Regional Roots

    Innovative Shapes

    Organic Aesthetics

    Integral Story

    Wellness

    Comfort

    Everyday Paradise

    In the last decade, the dynamics of cultural polli-

    nation have permeated the world of project andthe overall approach to the use and circulation

    of products which present a very sophisticated

    aesthetic. The ability to construct an originalvision of the design projects merges with the act

    of reviewing it on the basis of peoples daily needsfor having products highly personalised. Cultural

    pollination has become a natural phenomenonin peoples life, crucial to the realisation of ones

    own style and identity. The iPhone by Apple

    proposes a range of multiple services (phone,mp3, videos, camera and internet navigation)and gives users the opportunity to highly person-

    alise the performance.The overlapping of different materials constantly

    influences peoples aesthetics and styles, by the

    sophisticated fusion of worlds that are culturallydistant to each other and that can now mix thanks

    to designers creative suggestion pushed by peoplesdesire for exploring cultural differences. In this

    context, it is important to preserve the wholepicture of a project/product usage in order to

    easily merge very different elements that consumershave yet to assimilate. After the worldwide success

    ofSin City, another masterpiece inspired by FrankMiller demonstrates the tendency to blur the

    boundary between cinema and cartoon, betweenhistory and fiction. In the movie 300, aesthetic

    language and epochs of narration mix up, giving

    life to a unique interlace.

    The creative and visionary spirit of the world ofart has now influenced peoples daily life aesthetics

    and the world of design in general. Accessories,

    for example, become body decorations and looklike sculptures that have been created to generate

    a strong visual impact and not necessarily a high

    degree of functionality.

    Final Keywords The future of the Bio Shoe

    Huge Interlace

    THE BIO SHOE2.THE BIO SHOE

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    4

    3

    55

    San Francisco

    San Francisco

    2

    1

    54

    New York

    Milan

    3

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    357

    The Active Shoe

    What is the Bio Shoe

    This task is aimed at transforming footwear from

    a static and passive element to a dynamic andactive device capable of adapting to the user and

    to environmental conditions and of protectingin a smart and active way the wearers foot health.

    To achieve this objective different fundamentalresearch areas will be developed where radical

    innovations will be achieved.

    This sub task is aimed at defining requirementsand specifications for new families of materials

    to be used in the active shoe, such as materials

    with physical and chemical behaviors dependenton the service environment and type of load.

    The objective of this task is the development ofsensing systems to monitor physiological, mechan-

    ical or general health parameters which will berelated to the prevention of foot problems or to

    feedback micro-actuators to improve comfort or

    shoe functionality.

    They will improve consumer quality of life and

    contribute to health and safety of specific groupsof consumers, through the introduction of high

    tech functionalities in shoes. On-line and contin-

    uous measurement of foot load and environmentare to be considered as breakthrough innovations,

    in a market scenario in which commercial systems

    are able to perform static and dynamic measure-

    ments but as they are not wireless, measurementscan only be carried out in laboratorial conditions.

    A multidisciplinary team consisting of experts inmaterials, organic chemistry, textiles, micro-

    electronics, medicine, communications and soft-ware will carry out this working line.

    NewYo

    rk

    [Text taken from the Description of Work of the CEC-Made-

    Shoe Project]

    THE ACTIVE SHOETHE ACTIVE SHOE3.

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    5958

    The consumer is overwhelmed by the technolog-

    ical solutions available in the market and has famil-iarised with the idea of a fast changing tech-world.

    People of all ages and social class accept innova-

    tive proposals that are really user-friendly and low-cost. The technological advances in sectors like

    textiles and wearable technology have a very preciseobjective: to reinforce human performance and

    support parts of the body. The current directionrepresents the golden era for digital technology

    and its limitless applications. There is an increasing

    need for interactivity between people in both privateand public spaces and the world of communica-tions is facing the first implications of innovative

    solutions, like the wi-fi spots or RFID tags. Theevolution of the smart home and planet are getting

    more and more close to the peoples desires and

    needs. Nowadays, consumers have enough toolsthat allow them not only to handle but also modify,

    elaborate and so on, electronic sounds, multimediaimages and videos.

    The MindStyles

    Think & Touch 1

    2

    34

    56

    7

    89

    10

    Strategic Concept

    Hyper-Being

    The body becomes the source of inspiration for the new technological products that can rein-

    force ones own mental and physical performance.

    The advances in the fields of nanotechnology and medicine bring into light innovative solutions

    that respect human nature and its needs.

    New solutions allow the protection of the human body and manage to set one free from his/hers

    encumbrances.

    Experimentation and a mix of sophisticated materials, in order to create new typologies of acces-

    sories and clothing that facilitate the body after long-term research.

    Wearable technology has reached its most advanced expression that does not impose techno-

    logical innovation but proposes new rituals.

    The use of the new technological products makes possible the expression of feelings and thoughts

    through the body.

    The research in the field of nanotechnologies brings surprising results that find new applications,

    from cosmetics to sports equipment.

    The daily presence of nano-things, even with few mass-market applications, becomes more

    and more evident.

    The real-time control of a computer or a robot is becoming a reality, mostly for the disabled

    people.

    The mind as the lord of creation, who makes possible the convergence between the human

    body and the machines.

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    THE ACTIVE SHOETHE ACTIVE SHOE3.

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    21

    63

    Emphasize the sensorial experience throughtechnology.

    Beijing

    Consider technology as the facilitator of a ther-

    apeutic character.

    London

    62

    Today we need to understand that the role of tech-

    nology becomes strongly reorganised in regard tothe vision of human and biological landscapes.

    This leads to identify an aesthetic and functional

    area of great importance that is expressed in thetherapeutic vocation of a soft technology, in a

    position to strengthen the demand for new lifequalities, as can be seen more and more in large

    scale producers bathroom accessories and sani-tary fittings. Companies and designers need to

    work on the aesthetics of a not invasive and often

    invisible technology, that incarnates a light andreassuring presence, and works as a butterfly wing:light and powerful, flexible but tangible. On this

    basis we can foresee an aesthetic of TherapeuticTechnology, that is not so much a style but incar-

    nates and expresses a particular view, as happens

    in the integration of sound that Gap has previewedwith musical jackets Hoodio.

    To develop products in which technology putsinto focus emotions is more and more important,

    and represents therefore a concrete help in theexploration of the most mysterious worlds. The

    most advanced projects reside in this case in theperformative potential of the technological processes,

    like in the Adidas_1 shoe that absorbs micro-trauma produced from running in contact with

    various types of surface. Forms of therapeutic tech-nology take part also in so-called soft surgery treat-

    ments that are more and more perceived and lived

    by people as simple aesthetic-health treatments.

    The relationship with technology therefore becomesa fascinating and complex journey towards the

    knowledge of oneself, through the understanding

    that even objects have a soul. The barriersbetween the truth and virtual appear to be more

    and more one the completion of the other.

    Aesthetic Trend

    Therapeutic Technology

    THE ACTIVE SHOE3.THE ACTIVE SHOE

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    65

    Artist and designers today are working on details

    not like a comprehensive, finished, co-ordinateddrawing. It rather embodies the role of the asym-

    metrical creative exception, thus proposing a

    surprising, radical effect. The Active Shoe shouldtend to surprise the consumers.

    Figuring out aesthetics in which the product doesntaim to propose itself as a totally detourningachieve-

    ment. Only a detail could possess this character-istic, thus destabilising the overall rational linear

    function, as happens in D-Licious products.

    The very same nature of modernity exceeds herself,recognising the critical reflexive vitality that thetheory of complexity has made necessary, thus

    proposing an aesthetic of the Detournement Details,as happens in most of the Marti Guixs objects.

    A way of thinking that follows the logic of creative

    chaos more than the rules of structured programmes,as taught by Rem Koolhaas with his projects on

    the urban area. However, this attitude representsmostly a premise for a challenging project than a

    fixed component of the aesthetic projects.Sorting out new products able to propose a creative

    approach in order to cross the borders that existbetween the public and the private sphere. Thus

    leading to a new frontier able to freed imagina-tion that could be used in a useful way on the

    everyday life through the concept of commongood. Using details to re-assemble totality, providing

    the audience with an emotional image as a refer-

    ential point, and consequently transforming the

    unique character of accessories into a personalmark, also in the active dimension. Trans-

    forming useful details into delightful experiences

    that stand in between the internal and the external,the image and the substance, the form and the

    function. Developing attention and sensibility

    towards an anthropology of the everyday life,thus transforming the common language of objects

    into an evolutionary path. Critical sensibility andeven the small daily obsessions become a strategic

    project that carries new meanings and new formsof interaction.

    Aesthetic Trend

    Detournement Details

    43

    64

    Create magic through technology.

    London

    Introduce soft interaction with the products.

    London

    THE ACTIVE SHOE3.THE ACTIVE SHOE

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    43

    67

    Work on elements of wonder and surprise.

    London

    Blend the details with the background.

    London

    21

    66

    Use simple ideas in order to reveal new points ofview.

    Milan

    Pay attention on the small elements that make

    a big difference.

    Beijing

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    THE ACTIVE SHOE3.THE ACTIVE SHOE

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    43

    73

    Create the conditions for a magical and unex-pected encounter with the client, encouraging

    intuition and the coup de foudre, beyond the

    economic value of the product.

    Milan

    Emphasize the attractiveness that enhances an

    essential form of simplicity, expressing a profoundcultural meaning.

    San Diego

    21

    72

    Promote the idea of the bargain service (or evenof the free service) adopting alternative strategies,

    that are explained with clarity to the client.

    New York

    Stimulate the speed of the consumers thinking

    in relation to the shopping activity, and not thespeed of fruition: the instant gratification can

    then last throughout time.

    So Paulo

    THE ACTIVE SHOE THE ACTIVE SHOE3.

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    74 75

    Dynamic Style

    Life Occasions

    Quick Response

    New Functions

    Personal Expression

    Interaction

    The more classic icons of femininity (flowers,

    butterflies, high heels, prints of romantic inspi-ration...), had a powerful come-back to fashion

    and loved, searched for by women of all ages,

    become massive, revealing themselves to beimportant in the definition of new glamour. This

    type of aesthetic has invaded the apparentlydistant worlds of technology, web graphics, indus-

    trial design and artistic installation.The British designer Susan Bradley has for years

    worked on designs of an extremely feminine touch,made of little details that become the heart of each

    project, like with the flower-shaped mirrors, theclothes hangers in the shape of a heel, or the metal

    sheets cut and proposed as tapestry for exteriors.The attraction towards icons, ancient or contem-

    porary symbols is a must for the young generations,

    who remove the ideological or religious aspects,they appropriate them in aesthetic terms in a contin-

    uous game ofhappy combinations. The attractiontowards a surprising and moving aesthetic is a

    consolidated phenomenon that continues to grow.The poetry of de-contextualization and oneiric

    inspiration continues to propose new and unex-pected points of view. Ideated by MTV and Refill

    Magazine, Seven is an itinerant exhibition dedi-cated to skateboard decoration, carried out using

    the seven layers laser technique.Irony represents thefil rouge of this path of sensi-

    bility: today is expressed with all its force through

    the references targeting the universe of the divas

    of all times and the more recognizable feminineicons. The role of new femininity has at this point

    been metabolized and accepted: from being a post-

    feminist claim becomes a daily pleasure, freed fromspecific moments (the evening, celebrations, festiv-

    ities) and a true and proper fun and carefree rite.

    The line of makeup Barbie MAC is made up of aseries of products (chromatically dominated by

    shocking pink) thought for a public of 20 to 30years of age. The irony in reference to the dolls

    iconic world is central to this project.

    Final Keywords The future of the Active Shoe

    Massive Details

    THE ACTIVE SHOE3.THE ACTIVE SHOE

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    43

    77

    San Francisco

    New York

    21

    76

    New York

    Milan

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    83

    Francesco Morace

    Sociologist, writer and journalist, he has worked

    for more than twenty years in the field of socialand market research. He is chairman of Future

    Concept Lab where he is responsible for the Mind-Style and Genius Loci research programmes. Strate-

    gical Consultant of Companies and Institutions,he teaches at the Domus Academy and the Milan

    Polytechnic and holds courses and seminars inItaly and abroad.

    Paolo Ferrarini

    Researcher, expert in art, customs and advanced

    communication and within Future Concept Labresponsible for research dedicated to youth culture.

    Graduated from DAMS Bologna, is specialised inthe study of aesthetics, the evolution of style and

    research methodologies. Has coordinated projectsin different sectors, from that of fashion to tech-

    nology, from communication to retail. He teachesat Domus Academy, Istituto Marangoni and Politec-

    nico di Milano. Co-author with Francesco Moraceand Valentina Ventrelli of the book: Italian Ways,

    Libri Scheiwiller 2003.

    Authors

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    CEC-Made-Shoe Project Partners

    PRANKEICIMSI SUPSI LBORO

    CEC-Made-Shoe Project Partners

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    87

    PRANKE

    Karlstrasse 16 b 76133 Karlsruhe Germany

    Harald Pranke

    www.pranke.com

    PROCALCADOLargo Alminhas Das Barrancas, 97(Feitera) 4415-343

    Pedroso Portugal

    Rui Russo

    www.forever.pt

    SILLER

    Wannenckerstrasse 43 74078 Heilbronn Germany

    Ralf Michi

    www.siller.de

    STEEBHeilbronner Strasse, 4 74232 Abstatt Germany

    Helmut Felzmann

    www.steeb.de

    STRING

    p.za Sraffa, 4 20136 Milano Italy

    Beppe Colli

    www.string.it

    TECNICA

    Via Fante DItalia 56, Giavera del Montello 31040Treviso Italy

    Antonello Marega

    www.tecnica.it

    TNO

    De Rondom 1 5612 AP Eindhoven

    The Netherlands

    Sytze Kalisvaart

    www.tno.nl

    TTSLargo Calesotto, 1 23900 Lecco Italy

    Antonio Avai

    www.ttsnetwork.com

    TUM

    Leopoldstrae 139 80804 Munich Germany

    Ralf Reichwald

    Angelika Bullinger

    www.tum.de

    86

    ICIMSI-SUPSI

    Galleria 2 CH-6928 Manno Switzerland

    Claudio Bor

    Andrea Castrovinciwww.icimsi.ch

    IFW

    Schnebecker Allee 2, 30823 Garbsen Germany

    Berend Denkena

    Stefan Brehmeir

    www.ifw.uni-hannover.de

    INESC

    Campus da FEUP Rua Dr. Roberto Frias, n 378 4200-

    465 Porto PortugalJos Carlos Caldeira

    Luis Carneirowww.inescporto.pt

    INESCOP

    Polgono Industrial Campo Alto P.O. Box 253

    03600 Elda (Alicante) Spain

    Csar Orgils

    Enrique Montiel

    www.inescop.es

    ITIA

    Viale Lombardia, 20/A 20131 Milano ItalyFrancesco Jovane

    www.itia.cnr.it

    ITIA - TPM

    Via Pisani 1, 27029, Vigevano, Pavia Italy

    Emanuele Carpanzano

    www.itia.cnr.it

    ITIA

    Viale Lombardia, 20/A 20131 Milano Italy

    Andrea BallarinoAntonio Diterlizzi

    KYAIA

    Rua 24 de Junho, 453 Penselo 4800 Guimares

    Portugal

    Fortunato Frederico

    Luis Gonalves

    www.kyaia.com

    LBORO

    Ashby Road LE 11 3TU Loughborough UK

    Shahin Rahimifard

    Sujee Jeyapalinawww.lboro.ac.uk

    LIITTO

    Mannerheimintie 76 B, 00250 Helsinki Finland

    Yrjo Gorski

    www.muotikaupanliitto.fi

    LIREL

    Zona Industrial de Arrifana 3701-908 Arrifana

    Portugal

    Manuel ResendeNuo Lopes

    MOLINA E BIANCHI

    Viale Industria 213/5 27029 Vigevano Italy

    Stefano Secchi

    www.molinaebianchi.it

    MAESTRE (HORMAS)

    Polgono Campo Alto C/ Italia, parcela 8103600 -

    Elda (Alicante) Spain

    Jos Ramon Maestrewww.hormasmaestre.com

    MANAS

    Via Tangenziale 14/16 62010 Montecosaro Scalo

    (MC) Italy

    Cleto Sagripanti

    Alessandra Albano

    www.manas.com

    PIEP

    Universidade do Minho Campus de Azurm 4800-058Guimares Portugal

    Antnio Augusto CunhaCarla Simoes

    www.dep.uminho.pt/piep

    PONS

    San Antonio, 120 07730 Alayor Spain

    Santiago Pons Quintana

    Rafael Palliser

    www.ponsquintana.com