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Research on the Detection of Intangible Cultural Heritage Liang-cloth with Handheld SERS WANG Yan a , PANG Qi b , SHI Chang-yong c , LI Xiao-yun d , SHEN Bei e , Gong Yan a * a School of material sciences and engineering, Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029 b School of art and design, Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029 c Foundation department, Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029 d Metrohm China Limited, Beijing 100005 e Guangxi Arts and Crafts Institute, Guangxi, 530012 . Abstract Insitu identification of textile intangible cultural heritage is the basic assurance and efficient method for art researches samples’ authenticity. Liang cloth, one kind of nature indigo dyed Fabric from Dong minority, which includes unique traditional ethnic handcrafts, belongs to intangible cultural heritage. In recent years, due to effects of industrialization, non-natural indigo machined fake Liang cloth haven been being used which causes the fact that art workers have to put a lot of energy into collecting samples. The development of Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) and Handheld Raman technique created a new application for insitu identification of textile. This article points out the Handheld SERS application direction of textile intangible cultural heritage by preparing Au/Ag mixed sol and combining with latest Handheld Raman technique. Keywords Handheld Raman ; SERS ; Liang cloth; intangible cultural heritage (a) fake Liang cloth (b) Liang cloth Figure 1 Surface morphology of liang cloth(x150)

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Research on the Detection of Intangible CulturalHeritage Liang-cloth with Handheld SERS

WANG Yana, PANG Qib, SHI Chang-yongc, LI Xiao-yund, SHEN Beie, Gong Yana*

a School of material sciences and engineering, Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029b School of art and design, Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029c Foundation department, Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029d Metrohm China Limited, Beijing 100005e Guangxi Arts and Crafts Institute, Guangxi, 530012.

Abstract Insitu identification of textile intangible cultural heritage is the basicassurance and efficient method for art researches samples’ authenticity. Liang cloth,one kind of nature indigo dyed Fabric from Dong minority, which includes uniquetraditional ethnic handcrafts, belongs to intangible cultural heritage. In recent years,due to effects of industrialization, non-natural indigo machined fake Liang cloth havenbeen being used which causes the fact that art workers have to put a lot of energy intocollecting samples. The development of Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS)and Handheld Raman technique created a new application for insitu identification oftextile. This article points out the Handheld SERS application direction of textileintangible cultural heritage by preparing Au/Ag mixed sol and combining with latestHandheld Raman technique.Keywords Handheld Raman ; SERS ; Liang cloth; intangible cultural heritage

(a) fake Liang cloth (b) Liang clothFigure 1 Surface morphology of liang cloth(x150)

Figure 2 Vis reflective spectrum of Liang clotha.fake Liang cloth b.nature Liang cloth

Figure 3 Raman spectra of different proportion of nano Au/Ag

Figure 4 Raman spectra of different range in Fig3

a. 500~100cm-1 b.1000~1650cm-1

Figure 5 Raman spectra of different composition and sample

a.indigo b.indirubinFigure 6 Optimized molecular geometrys of indigo,indirubin,by FREQ+RHF ,respectively

Table 1 Comparison of the experimental and theoretical Raman spectra in frequencies and assignmentsCalculated

SERS AssignmentsType/Method FREQ+RHF

Sample Indigo indirubin Liang cloth6-31G 6-311G(d,p) 6-31G 6-311G(d,p)

Raman shift/cm-1

533 520 546 ωC-H

533 β

577 563 558 τ

608 594 581 599 β

676 654 611 β

758 741 764 733 636 β

824 873 646 β

835 828 670 Vs

842 910 912 682 τ

927 τ

935 944 948 752 β

953 761 β+Vs

1016 1025 774 τ

1058 790 τ

1044 1043 β+Vas

1090 819 τ

1127 1105 1114 1117 869 ρ

1179 1178 δas

1281 1219 1207 1017 δas

1323 1293 1260 1099 Vas

1288 1292 1147 Vas

1369 1327 1304 1184 δas

1395 1361 1343 1326 1312 δs+VC-N

1376 1332 δas

1396 δas+β

1420 1376 1359 ρ+ VC-N

1488 1477 1479 1408 Vas+ρ

1503 1518 1532 1533 1425 ρ+ VC-N

1558 1435 ρ+ VC-N

1555 1664 1442 ρ

1642 1644 1462 ρ

1786 ρ

1824 1805 1751 1798 Vas+VC=C

1788 1806 Vas

1863 1885 1884 1833 1578 VC=O+VC=C1948 1976 1961 1935 VC=O+VC=C

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Thanks to the following project support, General project of Beijing Education Commission (KM2015100120095), Beijing Nova Program (No.xx 2014033),QiPaifoundation for Research and protection of intangible cultural heritage (2014-No.03) and Peoject of Guang Xi Science and Technology Department(1355099-7). Thanks to the help of the following teachers and scholars in the direction of the basic knowledge,Professor SL Zhang, Director B Shen, Teacher CY Shi and all our friends. In the end, we would also like to thank the instrument support provided by the Metrohm AG.

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