resurface and peel treatment training

7/30/2019 Resurface and Peel Treatment Training

1/22

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN

RESURFACE

AND PEEL

TREATMENT

TRAINING


2/22

course plan

History of Peels Structure of the skin

and the Life of a Skin Cell

Skin Ageing

Skin Pigmentation

Problematic Skin

How Do Acids Exfoliate the Skin

Deep Peels V Light Peels

Benefits of Light Peels Acids for Different Skin Types

The Acids We Use at MONU

Why Do These AcidsWork Well Together?

Consultations

Aftercare



3/22

The History Of Peels

The use of chemical peels dates back over 3,500 years to the ancientEgyptians, in fact, the formulations used have been found written onpapyrus buried alongside a mummy. It documented the used of milk(lactic acid) along with other ingredients such as grape skin (tartaricacid) salt and honey (pyruvic acid) to lighten the skin, a lighter skinshowed a higher ranking in the social society.

As we know Cleopatra famously bathed in milk, it is believed this is thereason her skin remained so light and bright. Other historical figures

who where known to bathe in milk were Elizabeth I of England and theEmpress Elisabeth of Austria.

Phenol (extracted from coal tar) was used during World War One, itsantiseptic properties were perfect for wound care, which wasparticularly beneficial when treating the rising number of explosionburns to the face suffered by soldiers in the dirty trenches.

The medicinal use of salicylic acid was first documented by the ancientGreeks in about 500 BC. It was used primarily as a pain reliever andfever reducer. Native Americans are known to have widely usedsalicylic acid, in the form of willow bark, to treat pain, fever, andinflammation.



4/22

It is estimated that our skin is made up of around 70 trillion skincells making it the largest organ of the body. It gives us ourshape by supporting all of our internal organs, bones and bloodand provides a waterproof covering. The thickness of the skincan vary, the thinnest skin is around the eyes and eyelids, and isapproximately 0.5mm, the thickest skin is found on the soles ofthe feet and can be up to 4mm in thickness.

The whole process of a single cell moving up through the layersof the skin, takes approximately 28 days. However, after the ageof 36, the age you are, represents the number of days theprocess of keratinisation takes



5/22

Structure Of The Skin


Stratum Germinativum This is the deepest layer of the epidermis,also known as the Stratum Basale. It is within this layer that aprocess called mitosis takes place. The Stratum Germinativum also

contains melanocytes; these are melanin producing cells whichprovide the body its natural protection against harmful UV rays.

Stratum Spinosum This is where the first stage of keratinisationtakes place. Cells are pushed up from the Stratum Germinativumand begin to flatten slightly then start to synthesis keratin

Stratum Granulosum Also called the granular layer, it is in thislayer that keratinisation continues the nucleus within the cellsbecome void and starts to fill with keratin. The cells flatten furtherand continue to move up into the next layer.

Stratum Lucidium This is a clear layer and has 2-3 layers ofirregular clear flat cells. The Stratum Lucidium only tends to be foundin thicker skin, therefore is commonly found on the soles of the feetand the palms of the hands.

Stratum Corneum - This layer is made up of between 15-20 layersof completely flattened cells, these cells are full of the protein keratin.The keratin within these flattened cells, help to absorb water helpingto keep the skin hydrated and preventing water from evaporating.

The Stratum Disjunctum - This is the outer most layer and is part of

the stratum corneum. The dead skin cells from this layer shednaturally over time. We lose between 30,000-40,000 dead skin cellsfrom this surface daily, therefore the skin is constantly renewing itself.The desquamation process unfortunately slows over time the olderwe get this is where acid peels come in!


6/22


Our bodies are made up of around 70 trillion skin cells and on averageeach skin cell gets around 1,000 free radical attacks each day!

Changes within the Epidermis -!The sun is one of the main factors of ageing, UV rays thicken the Stratum Corneum,its because of this that the skin can look thick, leathery and dull.

As we age, cell turnover dramatically slows down which can cause the epidermis tobecome thinner therefore leaving the skin looking delicate, pale in colour and aged.

Langerhans cell die causing the skins immunity to reduce, this means that internal andexternal factors can cause the skin to react and weaken the skins strength andtolerance.

Because Melanocytes decrease within the Epidermis, this causes an increase inmelanogenesis, as a result of this, pigmentation marks on the skin appear.

Changes within the Dermis !Collagen and Elastin production in the Dermis slows down, this can cause the skin tolook thinner and more delicate.

The matrix of the Collagen and Elastin in the Dermis becomes more vulnerable toexternal factors and then can become damaged.

Blood vessels in the Dermis become more fragile, this can cause the skin to be morevascular, especially to the cheeks, nose and chin area. In addition to this, bruising canbe noticed in the skin much more frequently.

Skin conditions area result of internaland externalfactors.

Approximately

20% of our skin isdetermined bygenetic factors

Approximately80% of our skin isdetermined byenvironmental

factors!


7/22


Pigmentation is often noticed within the skin later on in life, in fact all of our sundamage has occurred by the age of 18, but the results of the damage only tends to

surface in our mid to late thirties.Pigment or Melanin is created within the Melanocytes which are found in the Stratum Germinativum, the Melanocytes createMelanin from the amino acid tyrosine, this then triggers a natural protection or defence against the sun often a tan can benoticed on the skin.

Keratinocytes!!Langerhans cells!!Melanocytes!!

Fibroblastes!!Microvasculature!

Stratum corneum

!

Epidermis

!Basal layer

!Dermis

Due to an enzyme Tyrosinase, thiscauses melanin production to speed upwhich results in an over production ofpigment. This then increases theformation of pigmentation patches on

the skins surface. Melanin granules arestored within the melanosomes and thendispersed into finger like projectionscalled dendrites.

In addition to this, UVA rays attackthe Langerhans Cells, theLangerhans Cells work at alerting thebodys immune system whichprotects and warn the skin ofattacking external factors, failure ofthis mechanism can result in chronicinflammatory skin conditions andfurther pigmentation problems.


8/22


Problematic skin can dramaticallyreduce confidence and self-esteem;its a serious skin condition that

needs serious attention andunderstanding to know how to treat iteffectively.

To fully understand this skin type wefirst need to look at what happens inthe the Dermis and Hair Follicle.

The Dermis !The Sebaceous Glands are under the influence of hormoneswithin the body, these hormones are stimulated at puberty soacne can trigger at this age in people. Higher levels of male

hormones cause the skin to produce more oil.

Bacteria called propionic-bacteria or P-bacteria, occursnaturally in the follicles, this bacteria feeds off the sebum andoil within the follicle. In addition to this, if dead skin cellsbuild up on the skin surface which is likely to happen in anacne skin as it has a thicker and waxy consistency, this canthen block the opening of the follicle and cause build up.

This build up and inflammation will cause the formation of

blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts.

Hair Follicle !Hair follicles are perfect areas for bacteria, sebum and dirt tocollect, most hair follicles grow a thick hair which acts like awick, helping to bring all of the bacteria, dirt and grime to thesurface. Acne sufferers tend not to have hair or only veryweak hair growing out of the follicle which causes thesebum, dirt and bacteria to remain within the follicle.

Postule!


9/22

How Do Acids Exfoliate The Skin


Our cells are held

together byintracellular glue,but when an acidis applied to theskin theintercellular glueis dissolvedcausing thesurface layer ofcells to loosenand desquamate.

Desquamation or shedding of the skin

cells, is something that naturally occurseveryday on our skins surface, daily weshed between 30,000 40,000 skincells.

However, sometimes, especially on theface, these dead skin cells can gettrapped or do not shed as quickly asthey should.

By using acids on the skin we are simplyspeeding up this natural process.

Unfortunately, as we age, thisprocess slows causing the skin tolook thicker, dull and less radiant.


10/22

Deep Peels V Light Peels


A light peel (or a superficialchemical peel) will thin or removethe Stratum Corneum, but does notpenetrate deeper than the stratumgranulosum. These peels can becarried out by beauty therapists ornurses and courses are usuallyrecommended.

A deep peel creates necrosis of the epidermis andpapillary dermis and extends into reticular dermis. Thesepeels are only ever applied by cosmetic surgeons and arecarried out once on a patient. A phenol peel can prevent

the new skin from making pigment, therefore results are adramatically lightened skin, but constant SPF applicationis required to protect.


11/22

Benefits Of Light Peels


Acid peels containing Mandelic acid, Glycolic acid, Azelaic,

Arganine and Salicylic acid are most commonly used to treat acneand post acne scarring.

Glycolic acid is usually the best acid to treat milia and thisacid can often be found in eye products to help prevent

and reduce this.

Retinoic (Vitamin A) or a Jessners peel (1-3 coats) can be used,a Jessners peel is a combination of Resorcinol, Lactic Acid andSalicylic Acid.


12/22

Which Acids Are Best To Use On

Different Skin Types?


Caucasian Skins Of course a thorough consultation is required on any skin type before applying a chemical

peel, a Caucasian skin, generally can have a variety of peels as the risk of damaging the pigment production ismuch less than of a black skin.

Sensitive Skin Lactic Acid and Arganine Acid are best for sensitive and delicate skins, this is due to thelarger molecular structure of the acid, therefore remaining only on the skins surface.

Black/Asian/Darker Hispanic Skin If a deeper more aggressive peel is applied to a darker skin, then postinflammatory pigmentation can occur; the skin can become permanently lighter or darker in patches. This isbecause the melanin production in the skin can be damaged. Lighter peels using Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid,Mandelic Acid and Glycolic Acid are recommended.


13/22

The Acids We Use Within Our

Peels


Glycolic Acid isderived from sugarcane and has thesmallest molecularstructure which meansit is more aggressiveon the skin. It works byeffectively dissolvingthe intracellular gluethat holds our skin cellstogether and canremove the top layersof the skin revealingthe fresh new cellsunderneath.


14/22


Lactic Acid is derived from sour milk, it has moisturisingproperties to the skin and well as lightening and brightening thecomplexion. Caution on clients who suffer with a dairy allergy orwho are lactose intolerant.

Salicylic Acid is derived from wintergreen, sweet birch leavesand willow bark. As salicylic acid is oil soluble, it is found in

many acne products. It has a large molecular structure thereforesits on the skins surface.

Citric Acid has a larger molecular structure which means itworks on the skins surface to predominantly lighten andbrighten the skin and generally increase skin health,radiance and vitality. Citric acid is very good to lighten

pigmentation patches and generally even out skin tone andtexture.


15/22


Why Do These Acids

Work Well Together?


16/22

Resurface And Peel Paste And Lotion


Resurface and Peel Lotion 10% (Homecare)15% and 20% (Professional only)!Aqua (Water), Lactic Acid, Alcohol Denat.,Hydroxyethylcellulose, Salicylic Acid, Phenoxyethanol,Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum(Sugar Cane) Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, CitrusAurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus MedicaLimonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Acer Sacchrarum (SugarMaple) Extract.

Resurface and Peel Paste!Propylene Glycol, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sodium CocoylGlutamate, Silica, Coconut Alcohol, Coco Glucoside,Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Limonene, Papain,Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Citrus Nobilis(Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit)Peel Oil, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, CitrusAurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa(Carrot) Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root

Extract, Beta-Carotene, Ascorbyl Palmitate.


17/22


An innovative deep exfoliationtreatment using Glycolic Acid,Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid andCitric Acid to loosen stubborndeadskin cells which cause the skin to

appear dull and lifeless. Byremoving the dead cells, cellularrenewal is stimulated encouraginghealthier cells to be replaced,leaving the skin with a brighter,smoother and clearer appearance.

Preparations required: !Timer, Measuring set, AppropriateCleanser, Appropriate facial Oil, Eye

Make-up Remover, Eye Lotion, ActiveToner, Micro Exfoliant, Resurface and PeelPaste, Resurface and Peel Lotion1, 2 or 3,Hydrating Mask, Rosewood RevivingMist, Eye Cool Gel, Lip Balm, RecoveryBalm.

Frequency: !Peels are beneficial for all skin types as aone off treatment, however if a specificconcern is to be dealt with such as

pigmentation, scarring, acne or fine linesand wrinkles, then a course of peels ishighly recommended. Usually 1 a weekfor 6 weeks, then once a month tomaintain the results Homecare is alwaysadvised to achieve quicker more effectiveresults.

Procedure: !Remove eye make-up and lipstick. Cleanse the face, neck and dcollet withappropriate cleanser and tone (using the Active Toner to degrease the skin) over theface, neck and dcollet. Blot

Apply Micro Exfoliant to the face and neck and remove with warm mitts and blot.

N.B Ensure the skin is dry before application to prevent dilution and avoid anyarea of broken capillaries, mucus membranes around the nasal area, eyelidsand corners of the eyes apply with caution under the eye area. !Apply Recovery Balm to the nostrils and over the lips to protect from the peel, theRecovery Balm can be used in this way on any areas that you do not want the peelto work on such as vascular areas in the face.

Apply 5ml of the Resurface and Peel Paste warm lightly in the hands, then apply tothe face and neck, massage into the face and neck for 2 mins.

Apply 5ml of Peel Lotion 1, 2 or 3 depending on the clients skin type (please refer

to your training manual) on top of the paste and using a fan brush apply the lotiononto the face and neck following the procedure shown on training - the productshould emulsify and whiten.

N.B a slight tingling sensation may be experienced, but this is normal.!Leave on the skin for 7-10 minutes depending on the skin type (thicker problematicskin will benefit from longer treatment time) ensure you communicate with your clientthroughout this stage.

Thoroughly remove with cool sponges.

Apply a thin layer of Hydrating Mask to the face and neck and leave in place for 10

minutes. Apply the appropriate facial oil to the chest and massage the shoulders,after 10 minutes remove the Hydrating Mask with cool sponges.

Spray Rosewood Reviving Mist onto the face and neck.

Apply Eye Cool Gel to eye area, Lip Balm to the lips and an application of RecoveryBalm followed by Hydrating Moisturiser SPF15 to the face and neck.

Treatment Procedure


18/22


1 1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

11

1

2

2

2

2

3

3

3

3

4

4

4 4

5

After the application of thepaste, the peel lotion shouldbe applied with a fan brush tothe face and neck.

Always use the cheeks as aguide, the pinker the cheeksgo, the deeper the peel isworking.

Acid Peel Application


19/22

Consultations

For Peel Treatments

General informationPast treatments

Main concerns

Realistic expectationsWhat skin care are are they currently using?Homecare recommendations



20/22

Homecare recommendations

for best results


Pigmentation / Lightened / Brightened / Radiance / Dull Skins!Eye Make Up Remover, Active Cleanser, Energising Facial Wash, Cleansing Balm, ActiveToner, Micro Exfoliant, Skin Activator, Brightening Boost, Beauty Balm, Skin Perfector,Aromatic Mask, Hydrating Moisturiser SPF 15, Night Renewal Complex, Eye Cool Gel,Collagen Eye Cream, Resurface and Peel Homecare System

!Ageing / Lines / Expression Lines / Wrinkles / Dry / Dehydrated!Eye Make Up Remover, Gentle Cleanser, Delicate Facial Wash, Gentle Toner, Micro Exfoliant,Skin Activator, Pro Retinol Anti Ageing Concentrate, Anti Ageing Concentrate, Moisture RichCollagen Cream, Recovery Balm, Ampoules, Hydrating Mask, Hydrating Moisturiser SPF 15,Extra Rich Night Cream, Eye Cool Gel, Collagen Eye Cream, Active Collagen Eye Patches,Resurface and Peel Homecare System

Oily / Problematic / Acne / Scarring!Eye Make Up Remover, Clarifying Cleanser, Purifying Facial Wash, Clarifying Toner, MicroExfoliant, Skin Activator, Mattifying Lotion, Cleansing Mask, Blemish Treatment, HydratingMoisturiser SPF 15, Eye Cool Gel, Collagen Eye Cream, Resurface and Peel HomecareSystem


21/22

Aftercare/Precautions

When Performing Peels


To ensure you get the most out of your facial treatment it would beadvised you do the following

Avoid applying make-up on the skin after the treatment; ideally the skinshould be left free from make up for the remainder of the day, but certainlyfor at least 2 hours after a treatment.

Avoid the use of sun beds as this could lead to skin damage includingburns, pigmentation or sensitivity.

It is strongly recommended that the appropriate MONU homecare shouldbe used to ensure maximum results within the skin.

Avoid facial waxing, Electrolysis, Laser or IPL for 3-5 days post treatment.Apply MONU Hydrating Moisturiser SPF 15 on a daily basis ifpigmentation is a concern within the skin. Re-apply 2-3 times per day ifexposed to excessive UV exposure.

Avoid the use of a sauna, steam room, swimming, excessive exerciseand any harsh or stripping products on the skin for at least 48 hours.

NB - It is worth being awarethat you may notice for afew days after a MONUResurface and PeelTreatment, that the skin canseem dryer, tighter andpossibly the odd breakoutcan be noticed.

All of these symptoms arenormal and are not causefor concern.

For the best results, acourse of treatment shouldbe undertaken, most usually1 treatment a week for 6weeks, then once a monthto maintain, however iftreating acne, pigmentationand scarring, this can take

longer depending on eachindividual case.


22/22

Many Thanks

for Attending & Good Luckwith Future Treatments


resurface and peel treatment training

Documents