saint laurent rive gauche exhibition
TRANSCRIPT
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Exhibition
SAINT LAURENT rive gaucheLa rvolution de la mode
from 5 March to 17 July 2011
CuratorPierre Berg
Artistic DirectorLoulou de la Falaise
AdviserDominique Deroche
Exhibition designerChristophe Martin
The Fondation Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent dedicates its 15th exhibition
to the prt--porter brand Saint Laurent rive gauche. Nearly seventy looks
will be presented in the exhibition space on avenue Marceau, which has
been remodeled to recapture the decor of the rst Saint Laurent rive gauche
boutique, inaugurated in September 1966 on rue de Tournon.
The Yves Saint Laurent retrospective held at Petit Palais from March to August
2010 retraced 40 years of haute couture creation and plunged 300,000 visitors
into another universe, one of perfection and of daydreams. With the Yves Saint
Laurent rive gauche exhibition, Pierre Berg shows us how Yves Saint Laurent
accomplished a strong social and political act by creating a prt--porter brand
in his name.
Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent
and Loulou de la Falaise
at the inauguration of the rst
Saint Laurent rive gauche boutiqueat New Bond Street in London
10 September 1969
Wesley/Keystone/Getty Images
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An afternoon reservedfor the PRESS :
Thursday 3 March 2011from 2.00 pm to 8.00 pm
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Dress and pull-over, Saint Laurent rive gauche, from the Autumn-Winter collection 1971. Photo Sophie Carre
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A bas le Ritz !Vive la rue !
Saint Laurentrive gauche wasborn from Yves Saint Laurents
will alone to make his creations
accessible to a greater number of
women. The famous designer did
not want to limit himself by only
dressing very rich women, he who
was in touch with the women of
his epoch. Barely ve years after
having founded his haute couture
fashion house with Pierre Berg,
Yves Saint Laurent was to be the
rst designer to launch a prt--
porter brand in his name.
The rst boutique opened at
21 rue de Tournon, in the sixth
arrondissement of Paris, on 26
September 1966. Catherine
Deneuve was the guest of honor at
the inauguration.
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Saint Laurent rive gauche, 1967 collection
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Saint Laurent rive gauche, 1967 collection. Photo DR
Saint Laurent rive gauche, 1971 collection. Photo DR
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A split
This act marked the end of
fashion as it had previously
existed; the end of strict
rules, diktats and rigid codes.
In making this radical choice,
Yves Saint Laurent led the
way to the future by bringing
fashion into social territory.
Chanel had gained the rst
foothold; by forgetting the
corset and proposing pants
to women, she gave them
freedom. Yves Saint Laurent
picked up from where she left
off by sliding the suit off the
shoulders of men and onto
those of women in the form of
Le smoking. In doing so, he
gave women power.
This shock turned the world
of fashion upside down. With
rive gauche, Yves Saint
Laurent did not decide, as
was expected of his time, to
create simplied adaptations
of his haute couture looks.
Instead, he offered stand-alone fashion, which made the prices signicantly
more accessible. He claimed, I want to break away from the idea that haute
couture is the sole image of fashion. Fashion is what can be worn. This is
the main square, not a closed circle (1). He then adapts himself to what afactory is capable of producing, and takes into consideration the constraints
of industrial fabrication. For the designer, the most important step in the rive
gauche creation process is the tting. He explains, a piece of rive gauche
clothing must t everyone, its for this reason that the ttings are, for me, so
important. It is imperative that the fabrication in the factory is impeccable. (1)
(1) In Glamour n64, May 1994, p.86-88
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Saint Laurent rive gauche, 1972 collection. Photo DR
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Saint Laurent rive gauche, circa 1970Navy blue woolen sailors jacket, white silk scarf branded YSL, blue woolen beanie
(Sailors jacket from the Anouschka collection)
Photo (c) Sophie Carre
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Saint Laurent rive gauche offered clothes to accompany free, young and ac-tive women in their everyday lives, to makes up the wardrobe of the contempo-
rary woman. Yves Saint Laurent borrows several uniforms from men, such as:
the sailors jacket, the safari jacket, the suit, the trench coat, military jackets,coachmans capes The knitted dresses are light and casual and the skirts
brightened up with little tops. He wants to offer a style more than a fashion,
to eliminate the superuous in order to attain the essential in proposing basic
looks that women can count on.
At this time, the night is a
party and people go out all
week long. Saint Laurentrive gauche dresses women
from morning to dawn. The
little silver dresses accom-
panied by shiny, gilded tights
are a huge hit and the rive
gauche accessories are
as popular as the clothes.
Leather, laced or braided, is
placed around the neck or
forehead, wide belts are put
around the waist of bohemian
skirts, oppy hats have wide
brims, boots have laces and
are made of bicolor leather,
and thigh boots make an ap-
pearance with long leggings.
The rive gauche woman is
sure of herself and of her
femininity.
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Saint Laurent rive gauche, 1971 collection. Photo DR
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Saint Laurent rive gauche, Spring-Summer collection 1967
Saffron-colored shantung silk dress, silk necktie, square hoop tortoiseshell belt,
sky-blue cotton hat
(Belt from the E2 collection)
Photo (c) Sophie Carre
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Saint Laurent rive gauche, Autumn-Winter collection 1969
Cotton piqu oral dress embroidered with white tassels
(from the Didier Ludo collection)
Photo (c) Sophie Carre
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She goes on to add Djinn benches covered in purple material that had been
drawn one year earlier by a 27 year old designer, Olivier Mourgue, and the
lamps by Japanese-American artist Isamu Noguchi. The clients are welcomed
by a life-size portrait of Yves Saint Laurent, painted by Eduardo Arroyo, one of
the founders of the guration narrative movement who ed Francoist Spain in
1958. The back of the boutique overlooked a courtyard featuring the famous
Nanas sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle, who had just joined a group of new
realists.
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Betty Catroux in a Saint Laurent rive gauche boutique. Photo DR
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Loulou de la Falaise. Photo DR
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SPECIAL PUBLICATIONSFOR THIS EXHIBITION
Exhibition catalogue
SAINT LAURENT rive gauche
La rvolution de la mode
The exhibition catalogue has been published in colla-
boration with Les Editions de La Martinire
Sale price: 35
Format 22.5 x 27cm, 176 pages with approximately 150 illustrations
TextsYves Saint Laurent pntre sur le territoire socialby Pierre Berg
Lembarquement pour rive gauche by Jromine Savignon
La beaut pour tous by Gilles de Bure
The catalogue will be on sale:
- at the Fondations boutique from 5 March 2011
- in bookshops from 17 March 2011
Saint Laurent rive gauche coloring bookEditions ptit Glnat
Large format, 25cm x 36cm : 10
Small format, 12.5cm x 18cm : 5
40 color pages, bilingual edition
The coloring book will be on sale:
- from the Fondations boutique from 5 March 2011
- in bookshops from 17 March 2011
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PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Fondation Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent
5 avenue Marceau, 75116 Paris
Phone: +33 (0)1 44 31 64 00
Exhibition space3 rue Lonce Reynaud, 75116 Paris
Open from Tuesday to Sunday, except public holidays
from 11.00am to 6.00pm (last entry at 5.30pm)
with late night on Thursday until 9.00pm (last entry at 8.30pm)Phone: +33 (0)1 44 31 64 31
Accessible for people with disabilities
7 full price
5 for students, people under 25, seniors (upon presentation of a valid card)
Free for children under 10 and the unemployed
www.fondation-pb-ysl.net
PRESS/COMMUNICATIONFondation Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent
Laetitia Roux Tl. +33 (0)1 44 31 64 [email protected]
Olivier Flaviano Tl. +33 (0)1 44 31 64 [email protected]
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FONDATION PIERRE BERG - YVES SAINT LAURENT
The Pierre Berg -Yves Saint Laurent Foundation opened in 2002 is the result
of forty years of creation. It retraces the history of fashion as created by Yves
Saint Laurent, fashion that reveals the inner workings of society. By making use
of masculine codes, he brought women a sense of security and daring whilst
preserving their femininity. These clothes are part of 20th century history. They
have accompanied womens emancipation in every domain, be it personal,
social or political.
Forty years of passion combined with memories that are transformed into new
projects, thus continuing this long-begun adventure.
The mission of the Pierre Berg -Yves Saint Laurent Foundation, a state-
recognized foundation since the 5th of December 2002, is to:
Conserve 5,000 garments, 15,000 haute couture accessories and 35,000sketches and other items that bear witness to Yves Saint Laurents
creativity;
Organize exhibitions: fashion, paintings, photographs, drawings etc.; Support artistic, cultural and educational projects.
In 2010, the Foundation was given the Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech, savedby Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berg in 1980, and which will become The
Berber Museum in June 2011.
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Coming soon to the FoundationGisle Freund, photographie (working title)
October 2011 January 2012
Exhibitions at the Foundation
David Hockney : Fleurs fraches,2010
Vanit. Mort, que me veux-tu ?, 2010
Les derniers Maharajas, 2010
Le costume populaire russe, 2009
Jean-Michel Frank, un dcorateur dans le Paris des annes 30,2009
David Seidner Photographies, 2008 / 2009
Une Passion marocaine Caftans, Broderies, Bijoux,2008
Yves Saint Laurent Thtre, Cinma, Music-hall, Ballet,2007 / 2008
Yves Saint Laurent Nan Kempner, une amricaine Paris, 2007
Yves Saint Laurent Voyages Extraordinaires, 2006 / 2007
Andr Ostier Photographies,2006
Yves Saint Laurent Smoking Forever,2005 / 2006
Robert Wilson Les Fables de La Fontaine,2004 / 2005
Yves Saint Laurent Dialogue avec lart, 2004
Touring of the Yves Saint LaurentRetrospective, Petit Palais, 2010
Spain
MAPFRE Foundation, Madrid, October 2011 to January 2012
Unites States of America
The Denver Art Museum, Denver, March to June 2012
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Overseas exhibitions
Morocco
Yves Saint Laurent et le Maroc, Jardin Majorelle
Marrakech, du 27 novembre 2010 au 18 mars 2011
Yves Saint Laurent et le Maroc, Villa des Arts, Fondation ONA
Casablanca, du 15 avril au 17 juillet 2011
Brazil
Viagens Extraordinarias, Centro Cultural de Brasil
Rio, 2009
United States of America
Yves Saint Laurent Style, de Young Museum
San Francisco, 2008 - 2009
Canada
Yves Saint Laurent Style, Muse des Beaux-Arts
Montral, 2008
Spain
Dialogo con el Arte, Fondation Caixa Galicia
La Corua, 2008
Sponsorship
Palais de Tokyo : Modules Fondation Pierre Berg - Yves Saint Laurent
Paris Autumn Festival
Nuit Blanche 2010
Amis de Jean Cocteau
Jean Giono Prize
Mdiathque Musicale MahlerIFM (French Fashion Institute)
ANDAM (National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts)
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Blouses, Saint Laurent rive gauche, from the Spring-Summer collection 1969. Photo Sophie Carre