seams and stitch classification
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Seams and stitch classification
© SOFT Student Handouts, By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune
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Seams and classification
Properties of good seam are,
¥ Smooth fabric joints¥ No Missed or Uneven stitches¥ No damage to the material
being sewn¥ Achievement of strength,
elasticity, Durability, security and comfort
¥ Comfortable while garment is in use
What is Seam?A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment.
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Seams and classification
SEAM CONSTRUCTION– Categorized by the British Standards Institution (BS 3870 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991) The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes:
Class 1 -Plain seam & French seam (SI Seam)
Class 2 -Welt seam or Lapped seam
Class 3 -Bound seam Class 4 -Channel seam or flat
seamClass 5 -Ornamental seam Class 6 -Turned hem or edge
neatening Class 7 -Edge stitched seam Class 8 -Enclosed seam
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Seams and classification
SEAMS DESIGNATION
Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits:
0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8;
0.00.00 refers to the material configuration,
01 to 99;
0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material
configurations, 01-99.
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Seams and classification
• Formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of component over the other, these seams are produced with a minimum of two pieces of component.
• Each component is limited on the same end.
PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAMClass 1
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Seams and classification
* In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlaid, one on top of the other with raw edges aligned and sewn together at a designated distance from the raw edge, with one or more rows of stitching.* Produce a single or two step operation* most common for apparel production
PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1
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Seams and classification
PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1
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Seams and classification
* Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
* One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions.
Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam
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Seams and classification•In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlapped with the raw edges exposed (for fabrics resistant to raveling) or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with one or more rows of stitching.* Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish
Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam
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Seams and classification
Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam
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Seams and classification
Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow component. The seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on both ends.
Class 3 Bound seam
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Seams and classification
* In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the seam allowance of one ore more plies of fabric, are covered with a bias binding and stitched with one ore more rows of stitching.
* Used for : finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats, adding interest as a design or decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the motif design of lace.
Class 3 Bound seam
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Seams and classification
Class 3 Bound seam
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Seams and classification
Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other without overlapping. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition to each other on the same level.
Class 4 Flat or channel seam
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Seams and classification
* In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the fabric plies are abutted or just slightly overlapped and joined together with stitching that covers the joint. Flat seams do not contain seam allowances, reducing fabric usage but increasing thread quantity.
* Used for: close fitting garments where the seam allowance may put pressure on the body, high-stretch fabrics, athletic apparel, shape wear, undergarments, lingerie, thermal underwear, swimwear, sweatshirts with side panels or with raglan sleeves, eliminating bulk at seams, seaming pelts of fur
Class 4 Flat or channel seam
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Seams and classification
Class 4 Flat or channel seam
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Seams and classification
A seam class for decorative sewing on garments. Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component, with unlimited edges on both ends.
Class 5 Ornamental Seam
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Seams and classification
* In this category of seams that add ornamentation to one or more plies of fabric by creating straight or curved lines or a designated design.
* Used for: adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted pleating, decorative stitching
Class 5 Ornamental Seam
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Seams and classification
Class 5 Ornamental Seam
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Seams and classification
Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening. Seams are produced with one piece of component. This seam has one limited edge on one end.
Class 6 Turned hem or Edge neatening
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Seams and classification
•In this category of seam constructed with one or two plies of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment or item. There are three finishing types within the classification.
first, secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by stitching, either on the face or back.
-second, stitching is used at the edge or to cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded.
-third, applies a binding on a single ply of a seam allowance to finish raw edges.
Class 6 Turned hem or Edge neatening
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Seams and classification
Class 6 Turned hem or Edge neatening
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Seams and classification
A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part.
Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends.
Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam
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Seams and classification
Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam
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Seams and classification
Only one piece of component involved in construction the seam, stitches are applied on its edge/s.
Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited edge on two ends.
Class 8 Enclosed Seam
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Seams and classification
Class 8 Enclosed Seam
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Stitch and classification
What is stitch?
British standard 3870, defines stitch as: One units of conformationresulting from one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping,Interlooping or passing into or through the fabric or material.
Intralooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop formedby the same thread.
Interlooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a different thread.
What is Stitch type?A series of recurring stitches of one configuration is defined
as a stitch class or type.
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Stitch and classification
100 Class StitchesSingle Thread Chainstitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper
101 Class One ThreadBasting, or light
construction
103 Class One ThreadBlindstitch for
Hemming
104 Class One ThreadBlindstitch for
Hemming
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses
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Stitch and classification
202 Class One ThreadBasting, Tacking or
Repairs
205 Class One ThreadPick Stitch - Topstitching
200 Class StitchesSingle Thread Hand Sewn Stitches Using One Needle Thread
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses
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Stitch and classification
301 Class Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies
304 Class Two ThreadZig-Zag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch
306 Class Two Thread Blind Stitch
315 Class Two Threads"Three Step Zig-Zag;
a stretch lockstitch with more stretch
300 Class StitchesTwo or more Thread Lock Stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses
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Stitch and classification
401 Class Two ThreadsSeaming Multiple Plies with moderate stretch
404 Class Two ThreadsTopstitching or
Seaming with stretch
406 Class Three Threads"Bottom Cover Stitch;
a (greater) stretch chainstitch
400 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Chain Stitches Using One or More Needle Threads and One or More Looper Threads
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses
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Stitch and classification
501 Class One ThreadOne Needle Overedge
stitch for Serging / "Blanket Stitch"
502 Class Two ThreadOne Needle Overedge
stitch for Serging
503 Class Two Thread
Overedge stitch for Serging with
Crossover on Edge of Fabric
500 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses
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Stitch and classification
504 Class Three ThreadOveredge stitch for Serging and Light
Seaming
512 Class Four Thread
Mock Safety Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits
c 514 Class Four Thread
Overedge Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses
500 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)
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Stitch and classification
515 Class Four Thread
True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens
and Knits
516 Class Five Thread
True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens
and Knits
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses
500 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)
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Stitch and classification
602 Class Four ThreadCoverStitch or Seaming Knits
605 Class Five ThreadCoverStitch or Butt-
Seams
607 Class Six ThreadWide CoverStitch or
Butt-Seams
600 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Coverstitches
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses
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Stitch and classification
701 Class One Thread Lockstitch Tacking
700 Class StitchesSingle Thread Lockstitch Using One Needle Thread and Rewinding Bobbin
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses
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Stitch, Seams and classification
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