Seed Starting and Transplanting

by Chris Zbiden

Kittitas County Master Gardener

507 Nanum St., Ste 2

Ellensburg, Wa 98926

509-962-7507

http://county.wsu.edu/kittitas/gardening/pages/Master_Gardeners.aspx

Extension programs and employment are available to all without discrimination. Evidence of noncompliance may be reported through your local Extension office.

Why start seeds?

• Jump on the season • Save money

– seed packages are sold by oz. or lb., not 1 seed

• Pick a variety that is not sold at the local store – better control of stock

• Know where your plants have been – acclimated to your area

• Just fun – watch them grow

• Help children learn – let them help

• Share plants with neighbors, co-workers, friends – too many starts - introduce

someone to gardening with your gift

Why to not start seeds • No time

– working, other household chores, dogs need a walk

• No space – no windowsills or

southern exposure • Don’t want 12 tomato

plants – buy only as many starts as

you need

• Dog might eat them – really?

• Windows are cold – poor germination

Not all seeds need a head start • Maturity date

– check your seed packages – radishes 25-60 days – lettuce 45-60 days – pumpkins 65-75 days – tomatoes 70-85 days

• Hardiness – check your seed packages – tender plants will be killed by frost Some don't transplant well – beans, corn, cucumbers, peas, squash,

watermelon

Start seeds inside or outside? Inside

• Using cells or flats • Egg or recycled cartons

– sterilize with 10% bleach solution

Outside • Cold frames • Green house • Garden area

27greenbriar.com

themicrogardener.com

moplants.com

Starting seeds inside ... it’s easy and fun!

• Soil – potting mix – not garden soil – it is too

heavy and compacts • Containers

– flats, cells or pots • Warmth and light

– windowsill, grow lights or heat mats

• Water – cold or warm

• Seeds – What grows in my area?

How to pick your seeds

• Know your climate – zone chart/frost pockets

• Space limitations – What room do you have?

• Eating habits – What do you eat?

• Production needs – canning, freezing, eating

What grows in your area?

• Hardiness – tender vs. hardy

• Micro-climate – know your yard – soil pH 6.5 to 7

• Season length – know the length between

last and first frosts

Seed viability Are the seeds I'm using still good?

seeds are baby plants in hybernation different seeds last different times – from 1 to 5 years for vegetables seed viability is related to storage conditions – in the dark with less than 50% humidity and less than 50° F Vegetable years

asparagus 3 bean 3 beet 4 broccoli 5 brussel sprouts 5 cabbage 5 carrot 3 cauliflower 5 celery 5

Vegetable years collard 5 corn, sweet 1 cucumber 5 eggplant 5 kale 5 leek 1 lettuce 5 muskmelon 5 mustard 4

Vegetable years onion 1 parsley 2 parsnip 1 pea 3 pepper 4 pumpkin 4 radish 5 spinach 5 tomato 4

Germination

• Different for all seeds – about 2 weeks – some herbs are longer

• Soak 24 hours ahead – cuts germination to one week – small seeds – not easy or fun

because they clump when wet

• Last year's seeds – test them first

wet 2 paper towels • place 10 seeds between towels• keep wet until seeds sprout • check germination rate

Here we go… starting seeds inside

collect planting medium and containers sow seeds – packet tells you the right depth spray water – damp, not soggy sunlight – place in window with southern exposure or place

grow lights12 to 15 inches above soil surface air circulation – cover to keep moist air in; don't place trays

over a heating vent temp. 65º to 70º – too cold will not sprout; too hot will dry out

Hey…they came up!!!

• First sign – false leaves/seed still on?

• True leaves – 2nd pair of leaves – pot up when 1” to 2” tall

• Turn seedlings for light – they lean towards the light

so turn trays to encourage straight stems – raise grow lights as seedlings

get taller • Water

– damp, but not soggy – fine for soil crust to dry out

once you remove cover to increase air circulation

What went wrong? • Damping off

– 2 weeks after germination – fungus infection – plants “lay down” in a

day's time

• Prevention – Sterilize! soil and

containers

Leggy seedlings

• Stems are weak and spindly

• Causes

– too much warmth, not enough sun

– too much nutrients – too much calcium – greenhouse effect – don’t coddle

Is legginess a bad ‘thing”?

• Yes – wind will break the stem – plants will “fall” over – pets may break the stem – plants will usually remain

weak • and No

– tomato family can generate roots on the stem (peppers, eggplants, tomatoes)

– best to bury these leggy stems deep to encourage rooting

First transplant

• Divide seedlings • Pot up into a larger

container • Plants stay in this pot

until planted outside

• How to pot up? – handle plants by their leaves,

not delicate stem – keep same soil level on the stem – gently firm soil around roots – leave soil ¼ inch down from

container rim – water from bottom with weak

fertilizer solution – watch them grow!

Hardening off • Toughens up starts by

producing a thicker cuticle • Stops shock, trauma of

planting into unpredictable environment (think wind and temperature extremes)

• When? about a week before planting into garden

– carry outside to a shady, protected spot – leave a couple of hours a day, increasing time and light about an hour per day – protect at night if temperatures drop below 40º – reduce water, but don't allow plant to wilt – don't fertilize, especially with nitrogen, which encourages soft, green growth

Transplanting into the garden … finally!

Transplant after last frost date

– lower county around May 20th; upper county around May 30th

Best time to transplant – on an overcast day – light rain day – not a windy day – keep plant roots wet

• If it is too hot and sunny – cover the plants with hot

caps for about a week to provide shade

– can use vitamin B starter solution

Kittitas County Master Gardener Program

Thanks for your interest in our workshop

Seed Starting

and Transplanting