sevendays food food sevendays fitforaking …...sevendays wales on sunday 2december 2012 sevendays...

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SEVEN DAYS Wales on Sunday 2 December 2012 SEVEN DAYS 2 December 2012 Wales on Sunday 8 9 FOOD FOOD PUB SPY THE STAR INN Talybont-on-Usk, Brecon, Powys, LD3 7YX TEL: 01874 676635 STAFF: Unfailingly friendly, knowledgeable, welcoming and accommodating, the staff – led by landlord and landlady Ian and Anna Bell – complement this perfect little village pub, well, perfectly. If it seems like they’re the hardest working couple in the licensed trade it’s because they probably are. Barely a week goes by without a beer festival, Christmas fair, live music or themed nights pulling in the regulars and the tourists. 18/20 DECOR: Anyone expecting one of these so-called ‘gastropubs’ will be disappointed. The interior of the Star can hardly have changed since the 1970s and, of course, looks all the better for it. The centrepiece of the bar is an enormous open fire, perfect for this time of year (although it’s also, strangely, been roaring at the height of summer!). Add a pool table in the lounge, wall decorations attesting to their plethora of guest ales, a snug and tiled floors and you’ve just about got the picture. Oh, and did we mention the beer garden, nestled between a babbling brook and the Brecon and Monmouthshire Canal? In the summer sunshine, there’s no better place to be. 17/20 FOOD & DRINK: While you could, at a pinch, squeeze a pint of lager out of mein host, do yourself a favour and pick a choice real ale or scrumpy from the ever-changing roll of honour on the blackboard over the fire. Pick one – they’re all lovely. Or go through the list and make a night of it. As for food, it’s good, honest pub grub – and plenty of it! 19/20 CLIENTELE: All the world was here in the summer when ex-Beautiful South singer Paul Heaton stopped by on his UK tour, cycling in to sing a storming set in the lovely garden out the back. Most nights, though, you’ll find the residents of this charming canalside village here relaxing and swapping stories. 17/20 ATMOSPHERE: If there’s a better ‘proper’ pub in Wales, we’ve yet to find it (although we’re sure you’ll conradict us). The fame of the Star stretches far and wide and it probably justifies its reputation. Certainly, the beer monsters at Camra like it and it’s currently Brecknockshire Pub of the Year for the fourth year running. 17/20 TOTAL: 88/100 Fit for a king R UMOUR has it that Charles I was once a guest at the original mansion that stood on the site of Peterstone Court. The ill-fated monarch would probably be surprised if he saw the handsome Georgian building that stands on the site today. With a backdrop of the Brecon Beacons to offset it, Peterstone Court looks pretty imposing, but inside it’s relaxed and comfortable. “The Peterstone Court of old was staid and formal, but in its current incarnation it’s upbeat and chilled,” explains Emyr Griffith, founder of Welsh Rarebits which represents a selection of independent hotels in Wales. Walkers and mountain bikers stay at the hotel as an antidote to their exertions on the hills, and for those who have over-stretched their muscles, a soothing massage in the spa or a dip in the pool helps things along. Dogs are welcome too, with baskets, bowls and treats provided, and spectacular ‘walkies’ on the doorstep. Peterstone Court has also developed a reputation for modern, bistro-style food, with much of the meat and poultry coming from the hotel’s own farm. Peterstone Court is part of Welsh Rarebits, a collection of handpicked, top quality, independently-owned hotels. Order your free brochure online at www.rarebits.co.uk or call 01686 668030. Gift vouchers available. Just go to the Welsh Rarebits web site www.rarebits.co.uk, go to the competition tab on the left, enter the code WOS66P and follow the simple instructions. INGREDIENTS – SERVES 6 150ml double cream 300ml milk 225g Caerphilly cheese 6 eggs (separated) 50g butter 50g plain flour 1 small onion 3 whole peppercorns 2 cloves of garlic 1 bay leaf 1tsp English mustard 6 teaspoons laverbread FOR THE TOPPING 60g parmesan 50ml cream METHOD In a saucepan add the milk, cream, onion, pep- percorns, garlic and bay leaf and bring to the boil, turn it off and leave to one side to infuse. In a separate pan melt the butter then add the flour and whisk until well combined, cook the mix- ture over a medium heat for 2-3 minutes whisking constantly. Put the milk mix SEVEN TO LUST AFTER Win a night for two and dinner at Peterstone Court through a sieve into a jug and discard the onion etc. Add the milk mixture to the butter mixture a little at a time whisking constantly, once all the milk is whisked into the butter mixture add the cheese and whisk until melted then remove from the heat and set to one side to cool slightly, add the egg yolks once it has cooled slightly. In a separate bowl whisk the egg whites to soft peaks, add a quarter of the egg whites to the milk mix- ture and stir until com- bined then add the rest of the egg whites and fold in gently. Butter the inside of six ramekins and add the mixture to each one leaving a 1cm gap, Place one small teaspoon of laverbread into the centre of each soufflé. Cook the soufflés at 160°C, Gas 2½ for 20 minutes in a bain mar- ie. Once cooked leave to cool and run a knife around the outside of each soufflé and gently tap them onto a tray. Before baking them for the second time put some cream and INGREDIENTS – SERVES 2 FOR THE PORK AND MARINADE 2 10-ounce bone-in, extra-thick, centre-cut pork chops 112g cup hoisin sauce 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 4 cloves minced garlic 1½ tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp red wine vin- egar 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 1 tbsp rice vinegar 2 tsp sesame oil 2 tsp sugar 1½ tsp hot sauce ½ tsp white pepper ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 green onion (minced) METHOD Mix all the ingredients together and place in a plastic food bag with the pork chops, leave to marinade for at least 12 hours. Remove from bag and place on char-grill or barbecue. Plum frangipan with plum compote INGREDIENTS – (SERVES 6) FOR THE SWEET PASTRY 375g of plain flour, plus a little extra for dusting 15g caster sugar 225g unsalted butter, cut into cubes, plus ex- tra for greasing 1 free-range egg 4 tbsp ice-cold water METHOD For the pastry, sieve the flour and sugar into a large mixing bowl. Tip the cubed butter into the bowl. Rub the butter and the flour between your thumb and fingertips until the mixture re- sembles fine bread- crumbs. In a jug or small bowl, beat the egg together with four tablespoons of ice-cold water. Pour into the flour mixture. Slowly bring the in- gredients together with your hands to form a dough, being careful not to overwork it. Knead the dough lightly on a clean, floured work surface, then wrap it in cling film and refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes FOR THE FRANGIPANE 200g of unsalted but- ter 200g sugar 2 free range eggs 200g ground almonds For the tart filling 5-6 ripe plums each cut into eighths, stones removed METHOD Cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl until light and fluffy. Crack the eggs into the bowl one at a time, beat- ing well after each ad- dition. Add the ground almonds and mix well until combined. Set aside. Preheat oven to180°C/ 350°F/Gas 4. Dust the work surface with flour and roll the chilled dough thinly. Use it to line one large 25cm/10in tart ring or 6-8 individual tartlet rings 8cm/3¼in in dia- meter. Spoon the frangipane into the tart case so that it comes about halfway up the sides. Smooth over the surface with a spatula and cover evenly with plums. Bake for 30-40 minutes (15-25 minutes for the tartlets), or until pastry is golden-brown and the fruit tender FOR THE PLUM COMPOTE 6 plums (diced) 100g of sugar Juice of ½ a lemon METHOD Put all ingredients in a pan and cook for 5 minutes or until plums are soft Dust tart with icing sugar and serve warm with compote and vanilla ice cream . Our chef tops it with spun sugar. Seal meat on both sides for 4-5 minutes, or until a charcoal ef- fect is reached. Transfer to oven 220°C, Gas 7 for 15 minutes, leave to rest for a further 5 minutes before serving. FOR THE MUSTARD SAUCE 50g red wine vinegar 2 tbsp hot mustard powder 3 tbsp sugar 1 egg yolk 70g cup crème fraiche Cayenne, to taste 1 tsp Dijon mustard ¼ tsp turmeric Mix all ingredients together, fold in the crème fraiche last. parmesan onto the top of each soufflé then cook them at 180°C for 10-15 minutes until risen. Twice baked Caerphilly cheese soufflé Marinated Pork Chops CASE STUDY A vintage-style miniature suitcase in Liberty’s signature Tana Lawn fabric is a must for weekenders who face luggage restrictions. Green Lodden Print Miniature Suitcase, £65, from www.liberty.co.uk WAKE UP NATURALLY Be less alarmed by the lack of light in the morning with this clever clock, which simulates a sunrise in your bedroom. It eases you in from the land of nod over preset periods by slowly brightening the room, promoting the body’s get-up-and-go hormone cortisol – very scientific. Lumie Bodyclock Active 250, £89.99, from www.firebox.com LUXURY THROW A designer favourite in smart hotels, styling your favourite space with a luxurious fur throw will add the finishing touch to any room by adding warmth and glitz. Faux White Fox Fur Throw, £198, from www.wesley-barrell.co.uk SMARTPHONE SYSTEM Connect these to your existing sockets and, with the assistance of an app on your smartphone, you can control almost every aspect of your illuminating devices from a tap on the screen. These bulbs can also be set to simulate daybreak – handy if you want to wake up gradually. Philips Hue Starter Pack, £179, from Apple stores nationwide AERIAL EXCITEMENT Remote control choppers can now come with built-in water pistols, working winches and cameras – and they’re easier than ever to fly. But this set-up from Spin Master takes in-flight play to another level. It’ll track you while you fly, trying to knock you out of the air. Air Hogs Battle Tracker, £99.99, from www.tesco.com/direct TRULY SCRUMPTIOUS Those with a sweet tooth need look no further than Biscuiteers’ Winter Wonderland basket. Festive goodies include a Biscuiteers Christmas fruit cake, Say Cheese tin, Happy Christmas chocs tin and two Santa Jolly Gingers, along with a Biscuiteers Book Of Iced Biscuits and tea towels. Winter Wonderland Hamper, £199, (plus P&P), from www.biscuiteers.com JUST ADD WATER After a single charge, these shoe inserts will provide up to 35 minutes’ worth of foot-warming relief. And to reactivate, just boil them in water for 10 minutes. The soles will mould to your feet and they can be reused up to 100 times. Warm Up Soles, £12.99, from www.iwantoneofthose.com

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Page 1: SEVENDAYS FOOD FOOD SEVENDAYS Fitforaking …...SEVENDAYS Wales on Sunday 2December 2012 SEVENDAYS 2December 2012 Wales on Sunday 89FOOD FOOD PUB SP Y THESTAR INN Talybont-on-Usk,Brecon,

SEVENDAYSWales on Sunday 2 December 2012

SEVENDAYS2 December 2012 Wales on Sunday

8 9FOOD FOODP

UB

SPY THE STAR

INNTalybont-on-Usk, Brecon,Powys, LD3 7YXTEL: 01874 676635

STAFF: Unfailingly friendly,knowledgeable, welcoming andaccommodating, the staff – led bylandlord and landlady Ian and AnnaBell – complement this perfect littlevillage pub, well, perfectly. If it seemslike they’re the hardest workingcouple in the licensed trade it’s

because they probably are. Barely aweek goes by without a beer festival,Christmas fair, live music or themednights pulling in the regulars and thetourists.

18/20

DECOR: Anyone expecting oneof these so-called ‘gastropubs’ will bedisappointed. The interior of the Starcan hardly have changed since the1970s and, of course, looks all thebetter for it. The centrepiece of thebar is an enormous open fire, perfectfor this time of year (although it’salso, strangely, been roaring at the

height of summer!). Add a pool tablein the lounge, wall decorations

attesting to their plethora of guestales, a snug and tiled floors andyou’ve just about got the picture. Oh,and did we mention the beer garden,nestled between a babbling brookand the Brecon and MonmouthshireCanal? In the summer sunshine,there’s no better place to be.

17/20

FOOD & DRINK: While youcould, at a pinch, squeeze a pint oflager out of mein host, do yourself afavour and pick a choice real ale orscrumpy from the ever-changing rollof honour on the blackboard over the

fire. Pick one – they’re all lovely. Or gothrough the list and make a night ofit. As for food, it’s good, honest pubgrub – and plenty of it!

19/20

CLIENTELE: All the world washere in the summer whenex-Beautiful South singer Paul Heatonstopped by on his UK tour, cycling into sing a storming set in the lovelygarden out the back. Most nights,though, you’ll find the residents ofthis charming canalside village hererelaxing and swapping stories.

17/20

ATMOSPHERE: Ifthere’s a better ‘proper’ pubin Wales, we’ve yet to find it(although we’re sure you’llconradict us). The fame ofthe Star stretches far andwide and it probably justifiesits reputation. Certainly, thebeer monsters at Camra like itand it’s currentlyBrecknockshire Pub of the Yearfor the fourth year running.

17/20TOTAL: 88/100

Fit for a kingRUMOUR has it that Charles I was

once a guest at the original mansionthat stood on the site of Peterstone

Court.The ill-fated monarch would probably be

surprised if he saw the handsome Georgianbuilding that stands on the site today.

With a backdrop of the Brecon Beacons tooffset it, Peterstone Court looks prettyimposing, but inside it’s relaxed andcomfortable.

“The Peterstone Court of old was staidand formal, but in its current incarnationit’s upbeat and chilled,” explains EmyrGriffith, founder of Welsh Rarebits whichrepresents a selection of independent hotelsin Wales.

Walkers and mountain bikers stay at thehotel as an antidote to their exertions onthe hills, and for those who haveover-stretched their muscles, a soothingmassage in the spa or a dip in the poolhelps things along.

Dogs are welcome too, with baskets,bowls and treats provided, and spectacular‘walkies’ on the doorstep.

Peterstone Court has also developed areputation for modern, bistro-style food,with much of the meat and poultry comingfrom the hotel’s own farm.■ Peterstone Court is part of WelshRarebits, a collection of handpicked, topquality, independently-owned hotels.Order your free brochure online atwww.rarebits.co.uk or call 01686 668030.Gift vouchers available.

Just go to the WelshRarebits web sitewww.rarebits.co.uk, goto the competition tabon the left, enter thecode WOS66P and followthe simple instructions.

INGREDIENTS –SERVES 6■ 150ml double cream■ 300ml milk■ 225g Caerphilly cheese■ 6 eggs (separated)■ 50g butter■ 50g plain flour■ 1 small onion■ 3 whole peppercorns■ 2 cloves of garlic■ 1 bay leaf■ 1tsp English mustard■ 6 teaspoons laverbreadFOR THE TOPPING■ 60g parmesan■ 50ml creamMETHOD■ In a saucepan add themilk, cream, onion, pep-percorns, garlic and bayleaf and bring to the boil,turn it off and leave toone side to infuse.■ In a separate pan meltthe butter then add theflour and whisk until wellcombined, cook the mix-ture over a medium heatfor 2-3 minutes whiskingconstantly.■ Put the milk mix

SEVENTO LUST AFTER

Win a night for two anddinner at Peterstone Court

through a sieve into ajug and discard theonion etc. Add the milkmixture to the buttermixture a little at a timewhisking constantly,once all the milk iswhisked into the buttermixture add the cheeseand whisk until meltedthen remove from theheat and set to one sideto cool slightly, add theegg yolks once it hascooled slightly.■ In a separate bowlwhisk the egg whites tosoft peaks, add aquarter of the eggwhites to the milk mix-ture and stir until com-bined then add the restof the egg whites andfold in gently.■ Butter the inside of sixramekins and add themixture to each oneleaving a 1cm gap, Placeone small teaspoon oflaverbread into thecentre of each soufflé.Cook the soufflés at

160°C, Gas 2½ for 20minutes in a bain mar-ie. Once cooked leaveto cool and run a knifearound the outside of

each soufflé and gentlytap them onto a tray.■ Before baking themfor the second time putsome cream and

INGREDIENTS –SERVES 2FOR THE PORK ANDMARINADE■ 2 10-ounce bone-in,extra-thick, centre-cutpork chops■ 112g cup hoisin sauce■ 1 tablespoon gratedfresh ginger■ 4 cloves minced garlic■ 1½ tbsp soy sauce■ 1 tbsp red wine vin-egar■ 1 tbsp sherry vinegar■ 1 tbsp rice vinegar■ 2 tsp sesame oil■ 2 tsp sugar■ 1½ tsp hot sauce■ ½ tsp white pepper■ ½ tsp freshly groundblack pepper■ 1 green onion(minced)METHOD■ Mix all the ingredientstogether and place in aplastic food bag with thepork chops, leave tomarinade for at least 12hours.■ Remove from bag andplace on char-grill orbarbecue.

Plum frangipan with plum compoteINGREDIENTS –(SERVES 6)FOR THE SWEETPASTRY■ 375g of plain flour,plus a little extra fordusting■ 15g caster sugar■ 225g unsalted butter,cut into cubes, plus ex-tra for greasing■ 1 free-range egg■ 4 tbsp ice-cold waterMETHOD■ For the pastry, sievethe flour and sugar intoa large mixing bowl. Tipthe cubed butter into thebowl. Rub the butter andthe flour between yourthumb and fingertipsuntil the mixture re-sembles fine bread-crumbs.■ In a jug or small bowl,

beat the egg togetherwith four tablespoons ofice-cold water. Pour intothe flour mixture.■ Slowly bring the in-gredients together withyour hands to form adough, being careful notto overwork it.■ Knead the doughlightly on a clean,floured work surface,then wrap it in cling filmand refrigerate untilfirm, at least 30 minutesFOR THEFRANGIPANE■ 200g of unsalted but-ter■ 200g sugar■ 2 free range eggs■ 200g ground almonds■ For the tart filling■ 5-6 ripe plums eachcut into eighths, stones

removedMETHOD■ Cream the butter andsugar together in a bowluntil light and fluffy.Crack the eggs into thebowl one at a time, beat-ing well after each ad-dition. Add the groundalmonds and mix welluntil combined. Setaside.■ Preheat oven to180°C/350°F/Gas 4. Dust thework surface with flourand roll the chilleddough thinly.Use it to line one large25cm/10in tart ring or6-8 individual tartletrings 8cm/3¼in in dia-meter.■ Spoon the frangipaneinto the tart case so thatit comes about halfway

up the sides. Smoothover the surface with aspatula and cover evenlywith plums. Bake for30-40 minutes (15-25minutes for the tartlets),or until pastry isgolden-brown and thefruit tenderFOR THE PLUMCOMPOTE■ 6 plums (diced)■ 100g of sugar■ Juice of ½ a lemonMETHOD■ Put all ingredients in apan and cook for 5minutes or until plumsare soft■ Dust tart with icingsugar and serve warmwith compote andvanilla ice cream . Ourchef tops it with spunsugar.

■ Seal meat on bothsides for 4-5 minutes,or until a charcoal ef-fect is reached.■ Transfer to oven220°C, Gas 7 for 15minutes, leave to restfor a further 5 minutes

before serving.FOR THE MUSTARDSAUCE■ 50g red wine vinegar■ 2 tbsp hot mustardpowder■ 3 tbsp sugar■ 1 egg yolk

■ 70g cup crèmefraiche■ Cayenne, to taste■ 1 tsp Dijon mustard■ ¼ tsp turmeric■ Mix all ingredientstogether, fold in thecrème fraiche last.

parmesan onto the topof each soufflé thencook them at 180°C for10-15 minutes untilrisen.

Twice baked Caerphilly cheese soufflé

MarinatedPork Chops

CASE STUDY■ A vintage-style miniature

suitcase in Liberty’ssignature Tana Lawn fabricis a must for weekenderswho face luggage restrictions.Green Lodden Print MiniatureSuitcase, £65, fromwww.liberty.co.uk

WAKE UP NATURALLY■ Be less alarmed by the lack of light

in the morning with this cleverclock, which simulates a sunrise in yourbedroom. It eases you in from the landof nod over preset periods by slowlybrightening the room, promoting thebody’s get-up-and-go hormone cortisol –very scientific. Lumie Bodyclock Active250, £89.99, from www.firebox.com

LUXURYTHROW■ A designer favourite in smart

hotels, styling your favouritespace with a luxurious fur throwwill add the finishing touch to anyroom by adding warmth and glitz.Faux White Fox Fur Throw, £198,from www.wesley-barrell.co.uk

SMARTPHONE SYSTEM■ Connect these to your existing

sockets and, with the assistance of anapp on your smartphone, you can controlalmost every aspect of your illuminatingdevices from a tap on the screen. Thesebulbs can also be set to simulate daybreak– handy if you want to wake upgradually. Philips Hue Starter Pack, £179,from Apple stores nationwide

AERIAL EXCITEMENT■ Remote control choppers can

now come with built-in waterpistols, working winches and cameras– and they’re easier than ever to fly.But this set-up from Spin Master takesin-flight play to another level. It’ll trackyou while you fly, trying to knock youout of the air. Air Hogs Battle Tracker,£99.99, from www.tesco.com/direct

TRULY SCRUMPTIOUS■ Those with a sweet tooth need look

no further than Biscuiteers’ WinterWonderland basket. Festive goodies includea Biscuiteers Christmas fruit cake, Say Cheesetin, Happy Christmas chocs tin and two SantaJolly Gingers, along with a Biscuiteers BookOf Iced Biscuits and tea towels. WinterWonderland Hamper, £199, (plus P&P),from www.biscuiteers.com

JUST ADD WATER■ After a single charge, these shoe

inserts will provide up to 35 minutes’worth of foot-warming relief. And toreactivate, just boil them in water for 10minutes. The soles will mould to your feetand they can be reused up to 100 times.Warm Up Soles, £12.99, fromwww.iwantoneofthose.com