Sew Like a Pro Series Volume One

Sutura Start

TM

Natalie Monkhouse

2

The Sutura Style Learn to Sew Series

Sutura Start

Copyright © 2019 Sutura Style and Sutura Fabrics

7565 Macon Road, Memphis, TN, 38108

All rights reserved.

™

Also available from The Sutura Style Series: Sew Like A Pro, Let’s Sew Cosplay, Sutura Globally, SuturaStart, Sutura Menswear, The Sewist Tote, Sweetheart Scissors, and The Sutura Organizer: MemphisEdition.

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, unless otherwise stated. The information in this bookis presented in good faith, but no warranty is given, nor results guaranteed. The author disclaims allliability from any injury to anyone undertaking the activities described in this book as a result of impropersafety precautions.

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ContentsAcknowledgements 4

Lesson 1: Setting Up for Success 5

Sutura Style Sewing Supplies 6

Press For Success 7

Needle In The Haystack 8

Your Sewing Machine 9

Maintaining Your Sewing Machine 10

Novice Sewing Practice 11

All About Threads 12

Curves Ahead 14

Basic Sewing Skills 18

Method Sample: Simple Seam Finishes 20

Sewing Measurements Reference Chart 21

Pattern Measurements Chart 22

Sutura Start Projects 23

What Are Fat Quarters? 24

Sutura Organizer: Memphis Edition 25

Bobbin’ Along Pincushion 26

Sweetheart Scissor Covers 27

The Sewist Tote 28

4

I don’t have

photos of most of

my students but I

appreciate

everyone!

ACKNOWLEGEMENTSThe Sutura Style Learn to Sew Series is dedicated to my grandmothers, Doris

Monkhouse and Oris Graham. From my first scrap doll clothes to my first collection

they were a font of strength and encouragement.

As I wrote this series, there have been so many kind and encouraging people along the way. In particular, I want to thank my

mom, Patti Monkhouse for encouraging me to continue with sewing and to pursue a career in fashion and Joyce Miller, former

manager at Hancock Fabrics, for giving me my first job as a paid sewing teacher.

To my sister, Lise-Anne: I have no idea how you managed to get both of us, and our projects to classes at the Singer store on

Eglinton Avenue in Toronto. Two buses and a subway ride each way with your ten year-old sister in tow. Thank-you.

I would be remiss if I failed to thank the faculty at the School of Fashion and Design at Seneca College, and the staff at the Fashion

Resource Center in Toronto, Canada. Françoise, I am still teaching students to “let the curve go” and the method we worked out

for making quick, pretty necklines has been passed on to the next generation, despite the fact that it was “homemade”.

To each and every one of my students, The Memphis Soul Stitchers, The Beginner Sewists, and to all who watched my YouTube

videos, I appreciate you.

Natalie

5

LESSON 1: SETTING UP FOR SUCCESS

Learning to sew is fun and rewarding. Thisskill can open up a whole new world ofhobbies and practical applications.

Quilting, garment sewing, doll making,alterations, Cosplay, costume making, utilitysewing and more all begin with those first fewstitches.

To get started, you will need a few things.In this section we will review what is trulynecessary so you can enjoy your new

hobby without breaking the bank! Many of themost commonly used items can be adapted fromthings you may already have on hand, such asusing take-out chopsticks as a point turner orbone tool.

BEFORE YOU BUY

Buy Your MachineLast Not First

Read this section carefullybefore you shop for supplies.

Reuse, Reduce, andRecycle,

Choose Quality overQuantity

Just Ask

6

● Pattern or print out of drafting instructions● Extra bobbins for your machine● Extra sewing needles● Hand sewing needles● Sharp 9” or 10” shears & thread snips● Glue sticks● Thread for your project

The first three are essentials for sewing and the rest can be addedon as needed:

● An Awl or chopstick● Pins, preferably quilters no-melt pins or long dressmaking pins● A measuring tape● Fabric snips for marking notches and clipping points● Sewing Gauge● Dressmaker’s ruler and 18” ruler● Fabric markers, dressmakers pencil or quilt pen● Flexcurve ruler for pattern drafting

A basic iron and ironing surface are essential. Most sewing classesprovide irons however, to speed up your sewing time, you may wishto bring your own travel iron and ironing board. Please have:

● Notions such as zippers, hook & loop tape, and buttons● Interfacing for your project● Small Travel Iron (optional)● Mini Ironing Board (Ikea style)● Paper bag to collect your scraps and snips

Pressing & Finishing

Cutting and Sewing

Marking and Measuring

SUTURA STYLE SEWING SUPPLIES

7

A good iron can cover a multitude of

sins. Take your sewing to the next

level by pressing your project

correctly. Use steam and heat to

make small errors disappear. A

high-quality iron is the second most

important piece of equipment in the

sewing room. Carefully choose one

that fits your budget and needs.

Ideally, shop for an 1800 watt iron.

Here are some tips and tricks to use

when ironing your projects.

1. Use a dry iron to press most

projects.

2. Purchase 2 inexpensive spray

bottles. Use one for starch and

the second for water.

3. The steam function works best

for wool and cotton projects.

4. Make spray starch at home.

There are several recipes online.

5. Pressing tools, such as a Tailor's

Ham and Sausage, make ironing

easier and faster.

PRESS FOR SUCCESS

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There are several types of needles for your sewing machine.The most common is the universal variety. Check you SewingMachine Operating Manual to find out which brand and typewill work best for your machine. Skipped stitches and uneventension are often caused by incorrect, dull or spurredneedles. Changing the needle often, usingthe correct needle type, and size can prevent this. Generally,the needle should be changed after eight hours of use or lessfor heavy fabrics.

Domestic sewing machine needles are color-coded by type.The Schmetz® Color Coding Chart, shown below, is a usefultool for choosing your needles.

®Schmetz is a Registered Trademark of Ferd. SchmetzGmbH © Euro-Notions Inc. 2014

®Schmetz is a Registered Trademark of Ferd. Schmetz GmbH © Euro-Notions Inc.2014

At 500 stitches per minute, your sewing machineneedle will have created 200,000 stitches in a sixhour period. Such a small piece of metal cannot

withstand much more than that.

NEEDLE IN THE HAYSTACK

Finding the right

needle for the

job can feel like

looking for a needle in a

haystack. Use this handy

chart to navigate

through the many

choices. If all else fails, a

Size 12/80 Organ Brand

needle will often work

for woven fabric.

9

YOUR SEWING MACHINEPurchasing your first sewing machine involves both excitement and trepidation. Since sewing

is a new hobby, students often use online reviews as a guide. This can be a pocket draining

mistake. Borrow or rent a machine until you know which features matter most. With proper

care, your machine will last for many years. Here are some maintenance tips and tricks.

1. Begin by removing all threads, needles and the extension table if necessary.

2. Work from the top of the machine down.

3. Use a microfibre cloth to clean a computerized machine.

4. A soft, damp cloth with mild detergent will work for a mechanical machine.

5. Do not use paper towels as they can leave lint.

6. Do not use spray cleaners on your machine.

7. Be sure to disconnect your machine from the power source before cleaning the machine.

8. Open the bobbin area for your sewing machine and clean it.

9. Turn the machine around and look at it from the back.

10. Install a new needle every 6 hours.

11. Clean the race by following the manufacturer’s instructions.

All sewing machines need to be lubricated however, many modern sewing machines do not

require oiling by the owner, instead your machine may need to be brought to a technician for

servicing.

Never learn to

sew on a

machine that you

don’t know!

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Bobbin WinderBobbin Winding Thread Guide& Pre-tension Disk

Thread Tension Dial

Needle Up/Down

Speed Control

Stitch Selection Panel

Presser Foot Pressure Control

Start/Stop Button

Thread LockReverse Stitch Button

Thread Take-Up Lever

Thread Cutter

Accessory Box & Feed Dog Adjustmentlocated inside the machine bed

Needle Plate

Stitch Display

Stitch lengthand width control

One Step Buttonhole Lever

Handwheel

Power Switch

Main Socket

Whether your machine is brand new or vintage, there

are some basic things that everyone should know. The

first is that most stitching problems are the direct result

of the machine not being cleaned properly. Secondly,

the needle needs to be changed as discussed in

Section 1. A regular maintenance routine is essential

for all sewing machines. Check your Owner’s Guide for

methods specific to your machine. If your machine

seems to be acting up, after it has been cleaned

thoroughly and it has a fresh needle, bring it in to your

local dealership or contact the manufacturer directly.

As a beginner, please do not attempt to fix the machine

yourself, you may do more harm than good.

MAINTAINING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

11

Welcome to your first sewing lesson! As with any new skill,practice is essential to success. The training cards found on

the following pages will assist you with attaining stitchaccuracy. Trace the figures onto muslin using a pencil.

What you will need

Let’s get started!

Prepare to stitch by removing all threadsfrom your machine. Ensure that the basiczigzag presser foot is in place. Turn themachine on. Set the stitch length to 3 mm. Placethe first piece of fabric under the presser footand begin sewing at a slow speed. Aim foraccuracy as you are learning. You will be able tosew faster with practice.

When you have finished stitching all thetraining cards at least once, try sewingthem again with thread. Remember:

Slow and Steady wins the race.

Welcome tothe world of

sewing!

NOVICE SEWING PRACTICE

12

ALL ABOUT THREADS

Project Thread Weight Thread PliesGeneral Sewing 40 wt 3Heirloom Sewing 50 wt 3Serger/Overlock 40 wt 2Machine Embroidery 40 wt 2Quilting 50 wt 3Home Décor 20-30 wt 3Bobbins 60 wt 2

When selecting thread for sewing clothing, 100% polyester, all-purpose thread is the best choice tostart with.

COTTONCotton thread is available in a series of weights and plies. It is ideally suited togeneral-purpose sewing on cotton or rayon fabric, quilting, and decorative topstitchingsuch as can be found on denim clothing.

POLYESTERUse 100% polyester thread for sewing clothing, light use home décor projects, and with anOverlock Machine. The strong, smooth fibers will last through many years of use and cleaningwithout shrinking. Lustrous machine embroidery thread is also made out of polyester and is oftenpreferred for its high tensile strength over Rayon.

RAYONRayon thread is best known for the depths of color and the lustrous sheen that can be achieved.This thread is best used for decorative projects, satin stitching and machine embroidery. It can alsobe used for fancy buttonholes or basting in place of silk.

NYLONThe most versatile of all man made thread fibers, nylon can be either transparent and thin or heavyand textured. When made as a single ply thread, it can be so thin as to appearinvisible. Use transparent nylon for creating invisible hems. Bulky or “wooly” nylon is a texturedthread that is used with a coverhem stitch made with a Cover Stitch Machine or a 5-thread serger.

The thread weight system uses metric as a means of measurement. Generally, in the UnitedStates, thread weight is denoted in one or more ways as shown:1) 50 wt. 2) 50/3 3) Size 50The example above uses 50-weight cotton quilting thread to illustrate how the weight informationmay appear on the thread label. Lower numbers indicate heavier thread. The weight of the thread isdetermined by the number of meters needed to obtain one gram of thread. So, the 50 weight threadexample means that 50 meters of thread equals 1 gram.A ply refers to a single strand of fiber, such as cotton, that is spun to create thread. Threads usedfor home sewing consist of 1-3 plies. Since it is not mandatory to declare the thread weight, or thenumber of plies on the label, shopping for thread can be confusing. Below is a basic chart to helpyou with your thread selections.

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Sewing Training Card B - Concentric Lines

14

CURVES AHEAD

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A plain seam is created when two layers offabric are sewn together. After pinning thefabric right sides together, place the fabricunder the needle with the edge of the fabricto the edge of the foot. This method ofstitching a seam is unique to the Sutura StyleMethod of Sewing. Set the stitch length to 2.5mm. The needle should be in the far-leftposition. Starting about ¼ inch from theedge, and holding the threads out of the way,sew a few reverse stitches, sewing backwardto the edge of the fabrics. This will secureyour seam. Stitch forward, over the previousstitches and continues sewing. Removing thepins as you sew. At the end of the seam, take

To create perfect seams, ensure that thesewing machine tension is correctlybalanced as shown in Figure A. If the toptension is too tight, or the bobbin threadtension is too loose, the bobbin threads

will appear on the surface of the fabric as illustrated in Figure B. Conversely, ifthe bobbin threads are too tight, or the top threads are too loose, the top thread

Sew with theedge of thefabric to the

edge of the foot

BASIC SEWING SKILLS

1. Use a pair of pinking shears to trim the raw edges.

2. Press your seams open and sew a line of narrow zigzagstitches in each seam allowance. Iron the seam again toset the stitches.

3. Replace your presser foot with the Overcast Foot foryour machine. Keeping the seam allowances together,use an overcast stitch to finish the raw edges. Press theseam firmly to set the stitches.

4. Press the seam open and sew a line of 2 mm straightstitches in the seam allowance.

D

19

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METHOD SAMPLE: SIMPLE SEAM FINISHES

214

?

Inseam

Outseam

Back length

Neck - Cuff Length

From center

Sleeve

Length

Favorite Skirt

Length

Chest/Bust

Waist

Hip - @ fullest part

Rise

Waist-Knee

Length

@ center of knee

Neck

Shoulder - Ankle

Length

Height

Ankle

Cuff

Biceps

Short Sleeve

LengthHigh Bust

SEWING MEASUREMENTS REFERENCE CHART

22

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PATTERN MEASUREMENTS CHART

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The Sutura Start Program involves learning tosew over the course of four sessions. Duringeach session, students will have the chance todiscover new sewing skills. Sewists can choosefrom a single-day workshop or, a four-weekcourse. There are four accompanying projects.These include:

1. The Sutura Organizer,

2. The Bobbin' Along Pincushion,

3. Sweetheart Scissor Covers, and

4. The Sewist Tote.

As you sew each project, you will have thechance to practice the methods learned.

Sewing time can be fun and exciting or relax-ing, soothing, and therapeutic. Allow yoursewing space to reflect your feelings. Whichcolors reflect you best? Do you prefer vibrantjewel tones, or calm pastel colors? The fournovice sewing projects are designed to last formany years. Choose colors that you will enjoy.

All four novice projects use quilting cotton.You will need four fat quarters plus yardage.Additional items include fusible interfacing,matching zippers, buttons, thread, and vinyl.You will find a list of specific supplies witheach project. Finally, an extra-large, insulatedgrocery bag, as shown, is used as a sewingtote. These multi-use items fold flat and allowsewists to make the most of a small space.

There are three main steps involved in prepar-ing fabric for sewing. The first step is to washthe fabric in warm water. Secondly, shrink thefabric by drying it at high heat. Finally, iron thefabric with a heavy spray starch that can beeither homemade or purchased. Once thefabric is prepared, you are ready to sew.

Brother, Janome, Juki, and Singer manufacture budget-friendly sewingmachines. They are available in a variety of colors, as are the insulatedbags. Students can have fun mixing and matching colors with their sewingmachines or totes.

SUTURA START PROJECTS

24

FATQUARTER

FUN

WHAT ARE FAT QUARTERS?Developed by the quilting industry, fat quarters are pre-

cut pieces of fabric that measure 18” by half the width

of the fabric. The second measurement is variable,

depending on the width of the fabric. An average fat

quarter will measure 18” x 21”.

The term fat quarter comes from folding and cutting a

yard of fabric in four quarters along the width. This is

done instead of cutting four lengthwise strips. These

wider “fat” pieces of fabric are more useful for many

crafts and quilts.

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Your first sewing project is designed to teach you how to

sew a lined project, miter corners, pivot, and use

interfacing. Cutting and Sewing Time: 1 - 2 hours

SUTURA ORGANIZER: MEMPHIS EDITION

New Features!

Mobile Device

Pocket

Anti-Slip Mat

26

Sew On

The Go

Organizer

Your second sewing project is designed to teach you how to

sew a circular project, work completely on the bias, and

install elastic. Cutting and Sewing Time: 1 - 2 hours

BOBBIN’ ALONG PINCUSHION

27

Bobbin’

Along

Pincushion

Your third sewing project is designed to teach you how to

1/4” seam allowances and practice sewing on the bias.

Cutting and Sewing Time: 1 - 2 hours

SWEETHEART SCISSOR COVERS

28

Your final sewing project is designed to teach you how to

install a zipper, stitch an accurate button and buttonhole,

and sew-in Velcro. Cutting and Sewing Time: 4-6 hours

THE SEWIST TOTE