sutura style spring 2016

1

SPRING

2

Dreams come true at Designer Sewing Center

8 South Main Street, Whitestown, Indiana, 46075

SPRING FASHION PREVIEWGet the look from the Catwalks of Europe and the US in your closet for less. Full story on page 41

Here We Grow

Designer Sewing Center • 8 S. Main St, Suite 103, Whitestown, IN, 46075Tel: 317-768-3023 • • • [email protected] • www.designersewingcenter.com

The New Year brought manychanges for us at Sutura Style.The biggest one was movinginto our new store, DesignerSewing Center. The transitionfrom a home-based, solo-preneurship to a retail businesswith things like regular hours,and team members, is anexciting, ongoing adventure.

While working at homecertainly has its advantages,this move comes at just theright time, not only for us butfor Whitestown. On January26, 2016, Designer SewingCenter made history bybecoming the first business inour small town to be openedby Whitestown officials. In thepast, these events werehandled by either BooneCounty or Zionsville Chamberof Commerce. But the town,like our company, has grown alot over the past few years andit is with great pride that wetake this historic first step.

The shop offers greatopportunities for interactionwith the community, eventsand specials and I am sostoked to see what thefuture holds. We’ve gotnew programs, state-of-the-art machines and aspace of our own.

All of this meant settingaside the magazine for theWinter Edition - a sacrificethat I was sorry to have tomake, but it means thatthis issue has moretutorials, fashion featuresand, for the first time,special offers on somebeautiful fabrics.

Spring is in the air and Ijust can’t wait to see whatthe future brings.

Happy Sewing!

Natalie

Being a female entrepreneur can be toughbut I believe that every woman with adream should try.

6

MAKING HISTORY

WWW.DESIGNERSEWINGCENTER.COM

and abolitionist, Albert White. The tinycommunity where we live and work grewup, like many American towns, around therailroad. Whitestown was just a stop onthe route, located 7 miles away from

On a cold day, january 26, 2016, sutura style grew from a

home based business into a little shop and made histry.Whitestown, Indiana, USAWhitestown was founded in 1851and is named in honor of politican

THE GRAND OPENING OF DESIGNER SEWING CENTERIt was a great honor to be joined by, from left, my husband (and co-owner) Stephen Reiners, Mitch Walters,Whitestown Town Manager Dax Norton , Public Relations Coordinator Tanya Sumner and Whitestown Fire Chief,

Josh Westrich. Taking the photo is Jordan Albert, seen on the facing page, my son and co-owner.

News

nearby Lebanon in Boone County.Traditionally, Whitestown businessopenings were officiated by Boone Countyor the Chamber of Commerce inneighboring Zionsville.

The second ribbon cutting was done by theteam from Brother Industries, ToniWeresch and cutting the ribbon, BruceDellert, our Regional Sales Representative.Toni is a Brother Educator extrodinaire andwe are looking forward to having her backin the future.

The shop is just 900 square feet and wepack a lot into our new space. At the back,close to the glass door (for plenty ofnatural light) is our class area. In themiddle are patterns and just enoughfabrics to support the programs we teachwith the stars of the show, our machines,at the front.

It was a wonderful day and to all thosewho supported us along the way - Thankyou!

What aday!

10

ContentsSewing Ideas 11

A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS 12

Spring Savings! 20

Independent Designers 22

Embroidery Corner 27

Scrappy Cat- Quarterly Project and Free Quilt Pattern 35

Natalie’s Nook 38

Catwalk to Closet 40

Sewing Machines 46

Focus on Fashion: Noon By Noor 52

The Bridge Between Two Worlds 58

Fabric in Focus: The Trending Colors of Summer 59

New Spring Fabrics 63

Seasonal Style 68

Editorial Series 71

Mod Q 87

Textiles Talk 93

Prize Winners! 100

11

Sewing Ideas

Ruffler attachments are an easy way to get gorgeous stylefor the home and your wardrobe in very little time.

I had been wondering about the difference between thegeneric version that I had purchased a long time ago and theBrother brand unit. I decided to sew up New Look pattern6202 and add ruffled cap sleeves, and a two layer skirt. Thejoy of this attachment is that it handles all the math for memaking adding ruffles easy like Sunday morning. I mustnote that all rufflers are a little noisy, so first time users maybe startled by the sound.

Snap the ruffler onto your machine and use the screws toadjust it so that your needle drops directly into the slot(Photo 2). The attachment is designed to sew a centeredstraight stitch only, so make sure you have selected thecorrect stitch. Place a piece of fabric under the attachmentand a long strip of thin fabric such as cotton in the unitbetween the ruffle plate and the top of the attachment asshown in photo 1.

You can adjust the distance between ruffles with theselection lever shown in photo 3. This determines how manystitches your machine will make between ruffles. The secondway to increase or decrease the number of ruffles is toincrease or decease the stitch length as shown in photo 1.Sewing a test will help determine the stitch length and leversetting.

Sew as you normally would keeping the fabrics straight. Donot fight the ruffler. Use a feather touch to guide he fabricsand the top fabric will be pleated/ruffled into the lower one.

The Sweet Easter Dress (right) took about 1 hour tocomplete. See the tutorial on the following pages.

A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS

A Ruffler Makes it Easy! Accessory Tutorial

A

Sweet EasterDress

TutorialStitch up a sweet dress for your

little girl in about one hour usingthe bodice section of New Look

pattern 6202 and a ruffler.

● Thread to match,

● Ruffler for your machine,

● 1/4” guide foot,

● Serger with blending thread, and

● Glue stick.

Choose pretty cotton fabrics for the

best results and the following:

● 1 3/4 yards of dress fabric,

● 1 yard of contrast fabric,

● 1 small hook and eye closure,

You WillNeed

1. Cut out the BOTH the bodice back and front using just the front pattern

piece (pattern piece 1) from the dress fabric, being careful to adjust the

back neckline so that it sits higher than the front by about 1.5”.

2. Fold the bodice back in half and cut a 4” slit on the fold starting at the

neckline.

3. Cut 2 18” x WOF pieces from the dress fabric and 1 22” x WOF of contrast

for the peach dress OR 2 10” x WOF for the aqua dress.

4. Cut the sash (piece 8) and 3 24” x 1.25” strips of bias of contrast.

5. To create the sleeve caps, cut 2 pieces of fabric in this shape by folding the

remaining contrast fabric on the crossgrain and folding again along the

straight of grain.

Fold

4”

20”

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

Abbreviations used: WOF: Width Of Fabric RST: Right Sides Together

If you do not have a serger,sew one side seam and clipthe binding as shown. Press.

To reduce the bulk, sew a second line of

straight stitches and trim the seam

allowance. Press the seam open.

Stitch in the ditch to securethe bias binding.

Use a bit of the leftover binding to finish

the neckline slit. Stitch at a scant 1/8”,

right sides together and turn the binding,

clipping it at the “V”. Press the binding to

the wrong side of the fabric. Bias will not

fray. Edgestitch it in place.

Sew the shoulder seams firstand finish the raw edges.Press the seams to the back.

Stitch a strip of bias around the armhole at

1/8” seam allowance as shown. Gently ease

the bias around the curve, do not pull it.

Press. Add a few dots of glue to the strip and

fold so that the raw edges meet. Press to set

the glue. Run a line of glue along the folded

strip and press again enclosing the seam.

At the end of stitching thefirst half of the skirt, therewill be fabric left over.

This is a good thing! Place the dress on a

flat surface and fold it in half at center

front, matching the selvedge edges of the

skirt. Cut a notch on the unstitched piece

at the location of the side seam.

Let the machine do themath!

Place the bodice under the ruffler with the

side seam directly under the needle.Insert

the skirt into the ruffler with the side seam

also directly under the needle. Ruffler

setting 6, stitch length 2.5. Sew slowly. Do

not pull the skirt at all. The machine will

ruffle the skirt into the the bodice.

If you have a serger, use it tofinish all the raw edges thensew one side seam. Press.

Sew the skirt sections together along one

short side. You now have a very long piece

of fabric. Used a rolled hem on a serger to

finish the raw edge on the long side (peach

dress) OR sew the 2 10” bands on one

short side. Press the seam open. Match the

sides seams RST.

Because the ruffler is large,you will not be able to sewall the way.

Press the seam allowance out of

your way and then place the

dress on a flat surface.

Match the notch to the edge and start stitching

It’s easy to get nervous at this point because it’s difficult to know

for sure if there is enough fabric. Relax and let the machine do

it’s thing! If you stitch slowly and are careful not to

tug or push the fabric, it will work out just fine. Stitch as far as

you can, then cut the threads and take the garment off the

machine.

Using a serger makes shortwork of finishing the waistseam.

Using a 4 thread safety stitch, finsih

the raw edges of all layers at the

waist seam. If you are using a

conventional machine, trim the seam

allowances and finish them with an

overcsat stitch of narrow zigzag.

Set the ruffler to 12, keepingthe stitch length at 2.5

For the peach underskirt, sew a line of

ruffles along the top edge. Because

the ruffler setting is doubled, half the

amount of fabric will be used, creating

a perfectly even set of skirts. Baste

the underskirt to the the dress.

Use long thin pins to createpleats for the remainingspace.

Quilting pins are perfect to use here.

Measure the size of the ruffles that

have been made and pin the fabric so

that the ruffles continue. Stitch the

seam.

Use a stitch in the ditch foot to sew the neckline and

armhole bias in place. Contrasting thread was used

in the bobbin for photographic purposes, please use

matching thread on your project.

To complete the project, hand sew a hook and eye to

the neckline opening, ensuring that the closure

fastens the dress neatly.

Voila! A beautiful dress ready for your little girl!

http://www.shutterstock.com/gallery-180403p1.html


Now that you’ve learned how easy it is to use a ruffler,try it out on style for yourself! This über easy dirdlskirt is a snap to make for quick spring style. You willneed about 3 yards of 42” or 2 yards of 60” fabric forthe skirt plus a waistband measurement of fusiblewoven interfacing. Instructions are based upon 42”fabric with 60” instructions in parenthesis.

● Cut a waistband 5” wide on the crossgrain of yourskirt fabric by your waist measurement plus 2” forthe seam allowances and ease.

● Cut a 4” wide piece of woven cotton interfacing onthe straight of grain. It should be cut the length ofyour waist measurement plus 1”. Fuse this to thecenter of your waistband. There will be 1/2” offabric on all sides.

● Cut 3 (2 for 60”) pieces of fabric 26” long by thewidth of the fabric. Join pieces together with 1/2”seams. Finish the raw seam allowances. You nowhave one continous piece of fabric 80” (120”)wideby 26” long.

Make it in minutesDepending on your size, set the ruffler to either 6 or12. Fuller-figured sewers may wish to use setting 12.Stitch up a test piece first then place the waistbandunder the ruffler and insert the skirt into the unit.Start stitching about 1” away from the raw edge. Sewat 1/2” seam allowance. This seems huge for anenclosed seam but you will thank me for this advicein a few minutes! Stop stitching about 1” away fromthe raw edge. Remove the ruffler and finish the waistseam on both sides with a line of straight stitches.Press the seam allowances towards the waistband.Aren’t you glad for the advice? Yeah - those tinyruffles can be painful to press! Now trim the seamallowances down to 3/8”. Fold the long, unstitchededge of the waistband 3/8” and press. Insert aninvisible zipper and finish the back seam. Fold thewaistband over, right sides together and stitch it atthe back seam edge. Stithc in the ditch along thewaist seam to enclose the waistband. Add two hookand eye closures at center back.

Happy Spring!

Pretty Cotton Skirts are Cool & Comfortable

Skirt Photo on facing page: ©Copyright: Nadya Korobkova



Spring Savings!

22

DESIGNER AMANDA KOKER

Amanda Koker is the Ownerand Fashion Designer for

ASK Fashion LLC- Boston MAbased plus size women's wear

company and brand.

Getting started in the Fashion Industry is a

daunting task. With much of what we wear being

manufactured off-shore, there are decreasing

capabilities to produce stylish clothes that fit well

here in the U.S.A.

ASK Fashion is a small independent company

that is made in the USA. It has been running for

just about 2 years and has a collection of plus size

clothing available online at Amanda’s Etsy Store :

http://www.etsy.com/shop/ASKFashionLLC.

She currently designs and helps to produce plus

size dresses in sizes 14-28. ASK is fashion brand

with an attitude that features quality products

exclusively made in the United States.

Independent Designers

Getting started was a natural progression for Amanda, “I

have always been passionate about art and expressing myself

creatively. I have also been plus size my entire life. This was

unfortunate in the early 90’s when crop tops were the look of

choice. I took my own struggles and decided to solve my own

problems. I knew if I had this problem- other women must

have this problem too. So I took my name- Amanda

Stephanie Koker- and created ASK Fashion.”

Independent fashion designers are often plagued by a host of

problems from supply lines to fulfillment: and money is an

issue in any small business. “ I overcome challenges by

bootstrapping my business (funding it myself), going to

small business trade shows to find smaller fabric suppliers

and factories, taking classes to help with my marketing skills,

and making sure I always find time every day to do business,

and take time for myself. I sell my clothing online, and

through pop-up shops events during the year.

Amanda showcased her Spring/Summer 2016 ASK Fashion Collection,shown over the next few pages, at Boston Fashion Week.

Edgey, yet feminine ASK Fashion provides cool style for the plus-size market. The colorblocked dress, shown above is a comfortable option in Ponte Di Roma $79.95. Studdedand soft, the purple and black Punk Rock dress on the previous page is featured at theonline store for $89.95.

Loving the British inspired knit jacket? Contact Amanda for details!

Sposa2016

EMBROIDERY

CORNER

Embroidery Corner

This sweet tea cozy is simpleto make and great to give for

Mother’s Day, or anytime! Thesmall embroidery detail can bedone on a 4” x 4” hoop in about2 minutes and it is a great way

to use up scraps from yourfabric and trim stash.

A COZY WAY

TO PASS COOL

SPRING DAYS

Time for tea! Use our Brother Free Design this month to decorate the center of a tea cozy made from atea towel. The red work tea set design is the perfect accent to the circular applique we created from builtin Brother frame shapes. This is a quick project and while it’s perfect your next tea party it also makes athoughtful gift.

Materials and Supplies· Brother Sewing and Brother Embroidery machine or a

combination model

· Brother Embroidery Threads

· Brother Tear-Away Stabilizer

· Curved tip scissors for trimming appliqué.

· One tea towel measuring approximately 20-inches wide X

26-inches long.

· One 7-inch square piece of white tone on tone printed cotton.

· One 7-inch square piece of thin fusible fleece.

· Insulating batting for quilted side of tea cozy, two pieces

measuring 16-inches X 12-inches.

· Coordinating fabric for lining tea cozy two pieces measuring

16-inches X 12-inches.

· ¾ yard of 1-inch wide ruffled lace.

· Paper, straight edge ruler, and curved fashion ruler for

creating tea cozy pattern.

· Brother Free Design, redworkteaset.pes. *See Figure #1.

Instructions for Creating Tea Cozy

1. Begin by creating the tea cozy pattern as follows:

· Draw and cut a rectangle measuring 15-inches wide X

11-inches high. Fold paper half across the width of the

piece.

· Mark a dash line 5-inches in from the top corner and then

mark a second dash line 4-inches down from the top

corner. Use a straight edge to connect the two dash marks

and make a dot where they intersect at the center. Use

fashion ruler to draw a curved line beginning at center

fold and ending at the marked dot. See below:

Figure #1

Note: The featured free design will fit a4-inch hoop. To use the appliquétechnique with added lettering featuredhere you will need a hoop thataccommodates a design approximately6-inches round. We used an 8-inch hoopto stitch our design.

Designed exclusively for you from theBrother Education Department

· Finish by drawing a curved line beginning at the dot and

continuing to the bottom edge. *See Figure #2a and

#2b.

· Open folded paper to reveal complete pattern.

*See Figure #3.

Note: Our pattern is designed for a standard 6-cup teapot.

To make a trial pattern for your teapot we suggest cutting

one from craft felt, pin fit on your teapot, adjust, and then

alter pattern as necessary for your teapot size.

2. Wash, dry, and press the tea towel. Fold in half crosswise

and cut in half so you have one oversized piece for the tea

cozy front and one for the back.

3. Fuse fleece to wrong side of 7-inch cotton square.

4. Select one half of the tea towel to use for the front. Hoop the

piece with the width centered in the 8-inch hoop and tear

away stabilizer underneath. Layer cotton square in the center

with right side of fabric facing up. *See Figure #4.

5. Transfer design to machine. We added Time for Tea lettering

and used the array feature to arch the letters over the design.

Figure #2a

Figure #2b

Figure #3

Figure #4

6. Complete the design with a circular appliqué as

follows: Select a triple straight stitch circular frame

shape from the built in menu. Increase size to

surround combined design.

We increased our circle to equal 5.28” X 5.28”.

Next, Select the satin stitch circular frame shape and

increase the size so it is approximately one-quarter

inch larger than the first circle. We increased our

circle to equal 5.51” X 5.51”. *See Figure #5a and

#5b.

7. Embroider the design, stopping after stitching the straight

stitch circle. Use curved tip scissors to carefully cut away

fabric outside stitching line. *See Figure #6. Cover the raw

edges by stitching the satin stitch circle. *See Figure #7.

8. Center your tea cozy pattern over the circular appliqué. To

allow for some shrinkage during quilting, cut piece for front

with an additional 1/4-inch of fabric outside the pattern line.

Repeat this process to cut the back piece and two matching

pieces from insulating fleece. Layer fleece under each front

and back piece and quilt the layers together as desired,

quilting around the circular appliqué. We used a walking foot

to stitch around the circle and then followed the pattern on

the towel for quilted lines in a gridded fashion.

9. Use the tea cozy pattern to cut two pieces for lining. 10.To

create a loop for the top of the cozy cut a strip measuring

2-inches wide X 6-inches long from tea towel remnants. Fold

½-inch to the wrong side on each long edge, and then fold

in half and press. Top stitch close to each long edge to finish.

Figure #5a

Figure #5b

Figure #6

Figure #7

Designed exclusively for you from theBrother Education Department

11.Place pattern back on quilted pieces and trim to size. Baste

lace along ½-inch seam line of curved edge of front piece.

Pin loop at the top with all raw edges even. Layer back cozy

piece with front having right sides together. *See Figure

#8.

12.Sew the tea cozy seam for using a ½-inch seam allowance.

13.Place lining pieces right sides together and sew seam in the

same manner as you did for the tea cozy. Trim seams to

eliminate bulk and press both lining and tea cozy.

14.Turn both tea cozy and lining right sides out and press.

15.Slip lining inside tea cozy with wrong sides facing. Turn

under ½ inch along the bottom edge of each and hand stitch

to close the opening and secure the lining to the tea cozy.

16.Using small hand stitches stitch in the ditch of the seam to

tack the lining and tea cozy layers together, beginning and

ending a couple inches from each side of the loop at the top

of the tea cozy. You are finished!

Figure #8

Free EmbroideryGuide at the back

of this issue.

N�� P��! C�� WIP ��-��!

Scrappy Cat- Quarterly Project and Free Quilt Pattern

Approx. 60˝ x 75˝ quilt by Grace WilsonSew Purrfect Flannel and Woolies Flannel fab ric s b y Bonnie Sullivan for Mayw ood Stud io

Scrappy Cat

Designed b y Gra c e WilsonSew Purrfect Fla nnel a nd Woolies Fla nnel fa b ric s b y Bonnie Sulliva n for Ma ywood Stud io

Block Center: Sew one sma ll tria ng le toeach side of one 6½˝ sq ua re. Press outtowa rd s the tria ngles. Sew onesma ll triangle to the top and bottom of the 6½˝

sq ua re. Press out towa rd s thetria ng les. Ma ke 12.

2. Scenic Block: Sew one la rge tria ng le toea c h side of one Bloc k Center. Press out towa rd sthe tria ngles. Sew one la rgetria ngle to the top a nd b ottom of the b loc k c enter.Press out towa rd s thetriang les to make one 12½˝ b lock. Make 12.

Block Row: Using the d ia g ra m a s a guid e, sewtogether three Bloc ks a nd four3˝ x 12½˝ strips. Ma ke 4.

4. Sashing Row: Sew to geth er fo ur 3˝squa res a nd three 3˝ x 12½˝ strip s,a lterna ting them to make one sashing row. Ma ke5.

Use the Quilt Top Layout Diagram below as a guide tocomplete the following steps:

5. Sew together the five sa shing rows a nd four b loc krows, a lterna ting them to make the 46½˝ x 61˝q uilt to p.

Sew one 6½˝ x 61˝ Fab ric F strip to each side of thequilt top . Sew one 6½˝ x 58½˝ Fab ric F strip to the topa nd b ottom of the q uilt top .

7. Press yo ur q uilt top a nd la yer it. Quilt a s d esired .

8. Sew the seven 2½˝ x 42˝ Bind ing strip s toge therw ith d iag ona l seam s p ressedop en. Fold the b ind ing in ha lf, w rong sid estog ether and p ress to m ake a d oub le b ind ing .Sew to the quilt with a ⅜″ seam, m itering theco rners.

Scrappy Cat

Sc ra ppy Ca t 60˝ x 75˝ QuiltSku Fa b ric # Cut(s)

Fa b ric AMASF8318-JAexac tly ² yd

(thre e row s, c utin th e mid d le ofg ree n ric ra c .)

Fussy cut (12) 6½˝ panel squa res.

Fa b ric BMASF1841-E2

¾ yd

Cut (4) 5¼˝ x 42˝ strip s into : (24)5¼˝ squa resCut eac h sq ua re d iag ona lly onc e tom ake (48) sm a ll triang les

Fa b ric CMASF8317-JA

1⅛ yd s

Cut (5) 6⅞˝ x 42˝ strip s into : (24)6⅞˝ squa resCut eac h sq ua re d iag ona lly onc e tom ake (48) la rge triang les.

Fa b ric DMASF18506-TJ

1¼ yd s

Cut (3) 12½˝ x 42˝ strip s into : (31) 3˝ x12½˝ strip s for sa shing

Fa b ric EMASF18503-R

¼ yd

Cut (2) 3˝ x 42˝ strip s into :(20) 3˝ squa res

Fa b ric FMASF8315-JA

2 yd s

Cuts a re p a ra llel to the selvag e: (2)6½˝ x 61˝ strip s and(2) 6½˝ x 58½˝ strip s for out er border

Ba c kingMASF8316-JA

4 yd s

Cut (2) 68˝ x 42˝ p ieces.Sew the p ieces tog ether on the short ed g es and trim to make(1) 68˝ x 84˝ bac king p iec e.

Bind ingMASF18506-JA

5/ 8 ydCut (7) 2½″ x WOF strip s.

Take Advantageof ShowSpecials!

Visit us at the BooneCounty Home and Garden

Show April 14-16

We are so excited to be participating in the

Boone County Home and Garden Show!

This is our first show ever and we are

looking forward to sharing demos,

showcasing our machines and meeting up

with fellow sewists and quilters. At the show

We’re Going to the Show!

we will provide demonstrations on

the Brother CM650W - showing

how fast and easy cutting applique

pieces can be. The DreamCreator

and DreamWeaver will also be on

site from Brother.

Our Juki display will feature the

new HZL-DX7 and the MO-1000

together with the workhorse of the

serging world, the new MO-114D.

We will have special financing and

fun kits available too!

See you there!

Natalie’s Nook

www.littledressesforafrica.org

We’re not just sending

We’re sending

Catwalk to Closet

From the

Catwalk To Your Closet

M.Y.I.Pink is just prettyanytime but especiallyfor the Spring. We seethis as a sweet prom,bridal party or Easterdress based on New Look6341. Use the short

sleeve from View Ccombined with View B fora wonderful addision toyour spring wardrobe.Get the look withembroidered pink cottonknit or, try our cotton

sateen in aqua or lilac.Your choice, $12.95 peryard.

42

While Ralph Laurencontests that he doesn’t“do fashion” he certainlydoes style. Fresh cleanlines are a hallmark of hiscollections and this springis no exception. Thislovely maxi dress featureslayers of soft, flowing,printed chiffon in a classiccolor combination of navyand white for asophisticated yet playfullook.

New Look Pattern 6375whips up in a few hoursand View B would look oh-so-feminine. While knockoffs are a no-no, it is fineto admire and be

influenced by the greatdesigners.

For fabrics, I love the lookof the polyester Koshiboprints (shown left). Thenavy on white has just atouch of black while thefuschia is presented on apale pink backdrop. If youprefer a larger print, ourdelft blue roses (right) area nice option.

To add layers, simplycreate a style line justbelow the waist, cut semicircles in 2 or 3 lengthsand stitch them onto theskirt.

Fabrics: Koshibo Prints ineither Fuschia or Navy$12.95/ yard.Delft Blue Rose Print:$9.95/ yard

New Look Pattern 6375:$4.29 each

CLASSIC LINES FROMRALPH LAUREN

43

A model walks the runway wear-ing Ralph Lauren Spring 2016during New York Fashion Week.

©FashionStock.com

Monique Lhullier rockedthe Spring 2016 New YorkFashion Week runway withher bold lace in vibrantfucshia and coral orange.If you have never sewnwith lace before, there isa tutorial in this issueabout sewing with lace.

Bold colors hav alwaysbeen a favorite of mine,

from lime and orange (yestogether) to cyan andpink, brights will alwaysbe a big part of summerstyle.

For street wear, start witha more stable lace such asVenice or Guipuire lace(shown at left below) andlayer it with fun stretchlace in cool colors.

New Look pattern 6341 isa fun, cute way to stitchup a fun lace dress.

Lace is available in avariety of colors and styleranging from $10.95 -$79.99 / yard

BOLD LACE IN COLORPLAY

Stunning lace in boldcolors at the MoniqueLhullier runway showduring Spring 2016 NewYork Fashion Week at TheArc, Skylight at MoynihanStation.

©Copyright: Sam Aronov

Couture Designer Angela Wolf shares her views on Brother sewing machines in an interview with Brother Industries earlierthis year. Source: Brother USA.

Sewing Machines

ANGELA WOLFON BROTHER

SEWINGMACHINES

Even experts rely on the best tools in the industryto enhance their work and make their jobs easier.Internationally renowned fashion designer, Angela Wolf, hasbecome a household name for thousands of sewing enthusiastsworldwide by educating them on her design skills usingBrother sewing and embroidery machines.

As a successful custom couture designer for over 20 years,Angela has set the stage for elegance with her exclusive one-of-a-kind designs that showcase intricate hand embellishingand beading. In 2009, she experienced her first and favoriteBrother sewing machine – the Brother PQ1500. Two yearslater, she signed on as the anchor of the Brother-sponsoredPBS sewing show, It’s Sew Easy.

Since then, Angela has had the honor of being one of thefirst designers to experiment and create with the industry-first features found on some of the top

REVOLUTIONARYBROTHER FEATURESBECOME TOOLS OFTHE TRADE FORINDUSTRY EXPERT

RENOWNED FASHION DESIGNER &

BROTHER SEWING CONSULTANT,

AN GELA WOLF, SHARES HER TOP

BROTHER FAVORITES

THE BEST OF BROTHER

Take a journey along the world’s most legendary trade route through

the luxurious fabrics that were made and traded for centuries.

Discover traditional and modern sewing methods for creating

beautiful garments in today’s marketplace.

Look for it on our website at www.suturastyle.com Winter 2016.

“ THERE WAS A TIME I WOULD

SHY AWAY FROM CHALLENGING

PROJECTS,” AN GELA SAID. “ WITH THE

INNOVATIVE FEATURES FOUND ON

BROTHER MACHIN ES, I HAVE PEACE OF

MIND KNOWING THE GARMENT WILL

LOOK EXACTLY HOW I WANT IT TO –

WITHOUT ALL THE STRESS.”

Brother sewing and embroidery machines on themarket today.

“ Brother machines opened up a whole new world for me,”Angela explains. “ The features make it so simple to designand create.” As a self-proclaimed technology guru, Angelasays that the computer technology and features found inBrother machines make it a seamless transition. “ In today’sworld,we are all using some form of technology,” Angelaexplained. “ Brother has eliminated the learning curve bymaking the functions familiar and easy-to-use.”

Angela’s expansive knowledge of Brother machines andexperience in the industry have positioned her as one ofthe go-to experts for what’s hot and trending in fashionsewing and design. She has narrowed down her top sixfavorite Brother features and machines that she says haverevolutionizedher career.

Angela’s Top Brot her Favorit eFeat ures & Machines

• Scanning Feat ure using InnovEye® 2 Technology onTHE Dream Machine Innov-ís XV8500D. “ This is by farmy favorite Brother feature. It’s like having a built-incamera! It eliminates the guesswork,so I know exactly where my design will go and how itwill look before I even press a button. I will often scanin my garments using the ‘Scanning’ function built intothe machine. This way, I can see the design superimposedon the project so I can posit ion, rotate, color and resize itto fit my look!”

• THE Dream Fabric Frame. “ I absolutely love designingand embellishing fabrics on this 3' x 5' frame. It’s socompact, it fits in any room! Thread painting on myfabrics is my favorite. It adds dimension and texture tocreate custom and one- of-a-kind fabrics that I use tomake my garments. In fact, it’s a bit addictive. I wish Ihad one at the office and another one at home in frontof the firep lace!”

• The Persona PRS100. “ This is a perfect bridge machinebetween a basic sewing/embroidery machine and themulti-needle machines. It reallyis a ‘Singular Sensation,’ as it’s a very flexible singleneedle embroidery machine. It offers unique embroideryoptions and it’s compatible with iBroidery.com, so I canembroider Disney – even on caps! The verticalconfiguration of the machine allows me to easily accesshard to reach areas like caps, sleeves and bags. The capframe and driver set that comes with the machine allowme to embroider on hats – something I couldn’t do onmy tradit ional embroidery machines.”

• Sew Straight TM 2 Laser Vision Guide. “ This feature hasso many uses, particularly making it very easy to sewperfectly straight lines for top- st itching and quilt ing.For instance, st itching in the ditch is easier than ever. Isimply align the laser guide with the ditch and startsewing. My stitches never wander away from the seamand are always in a straight line!”THE Dream Machine

Angela’s Top Brot her Favorit esFeat ures & Machines (cont inued)• P Q1500SLPRW. “ This remains my first and favorite

Brother machine for sewing. It replaced my industrialmachines and the needle felting feature is a creativebonus. When I want to add texture and dimension tomy wool, fleece orsilk garments, I always make sure to use the needlefelting attachment. It elevates garment embellishmentto another level!”

• MuVit TM Digit al Dual Feed Syst em. “ This is aningenious feature that I can use on all kinds of fabrics,particularly sewing bags and layers of fabric. It providesme with virtually perfect stitching on difficult to sewfabrics like leather, faux fur and even silk! The best partabout this feature is thatI can digitally adjust the dual feed speed right on thescreen. It gives me that extra precision I always look forin my projects.”

Angela loves to share her passion for Brother with herviewers. In addition to her audience on It’s Sew Easy (whichjust filmed its eleventh season), Angela currently teachesclasses on PatternReview.com and has an impressive numberof 74,000 students on Craftsy.com (an online website forcreative learning), where she teaches sewing classes, usingall Brother machines. “ I’m asked at least once a week frommy viewers which Brother machine they should buy,”Angela stated. “ It’s a great feeling to know theyare watching, learning, and want one of the best machinesin the business.”

Angela has raised the bar when it comes to her passion forfashion. As a successful designer, she says it was important togive back. “ The main reason I altered my career fromdesigning to teaching was to get people excited and toinspire them to sew,” Angela said. “ I’ve had students rangingfrom six to 88 years old. The best part is that no matter howyoung or old you are, sewing allows your inner creativity toflow. Brother has hit the mark by making machines that arefun and easy- to-use for sewers at every skill level.”

Angela has expanded her designing and educating careerby launching the Angela Wolf Pattern Collection™, a lineof exclusive fan favorite designs for the home sewer. “ Theviewers know I always wear my own designs,” said Angela.“ It’s fun to hear their feedback, knowing they don’t wantto buy ‘off the rack’ anymore and are willing to trysewing their own clothes.”

Staying ahead of the fashion curve is critical in Angela’sbusiness. She says embroidery remainsone of the hottest elements in the sewing world, which goeshand-in-hand with the amazing embroidery capabilities onBrother machines. Taking center stage on the embroideryfront is the new Persona PRS100 single-needle embroiderymachine. This versatile, feature-packed machine is affordablypriced and is the perfect bridge for the home sewer whowants more embroidery capabilities without jumping rightinto the expense of a six- or 10-needle embroidery machine.Combining textures like quilting with denim, for example,is becoming a hot trend on garments that include jeans andjackets. “ It’s creativity on the embellishment side,” Angelaexplained. “ Machines like the Brother ScanNCut2 electroniccutting machine allow me to add another level of creativityto a garment with ease and precision.”

As a renowned custom couture designer, Angela has laboredthousands of hours on exclusive garments for her clients overthe years – doing much of the intricate work by hand. “ Theembellishment capabilities on Brother machines are equal tothe quality that I did

by hand,” Angela stated. The results look so rich that noone can tell the difference. The final products areimpeccable.”

With thousands of viewers and followers around theworld, Angela is grateful for the opportunity to share herpassion and inspire others to sew.“ I started sewing when I was six years old and continuedthroughout my college career,” Angela said. “ It wasn’tuntil I studied and learned the skills of proper garmentconstruction that I understood the mechanics of the craftand I have never turned back.” She says Brother hasdesigned sewing and embroidery machines with featuresthat designers have only dreamed of. “ What you thoughtwas a challenge and out of reach is now only a push of abutton away,” Angela said. “ Brother makes it easy to findthe designer in each of us.”

“ I’M ASKED AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK

FROM MY VIEWERS WHICH BROTHER

MACHINE THEY SHOULD BUY,”

AN GELA STATED. “ IT’S A GREAT

FEELING TO KNOW THEY ARE

WATCHING, LEARNING, AND WANT

ONE OF THE BEST MACHIN ES IN THE

BUSINESS.”

Sweaters For All WeatherCozy, comfy and ohhhh so nice to wear - when thecold weather hits, I reach for my favorite sweaterswith chronic regularity. And a wardrobe full oflacey, fuzzy, downright cuddly sweaters is just onepattern away.

Burda Patter 6990 is a true keeper. With 5 stylesthat range from classic to current, it’s easy tochoose a style for the moment. Enter a fun range oflight and heavy fabrics and a few stolen momentsat the machine and it is easy to stitch up somecasual style using the production method.

The production method involves cutting multiples ofthe same style and sewing them together. Thisbuilds muscle memory and allows you to finish inshort order. Here are some tips for makingsweaters for all weather.

● Decide to stitch either dark or light fabrics inone sitting

● Load the machine with a thread - such asblack or charcoal that will work for a varietyof colors

● Cut a few sweaters out, varying the necklineif you wish

● Start at the top and work your way to thehem of the sweaters

Choose an array of knit fabric in various weightsand in short order, you will have a stack of sweatersfor all weather.

Burda 6990

In 2008 by designers Shaikha

Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha

Haya Al Khalifa, cousins and

friends since childhood, debuted

their stunning collection in their

homeland of Bahrain after

studying Fashion Design in the

United States.

At just 25 years of age, their first

collection showed all the poise of

a pair of veterans and the styles

were welcomed and worn by

fashionistas and celebrities.

To launch the brand

internationally, an exclusive

event was held in Los Angeles in

July 2011. The launch was

followed by a presentation in

February 2012 during New York

Fashion Week, where the

designer’s displayed their Fall

2012 collection to editors,

journalists and celebrity guests.

Focus on Fashion: Noon By Noor

Since then, the duo has

consistently produced

collections that are a beautiful

blend of East Meets West, with

melange of flowing style lines

and crisp cuts. The collections

are fun to watch and easy to

envision in one’s closet. Exactly

what a collection should be.

The following pages are

highlights from the Spring 2016

Collection.

Noon by Noor can be found at

Saks Fifth Avenue Bahrain,

Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai,

Symphony Style, Harvey

Nichols Kuwait, Harvey Nichols

Riyadh, Per Lei Couture Doha,

Ron Herman LA, Elizabeth

Charles San Francisco and Le

66 Paris. Noon By Noor’s

online boutique facilitates

worldwide shipping.

Ponte di RomaThe Bridge Between Two Worlds

Ponte is on the

WAY!!

Ponte di Roma, also referred

to as PDR, Ponte Knit or

Ponte de Roma, is a double

knit fabric that is stable to

work with, has a lovely

drape and does not fray

making it the go-to choice

for designers and fabric

enthusiasts alike. The word

“ponte” means bridge in

Italian and Portugese. This

may refer to the knitting

methods used to create the

fabric but whatever the

reason, this knit is a bridge

between the worlds of

sewing with woven farbcis

and sewing with knits. For

those who are intimidated

about working with knit

fabrics, a stable material

like PDR is a joy to work

with. There are various

qualities involving greater or

less amounts of polyester

and rayon. Ours is arriving

in an array of beautiful

colors: Canary, Lilac, Navy,

Coral, Turquoise and Red.

Our summer weight fabric is

a super soft, drapey blend

of poly/cotton, rayon and a

drop of lycra for added

stretch.

Fabric in Focus: The Trending Colors of Summer

Beautiful knits are

rocking the runway of

of Spanish designer

Juanjo Oliva in Madrid

with his Spring

Summer Collection

2016. Bold, bright

colors are always in

style for summer and

this season is no

different with aqua,

mandarin orange,

canary yellow and coral

taking center stage.

His collection features

soft flowing lines that

speak of comfort and

style.

Story Photo Credit: catwalker / Shutterstock.com

A model walks the runway atRalph Lauren’s 2016 Spring

Fashion Show in NYC.

Bold geometric shapes and brightcolors wowed audiences and

editors alike.

New Spring FabricsWalking into our little shop and making sense of the fabric selection takes a practiced eye, which is

part of the reason why we create this magazine, to help sewists and quilters alike see the influence

revolving around our fabric choices.

Every one of the more than 150 new fabrics arriving over the next few weeks has been hand selected

for three things, price, quality and current trends. Most of our fabrics are new releases or classic

basics. If you haven’t been by in a while, why not stop in and see the new goods? Readers who live out

of town can look forward to our fabrics joining other products at our online store.

Fat quarters of theFaithfully YourCollection areexpected by mid-April.

New Spring Fabrics

Organic Cotton Knits in 5beautiful colors. Ultra-soft,

nice drape and a lovelyhand are characteristics of

these wonderful knits.Apple Green, Black,

Fuchsia, Red and White

New Spring Fabrics

This Pfaff Creative Performance has

been my demo machine and comes

with everything you need to create

spectacular results including the

Grand Dream Hoop shown above.

We are offering this demo machine at

over $2000 less than the current

market price.

Visit us in store to grab this fantastic

deal!

Seasonal Style

FREEDEMO

I�� found in somany places. The crisp stylelines of this printed top

contrast with the super soft textureof the fabric. I love wearingfeminine clothes that are practicaland our Asymmetrical Knit Top isperfect for spring with its doublelayers and figure flattering lines.

W� �� Mother’s Day all monthlong with fun classes,

special programs and free demos.Sign up in-store or by phone to joinus on Wednesdays for these freelessons.

F�� you will need 1½ yards of each sheersweater knit and our

featured splash knit. See theSpring Calendar in this issue fordates and times.

Editorial Series

Designer Secrets: Sewing With LaceThis article is an introduction to a series of articles for Bridal and Special Occasion

proper lace or silk pins tosecure the pieces through alllayers.

Tempting as it my be to skip thebasting - don’t do it! Bastingyour lace garment is anessential quality step. Use afine needle and one ply ofthread to thread trace thestitching lines. Cut out thepattern pieces, around themotifs that extend beyond theseam line. Gently remove thepattern pieces.

Baste the pieces together bylapping the garment edges andworking carefully with the rightside of the fabric up.

Sew the pieces together withfine thread and a narrow zigzagstitch, going around the motifs.The underlay privdes stabilitywhile sewing and adds shape tothe garment.

Preparing to Cut

Lace is actually much simpler tosew than it may seem, however itcan be very time consuming.

If this is your first lace project,pick something easy like dirndlskirt or simple top.

Trace out full pattern pieces ontopattern tracing fabric or tissuepaper. Cut right and left sides byflipping the pattern pieces over.

Lay out your underlay fabric in asingle layer. Place the lace on topof it, also in a single layer.

Lay out all your pattern pieceson the lace. Ensure that the mainmotif is at the center of yourpattern piece and that thegalloon (scalloped) edgescorrespond to the hems of yourpattern pieces such as sleevehems and skirt hems. Lace doesnot have grain so feel free tomove the pieces around formatching the pattern. Use

The lace overskirt of thisbridal gown is cut so that thescalloped edge is at the hem,saving the need to hem the

garment.

For more information on sewing with lace, I highly recommend reading Couture Sewing Techniques and Fabric SewingGuide, both by Claire B. Shaeffer (p. 199 -206), and the out of print book, Singer Sewing Reference Library, Sewing with

Specialty Fabrics.

At up to an eye-watering $600/yard,Chantilly Lace can a daunting prospectfor the most skilled dressmaker. This

tutorial provides the basic methods forsewing “big box store” lace. More finesewing methods will be shared in theupcoming “Sposa” edition. You willneed pattern tracing fabric and anunderlay fabric such as organza or

tulle for this method.

6

Excellence

Redefined

Redefined

5

Looking online for sewing machine reviewsyielded about 12,800,000 results in 0.42seconds with Google. Most of the machinesthat came up can be ordered online and thereviewers include a link that takes theconsumer to the site, making the purchaseprocess very easy. Last edition, the bestsergers were covered across the board, butnow that we are Authorized Dealers for Jukiand Brother, it behooves me to focus on what Iwork with everyday.

Juki rang in the New Year in an astonishingmanner bringing out 6 new machines and anew serger. The new HZL-DX7 replaces theF-600 as the top of the line sewing machinefrom Juki. Fans of the F-600 may be upset butthis new model is packed with features thatsewers and quilters alike are going to love.

The first of these is the float function which isdesigned to prevent uneven seams andbunching when quilting. This is a huge benefitfor those who like to work with stretchyfabrics like minky. The presser foot pressure isreduced in 0.1 mm increments allowing themost difficult fabrics to pass under the presserfoot smoothly. I remember struggling to getmy presser foot pressure just right byadjusting it manually. Nice step forward.

Another new feature to look forward to is theFoot Switch Function. You can now customizehow the heel tap mechanism works on yourmachine. Choices include:

● Lifting the presser foot,

SURPASSING GREATNESS: THE NEW JUKI DX7 VS. THE F-600● Trimming the threads,

● Reverse stitching, and

● Sewing a single stitch.

The machine also has increased speed - up to1050 s.p.m. The F-600 had 900. If thatseems like too much, the DX-5 and the DX-7have Low Speed Inching Sewing. Basicallythe machine will slow right down to a “snailstuck in molasses” pace for those times whenprecision counts the most.

My favorite new feature is the straight stitchslide plate. With the flip of a switch, themachine transforms from zig zag mode tostraight stitch only - perfect for quilters andfine garment sewers alike. The machinerecognizes when the switch has been madeso no more slamming the needle into theplate (I’ve done this a few times after takinga break from sewing) when a new stitch isselected. It just doesn’t sew and moreimportantly, it let’s you know. It can behumbling to sit at a machine with a bettermemory than I have.

Although the machine is remarkably simplein appearance, it has incredible power. Ikicked it up to full speed using straightstitch, zig zag and a satin stitch. Some thingshave to be seen to be believed, so c’mon byand visit the shop. We’ve got plenty of coolnew things to show your from Juki.

JUKI ISBETTER

THAN EVER

We Suggest:

Printed Chiffon $9.95/yard

For Mickey and Sew Much More!The Dream Machine.

Designer Sewing Center 8 S. Main St Whitestown, IN 317-768-3023 www.designersewingcenter.com

Learning to Sew is as Easy as 1-2-3!

Spring/Summer 2016 Class Calendar

Designer Sewing Center8 South Main Street, Suite 103, Whitestown, IN

Phone: 317-768-3023

Learn to sew,use a serger,

make patterns& more!

Mother’s Day

www.designersewingcenter.com

MAY 8, 2016

Mother -DaughterSewing Classes!

Workshops andGuest Events!

MONTH LONGCELEBRATIONS!It’s gonna be SEWmuch FUN!


At Designer Sewing Center we have classes, workshops, courses and programs for every

age and skill level! Whether you are an 8 year old making a first outfit or 98 with

decades of experience, there is always something to learn!

Sewing, Quilting, Crafting - oh my!

ProgramsFor everyone

4 3-Hour Sessions $279



1 3-Hour Session $79

1 3-Hour Session $79 1 3-Hour Session $49

8 3-Hour Sessions $590 1 3-Hour Session $49

Course 13

Sutura Professional Fit- Alterations

Get the tips and tricks you need to do yourown alterations! In this workshop students

will learn how to:

● Sew invisible hems by hand or machine● Take in skirts and pants at the waist● Taper pant legs● Adjust T-shirts for full/small bust

This workshop is 2 hours long. Fabric formethod samples is included.

Designer Collection

The Designer Collection Course is theculmination of all that you have learned thusfar. Pre-requisites are Sew Like a Pro, Serge

Like a Pro and your choice of eitherDressmaking or Tailoring. In this intense 8-

week course students will:

●Develop an apparel collection of 8-12 pieces●Design/source accessories to coordinate withthe collection●Create patterns and technical drawings●Construct an entire apparel collection usingthe skills acquired in previous coursesStudents will need to purchase fabric and

pattern making supplies for theirprojects. Textbook fees are not included

Designer Sewing Center 8 S. Main St. Whitestown 317-768-3023 www.designersewingcenter.com


Full Day Workshop $39




S�� S�� P�� C��

Weekly 1.5 Hour Sessions$17.50/class paid monthly at $70

Weekly 1 Hour Sessions$15.00/class paid monthly at $60

Sew Simply

Sutura Novice Class

Get the tips and tricks you need to get startedsewing! In this class students will learn how

to:

● Thread the machine and adjust tensions● Understand basic patterns● Choose woven fabrics● Install a zipper

This program is 2 hours long. Fabric formethod samples is included.

Machine Embroidery

Sutura Style Embroidery

Discover how easy it is to:

● Hoop a variety of fabrics● Use the correct stabilizer● Select threads and needles for the

project● Work with difficult fabrics such as terry

cloth

This workshop is 2 hours long. Fabric formethod samples is included.

Quilts and Home Décor

Sutura Style for the Home

In this single session class your instructorwill demonstrate methods to:

● Make Grommet or Pocket Rod Curtains● Sew a pillow cover● Make a simple mini quilt● Stitch basic table linens such as

placemats, runners and table clothes

This is an all day workshop. Please bring alunch for the break. We will be doing methodsamples, not making actual décor items.

Tailoring 101

Sutura Tailoring 101: Pants and Skirts

You will be guided step-by-step as you learnhow to:

● Mark and cut your patterns fortailoring methods

● Sew professional darts● Baste your projects● Create a two or four piece waist band● Make a fully lined skirt or pair of slacks

Tailoring 102

Sutura Tailoring 102: Jackets & Shirts

You will be guided step-by-step as you learnhow to:

● Mark and cut your patterns fortailoring methods

● Sew professional bodice darts● Interline your projects● Create a professional style shirt , blouse

or,● Make a fully-lined jacket.

Fashion Sewing Rocks

Designed with Teens in mind, this once-per-week sessions are jammed packed with

everything budding designers want to know.Learn how to re-style patterns to make themlook just how you want. Get insider tips and

tricks to sew a truly cool outfit.

In your program you will learn how to workwith a variety of machines and:

● Press for success● Make great clothes● Add embellishments● Create durable styles● Draft simple patterns

Course 13

Designed with Kids in mind, this once-per-week sessions are jammed packed with

everything young sewers want to know. Learnhow to:

● Work with 1-3 piece patterns● Press for success● Add embellishments● Express your own ideas● Make your choice of garments - there

are several to choose from!

Get the tips and tricks you need to get startedwith your Juki serger! In this class students

will learn how to:

● Thread the machine● Understand how to create basic seams● Choose knit fabrics and specialty threads● Stitch up a fun project!

This program is 2 hours long. Fabric formethod samples is included.

As always, you get to choose yourproject! Visit us in-store to see theoptions for this program

Designer Sewing Center 8 S. Main St. Whitestown 317-768-3023 www.designersewingcenter.com


S��-A-L�� N�� Dawn

Sewing clothing is fun and easy! On Wednesday afternoons join Natalie for

a sew-a-long starting in May. Various projects.

Free Programs

Q�� C��

Come on over to the shop and stitch along with us as we make a variety of

quilts. Each month there is a featured project with demos and free quilting

instructions. We provide the machines and the instructions. Project pattern

purchase is optional. Runs every Tuesday from 10:30-12:00

March-April: Down on Grandpa’s Farm Crib Quilt

May: My Mother’s Garden

June: OPA!B�� “S��”��

Caring about the community is a big part of who we are at Designer Sew-

ing Center. Join us each Thursday at 10:30 a.m. as we explore “God’s

Promises of Hope for Women”. We have a short devotional and then get

busy sewing for the community and various charities. We are currently

working on Little Dresses and Shorts for Africa. More charities will be add-

ed as the group grows.We have limited seating in our class area. Please call the store to reserve

your place if you wish to attend.


MOTHER’S DAY

CELEBRATIONS

07

14

21Quilt ExpressIf you have ever wanted to learn how to quilt, thisone day workshop will teach you all the basics fromsewing a perfect 1/4” seam to piecing. We will bemaking a 4 block sampler quilt. 11:00 - 4:00

May 21,2016

2 for 1

Mot

her’s Day Special

Classes

* 2 for 1 Class price applies to two people registered for the same class at the same time. Only one special offer maybe used either the “2 for 1 special” OR the “take all three and get the machine free” but not both. Kit fees are extra.

Mother’s Day Sewing SpectacularIt’s a great time to treat yourself to something fun!Join us for a full day workshop that empowers youwith the basics of sewing, pattern cutting andquilting. Learn in a day! 11:00 - 4:00 May 14, 2016 $79

Mommy & Me Sewing ClassesJoin us for a Mother-Daughter sewing class at a spe-cial Mother’s Day price! In this 2 hour workshop youwill learn to set up the machine and sew a fun projectthat makes a great gift! Two Sessions: 10:30- 12:30& 1:30-3:30 May 7, 2016

A Juki

FREE!

TAKE

ALL3

GE

T

$39

$99

$9 Value!

Tailoring is aNOBLE Professionand worthy ofbeing pursued

SPECIAL PROGRAMS

Father & Son Sew AlongJune 4: 10:30-12:00

2 for 1 Classes!

Tailoring TraditionsJune 11, 11-4

Father’s DayWeekend 6/18-19

Denim & LeatherJune 25, 10:30-4:30

Father’s Dayis June 19th

Father & Son Sew Along: Make a grill kit while learning how to sew! $39

Tailoring Traditions: Passing along the art of fine tailoring we will make a tailored vest. $99

Denim and Leather Workshop: Learn how to make a great pair of jeans, leather belt and bag in thisfull day workshop. $129

* 2 for 1 Class price applies to two people registered for the same class at the same time. Only one special offermay be used either the “2 for 1 special” OR the “take all three and get the machine free” but not both. Kit fees

and some class materials are extra.

AJUKI

Take all 3 andget


Discover a World ofCreative Fun!

The EarlyBird Gets aMachine!

Sutura Kids Summer Camp

Have a blast while learning to sew! DesignerSewing Center has three different weekly campsfor 8-12 year-old students. As always with SuturaStyle programs, student will have a choice ofprojects. We offer non-clothing and clothingoptions for boys and girls. Sutura Kids iscompatible with 4-H Apparel and Textilesprograms. Kids will have the chance tomake Practice/Service projects,and fun items forthemselves too!

Designer Sewing Center8 S. Main St, Suite 103, Whitestown, IN, 46075

317-768-3023 www.designersewingcenter.com

Registering early really pays off! Thefirst six students to register for WeekOne get to keep the Brother SB530Tsewing machine that they willlearn on in class! A $179 Value!

Triple Crown! The first six studentsto register for all three sessions get tokeep their SB3129 - a $449 Value! Toqualify, a parent or

guardian must complete theRegistration Form found online at:www.designersewingcenter.com

and return it to us with theregistration fee of $229 per week byMarch 31, 2016. Camp is from 9:00 -12:00 Monday to Friday and includesall patterns, fabric, notions andsupplies for practice and sewingprojects.

Session 1: June 13-17, Session 2: June 20-24, Session 3: June 27- July 1, 2016


Program April Dates May Dates June Dates

Sew Like A Pro Sat: 2,9,16,23 @ 11:00 Wed: 4,11,18,25 @ 6:00 Mon 6,13,20,27 @ 6:00

Serge Like A Pro Wed: 6,13,20,27 @ 6:00 Tue: 3,10,17,24 @ 6:00 Wed: 1,8,15,22 @ 6:00

Dressmaking& Bridal DNR Wed: 1:00 Tue: 7,14,21,28 @ 5:00

Tailoring 101 Mon: 4,11,18,25 @ 6:00 DNR DNR - See Father’s DaySpecial Programs

Tailoring 102 DNR Mon: 2,9,16,23 @ 6:00 DNR - See Father’s DaySpecial Programs

Sutura Pro Fit Bodices Tue: 19 @ 6:00 DNR- See Special Mother’sDay Programs DNR

Sutura Pro Fit Skirts& Pants

Tue: 5 @ 6:00 DNR- See Special Mother’sDay Programs DNR

Just Jeans - DenimJeans & Skirts

Tue: 12 @ 6:00 Wed: 25 @ 2:00 DNR - See Father’sDaySpecial Programs

Novice Sewing Class Wed: 13 @ 2:00 DNR- See Special Mother’sDay Programs

DNR - See Father’s DaySpecial Programs

Novice Serger Class Mon: 4 @ 2:00 Tue: 10 @ 1:00 DNR

Home Décor & More Mon: 18 @ 10:00 DNR- See Special Mother’sDay Programs DNR

Sutura KidsMon: 4,11,18,25 @ 5:00Tue: 5,12,19,26 @ 4:30

Sat: 2,9,16,23,30 @ 9:00

Mon: 2,9,16,23 @ 5:00Tue: 3,10,17,24 @ 4:30Sat: 7,14,21,28 @ 9:00

CAMP STARTS!

Fashion Sewing Rocks September Start September Start September Start

Machine Embroidery Tue: 26 @ 6:00 Wed: 18 @ 1:00 DNR

Alterations DNR Wed: 11 @ 1:00 DNR

Designer Collection September Start September Start September Start

*DNR: Does Not Run this monthSeptember Start: This program is longer in duration and will start back in the Fall

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Mod Q

Mod QMODERN QUILTING METHODS

Scan N Cut Quilt

Using a machine to cut the fabric for my applique turned out to be a bit of an adventure!Last month, Toni Weresch, Brother Educator and Digitizing Guru, visited us at DesignerSewing Center. One of the machines she taught us about was the Scan N Cut CM650W.The machine was a sheer joy to use and oh-so-simple to work with once I had a littletraining. I was able to put together a little Valentine’s Day hot pad fairly quickly - muchfaster that if I had to cut all the little pieces by hand. The next project was the first blockin our March/April quilt “Down on Grandpa’s Farm.

Continued on the next page

This simple quilt uses the Brother CM650W to accurately cut out the pieces andnovice level stitching techniques to piece it all together. Part 1

Using the fun farm animal

print as our focus fabric,

this easy-to-make crib

quilt is a great way to

learn how to quilt. With

just 6 blocks, you will have

the chance to learn basic

methods for:

● Applique

● Paper piecing

● Free motion quilting

● Framing the blocks

● Binding the quilt You

can choose from 6

simple animal blocks:

● Pig

● Cow

● Rooster

● Chicken

● Sheep

● Goose

For the block, gather

together solids or blenders

in the colors that are

shown in the Happy

Homestead Cream

Figurines fabric shown

here. Each applique is

about 5 1/2” high so fat

eigths work well.

You are all invited to join us in the shop everyTuesday starting March 22 as we stitch up thisDawn Abbey Quilt Design.

Always choose a light, medium and dark fabric for your

quilt if you want it to “pop”. Bold colors like red and blue

(dark) contrast well with the off-white background of the

focus fabric. The tan color is a medium range (colors vary

on screen) and we are using a light blue, medium yellow

and medium peach to add balance.

When choosing fabrics:

● for the blocks: 2/3 yard of light background fabric cut into 6

x 9 1/2” squares,

● Fat eigths or scraps of blue, red, brown/tan, white, light

blue, peach and yellow fabrics,

● 1/2 yard of each red, off white and blue fabric,

● 1 yard of fusible web,

● A crib sized quilt batt,

● 1 yard of fabric for the quilt back, and

● 2 packages of extra wide double fold bias tape.

Prepare the fabric by washing it, cutting off the selvedges and

pressing it with starch. The fabric should have a nice crisp hand

to it. I recommend using Mary Ellen’s Best Pressed Starch

Alternative. Lightly mist the fabric and press it carefully from

the wrong side. Repeat this process, creating layers of starch as

needed to get a crisp hand.

You Will Need:

© Copyright Dawn Abbey Inc. Permission is granted to reproduce and resize this design for personal use only. No commercial use is allowed.

© WonderUnder is the copyright of PCP Group LLC.

EarEar

Hoof

Hoof

Hoof

Hoof

Fore

Leg

Fore

Leg

Back

Leg

Back

LegBody

Face

Tail

Head

Trace all pattern pieces onto a fusible web product such as

WonderUnder© on the paper side. Cut each shape neatly

on the lines and fuse it to your fabric. Following the lines,

cut out your fabric. Leave the paper backing on the pieces

and store them in a plastic zip closure bag until you are

ready to use them.

Quick and Easy Steps to Success!

Start by preparing the fabric with Terial Magic and back it with Fusible Web. Scan the pattern provided into yourScan N Cut Machine. Place a Fabric Cutting Sheet onto your 12” mat, smoothing out all the bubbles with a rubberspatula or credit card. Line up a 6” x 12” strip of fabric at the bottom of the cutting sheet, 2.5 ” strip of green forthe grass and a 3.5” x 8” rectangle for the face and legs. Add a 3.5” x 4” rectangle of dark blue into the remainingspace. Use the Placement Function to place all the pieces on their corresponding fabric and cut. Remember to keepthe paper side up when placing your fabric - I ruined a cutting mat when I was learning by accidentally placing thesticky side down! The grass is made of the machines jagged edge rectangle stretched out to 9 1/2” x 1 1/2”.

Peel off the paper backing. Place all your applique pieces on the block background, layering them as shown. Lift off all the top layersand press to adhere the pieces to the background fabric. Stitch the grass pieces first using a long straight stitch to create the look ofindividual blades. Try variegated thread for a touch of realism. Use a narrow, 3 mm satin stitch on the tail and legs. Add the body, hoofsand face. Press the body and the hoof but NOT THE FACE. Sew a basting stitch around the body one side of the face as shown. Trimaway the excess fabric under the face and under the body. Sew a satin stitch all the way around all parts. Add the ears and head.Press in place and sating stitch.

Embroidery Guide

TIPS AND TRICKS FROM THE MASTERS AT EMBLIBRARY.COM

WWW.EMBLIBRARY.COM

Fabrics 101 Stabilizer & Design Guide

FABRICS 101 STABILIZER & DESIGN GUIDE

When fabric is produced, manufacturers don't anticipate that anythingwill be added to it. When embroidering onto fabric, we're adding weightand tension of thread and stitches. The fabric needs to be stronger andmore "stable" to support the stitches - and that is why stabilizer is usedwith every embroidery project.

If the fabric isn't stabilized properly, you'll see less-than-stellar results.You might find shifting and gapping, puckering, dimpling, and more.Choosing the right type of design and stabilizer for your fabric is the keyto getting great results.

Below you will find a handy reference chart to help you select the rightstabilizer and needle for creating machine embroidery on a variety offabrics.

Stabilizer/Backing Design Needle

Aida Cloth Cutaway Any.75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used.

Balsa Wood CutawayChoose light designs,such as Redwork, toile,or vintage.

75/11 embroidery oruniversal needle

Batiste Water soluble or tear-away

Choose light and opendesigns.

75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used

Broadcloth Cutaway

Choose light designs,such as toile, vintage,Redwork, or designswith light and openareas.


Burlap Cutaway

Choose solid, stitch-filled designs. Avoidlight designs (they willget lost in the weave ofthe burlap).


Canvas Cutaway Any.75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used

Chamois Cutaway

Any; but be cautious ofrunning-stitch designs(like Redwork) that mayget lost in the nap of thefabric.

75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used.

Charmeuse Cutaway

Any, but considerdraping (choose opendesigns for betterdraping).


file:///F|/Source/ELProjects/html/PR1153.html (1 of 6) [3/24/2014 12:44:51 PM]

Textiles Talk


Chiffon Water-soluble Open, airy, and light.75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used.

Cloth Diapers Cutaway

Designs of anycomplexity will workwell. Choose smalldesigns or designs withopen areas to avoidleaking


Confetti Dot Cutaway

If using a large design,choose open, airy, andlight; if a small design,solid-filled.

75/11 sharp needle(necessary to penetratethe "dots)

Corduroy Cutaway

Any for narrow wale;for wide wale, choosesolid-filled designs(avoid running-stitch orRedwork designs).


Denim Cutaway Any.75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used.

Faux Fur CutawaySolid-filled designs;avoid Redwork or lightdesigns.


Faux SuedeCutaway in mostcases; tear-away withlight designs

Any, but considerdraping.

75/11 sharp needle(necessary forpenetrating thickerfabric)

Faux Leather Cutaway

Any, but considerdraping (open designswill give the bestdraping).

75/11 sharp needle(necessary for leavingsmall perforations inthe material)

Felt Cutaway Any.75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used.

Flannel Cutaway Any.75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used.

FleeceCutaway; tear-awaymay be used for simpleand light designs

Any (but in somecases, running-stitch orRedwork designs mayget lost in the fabric).

75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery oruniversal needle mayalso be used.

Gabardine Cutaway Any (but considerdraping).


Hemp CutawayAny, but can dependon the weight of thefabric.




HomespunCutaway or tear-awaydepending on the fabricblend

Light and open designsfor cotton/poly blends,solid-fill designs forsturdier 100% cottonhomespun.


Jersey Knit Cutaway

Low to mediumcomplexity designs, ordesigns with openareas, will work best.

10/70, 11/75, or 12/80sharp or embroideryneedle.

Leather Cutaway

Choose designs thathave been digitizedspecifically for leather,or light and sheerdesigns.

80/12 leather needle.

Linen CutawayChoose designs withopen areas for bestdraping.

75/11 sharp needle.

Micro Pique CutawayChoose light and airydesigns for bestdraping.

75/11 sharp needle.Ball point andembroidery needlesmay also be used.

Microfiber CutawayChoose small tomedium-size stitch-filled designs.


Minkee (MicrofiberPlush) Cutaway

Choose solid-filleddesigns; sheer orRedwork designs willget lost in the fabricnap.


MoleskinCutaway; tear-awaymay be used for simpleand light designs

Any.75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used.

MuslinCutaway; tear-awaymay be used for simpleand light designs

Choose light, open,and airy designs.

75/11 sharp needle. Anembroidery needle mayalso be used.

Neoprene Cutaway Any. 75/11 sharp needle.

Nylon Cutaway

Choose designs withlight to mediumcomplexity; applique isalso a great choice.

75/11 sharp needle.

Nylon Pet Screen Water-soluble

Choose medium-to-complex designs. Avoidlight designs, such asRedwork, as those willget lost in the fabric.


Organza Water-soluble Choose light, open,and airy designs. 75/11 sharp needle.



Outdoor Weather-Resistant (Sunbrella) Cutaway Any. 75/11 sharp needle.

Pashmina Water-soluble Choose light, open,and airy designs.


Pique CutawayChoose designs of anycomplexity, butconsider draping.


Polyester Shantung CutawayChoose designs of lowto medium complexity,but consider draping.


Pre-Quilted Cutaway Any.75/11 sharp needle.An embroidery needlemay also be used.

PUL Cutaway Designs of varyingcomplexity work well.

75/11 sharp needle (forsmallest perforations)

Quilter's Cotton Cutaway Choose designs of lowto medium complexity.


Ribbon Cutaway Choose designs of lowto medium complexity.


SatinCutaway; tear-awaymay be used for simpleand light designs

Choose designs of lowto medium complexity.


Sherpa CutawaySolid-filled designs;avoid sheer orRedwork designs.


SilkCutaway for heaviersilk; tear-away for lightand translucent silk

Choose light andsimple designs fortranslucent silk; canuse more complexdesigns with heaviersilk.


Spandex CutawayChoose open designs,with light to mediumcomplexity.


Straw Hats Tear-away or water-soluble

Any (but can dependon coloration of straw). 75/11 sharp needle.



Sweater Knits Cutaway

Dependent on type ofknit; choose lightdesigns for tightly-woven knit, and morecomplex and filleddesigns for knits with aloose weave.


Sweatshirts Cutaway Any (but considerdraping).


Taffeta CutawayChoose open and airydesigns for bestdraping.


T-Shirts (Cotton/Knit) CutawayChoose designs of lowto medium complexity(consider draping).


Towels (Tea, FlourSack)

Cutaway; can use tear-away if using light orRedwork designs

Choose designs withlow to mediumcomplexity.


Towels (Terrycloth,Linen) Cutaway

For linen towels,choose designs of anycomplexity. Forterrycloth, choosedesigns of mediumcomplexity; avoidRedwork or running-stitch designs.


Tulle Water-soluble

Light designs with openareas (avoid Redworkor running-stitchdesigns).


Velour Cutaway

Designs of medium-to-high complexity. Avoidlight or running-stitchdesigns.


Velvet Cutaway

Choose designs withmedium to highcomplexity. Avoid lightor running-stitchdesigns.


Vinyl / Oilcloth Cutaway

Choose designs withlow-to-mediumcomplexity. Avoid verycomplex designs.

75/11 sharp needle.

Waffle Weave Cutaway

Choose designs withmedium to highcomplexity. Avoid light,sheer, or running-stitchdesigns.




Wool Cutaway

Any, but consider theweight of the wool. Forlightweight, chooselight and airy designsfor the best draping.


Brands of stabilizer:

Each brand and type of stabilizer has strengths and weaknesses, and everyone has their favorites. Here's what we use:

Cutaway. Choosing a soft and pliable cutaway stabilizer (nothing stiff) will bring the best results, both during embroidery and duringwear/use/laundering of the item as well. We use a 2.5 ounce cutaway called Soft-n-Stable made by Brother. We also enjoy a wide variety of theFloriani cutaway products (in particular, No-Show Mesh).

Tear-away. We get great results with Terradon Clean Tear, as well as Floriani tear-away products.

Water-Soluble. Vilene (a fibrous water-soluble product) is a dream to work with when making freestanding lace items. We've also usedSulky Ultra Solvy with excellent results.

Notes about needles: We prefer to use a size 11 sharp needle (not an embroidery needle) in all of our projects. A sharp needle has a fineand small point, whereas an embroidery needle has a rounded tip. A sharp needle will give a crisper and neater look to the stitches than anembroidery needle.

When embroidering and using a cutaway backing, you can use an embroidery needle instead of a sharp needle (the difference in the results willlikely be negligible). However, if you are using tear-away or water-soluble stabilizer (for in-the-hoop or freestanding lace projects), always use asharp needle. Using an embroidery or universal needle will rip, tear, or leave large holes in the stabilizer. That can cause misalignment issues,as well as thread looping, breaks, and other tension problems.

Questions or comments? Send us an email! The address is [email protected].


Call to book a demo today!Designer Dewing Center: 317-768-3023

8 South Main Street, Whitestown, 46075

Prize Winners!

GrandOpening

PrizeWinners!

Congratulations to our 16 Lucky Winners of a$165 Gift Certificate!

1. Rick Whiteman

2. Melissa Howell

3. Ruth Anne Emmert

4. Betty Chelf

5. Carla McFarlane

6. Robert Gunmere

7. Shelley Peters

8. Bonnie Pfister

9. Jessica Lile

10. Crystal Reichert

11. Donna Stackhouse

12. Eileen Adam

13. Abbie Samson

14. Barbara Zajdel

15. Nancy Richardson

16. Cheryl Hamilton

Thank you to all our students and customers for your wonderful support during our Grand Opening! Those listed above pleasecall the store at 317-768-3023 or come in to Designer Sewing Center, 8 S Main St. Suite 103, to claim your prize! All prizes

must be claimed by 3/31/2016. Prizes must be used by 06/30/2016. Unclaimed prizes will result in a new drawing and yourunclaimed prized will be passed on to another person. Prizes have no cash value.


Got a Passion for Fashion?

Membership to The Sutura Club is included with your program! Take advantage of special savings onfabrics, exclusive events, demos, and more.

Visit us online or in store for more information!

Join the Sutura Club!

Copyright © 2016 Dawn Abbey Inc.8 South Main Street, Whitestown, IN, 46075

www.dawnabbey.comAll rights reserved.

No part of this booklet may be reproduced in any form, unless otherwisestated. Dawn Abbey Inc assumes no responsibility whatsoever for theuse of the information herein. The information in this booklet ispresented in good faith, but no warranty is given, nor results guaranteed.Dawn Abbey Inc. disclaims all liability from any injury to anyoneundertaking the activities described in this book as a result of impropersafety precautions. Since we have no control over physical conditionssurrounding the application of information taught or herein contained,Dawn Abbey Inc. disclaims any liability for untoward results.

sutura style spring 2016

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