shea radiance lotion making theory gsa
Post on 19-Oct-2014
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INTRODUCTION TO EMULSIONS
How to Make Body Lotions & Creams
By
Shola Alabi
Shea Radiance
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WHAT IS AN EMULSION?
✳An emulsion is the process of mixing two or more liquids that are naturally not mixable.
✳When the emulsion is done correctly, the two or more liquids are not separable.
✳There can be oil in water emulsion- where oil is dispersed in water.
✳There can also be water in oil – where water is dispersed in oil.
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THE BASICS PHASES EMULSION
✳Water
✳Oil
✳Emulsifier
✳Humectant
✳Thickener
✳Heat & Agitation
✳Preservatives
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WATER PHASE
✳Water is a diluent and a carrier of other ingredients
✳Use only Distilled Water or De-ionized Water. Tap Water or Pure Water is not recommended
✳Pure or Tap water contains dissolved minerals that cause the lotion to go bad
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OIL PHASE
Oils and butters allow your formulation to have richness. The type of oil used can affect the feel, spread and viscosity of your lotion.
✳Recommended usage rate of oil can be up to 25%
✳ Select oils based on what is available to you. Example: Shea Butter; Cocoa Butter; Olive oil; Coconut oil; Soy Bean oil; Sweet Almond oil
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BUFFERS
Used to adjust pH level of Creams and lotions
✳If emulsion is acidic, use an alkaline solution to bring up pH. Levels of (2-3) can cause skin irritation
✳Ideal pH should be between 5.5 and 7
✳If pH is too high, it can burn skin
✳Certain preservatives may not work in high pH cream or low pH
✳Common buffers are citric acid or Sodium Hydroxide to adjust up or down.
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EMULSIFIERS
Emulsifiers allow oil and water to mix together and not separate.
✳Recommended usage rate of an emulsifier can be 3% - 5%
✳The HLB value of the emulsifier should match the HLB requirement of the oil.
✳O/W emulsion: use high HLB emulsifier
✳W/O emulsion: use low HLB emulsifier
✳You can also use a co-emulsifier
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LOTION MAKING TOOLS
✳Scale
✳Heat
✳Emulsifier
✳Agitation or Mixer(Rotor/Stator), anchor impeller
✳At least two Stainless Steel Pots
✳Thermometer
✳pH Reader (Litmus paper)
✳Buffers: Acid or Alkaline
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OTHER COMPONENTS
✳Buffers: Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution
✳Chelating Agents (Sodium Phytate, EDTA)
✳Solubulizers (Polysorbate 20,Peg40 Hydrogenated Castor oil)
✳Emulsion Stability-resist change in its properties over time
✳Shelf life Prediction – Thermal & Freeze methods
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PRESERVATIVES
✳Preservatives are needed to ensure that your cream does not go bad.
✳Bacteria grows in the presence of water and food.
✳Preservative will make your cream to last more than one week to years and not grow mold or yeast which can cause cancer.
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MORE ABOUT PRESERVATIVES
Strongly recommend broad spectrum preservatives especially in this tropical environment. These preservatives work against bacteria, yeast and mold
✳Phenoxyethanol
✳Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
✳Methylparaben/Propylparaben (note concerns)
✳Optiphen Plus
✳And others
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LABELS AND INCI
✳Design your label to be attractive.
✳List your ingredients in order of percentages used (high to low)
✳Only list ingredients by INCI :-
✳The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients