soul of dubai

8/9/2019 Soul of Dubai

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SOUL OF DUBAI

Who better to guide visitors to Dubai through the layers of the city than its

residents? While Dubais five-star hotels, shopping centres and beaches tend

to dominate the pages of most guidebooks, visitors who are limited to these

destinations would leave with an unsatisfactory glimpse of the city.

If youre looking to get a sense of what its like to live in Dubai, to visit the citys

distinctive corners and explore its nooks and crannies, this unconventional

guidebook will serve as your perfect companion. In its pages you will find

the reflections and recommendations of Emiratis and long-time residents

of the city, who will introduce you to its cultural identity, its distinguishing

characteristics, and its soul.

There is far more to the city and future World Expo 2020 host than record-

breaking skyscrapers and malls. The metropolis, which is home to more than

200 nationalities, has a rich history, celebrated through ongoing heritage

preservation programmes, and it has rapidly evolved into a global arts hub, a

multicultural culinary destination, an eco-friendly landscape, and a trendsetter

in fields as diverse as business, technology and fashion.

Through focus groups and interviews with the people who know Dubai best,

the Dubai Culture and Arts Authority asked the citys residents to tell its story,

highlight its popular facets and share their diverse memories of life within its

friendly borders. What follows is a peoples introduction to Dubai, an invitation

from the citys residents to potential visitors, guiding them towards its culturalenclaves, historical districts, design boutiques, homegrown eateries, parks

and much more. Put on your walking shoes, grab a bottle of water and follow

this alternative trail through Dubai, thoughtfully laid out by a collective of

people who happily call it home.

First Edition 2014

SOUL OF DUBAI


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GET THE MOST FROM YOUR GUIDE

For convenience we have split Dubai into geographical zones A-F. Some overlapand there is no particular order in which you should visit them. Oldest Dubai

can be found around the Creek in Zones D and E. The desert is in Zone F and

Zone C encompasses both the traditional and modern trading areas of Dubai.

Zone A with the Marina and the Palm show what Dubai is capable of in terms

of restructuring the desert whilst Zone B is a gentle mix of more traditional

residential, open beaches and parks. Each zone has its own personality and

characteristics and we have selected, on the advice of its residents, the very

best of what we believe Dubai has to offer. We do not cover everything, but

we hope that by giving you a taste of each zone we encourage you to explore

further.

Each zone is split into easy-to-use sections Intro & Map; Q&A with Cultural

Expert; Culture, Heritage and Places of Note; Art & Design; Food & Drink; Not

To Be Missed. All quotes included in the book come from residents of Dubai

who know the city inside out. Q&As are with those who have made their markin Dubai from a cultural or arts perspective They know Dubai inside out and


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FOREWORD

This guide has come into fruition to show you a more personal side of Dubai.I am very happy that people from over 200 different nationalities, that live

and work in Dubai, feel as connected to the city and its roots as I do. We have

tapped into this connectedness to bring to you a guide that will take you on

a journey to where it all began. We hope that through it you will experience

the Dubai that our forefathers built and called home. From the rustic banks

of the Khor to the gleaming infrastructure and skyscrapers, that are a living

manifestation of the dreams, hopes and ambitions of visionary generations;

our fathers, grandfathers and great grandfathers before them.

Within the hustle and bustle of the city lies a layer that is imbued with diverse

cultural nuances, traditions and heritage that we would love for you to see.

Dubais achievements are an inspiration to us all, and we know that those

achievements were possible because of a legacy of foresight and commitment

that our leaders posses. We also know that this legacy has allowed the beautiful

past to pave the way for a wonderful present, and a promise of the future. Thislegacy of love and dedication a leadership has for the people on this land is the

essence that brings us all together, through generations and throughout over

diversity. It is an energy that pulsates through the city and its people, a spirit

that lives and breathes in Dubai. We want you to know it too.

I hope you enjoy this journey of discovery as much as we enjoyed presenting

it to you.

Latifa Bint Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum

Vice Chairman of the Board of Directors

Dubai Culture & Arts Authority


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DUBAI MARINA / PALM JUMEIRAH

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From arty industrial areas to a palm shaped island built out to sea, gentle

residential suburbs to architect-designed living communities, golden

beaches to man-made oases with tropical foliage, this area could not

contain more contrasts if it tried. Some pockets are worth exploring by

foot, the spread of beaches is extensive and art lovers are spoilt for choice.

This zone offers a glimpse into what Dubai was and what it has become.

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1 Umm Suqeim Beach2 Kitesurfing Beach

3 The Courtyard4 The jamjar5 Alserkal Avenue6 Bu Qtair

7 Kaak ya Kaak8 The Farm9 Skyview, Burj Al Arab

1 Gulf Photo Plus Gallery

2 The Courtyard

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This area is appreciated for its architectural

evolution the Marina, the Palm, Burj Al Arab,

and the grittiness of the Al Quoz industrial

district contrasting starkly with the manicured

gated communities of Emirates Living. Walkalong the coastline, enjoying the free beaches.

Umm Suqeim Beach, known also as Sunset

Beach, is great for surfing, whilst Kitesurfing

Beach, also called Soapy Beach by those in the

know due to its soapy football courts, is always

a vision of flapping surf kites, particularly on

weekends. Alternatively, if you cant resist its

allure, gawp briefly at the anamoly that is a ski

resort within a desert. It is these marvels that

represent Dubais astonishing capabilities.

Dubai can only be described as a city that is,

as Sukaiyna Gokal, Founder of Garden of Ayden,

puts it, ever changing, ever-evolving, never

stopping, never standing still. It brims with

ambition and has taken risks where others havestood and watched.

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CULTURE, HERITAGE & PLACES OF NOTE

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2 The Farm


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ART & DESIGN

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Art-lovers will be spoilt for choice here,

especially between the months of March and

April. In February of 2014, the Dubai Culture

& Arts Authority announced the inaugural

Dubai Art Season, an annual month-long

celebration of international, regional and local

creativity. The season brings together the

citys major cultural happenings, including

renowned art fair Art Dubai, showcase oflocal talent the SIKKA Art Fair, the Middle

East Film & Comic Con, and the Arts and

Culture Forum. The initiative promotes a local

engagement with these various events through

a variety of interactive public projects. For an

altogether different experience at any time

of year we suggest you make a visit to the no-

frills Al Quoz Industrial Area, which is fast

developing into Dubais alternative edgy artsdistrict. There you will find art galleries housed

in concrete industrial spaces, retail outlets

revealing unexpected treasures, experiential

art and design and healthy eateries springing

up amongst the warehouses. Theres even a

weekly organic farmers market for Dubais

trendy gastronomes. Al Quoz is the antithesis of

the chic glossiness often associated with Dubai.

And, with a nod to New Yorks Meatpacking

District, the newly beating pulse of Dubais art

scene has to be Alserkal Avenue.

Less an avenue, in the true sense of the word,

than a gated block of industrial warehouses,

Alserkal Avenue lies at the heart of Al

Quoz. A vibrant arts hub, its buildings havebeen converted into galleries, studios and

workspaces. It currently houses 18 such spaces,

but is on track to double in size over the next

year or so. A live music and entertainment

venue, the Fridge, currently completes the mix.

Slightly off the beaten track in TECOM, a few

minutes from the Internet City metro station, is

the lesser known Dubai Moving Image Museum,

the Middle Easts only such institution and oneof the worlds few. Dedicated to documenting

the history of the moving image, it houses the

private collection of businessman and arts

patron Akram Miknas, which includes a variety

of quirky items, from peep boxes to magic

lanterns dating as far back as the 18th Century.

Dubai in March hosts globally renowned art fair

Art Dubai at the Madinat Jumeirah

1-2 Work space and materials

at The Jam Jar in Al Qouz


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FOOD & DRINK

A stones throw from what has been described

as the worlds most luxurious hotel - Burj Al

Arab - is one of Dubais most modest eateries,

Bu Qtair. Located in a Portakabin, it would be

hard to imagine more of a contrast, but when

it comes to the freshest local fish, this is a

consistent favourite. Choose from the catch of

the day, watch it being grilled and hunker down

with everyone else around a communal tableby the beach. If youre after something a little

more substantial, go for the ultimate Lebanese

sandwich at Kaak ya Kaak. Kaak is Arabic for

cake or, in this case, a savoury bread topped

with sesame seeds; comfort food at its best. For

an altogether more surreal experience, drive

through the desert into an area of landscaped

lakes, waterways and botanical gardens on a

road trip out to The Farm. For sheer novelty

value, this is an enjoyable way to see a little bit

more of Dubai and its surroundings, and to eat

some delicious food too. There is probably no

better reflection of the culinary diversity the city

houses than the Dubai Food Festival, a series of

delectable events and exhibitions inauguratedin 2014. The nearly month long celebration

involves such favourites as Taste of Dubai in

Dubai Media City three days of mouthwatering

offerings from all over the globe prepared by

some of the citys most beloved chefs.

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JUMEIRAH BEACH / BUSINESS BAY / DOWNTOWN DUBAI

BURJ KHALIFA / NAD AL SHEBA / MEYDAN

The term New Dubai resonates in this zone. Its home to the worlds

largest shopping mall and tallest building as well as dancing fountains and

the chic residential area of Downtown. It also houses a charming Old

Town composed of structures inspired by traditional Gulf architecture.

Despite all of the areas recent developments, scrape the surface and you

will find fascinating pockets of history and heritage. That is one of the

joys of Dubai, where the modern and traditional exist in perfect harmony.

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1 The Chalet

2 Al Koufa3 Tashkeel Arts Centre4 Bikers Caf5 Mamzar Beach

6 Naif Souk7 Majlis Ghorfatt Umm Al Sheif8 Jumeirah Archaeological Site9 Safa Park

10 The Archive11 The Ara Gallery12 Al Ijaza Cafeteria13 Al Reef Lebanese Bakery

14 Reem Al Bawadi15 Sa mad Al Iraqi16 Circle Caf at Al Murooj Rotana17 Caf Sushi at the Fairmont

18 Mama Tani Caf

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Described variously as a city foraged from

tradition and culture, and a city that stands

for the future, but is trying to hold onto its

roots, Zone B offers the two sides of this

coin. Jumeirah, to the northwest, is the oldestexpatriate residential area in Dubai and is

therefore well established. It has developed

around several historical gems, one of which

is Majlis Ghorfatt Umm Al Sheif which was

built in 1955 as the summer residence of the

late Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al Maktoum,

who ruled the city from 1958 to 1990 and is

considered the father of Dubai. Cooled by the

sea breeze, this building is comfortable even

during the height of summer without modern-

day air conditioning.

Jumeirah Archaeological Site is one of the

most important sites in the UAE, dating back

to 6AD. Although there is very little to see

now, it is of note because it was once a caravanstation along a trade route linking Iraq to

northern Oman. Artefacts excavated here are

displayed at Dubai Museum and Heritage

Village. Its also definitely worth indulging in

a few happy hours of leisure time by visiting

Safa Park, one of Dubais oldest parks andan oasis of serenity, despite being flanked

by Sheikh Zayed and Al Wasl Roads. Long-

time residents will tell you that park culture

was really big in the 1980s and that families

would spend entire days enjoying picnics, even

during the summer. They remember some

of the trees from their childhood. With 64

acres of beautiful landscaped gardens, it has

something for everyone - walkways, play areas,

a small fairground, cafs, a maze, a mini train, a

lake with boats, bikes for hire, a running track,

sports courts, and barbecue areas. On the first

Saturday of every month, the park hosts a

flea market where people can sell and buy a

range of secondhand items, from householdappliances, to furniture, antiques, clothes and

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2 Majlis Ghorfatt Umm Al Sheif

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more. In 2013, a Friday organic market was

also launched, offering health concious foodies

everything from fresh produce to homemade

preserves, organic coffee and sweets. Other

popular markets in Dubai include the Farmers

Market on The Terrace, held at Jumeirah

Emirates Towers every Friday during winter

season, and ARTE, a bi-monthly arts and crafts

market that takes place in Festival City and

Times Square Centre.

A reflection of Dubais innovative nature, Burj

Khalifa is an awe-inspiring architectural gem.

Sheikh Zayed Road, which cuts Dubai in half,

was originally a two-lane road traversing the

desert. If you examine the original plans youll

see that there was a large gap left between the

buildings and the road. The buildings were

built far back leaving space for expansion.

Even in the 1980s, there was always the vision

to widen it to three lanes and then six and tohave space for the Metro.

Known as the largest mall in the world, the

site where The Dubai Mall stands today was

once known as Defence Roundabout due to

the nearby Dubai Army Barracks. It presents

a very different picture now. Before you head

there, exit Sheikh Zayed Road onto Meydan

Road (Meydan is home to Dubais horse racing)

and you will come to Nad Al Sheba. Youll feel

like youve entered another more gently paced

universe. A new cycle track has now replaced

the famous camel racetrack. I miss it being here.

The practise pens were on one side of the road,

the racetrack on the other. When it was time

for the camels training, youd have to wait 20

minutes or so for them to cross the road. I used

to notice their blankets they were absolutely

beautiful with different patterns, says Jill

Hoyle, manager of Tashkeel Art Centre. Racing

season now takes place October to March at the

new Al Marmoom Camel Racetrack, further outof Dubai.

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There are some incredible new art centres

springing up in Dubai that typify a more holistic

approach to culture and the arts in general,

clearly responding to a need to make them

more accessible to everyone. Safa Park has

seen the very recent addition of The Archive

a contemporary library focusing on Middle

Eastern and North African art, culture, design

and literature. More than that it offers an

exciting, varied programme including indoor

and outdoor activities to promote art, culture

and sport. A modern caf offering delicious

contemporary dishes, a full espresso bar and a

workspace with free wifi have made this venue

extremely popular with Dubais families and

creatives alike.

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ART & DESIGN

Tashkeel even has an outdoor skate park where

you can practice your tricks

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2 Gallery in Tashkeels Art Centre

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Tired of the city? Take a drive to Nad Al Sheba

where Tashkeel Arts Centre will surprise you

with its laid back art-school vibe. Boasting

an extensive studio space which is home to

a stream of visiting artists from the UAE and

abroad, the centre hosts regular exhibitions

and a programme of workshops for artists of

all genres. Theres even an outdoor skate park

where you can practise your tricks.

This zone is set apart by its wide range of

unique shopping outlets. The boutique

Bambah, for example, is dedicated to all things

vintage, and despite being associated with

international chains, outlets like Sunset Mall

and Dubai Mall actually house a number of local

brands and stores such as Zoo Concept.

Head to Jumeirah to find the independent

boutiques that have been key to the development

of Dubais young fashion scene. S*uce showcases

designs by emerging local creatives and DAS

has a wide range of luxurious abayas. For

unique home ware, O de Rose has an array of

products from across the region and French

owned Comptoir 102, with its carefully selectedcollection of interior decorations and jewellery,

as well as a restaurant promising nutritious but

tasty treats, will not disappoint.

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Al Wasl Road and Jumeirah Beach Road are

home to a multitude of interesting little cafs,

juice bars and restaurants. For a back-to-basics

experience to tantalise the tastebuds, Al Reef

Lebanese Bakerys freshly baked steaming

cheese bread, crammed with a mouth-watering

vegetable mix of tomatoes, onions and olives is

not to be missed. If youve still got room in your

tummy, stock up on the Arabic style doughnuts

and sticky sweets for a naughty but very nice

dessert.

Al Ijaza Cafeteria is a bit of an institution

among Dubais 80s youth, some of whom

did own up to skipping school to go and eat

shawarma there (names omitted to protect

the guilty). It had its 15 minutes of fame when

the hit movie City of Life came out in 2009.

One of the main characters stops by and orders

himself a juice. Its still extremely popular today.

Another similarly popular restaurant is the very

lively Reem Al Bawadi, always packed with

a young Dubai crowd. The food is tasty, withgenerous portions. If fish is your thing, Masgouf

Al Iraqi will definitely get your tastebuds going.

Complementary starters precede a wide array

of succulent grilled fish dishes. An insider tip

at Masgouf Al Iraqi is to call ahead by a few

hours and ask the chef to prepare Mazgouf for

you, a traditional Iraqi smoked fish dish. For

traditional Emirati offerings try Mama Tani,

where the menu is almost completely dedicated

to khameer, a signature local sweet bread.

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FOOD & DRINK

An insider tip at Samad Al Iraqi is to call ahead by a few hours and ask

the chef to prepare Mazgouf, a traditional smoked fish dish

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DIRECTORY

Majlis GhorfattUmm Al Sheif

17th Street/Jumeirah Beach

Road

JumeirahArchaeological

Sitebetween Jumeirah BeachRoad and Al Wasl Road,

Jumeirah 2

Safa Parkbetween Al Wasl Road

and Sheikh Zayed Road,Jumeirah 3

The Archive

Safa Park, Gate 5, open daily8am-8pm

Al MarmoomCamel Racetrack

Dubai-Al Ain E66 Road, Exit37. Free admission

971 4 832 6526

Tashkeel Arts Centrewww.tashkeel.org Nad Al

Sheba 1, near Nad Al Shebapolice station. Open Sat-Thu

10am-10pm

Al Ijaza Cafeteriawww.alijaza.com Jumeirah

Beach Road, Jumeirah 2,open daily 9am-3am

Al Reef Lebanese BakeryAl Wasl Road, Jumeirah 3,

971 4 394 5200, open daily 24hours

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JUMEIRAH CENTRE / SATWA / TRADE CENTRE/

DIFC / SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD / KARAMA / RAS AL KHOR

A fascinating group of areas, Zone C incorporates Old and New Dubai, city

and natural wetlands. Satwa and Karama are predominantly populated by

Dubais Asian community and offer small bustling streets crammed with

open-fronted shops. In direct contrast, Dubai International Financial

Centre (DIFC) behind the iconic Emirates Towers is impressive in its vast

proportions and world class architecture. For a refreshing fix of nature, take

a drive down to Ras Al Khor wildlife sanctuary and watch flamingos have

their breakfast. The evolution of Dubai and its many variances in character

are exemplified perfectly in this small geographical spread.

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1 Sammach, Lebanese seafood2 Flooka

3 The Index Tower4 Parmar Tailors5 Meena Bazaar6 Deira Souk

7 Ravi Pakistani Restaurant8 Al Damyati9 Abu Al Abbas Restaurant

10 Calicut Paragon11 Special Ostadi12 Wild Peeta - Shawarma Kitchen13 Saravana Bhavan14 Spring Bamboo

15 Jumeir ah Public Beach16 The Music Room17 City Land18 Al Fida

19 Bookworld, Hudaiba Street20 Iranian Hospital21 Jumeirah Mosque22 SMCCU

23 Union House & The Flagpole24 Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary25 Art Nights @ Gate Village

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For a slice of real life, head to Satwa, one

of Dubais oldest neighbourhoods, oozing

with personality. The area is celebrated and

criticised in equal measures. Al Satwa Road,

where it all starts, is a green, leafy residential

avenue that morphs into a busy, bustling souk.

Carpenters workshops sit adjacent to car

mechanics, electrical stores neighbour beauty

salons and florist shops and car accessories

are sold next door to the butchers shop with

a carcass hanging in the window. Narrow,

winding streets are crowded with Dubais Asian

community and well-dressed women visitingthe tailors and fabric shops. Hole-in-the-wall

cafs offer surprisingly good food, and the

charm of this district more than makes up for

its raggle-taggle appearance. Wander down 2nd

December Street which used to be nicknamed

Street of Love during the 1980s. Deepaks and

Regal Traders are both safe bets for fabric in

Hudaiba Street also known as Plant Street

because of the extensive range of plant shops.

Turn your fabric into the outfit of your choice

at City Land next door to Regal. Al Fida Trading

is an Aladdins store for every knick-knack

imaginable. For an affordable book try second

hand bookshop Book World. Satwas Post Office

is one of the original government buildings

and if architecture interests you, make a small

detour past the Iranian Hospital, built in the

1970s and notable for its striking blue tiling. You

should have worked up an appetite by now. No

trip to Satwa is complete without a visit to the

legendary Ravi, a Pakistani restaurant serving

incredibly cheap and tasty traditional dishes.

Jumeirah Mosque dominates the square at the

top of Jumeirah Beach Road and is a beautiful

piece of architecture as well being the only

mosque in Dubai that non-Muslims are allowed

to enter and tour. Built in the medieval Fatimid

tradition using modern building materials,

it was completed in 1983 and is particularly

lovely at night when it is illuminated. Tours are

organised by Sheikh Mohammed Centre for

Cultural Understanding (SMCCU).

Visible for miles is the Flagpole also at the

top of Jumeirah Beach Road, upon which the

worlds largest UAE flag, first introduced in 1971,

was raised on National Day in 2001 to mark the30th anniversary of the union of the emirates.

At the base of the flagpole stands Union House,

built in 1965 and of great historical relevance.

On Thursday, December 2nd 1971, the rulers

of Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm

al-Quwain, Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah met

inside this house, known then as the guest

palace of the late Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al

Maktoum, former ruler of Dubai, to sign the

declaration that brought into effect a temporary

constitution and established the independent

state of the UAE.

Head out of the city centre for a breath of

fresh air and an altogether different experience.

One does not immediately think of Dubai as

a bird-lovers paradise, however the UAEs

geographical position makes it a major stop-off

on the migration route between Asia and Africa

and the breathtaking Ras Al Khor Wildlife

Sanctuary, with its mangroves, mudflats and

lagoons, is home to herons, eagles, sandpipers

and more than 1000 pink flamingos.

C 1

3

2

4

1 Jumeirah Mosque

2 Book World

3 Jumeirah Public Beach

4 Union House

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Zone C also offers an arts area a world away from

rough-around-the-edges Al Quoz. The Gate

Village at the DIFC is sleek, shiny, sophisticated

and polished and home to some really

interesting galleries. With all of them locatedwithin a few metres of each other, visitors are

spoilt for choice. Art Night @Gate Village is

a lively quarterly event that brings together

the galleries and retailers of Gate Village to

combine elements of art, film, fashion, design

and cuisine through a variety of indoor and

outdoor activities. If youre interested in fine art

photography The Empty Quarter is particularly

interesting. It showcases photos from all around

the world. Everything, from documentary to fine

arts and photojournalism, is covered. Cuadro

Fine Art Gallery is a multi-gallery space in the

DIFC and focuses on four key areas painting,

paper, photography and sculpture. It hosts free

lectures, workshops and panel discussions to

accompany its exhibitions. Directly across from

Cuadro is the Farjam Collection, one of the most

impressive privately owned collections in the

world. Its regular programme of exhibitions,

talks and workshops focus on Islamic, pre-Islamic, contemporary Middle Eastern and

international art. At The Opera Gallery next

door to the Farjam Collection you will not only

find Picassos, Buffets and Dalis in the Black

Room downstairs, but also new artistic talent

from around the world.

For a slightly more modest art experience,

if youre on Jumeirah Beach Road near the

Mosque head across the road to ProArt Gallery,

where youll find an alternative range of works

from street art masters such as Banksy and Mr

Brainwash, plus lithographs from more than 50

artists from 15 countries.

C

ART & DESIGN

1

2

1 The Empty Quarter

2 Cuadro Fine Art Gallery


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The problem isnt finding places to suggest, but

rather figuring out what to leave out. There is no

shortage of authentic, fresh, cheap restaurants

fizzing with atmosphere in this area. As previously

mentioned a trip to Satwa has to include a bite at

Ravi. One of Dubais best Lebanese cafs Al Mallah is

not only popular for its great Middle Eastern food at

budget prices, but because of its location sit outsideon the pavement in 2nd December Street and take in

the action as you stave off your hunger with mixed

grills, washed down with refreshing fresh juices. For

those tired of the same old shawarma, Wild Peeta

is definitely worth a try. Founded by two Emirati

brothers who wanted to put a gourmet spin on a

regional classic, the local eaterie takes an all-natural

all fresh approach to its creative wraps. If you fancy

some beetroot ketchup or curry with your shawarma,

pay these brothers a visit.

C

FOOD & DRINK

No trip to Satwa in complete without a visit to the legendary

Ravis, a Pakistani restaurant serving incredibly tasty dishes.

1

1 Inside Wild Peeta

!"#$%5


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Jumeirah MosqueJumeirah Beach Road/17B

Street Interchange, Jumeirah 1

SMCCUwww.cultures.ae

Union House& The Flagpole

Jumeirah Beach Road/Diyafah Street Interchange

Ras Al KhorWildlife Sanctuary

www.wildlife.aeoff Oud Metha Road,

971 4 606 6822

RaviAl Satwa Road, Satwa

971 4 331 5353

Al MallahDiyafah Street, Satwma 971 4

398 4723

Wild Peetawww.wildpeeta.com DubaiWorld Trade Centre Plaza

Al DamyatiKuwait Street Next to Lulu

Supermarket, Karama, 971 4396 5280

Abu Al Abbas RestaurantAl Shumookh Building, St

6A, Karama, 971 4 396 0665

Art Night @Gate Villagewww.difc.ae/art-nights-at-

gate-village-2013

The Empty Quarterwww.theemptyquarter.com

Gate Village 2, DIFC

Cuadro Fine Art Gallerywww.cuadroart.com Gate

Village 10, DIFC

Farjam Collection

www.farjamcollection.orgGate Village 4, DIFC

Opera Gallerywww.operagallery.com Gate

Village 3, DIFC

ProArt Gallerywww.proartuae.com

Palm Strip MallJumeirah

C

DIRECTORY

City LandHudaiba Street/Plant Street,

Satwa, next door Regal

Al Fida TradingAl Satwa Road, next to Al

Satwa Mosque,971 04 344 4008

BookworldHudaiba Street, Satwa, 971 4

349 1914

Satwa Post OfficeAl Satwa Road

Iranian HospitalAl Wasl Road/Hudaiba

Street Interchange

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KHOR DUBAI (DUBAI CREEK) / DEIRA / BUR DUBAI / MIRDIF

The oldest part of Dubai, and very much the heart and soul of the city, both

sides of the Creek reveal Dubais true cultural identity. Trade started here,

where merchants settled. Visit Deira, the Creek and Bur Dubai and you will

get a taste of Emirati life as it was long before the UAE was formed or Dubai

became the city it now is. Explore winding, shady streets, haggle in small

shops, enjoy the banter in the souks, and cross the water on an abra. Be

sure to stop for a bite to eat and a much needed drink; you have a plethora

of restaurants and cafs to choose from, embracing cuisine from all over

the Middle East, Africa and Asia. Dont hurry. Watch the world go by and

marvel at what Dubai has achieved in such a short space of time.

SHEIKH

RA

SHID

RD

AL BADAA

AL SATWA

ZAABEEL 1

ZAABEEL

PARK

ZAABEEL 2

ALKARA

MA

ALMANKHOOL

ALJAFILIYA

CORNICHEDEIRA

BUR DUBAI

OUD

METHA

GARHOUD

DUBAI

INTERNATIONAL

AIRPORT

PORTRASHID

JUMEIRAHRD

ALMANKHOOLRD

SHEIKHKHALIF

ABINZAYEDS

T

OUDM

ETHA

RD

2NDZAABEELRD

ALKHALEEJRD

BANIYASRDSHEIKH ZAYEDRD

DUBAI-SHARJAHRD

NAIF

MUTEENA

PORT

SAEED

AL MURAQQABAT

AL RIGGA

DUBAI

CREEK

GOLF

CLUB

DUBAIC

REEK

2

14

13

11

1

2

9

4 5

7

6

8

8

12

MUSHRIF

PARK

ALKHAWANEEJR

D

10 15

MIRDIF

MOHA

MMAD

BINZAYE

DRD

16

1 Al Ahmadiya School& Heritage House

2 Dhow Wharfage3 Spice Souk4 Gold Souk5 Covered Souk

6 Fish Market7 Womens Museum8 Abra Stations along the wharf9 Electronics Market

10 Mushrif Park11 Al Bayt Al Baghdadi Restaurant12 Jimma Caf

13 Karachi Darbar14 Habiba Al Nabulsi15 Raslaan

1

3

2 4

1 Al Ahmadiya School

2 Dubai Creek

3 Spice Souk

4 Dubai Creek


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Zone D is the heart of old Dubai and flowing

through it is The Creek or Al Khor, unanimously

described, by all we have interviewed, as the

life vein of Dubai. Were a city of merchants,

traders, pearl divers. The harbour of Dubai has

associations with Iran and the subcontinent.

The Creek has been tax-free since the time of

Sheikh Maktoum Bin Hasher Al Maktoum, ruler

of Dubai from 1894 to 1906. It was the creek

that started everything off, not oil. Oil expanded

things more rapidly but the Creek started it. The

idea for dredging the Creek was introduced in

1955 by Sheikh Saeed Bin Maktoum Al Maktoum

who ruled Dubai from 1912 until 1958 sothat larger ships could come in and trade could

develop. But before it was first dredged in 1961,

when it was low tide, you could walk down to

Al Ahmadiya school in Deira. If you look at the

architectural style of the buildings, you can

see how the Creek grew organically. This is

where Dubai started. says Yousuf Al Hashimi,

Entrepreneur & Managing Partner, Ahdaaf

Sports Club.

Indeed, the Creek is the pulse of Dubai. It

represents trade, the flow of people in and out,

the hustle and bustle of life from a bygone age.

There is nowhere else in Dubai where you will

experience such an atmosphere, this step back

into the past, the opportunity to truly understandDubais soul.

A little history lesson from Al Shindagha:

old Dubai was divided into three main areas:

Shindagha, Bur Dubai, and Deira. Dubai Creek is

the demarcation line separating Bur Dubai from

Deira. Shindagha, on the western bank of the

Creek, is separated from Deira by a sand stretch

called Ghubaiba. It is located at the southern

end of the Creek overlooking its entrance -

historically the citys maritime gateway to the

world.

The area started to evolve around 1862 and

quickly acquired historical significance during

the late 19th Century when the citys population

started to increase. At that time urban planning

and constructing new residential areas became

a necessity. Moreover, Dubais ruling family

and most of the Bani Yas tribe used to reside

in Shindagha after H.H. Sheikh Maktoum Bin

Hasher relocated there at the end of the 19th

century.

In recent years the area has been the focus of

a multi-phase renovation project, with manyof the significant historical buildings being

restored to their former glory. The first school

in the city Al Ahmadiya School was established

in 1912 and is next door to Heritage House,

built in 1890. Completed in 1994, the rooms are

traditionally furnished and offer a vital window

into the past.

Wander down the Creek on the Deira side and

marvel at the blue wooden dhows, loaded with

all manner of cargo en route to and from other

countries. The docks are piled high with their

shipments. There are few areas in Dubai that

evoke such a sense of romance and adventure

on the high seas as the dhow wharf, and a trip

here is a necessity if you want to obtain a senseof Dubais origins. Meandering away from the

Creek, youll come upon the small winding

streets of the old Souk, lined with open and

closed-roof stores.

The Fish Market is a vision of baskets

overflowing with the freshest seafood. In the

height of summer its best to go early in the day.

The Spice Souk sells an array of fragrances and

spices from frankincense to the many herbs

D


3 4

2

1

1 Dubai Creek

2 Heri tage House

3 The Fish Market

4 Old Dubai

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used in Arabic and South Asian food. Textiles,

incense, rugs and artefacts can be found in

abundance here and the only way to shop is tohaggle over the prices. Since the 1940s, when

traders and entrepreneurs from India and Iran

pitched their stalls in this area, the Gold Souk

has been famed the world over. More than 300

retailers trade here and window upon window

is crammed with bracelets, necklaces, rings,

diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and

more; a spectacular sight at night when the

windows are illuminated.

A new addition to the Gold Souk is the Womens

Museum. Situated in a beautifully restored old

house, this is a heritage and educational centre

that portrays the role of the women of Dubai who

have significantly contributed to the building of

the nation. Do not be put off by the name, this

important museum will fascinate visitors of both

genders with an interest in social history and the

evolution of the city.

Whilst we have not recommended hotels in

this guide, we cannot ignore the newly opened

Al Ahmadiya Heritage Guest House in the

heart of Al-Ras Heritage area. It is adjacent

to Al Ahmadiya School, Islamic Museum and

Heritage House and a stones throw away fromthe Spice and Gold Souks. An impressively

restored traditional mansion, with five spacious

bedrooms overlooking a tranquil, shaded

courtyard and dining area, this boutique

guesthouse offers a taste of hidden Dubai and

the opportunity to step off the beaten track and

experience the richness of Arab hospitality.

Once you have had your fill of Deira, catch

an Abra from a station across the Creek to Bur

Dubai. Literally translated as Mainland Dubai,

a reference to the traditional separation of theBur Dubai area from Deira by the Dubai Creek,

Bur Dubai originally consisted of all districts

between the western bank of the Creek and

Jumeirah.

The Electronics Market hasnt changed since

it was first established nor has its signage, and

if you have the opportunity to visit the area at

night, note the neon boards a throwback to

the neon culture of the 1980s. The pace of life

in Bur Dubai is seemingly unaffected by the

rapid transformations that have taken place

elsewhere in the city.

Bur Dubai contains the beautiful Al Fahidi

Cultural District, which is written about in

detail in the following chapter.

For a day out of town, head to Mushrif Park,

considered by some to be Dubais best park. Not

only is it the citys largest park at 500 hectares,

but also the oldest. It truly is a desert park, with

long sand plains and desert flora and fauna.

Barbecue areas and 1950s style swimming

pools give it an old world charm. The road

that runs between Nadd Al Hamar Road and Al

Khawaneej Road behind Mushrif Park leadingtowards Academic City, is a fantastic location

where Emiratis pitch their impromptu camps

from around November to March. On Thursday

and Friday nights the air is thick with the smell

of barbecues and sand generated by racing quad

bikes. We always take visitors their for a true

taste of Dubai. Jill Hoyle, Manager of Tashkeel

Arts Centre.

D

The Creek reveals Dubais cultural identity. It is where

trade started and where traders settled.

2

1

1 Heritage House

2 The Gold Souk

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This is a zone of great historical significance

and contains some interesting traditional

Emirati architecture Heritage House is a great

example of late 19th century design, whilst Bin

Lootah Mosque in front of Al Ahmadiya School

dates from 1910 and the evolution of the Creek.

Walk through the souks and embrace the chance

to soak up the atmosphere, the fragrances and

the sounds of the oldest trading district in the

emirate whilst experiencing the old world

charm of a Dubai from a former era.

D

ART & DESIGN

At low tide you used to be able to walk across

the Creek to Ahmadiya School

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Authentic Middle Eastern and Asian cooking

abounds in Deira and the Souks. Considered

by some to be the best juice bar in Dubai, Jaffar

Beman Ali Cafeteria in the Spice Souk has been

in existence for decades, and is particularly

famous for its fresh juices - the lime cooler is

excellent and ice creams. Al Bayt Al Baghdadi

Restaurant is a no-frills eatery amongst many

others, but you will find really good Iraqi home-

cooking here. All the regular mezze are on offer,but it is the open-fire grilled dishes that really

make it worth a detour. Portions are generous

and prices are cheap. Full of Ethiopian and

Sudanese customers, Jimma Caf promises

authentic Ethiopian dishes. Ask for advice on

what to eat and enjoy the informal atmosphere

and tasty dishes. For some excellent, very tasty

Pakistani food, Karachi Darbar wont disappoint

especially the chicken or mutton biryani,.

Meanwhile, Habiba Al Nabulsi will impress with

some of the best cheap Arabic food in Dubai. Its

huge trays of piping-hot kunafa - gooey cheese,

honey and pistachio nuts are just whats needed

after a long morning of sightseeing, but more

than this, simple, well cooked traditional disheswill provide you with an excellent introduction

to local cuisine.

D

FOOD & DRINK

3

1 2

1 Al Bayt Al Baghdadi

2 Jaffar Beman Ali Cafeteria

3 Karachi Darbar

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DIRECTORY

Al Ahmadiya School &Heritage House

Al Khor Street/Al AhmadiyaStreet, Deira/Al Ras Area,

Behind Dubai PublicLibraries

971 4 226 0286

Dhow WharfageBaniyas Road, Deira

Souks:SpiceAl Sabkha StreetGoldBetween Deira St

and Old Baladiya St

Covered Bet Al SabkhaRoad and Naif RoadFish MarketnearShindagha Tunnel

Womens Museumwww.womenmuseumuae.

com Gold Souk

Ahmedia Heritage Guest

Houseahmediaguesthouse.comadjacent to Al AhmadiyaSchool, Deira, 971 4 225

0085

Abra Stationsalong the wharf, Deira andBur Dubai sides of Creek

Electronics MarketNr Al Mankhool Road,

Bur Dubai

Mushrif Park

Al Khawaneej Road,Mirdif, 971 4 288 3624

D

Jaffar Beman AliCafeteria

in the Spice Souk

Al Bayt Al BaghdadiRestaurant

Al Muteena Street,near Sheraton Deira,

971 4 273 7064

Jimma CafAl Khaleej Road, Deira,

971 4 271 7610

Karachi DarbarAl Musalla Road, Deira,

971 4 272 3755

Habiba Al NabulsiMuraqqabat Street,

Deira, near Reef Mall971 4 227 7760

Bin Lootah Mosquein front of Alahmadiya

School

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AL SHINDAGHA HISTORICAL NEIGHBOURHOOD /

AL FAHIDI HISTORICAL NEIGHBOURHOOD

A small geographical area, Zone E in Bur Dubai is packed to the gills with

history, art, culture and beauty. Spend a few hours, a day or even consider a

few nights here to soak up Dubais heritage, architecture and hospitality. Al

Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood has been restored to its former splendour;

narrow streets with traditional courtyard houses and wind towers, museums,

art galleries, boutique hotels and delightful restaurants make this district a

restoration success story, whilst in neighbouring streets, souks and museums

only add to the enjoyment of the visit.

PORT

SAEED

DUBAI

CREEK

CORNICHEDEIRA

OUD

METHA

PORTRASHID

NAIF

AL SABKHA

AL JAFILIYA

AL HUDAIBA

MUTEENA

AL RIGGA

ALMINARD

JUMEIRAH RD

KHALIDBINW

ALEEDS

T

DUBAI-SHARJAHRD

BANIYA

SR

D

ALKHALEEJRD

< TO ABU DHABI TO SHARJAH >

ALMANKHOOL RD

ALIBINABI

TALEBST

ALFAHIDIS

T1

14

15

17

16

19

18

6

5

6

7

DUBAI CREEK

AL FAHIDI

HISTORICAL

NEIGHBOURHOOD

2

9

3

10

8

1220

21

13

11

ALMURAQQABAT

1 Arabian Tea House2 Special Kabab3 Al Fahidi Historical

Neighbourhood4 Sheikh Mohammed Cultural

Centre for Understanding5 Al Fahidi Fort, Dubai Museum

6 The Rulers Court

7 Grand Mosque8 Textile Souk9 Souk Al Kabeer

10 Bait Al Wakeel11 Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House12 The Heritage and Diving Villages13 Barjeel Heritage Guest House

14 The Orient Guest15 XVA Hotel16 Majlis Gallery17 XVA Art Gallery

18 Ave Gallery19 Local House20 Kan Zaman21 S pecial Ostadi

1

2

1 Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood

2 XVA Hotel


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There is nothing to stop you from strolling

around the streets of Al Fahidi Historical

Neighbourhood at random, to discover it

for yourself, but we would suggest you drop

into Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural

Understanding (SMCCU) first. Based in

an elegantly restored house, SMCCU is

an organisation that focuses on breaking

down barriers between people of different

nationalities and raising awareness about

Emirati culture and traditions, and Islam.

It organises walking tours and breakfasts,

language classes and cultural programmes

and encourages visitors to ask all sorts ofquestions. So, either take a guided walking

tour, or wander at your leisure around one

of the oldest residential areas in Dubai. The

original Old City Wall, built in 1800 from

gypsum and coral, is still partially intact. Look

up and youll notice that most houses have

wind towers the traditional means of cooling

buildings before the advent of air conditioning.

Many of the houses have been converted into

small, unusual museums. Amongst them are

Calligraphy House, Philately House, the Coins

Museum and The Architectural Heritage

Department as well as a wealth of galleries,

outlined in the following section on Art and

Design.Be sure to find Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest

building in Dubai built around 1787, now

housing Dubai Museum. Pass The Rulers

Court, or Diwan, a handsome cream building

with impressive wind towers and the Grand

Mosque with the citys tallest minaret. You may

also notice the countrys only Hindu Temple,

situated between the Grand Mosque and the

Creek. Enter the Textile Souk to experience a

riot of colour and textures and walk through

into Souk Al Kabeer or Meena Bazaar which

was established in the early 1900s by the citys

Asian immigrants.

Bait Al Wakeel was built in 1935 by the late

Sheikh Rashid and was a shipping office for

Gray Mackenzie & Company, agents for many

of the shipping lines sailing into Dubai. The

first office building in Dubai, it is a fine example

of early 20th century Arabic architecture,

made of mud and coral, with mangrove poles

imported from East Africa to support the roof.

Now a maritime museum, there is also a very

decent restaurant here from which you canlook out over the water and watch the boats

travelling up and down the Creek.

Another structure of great historical interest

is Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House, the

official residence of the grandfather of Dubais

present ruler Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid

Al Maktoum, who ruled between 1912 and 1958.

The building dates from 1896 and today houses

a rare collection of historical photographs,

coins, stamps and documents that record

Dubais history. Two minutes away by foot is

The Heritage and Diving Village a living

village with demonstrations of more than 30

traditional handicrafts and a great place to see

traditional Arabic dances from time to time. Awelcome new boutique guesthouse is Barjeel

Heritage Guest House in Al Ghubaiba. Its

refreshing to find delightful hotels springing

up in areas of great cultural significance and

this zone has more than its fair share with the

Orient Guest House, a traditional two storey

villa restored to its f ormer glory, and also XVA

Hotel, a stylish and peaceful boutique hotel

with an award-winning vegetarian restaurant.

E 1

2 3

1 The Heritage and

Diving Village

2 Inside Sheikh Saeed House

3 Dubai Museum

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There is a feeling of calm and creativity in the

streets of Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood;

it is peaceful yet imbued with a sense of

productivity. Not only are there artisans at work

in small studios, but galleries full of charm and

charisma have also made their homes here.

Majlis Gallery has been here the longest

since the 1970s in fact. Situated in a beautiful

old house, Majlis is a haven for artists and art-

lovers. Traveller-painters works are exhibited

alongside sculptures, artefacts, trinkets and

shabby-chic furniture made of limed mango

wood from India. XVA Gallery, attached to the

hotel, showcases contemporary art in exhibition

rooms around the shaded courtyard caf whilst

Ave Gallery is a new space run by Iranian artist

Fereydoun Ave.

Culture enthusiasts will be happy to hear that

the neighbourhood plays host to the Sikka Art

Fair every year. Established in 2011, the event is

focused on showcasing contemporary artistic

production in the UAE, and includes everything

from film screenings to live music, and artist-ledworkshops and talks.

To celebrate the citys rich history, the Dubai

Culture and Arts Authority organised the first

Dubai heritage and Touristic Season in 2014,

introducing around 50 activities during Eid Al

Adha aimed at highlighting and honouring not

only the countrys past, but the traditions and

customs that continue to play a valuable role in

Emirati society.

E

ART & DESIGN

Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest building in Dubai built around

1787 now houses the Dubai Museum.

1

2

1 Majlis Gallery

2 XVA Cafe


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Part of Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhoods

charm is its delightful courtyard cafs. Arabian

Tea House is idyllic. It has a leafy courtyard,

as well as eclectic jewellery and art for sale,

but the star of the show is most definitely the

food - wonderfully large bowls of delicious

salads and hot bites too, washed down withrefreshing juices. For sheer entertainment

value drop into Local House for camel burgers

and fried camel milk ice-cream, or enjoy more

traditional Emirati dishes. The food is good,

but the location is stunning at Bait Al Wakeel,

built on stilts over the Creek. If youre visiting

Heritage Village, stop at Kan Zaman by the

Creek and enjoy traditional Arabic mezzes and

dishes. There is a great view from the terrace of

the boats and historic Deira and Bur Dubai. For

a restaurant brimming with character, head for

family-run Special Ostadi, with friendly service,

simple but delicious kebabs and fascinating

decor wherever you look especially the bank

notes from around the world displayed underthe glass table tops.

E

FOOD & DRINK

1

1 Bait Al Wakeel

!"#$%E


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DIRECTORY

Al FahidiCultural District

Bur Dubai

Sheikh MohammedCultural Centre forUnderstanding

(SMCCU)www.cultures.ae

Al Fahidi Cultural District

Al Fahidi Fort /DubaiMuseum

www.dubaitourism.aeAl Fahidi Street

The Rulers CourtAl Fahidi Street, Al Souk

Al Kabeer, opposite DubaiMuseum

Grand MosqueAli Bin Abi Talib Street

Textile SoukBur Dubai along the Creek

Bait Al WakeelBy Dubai Creek, between

Bur Dubai Abra Station andOld Souk Abra Station

971 4 353 0530

Sheikh SaeedAlMaktoum House

Al Shindagha HistorialNeighbourhood

The Heritageand Diving Villages

Shindagha Rd/Al KhaleejRoad 971 4 393 7151

Barjeel Heritage GuestHouse

www.barjeelguesthouse.comnr Heritage & Diving

Village, Al Shindagha

Historical Neighbourhood

The Orient Guest Housewww.orientguesthouse.comOpp Al Musalla Post Office,Al Fahidi Street, Bur Dubai

E

Arabian Tea HouseAl Fahidi Street, AlFahidi Historical

Neighbourhood, BurDubai 971 4 353 5071

Local HouseAl Fahidi Street, AlFahidi Historical

Neighbourhood, BurDubai, 971 4 354 0705

Bait Al WakeelAl Fahidi HistoricalNeighbourhood Bur

Dubai, 971 4 353 0530

Kan ZamanAl Shindagha Historical

Neighbourhood NrHeritage Village971 4 393 9913

Special OstadiBehind Mussalla Tower

Bur Dubai 971 4 397 1933

XVA Hotelwww.xvahotel.comclose to Basta Art

Cafe and Local House,Al Fahidi Historical

Neighbourhood,Bur Dubai

Majlis Gallerywww.themajlisgallery.com

Al Musalla Roundabout,Al Fahidi Historical


XVA Art Gallerywww.xvagallery.comnext to Dubai Creek,Al Fahidi Historical


Ave GalleryAl Fahidi Historical

Neighbourhood,Bur Dubai 971 4 353 5383

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GREATER DUBAI & THE DESERT

A trip to Dubai is incomplete witho ut a trip to the desert. There are a coupleof options available hire a four by four and head out by yourself, if you

know what youre doing, or take an organised trip with a tour operator,

but try to find an authentic one. Belly dancing and shisha are not Emirati

culture. Fossil Rock is the UAEs easiest desert route and is only 20 minutes

outside Dubai, but trips to Hatta, Oman, Mussandam, Dibba, Ras Al

Khaimah or Liwa will all satisfy your desire to explore and play in the sand.

2

1 3

1-3 Dub ai Desert


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Special Thanks To

Abdulmonem Bin Eisa AlserkalJill Hoyle

Mouza Al AbbarZayan Ghandour

Mohamed Parham Al AwadhiDr Rafia Obaid Ghubash

Isobel Abulhoul OBE

Hind MezainaMuna HaribNojoud Bastaki

Danielle Simpson

And to the hundreds of invited residentswho contributed to this guide by sharing

their own Dubai.


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#MyDubai

The #MyDubai initiative was created by HH

Sheikh Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid

Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai, with a

request for residents and visitors to join him

in sharing photos, videos and stories on social

media and show their experiences of Dubai.

The intention is to celebrate the everyday lives

of the people and communities of the Emirate

and show the city that is beneath the landmarks,

headlines and superlatives. The images and

stories demonstrate residents and visitors

daily life activities, views and experiences, all of

which make up the rich tapestry of this vibrant

and cosmopolitan city.

The contributions will be shared across social

media platforms to create an e-museum

and in other forms of creative media such as

exhibitions and art installations. Launching the

initiative, His Highness Sheikh Hamdan said:

A citys story is created by its people and its

time to join together and show the world how

2.1 million people can create one remarkable

story: together we will create the worlds first

autobiography of a city.

The hashtag #MyDubai can be used on

Instagram, Twitter and Facebook to share

stories, photos, videos, and experiences in the

city. Collectively the contributions are building

a fascinating portrait of life in the Emirate. The

content will be curated across different multi-

media to inspire art installations, films, books

and other creative projects, which together will

create the autobiography.


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soul of dubai

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