Squeeeeek No More® Hardwood Floor AdaptorThe key to the Squeeeeek No More® screw fastening sys-tem is the specially coated scored screw. The screw has apitch of 8 threads per inch for one inch from the tip, thenthe pitch changes slightly to 9 threads per inch up to thescore. This change in pitch draws the layers of woodtightly together as the screw is driven down.

The Hardwood Floor adapter is made of high strengthfiberglass. When the screw is driven through the adapterthe head hits the top of the fixture causing the screw tosnap at the score. The tooling sets the score 3/8 on an inchbelow the surface. Then just fill the small hole with woodfiller that matches your hardwood.

*If you drive the screw through the fixture and the screwdoes not snap the wood may be softer than the wood weused in developing the screw. The screws will still workalthough we won’t drive them through the center hole, wewill use the jig on the side of the adapter. The directionsare on the bottom of the next page.

In hardwood floors squeaks can happen at the joist andalso between the joists. Generally squeaks in older homeshappen at the joist and newer homes between. *To findthe joist follow the directions below.

In the area of the squeak pre-dill a hole with a 1/8 inchdrill bit. The hole should be 2 inches deep.

Drive the Squeeeeek No Morescrew down through the fixture as far as you can get it to go.

The screw pulls the wood to-gether. Then the head hit thetop of the fixture and snapsthe screw at the score, whichis set 3/8 of an inch below thefloor.

Fill the small hole with woodfiller.

How to Find the Joist

If you have a stud sensor use that to see if you can get anindication of the joist. If that works, pre-drill a hole at thejoist through the hardwood with a 1/8 drill bit. Then drivethe screw through the fixture, having the flat wide baseagainst the floor. The screw will snap, 3/8 inch below thesurface. Then fill with a-matching wood filler.

If the stud sensor doesn’t work, then near the wall on thefloor pre-drill a small hole, 3/32 or smaller, down an inch

and a half. Then taking a paper clip that is straightenedout to 2 inches in length, push that through the hole. If thepaper clip goes down more than 1 ½ inches we havemissed the joist. Move over an inch and do it again untilthe paper clip stops at 1 ½ inches indicating the joist.

The holes that are made are very small and because theyare close to the wall will be very hard to see when con-cealed with filler.

Linoleum FloorsIn most Linoleum floors you can find the floor joist withan electric stud sensor. The indications from the stud sen-sor may be weaker although you should be able to get agood idea where the joists are. I have found that using astrong new battery will make the stud finder have a moreconsistent reading.

In general, the floor joists are 16 inches apart. Your indica-tions from your stud sensor should indicate this. Having aheat vent can help because the vent is in between two joists.

Once you find the joists focus on the spot on the joistwhere the movement and squeaks are coming from. Thendrive the screw through the fixture, having the flat widebase against the floor. The head will hit the top of the fix-ture and snap. Note: don’t pre-drill the spot where youdrive the screw because that will take away some materialthat will expand back over the hole.

Take a hammer and tap the small bump that is left tosmooth out the hole and force the hole to fill over.

Once you find the joists focus onthe spot on the joist where themovement and squeaks are comingfrom. Then drive the screw throughthe fixture, having the flat widebase against the floor.

The head will hit the top of the fix-ture and snap 3/8ths of an inchbelow the linoleum.

Take a hammer and tap the smallbump that is left to smooth out thehole and force the hole to fill over.

How to use the jig on the side of the Squeeeeek No More Hardwood Adapter.

The side jig on the adapter is to be used when the screwsare not snapping when driven though the center of the fix-ture. When this happens the screw is not getting a strongenough bite into the wood to be able to force the screw tosnap at the score automatically. You can decrease the sizeof the bit you use to pre-drill the hole, we started at1/8thso we can try 7/64th and go down until we find the bit thatworks. This will increase the bite into the wood and may

solve the problem. If we still have problems we shoulduse the side jig.

Even though the screw didn’t snap off automatically itdoesn’t mean the screw won’t work. The screw pitchesbeing different still pull the wood down tight when drivendown to the correct depth. The side jig is what we use toset the correct depth.

Pre-drill a small hole in thewood. Start the screw in thehole then take the jig and setit next to the screw.

Drive the screw down untilthe head matches the top ofthe jig. It should fit evenlyinto the top of the jig. If itpushes the jig away it hasbeen driven down to far.

Once the screw aligns withthe jig pull the jig back.

Take the Squeeeeek No Morecarpet adapter and place thegripper portion over thescrew head and rock the fix-ture side to side. This willsnap the screw off at thescore that is set 3/8th of aninch below the surface.Manufactured In The USA By: O'Berry Enterprises, Inc.

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