standard test methods

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Kate Spade & Company Updated: September, 2015

STANDARD TEST METHODS



Kate Spade & Company 2

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FABRICS AND APPAREL STANDARD TEST METHODS ........................ 3

Standard Test Method # 1 - KS&C Torque Test Method ....................................................... 3

Standard Test Method # 2 - Wicking Test Methods ............................................................... 5

Standard Test Method # 3 - Combined Accelerated Colorfastness to Laundering Test ......... 6

Standard Test Method # 4 – High Risk Color Blocked Styles (Knit and Woven) ................. 8

Standard Test Method # 5 – Safety Assessment of Functional Drawstrings ........................ 11

Standard Test Method # 6 – Bar Band Elongation ............................................................... 16

ACCESSORIES STANDARD TEST METHODS ...................................... 18

Standard Test Method # 102 - Cracking Resistance/Flex Test ............................................. 18

Standard Test Method # 104 - Cleanability (Food/Ink) ........................................................ 20

Standard Test Method # 109 - Finish Adhesion ................................................................... 22

Standard Test Method # 113 - PU/PVC Adhesion to Backing ............................................. 23

Standard Test Method # 114 - Cold Crack Resistance of PU/PVC ...................................... 24 Standard Test Method # 116 - Tongue Tear Strength of PU/PVC/Fabric ............................ 25

Standard Test Method # 117 - Blocking of PU/PVC ............................................................ 27

Standard Test Method # 118 - Seam Strength ...................................................................... 28

Standard Test Method # 119 - Environmental Cycling ........................................................ 30

Standard Test Method # 123 - Accelerated Aging (High Humidity).................................... 31

Standard Test Method # 124 - Accelerated Aging (Dry Oven) ............................................ 32

Standard Test Method # 125 - Impact Resistance ................................................................ 33

Standard Test Method # 126 - Tensile Test of Hardware ..................................................... 34

Standard Test Method # 137 - Nitric Acid Test/Lacquer Coating on Brass and Nickel PlatedHardware ............................................................................................................................... 36

Standard Test Method # 154 - Handle Integrity Test ........................................................... 37 Standard Test Method # 158 - Manual Function and Cycling of Hardware ......................... 39

Standard Test Method # 159 - Resistant to Alcohol ............................................................. 40

Standard Test Method # 160 – Tensile Strength of Card Slot .............................................. 41

TRIMS STANDARD TEST METHODS ..................................................... 43

Standard Test Method # 1001 – Button Impact Resistance .................................................. 43

Standard Test Method # 1002 – Quality, Appearance & Durability of Plastic Self-AdhesiveSize Stickers .......................................................................................................................... 45

Standard Test Method # 1003 - Accelerated Aging (High Humidity) for metal trims

(Copper/ Zinc Alloy) used on Leather and Wool ................................................................. 47




FABRICS AND APPAREL STANDARD TEST METHODSIntroduction This section describes the standard test methods used for

apparel.

Standard Test Method # 1 – KS&C Torque Test Method

Purpose: To determine the degree of fabric distortion and seam torque for singleknits made of single yarns.

Description: Fabrics that need to be tested include, all single knit fabrics knitted fromsingle yarns. Procedure is provided below to determine before washfabric distortion and seam torque.

Procedure for Garment: To determine the percent of seam torque after washing the garment, divide the

length of seam displacement at hem or bottom (line “B” of below sketch) bythe length of side seam (measured from where seam twisting started to hemor bottom of the garment (line “A” of below sketch)) and multiply by 100.

For example, if seam displacement at hem is 1” and length of “twisting” seam is20”, the seam torque will be 5% (1”/20” X 100).




Procedure for Fabric: Follow the steps below to perform the torque test for single knits:

1. Prepare a 22” x 22” (56 x 56 cm) sample same as for AATCC 135

(dimensional changes in home laundering). Make sure that samples are notdistorted. Try to cut the sample from the center of the fabric.

2. For ‘before wash torque test’ , perform the following:

Draw a line along a knitted course in a fabric; this is line “a”Draw a line at right angles to line “a”, this is line “b”The intersection of these two lines is point “A”Mark a point “B” on line “b” that is 10 inches from point “A”Draw a line through point “A” following a wale (needle line), this is line “c”Mark a point “C” on line “c” that is 10 inches from point “A” in the same general

direction as point “B”The distance between points “B” and “C” measured in inches x 10 gives thepercentage of distortion or torque in the fabric .

3. For ‘after wash torque test’, wash a fabric sample according to provided careinstruction (if care instruction cannot be provided, method AATCC 135 IIIA(machine wash warm, delicate cycle, tumble dry low) is used) one wash only.Repeat procedure in step 2.

Note: Line “a” and line “c” can be the same as “before wash test”. Line “b” (rightangle to course line) has to be redrawn. In addition, points “B” and “C” have tobe marked again after washing to be 10-inches from point “A”.

4 - Perform the seam torque test: The difference between “before wash” and“after wash” is equivalent to the “seam torque” as would be experienced afterwashing of a garment.




Standard Test Method # 2 - Wicking Test Methods

Purpose: To determine the wicking performance of fabric, the two tests listedbelow should be carried out and results reported.

1. Absorbency Test, AATCC Test Method # 79

Requirement: 1.0 second or less.

2. Wicking Test, “Ciba” Test Method

Procedure: Follow below steps:

Apparatus - Glass Beaker (250 ml capacity), ruler, indelible pen,Stopwatch, Specimen holder, distilled water

Test must be conducted under standard conditions:1 - Specimen Preparation:

Cut a total of four strips from each submitted sample as follows-Cut two strips 15 cm x 2.5 cm with the long dimension being in thewarp (wale) direction.Cut two strips 15 cm x 2.5 cm with long dimension being in the weft(course) direction.

Mark each strip at 0.5 cm from one end of the long edge .

2 - Testing Steps:

Clamp the specimen at unmarked ends so that they hang vertically.Fill the beaker (container) with 100 ml of distilled water.Lower the strips into the beaker to the 0.5 cm mark and start timing.Remove specimen when 10 minutes is up.Measure and record water travel length of the specimen.Average the results of the two tests in each direction.

Report the results for warp and weft direction.

Stop test if there is no water travel in five minutes .

Requirements: 5 cm or more after 10 minutes, Knit.




Standard Test Method # 3 - Combined AcceleratedColorfastness to Laundering Test

Purpose: To provide a rapid method to determine colorfastness to laundering andif bleach care label can be used.

Description: The following procedure is provided for combining the colorfastness towashing and non-chlorine bleach test.

Procedure: Follow below steps to perform the colorfastness accelerated test:

1. Prepare a sample 2” x 6” (5 x 15 cm). Make sure that the sample contains arepresentative area of a full repeat, if multicolored fabric. Otherwise, repeat teston different areas.

2. Execute test AATCC 61 2A, Colorfastness to Laundering.

3. Evaluate for shade and stain.

4. If the sample passes the minimum requirements, cut sample in half. Retainone of the two pieces as control and use the second one for the “Non ChlorineBleach” test.

5. 2.5% of “Clorox 2” solution is prepared by dissolving 2.5 grams of “Clorox 2”in 100 ml. of warm water (40 C).

6. Pour 100 ml. of Clorox 2 solution into a stainless steel beaker.

7. Preheat the solution in water bath to 60 C (140 F). For washable wool/silk,use 40 C (105 F).

8. Soak the test sample in the solution for one minute under agitation.

9. Remove the specimen and pour the used testing solution into a test tube forassessing the color staining of the solution.

10. Rinse the test sample in cold running tap water for about 2 minutes withoccasional stirring and hand squeezing.

11. Dry the test sample at a temperature not exceeding 60 C (140 F).

12. Compare the sample from the “Non-Chlorine Bleach “test with the washedonly sample. There should not be any noticeable difference in shade. The “Non-Chlorine Bleach” tested sample must pass minimum colorfastness of washablefabrics and garments when compared to an unwashed sample:

Color Change: 4.0 minimum




Contrast stripes or trimmings and color blocked garments: Color Change andStaining 4.5 or better.

13. Compare the used testing solution to an unused solution. There should notbe any appreciable staining of the used solution.

If the sample fails the “Non-Chlorine Bleach” test but passes the wash test, then thefabric must be labeled “ Do Not Bleach ”.




Standard Test Method # 4 – High Risk Color Blocked Styles(Knit and Woven)

Purpose: To ensure high risk color-blocked garments with contrast color have the

best possible colorfastness performances.

Description : Color blocking is a design concept that combines at least two differentcolors in the same garment. These colors are generally contrastingcolors with one being of heavy shade and the other a light shade.There should be no color transfer or cross staining from the dark to thelight shade, particularly onto white or off white shades.

Thus, high risk color blocked products require more stringentcolorfastness ratings for the individual colors than normal specificationsof Kate Spade & Company and must be discussed with the fabric

supplier before a Purchase Order is written for the program. Thesupplier must choose dyes (and processing steps) that meet thestringent requirements. The dyes will generally be more expensivethan normal dye cost.

Apparatus :Color Standard Depths: Matt B.S.1006 and I.S.O. 105 (see below pictures):




Color Shade Classification: 1) Color Shade Classification based on Color Depth index

Color Shade Classification Color Depth

Light < or = 1/12

Medium in range of >1/3 and <1/6

Dark > or = 1/1

Guideline for high risk color blocked styles classification: High risk color-blocked products include: color blocked garments; garments withcontrast trims, patchworks, and appliqué; contrast-striped fabrics (eg. rugby); prints in

contrast color; and other items with contrast multi-color components (see belowexamples of High risk color-blocked products) except meeting one of below threeconditions:

1) All found different color shades are under the same color hue based on the ColorStandard Depths A – R, see below Figure 1 as example;

Figure 1:




2) The different color shades with all over print design pattern AND the shortestdistance (either length or width in irregular shape) is less than 0.3 cm, see belowproducts as example:

Examples of high risk color-blocked products:




Standard Test Method # 5 – Safety Assessment ofFunctional Drawstrings

Purpose: To standardize the measurement of the length of Functional Drawstringused on KS&C children’s garment.

Definitions : Functional Drawstring - A cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material with or without embellishment, such as a toggle, pom-pom, feather, orbead which passes through a channel, loop(s) or eyelet(s) or similar, to adjust thesize of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.

Hip Width Measurement - The hip width is to be measured 5” below the top edgeusing the 3-points of measurements as shown below:

Apparatus - Steel ruler




Test Procedures

Test must be conducted under standard conditions:

1.1. Allowance of Functional DrawstringAccording to the KS&C Children’s Apparel Safety Testing Protocol –Functional Drawstring Performance Requirements, visual assessments arerequired to identify the allowance of Drawstring and related constructionrequirements (Tacked at midpoint, no knots, etc) prior to the DrawstringMeasurement.

If the Functional Drawstring is “Not Allowed” to be used and the relatedconstructive requirements are not met, report the failure directly.

If the presence of Functional Drawstring is allowed, the length of Drawstring is

measured following below step 1.2.

1.2. Functional Drawstring Measurement

Measure the Functional Drawstring from where the strings extend out of thegarment when it is expanded to its fullest width.

To ensure the garment is expanded to its fullest width, follow below steps:

A. For the non-stretchable garment and Drawstring channel withoutelastic band and/or elasticity

i. The garment is held by lab technician in a direction perpendicular tothe Drawstring channel; the lab technician stretches the Drawstringchannel and ensures it is expended to its fullest width:




ii. The garment is laid flat on the bench and ensure no crinkles werefound along the Drawstring channel:

iii. The length is measured from the point where the drawstring exitsthe channel to the tip of string.




B. For the stretchable garments and Drawstring channel with elasticband and/or elasticity

i. The garment is laid flat on the bench. Measure the hip width following Hip

Width measurement and mark down the hip width:

ii. The first lab technician stretches the Drawstring channel (waistband) to thehip width (for woven) or hip width +1” (for knit); During the stretching,

the exposed portion of the drawstring will retreat back into the Drawstring

Channel by hand:

Remark: this photo is used for showing the measurement method only. Referring toKS&C Children’s Apparel Safety Testing Protocol for the requirement is a must.




iii. While the garment is held under the tension at the specified width, a second

lab technician, with a steel ruler, measures the length of the drawstring’sexposed portion. The length is measured from the point where the

drawstring exits the channel to the tip of string:

1.3. Report

Report the findings including the type of Drawstring, position of Drawstring found onthe garment, length of drawstring in inches and conclusion.

Requirements: refer to KS&C Children Product Safety Testing Protocol

(https://portal.katespadeconnect.com/documents/10113/1288849/Child+Product+Safety)

Remark: this photo is used for showing the measurement method only. Referring toKS&C Children’s Apparel Safety Testing Protocol for the requirement is a must.




Standard Test Method # 6 – Bar Band ElongationPurpose: To determine the force (lbs) exerted on the bottom band of a bra at the

minimum and maximum band settings; measured at 5” below the labeledsize.

Procedure: Follow below steps:

Apparatus – Instron CRE tensile tester or equivalent with a low range load cell(approx. 9kg or 20lb)

Samples - 3 Bras

Test must be conducted under standard conditions:1. Machine Setting:

- Chart Speed: 10 inches/minute

- Cross Head Speed: 20 inches/minute- Delta shaped hooks: 3 inch

2. Set the Gauge length based on the bra size as follows:

Size (inches)Gauge Length

(circumference in inches*)32 2034 2236 2438 2640 28

*Circumference in inches = measured around the upper and the lower hooks withflexible measuring tape

3. Cycling:- Close the hook & eye fastening; If the bra has a multiple hook & eye

fastening, adjust the bra to the largest size adjustment.

- Place the center front of the bra (i.e. between the cups) on the upper hookand zero out the weight of the bra on the Instron. Place the back of the braband (at point of closure if a back closure bra) over the lower hook.

- Elongate the bra to a distance 5” less than the labeled bra size (cross headtravel distance of 3.5” from the established Gauge length) and return to zeroextension.

- Repeat a second cycle on the bra and record the load in pounds. Repeatthis test on the two remaining bras and average the test results.

- Adjust the same 3 bras to the smallest size adjustment. Repeat theprocess in point 3, and average the test results.




4. If the bra being tested is not adjustable, follow the same test procedure as outlinedin point 3 and note this when reporting test results.

Report: Report load in pounds to extend the bottom band of a bra to 5” below the

labeled bra size (at the smallest and largest setting if the bra has a multiple hook &eye fastening) by the outlined test method. Provide the results to a single load valueresults if the bra band is not adjustable.

Remarks: Load value in pounds of the bottom band of a bra at an elongation 5” lessthan the labeled bra size (cross head travel distance of 3.5” from the establishedgauge length).




ACCESSORIES STANDARD TEST METHODS Introduction This section describes the standard test methods used for

accessories.

Standard Test Method # 102 - Cracking Resistance/Flex Test

Purpose andScope

To evaluate flexibility and adhesion of a finish on leather and PVCmaterials to be used for handbags, small leather goods andbelts.

Apparatus Bally Flexometer: this machine consists of a stationary clamp(lower) and a rotating clamp (upper) that move at 100 cyclesper minute.

Procedure Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard TestMethod #102:

Step Action

1 Cut a sample measuring 1 ½” x 2 ¾”2 Mount sample into the upper clamp on the Bally Flexometer

with one end measuring 1 ½” folded in half so that the frontsides are together.

3 Mount sample into the lower clamp on the Bally Flexometerwith the other end measuring 1 ½” folded in half so that theback sides are together.

4 Begin flexing the sample to the standard number of flexes(20,000 flexes for leather and 50,000 flexes for PVC).

5 Check the state of the sample every hour and stop prior tocompletion if there is a change in the appearance of thesample.

Evaluation A. Evaluate the sample after the standard number of flexes or at the

point of failure under a 4 X illuminated magnifying glass.1 Have cracks appeared?2. Does the finish powder or dull in the fold?3. Is the adherence of the finish impaired by the flexing motion?4. Is there stress whitening?




Specification A. Leather must flex 20,000 cycles with no change.B. PVC must flex 50,000 cycles with no change.

Release/Revision

Initial Release: 10/90

Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf




Standard Test Method # 104 - Cleanability (Food/Ink)

Purpose andScope

A. To evaluate the effect of various potential staining agents anddetermine the effect of the cleaning solution on the sample.

Apparatus A. BeakerB. BrushC. Blue or black ink ball point penD. Cleaning Agent

• Tide and distilled water for fabrics and straw,

• Meltonian Leather Lotion for PVC

• Guardsmen Leather Cleaner and Leather Conditioner(more information refer to http://guardsman.com/guardsman/index.jsp)

E. Food Staining Solution (by volume):

1 coffee1 cola1 catsup1/4 sugar1/4 100% alcohol1/8 motor oil

F. Paper TowelsG. Soft Cleaning Brush for fabric.

Procedure Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test

Method #104:

Step ActionA. For Food Staining Solution:

1 Each test specimen shall have the staining solution appliedwith a brush to a 1” X 1” area minimum.

2 Allow the solution to dry.3 Spot clean the surface with the appropriate cleaning agent

mentioned above:a. When cleaning fabric or straw apply the Tide and distilled

water mixture to the stain and brush gently with a soft

brush. Remove excess cleaning solution with a damppaper towel and pat dry.b. When cleaning leather or PVC apply appropriate

cleaning agent with a paper towel or soft cloth and rub.Step Action

B. For Ink (ball point blue/black pen):

1 Draw a 3” line on the surface of the specimen2 Allow the ink mark to set for 10 minutes.3 Repeat steps 3a/b above.




Evaluation A. Evaluate any resulting stain on the sample due to either the foodstaining solution, ink or cleaning agent.

Rate stain as: Slight/Moderate/Severe

Specification A. Food Stain: No StainB. Ink Stain: Slight Stain

Release/Revision

Initial Release: 10/90Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf




Standard Test Method # 109 - Finish Adhesion

Purpose andScope

To check the adhesion of the finish.

Apparatus A. 3M Scotch Magic Tape 3/4” wide #8l0


Step Action1 Draw 10 X 10 square with size of 1mm x 1mm by cutter at

surface.

2 With the tip of the finger, press and rub 1 ½” strip of the tapeonto the surface of the sample making sure one end of thetape is not attached to sample.

3 Hold the free end of the tape at a 90 degree angle to thesurface and detach it with one quick pulling motion

4 Repeat step 2 & 3 , and total three times on same surface

Evaluation Record the approximate percentage of color loss from thesurface.

Specification A. No adhesion loss

Release/Revision


Revision: 04/94, 10/98, 1/14 cf




Standard Test Method # 113 - PU/PVC Adhesion to Backing

Purpose andScope

A. To evaluate the adhesion between PU/PVC and backingmaterial.

Apparatus A. Tensile Tester with speed of 12 inches per minuteB. Clamps with jawsC. 100/1000 lb. load cell


Step Action

1 Cut three samples measuring 2” x 5 ¾”.2 Separate, by hand, one inch of the backing material from the

PU/PVC.3 Clamp the separated 1 inch portion of the backing material

in the lower jaw.4 Clamp the separated 1 inch portion of the PU/PVC in the

upper jaw.

5 Test sample, pulling the backing and PU/PVC apart fromeach other and print out results.

6 Repeat steps 2 – 5 two more times to get an average loadmean of three samples.

Evaluation A. Record the average load mean result for the three samples.

Specification A. 3 pounds minimum.

Release/Revision





Standard Test Method # 114 - Cold Crack Resistance ofPU/PVC

Purpose and

Scope

A. To determine if PVC/PU will crack under cold conditions.

Apparatus A. Cold Box set at minus 23 +/- 5 degrees Celsius and able to fit theMasland Impact Tester inside it

B. Masland Impact TesterC. Stapler


Step Action1 Cut sample to measure 2” x 6”.2 Double the sample over lengthwise with the finished side

out.3 Staple the outside ends.4 Condition the specimen for two hours in the cold box minus

23 +/- 5 degrees Celsius.

5 While working inside the cold box, place the looped(unstapled) side on the Masland Impact Tester Anvil.

6 Raise arm of impact tester to a vertical position and allow it

to fall free on the sample loop.

Evaluation A. Evaluate using the following ratings:No CrackCrackedCracked in two pieces.

Specification A. No Crack

Release/Revision





Standard Test Method # 116 - Tongue Tear Strength ofPU/PVC/Fabric

Purpose and

Scope

To measure the force required to continue or propagate a tearthat was previously cut in the specimen.

Apparatus A. Tensile Testing Machine on load mean setting and tongue tearmode

B. Clamps with jawsC. 1,000 lb. load cellD. Tongue Tear Die (see diagram attached)

Procedure Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test

Method #116:

Step Action1 Using tongue die cut three samples in the warp direction and

cut three samples in the fill direction of the material.2 Place the 3” x 8” specimen in the clamps so that the slit is

centered in the jaw and the ends of the tongues arecompletely held in separate clamps (see attachment).

3 Test the sample and print out results4 Repeat steps 2 – 3 for all samples to get an average load

mean of three warp and three fill directions.

Evaluation A. Record the average load mean of the warp and flit directions foreach sample.

B. Record the warp and fill averages separately.

Specification A. For handbag: 5 pounds minimumB. For small leather goods: 3 pounds minimumC. For lining: 3 pounds minimum

Release/Revision





Diagram 1:Sample

Diagram 2:Tongue Tearing

Test




Standard Test Method # 117 - Blocking of PU/PVC

Purpose andScope

To determine the tendency for PU/PVC to adhere to it whenstored face-to-face and face-to-back, in a stack, under conditions

of high heat and pressure.

Apparatus A. Dry Convection OvenB. Glass PlatesC. 8 Pound Weight


Step Action1 Cut four 1 ½” x 2 ¾” samples.2 Place two samples face-to-face, and two samples face-to-

back between 2 glass plates.3 Place the plates in the oven at 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

Place an 8 pound weight on top of the plates to compressthe samples

4 Leave in oven for six hours.

5 When samples are cool to the touch remove them from theglass plates.

Evaluation A. Evaluate the degree of blocking as follows:No Blocking: No ChangeSlight Blocking: PU/PVC must be peeled to separate but no

change to piece goods.Blocking: PU/PVC can not be separated

Specification A. No Blocking

Release/Revision





Standard Test Method # 118 - Seam Strength

Purpose andScope

To determine the amount of force in pounds that must be appliedto PU/PVC or fabric seams in order to tear the seams.

Apparatus A. Tensile Testing Machine containing grip faces measuring 3” x 1”.Machine should be in load mean setting.

B. Sewing MachineC. Sewing Thread (BT-69 E) minimum. See copy of label below from

thread spool.

Diagram 3:Thread SpoolLabel


Step Action

1 Cut three PU/PVC swatches measuring 3” x 6” in the warpand three swatches measuring 3” x 6” in the fill directions.2 Prepare three sets of seams by placing two samples from

the warp direction with the front sides together, place twosamples from the fill direction with front sides together, placeone sample from the warp and one sample from the filldirection with front sides together.

3 Sew seams airing the 6” side of the samples with a 5/8”seam allowance and stitch density of 8 – 9 stitches per inch(spi).

4 Set the distance between the grip faces at the start of the

test at 2”.5 Center the seam line between the grip faces then close the

grips.6 Run test for each of the three sets of seams.




Evaluation A. Evaluate the following data:1. The load mean for each seam. Identify seams as warp to

warp, fill to fill, and warp to fill.2. The average load mean of all specimens.3 Record if seam failure is caused by PU/PVC failure, sewing

thread failure or PU/PVC slippage.

Specification A. 45 pounds for PVC and fabricB. 30 pounds for lining

Release/Revision

Initial release 10/90;Revised 04/94, 10/97 cf, 10/98 cf




Standard Test Method # 119 - Environmental Cycling

Purpose andScope

To determine the effect of heat, high humidity, and cold on afinished product or any of the products components.

Apparatus A. Wet Environmental Oven set at 100% +/- 5% relative humidityand 135 degrees Fahrenheit

B. Dry Convection Oven set at 160 degrees Fahrenheit +/- 5degrees Fahrenheit

C. Cold Box set at 10 degrees Fahrenheit +/- 5 degrees


Step Action1 Place sample in wet environmental oven for 22 hours.2 Place sample at room temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5

degrees) for 2 hours minimum3 Place sample in dry oven for 22 hours.4 Place sample at room temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5

degrees) for 2 hours minimum.

5 Place sample in cold box for 22 hours.6 Place sample at mom temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5

degrees) for 2 hours minimum.

Evaluation A. Evaluate sample after each individual test cycle (wet oven, dryoven, cold box) and a 2 hour recovery period at roomtemperature.

B. Record any corrosion, blistering, warpage and/or any otherchange in characteristics.

Specification A. No Change

Release/Revision

Initial Release: 10/98 cfRevision: N/A




Standard Test Method # 123 - Accelerated Aging (HighHumidity)

Purpose and

Scope

A. To test hardware or together with Leather substrate, for itsresistance to a hot and humid environment.

Apparatus Wet Environmental Oven set at 135 degrees Fahrenheit and 98%relative humidity.


Step Action1 Place sample into oven in contact with substrate it is

intended to be used with.2 Check hardware and substrate after 24 and 48 hours of

exposure.

Evaluation Compare tested sample to a control after 24 and 48 hours in thewet oven. Record any corrosion, rusting, lacquer burning,blistering and/or any other change in characteristics as failure.

Rate any change as: No Change/Slight Change/Severe Change

Specification A. No ChangeB. Slight Change is considered a borderline situation and can be

interpreted as either pass, fail or waive by KS&C. This dependson the location of the failure, nature of merchandise, and pastfield performance.

Release/

Revision


Revision: 04/94, 10/98, 07/10 cf




Standard Test Method # 124 - Accelerated Aging (Dry Oven)

Purpose andScope

A. To test hardware for its resistance to a dry environment.

Apparatus Gravity Convection oven with a temperature set at 135 degreesFahrenheit.


Step Action1 Place sample into oven in contact with substrate it is

intended to be used with.2 Check hardware after 24 and 48 hours of exposure.

Evaluation Compare tested sample to a control after 24 and 48 hours in thewet oven. Record any corrosion, rusting, lacquer burning,blistering and/or any other change in characteristics as failure.


Specification A. No ChangeB. Slight Change is considered a borderline situation and can beinterpreted as either pass, fail or waive by KS&C. This dependson the location of the failure, nature of merchandise and past fieldexperience.

Release/Revision





Standard Test Method # 125 - Impact Resistance

Purpose andScope

A. To determine the impact resistance of an adhesive or finish.

Apparatus A. Impact platform (5/8” thick steel plate)B. Tape measure or other means to measure drop height of 36”


Step Action1 Drop sample 36 inches onto a steel platform.

2 Repeat step 1 until the point of failure or until the samplehas been dropped 10 times whichever is first.

Evaluation A. Compare tested sample to a control.B. Record any changes to adhesion or finish.C. Record the number of drops.

Specification A. 10 drops with no change

Release/Revision

Initial Release: 10/90Revised 10/98 cf




Standard Test Method # 126 - Tensile Test of Hardware

Purpose andScope

A. To determine the tensile strength of hardware.

Apparatus A. Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation system (aps)setting and tensile mode

B. Clamps with jawsC. 1,000 lb. load cell


Step Action1 Clamp into jaws actual piece of hardware to be tested, ifpossible, or loop cord or straps through hardware (such as adog leash, omega ring, etc), and close cord or straps inupper and lower jaws.

2 Test sample and print out results3 Repeat steps 1 – 2 two more times to get an average peak

load of three samples.

Evaluation A. Record the average peak load result for the three samples.

Specification A. Large dog leashes, large handle holders, large rings are 70pounds minimum

B. Small dog leashes, small handle holders, small rings are 35pounds minimum

C. Key Ring/Chain/ Lanyard Nylon Rope is 25 pounds minimumD. Chainbelts are 30 pounds minimumE. Zipper hooks are 30 pounds minimum




Large Size Large Size

Large Size Large Size

Small Size Small Size

Release/Revision





Standard Test Method # 137 - Nitric Acid Test/LacquerCoating on Brass and Nickel Plated Hardware

Purpose and

Scope

A spot test used to determine the presence of a lacquer coatingon brass and nickel plated hardware.

Apparatus A. 50% by volume nitric acidB. Eye dropper


Step Action

1 Place one drop of 50% nitric acid solution on the sample.2 Allow the drop of solution to remain on the sample for 10

minutes.

3 Remove the drop with a paper towel.4 Visually inspect the area of contact.

Evaluation Visually compare the area of contact to the remainder of the surfacefinish. Note any change in the visual appearance. This indicatesthe absence of a lacquer finish.

Specification A. No Change - which indicates presence of a lacquer finish.

Release/Revision

Initial Release: 11/98 cfRevision: N/A




Standard Test Method # 154 - Handle Integrity Test

Purpose andScope

A. To determine the strength and durability of handbag handlesand straps and associated components.

Apparatus A. Handle Hold Tester, which has a four inch drop and cycles at18 +/- 5 cycles/minute. Speed can be adjusted within thisrange for minimum handbag swinging.

B. Weights (lead shot bags)


Step Action1 Place appropriate weight load inside handbag, as evenly as

possible and set number of cycles on handle hold tester.Guidelines are as follows:

Shoulder Strap HandbagsSmall/Medium 10 lb. load inside handbag for 5,000

cyclesLarge 15 lb. load inside handbag for 5,000

cycles

Bale Handle Handbags

Small/Medium 10 lb. Load inside handbag for 2,500cycles on each handle separately and2,500 cycles both handles together

Large 15 lb. Load inside handbag for 2,500cycles on each handle separately and2,500 cycles both handles together

2 Attach the loaded sample to the hook on the handle holdtester.

3 Start machine.4 Cycle the loaded handbag until the test is complete or until

failure, whichever occurs first.

Evaluation A. Record the amount of weight loaded into the handbag.B. Record the number of cycles completed and whether there was a

failure at this point or not. If there was a failure describe where thefailure occurred (ex- seams, piece goods, hardware, etc.)




Specification A. Shoulder Strap Handbags: 5,000 cycles with no change tohandbag.

B. Bale Handle Handbags: 5,000 cycles with no change to handbag.

Release/Revision Initial Release: 10/90Revision: 04/94, 12/98 cf




Standard Test Method # 158 - Manual Function and Cyclingof Hardware

Purpose andScope

A. To determine the durability and function of hardware with adynamic function that could diminish over time.

B. The performance of the hardware and perception of qualitywill greatly depend on the compatibility of the mating partsand understanding of the end use application

C. Typical components for manual testingDog Clips/Turn Locks/Pad locks/Push locks/Flip locks/

Hinges/ Buckles Etc.

Apparatus A. Mechanical none specifiedB. Manual function of hardware


Step Action1 Only production parts that have a smooth and consistent

function should be cycled. Hand made samples notrepresenting production should not be cycled.

2 Typical function of hardware are locking and unlocking oflocks, sliding dog clips, rotating hinges, buckle mechanismetc.

3 The basic operation of moving parts (i.e. dog clip: Open

Close) should be repeated 5.000 times.

Evaluation A. The evaluation of the hardware function prior to the cycling shouldbe recorded. During cycling, any observation of loose or difficultfunction should be noted.

B. Record the nature of any failures that occurs prior to completion of5.000 cycles, note the number of cycles at which the failureoccurred.

Specification A. Requirement: parts should have good, smooth function throughoutthe entire cycling process. The function should only changeslightly (loosening or tightening) due to wear caused by thecycling.

Release/Revision

Initial Release: N/ARevision: N/A




Standard Test Method # 159 - Resistant to Alcohol

Purpose andScope

A. To evaluate the Alcohol resistance of leather

Apparatus A DropperB. Distill WaterC. 75% AlcoholD. White Cloth


Step Action

1 Use dropper and place 5 drop of testing solution at one spot area 2 Leave it for certain time

3 Use white cloth with wetting of distill water (wet pick up: 95~100%) to rub gently 5 times (back and forth - 2 directioncounts as 1 time)

Evaluation Evaluate any resulting stain on the sampleRate stain as: Slight/Moderate/Severe

Specification No Stain

Release/

RevisionInitial Release: 10/13




Standard Test Method # 160 – Tensile Strength of Card Slot

Purpose andScope

A. To evaluate the performance of card slot of small leather goodand wallet

Apparatus A. Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation system(aps) setting and tensile mode

B. Clamps with jawsC. 1,000 lb. load cell


Step Action1 Clamp into jaws actual piece of small leather good or walletto be tested, set 30 pounds as requirement

2 Start Tensile Testing Machine to apply an increasing load atspeed of 12 inches per minute or 305 mm per minute,pulling in opposite direction until 30 pounds is reached orfailure occurs.




3 Repeat steps 1-2 two more times at all card slot if specimenis applicable.

Evaluation A. After reaching minimal tensile strength requirement, evaluate thetested specimen for any failure of load bearing.

B. If failure occurs before reaching minimal requirement, recordpeak load force reading at point of failure and exact location &nature of the failure (thread, material). Evaluate the testedspecimen for any other failures of the load bearing

Specification No change when 30 pounds

Release/Revision





TRIMS STANDARD TEST METHODS Introduction This section describes the standard test methods used for

trims.

Standard Test Method # 1001 – Button Impact Resistance

Purpose andScope

To evaluate the durability and integrity of the button after beingsubjected to an impact force.

Apparatus A. 3/4" steel ball weighing 1.0 ounce.B. A 20-inch long, hollow metal pipe with 1.0 inch inside

diameter. This pipe has equally spaced slots along itslength. These slots are used to insert a small steel plate,

which keeps the ball from falling from the designatedheight before test. The lowest slot is 1.0" from the bottomof the pipe and each successive slot is cut 1.0" higherthan the previous slot.

C. Steel base where the button is put.

Procedure Comply with the following procedure to completeStandard Test Method #1001:

Step Action1 A minimum of 10 buttons from each lot which are

free of defects, grease, cracks, etc. are selected. Noconditioning of the button is required.

2 The pipe must be mounted to a stand so that thebottom of the pipe is 1.5" above the steel base.

3 Place the button sample on the base with faceupward so that the center of the steel ball is alignedwith the center of the button.

4 Insert the small steel plate through the pre-cut slot inthe pipe at a designated height (4.0") so that the totalfree fall height equals 5.5 inches.

5 Drop the ball into the top opening of the pipe andallow the ball to rest on the inserted steel plate.Retract the steel plate from the pipe so that the steelball free falls onto the button.

6 Repeat 3 through 5 for all buttons.




Evaluation Determine the number of damaged buttons observed fromstep 6 and report this number along with the total number ofbuttons tested, and report that the test was performed with 5.5inch-ounce impact.

If the exact impact energy is to be known that the buttons cansurvive without failure, repeat the entire test from a lower (orhigher) impact height.

The impact energy (inch-ounces) = height of free fall (inches)x weight of ball (ounces).

Example: Height = 5.5 in.Weight = 1.0 oz.Impact Energy = 5.5 in.-oz.

Specification #10 minimum

Release/Revision





Standard Test Method # 1002 – Quality, Appearance &Durability of Plastic Self-Adhesive Size Stickers

Purpose andScope

This test protocol provides the overall procedures to determinethe general qualities of the plastic size stickers being used on

garments and packaging materials.

Apparatus A. FTIR spectrophotometer

B. Analytical heating oven

C. Xenon-arc lamp fading apparatus (Fade-O-Meter orWeather-O-Meter)

Procedure Comply with the following procedure to completeStandard Test Method #1002:

Step Action1 Twenty-five (25) individual round stickers or twelve

(12) long tape stickers (minimum of 12 long stickersper color)

2 As the color effects of the stickers are directly related

to the actual finish and dyestuff used, the actualfabrics or garments which are to be used should besubmitted.

3 Attach the stickers onto the fabrics (or onto thepackaging material which the garments are wrappedin, if applicable) under a constant pressure of 10 lbs.rolling pressure.

4 Repeat step 3 on each of the different availablefabrics.

5 Effects of Heat• Heat the oven until it is stabilized at a

temperature of 120°±2°F.

• Place the prepared samples in the oven for 300hours.




6 Effects of Light Set the Fade-O-Meter or Weather-O-Meter

operating conditions.

After the test apparatus calibration is verified,

place the prepared specimens in the rack ofthe machine.

• Shut off the test machine after 100 AFU ofexposure is reached and remove the specimens

7 Adhesive Analysis

• Using the Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR)analyzer, determine the type of the adhesivebased on its IR spectrum.

Evaluation A. Record any peeling and/or edge curling.

B. Record any defective appearance, including distortion,wrinkling etc.

C. Observe and record the presence of any residual adhesiveon the fabric.

D. Assess and record the presence of any discoloration of the

fabric due to the contact with the stickers.

Specification Round Stickers: #25 minimumLong Stickers: #12 minimum

Release/Revision




Standard Test Method # 1003 - Accelerated Aging (HighHumidity) for metal trims (Copper/ Zinc Alloy) used onLeather and Wool

Purpose andScope

A. To test Juicy Couture apparel metal trims (Copper/ Zinc Alloy) forits resistance to Leather and wool materials in a hot and humidenvironment.

Apparatus a. Wet Environmental Oven set at 135 degrees Fahrenheit and98% relative humidity.

b. 100% non-dyed wool

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard TestMethod #1003.

Step Action1 Wrap a sample with a piece of 100% non-dyed wool.

1 Place the wrapped sample into oven at 135 degreesFahrenheit and 98% relative humidity

2 Check hardware after 24 and 48 hours of exposure.

Evaluation Compare tested sample to a control after 24 and 48 hours in the

wet oven. Record any corrosion, rusting, lacquer burning,blistering and/or any other change in characteristics.


Specification A. No Change

standard test methods

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