Ignition

Switch

wiring

harness

Connect to

the ACC

black wire

Headlamp

assembly

Connect to

the on-off

switch

MC chassis

Single Phase Full

Wave (GROUND

FLOATED) Generator

AC INPUT AC INPUT

DC OUTPUT POSITIVE (+) DC OUTPUT NEGATIVE (-)

IGNITION SWITCH ACC

RECTIFIER REGULATOR SPECIFICATION

Max. Input Current: 10A @25C

Max. Output Current: 6A @25C

Charging Current: 0.210.5A

Lighting Voltage: 14 0.5V

Charging Voltage: 14.6 0.3V

Operating Temp.: -20C to 60 C

This 5-Pin 1-Phase Full Wave R/R is used by the

following brands and models of Motorcycle: Kawasaki

HDIII-2005, Suzuki Mola125, Suzuki GS125 & Yamaha YBR125

NEGATIVE (-)

POSITIVE (+)

STATOR MOD: FLOATING GROUND CONVERSION OF HONDA

XRM110 / WAVE100 / ALPHA / BRAVO

Solder here

Cut here

DO NOT TOUCH.

As is where is

(From pulser to

CDI)

FIGURE 1: A replacement stator

STATOR MOD: FLOATING GROUND CONVERSION OF A HONDA XRM110/WAVE100/ALPHA/BRAVO

FOR A MORE EFFICIENT DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Materials and tools needed:

60Watts (P168.00) to 100Watts (P185.00) soldering iron

Lifan LF110 (P685.00) or LF150 (P900.00) Voltage Regulator or Trail Tech 70Watts Rectifier Regulator / Tympanium (P2600 from ebay.ph) or Kawaski HDIII/Suzuki Mola125/Suzuki GS125/Yamaha YBR125G Rectifier Regulator (P500.00 for non-genuine)

A replacement or non-genuine stator if u desire to preserve your stock genuine stator (P550)

5-inch 18AWG yellow automotive wire used as an extension wire for floated ground lighting/charging coil (P11.00/meter)

meter 18AWG black wire used as an extension wire from the 5-way rectifier regulator male plug to the ingnition switch ACC (P11.00/meter)

Wire cutter

Wire splicer

Digital Multitester

Step 1. A) Disconnect your battery. B) Remove the shifter. C) Locate the oil drain plug on the underside of the bike and place a catch basin below. Remove the drain plug to release the oil. (For 125cc models only) D) Open the cover of the stator to expose its wiring.

Step 2. A) Disconnect all wires of the stator at the connector plugs. B) Pay attention to the pulser and avoid yanking its wires. C) Use liquid soap to wash away excess oil. D) Clean and wipe the whole assembly dry.

Legend: Point A AC output; center-tap Point B Lighting coil ground lead; end coil Point C Source coil ground lead Point D AC output; Lighting start coil Point E Source coil output

FIGURE 2: Labeled Points

Step 3. A) Refer to Figure 2. Let us focus first on the lighting/charging coil section. Pay attention

only to the white (D) and yellow (A) wires. Disregard all other wire colors. B) The start of the coil can be located to where the white wire (D) is soldered. C) Validate the start of the coil by using a digital multitester. Set its knob on the x2M test position. Place one of its probe to where the white wire is soldered and the other probe to the metal body of the stator. If the reading shows a larger resistance compared to the yellow wire, then it is confirmed that the white wire is the start of the winding. But if the digital multitester shows a smaller resistance compared to the yellow wire, then it indicates the center-tap of the stator windings. However, as a standard color code to most of the manufacturers, yellow is assigned to the center-tap connection of the stator windings. D) Desolder the yellow wire (A) to disconnect from the center-tap.

POINT A: Desolder yellow wire and do not reconnect to the magnet wire. Leave the magnet wire as-is.

E) The end coil (or ground lead B) can be located near the ignition coils ground lead. Desolder B magnet wire from the ground lug to float from the stator body.

POINT B: Desolder the magnet wire and do not reconnect to the ground lug.

Desolder here and do not

reconnect again.

YELLOW

EXTENSION

WIRE

F) Prepare your 5-inch 18AWG YELLOW EXTENSION WIRE and solder it to the FLOATED end coil magnet wire (B). Use a shrink tube or any high temperature insulation tube (preferably asbestos type) to seal the exposed soldered joint. DO NOT SOLDER IT BACK TO THE GROUND LUG (STATOR BODY). G) Arrange the yellow extension wire in such a manner of an alternating loop to the poles until it reaches the desoldered center-tap yellow wire (A). Solder B to A and keep it floated. DO NOT SOLDER IT BACK TO ITS ORIGINAL POSITION.

H) Cut any excess length of the extension wire and seal the soldered joint again with a shrink tube. I) Now, you have completed the floating ground on the lighting/charging coils section.

Step 4. A) The INPUT leads/terminal wires of the Lifan LF110 or LF150 R/R are the PINK and YELLOW wires. For the Trail Tech 70Watts R/R are the two YELLOW wires. B) The orientation of the color or polarization, when connected to the YELLOW and WHITE wires of the generator, is NOT IMPORTANT. It can be interchanged or swapped accordingly since Alternating Currents have no positive and negative polarities. C) The OUTPUT leads/terminal wires of the Lifan brands are the RED wire for positive (+) and GREEN wire for negative (-). For Trail Tech brands, BLACK wire is used instead of green. D) RED wire will be connected to the positive terminal of the battery E) The GREEN/BLACK wire to the negative terminal of the battery and should be mounted to the bikes chassis. Failure to do so will result in abnormalities and power loss to most electrical devices and lightings.

Step 5. A) Reassemble the whole stator to its original position and location.

B) Carefully close the cover. Keep an eye on the pulser. Make sure it will not hit the flywheel during operation after being attached to its proper place. C) Refill the autolube with the oil collected earlier in the process or if desired, with a fresh and new motor oil. D) Return the shifter to its original position and location.

Step 6. A) Test your new stator floating ground modification using the kick starter and not the

electric starter for safety reasons. B) If possible, reduce the ampere rating of the fuse to 5A located between the positive battery terminal and the red wire of the R/R. C) If your bike successfully roars into life, rev it up gently while monitoring the output current and voltage of the R/R and CDI using a digital multitester. Voltage reading across the fully charged battery must be 13.8V to 14.4V and a current reading of 4.8A to 6.2A. D) Carefully touch the R/R and CDI one at a time for every increase in rpm to monitor temperature. Normally, the temperature of R/R increases a little bit hot without a load. It turns really hot, comparably less hot than that of electric irons, when a load is connected, i.e., a 30Watts HID lamp. This is a normal characteristic of the R/R to compensate the loss of power.